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iii 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OE  CALIEORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


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//^ 


O'^/r 


SKETCHES 


OF   THE 


LIFE  AND  PUBLIC  SERVICES 


OF 


FREDERICK  SMYTH 


OF 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


compiled  by 
Ben  :   Perlev  Poore  and  F.  B.  Eaton. 


MANX^HESTER,   X.   H. : 

JOHN      I!  .      CLARKE,      PRINTER 

i88;. 


LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ANCESTRY   AND    EARLY   LIFE. 

Frederick  Smyth  came  of  that  sturdy  New  Hampshire 
pioneer  stock  which  was  noted  for  its  strength,  its  vigor, 
its  industry,  its  intelligence,  and  its  piety.  They  met 
the  dangers  of  war  and  of  the  wilderness  bravely,  and 
they  were  champions  of  Liberty,  who  could  grasp  an 
idea,  who  could  govern  their  lives  by  a  conviction,  and 
who  could  die  for  a  faith.  The  invigorating  breezes 
from  the  White  Hills  imbrowned  their  industrious  fea- 
tures, while  they  imparted  health  and  animation  to  their 
stalwart  frames.  As  the  stern  countenance  of  the  "  Old 
Man  of  the  Mountains"  looks  forth  from  the  granite 
mountain-side,  immovable  among  the  changing  seasons 
and  the  sweep  of  years,  so  the  early  settlers  of  New 
Hampshire  gave  a  glorious  impress  to  the  early  New 
England  character,  not  only  educating  leaders  for  their 
own  Commonwealth,  but  for  the  country.  The  names 
of  the  New  Hampshire  delegates  stand  next  to  that  of 
John  Hancock  on  the  Declaration  of  Independence. 

The  great-grandfather  of  the  subject  of  this  sketch, 
Chase  Smyth,  came  to  Candia,  N.  H.,  from  Brentwood, 
N.  H.,  about  1771.  He  had  a  son,  Joseph  Chase,  who 
was  born  Jan.  17,  1759,  and  who  married,  June  5,  1778, 
Elizabeth  Gilnian,  who  was  born  Sept.  5,  175G,  and  who 
was  related  to  John  Taylor  Gihnan,  afterwards  governor 

5305G0 


4  LIFE  OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

of  the  State.  Establishing  a  homestead,  they  had  six 
children,  the  third  of  whom,  Stephen,  was  born  July  6, 
1785,  and  was  married,  Dec.  26,  1809,  to  Dolly  liowe. 
Her  father,  Isaiah  Rowe,  was  a  veteran  of  the  old 
French  and  Revolutionary  wars,  who  treasured,  among 
other  trophies  of  the  siege  of  Cape  Breton,  a  camp-chest 
and  a  powder-horn.  Before  the  breaking  out  of  the 
Revolutionary  war,  he  was  a  signer  of  the  "  Association 
Bill,"  and  in  1775  he  was  a  member  of  the  "  Committee 
of  Safety."  He  was  a  man  of  good  financial  standing, 
as  is  shown  by  his  tax  for  1778,  which  was  £3  9.S'.  9d., 
—  the  fourth  tax  in  amount  in  the  town  of  Candia. 

Stephen  settled  on  Lot  No.  25  in  the  original  division 
of  the  town  of  Candia,  a  short  distance  northwest  from 
the  homestead,  which  was  on  Lot  No.  49.  Here  there 
were  born  to  him  and  his  wife  five  children,  named 
successively  Gilman  Chase,  Sarah,  Frederick,  Sophia, 
and  Abraham  Calvin.  Frederick  was  born  March  9, 
1819,  in  a  house  now  owned  by  Jonathan  Martin,  Esq. 
The  farm  on  which  the  future  governor  was  reared 
consisted  of  about  fifty  acres  of  land,  not  devoted  to  the 
cultivation  of  any  one  crop,  but  expected  to  supply  the 
wants  of  its  owner's  family  so  far  as  food  and  clothing 
were  concerned.  Around  the  house,  wliich  was  a  com- 
fortable one-story  edifice  with  a  huge  chimney,  were 
cleared  fields  of  a  rough  but  retentive  soil,  and  beyond, 
extending  up  the  side  of  Hall's  Mountain,  were  pastures 
for  cattle  and  sheep. 

The  hardy  tillers  of  the  rock-bound  soil  of  New  Hamp- 
shire produced,  in  those  days,  with  the  aid  of  their  wives, 
daughters,  and  sons,  almost  every  article  eaten  in  or 
worn  by  the  family,  with  a  surplus  of  pork,  poultry,  wool, 
butter,  and  cheese,  whicli  was  bartered  for  tlie  luxuries 
of  life.  There  was  but  little  money  —  gold  or  silver  or 
paper  —  in  circulation,  and  what  the  farmers  could  not 


Hllil'lllM.ACK   (»K  (loV.    S.MVni,    IN    ('.VNIHA.    IST.I 


ANCESTRY   AND    EARLY   LIFE.  5 

obtain  by  labor  they  went  without.  While  the  plow,  the 
hoe,  and  the  rake  were  kept  busy  in  the  fields,  the  whirl 
of  the  spinning-wheel,  the  clang  of  the  loom,  and  the 
splash  of  the  churn-dasher,  was  heard  within  doors.  The 
town  was  generally  considered  healthy,  and  a  large  ma- 
jority of  the  people  were  long-lived. 

Many  farmers  in  Candia  and  the  surrounding  towns 
then  eked  out  the  scant  returns  of  their  acres  by  making 
a  few  barrels,  sold  on  the  seaboard  for  packing  fish.  In 
later  years,  the  shoe  business  succeeded  to  this  pursuit. 
In  the  village  near  the  center  of  the  town  there  were  two 
or  three  stores,  as  many  blacksmiths'  shops,  with  wheel- 
wrights, joiners,  shoemakers,  and  a  cabinet-maker.  Each 
one  of  these  mechanics  was  able,  Avithout  the  aid  of 
journeymen,  to  accomplish  all  the  work  which  was  given 
him,  and  the  choice  of  occupation  in  which  a  young  man 
might  find  employment  was  limited.  The  life  of  a  far- 
mer's son  thus  bounded  was  usualh'  one  of  liard  work, 
enlivened  by  brief  terms  of  schooling  and  few  amuse- 
ments, and  varied  by  ingenious  expedients  for  raising 
pocket-money,  for  which,  fortunately,  there  was  but  little 
use. 

Chestnuts  were  a  prominent  source  of  income  to  the 
boys,  who  were  permitted  to  gather  those  whicli  grew 
on  the  trees  in  the  woods,  but  who  Avere  warned  off  as 
trespassers  when  they  attempted  to  gather  nuts  beneath 
trees  growing  in  enclosures.  One  of  these,  a  splendid 
specimen,  grev>'  in  a  field  belonging  to  "  Uncle  Jim," 
and  its  laden  branches  hung  over  the  wall  into  his  rela- 
tive's })asture.  One  autumnal  morning  it  so  happened 
that  the  "  folks  "'  were  called  away  from  home,  leaving 
Frederick  and  an  older  brother;  and  the  latter  proposed 
that  they  should  go  and  gather  some  chestnuts  from 
Uncle  Jim's  tree.  The  proposition  was  accepted,  and  the 
brothers  soon  scaled  tho  wall,  the  older  one  climbing  up 


6  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

into  the  tree  to  tlirash  down  tlie  nuts  with  a  pole,  while 
young  Frederick,  then  about  six  years  of  age,  industri- 
ously picked  up  the  fallen  nuts  into  a  tin  pail. 

While  thus  engaged,  Frederick  saw  Uncle  Jim  rapidly 
approaching,  and  with  a  warning  cry  he  hurried  over  the 
wall  and  took  to  his  heels,  followed  by  his  older  brother. 
They  soon  reached  a  place  of  safety,  but  just  as  they 
^^■^ere  congratulating  themselves,  they  missed  their  tin  pail. 
Justice  among  brothers  is  usually  sunmiary  at  such  times, 
and  to  escape  a  "  licking,"  Frederick  went  back  to  the 
chestnut  tree  for  the  pail.  Alas  for  the  young  marauder ! 
Uncle  Jim  liad  coniiscated  it  with  its  contents  ;  and  when 
he  returned  to  his  brother  without  it,  they  held  a  council 
of  war  as  to  the  best  way  of  obtaining  it  before  "  the 
folks  •'  returned,  and  thus  avoiding  trouble, 

Frederick  was  finally  ordered  by  his  brother  to  go  and 
ask  for  the  pail,  and  to  say,  if  asked  how  the  pail  came 
under  the  chestnut  tree,  that  he  "  guessed  a  missionary 
left  it  I  "  Away  went  master  Frederick,  and  he  soon  said 
Avith  a  beating  heart,  but  with  as  much  composure  as  he 
could  manifest :  "  Uncle  Jim,  have  you  got  our  tin  pail  ?  " 
The  urbane  relative  thus  addressed  laughed,  and  replied 
that  he  had  found  a  tin  pail  under  his  chestnut  tree,  and 
should  like  to  know  how  it  got  there.  The  prompt 
response,  "  I  guess  a  missionary  left  it,"  made  in  obedi- 
ence to  instructions,  was  considered  as  so  very  original 
and  smart,  that  the  oft'ense  was  condoned,  and  the  pail 
was  surrendered.  Uncle  Jim  used  to  repeat  the  story, 
however,  every  time  that  he  came  over  to  the  boys' home, 
adding  as  a  conclusion  :  "  And  I  told  him  that  if  he  ever 
see  a  missionary  with  v.  tin  pail  in  his  hand  again,  tell  liim 
to  keep  away  from  my  chestnut  tree."  The  story  was 
repeated  so  often,  that  young  Frederick  got  dreadfully 
sick  of  his  exploit. 


TnjrT7|jli|^^ 


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f    ill',,.  / 


ANCESTRY   AND   EARLY   LIFE.  7 

Another  incident  of  the  lad's  early  life  will  illustrate 
the  prevalent  thrift  and  industry  of  those  days.  The 
neighboring  farmers  used  to  gather  the  smaller  branches 
of  the  trees  felled  for  timber  or  firewood,  and  from  them 
make  charcoal  for  the  blacksmiths,  who  paid  four  cents  a 
bushel  for  it.  Frederick,  seeing  that  he  could  thus  real- 
ize a  little  cash,  picked  up  the  waste  wood  about  the  pas- 
tures, and  with  it  built  a  coal  pit,  which  he  fired  and 
watched  for  a  week,  when  he  took  from  it  four  bushels  of 
charcoal,  for  which  he  received  the  sum  of  sixteen  cents ! 
This  the  neighbors  regarded  as  indicating  industry  and 
enterprise ;  neither  is  it  impossible  that  some  vague  idea 
of  a  "  corner  "  in  cotton  entered  his  mind  about  this 
time,  as  he  obtained  some  seed  and  raised  one  cotton 
plant,  which  grew  well  until  the  frosts  spoiled  his  hope  of 
a  crop. 

In  1827,  the  fother  of  Frederick  purchased  the  farm  and 
house  afterwards  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Abraham  Wheeler, 
a  few  rods  east  from  the  residence  of  John  Lane,  Esq., 
and  removed  there  with  his  family.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  hardships  incident  to  the  life  of  a  Xew  Hamp- 
shire farmer's  boy,  young  Frederick  accepted  them  with- 
out a  murmur.  As  an  instance  of  his  industry,  it  is  told 
that  when  he  was  a  slender  lad,  he  yoked  up  the  cattle 
during  his  father's  absence  from  home,  and  cleared  the 
rock-heaps  from  a  mowing  field,  working  so  steadily  that 
he  brought  on  severe  headaches,  and  had  to  take  a  week's 
time  to  finish  the  job  in.  He  had  a  liabit,  which  has  fol- 
lowed him  through  life,  of  carefully  reading  the  few  agri- 
cultural papers  which  found  their  way  into  Candia,  with 
the  agricultural  scraps  in  the  political  and  religious  jour- 
nals of  the  vicinity.  On  one  occasion,  seeing  in  the 
columns  of  the  Xew  Hampshire  OV)server  directions  for 
raising  onions,  he  planted  a  bed  with  great  success,  while 


8  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

his  neighbors  were  only  able  to  raise  scullions  !  Another 
instance  of  this  early  observation  is  remembered  in  a  bit 
of  civ^l  engineering,  b}-  M^hich  the  water  from  a  brook 
was  so  conducted  around  a  hillside  as  to  appear  almost 
like  running  uphill.  The  experiment  resulted  in  an  in- 
creased crop  of  grass,  and  it  is  questionable  if  any  of  his 
later  successes  in  life  afforded  him  greater  satisfaction. 


CHAPTER    II. 

FIRST    STEPS    IN   A    PROSPEROUS    CAREER. 

There  was  not  wanting  about  the  good  old  town  of 
Candia  a  certain  intellectual  atmosphere,  despite  the 
rough  soil  and  hard-working  habits  of  its  people.  It  is 
true  that  the  common  schools  did  not  average  above  six 
months  in  duration  each  year,  but  they  were  often  full  of 
eager  students,  who  seized  with  a  healthy  and  vigorous 
appetite  on  the  instruction  given  them,  and  made  the  best 
of  small  opportunities.  There  was  usually  at  the  center 
of  the  town  a  "  private  "  or  "high  "  school  three  months 
each  autumn  for  those  who  had  money  to  pay  the  small 
tuition  fee,  a  sum  which  varied  inversely  according  to  the 
attendance.  The  more  pupils,  the  smaller  fee.  There 
were  also  meetings  for  discussion,  and  the  production  of 
such  literary  eftbrts  as  the  more  ambitious  young  people 
might  produce.  In  the  discussions,  young  and  old  took 
part  with  mutual  advantage.  The  few  college  students 
on  their  vacations  home  were  looked  u})on  with  not  a 
little  admiration  and  possiV)ly  envy.  This  condition  of 
affairs  had  its  influence  upon  Frederick,  who  was  early 
impressed  with  a  desire  for  better  schooling  than  his 
limited  time  and  means  could  give,  and  he  obtained  the 
consent  of  his  father,  with  the  view  of  earning  money  for 
such  a  purpose,  to  go  from  home,  to  the  then  infant  city 
of  Lowell,  where  remunerative  employment  might  l)e 
found.  Before  leaving,  he  took  the  precaution  to  obtain 
from  his  pastor,  the  Rev.  C.  P.  Russell,  a  certiticate  of 
good  moral  character.  It  was  cheerfully  given,  and  with 
it  good  advice,  which  was  afterwards  remembered   aiul 


10  LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

•followed.  Frederick  was  at  that  time  about  sixteen  years 
of  age,  but  his  dark  eyes  sparkled  with  energy,  inter- 
mixed with  an  expression  of  shyness  and  sagacity,  as  he 
went  boldly  forth  into  the  wide,  wide  world,  with  a  firm 
determination  to  conquer  success,  and  to  merit  it. 

On  his  arrival  at  Lowell,  he  readily  obtained  employ- 
ment in  the  Middlesex  Mills,  at  eight  dollars  per  month ; 
but  the  confinement  and  the  heated  atmosphere  of  the 
room  was  unendurable  for  the  lad  who  had  passed  the 
greater  portion  of  his  life  out-of-doors,  in  the  clear  pure 
air  of  his  favorite  State.  Leaving  the  Middlesex  Mills, 
he  sought  employment  at  the  hotel  known  as  the  Merri- 
mack House,  perhaps  inspired  by  the  blood  of  his  English 
ancestor,  who  was  the  landlord  of  the  Black  Horse 
Tavern  in  Brentwood.  His  certificate  of  moral  character 
did  him  good  service,  for,  as  it  happened,  Mr.  Murdock, 
the  Lowell  landlord,  once  kept  a  boarding-house  in  Cam- 
bridge, where  one  of  his  boarders  was  Mr.  Russell.  So 
our  young  man  took  the  place  of  an  assistant  porter,  at 
four  dollars  per  month  and  board.  The  salarj'  of  porter 
number  one  was  derived,  like  that  of  Mr.  Sam  Weller, 
from  blacking  boots ;  and  by  special  agreement  the  new- 
comer was  to  have  all  he  could  make  after  the  head 
porter  had  gone  to  bed,  consequently  he  sat  up  nearly  all 
night.  He  probably  found  this  kind  of  work  not  alto- 
gether to  be  desired  as  a  steady  thing,  and  having  earned 
enough  to  pay  for  a  suit  of  clothes,  replacing  his  home- 
spun, he  returned  liome  and  essayed  a  new  undertaking. 

Returning  to  Candia,  Frederick  was  warmly  welcomed 
at  the  family  homestead  and  l.)y  his  numerous  friends,  but 
he  did  not  fancy  resuming  his  scantily  remunerated  farm 
toil.  His  only  eajtital  and  resources  were  hope,  energy, 
and  faith  in  himself,  but  he  determined  to  test  the  qual- 
ities of  his  ri}>ening  manhood  and  to  endeavor  to  make 
his  wav  in  the  world. 


SCHOOL-TEACHING.  11 

The  first  avocation  that  presented  itself  to  the  young 
man  was  school-teaching,  he  having  heard  of  a  situation 
in  the  neighboring  town  of  Auburn.  His  pastor,  who  by 
the  way  was  a  gentleman  of  fine  culture  and  courteous 
manners,  acceded  to  his  request  that  he  might  be  ex- 
amined in  those  rudimentary  branches  then  taught  in  the 
common  schools  of  jSTew  Hampshire,  and  gave  him  a  very 
complimentary  certificate  of  capability.  Armed  with 
this,  the  young  man  made  his  way  to  Auburn,  and  called 
on  Mr.  Pike  Chase,  the  "  prudential  "  committee-man  of 
the  district  in  which  a  teacher  was  needed.  Mr.  C.  was 
pleased  with  his  appearance,  and  on  the  strength  of  the 
certificate  given  by  Mr.  Russell,  engaged  him  at  once, 
not  waiting  for  the  legal  document  from  the  superin- 
tending school  committee.  When  he  returned  home  tri- 
umphant, lie  not  having  told  any  one  what  he  was  doing, 
his  father  received  the  news  with  characteristic  misgiving, 
and  expressed  a  fear  that  he  would  never  succeed.  He 
took  his  seat  at  the  teacher's  desk  at  the  age  of  eighteen, 
but  not  without  ability  and  a  determination  to  succeed. 
After  a  trial  week,  he  passed  a  successful  examination  by 
the  chairman  of  the  town's  school  committee,  Thomas  J. 
Melvin,  Es(|.,  and  his  zeal  and  perseverance  soon  estab- 
lished his  reputation  as  a  successful  teacher,  enabling  him 
to  tini>sli  his  term  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned. 

Learning  that  there  was  a  vacancy  in  one  of  the  school 
districts  of  Ilooksett,  caused  l)v  the  discharge  of  a  college 
graduate  for  some  reason,  he  applied  for  the  position.  It 
was  given  to  him,  and  he  conducted  the  school  with  such 
success  that  the  regular  term  was  supplemented  with  a 
"  private  school,"  which  he  was  invited  to  teach,  and  he 
was  engaged  in  advance  for  the  following  whiter.  His 
relations  with  his  pupils  and  their  parents  were  always 
cordial  and  friendly,  although  he  was  an  efiective  discip- 
linarian.    Prompt   and    methodical   himself,  he    exacted 


12  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

an  unremitting  exercise  of  the  like  qualities  in  his  pupils. 
Much  has  been  eloquently  said  and  graphically  written 
about  the  district  schoolhouses  of  rural  Xew  England ; 
yet,  in  admiring  distinguished  talents  or  a  noble  charac- 
ter, how  rarely  do  we  ever  think  of  the  teacher,  whose 
wise  care  fostered  the  one  and  formed  the  other.  How 
rarely,  in  admiring  the  golden  harvest,  do  we  remember 
the  patient  labor  that  prepared  the  soil  and  sowed  the 
seed. 

About  the  year  1838,  Frederick  Fitts,  who  was  carry- 
ing on  the  business  which  had  been  started  by  his  father, 
"  Master  "  Moses  Fitts,  at  a  country  store  in  Candia,  died. 
Master  Fitts  was  then  living,  but  he  was  a  sufferer  from 
rheumatism,  and  the  business  went  into  the  hands  of 
Doctor  Wheat,  a  brother-in-law  of  the  deceased  merchant. 
He  placed  it  in  charge  of  his  son  Thomas  and  young 
Smyth,  who  engaged  in  trade  under  the  name  of  Wlieat 
&  Smyth.  Connected  with  the  store  was  a  manufactory 
of  potash,  and  a  horse-power  machine  for  ironing  and 
pressing  palmleaf  hats.  The  machine  was  rather  rough 
at  times  on  hat  brims,  unless  managed  by  skillful  hands. 
For  a  short  time  the  new  firm,  being  popular  young  men 
in  town,  made  things  lively  about  the  old  stand,  but  the 
business  did  not  prove  so  profitable  as  to  warrant  its  con- 
tinuance. 

The  young  traders  were  consoled  by  the  opportunity 
afforded  tliem  to  study  for  a  short  time  at  Phillips  Acad- 
emy in  Andover,  English  department.  This  ancient  seat 
of  learning  was  founded  l)y  members  of  the  wealthy  and 
respectable  Phillips  family  about  the  time  of  the  Revolu- 
tion, to  instruct  youth,  "not  only  in  Englisli  and  Latin 
grammar,  writing,  arithmetic,  and  those  sciences  wherein 
they  are  commonly  taught,  l)ut  more  especially  to  learn 
them  the  great  end  and  real  business  of  living.*'  The 
preceptor  of  the   English   school   at  that   time  was  Dr. 


PHILLIPS    ANDOVER   ACADEMY.  13 

Coleman,  a  gentleman  with  the  courteous  manners  of 
the  old  school,  an  efficient  instructor,  and  a  strict 
disciplinarian,  — 

"Supreme  he  sits,  —  before  the  awful  frown 
That  bends  his  brows,  the  boldest  eye  goes  down." 

While  at  Andover,  the  expense  of  boarding  in  the 
commons  was  but  seventy-five  cents  a  week,  and  Fred- 
erick earned  his  tuition  fees  by  working  in  the  garden 
of  Mr.  William  Pierce,  a  worthy  bookseller  of  that  town, 
at  live  cents  an  hour.  An  education  thus  acquired  is 
appreciated,  and  Frederick  made  good  progress,  except 
in  declamation.  On  his  first  and  also  his  last  appearance 
on  the  academical  stage,  he  broke  down.  The  good 
old  preceptor  tried  to  cheer  him  with  augury  of  future 
success,  telling  him  that  the  nervous  organization  which 
was  the  cause  of  his  failure,  would  prove  to  be  a  prime 
element  in  good  speaking;  but  he  ever  after  adhered 
to  the  conviction  that  nature  had  not  intended  him  for 
an  orator. 

At  the  end  of  their  first  term  at  Andover,  our  two 
young  friends  found  their  scanty  means  exhausted,  and 
were  reluctantly  compelled  to  return  to  their  homes  in 
Gandia.  It  may  be  said  that  the  father  of  Frederick, 
while  believing  in  good  town  schools,  had  no  very 
clear  idea  of  the  need  of  book  knowledge,  and  he  did 
not  feel  called  on  to  send  his  children  away  to  receive 
academical  educations. 

Frederick,  anxious  to  obtain  employment  by  which  he 
could  return  to  Andover,  started  on  foot  for  Manchester, 
a  manufacturing  city  just  springing  into  existence  at  the 
Amoskcag  falls  of  the  Merrimack  river.  The  present 
road  from  Candia  through  Auljuru  had  not  then  been 
made,  so  he  trudged  on  the  Ilooksett  road,  a  good  ten- 
mile  tramp.    For  some  miles  before  reaching  Manchester 


14  LIFE  OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

on  this  road,  the  back-set  of  the  dam  at  the  falls  is 
observable,  and  the  Merrimack  is  broad  and  beautiful. 
Not  a  ripple  ruffles  its  surface,  and  its  banks  are  broad, 
rich  intervale  lands,  or  high  wooded  bluffs,  while  the 
swells  rolling  back  from  the  river  are  decked  with 
orchards,  cultivated  fields,  and  comfortable  farmhouses. 

It  is  related  that  when  a  poor  English  lad,  named 
Whittington,  was  walking  into  London  in  quest  of 
fortune,  the  church  bells  began  to  ring,  and  he  fancied 
that  their  welcome  peal  was,  "  Welcome,  Sir  Richard 
Whittington,  Lord  Mayor  of  London."  l^o  such  ambi- 
tious thoughts  crossed  the  brain  of  Frederick,  as  he 
wearily  entered  the  sandy  way  then  known  as  Elm  street, 
and  he  never  dreamed  that  before  many  years  had  passed 
away,  he  would  be  the  owner  of  valuable  buildings 
fronting  on  this  thoroughfare,  and  mayor  of  Manchester. 
Neither  would  it  have  entered  his  mind,  as  he  passed 
the  sandy  bluff  near  the  falls,  that  he  should  erect  there 
one  of  the  finest  residences  in  the  State,  on  the  spot 
now  called  "  The  Willows,"  with  its  broad  expanse  of 
lawn  and  park. 


CHAPTER    III. 

LOCATION    IN    A    NEW    HOME,    AND    MARRIAGE. 

If  the  founders  of  national  capitals  in  the  Old  "World 
were  entitled  to  regard  as  public  benefactors,  how  much 
greater  is  the  title  of  distinction  to  those  who  not  only 
laid  the  foundations  of  the  manufacturing  cities  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Merrimack,  but  provided  them  with  industries 
which  not  only  attracted  population,  but  ensured  a  gener- 
ous support  to  all  new-comers.  Prominent  among  these 
cities,  which  sprang  into  existence  like  the  fabled  jDalace 
of  Aladdin,  was  Manchester,  at  the  great  falls  of  the 
Amoskeag,  which  was  originally  known  as  Derryfield,  as 
it  was  an  appendage  to  the  toAvn  of  Londonderry,  The 
location  had  long  been  despoiled  of  its  timber,  and  its 
gravelly  knolls  were  interspersed  with  fields  of  a  sterile 
soil,  over  which  the  sand  was  driven  about  as  the  light 
snow  of  winter  under  a  northwestern  wind. 

The  magnificent  water-power  at  the  Amoskeag  Falls 
had  attracted  the  attention  of  capitalists  in  "  the  good  old 
colony  days,  when  we  lived  under  the  king";  and,  soon 
after  the  establishment  of  the  United  States  Government, 
Col.  Samuel  Blodget  raised  money  l)y  a  lottery  for  the 
construction  of  a  canal  around  the  falls,  for  navigation, 
and  to  furnish  hydraulic  power.  Several  factories  and 
mills  were  built  at  different  times,  but  it  was  not  until 
1831  that  the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Company  was 
incorporated.  Controlling  the  water-power,  it  leased 
privileges  to  other  corporations,  and  it  pui'chased  a  large 
tract  of  land,  which  was  laid  out  as  a  city.  The  lots  were 
sold  at  public  aution  to  those  who  were  disposed  to  erect 


16  LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

houses  or  stores,  and  there  were  reservations  for  churches, 
schoolhoiises,  and  the  public  parks.  The  name  of  Derrj- 
iield  was  changed  to  Manchester,  at  the  suggestion  of 
Major  Stark,  a  son  of  the  gallant  old  General  Stark,  whose 
homestead  overlooked  the  falls. 

When  Frederick  visited  Manchester,  it  had  3,325 
inhabitants,  of  which  over  twenty-five  hundred  had  re- 
moved there  within  the  preceding  two  years.  The  old 
residents  did  not  fancy  the  new-comers  ;  and  at  a  town- 
meeting.  Justice  John  Stark  went  into  the  moderator's 
desk,  Avhen  he  thus  addressed  the  assembled  citizens  :  — 

"  Who  are  ye,  that  are  here  to  act,  and  to  tread  upon 
us  in  this  manner  ?  I  '11  tell  ye  who  you  are  I  — you  're  a 
set  of  interlopers  come  here  to  get  a  living  upon  a  sand- 
bank, and  a  d — d  poor  living  you  will  get,  let  me  tell 
ye :  " 

There  were  at  that  time  Init  two  stores  on  Elm  street, 
the  principal  thoroughfare,  —  one  occupied  by  Kidder  & 
Co.,  and  the  other  by  George  Porter,  Esq.  At  the  latter, 
a  store  of  general  merchandise,  groceries,  dry  goods, 
hardware,  cooking  utensils,  and  all  the  various  knick- 
knacks  of  a  usual  country  store,  men  were  sitting  on  the 
steps.  The  young  stranger  approached,  asked  the  pro- 
prietor if  he  wanted  help,  and  after  some  conversation, 
questions  as  to  education,  references  for  character,  etc, 
which  seem  to  have  l>een  satisfactorily  answered,  he  was 
told  to  call  again  the  next  daij.  As  lie  had  neither  ac- 
quaintances in  town  nor  friends,  he  walked  home  that 
night,  ten  miles,  and  walked  back  again  on  the  mori'ow. 
After  one  week's  trial,  he  was  engaged  for  a  year  at  the 
salary  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  dollars  and  liis 
board.  The  place  called  for  plenty  of  hard  work,  but  was 
not  without  its  advantages.  It  laid  the  foundation  for  an 
acquaintance  with  men,  the  workingmen,  the  real  bone 
and  sinew  (jf  tlie  u'rowincr  vilace,  which    our  vounii;  man 


LOCATION    IN    A    NEW    HOME,    AND    MARRIAGE.  17 

was  not  slow  to  profit  by,  and  M'hicli  was  of  great  use  to 
him  in  after  years. 

At  the  end  of  his  year's  service,  the  question  again 
arose  as  to  the  "  ways  and  means  "  for  attending  school. 
Mr.  Porter,  his  employer,  thinking  he  saw  in  him  the 
elements  of  a  successful  merchant,  advised  him  not  to 
think  of  a  college  education,  and  to  give  force  to  his  ad- 
vice, alluded  to  the  case  of  himself  and  his  brother.  His 
brother,  he  said,  a  lawyer  with  a  liberal  education  and 
four  or  five  years'  practice,  had  as  yet  not  made  any 
money,  while  he  himself,  who  had  not  been  to  college, 
had  accumulated,  for  the  time,  a  very  handsome  property. 
This  argument  prevailed,  and  Frederick  was  engaged  an- 
other year  at  a  salary  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars. 

At  this  time  there  were  very  few  advantages  in  town 
for  reading  or  study.  A  club  was  formed,  of  which  John 
A.  Burnliam,  S.  D.  Bell,  and  others  were  members,  —  the 
Korth  American  Review,  the  Southern  Literary  Messen- 
ger, and  the  Ivnickerl)ocker  Magazine,  being  among  the 
periodicals  taken.  These  were  kept  in  John  Porter's 
office,  over  the  store,  and  Frederick  was  appointed 
librarian.  This  club  grew  after  a  while  into  the  "  Athe- 
neum,"  and  then  after  some  years,  as  will  presently  ap- 
pear in  the  ofilicial  life  of  Mayor  Smyth,  into  the  City 
Library. 

Mr.  Smyth  continued  three  years  with  George  Porter, 
at  which  time  John  I'orter  bought  out  his  brother's  in- 
terest, and  the  business  was  carried  on  under  the  firm 
name  of  Porter  &  Smyth. 

After  a  few  years,  David  Childs  bought  out  Porter,  and 
the  firm  was  Smyth  &  Childs.  Very  soon  Childs  sold  to 
T.  ^Y.  Little,  and  the  firm  was  Smyth  &  Little,  doing 
business  in  Patten's  block.  During  an  active  and  pros- 
perous business  career,  Mr.  Smyth  became  widely  known 
in  Manchester  and    its    vicinitv   as  thorou<i:hlv   reliable. 


18  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

Quick  in  thought  and  prompt  in  action,  he  was  always 
ready  to  state  his  lowest  prices,  and  to  conclude  a  bargain 
without  any  unnecessary  loss  of  time.  The  most  humble 
mill  operative  received  the  same  courteous  attention,  and 
was  offered  goods  on  as  favorable  rates,  as  the  well-to-do 
manager  of  a  large  corporation.  Every  article  sold  was 
just  what  it  was  represented  to  be,  —  the  weights  and 
measures  were  standard,  and  there  was  no  evidence  of 
the  petty  desire  to  make  a  few  extra  cents  here  and  there, 
which  too  often  disgraces  some  of  our  leading  stores. 

On  the  11th  of  December,  1844,  Mr.  Smyth  married 
Emily,  daughter  of  John  Lane,  Esq.,  who  was  born 
on  the  22d  of  July,  1822.  Her  mother  was  Xabby 
Emerson,  and  her  grandfather  was  Lieut.-Col.  Xathaniel 
Emerson,  who  served  gallantly  at  the  battle  of  Benning- 
ton and  in  other  Revolutionary  conllicts.  Mr.  Lane  was 
one  of  the  leading  men  in  Candia,  a  justice  of  the  peace, 
a  land  surveyor,  and  a  representative  to  the  General  Court, 
and  he  gave  each  of  his  five  daughters  a  thorough  Xew 
England  education.  Emily  went  from  the  district  school 
of  Candia  to  a  then  noted  seminary  for  young  ladies  at 
Charlestown,  Mass. ;  and  when  she  had  completed  her 
studies  there,  she  taught  in  the  schools  of  Candia,  Ches- 
ter, and  Manchester  until  her  marriage. 

Mr.  Smyth's  congenial  matrimonial  alliance  was  the 
most  felicitous  feature  of  his  early  career,  as  his  bride 
was  not  only  domestic  in  her  tastes  and  a  thorough  house- 
wife, ])ut  was  admirably  fitted  by  natural  graces  and  a 
thorough  education  for  the  distinguished  positions  she 
was  afterwards  called  upon  to  occupy.  Possessing  a 
queenly  figure,  regular  features,  a  forehead  replete  with 
indications  of  iiitellect,  eyes  that  sparkled  with  intelli- 
gence, a  winning  smile,  and  manners  which  were  dignified 
yet  graceful,  Mrs.  Smyth  came  to  Manchester,  and  soon 
thoroughly  identified  herself  with  her  husband's  interests 


FlKST    liKSIDENCK    OF    GoV.    S-MYTII    T.\    ^LVXCIIKS 

TKH.  —  Ckntral,  West  of  Chestmt  St.,  1844. 


LOCATION    IN    A    NEW    HOME,    AND    MARRIAGE.  19 

in  a  manner  that  illustrated  the  noblest  ideas  of  matri- 
mony. Born  a  leader  in  society,  and  the  possessor  of 
rare  conversational  powers,  she  never  neglected  the 
modest,  unobstrusive,  and  earnest  duties  of  domestic  life. 

As  years  rolled  on,  and  Mr.  Smyth's  usefulness  was  re- 
warded by  official  trusts,  his  helpmate  advanced  with  him 
in  the  affections  of  the  public,  displaying  the  richest 
female  virtues,  the  most  practical  common-sense,  and  a 
readiness  to  sacrifice  personal  comfort  whenever  it  became 
necessary.  When  he  was  elected  governor  of  I^ew  Hamp- 
shire, and  she  became  the  associate  of  the  highest  mili- 
tary, civil,  and  judicial  authorities  of  the  Republic,  she 
was  never  led  astray  by  the  high  social  position  in  which 
she  found  herself,  but  she  continued  to  display  the  same 
Christian  principles,  the  same  deliberate  choice  of  duty 
before  pleasure,  the  same  careful  cultivation  of  the  true, 
the  good,  and  the  useful,  in  preference  to  the  showy,  the 
superficial,  and  the  self-indulgent;  and  the  same  estimate 
of  the  immense  superiority  of  character  over  fortune,  and 
of  principle  over  position.  Fortune  never  spoiled  her. 
Her  dress,  like  her  deportment,  was  always  characterized 
by  propriety  and  grace,  without  any  exhibitions  of  gaudi- 
ness  or  of  bad  taste.  In  the  gay  world  and  adorning  it, 
she  was  not  of  the  gay  world.  With  a  hand  that  scat- 
tered charity  among  the  deserving,  with  a  tongue  that 
consoled  those  in  trouble  and  comforted  those  in  grief, 
and  with  a  trusting  heart,  lovely  and  of  good  report,  ^Irs. 
Frederick  Smyth  proved  a  devoted  wife,  —  a  helpmate 
indeed. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smyth  became  identified  with  social  life 
ill  Manchester,  and  the  courtesy  with  which  tliey  treated 
those  with  whom  they  came  in  contact,  was  not  the  mere 
formal  discipline  of  refined  manners.  There  was  a  sense 
of  benefiiction  in  it,  and  to  approach  them  was  to  feel  the 
friendly  charm  which  radiated  from  their  natures.    Prom- 


20  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

inent  in  good  works,  thej  were  ever  anxious  to  promote 
objects  of  elevating  and  humanizing  influences.  Their 
intercourse  with  those  around  them  was  governed  by  the 
law  of  personal  merit,  rather  than  bj'  the  fictitious  and 
ephemeral  rules  of  fashionable  society,  and  their  friend- 
ships were  mainly  based  upon  the  same  great  principle. 

The  commercial  panic  of  1847  overturned  every  trader 
of  any  account  in  Manchester,  with  the  exception  of  the 
house  of  Kidder  &  Co.  Smyth  &  Little  struggled  man- 
fully. They  had  a  large  stock  of  goods,  for  which  they 
owed  a  considerable  amount,  and  also  large  sums  due 
them  from  their  customers.  Mr.  Smyth  was  extremely 
solicitous  of  preserving  the  credit  of  his  house,  and 
making  out  an  exact  statement  of  his  aftairs,  he  went  to 
his  creditors  in  Boston  and  exhibited  it.  His  apparent 
honesty  made  so  good  an  impression,  that  he  was  freely 
granted  all  the  time  he  needed,  and  was  offered  such 
goods  as  he  might  desire  to  purchase.  When  the  crisis 
was  over,  every  cent  was  paid,  principal  and  interest. 
Tliis  success  was  gratifying,  but  active  political  life  had 
charms  for  him,  and  when,  in  1849,  he  was  chosen  city 
clerk  of  Manchester,  he  sold  his  interest  to  his  partner, 
Mr.  Little,  and  retired  from  mercantile  life. 


Q 

o 


02 

H 


CHAPTER    IV. 

A    MUNICIPAL    CHIEF    MAGISTRATE. 

Manchester  had  meanwhile  increased,  in  fifteen  years, 
to  a  city  with  avahiation  of  seven  millions,  and  was  being 
supplied  with  all  the  requisites  of  modern  civilization. 
Streets  were  graded,  churches  and  schoolhouses  were 
built,  newspa})ers  were  established,  a  fire  department  was 
organized.  The  different  grades  of  Freemasons  and  Odd 
Fellows  were  instituted,  temperance  and  benevolent  soci- 
eties were  formed,  and  the  sandy  plain  became  the  site 
of  a  prosperous  city. 

In  1849,  Mr.  Smyth  disposed  of  his  mercantile  busi- 
ness to  his  partner,  and  accepted  the  position  of  city 
clerk.  lie  at  once  investigated  the  duties  of  the  ofiice 
which  he  had  been  chosen  to  fill,  and  at  his  entrance 
into  }>ublic  life  formed  a  high  ideal  standard  of  his 
duties.  He  not  only  complied  with  the  requirements 
of  the  law,  l)ut  sought  out  work  desirable  and  }>roper  to 
be  done;  in  fact,  made  the  most  of  his  ofhce  in  all  such 
resi)ects.  Anvthino-  worth  doino-  was  worth  doing  not 
oidy  well,  but  in  the  very  best  possible  manner.  The 
annual  city  report  for  1849-50,  issued  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  new  clerk,  was  commended  for  the  system- 
atic manner  of  its  execution,  and  we  are  told  in  the 
American  and  Messenger  of  that  date  that  — 

"In  convention,  he  was  re-elected  city  clerk  by  a  hand- 
some majority,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  two  thirds 
of  the  council  are  politically  opposed  to  him.  This  is  a 
compliment  to  Mr.  S.  which  has  l)een  well  merited  by 
his  faithfulness  and  courtesv  during-  the  last  year.'' 


22  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

This  efficient  discharge  of  duty  was  not  without  its 
effect.  In  January  of  the  year  1852,  he  was  chosen  sec- 
retary of  the  Whig  convention  of  Hillsborough  County, 
and  at  the  March  election  following  was  elected  mayor  of 
Manchester. 

At  the  inauguration  of  Mayor  Sm^'th,  the  Rev.  Cyrus 
W.  Wallace,  then  in  the  prime  of  life,  and  in  the  midst 
of  a  long  and  successful  ministry,  offered  the  customary 
prayer,  and  Mayor  Smyth  read  his  first  inaugural  address. 

Gentlemen  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen  and  Common 
Council  : 

In  pursuance  of  the  requisitions  of  our  city  charter,  we 
are  now  assembled  at  the  commencement  of  the  seventh 
year  of  the  administration  of  our  municipal  affairs.  By 
one  of  the  provisions  of  the  charter,  it  is  the  duty  of  the 
mayor  to  "  communicate  from  time  to  time,  to  the  board 
of  aldermen  and  common  council,  such  information,  and 
recommend  such  measures,  as  the  interests  of  the  city 
shall  in  his  judgment  require." 

Having  been  honored  by  a  call  to  that  office  by  the 
suffrages  of  my  fellow-citizens,  and  taken  the  required 
oath  to  perform  faithfully  and  impartially  all  the  duties 
incumbent  on  me,  I  deem  it  appropriate  on  this  occasion 
to  submit  a  few  remarks  for  your  consideration. 

It  is  with  much  difficulty,  gentlemen,  that  I  enter  upon 
the  duties  of  this  office,  especially  when  I  realize  that  it 
has  heretofore  l)een  filled  by  men  of  more  mature  age 
and  experience  than  myself.  I  fear  I  may  fall  far  short 
of  the  expectations  of  my  fellow-citizens  who  have  placed 
me  in  this  responsible  position. 

But  I  am  encouraged,  gentlemen,  in  being  associated 
with  so  large  a  numljer  of  the  members  of  former  boards, 
and  by  the  assurance  I  feel  that  I  shall  have  the  hearty 
co-operation  and  support  of  you  all,  in  my  ettbrts  to  pro- 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  23 

mote  the  welfare  of  our  city ;  and  that  all  measures  ma- 
terially aftecting  the  interests  of  our  constituents  must 
pass  through  your  respective  hoards.  I  earnestly  solicit 
from  each  of  you,  gentlemen,  counsel  and  advice  or  sug- 
gestions that  will  enable  me  more  worthily  to  fulfill  the 
duties  of  the  office  which  I  have  now  assumed. 

I  might  on  this  occasion  review  the  successive  steps  by 
which  Manchester,  in  the  short  space  of  fifteen  years, 
from  the  rank  of  a  town  of  two  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  a  valuation  of  half  a  million  of  dollars,  has  advanced 
to  the  rank  of  a  city  of  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  with 
a  valuation  of  seven  millions  of  dollars  ;  but  as  you  will 
shortly  be  furnished  with  a  history  of  Manchester,  which 
will  probably  contain  all  such  matters  of  interest,  I  pro- 
pose rather,  in  the  few  remarks  I  shall  make,  to  speak, 
in  a  business  manner,  of  some  of  the  subjects  which  will 
very  soon  engage  our  attention. 

For  information  in  relation  to  the  financial  aftairs  of 
the  city,  I  refer  you  to  the  report  of  the  committee  on 
finance  of  last  year,  which,  I  have  reason  to  believe, 
contains  an  accurate  and  true  statement  of  the  financial 
condition  of  the  city  Feb.  1,  1852,  and  which,  with  other 
reports  thereto  annexed,  will  assist  you  to  form  a  correct 
judgment  of  the  manner  in  which  the  affairs  of  the 
city  have  been  managed  the  past  year,  and  of  what  may 
be  required  for  the  ensuing  year.  The  city  debt,  prop- 
erly so  called  (not,  of  course,  including  several  outstand- 
ing claims),  amounted,  Feb.  1,  1852,  to  $98,431.  The 
amount  of  interest  due  on  the  same  was  $3,668.36,  as 
appears  from  said  report.  The  purposes  for  which  tins 
del)t  was  created,  or  the  wisdom  with  which  it  was  ex- 
pended, are  not  questions  for  us  here  to  discuss.  It  was 
contracted  l)y  councils  composed  of  men  of  age,  expe- 
rience, and  ability. 

The  debt  is  upon  us,  and  we  have  the  power  to  in- 
crease or  decrease  it.     I  am  not  aware  that  there  will  be 


24  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

any  necessity  of  increasing  this  debt  the  present  year ; 
indeed,  I  hope  we  may  be  able  to  meet  all  necessary  ex- 
penditures and  decrease  the  debt  in  some  measure,  with- 
out augmenting  the  rate  of  taxation  over  that  of  last 
year. 

It  will  be  your  duty  at  an  early  day  to  decide  upon  the 
appropriations  to  be  made  to  meet  the  necessary  expenses 
of  the  city  the  present  year.  This  will  require  your  pa- 
tient and  careful  attention,  as  it  is  difficult  to  determine 
at  the  commencement  of  the  year,  with  any  degree  of  ex- 
actness, what  amount  of  money  will  be  required  for  the 
several  departments  of  expenditure,  and  yet  it  is  desirable 
that  a  sufficient  amount  be  raised  to  meet  all  necessary 
expenses,  without  submitting  our  citizens  to  unnecessary 
taxation  for  a  surplus. 

I  will  next  call  your  attention,  gentlemen,  to  the  sub- 
ject of  our  schools,  which  will  require  a  larger  appro- 
priation than  any  other  department, —  a  subject  whiclihas 
not  passed  unnoticed  by  the  messages  of  any  of  our  cities 
in  New  England  for  many  a  year;  and  yet,  gentlemen,  in 
common  with  all  others,  I  again  call  your  attention  to  the 
subject  as  one  well  worthy  of  your  deliberation  and  foster- 
ing care.  Vij  the  liberality  and  enlightened  policy  of  our 
citizens  in  the  various  school  districts,  schoolhouses  have 
been  erected  which  are  in  a  measure  commensurate  with 
the  wants  and  welfare  of  teachers  and  scholars,  as  well  as 
in  conformity  with  the  spirit  of  the  age.  From  my  own 
personal  oljservation,  and  the  very  able  report  of  our  effi- 
cient school  committee  of  the  last  year,  and  from  the 
opinion  of  others,  in  whose  ability  to  form  correct  judg- 
ment in  the  premises  I  have  confidence,  I  am  inclined  to 
the  opinion  that  our  schools  are  improving;  and  although 
subject  to  the  drawbacks  and  hinderances  consequent 
upon  a  somewhat  fluctuating  population,  they  will  yet 
favorably  compare  with  the  schools  of  any  other  town  or 
city  of  our  age  in  New  England. 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  25 

While  a  large  proportion  of  the  children  and  youth  of 
our  city  are  the  constant  and  regular  recipients  of  the 
advantages  of  our  common-school  system,  it  is  yet  a  no- 
torious fact,  that  at  all  hours  of  the  day  there  may  be 
seen  in  our  public  streets  and  thoroughfares,  scores  of 
children  wlio  are  not  connected  with  any  school,  and  who 
are  growing  up  adepts  in  vice  and  disturbers  of  the  peace 
and  quiet  of  our  city;  and  although  these  in  many  in- 
stances are  the  children  of  foreigners,  it  is  yet  to  be 
feared  that  too  many  of  our  native-born  citizens  are  un- 
mindful of  the  duty  they  owe  themselves,  their  children, 
and  the  community  at  large,  in  this  respect. 

To  remedy  this  evil,  and  bring  these  children  within 
the  influence  of  such  instruction  as  shall  best  promote 
their  welfare  here  and  hereafter,  I  would  recommend  to 
your  consideration  the  valuable  suggestions  of  Hon.  C. 
E.  Potter,  in  his  report  to  the  mayor  and  aldermen  : 
"  That  the  police  or  school  committee  be  clothed  with 
sutticient  authority  from  the  proper  source  to  place  and 
keep  at  school  in  the  diiferent  wards,  all  the  vagrant 
children  in  the  city." 

The  amount  appropriated  for  schools  last  year  was 
§8,300.  An  increased  appropriation  is  recommended  by 
our  school  committee  for  the  present  year.  The  amount 
necessary  to  l)e  raised  for  the  l)uilding  and  repairing  of 
schoolliouses  is  determined  by  the  districts,  and  you  will 
have  to  appropriate  what  they  shall  order,  which  must 
be  assessed  upon  the  polls  and  estates  in  the  districts 
where  the  expenditure  is  to  be  made. 

A  large  amount  of  expenditure  will  always  be  required 
for  tlie  repairs  of  highways  in  our  city,  in  order  to  keep 
them  in  a  safe  and  convenient  condition,  as  they  are  nu- 
merous, and  traverse  a  large  extent  of  territory.  The 
amount  appropriated  for  higliways  and  l)ri(lges  last  year 
was  85,000,   32,750    of  Avhieli    was    for   District   Xo.    2, 


26  LIFE    OF   FREDEKICK   SMYTH. 

which  embraces  the  city  proper,  including  Janesville. 
The  balance,  §2,250,  was  appropriated  to  the  outer  dis- 
tricts. I  think  as  much  will  be  needed  for  these  districts 
this  year.  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  streets  in  District 
No.  2  may  be  kept  in  good  condition  the  present  year  for 
a  much  less  sum  than  was  expended  last  year.  In  con- 
nection with  the  subject  of  highways,  I  wish  to  say  a 
word  in  relation  to  sidewalks. 

The  importance  of  sidewalks  for  the  accommodation  of 
foot-passengers  has  been  much  overlooked.  "While  we 
are  careful  to  furnish  good  and  well-graded  streets  for 
teams  and  carriages,  we  should  not  forget  that  the  travel 
on  foot,  when  compared  in  distance  with  that  of  teams 
and  vehicles,  is  much  the  greater ;  and  that  while  the 
latter  is  furnished  with  all  the  accommodations  it  re- 
quires, the  former  should  not  be  left  to  pursue  its  way 
through  mud  and  water  and  rubbish  of  the  wayside,  or, 
what  is  worse,  over  uneven  and  ill-constructed  walks.  In 
many  cities  a  policy  prevails  that  where  the  abutters  will 
furnish  edge-stones  the  city  causes  them  to  be  set  and  the 
walks  constructed  at  the  expense  of  the  city.  In  other 
cities  the  government  constructs  the  sidewalks  and  assess 
the  cost  thereof  on  the  abutting  estates.  But  as  we  have 
no  law  in  our  State  authorizing  the  latter  policy,  I  would 
suggest  the  propriety  of  adopting  the  former,  or  a  similar 
one,  and  that  a  part  of  the  money  appropriated  for  high- 
ways in  District  Xo.  2  be  ex]>ended  to  improve  the  side- 
walks. 

Expenditures  for  new  highways  for  several  years  past 
have  been  very  large,  and  in  the  opinion  of  many  of  our 
citizens  (with  whom  I  concur)  have  been  much  larger 
than  the  pul>lic  good  recpiired.  I  have  no  doubt  all  these 
new  highways  will  at  some  future  time  be  needed ;  but 
our  city  is  not  in  a  financial  position  at  this  time  to 
justify  large  expenditures  in  anticipation  of  tlie  future. 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  27 

Our  present  wants  require  all  the  tax  our  citizens  can 
aiford  to  pay.  I  hope  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  make 
an  appropriation  for  this  purpose  the  present  year. 

A  petition  is  now  before  the  court,  to  be  referred  to  the 
road  commissioners,  for  a  new  highway  near  Webster's 
Mills,  which  the  board  of  aldermen  refused  to  lay  out, 
and  which,  if  laid  out,  Avill  require  an  appropriation. 
The  commissioners  have  laid  out  the  highway  over  the 
Falls  bridge,  and  assessed  upon  Manchester  the  sum  of 
$2,185  for  that  part  of  the  bridge  situated  in  Manchester, 
for  tlie  paynient  of  which  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide. 

A  large  amount  of  money  has  been  expended  in  former 
years  for  the  construction  of  common  sewers,  and  most 
of  our  principal  streets  are  now  well  drained.  I  think 
that  a  small  appropriation  only  will  be  needed  the  present 
year.  A  claim  has  been  presented  against  the  city  for 
damage  alleged  to  have  been  caused  to  the  buildings  of 
certain  persons  by  acts  of  the  city,  relative  to  the  sewer 
and  reservoir  upon  Hanover  street.  This  subject  should 
receive  your  early  attention,  to  ascertain  if  the  city  is 
liable  in  this  case.  Should  it  be  found  that  we  are  liable 
for  this  damage,  an  a]>propriation  should  be  made  for  this 
purpose,  and  means  taken  to  prevent  a  similar  occurrence 
hereafter. 

I  next  call  your  attention,  gentlemen,  to  the  subject  of 
the  tire  department.  It  is  supposed  that  the  impor- 
tance of  sustaining  in  our  midst  an  efficient  and  well  reg- 
ulated tire  department  is  by  no  one  (piestioned.  Our 
present  department  has  given  indisputable  evidence  of  its 
efficiency,  and  has  to  an  unusual  extent  the  contidence  of 
our  people.  Engine  Co.  Xo.  2,  which  has  not  l)een  rec- 
ognized by  the  city  for  some  two  years,  owing  to  the 
dila}»idate(l  condition  of  their  engine,  has  recently  been 
resuscitated  and  furnished  with  a  new  and  costly  machine 
by  the  Amoskeag  Compan\',  and  it  is  probable  will  apply 


28  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

for  admission  into  the  department  at  the  commencement 
of  the  year,  an  application  which,  if  made,  will  no  doubt 
receive  your  favorable  consideration.  Whether  any  alter- 
ation in  our  ordinances  relating  to  the  department  is 
required,  you  have  facilities  for  judging  in  common  with 
myself  and  others.  That  said  ordinances  are  not  fault- 
less is,  I  believe,  admitted  by  all  who  have  given  the 
matter  attention ;  but  in  what  manner  they  can  be 
improved,  so  as  to  give  better  satisfaction  to  all  parties 
concerned,  is  a  question  that  will  require  your  careful 
consideration.  I  am  of  opinion  that  the  department 
itself  would  prefer  a  fixed  compensation ;  but  whether 
this  is  the  case  or  not  could  only  be  ascertained  by  con- 
sultation with  its  memljers ;  and  whatever  may  be  done 
by  you  in  relation  to  this  matter,  I  am  decidedly  of 
opinion  that  you  will  proceed  with  better  prospects  of 
success  when  you  shall  have,  through  your  committees, 
conferred  with  the  members  of  the  fire  department,  or 
their  representatives. 

In  any  case,  you  will  need  to  make  a  much  larger 
ap[»ropriation  than  last  year,  to  meet  what  nmy  1)ecome 
due  on  the  1st  of  April  by  the  present  ordinances,  and 
the  expenses  during  the  present  year. 

Some  discussion  has  been  had  on  the  part  of  our  fellow- 
citizens  in  relation  to  obtaining  a  su})ph'  of  water  from 
the  Merrimack  river  in  connection  with  the  Amoskeag 
Manufacturing  Company,  which  matter  was  l)rought  to 
the  notice  of  your  predecessors  l)y  the  engineers  of  the 
fire  (le[)artment,but  there  lias  been  no  action  in  the])rem- 
ises  so  far  as  the  city  is  eoncerned.  I  am  not  inl'ormed  of 
the  precise  nature  of  the  plan  proposed  to  l)e  pursued  by 
said  company  in  its  detail,  and  am  therefore  unal)le  at 
this  time  to  give  an  opinion  in  relation  to  the  matter,  but 
at  the  same  time  will  venture  to  remark  that,  if  a  favor- 
able  opportunity  is   ofi'ered  to  obtain  a  ^^ujiply  of  pure 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  29 

water  in  connection  with  said  company  for  the  use  of  the 
city,  at  an  expense  much  less  than  would  otherwise  be 
required,  I  would  recommend  that  a  joint  special  com- 
mittee be  appointed  to  investigate  the  matter,  and  report 
to  the  city  council  as  soon  as  may  be.  I  will  here  also 
say  that  whenever  the  time  arrives  to  decide  the  matter 
of  the  connection  of  the  city  with  such  an  enterprise,  I 
should  recommend  that  the  question  ])e  referred  directly 
to  the  people  for  a  decision. 

I  beg  leave  next  to  call  your  attention  to  our  city 
farm,  which  seems  in  a  measure  to  have  escaped  the 
attention  of  our  city  government  heretofore.  We  have 
all  the  facilities  necessary  for  making  this  farm  the 
model  farm  of  our  county  and  the  pride  of  our  city,  at  a 
small  expense.  All  the  enriching  substances  necessary 
to  be  removed  from  our  streets  sliould  be  secured  for  the 
benefit  of  the  form,  and  I  would  recommend  that  the 
teams  belonging  to  the  same  be  put  in  requisition  for  that 
purpose.  I  would  also  suggest  that  proper  measures  be 
taken  to  procure  the  most  approved  breeds  of  stock  for 
the  farm,  and  thereby  not  only  benefit  our  city,  but  the 
whole  country  around.  In  connection  with  this  subject, 
I  would  res[)eetfuny  refer  you  to  the  important  sugges- 
tions of  Hon.  C.  E.  Potter,  justice  of  the  police  court, 
relating  to  our  House  of  Correction  (in  his  report  before 
referred  to),  which  I  hope  will  receive  the  attention  they 
deserve. 

The  necessary  appropriation  for  city  farm,  paupers, 
and  city  police,  you  will  determine  in  a  great  measure 
from  the  expenditures  of  those  departments  in  previous 
years.  I  am  haytpy  to  say  that,  so  far  as  I  can  judge, 
these  departments  have  been  managed  with  commendable 
economy  and  prudence  the  past  year.  I  am  reminded  in 
this  connection  that  the  question  of  boundary  between 
the  city    farm   and    that   of  Robert   AVilson,  Esq.,    still 


30  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

remains  unsettled,  and  I  am  informed  that  during  the 
past  year  quantities  of  wood  and  timber  have  been  taken 
from  the  land  in  dispute  by  the  opposing  claimant.  I 
would  recommend  that  measures  be  immediately  taken 
to  establish  our  claim  to  this  disputed  land,  and  to  recover 
the  value  of  wood  and  timber  taken  therefrom ;  as  from 
the  best  information  I  can  gain,  the  city's  claim  can  be 
shown  to  be  clear  and  undoubted.  If  this  line  is  allowed 
to  remain  unsettled  much  longer,  there  may  be  some  dif- 
ficulty in  establishing  it,  from  the  uncertainty  of  obtain- 
ing testimony  as  to  the  original  lines  in  consequence  of 
the  decease  of  those  persons  on  whose  knowledge  depend- 
ence must  chiefly  be  placed,  in  case  reference  cannot  be 
made  to  any  authentic  place  or  record. 

From  the  reports  of  the  committees  on  commons  and 
cemetery,  it  is  thought  the  latter  will  need  no  appropria- 
tion from  you  this  year,  as  the  amount  which  will  be 
received  from  the  sale  of  lots  will  probably  meet  all  ne- 
cessary expenses. 

The  committee  on  commons  recommended  that  an 
iron  fence  be  constructed  the  present  year  around  Con- 
cord square,  agreeably  to  the  conditions  of  the  deed  of 
the  same  to  the  city.  The  fence  which  now  surrounds 
this  6(piare  seems  to  be  in  very  good  condition,  and  as 
quite  a  large  sum  will  be  necessar}-  to  construct  an  iron 
fence,  would  it  not  be  good  economy  and  for  the  best 
interest  of  the  city  to  let  the  present  fence  remain  a  few 
years,  provided  the  donors  consent  to  such  an  arrange- 
ment ? 

It  probaljly  will  not  be  necessary  to  vary  much  the 
appropriation  for  city  othcers  from  that  of  previous  years, 
as  the  pay  of  most  officers  is  established  by  ordinance, 
and  unless  altered  by  you  will  amount  to  about  the  same 
as  in  former  years.  You  will  bear  in  mind,  however, 
that  the  amount  paid  to  this  department  in  any  one  year 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  31 

is  not  invariably  the  aggregate  of  the  salaries,  as  was  the 
case  last  year,  when  $1,000  was  paid  for  services  rendered 
in  1848  and  1849. 

The  interest  of  the  city  debt  and  the  State  and  connty 
taxes  are  expenditures  beyond  your  power  to  control. 

The  appropriations  for  printing  and  stationery  and 
militia  I  think  may  be  less  than  last  year. 

The  amount  necessary  for  incidental  expenses  of  course 
you  cannot  very  well  determine,  as  this  depends  upon 
contingencies  which  no  one  can  foresee,  yet  it  will  be 
prudent  to  provide  for  all  probable  expenses  of  this  char- 
acter. 

The  expenses  of  our  city  hall  building  always  have 
been  large,  owing  in  a  measure  to  the  faulty  construction 
of  the  roof.  It  w411  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  reports, 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  items  charged  city  hall  do 
not  strictly  belong  to  that  head,  such  as  light  and  fuel  for 
the  rooms  occupied  by  the  city  government,  ringing  the 
city  bell,  etc.  I  would  suggest  the  propriety  of  making 
a  separate  appropriation  for  expenditures  of  the  latter 
named  character,  as  many  persons  who  do  not  examine 
the  reports  particularly  are  misled  by  noticing  so  large  an 
expenditure  relating  to  the  city  hall. 

A  change  in  our  system  of  collecting  taxes  is  in  my 
opinion  imperiously  demanded.  The  large  amount  re- 
maining uncollected  from  year  to  year,  and  consequent 
losses  to  the  city,  are  strong  evidences  that  some  improve- 
ment may  be  made  in  this  department.  I  would  suggest 
for  your  consideration  (should  you  have  the  power  by  the 
State  law)  the  propriety  of  authorizing  a  scale  of  dis- 
counts, having  reference  to  the  promptness  with  which 
taxes  are  paid,  with  such  regulations  in  regard  to  the  col- 
lection of  poll-taxes  as  shall  prevent  the  great  loss  to 
which  we  are  now  subjected  in  tins  respect.  The  collec- 
tor's list  should  be  placed  in  his  hands  at  an   earlier  day 


32  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

than  has  been  the  case  heretofore.  For  several  years  the 
assessment  of  taxes  has  not  been  completed  until  four 
months  of  our  financial  year  have  expired.  By  this  delay 
the  treasurer  is  obliged  to  resort  to  temporary  loans,  and 
large  losses  arise  from  the  departure  of  many  of  our  tran- 
sient population  from  the  city  before  their  taxes  can  be 
collected.  The  tax  list  should  be  in  the  hands  of  the  col- 
lector by  the  1st  of  May. 

You  are  probably  aware,  gentlemen,  that  much  com- 
plaint has  been  made  of  the  imposition  practiced  in  the 
sale  of  wood  in  our  city  without  being  surveyed  as 
required  by  ordinance.  I  think  this  evil  might  be  rem- 
edied by  appointing  one  surveyor  of  wood,  whose  duty  it 
shall  be  to  have  charge  of  the  measuring  of  all  the  wood 
sold  in  the  city  from  vehicles,  and  to  complain  to  the  city 
marshal  of  all  violations  of  said  ordinance.  Assistant 
surveyors  might  be  appointed  if  desired. 

There  are  many  suljjects  other  than  those  I  have  noticed 
that  will  claim  your  attention,  to  which  I  may  allude 
hereafter,  I  will,  however,  say  a  -word  at  this  time  in 
relation  to  the  planting  of  trees.  Our  citizens  have  done 
much  to  beautify  and  adorn  the  city  in  this  respect,  and 
already  in  the  summer  months  it  is  beginning  to  present 
a  rural  appearance.  I  hope  they  will  continue  this  im- 
provement, until  all  our  streets  shall  be  bounded  with 
trees,  not  only  in  the  city  proper,  but  on  the  streets  lead- 
ing by  and  through  her  farm.  It  will  enhance  the  value 
of  the  property  tenfold  the  amount  expended  in  this  way, 
and  cause  expressions  of  gratitude  from  those  that  come 
after  us. 

I  also  eml>race  this  opportunity  as  perhaps  the  most 
appropriate  occasion  to  say,  gentlemen,  that  I  shall  be 
happy  to  co-operate  with  you  in  enforcing  such  judicious 
measures,  laws,  and  regulations  as  we  now  have,  or  in 
creating  others   for  the  purpose  of  restraining  vice,  and 


mayor's  inaugural  address.  33 

promoting  sobriety,  morality,  and  good  order  in  our  city. 
You  will  see,  gentlemen,  that  the  most  important  affairs 
of  the  city  will  engage  your  attention  in  the  early  part  of 
the  year.  After  the  appropriations  shall  have  been  made 
and  the  taxes  assessed,  no  expenditures  ought  to  be 
authorized  beyond  that  amount  (unless  provision  be  made 
for  the  same  by  loan),  as  the  expenses  of  the  several 
departments  should  be  strictly  kept  within  the  appropri- 
ations. 

A  strict  accountability  from  all  persons  entrusted  with 
public  moneys  should  in  all  cases  be  required,  and  none 
disbursed  except  by  competent  authority.  We  should 
make  it  a  ruling  principle  to  observe  the  same  economy 
in  our  public  as  in  our  private  affairs.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  should  not  let  what  will  conduce  to  the  good 
and  happiness  of  the  whole,  be  checked  by  a  penurious 
spirit.  Let  it  be  our  endeavor  to  increase  the  comfort 
and  happiness  of  our  fellow-citizens  quietly  and  unpre- 
tendingly with  as  little  of  the  burden  of  taxes  as  possible. 

We  have  entered  upon  a  solemn  duty.  Many  of  the 
most  important  and  dearest  interests  of  fifteen  thousand 
souls  are  entrusted  to  our  care.  May  no  selfish  or  per- 
sonal consideration  influence  us  to  turn  from  the  path  of 
strict  duty.  By  the  solemnities  of  this  occasion  we  are 
consecrated  to  act  for  the  public,  and  not  for  ourselves. 

Let  us,  gentlemen,  enter  upon  our  respective  duties 
with  a  deep  and  just  sense  of  our  responsibility  to  that 
Being  whose  l)lessing  has  been  invoked  on  this  occasion, 
realizing  that  His  all-seeing  eye  is  continually  upon  us, 
and  that  to  Him  we  must  account,  not  only  for  our  own 
acts,  but  for  every  motive. 

May  we  be  guided  by  His  wisdom  and  enabled  to  dis- 
charge in  His  fear  our  several  duties  in  a  manner  that 
shall  be  honorable  to  ourselves  and  promote  the  welfare 
of  our  city. 


CHAPTER    Y. 

THE    WORKERS    OF    MANCHESTER. 

Manchester  was  proud  of  her  young  mayor,  whose 
eiRciency  was  soon  manifest.  Immediately  after  his  in- 
auguration, a  "  Manufacturers  and  Mechanics  Festival  " 
was  held,  at  which  Mayor  Smyth  was  called  out  by  the 
following  toast :  "  Our  honored  Mayor,  the  youngest  of 
the  train,  yet  a  fair  representative  of  ^lanchester  labor, 
and  rich  in  the  confidence  of  the  masses."  In  response, 
he  pleasantly  referred  to  the  days  of  his  boyhood,  and 
said  that  his  first  job  of  work  was  a  three-days'  engage- 
ment at  piling  wood,  for  which  he  received  the  sum  total 
of  twelve  and  a  half  cents,  an  amount  which  aftbrded 
him  more  pride  and  satisfaction  than  any  he  had  earned 
since. 

At  the  "  Stark  Mills  Festival,"  held  soon  after,  he  re- 
marked on  the-  rapid  growth  of  the  city,  and  on  the  fact 
that  he  had  been  a  resident  thirteen  years,  and  was  per- 
sonally acquainted  with  most  of  those  at  work  on  the 
Stark.  Such  incidents  reveal  one  secret  of  Mr.  Smyth's 
success.  In  the  rivalries  of  that  early  time  there  were 
men  of  culture,  .lawyers,  and  others  against  him  in  the 
race  for  po})ular  [ireferment.  But  his  untiring  industry 
and  his  genuine  sympathy  for  labor  gave  him  the  sup- 
port of  a  people  who  were  laborers  and  were  not  ashamed 
of  it. 

In  May,  1852,  against  considerable  opposition,  he  ob- 
tained the  authority  from  the  city  council  to  set  trees  on 
Elm  street  and  about  land  owned  by  the  city;  the  Amos- 
keag  Company  were   to   furnish  the  trees,  and  the  city 


THE  WORKERS  OF  MANCHESTER.  35 

agreed  to  set  them.  To  this  matter  the  mayor  attended 
in  person;  not  only  at  tliat  time,  hut  every  year  since, 
with  a  few  exceptions,  when  away  from  home,  he  has 
inspected  the  trees  officially  when  in  office,  and  as  a  citi- 
zen when  out,  calling  the  attention  of  the  proper  author- 
ities to  any  need.  Some,  but  not  all,  of  his  successors 
in  the  mayoralty  helped  on  the  good  work. 

In  July  and  in  October  of  Mayor  Smyth's  first  official 
term,  the  Whig  party  lost  its  great  leaders,  Henry  Clay 
and  Daniel  Webster,  and  it  was  his  sad  duty  to  officially 
announce  their  deaths  to  the  city  council,  by  whom  ap- 
propriate resolutions  were  passed.  He  also  called  a 
citizens'  meeting,  saying  that  "  the  trembling  wires  had 
just  brought  the  tidings  of  the  death  of  ITew  Hampshire's 
greatest  son,"  and  at  that  meeting  gracefuly  called  the 
Hon.  Richard  H.  Ayer,  the  personal  friend  and  acquain- 
tance of  Mr.  Webster,  to  preside.  In  those  days,  the 
great  political  leaders  were  reverenced  by  the  young  men 
who  supported  them,  and  not  belittled  by  absurd  reports 
of  interviews,  telegraphed  over  the  country  by  irrespon- 
sible caterers  for  the  press.  !Mayor  Smyth  had  grown  up 
a  Whig,  wedded  to  the  principles  of  Washington  and 
Hamilton,  Clay  and  Webster,  —  principles  that  will  live 
and  illustrate  the  history  of  our  country  and  of  constitu- 
tional liberty  through  all  coming  time. 

The  fire  department  received  careful  attention  from 
Mayor  Smyth,  and  when  its  annual  gathering  was  held 
in  the  September  of  1852,  he  received  their  endorsement 
in  this  toast :  "  Young,  vigorous,  and  energetic,  he  fitly 
represents  our  city." 

There  had  been  considerable  feeling  in  regard  to  our 
need  of  increased  depot  accommodations,  and  also  to 
what  many  citizens  considered  needless  obstruction  of 
the  highway  by  the  Concord  Railroad.  In  October  and 
December   of  that  year,  meetings  were  lield,  and  a  very 


36  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

considerable  amount  of  public  indignation  expressed. 
The  controversy  was  managed  by  the  mayor  in  behalf  of 
the  city,  and  resulted  in  a  due  observance  of  the  law  by 
the  railroad  corporation,  and  ultimately  in  increased  de- 
pot accommodations  for  freight  and  travel. 

In  March,  1853,  Mayor  Smyth  was  re-elected  by  a  very 
decisive  vote ;  and  the  American  and  Messenger,  speak- 
ing of  his  first  year's  services,  said :  "  He  was  elected  by 
a  flattering  vote  ;  the  confidence  which  was  then  reposed 
in  him  has  now  been  perfected.  AVhatever  fell  under 
his  inspection  has  received  his  attention  regardless  of 
time  or  labor.  AVe  have  never  had  a  public  ofiicer  who 
labored  more  zealously  or  impartially  in  the  performance 
of  duty." 

Here  follows  Mayor  Smyth's  second  inaugural  address, 
delivered  March,  1853. 

Gentlemen  of  the  City  Council  : 

Having  been  called  a  second  time  by  my  fellow-citizens 
to  fill  the  highest  ofiice  of  our  city,  I  feel  called  upon  to 
express  my  sincere  thanks  for  this  renewed  testimonial  of 
public  confidence.  I  am  happy  to  find  myself  associated 
with  so  large  a  number  who  are  well  known  to  take  a 
deep  and  abiding  interest  in  the  prosperity  of  our  city, 
whose  generous  aid  I  shall  hope  to  receive  in  my  endeav- 
ors to  promote  the  public  welfare.  Our  fellow-citizens 
have  committed  to  us  the  management  of  the  municipal 
aftairs  of  this  city,  for  the  year  on  which  we  are  to-day 
entering.  In  accepting  this  trust,  and  by  the  oaths  we 
have  just  taken,  we  have  pledged  ourselves  to  act  for  the 
best  interests  of  the  city,  regardless  of  all  personal  con- 
siderations. Under  our  city  charter,  as  under  that  of 
other  cities,  the  municipal  powers  of  the  people,  as  de- 
fined by  the  constitution  and  laws  of  the  State,  devolve 
upon  the  city  council,  which,  like  the  legislature,  is  com- 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  37 

posed  of  two  branches.  These  branches,  except  in  a  few 
specified  cases,  act  by  separate  boards  and  by  concurrent 
vote,  each  board  having  a  negative  on  the  other.  It  is 
the  duty  of  the  executive  officer  to  devise  and  recommend 
such  measures  as  he  may  deem  to  be  proper  and  useful, 
and  to  preside  over  the  upper  branch,  and  over  the  city 
council  in  convention ;  in  the  event  of  a  division  in  either 
assembly,  he  has  a  casting  vote.  The  upper  branch,  also, 
is  a  board  of  council  to  the  executive  officer,  having  a 
negative  on  his  nominations.  It  is  also  clothed  with  ex- 
ecutive powers,  and  has  exclusive  duties  imposed  upon  it 
by  general  and  special  laws.  The  advantages  and  con- 
veniences of  this  mode  of  municipal  government,  as 
adapted  to  a  populous  community,  are  conceded  by  all. 

One  of  the  evils  incident  to  city  governments  is  to 
legislate  too  much.  The  proper  course  for  a  government 
like  ours  is  to  keep  strictly  within  the  line  of  law  and 
duty,  leaving  individuals  as  free  as  possible,  when  they 
do  not  interfere  with  the  rights  of  others.  It  will  be 
your  province,  gentlemen,  to  take  a  calm  survey  of  what 
has  been  done  by  your  predecessors  during  the  six  years 
our  city  government  has  existed,  and  sanction  whatever 
has  been  rightly  done,  correct  the  wrong,  and  take  such 
new  steps  as  the  wants  of  our  community  may  require. 
You  will  perceive  the  importance  of  early  making  your- 
selves 2)ersonally  acquainted  with  the  wants,  requirements, 
and  operations  of  the  several  departments  of  expen- 
ditures for  which  appropriations  will  have  to  be  made. 
I  can  only  give  you  at  this  time  a  mere  outline  of  the 
condition  and  wants  of  those  departments. 

The  annual  reports  and  other  documents  will  be  on 
your  files,  to  which  your  attention  is  requested.  The 
finances  will  claim  your  solicitous  attention.  Our  con- 
stituents expect  of  us  that  economy  in  all  the  expenditures 
over  which  we  have  control,  consistent  with  the  prospec- 


38  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tive  interests  of  our  growing  city.  It  gives  me  pleasure 
to  state  that  the  finances  of  our  city  are  now  in  a  very- 
satisfactory  condition.  The  ordinary  expenses  of  the  last 
year  were  less  than  the  amount  appropriated,  and  the 
amount  of  receipts  from  various  sources  exceeded  the 
estimates.  The  city  debt  has  been  decreased,  and  all  de- 
mands against  the  city  promptly  paid,  when  due.  A 
large  part  of  the  debt  is  now  funded,  falling  due  as  fol- 
lows: $22,500,  July  1,  1857;  §17,500,  July  1,  1862; 
§20,000,  July  1,  1867;  and  §20,000,  July  1,  1872,  — the 
interest  being  due  annually  July  1,  as  per  coupons.  The 
balance  of  the  debt  is  in  notes,  about  §3,000  of  which 
will  become  due  the  present  year,  which  may  be  paid  by 
an  appropriation  (and  thus  reduce  the  debt  that  amount), 
or  by  city  stock  unsold.  The  whole  debt  at  the  present 
time  is  §97,550,  and  the  interest  due  on  the  same  is  §2,- 
955,39.  This  debt,  considering  the  permanent  improve- 
ments which  have  l)een  made  in  the  city  during  the  last 
ten  years,  and  the  property  now  owned  by  the  city,  avail- 
able and  unavailable,  cannot  be  considered  large,  and  I 
believe  is  comparatively  less  than  that  of  many  other 
cities  in  Xew  England,  It  has  been  suggested  that  it 
would  be  good  policy  to  sell  the  Davi;>  farm,  and  apply 
the  proceeds  to  the  liquidation  of  the  debt.  The  Stevens 
fiirm  is  amply  sufficient  for  all  the  purposes  for  which 
the  city  will  ever  want  land  in  tliat  part  of  the  city.  The 
first-iuimed  farm  would  undoubtedly  sell  for  more  than 
double  its  original  cost ;  but  whether  the  time  has  arrived 
when  it  would  be  good  policy  to  sell  it,  is  a  question  for 
you  to  determine.  Tlie  city  owns  a  lot  of  land  with  a 
l)uilding  on  ^^errimack  street,  which  it  has  no  use  for  at 
present,  and  I  am  not  aware  of  any  future  want  of  it.  I 
recommend  that  it  be  sold  ;  and  that  the  same  disposition 
be  made  of  the  old  town  house  (if  we  have  the  riglit), 
as  it  is  fast  going  to  decay.     The  court-house  lot  still 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  39 

remains  in  the  hands  of  the  city,  and  cannot  exactly  be 
considered  available  property  in  its  present  position. 

In  order  to  sustain  the  reputation  we  now  have  for  the 
excellence  of  our  schools,  and  maintain  them  in  a  condi- 
tion to  compare  favorably  with  our  sister  cities,  similarly 
situated,  throughout  New  England,  as  well  as  to  meet  the 
wants  consequent  upon  our  increasing  population,  —  and, 
it  gives  mo  pleasure  to  say,  increased  interest  mani- 
fested by  our  community  in  this  important  subject, —  a 
larger  appropriation  will  be  required  the  present  year  for 
this  department  than  has  ever  before  been  made  by  our 
city  in  any  one  year.  More  schools  will  not  only  be  de- 
manded by  those  increasing  wants,  but  a  greater  compen- 
sation will  also  be  required  by  some  of  our  teachers, 
which  must  be  granted,  or  we  shall  from  time  to  time 
suifer  by  their  transfer  to  other  localities,  where  their 
services  are  better  appreciated.  I  would  by  no  means 
have  it  understood  that  I  suppose  it  will  be  for  our  inter- 
est to  establish  a  scale  of  prices  equal  to  the  older  and 
more  wealthy  cities,  but  so  to  compensate  our  teachers 
that  it  shall  no  longer  be  said  that  our  best  teachers  leave 
us,  for  want  of  adequate  su})port  at  home,  and  locate 
themselves  more  happily  in  other  communities,  which  in 
a  pecuniary  point  of  view  have  much  less  ability  tlian 
ourselves.  It  should  be  our  object  to  encourage  the  art 
of  teaching  as  a  profession,  and  not  lend  our  influence  to 
any  system  that  shall  give  our  schools  an  unstal)le  charac- 
ter, by  the  employment  of  those  who  have  no  love  for  the 
occupation,  and  rc.-^ort  to  it  only  as  a  tem[>orarv  necessity, 
abandoning  it  whenever  more  congenial  pursuits  }>resent 
themselves. 

During  the  last  year,  I  ought  not  to  omit  to  make  men- 
tion of  the  pleasing  fact  which  has  met  niy  observation, 
that  the  number  of  vagrant  children  in  our  streets  and 
thoroughfares  durino-  the  term  time  of  our  schools  has 


40  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

very  essentially  decreased ;  and  in  this  connection,  I  may 
very  properly  call  your  attention  to  the  fact,  that  our  State 
legislature,  at  its  last  session,  passed,  as  it  appears  to  me, 
a  wise  and  salutary  law  in  relation  to  this  matter,  and 
that  your  predecessors  have  taken  action  on  the  same 
subject,  calculated  to  make  it  eiFectual  in  our  city. 

Your  attention  is  commended  to  the  annual  report  of 
the  school  committee  of  last  year,  and  in  an  especial 
manner  to  that  portion  of  it  relating  to  the  duties  of  the 
school  committee,  and  the  propriety  of  abolishing  that 
board  as  now  constituted,  and  establishing  in  its  place  a 
school  commissioner,  with  such  compensation  as  shall  give 
him  adequate  support,  and  enable  him  to  give  his  entire 
time  and  attention  to  the  interests  of  our  schools.  The 
duties  devolving  upon  a  school-committeeman  necessarily 
involve  the  expenditure  of  more  time  than  most  of  our 
citizens  are  willing  or  find  it  convenient  to  appropriate  to 
the  ofiice,  as  we  have  in  our  city  very  few  who  are  not 
engaged  in  active  business,  requiring  in  its  prosecution 
their  entire  time  and  talent.  The  above  considerations, 
and  others  that  might  l)e  named,  if  the  limits  of  this  ad- 
dress would  permit  of  it,  induce  me  to  urge  upon  your 
attention  the  propriety  of  petitioning  the  next  legislature 
for  this  desirable  change  in  our  charter. 

A  less  sum  was  expended  for  the  repairs  of  highways 
the  last  year  (not  including  the  amount  expended  in  build- 
ing bridges  destroyed  b}- freshets)  than  there  has  been  for 
several  preceding  years  ;  notwithstanding  which,  I  be- 
lieve it  will  be  conceded  that  most  of  our  highways  and 
streets  were  never  in  better  condition  than  during  the 
past  season.  The  proper  construction  and  repairing  of 
highways  to  the  l)est  advantage,  and  with  the  least  cost, 
requires  more  than  ordinary  experience,  skill,  and  en- 
ergy, with  a  practical  knowlege  of  the  elementary  prin- 
ciples of  engineering.     I  have  noticed,  as  I  have  no  doubt 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  41 

many  of  you  have,  that  some  surveyors  of  highways  seem 
to  accomplish  double  the  real  improvement  that  others  do 
with  the  same  expense.  We  should  endeavor  to  place  at 
the  head  of  this  department  the  most  skillful,  experi- 
enced, and  energetic  men.  I  believe  that  most  of  our 
highway  surveyors  the  past  season  have  been  faithful, 
and  rendered  a  good  account  of  the  money  entrusted 
with  them  to  expend.  What  perhaps  speaks  more  in 
their  favor,  is  the  fact  that  the  city  had  no  claims  (except 
of  a  trifling  character)  presented  for  damages  caused  by 
defects  in  streets  and  highways,  during  the  last  year. 

Much  expense  has  been  saved  in  District  No.  2  (em- 
bracing the  city  proper)  by  employing  the  teams  and  men 
at  the  city  farm,  in  removing  the  manure,  rubbish,  and 
filth  accumulating  in  the  streets,  to  the  farm,  which  has 
been  a  source  of  great  benefit  to  that  department.  The 
same  course  ought  to  be  continued  hereafter. 

Elm  street  is,  and,  for  aught  we  can  now  see,  must 
continue  to  be,  our  principal  street  of  business.  Upon  it 
our  public  buildings,  hotels,  stores,  warehouses,  and  places 
of  public  resort  are  for  the  most  part  located,  and  it  may 
be  presumed  that  in  its  appearance  and  condition  our  citi- 
zens are  more  interested  than  in  any  other.  It  has  been 
the  aim  to  keep  it  in  as  good  condition  as  possible ;  but 
owing  to  the  very  great  amount  of  passage  by  vehicles 
through  this  thoroughfare,  it  is  at  times  quite  unpleasant 
for  pedestrians  in  crossing  the  same.  I  see  no  way  in 
which  it  can  be  much  improved,  from  its  present  condi- 
tion, except  In'  paving ;  and  in  order  to  try  the  experi- 
ment, I  would  recommend  that  a  part  of  the  appropria- 
tions for  liigliways  in  tliis  district,  the  present  year,  be 
expended  in  paving  a  })art  of  it ;  and  if  it  proves  satisfac- 
tory, the  system  l)e  continued  from  year  to  year,  as  the 
city  can  afibrd,  until  the  whole  is  completed.  I  am  of 
opinion  that  the  appro})riations  for  the  repairs  of  high- 


42  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

ways  the  present  year  need  not  be  much  larger  than  that 
of  last  3'ear,  provided  the  money  be  entrusted  in  the 
hands  of  proper  men  to  expend.  I  ought  not  to  forget  to 
mention  that  several  stone  crossings  are  now  very  much 
needed  on  many  of  our  streets.  Last  year  there  were 
constructed,  by  special  appropriation,  an  arch  bridge  at 
the  lower  end  of  Elm  street,  two  bridges  in  District  ISTo. 
4,  and  two  in  District  No.  9,  in  place  of  those  destroyed 
by  the  spring  freshet,  which  are  all  of  a  substantial  char- 
acter, and  will  not  probably  require  rebuilding  for  many 
years. 

In  our  city  the  construction  of  sidewalks  has  been  con- 
sidered as  much  a  matter  of  individual  undertaking  as 
the  building  of  their  private  dwellings,  and  if  all  would 
do  what  many  have  done  in  this  respect,  no  action  would 
be  necessary  on  the  part  of  the  city.  During  the  last 
J  ear  individuals  have  done  much  to  supph'  walks  on 
their  abutting  estates,  and  the  city  has  endeavored  to  en- 
courage this  imyjrovement  by  furnishing  gravel,  when  the 
former  have  been  willing  to  furnish  edge-stones  and  set 
them.  Some  further  action  on  the  part  of  tlie  city  will 
be  necessary  to  supply  this  great  convenience.  The  pro- 
prietor who  is  not  willing  to  construct  comfortable  walks 
bordering  his  i>remises,  equaHy  opposes  his  own  interest 
and  that  of  the  public. 

One  of  tlie  most  difhcult  subjects  which  will  claim  ^-our 
attention,  will  be  the  numerous  a})plieations  for  new 
highways.  Tlie  law  does  not  allow  the  constituted  au- 
thorities to  lay  out  a  liighway,  unless  the  public  good  re- 
quires it  enough  to  justify  tliem  in  taxing  every  individ- 
ual in  the  city,  liable  to  be  taxed,  with  his  })roportion  of 
building  and  maintaining  tlie  same.  Every  new  high- 
way asked  for  is  generally  su})posed  by  the  petitioners  to 
be  required  by  the  jiublic,  while  in  many  instances  they 
are  the  only  part  of  the  pul)lic  of  that  opinion.     It  will  be 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  43 

for  you,  gentlemen,  to  decide  upon  the  merits  of  these 
applications,  and  to  act  upon  your  views  of  the  wants  and 
necessities  of  the  whole  public,  however  much  we  may 
wish  to  accommodate  a  part  of  our  fellow-citizens.  Al- 
though the  authority  of  laying  our  highways  devolves 
upon  the  ma3'or  and  aldermen,  it  has  been  the  practice  to 
refer  all  petitions  of  that  kind,  first,  to  a  joint  committee 
of  the  two  boards,  to  make  examination  and  report  their 
joint  opinions,  before  the  board  of  mayor  and  aldermen 
proceed  to  act  in  their  separate  capacity.  The  road  com- 
missioners have  laid  out  a  highway  the  past  year  in  the 
vicinity  of  Webster's  Mills,  and  ordered  the  same  to  be 
built  the  present  year ;  for  the  building  of  which,  and 
the  damages  assessed  for  land  taken  for  the  same,  an  ap- 
propriation will  be  required  of  several  thousand  dollars. 
You  are  aware  that  the  part  of  the  Amoskeag  Falls 
Bridge  belonging  to  Goffstown  has  been  destroyed,  ren- 
dering of  course  the  part  belonging  to  Manchester  im- 
passable until  theirs  shall  be  rebuilt.  The  bridge  was 
examined  last  summer  by  competent  judges,  who,  on  ac- 
count of  its  decayed  condition,  pronounced  it  unsafe  to 
remain  over  three  years  from  that  date,  }irovided  no  acci- 
dent should  befall  it.  I  would  recommend  that  an  exam- 
ination be  immediately  made  of  the  part  belonging  to 
this  city,  with  a  view  to  ascertain  whether  it  will  be  good 
policy  to  rebuild  the  same  in  connection  with  Gotlstown 
the  present  year,  rather  than  risk  it  longer  in  its  present 
condition.  Should  it  be  thought  best  to  rel)uild  the  pres- 
ent season,  an  appropriation  must  be  made  for  that  pur- 
pose, unless  you  should  decide  to  build  it  by  loan. 

The  subject  of  lighting  our  streets  has  of  late,  since  the 
introduction  of  gas  into  our  city,  engaged  the  attention  of 
our  citizens  somewhat.  The  ol)ject  is  a  very  desirable 
one,  and  if  some  plan  can  be  devised  l)y  Mhich  the  city 
can  give   its  aid  in   etfecting  it,   without  incurring  too 


44  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

great  expense,  or  causing  disaffection  in  certain  local- 
ities, I  recommend  that  an  appropriation  be  made  for 
that  purpose,  and  the  proper  arrangements  made  at  an 
early  date  for  carrying  it  into  effect. 

In  1846  and  1847  a  system  of  sewerage  was  commenced, 
by  constructing  a  brick  sewer  through  a  part  of  Elm 
street.  This  system  has  been  continued,  until  we  now 
have  a  brick  sewer  from  the  Cemetery  brook,  through 
Elm  to  Bridge  street ;  with  branches  constructed  of  brick 
through  Merrimack,  from  Elm  to  Pine  street;  through 
Pine  to  Central ;  through  Manchester,  from  Elm  to  Pine 
street ;  through  Amherst  and  Concord  streets,  from  Elm 
to  Chestnut ;  through  Bridge,  from  Elm  to  Pine.  These 
branches  have  been  extended  by  chestnut  plank  sewers 
as  follows  :  through  Laurel,  from  Pine  to  Union;  through 
Amherst  to  Pine  ;  through  Pine,  from  Amherst  to  the 
back  street  between  Concord  and  Lowell  streets ;  through 
said  back  street  from  Pine  to  Union ;  through  Union, 
from  said  back  street  to  High  street ;  through  Bridge, 
from  Pine  to  Union  street;  through  Union,  from  Bridge 
to  Orange  street;  and  through  Pearl,  from  Union  to  Pine. 
There  is  also  a  plank  sewer  extending  from  Hanover 
square  through  Walnut  to  Lowell  street.  We  have  also 
a  brick  sewer  conveying  the  water  from  Hanover  square 
through  Hanover  and  Chestnut  streets,  to  Merrimack  and 
Concord  squares.  The  sudden  flow  of  water  a  few  weeks 
since,  completely  tilling  the  Elm-street  sewer  for  a  short 
time,  demonstrated  the  fact  that  it  is  not  of  sutHcient 
capacity  to  carry  all  the  water  that  will  of  necessity  be 
sent  into  it  in  a  few  years,  as  its  branches  are  extended, 
unless  other  means  of  conveyance  for  a  part  of  the  water 
accumulating  on  the  streets  leading  from  Elm  street,  is 
provided.  Our  system  of  sewerage  is  now  so  well  ex- 
tended, that  small  annual  appropriations  will  serve  to 
keep  our  city  well  drained.    A  small  sewer  is  now  needed 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  45 

through  the  back  street,  on  the  east  side  of  Ehn  street, 
and  short  sewers  in  some  other  localities. 

The  proper  support  of  the  fire  department  of  our  city 
must  of  necessity  involve  no  inconsiderable  expense, 
but  it  is  so  very  essential,  that  no  reasonable  amount 
ought  to  be  withheld  for  its  maintenance,  especially  when 
so  efiicient  and  complete  as  ours  is  at  present.  The  ser- 
vices of  the  members  are  often  arduous,  and  subject  them 
to  serious  exposures, — from  the  nature  of  their  services, 
the  amount  of  them  cannot  be  foreseen,  or  even  estimated, 
with  any  degree  of  accuracy.  I  believe  the  department 
has  been  conducted  by  the  intelligent  board  of  engineers, 
the  last  year,  as  economically  as  possible,  without  impair- 
ing its  efficiency,  and  with  praiseworthy  discretion.  The 
department  has  been  increased  the  past  year,  by  adding 
Niagara  Engine  No.  2,  with  a  company  of  fifty  men,  and 
also  a  hose  company  attached,  of  twenty-five  men.  It 
now  consists  of  six  first-class  engines  with  companies  of 
fifty  men  each,  one  hook  and  ladder  company  and  one 
hose  company  of  forty  men  each,  and  one  hose  company 
attached  to  Niagara  engine,  above  named,  all  with  a  good 
supply  of  hose  and  necessary  appendages.  This  force  it 
is  believed  will  be  sufiicient  for  many  years  to  come. 
The  companies  have  good  accommodations  as  to  houses, 
those  on  the  west  of  Elm  street  being  furnished  by  the 
manufacturing  companies. 

The  excellent  condition  in  which  the  companies  keep 
their  machines  and  all  of  their  attachments,  their  admira- 
ble discipline,  as  well  as  their  prompt  and  efiicient  ser- 
vices, deserve  recognition.  The  appropriation  for  this 
department  the  present  year  may  be  made  without  any 
particular  expenditures  in  view,  except  the  pay  of  firemen 
and  the  construction  of  some  additional  reservoirs,  which 
are  immediately  demanded  in  certain  localities. 

The  city  council  is  often  reminded  of  things  wanted  in 


46  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

the  city,  and  it  is  proper  and  well  that  it  should  so  be,  — 
by  suggestions  from  citizens,  those  to  whom  the  power  to 
act  is  delegated,  may  often  be  led  to  adopt  measures  con- 
ducive to  the  prosperity  of  the  city. 

The  subject  of  supplying  our  city  with  water  has  been 
before  the  city  council  the  last  year,  and  discussed  with- 
out arriving  at  any  definite  plan.  The  introduction  of 
an  abundance  of  pure  water  into  our  city  would  be  ex- 
ceedingly desirable,  not  only  for  domestic  uses,  but  as 
security  from  iire.  Its  supply  has  ever  been  deemed  of 
paramount  importance  to  the  health,  cleanliness,  security, 
and  comfort  of  populous  communities.  The  time  will 
come  when  such  a  work  will  be  accomplished  in  our  city, 
but  projects  of  this  kind  generally  reach  maturity  by  slow 
advances.  It  will  be  wise  foresight  for  you  to  give  this 
subject  attention,  to  ascertain  and  determine  whether  the 
time  has  now  arrived  when  our  city  should  undertake 
such  an  enterprise.  It  may  be  thought  best  to  leave  it  to 
be  accomplished  by  individual  or  corporate  enterprise. 
A  difference  of  opinion  in  relation  to  this  important  sub- 
ject will  probably  exist. 

In  raising  money  for  the  ordinary  expenses  of  our  city, 
it  is  the  duty  of  the  city  council  to  take  into  considera- 
tion its  wants,  and  what  the  public  good  requires,  and  act 
accordingly.  But  when  projects  of  extensive  public  pol- 
icy, involving  heavy  expense  to  the  city  and  an  increase 
of  the  debt,  are  proposed,  it  will  be  your  duty  to  move 
with  great  caution. 

The  city  marshal  and  his  assistant,  and  oiUcers  under 
them,  have,  I  believe,  been  faithful  in  their  respective 
offices  the  past  year,  and  the  peace  and  good  order  of  our 
city  has  been  signally  maintained.  An  ordinance  has 
lately  been  passed  Ijy  your  predecessors  requiring  all  fees 
received  by  any  members  of  the  police  department  to  be 
paid  over  to  the  city,  relieving  them  from  any  pecuniary 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  47 

inducement  to  make  improper  arrests,  and  also  from  the 
liability  of  being  unjustly  accused  of  so  doing. 

It  has  become  apparent,  after  six  years'  experience,  that 
more  ample  accommodations  are  required  for  the  city 
government.  The  mayor  and  city  clerk  are  obliged  to 
occupy  the  aldermen's  room  in  common  with  that  board, 
and  have  no  other  place  for  the  daily  transaction  of  pub- 
lic business,  which  is  inconvenient  as  it  is  inappropriate  ; 
and  what  is  still  worse,  there  is  no  safe  connected  with 
this  room  in  which  to  deposit  the  records  of  the  city.  I 
would  therefore  recommend  that  a  committee  be  ap- 
pointed to  make  examination,  to  ascertain  if  apartments 
for  all  these  purposes,  as  well  as  an  office  for  the  city 
marshal  and  police  court,  cannot  l)e  provided  in  the  city 
hall,  without  injury  to  the  public  hall,  and  at  a  small 
expense.  It  has  been  suggested  by  men  competent  of 
judging  in  such  matters,  that  such  an  arrangement  could 
be  made  at  an  expense,  the  interest  of  which  would  not 
exceed  the  amount  now  annually  paid  for  rent  of  city 
marshal  and  police  court  offices.  I  have  said  this  much, 
more  for  the  purpose  of  calling  your  attention  to  the  sub- 
ject, than  because  I  have  a  decided  opinion  what  will  be 
the  best  arrangement  that  can  l)e  made.  It  is  important 
that  no  permanent  change  should  hastily  be  made.  Far 
better  to  suffix*  temporary  inconvenience,  than  to  enter 
into  any  expenditure  of  money  that  would  not  answer  a 
satisfactory  purpose.  I  will  here  add,  that  the  })rovision 
of  our  charter,  giving  our  citizens  access  to  the  meetings 
of  our  city  council,  is  defeated  by  its  limited  acconnnoda- 
tions.  The  city  hall  will  soon  require,  at  all  events, 
some  outlay. 

The  attention  of  the  city  council  was  last  year  called 
to  the  subject  of  rents  of  the  stores  under  the  city  hall ; 
and  after  patient  examination,  the)-  became  satisfied  that 
thev    were    much   lower    than    their  real    value ;  —  tliev 


48  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

therefore  passed  a  resolution  the  1st  of  October,  advan- 
cing the  rent  somewhat  from  Jan.  1,  1853,  and  gave  notice 
of  the  same  to  all  the  present  occupants,  giving  them  the 
privilege  of  retaining  them  at  the  advanced  rent.  They 
all  accepted,  and  paid  the  rents  accordingly,  with  three 
exceptions.  These  three,  when  presented  with  their  bills 
of  rent,  Jan.  1,  refused  to  pay  the  same.  It  will  be  for 
you  to  direct  what  course  shall  be  pursued  with  those 
who  have  refused  to  pay  rent,  thus  established. 

It  would  appear  from  the  report  of  the  committee  on 
the  cemetery,  that  the  income  arising  from  the  sale  of 
lots  will  be  amply  sufficient  to  liquidate  all  the  necessary 
expenses  in  maintaining  it  in  its  present  beauty,  order,  and 
convenience,  as  the  resting-place  of  our  departed  relatives 
and  friends,  and  to  make  such  changes  and  improvements 
as  in  time  shall  be  demanded.  At  the  time  this  by  nature 
beautiful,  and  now  by  association  doubly  interesting,  val- 
ley was  given  to  the  city  by  the  Amoskeag  Company,  it 
was  considered  so  far  removed  from  our  city  proper,  as  to 
render  it  quite  improbable  that  its  silence  would  ever  be 
disturbed  by  the  din  and  noise  arising  from  the  usual 
avocations  of  life  in  our  places  of  business  ;  but  a  quarter 
of  a  century  has  not  passed,  and  we  find  our  city  already 
80  far  extended  south,  as  to  bring  the  abodes  of  the  living 
and  the  dead  in  close  proximit}' ;  and  it  requires  no  pro- 
phetic vision  to  see  that  before  another  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury shall  be  numbered  with  years  past,  that  instead  of 
its  location  being  upon  the  southern  verge  of  the  city,  it 
will  in  all  probability  become  near  its  center,  and  in  time 
there  will  no  doubt  arise  the  question  of  the  sanitary  in- 
fluence of  such  a  state  of  things.  Medical  science  and 
enlightened  discrimination  have  caused  an  increased  in- 
terest to  be  thrown  around  the  abode  of  the  dead.  Your 
attention  is  not  called  to  this  matter,  gentlemen,  in  order 
to  elicit  action  so  much,  at  this  time,  as  to  leave  it  re- 
corded that  we  were  not  unmindful  of  the  future. 


mayor's  second  inaugural  address.  49 

Our  commons  and  squares,  so  liberally  granted  us  by 
the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Company,  should  annually 
receive  our  care  and  attention,  and  the  improvements 
which  have  been  commenced,  continued.  An  appropria- 
tion will  be  needed  the  present  year  to  complete  the 
fencing  and  grading  of  Hanover  square,  and  for  some 
additional  improvements  of  the  other  commons.  I  am 
informed  by  the  agent  of  the  Amoskeag  Manufacturing 
Company,  that  said  company  are  willing  to  extend  the 
time  allowed  the  city  to  build  iron  fences  around  Concord 
and  Merrimack  squares,  to  such  time  as  shall  be  for  the 
interest  of  the  city  to  build  the  same,  provided  the  present 
fences  are  kept  in  good  condition,  and  such  improvements 
made  as  the  city  can  from  time  to  time  aiFord. 

The  overseers  of  the  poor  and  city  physician,  of  the 
past  year,  deserve  much  credit  for  the  fidelity  and  pru- 
dence with  which  they  have  discharged  their  trusts.  The 
poor  have  been  well  and  kindly  cared  for,  and  yet  with 
small  expense  to  the  city.  Our  whole  duty  to  the  poor  is 
not  in  relieving  their  immediate  and  pressing  necessities, 
but  often  more  in  teaching  them  habits  of  temperance, 
industry,  and  economy,  and  encouraging  self-reliance.  A 
system  of  improvements  on  the  city  farm  has  been  com- 
menced, which  ought  to  be  carried  forward  from  year  to 
year.  Measures  have  been  taken  to  secure  the  right  of 
the  city  to  that  part  of  the  Davis  farm  claimed  by  other 
parties. 

In  the  address  which  I  had  the  honor  to  deliver  to  the 
city  council  at  the  commencement  of  the  last  year,  our 
system  of  collecting  taxes  was  adverted  to  as  needing  im- 
provement. I  am  happy  to  be  able  to  state  that  a  decided 
improvement  in  this  important  department  has  taken 
place,  and  that  during  no  year  since  the  first  organization 
of  our  city  government,  have  the  taxes  been  so  promptly 
and  closely  collected  as  during  this  last  year,  as  you  will 


60  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

see  by  referring  to  our  annual  reports.  There  is  at  the 
present  time  one  thousand  dollars  more  due  from  the  col- 
lector of  1850,  than  from  the  collector  of  last  year.  It  is 
hoped  that  there  may  be  a  still  greater  improvement  in 
this  respect  the  year  to  come. 

You  will  observe,  in  making  the  appropriations,  that 
the  expenses  of  our  city  are  not  always  necessarily  the 
result  of  the  action  of  the  city  council,  but  are  sometimes 
beyond  their  control :  as,  for  instance,  the  State  and 
county  tax,  which  amounts  this  year  to  about  $12,000  ; 
the  interest  on  the  city  debt,  amounting  to  $6,000  ;  the 
expenses  of  building  new  highways  laid  out  by  the  road 
commissioners,  and  schoolhouse  taxes  authorized  by  school 
districts. 

I  cannot  feel  at  liberty  to  conclude  this  communication 
without  invoking  your  attention,  and  through  you,  that 
of  our  citizens  generally,  to  the  subject  of  a  public  li- 
brary. The  advantages  of  such  an  institution  will  not  be 
denied,  nor  need  they  be  enumerated.  As  a  place  of 
resort  for  young  men,  its  influence  cannot  be  overesti- 
mated. As  the  laws  of  the  State  now  authorize  towns  to 
raise  money  to  be  expended  for  public  libraries,  I  hope 
you  will  consider  whether  the  public  good  will  justify  or 
require  an  appropriation  by  you  for  so  commendable  an 
object. 

I  confidently  presume,  gentlemen,  upon  the  same  cour- 
tesy and  harmony  in  our  proceedings  that  characterized 
the  two  brandies  of  the  city  government  the  year  past ; 
and  shall  hope  that  our  influence  and  acts  will  serve  to 
promote  the  moral  and  general  welfare  of  our  city,  to 
which  end  I  bespeak  those  providential  aids  which  will 
not  lead  us  amiss. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

A   VIGILANT    MAYOR. 

Mayor  Smyth  was  prominent,  during  his  second  term 
of  office,  in  securing  the  annexation  of  the  villages  of  Pis- 
cataquog  and  Amoskeag,  part  of  the  towns  of  Bedford 
and  GofFstown  respectively,  to  Manchester.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  these  villages  were  anxious  to  be  incorporated 
within  the  city  limits,  but  the  old  townsmen  strenuously 
opposed  letting  them  go,  and  would  have  prevented  the 
passage  of  the  act  of  annexation  had  it  not  been  for  the 
mayor's  personal  exertions  with  the  legislature,  which 
were  crowned  with  success. 

It  has  been  seen  that  Mayor  Smyth  calls  attention  to 
the  subject  of  a  public  library.  While  all  now  recognize 
its  importance,  the  recommendation  was  very  considera- 
bly in  advance  of  public  sentiment,  and  was  advocated  by 
only  a  few  citizens,  among  whom  the  late  Judge  Samuel 
D.  Bell  was  conspicuous.  It  proved,  however,  the  crown- 
ing act  of  the  third  year  of  his  mayoralty,  and  will  ever 
remain  as  an  honorable  token  of  the  wise  policy  he  ad- 
vised. The  "  Manchester  Atheneurn,"  a  private  corpora- 
tion for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  a  library,  reading- 
room,  and  museum,  was  in  a  flourishing  condition,  having 
about  four  thousand  volumes  on  its  shelves,  and  many 
valuable  documents  and  aboriginal  relics  in  its  possession. 
The  members  of  this  corporation  entered  into  a  contract 
with  the  city,  by  virtue  of  which  all  its  property  was  sur- 
rendered, on  condition  that  the  city  should  appropriate 
31,000  annually  for  the  purchase  of  books  and  periodi- 
cals,  and  pay  the  running  expenses.     Members  of  the 


62  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Atheneum,  however,  retained  their  right  to  take  books 
on  loan  wherever  they  might  live. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  at  this  time  Manchester 
was  a  city  of  working  people,  mostly  gathered  in  from  the 
towns  around,  and  more  concerned  to  keep  taxes  down 
than  to  cultivate  literature.  The  affair,  however,  was  so 
well  managed  that  from  the  time  Mayor  Smyth  affixed 
his  signature  'with  the  broad  seal  of  the  city  to  the  con- 
tract, until  the  present  time,  there  has  been  no  serious 
fault  found,  but  increasing  satisfaction.  A  few  years 
since  a  $30,000  building  was  erected  to  accommodate  the 
library,  to  which  a  spacious  wing  liaB  recently  been  added. 

In  March,  1854,  Alayor  Smyth  was  for  the  third  time 
re-elected,  and  by  an  increased  majority.  Following  will 
be  found  the  mayor's  third  annual  address. 

Gentlemen  of  the  City  Council  : 

I  again  assume  the  important  trusts  committed  to  me 
with  so  much  unanimity  by  my  fellow-citizens,  fully 
appreciating  the  responsibilities  which  they  involve. 

The  experience  of  the  two  past  years  has  plainly  taught 
me  that  the  duties  devolving  upon  the  office  of  mayor  of 
this  city  are  arduous,  and  require  his  entire  personal  atten- 
tion in  their  proper  discharge.  When  I  consider  that 
upon  their  faithful  performance  the  present  and  future 
welfare  of  our  growing  city  may  in  a  measure  depend,  as 
well  as  the  comfort  and  happiness  of  every  citizen,  when 
I  reflect  that  every  official  act  may  be  fraught  with  good 
or  evil  to  our  whole  community,  I  confess  a  distrust  in 
my  ability  to  meet  all  the  requirements  resting  upon  me. 

During  the  past  year  our  city  has  encountered  no  un- 
usual calamity,  but  has  been  highly  prospered  in  its  busi- 
ness relations,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  general  health, 
peace,  and  security,  as  well  as  in  the  benefits  of  moral 
and  local  institutions  creditable  to  any  community.  For 
all  these  blessings  we  have  cause  for  profound  gratitude. 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  53 

I  do  not,  gentlemen,  propose  to  discuss,  at  this  time, 
subjects  which  have  occupied  portions  of  former  ad- 
dresses, as  they  now  constitute  a  part  of  the  city  docu- 
ments, and  can  be  referred  to,  if  desired. 

"We  have  been  appointed  to  the  stations  by  us  now  as- 
sumed, at  an  exceedingly  interesting  period  in  the  history 
of  this  city ;  and  I  may  be  permitted  to  say  that  there  has 
been  no  time  since  we  received  our  charter  when  those 
having  in  charge  its  municipal  affairs  should  act  with 
more  prudence  and  care,  or  with  more  energy  and 
efficiency. 

Business  of  every  kind  is  promising  and  productive; 
our  population  and  trade  are  rapidly  increasing.  Manu- 
factories are  multiplying ;  our  mechanical  enterprises  are 
receiving  fresh  impulses,  new  branches  being  continually 
added  to  our  industry.  The  most  active  preparations  are 
in  progress  for  the  erection  of  buildings,  exceeding  in 
value  and  number  the  improvement  of  any  past  year,  and 
real  estate  is  rapidly  increasing  in  value.  What  may  be 
the  position  which  Manchester  is  destined  to  assume,  and 
what  may  be  the  extent  of  her  population,  I  will  not 
undertake  to  anticipate.  But  may  we  not  with  confidence 
rely  upon  a  continued  increase  of  our  trade,  manufactures, 
and  business,  to  such  an  extent  as  to  warrant  us  in  in- 
dulging the  most  cheering  hopes  of  the  future  ? 

One  feature  in  our  business  prosperity  has  been  noticed 
with  no  little  pleasure,  and  that  is,  the  numerous  indi- 
vidual enterprises  commenced  during  the  last  year.  Our 
large  manufacturing  companies  are,  and  will  ever  be,  the 
mainspring  of  the  general  business  of  our  city ;  but  whilst 
this  is  the  case,  and  although  many  of  our  oldest  and  best 
citizens  are  now  connected  with  them,  it  is  nevertheless 
true  that  the  nature  of  this  business  has  a  tendency  to 
give  us  a  somewhat  fluctuating  population,  which  is  not 
the  case  with  smaller  and  individual  enterprises ;  and  this 


54  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

consideration  alone  should  cause  us  to  second,  as  citizens, 
every  movement  calculated  to  give  us  permanency.  For 
this  direction  imparted  to  our  industrial  affairs,  we  are 
indebted,  in  no  small  degree,  to  the  liberal  policy  pursued 
by  the  Amoskeag  Company. 

It  is  a  part  of  wisdom  and  duty  to  so  far  extend  our 
views  as  to  make  some  pro\dsion  for  the  future  wants  of  a 
place  which  must  become  one  of  the  largest  inland  cities 
in  New  England,  as  far  as  it  is  possible  so  to  do,  without 
imposing  impolitic  and  unjust  burdens  upon  the  present. 

I  congratulate  you,  gentlemen,  on  finding  improved 
accommodations  in  the  apartments  for  the  transaction  of 
public  business.  Much  inconvenience  has  heretofore  been 
experienced  in  this  respect.  Your  predecessors  have  pre- 
pared the  present  rooms  Avith  the  opinion  that  they  will 
answer  the  present  purposes  of  the  city,  although  not  so 
commodious  as  will  be  required  at  some  future  day.  The 
boards  of  mayor  and  aldermen,  common  council,  over- 
seers of  the  poor,  school  committee,  assessors,  engineers, 
the  city  clerk,  and  city  marshal,  can  now  be  accommo- 
dated in  convenient  proximity.  The  cost  of  this  arrange- 
ment has  been  trifling  compared  to  the  benefits  to  be 
derived,  and  will  relieve  the  city  from  the  expense  here- 
tofore incurred  for  rent  of  oflice  for  the  city  marshal  and 
police. 

It  becomes  my  duty,  as  the  chief  executive  oflicer  of 
the  city,  to  direct  your  attention  to  such  measures  as  may 
seem  necessary  for  its  welfare ;  but  our  city  charter  must 
be  your  text-book,  to  which  you  will  need  continually  to 
refer. 

During  the  past  year  the  ordinances  which  have  been 
passed  from  time  to  time  since  our  city  was  organized, 
have  been,  with  much  care  and  labor,  revised  and  consol- 
idated in  chapters,  properly  indexed,  and  printed  with 
the  charter  and  its  amendments.     These  vou  will  have 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  65 

before  you  in  a  convenient  form,  and  it  will  be  your 
duty  to  examine  the  same  and  make  such  improvements 
or  additions  as  experience  may  require. 

By  an  act  of  the  last  legislature,  the  territory  of  our 
city  has  been  increased  by  the  annexation  of  what  now 
constitutes  wards  seven  and  eight.  These  wards  have 
been  organized,  and  are  now  represented  in  this  council. 
It  will  be  necessary  for  you  to  give  your  earliest  attention 
to  some  of  their  immediate  wants.  The  division  of  the 
same  into  proper  school  and  highway  districts  should  be 
made  without  delay,  and  also  their  boundaries  perma- 
nently marked.  By  the  act  of  annexation,  the  city  is  to 
assume  "  such  proportion  of  the  existing  debts  of  said 
towns  —  deducting  therefrom  the  amount  of  money  then 
raised,  or  directed  to  be  raised,  by  either  of  said  towns, 
to  be  applied  towards  the  liquidation  of  the  same  —  as 
the  inventory  of  the  inhabitants  of  said  towns,  in  the  ter- 
ritory so  severed  and  annexed,  last  made,  bears  to  the 
whole  amount  of  inventory  last  made,  in  each  of  said 
towns."  Measures  should  be  immediately  taken  to  as- 
certain the  exact  amount  of  our  indebtedness  to  these 
towns,  in  this  relation,  by  appointing  a  committee  to 
make  examination  and  eftect  a  just  settlement. 

Directly  after  this  territory  became  a  part  of  Manches- 
ter (Sept.  15,  1853),  steps  were  taken  to  rebuild  that  part 
of  the  Amoskeag  Falls  Bridge,  formerly  within  the  town 
of  Goffstown,  whicli  that  town  had  neglected  to  do,  at  the 
proper  season.  Upon  examination  it  was  decided  that 
the  entire  bridge  should  be  rebuilt,  as  that  part  not  de- 
stroyed had  so  far  decayed  as  to  be  unsafe  for  travel. 
The  season  had  so  far  advanced  as  to  render  the  con- 
struction of  the  same  entirely  impracticable  that  year ; 
but  the  stone  was  prepared  for  the  necessary  piers,  in 
contemplation  of  building  them  in  the  autumn,  to  be  in 
readiness  to  receive  the  bridge  the  present  season.     The 


56  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

state  of  the  river  has,  as  yet,  prevented  that  from  being 
accomplished.  The  committee  having  in  charge  this 
work,  have  completed  contracts  for  the  materials  and 
construction  of  a  substantial  bridge,  with  all  possible  de- 
spatch. It  is  hoped  that  this  important  thoroughfare,  of 
which  our  citizens  have  been  so  long  deprived,  will  be 
opened  to  the  public  again  by  the  the  1st  of  September, 
at  least. 

The  annual  order  of  appropriations  for  the  current  fis- 
cal year,  the  second  month  of  which  has  commenced,  will 
claim  your  earliest  attention.  A  full  and  detailed  ac- 
count of  the  receipts  and  expenditures  of  the  last  year, 
with  such  statistical  information  in  relation  to  the  city 
debt,  and  the  general  afiairs  of  the  city,  as  you  may  re- 
quire, will  be  found  in  the  annual  report  of  the  commit- 
tee on  finance.  During  the  last  year,  it  will  be  seen  that 
all  the  expenditures  were  kept  within  the  appropriations, 
which  rule  should  never  be  departed  from. 

A  considerate  view  of  our  present  condition  and  pros- 
pects will  prompt  you  to  grant  cheerfully  such  appropria- 
tions for  the  current  year  as  our  present  wants  may 
require,  and  to  make  such  provision  for  the  future  as  a 
liberal  policy  and  a  prudent  forecast  may  determine. 

Many  improvements  have  been  eftected  in  our  city 
since  its  organization,  such  as  the  building  and  repairing 
of  highways,  the  construction  of  sewers  and  sidewalks, 
improvement  of  the  public  squares,  planting  of  shade 
trees,  lighting  of  the  streets,  and  providing  means  for  the 
extinguishing  of  fires.  Many  other  things,  which  will 
present  themselves  to  you  in  the  discharge  of  your  duties, 
are  continually  required  to  keep  pace  with  the  increasing 
wants  of  our  community. 

The  present  debt,  which  has  been  decreased  somewhat 
for  several  years  past,  ought  never  to  be  increased,  except 
for  permanent  improvements  that  will  be  of  correspond- 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  57 

ing  value  to  those  who  may  have  the  debt  to  pay.  It  is 
no  more  than  justice  that  the  burden  of  such  improve- 
ments should  be  shared  between  ourselves  and  those  who 
enjoy  their  benefit  hereafter. 

It  will  be  necessary  at  an  early  day  to  make  provision 
for  the  payment  of  the  expense  of  the  contemplated  new 
bridge,  and  the  city's  proportion  of  the  Bedford  and 
Goffstown  debt.  I  think  it  will  not  be  good  policy  to 
raise  all  of  the  amount  the  present  year  by  taxation,  and 
would,  therefore,  recommend  that  six  per  cent  coupon 
stock  be  issued,  on  such  time  as  may  be  thought  advis- 
able, for  a  part  of  it  at  least.  The  credit  of  the  city  now 
stands  high,  and  money  can  easily  be  obtained  on  long 
time  on  better  terms  than  for  short  periods,  and  proposi- 
tions are  now  made  to  take  all  the  stock  the  city  may 
wish  to  issue  as  above,  at  a  premium. 

I  am  not  aware  of  the  necessity  of  any  appropriation 
but  for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  the  city.  Some  of  the 
departments  will  need  increased  provision  for  their  suit- 
able support. 

In  former  communications  to  the  city  council,  it  has 
been  my  aim  to  give  prominence  to  the  subject  of  our 
schools,  believing  it  to  l)e  the  most  important  interest,  as 
well  as  the  one  requiring  the  largest  and  most  liberal 
provision  for  its  maintenance.  And  the  fact  that  they 
have  been  improved  is  one  calculated  to  reflect  credit 
upon  those  having  them  in  charge,  and  the  fostering  care 
of  the  council.  I  have  endeavored,  during  the  last  year 
in  particular,  to  make  myself  better  acquainted  than 
before  with  their  condition  and  wants ;  and  although 
inclined  to  the  opinion  that  each  successive  year  leaves 
them  in  a  better  condition  than  before,  I  am  yet  confi- 
dent that,  as  a  whole,  our  schools  do  not  come  up  to  that 
point  of  excellence  which  it  is  desirable  they  should 
reach.  Our  citizens  have  ever  manifested  a  liberal 
spirit  in  willingly  taxing  themselves  a  reasonable  amount 


58  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

for  their  support.  Professional  teachers,  so  far  as  they 
could  be  obtained,  I  am  glad  to  know,  have  been  em- 
ployed in  the  more  advanced  and  no  less  important  juve- 
nile and  primary  schools,  and  I  am  pleased  to  have  the 
opportunity  to  say  in  so  public  a  manner,  that  I  be- 
lieve that  our  schools,  as  a  whole,  were  never  presided 
over  by  a  superior  class  of  teachers ;  and  I  see  no  good 
reason  why  they  should  not  stand  as  high  as  those  of  any 
similarly  situated  place.  I  am  confident  that  one  draw- 
back upon  their  advancement  may  be  attributed  to  the 
want  of  a  more  systematic  mode  of  intercourse  between 
our  school  committee  and  board  of  teachers,  and  the 
schools  under  their  care.  Without  such  regularity  and 
system,  liberal  appropriations,  intelligent  and  efficient 
teachers,  improved  and  commodious  houses,  will  not  give 
the  desired  result.  I  hope,  gentlemen,  that  this  subject 
will  receive  your  earliest  and  constant  attention,  and  so 
far  as  anything  can  be  accomplished  to  promote  their  in- 
terest and  welfare,  it  will  cheerfully  be  done.  You  are 
aware  that  it  was  recommended  to  your  predecessors  to 
petition  the  State  legislature  for  the  passage  of  an  act 
granting  the  liberty  to  consolidate  our  school  districts 
into  one  ;  also,  to  appoint  a  city  school  commissioner,  to 
have  the  general  charge  of  all  the  schools  ;  and  notwith- 
standing the  passage  of  such  an  act  granting  all  that  was 
asked,  I  regret  to  say  that  those  propositions  were 
coupled  in  a  bill  with  other  and  entirely  foreign  subjects. 
This  act,  on  being  submitted  to  the  people,  failed,  as  a 
whole,  to  meet  with  favor,  and  was  therefore  very  prop- 
erly rejected.  I  would  again  suggest,  for  the  reasons  be- 
fore assigned,  that  etlbrts  be  made  to  procure  tlie  passage 
of  such  an  act  disconnected  with  its  former  and  all  other 
objectionable  features. 

A  small  appropriation  was  made  the  past  year  for  the 
support  of  a  free  evening  school,  which  was  deemed  by 
many,  at  the  time,  injudicious  ;  but  the  school  has  more 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  59 

than  realized  the  expectations  of  its  most  sanguine 
friends,  and  should,  I  think,  be  continued  through  such 
seasons  of  the  year  as  may  be  found  desirable.  The 
school  committee  have  manifested  a  commendable  zeal  in 
the  prosperity  of  this  school,  and  it  is  believed  that 
money  thus  expended  is  as  useful  in  its  results  as  any 
part  of  the  public  funds  devoted  to  educational  purposes. 
At  the  commencement  of  the  last  year,  in  my  opening 
address,  the  attention  of  the  council  was  called  to  the 
subject  of  a  public  librar}-,  which  subject  w^as  not  acted 
upon  until  near  the  close  of  the  year,  and  not  in  time  to 
mature  any  definite  plan.  In  view  of  its  importance,  and 
the  favorable  report  of  the  committee,  giving  encourage- 
ment that  arrangements  might  be  made  with  the  "  Man- 
chester Atheneum  "  to  combine  that  with  the  city  library, 
I  feel  now  encouraged  to  bring  the  subject  again  to  your 
notice.  The  fact  that  not  only  our  young  men,  but  the 
people  at  large,  will  have  a  certain  amount  of  recreation 
and  amusement,  is  so  evident  as  to  require  no  proof;  and 
what  that  recreation  and  amusement  shall  be,  to  a  certain 
extent,  we  have  it  in  our  power  to  determine  without  dic- 
tation. I  can  hardly  conceive  of  a  more  judicious  outlay 
of  money,  than  that  which  you  may  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion to  expend  in  sustaining  a  free  public  library  and 
reading-room,  which  shall  be  open  to  all,  subject  to  good 
and  wholesome  restraints.  I  confess  myself  at  a  loss  to 
give  you  a  precise  plan  of  such  an  institution,  but  have 
no  doubt  that  wo  have  those  among  us  who  will  cheer- 
fully co-operate  in  its  detailed  arrangements,  if  suitable 
countenance  shall  be  given  the  scheme  by  our  city  gov- 
ernment. In  general  terms,  I  would  recommend  the 
appropriation  of  a  sufficient  amount  of  money  to  secure 
suitable  rooms  for  a  library,  newspaper  reading-room, 
and  conversational  room  attached,  and  for  the  p\irchase 
of  such  number  of  books,  periodicals,  and  newspapers  as 


60  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

it  may  be  thought  advisable  to  commence  the  institution 
with ;  to  have  a  board  of  directors  chosen  from  the  citi- 
zens at  large,  with  some  of  the  city  officers  ex-officio  mem- 
bers. An  institution  of  this  kind,  established  on  a  proper 
basis,  would  undoubtedly  secure  liberal  donations  from 
public-spirited  individuals. 

The  city  is  often  solicited  to  sell  lots  of  land  for  build- 
ing and  gardening  purposes  from  the  city  farms.  I 
would  submit  to  the  council  whether  it  may  not  be  good 
policy  to  lay  out  part  of  the  Da\a8  farm  (which  is  now  of 
but  little  income)  for  the  purposes  desired,  and  put  alter- 
nate lots  into  the  market  at  such  prices  as  may  be 
thought  best.  The  improvement  of  these  sections  would 
much  enhance  the  value  of  the  remainder.  I  will  ven- 
ture the  suggestion  that  with  judicious  management,  the 
two  hundred  acres  of  land  now  owned  by  the  city  will  be 
of  sufficient  value,  by  the  time  that  a  large  part  of  our 
city  debt  shall  mature,  to  nearly  or  quite  pay  the  same. 
Population  is  rapidly  tending  in  that  direction,  and  the 
beautiful  and  desirable  location  of  a  large  part  of  this 
land  will  ensure  its  demand  for  building  purposes  at 
prices  far  beyond  its  value  for  agricultural  uses ;  al- 
though, under  the  present  improved  system  of  hus- 
bandry, by  the  removal  of  the  large  quantities  of  fertiliz- 
ing materials  accumulating  in  the  streets,  to  the  Stevens 
farm,  its  productiveness  is  fast  improving. 

Gratitude  to  the  liberal  donors,  as  well  as  regard  for 
the  city's  interest,  should  prompt  us  to  beautify  and 
adorn  our  public  squares,  so  indispensable  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  the  citizens.  And  in  this  connection, 
permit  me  to  call  your  attention  to  the  fact  that  a  more 
ample  and  extended  public  ground  than  any  of  our  pres- 
ent ones,  is  beginning  to  be  required,  suitable  for  parades 
and  large  public  gatherings.  Being  sensible  that  the 
time  has  arrived  when  this  desirable  object  should  be  se- 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  61 

cured,  I  would  suggest  that  measures  be  taken  to  obtain 
from  the  Amoskeag  Company  such  proposition  as  they 
will  be  willing  to  make,  touching  this  subject.  From  the 
well-known  liberality  of  this  company  towards  our  city, 
and  from  conversations  with  their  public-spirited  agents, 
I  have  no  doubt  they  will  be  willing  and  desirous  to  aid 
any  efforts  to  still  improve  the  city  so  much  indebted  to 
them  for  its  present  beauty. 

The  lighting  of  the  streets  is  considered  in  other  cities 
not  only  a  convenience,  but  a  conservator  of  the  public 
order,  and  I  think  may  be  viewed  in  the  same  light  by 
us.  Several  lamps  were  erected  last  year  upon  Elm 
street,  and  lighted  at  the  expense  of  the  city.  A  proposi- 
tion was  also  made  to  pay  for  the  lighting  of  one  lamp  at 
the  intersection  of  any  other  streets  whenever  the  same 
should  be  furnished  by  individuals  in  the  vicinity.  A 
number  of  lamps  have  been  furnished  on  these  condi- 
tions, and  others  are  prepared  to  accept  similar  proposi- 
tions the  present  season.  It  is  hoped  that  all  persons  who 
may  be  particularly  benefited  by  this  offer  on  the  part  of 
the  city,  will  avail  themselves  of  it,  as  the  expense  of  the 
lamp  and  post  is  small  compared  with  the  permanent  cost 
of  lighting.  This  plan  has  been  pursued  with  success  in 
other  cities,  until  some  of  the  larger  have  become  able  to 
purchase  the  lamps  of  the  individuals,  and  light  the 
whole  city  at  the  public  expense,  which  it  is  presumed 
Manchester  will  be  able  to  do  at  no  distant  day. 

The  general  moral  tone  of  our  city  it  is  not  my  pur- 
pose at  this  time  and  place  to  dwell  upon.  That  we  have 
in  our  midst  those  who  are  prone  to  disregard  and  set  at 
naught  good  and  wholesome  regulations,  and  intrude 
upon  the  rights  of  the  whole,  is  a  stubborn  fact,  that  has 
ever  been,  and  will  ever  be,  apparent.  It  is  consequent 
upon  all  populous  places ;  the  same  motives  that  lead  the 
virtuous  and  law-loving  to  take  up  their  abode  in  our 


62  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

busy  city,  also  bring  to  us  those  who  are  restive  under 
restraints  and  municipal  regulations  which  aim  at  the 
public  good. 

An  efficient  police  force  will,  therefore,  ever  be  re- 
quired, and  the  appropriation  for  its  support  must  proba- 
bly increase  with  the  increase  of  our  population.  The 
decrease  of  crime  and  maintenance  of  good  order  can 
only  be  achieved  by  co-operation  of  the  city  council  and 
the  various  departments  of  police.  For  one  department 
to  destroy  the  moral  force  of  another  in  not  imposing 
judicious  restraints,  and  not  awarding  punishment  com- 
mensurate with  the  crime  committed,  has  a  tendency  to 
produce  unfounded  prejudices  against  the  faithful  and 
fearless  officer.  An  officer  should  never  captiously  inter- 
fere with  any  citizen  ;  but  where  lawless  acts  are  commit- 
ted, calling  for  his  interposition,  he  should  feel  that  he  is 
upheld  and  supported  by  every  honorable  citizen,  and  in 
particular  by  the  city  government  and  the  tribunals  of 
justice. 

The  city  marshal  and  his  assistant,  who  have  the  con- 
trol of  the  police  and  watchmen,  have  discharged  their 
duties,  as  I  believe,  judiciously  and  faithfully,  although 
laboring  under  many  embarrassments.  I  would  suggest 
to  the  council  the  propriety  of  an  investigation  into  the 
laws  establishing  and  regulating  our  police  court,  and  if 
they  should  be  found  not  commensurate  with  the  wants 
of  the  city,  recommend  that  measures  be  taken  to  pro- 
cure their  revision  or  repeal. 

Our  excellent  and  well-appointed  fire  department,  un- 
der the  direction  of  popular  and  efficient  engineers,  still 
continues  to  merit  the  fullest  confidence.  The  officers 
and  memljers  deserve  the  united  approbation  of  our  citi- 
zens. But  for  their  promptness  and  vigilance,  our  city 
might  ere  this  liave  been  the  prey  of  the  destroying  ele- 
ment.    Those  who  at  all  times  stand  ready  to  come  to 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  63 

the  rescue,  deserve  more  consideration  than  they  some- 
times receive.  I  recommend  the  department  to  your  re- 
spectful attention,  believing  the  best  interests  of  the  city 
promoted  by  furnishing  the  companies  with  comfortable 
houses,  and  means  for  keeping  their  machines  and  appa- 
ratus in  good  repair.  Our  present  system  works  so  admir- 
ably as  to  preclude  the  necessity  of  any  change.  I  am 
aware  there  are  many  complaints  of  its  expensiveness, 
but  see  no  way  to  curtail  this,  without  crippling  its  effi- 
ciency, a  result  which  I  think  no  one  would  desire. 

An  important  addition  to  the  means  for  extinguishing 
fires  was  made  the  last  year  in  the  construction  of  sub- 
stantial reservoirs  on  Pine  street,  between  Merrimack 
and  Manchester  streets,  also  on  Elm,  near  Lowell  street, 
and  providing  them,  as  also  that  at  the  city  hall,  with  a 
continuous  supply  of  Avater  from  Hanover  square.  Res- 
ervoirs will  also  be  required  in  other  parts  of  the  city  the 
present  year. 

It  is  becoming  more  and  more  apparent,  as  building  is 
extended,  that  the  main  sewer  through  Elm  street,  from 
Bridge  to  Central,  is  not  of  sufficient  capacity  to  convey 
all  the  water  brought  into  it  by  branches,  and  the  surface 
drainage,  at  times  of  sudden  and  heavy  rains.  That  part 
of  the  sewer  l)elo\v  Central  street  is  of  ample  dimensions, 
being  several  times  the  capacity  of  the  part  above.  A 
sewer  through  Pine  or  Union  streets,  connecting  with  the 
main  sewer  below  Central,  would  relieve  this  difficulty  in 
a  great  measure,  and  will  soon  be  absolutely  required. 
The  subject  of  sewerage  is  exceedingly  important  to  any 
city  in  a  sanitary  point  of  view,  and  should  receive  such 
systematic  calculation  as  will  ensure  permanent  benefit 
from  whatever  expenditure  may  be  nuide.  It  will  be  for 
you  to  consider  how  much  ought  to  be  done  in  this  de- 
partment the  present  year.  A  sewer  was  laid  the  last 
year  in  the  back  street  east  of  Elm,  from  near  Concord  to 


64  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

Manchester  street,  and  through  the  street  between  Man- 
chester and  Hanover  from  Union,  connecting  with  the 
first-named  sewer,  and  also  through  the  hack  street,  be- 
tween Park  and  Central,  from  Union  to  Chestnut  street. 

Our  streets  are  generally  in  good  repair,  but  the  grow- 
ing business  upon  them  from  year  to  year  will  make  in- 
creased appropriations  necessary  for  their  safety  and  con- 
venience. It  has  been  a  question  of  much  solicitude 
whether  it  would  be  policy  to  pave  some  of  our  principal 
streets.  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  most  frequented 
part  of  Elm  street  can  never  be  kept  in  good  condition 
in  any  other  way  than  by  paving,  and  that  a  commence- 
ment of  the  work  should  be  made  the  present  season. 
The  stone  block  pavement  is  undoubtedly  the  best,  and 
eventually  the  most  economical  for  us  to  adopt. 

That  part  of  the  road  laid  out  by  the  road  commission- 
ers in  the  autumn  of  1852,  which  is  east  of  Webster's 
Mills,  was  built  the  past  year  at  an  expense  of  about 
twelve  hundred  dollars,  including  land  awards.  It 
is  estimated  that  the  cost  of  building  the  remaining 
portion  of  this  road  will  not  be  less  than  twenty-five  hun- 
dred dollars,  without  beneliting  the  public  in  the  least, 
when  constructed,  so  far  as  I  can  discover.  The  interests 
of  the  city  and  the  public  will  justify  us  in  using  all  hon- 
orable means  to  avoid  the  building  of  the  remainder  of 
this  road. 

Concord  street  was  extended  east  to  the  city's  land  last 
autumn,  and  Elm  street  was  laid  out  north  some  distance, 
both  of  which  should  be  built  the  present  year. 

The  subject  of  laying  out  new  highways  will  claim 
much  of  your  attention.  In  connection  with  this  topic,  I 
would  suggest,  for  your  consideration,  the  propriety  of 
adopting  some  measures  to  ensure  the  building  of  con- 
venient sidewalks  of  a  uniform  construction  in  all  the 
compact  parts  of  the  city,  and  also  for  preventing  en- 
croachments upon  our  streets. 


mayor's  third  inaugural  address.  65 

It  is  the  opinion  of  many  of  our  citizens,  that  the  time 
has  arrived  when  means  should  be  adopted  for  procuring 
an  abundant  supply  of  pure  and  wholesome  water  from 
some  feasible  source,  for  the  present  and  future  wants  of 
the  city.  The  demand  for  the  realization  of  this  all-im- 
portant object  will  soon  be  irresistibly  made.  It  will  be 
within  your  province,  gentlemen,  to  carefully  consider  this 
subject,  and  decide  whether  it  is  expedient  for  the  city 
council  to  engage  in  this  project  the  present  year.  An 
act  of  the  legislature  will  be  required  to  give  us  authority. 

Ko  appropriation  will  be  demanded  for  the  cemetery, 
as  the  proceeds  from  the  sale  of  lots  are  sufficient.  It  is 
thought  that  appointing  a  part  of  the  committee  to  take 
charge  of  this  cherished  repository  of  the  dead,  from 
without  the  city  council,  would  ensure  less  frequent 
change,  which  is  certainly  a  very  desirable  object.  Allow 
me  to  suggest  the  propriety  of  preserving  this  spot  in  its 
original  beauty,  rather  than  attempting  too  many  artifi- 
cial changes. 

After  a  careful  estimate  of  the  ordinary  expenses  for 
the  coming  year,  and  considering  the  increase  of  property 
in  the  city,  it  is  believed  that  the  rate  of  taxation  may  be 
somewhat  less  than  that  of  last  year. 

There  is  sufficient  money  in  the  treasury  to  meet  all 
claims  against  the  city,  until  the  taxes  shall  be  assessed. 
Tlie  favorable  condition  of  the  treasury  is  attributable,  in 
no  small  degree,  to  the  promptness  of  our  excellent  col- 
lector,—  ^4,048.82  only  now  remaining  due  upon  his  list. 

I  have  thus  laid  before  you,  gentlemen,  the  various 
matters  supposed  to  interest  you,  on  being  inducted  into 
office,  and  so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  anticipate,  such 
objects  as  may  atfect  our  city's  welfare. 

I  have  a  consciousness  of  having  done  this,  irrespective 
of  personal  considerations,  only  so  far  as  my  acts  may 
give  me  reasons  for  regret  or  satisfaction,  as  I  look  back 


66  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

upon  this,  the  year  that  will  positively  terminate  the  rela- 
tion I  now  sustain  to  you  and  my  fellow-citizens.  I  make 
this  last  intimation  in  order  to  remove  any  and  all  mis- 
apprehension that  may  arise  during  the  year,  upon  this 
point.  I  shall  not  relax  my  efforts,  however,  in  behalf  of 
this  city  of  my  adoption  and  home,  where  center  all  my 
strong  affections,  and  shall  hope  to  receive  your  aid  and 
co-operation  in  every  measure  calculated  to  elevate  its 
character  and  promote  its  prosperity. 

I  take  this  opportunity  to  express  my  acknowledgments 
to  those  who  have  heretofore  been  associated  with  me,  for 
the  manner  in  which  my  duties  have  been  lightened  by 
their  kind  assistance. 

Permit  me  also,,  through  you,  to  own  my  obligations  to 
my  fellow-citizens,  for  their  renewed  expressions  of  con- 
fidence, and  continued  sympathy  and  aid,  in  all  my  en- 
deavors to  serve  them. 

May  that  Being  whose  counsels  are  Infinite  Wisdom, 
so  counsel  our  hearts  and  guide  our  hands,  that  we  may 
be  enabled  to  perform  all  our  duties  faithfully,  and  in 
His  fear. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION  FOR  JUVENILE  OFFENDERS. 

At  the  close  of  his  term  of  service  as  mayor,  Mr. 
Smyth  was  appointed  chairman  of  a  commission  to 
locate  and  huild  the  "  House  of  Reformation  for  Juve- 
nile Offenders."  The  late  Judge  Matthew  Harvey  and 
the  Hon.  Hosea  Eaton  were  his  associates. 

The  act  of  the  legislature  by  which  this  was  done  was 
passed  in  a  time  of  great  political  excitement.  It  was  the 
transition  period  when  the  old  Whig  party  dissolved  into 
the  Republican.  Every  act  was  criticised,  every  motive 
questioned.  It  will  not  therefore  be  surprising  to  know 
that  the  party  which  dared  undertake  to  build  a  reform 
school  was  violently  attacked,  and  that  at  the  election  fol- 
lowing the  inception  of  the  undertaking,  broadsides  were 
scattered  over  the  State,  headed,  "A  $40,000  Palace  for 
Prostitutes."  It  was  not,  however,  a  fortunate  rallying 
cry  for  the  Democratic  party.  Mr.  Smyth  took  up  the 
defense  of  the  humane  policy  of  the  State  with  vigor,  and 
made  a  plain  statement  of  all  that  had  been,  and  was 
sought  to  be,  done  in  the  first  annual  report  of  1856, 
Avliich  follows. 

To  His  Excellency  the  Governor  and  the  Honorable 
Council  : 
The  undersigned,  commissioners  under  the  resolves  of 
July  13,  1855,  entitled,  "  Resolves  for  the  purchase  of  a 
site,  and  the  erection  of  l)uildings  for  a  House  of  Refor- 
mation for  Juvenile  and  Female  Offenders  against  the 
Laws,"  respectfully  present  the  following  report. 


68  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

The  design  of  the  proposed  institution  is  the  reforma- 
tion of  juvenile  and  female  offenders  who  have  committed 
offenses  against  the  laws  of  the  State.  It  is  to  rescue 
those  from  a  felon's  doom,  who,  from  whatever  cause, 
have  commenced  a  life  which  is  leading  them  to  disgrace 
and  infamy.  It  is  to  take  those  who  would  otherwise  fill 
our  jails  and  state-prison,  and  place  them  in  an  institution 
where  they  will  be  both  morally  and  physically  trained ; 
away  from  the  vicious  influences  of  the  hardened  convict, 
where  they  will  receive  the  advantages  of  a  common- 
school  education,  and  where  all  reasonable  efforts  will  be 
made  to  prepare  them  to  earn  an  honest  livelihood,  by 
honorable  industry,  in  some  trade  or  other  respectable 
employment. 

It  is  truly  a  great  and  good  work,  worthy  the  co-opera- 
tion of  all  who  desire  the  good  of  the  community.  In 
every  town  there  are  some,  and  in  cities  many,  who  exer- 
cise no  salutary  control  over  their  children,  permitting 
them  to  grow  up  in  ignorance  and  vice,  to  fill  our  prisons 
and  alms-houses,  unless  the  State  provide  means  for  their 
rescue. 

Fortunately  for  us  we  are  not  left  to  grope  our  way  in 
doubt  upon  this  subject;  as  many  other  States  have  long 
since  established  their  reform  schools  and  houses  of  refuge 
for  juvenile  delinquents,  the  fruits  of  which  have  made 
glad  the  hearts  of  many  philanthropists,  and  encouraged 
them  in  their  efforts  for  the  best  good  of  their  children. 
Could  the  noble  army  of  young  men  and  women  now  in 
active  respectable  business,  who  have  been  saved  through 
the  instrumentality  of  these  institutions,  be  presented  to 
our  view,  the  sight  would  lead  us  to  determined  action, 
that  ISTew  Hampshire  may  speedily  unite  with  her  sister 
States  in  the  important  enterprise  of  saving  her  misguided 
sons  and  daughters  from  infamy  and  the  unhappy  fruits 
of  a  vicious  life. 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         69 

At  present  no  provision  is  made  in  this  State  for  juve- 
nile offenders  but  the  common  jail  and  state-prison. 
Within  a  few  weeks,  two  boys  of  twelve  and  thirteen 
years  of  age  have  been  committed  to  the  state-prison  in 
this  State,  where  they  are  now  more  or  less  associated 
with  adepts  in  crime ;  and  many  now  at  large  are  a 
curse  to  themselves  and  the  community  in  which  they 
reside. 

When  a  boy  is  detected  in  crime,  he  is  either  permitted 
to  continue  his  practice  of  wrong-doing,  and  not  prose- 
cuted, from  motives  of  pity  (because  there  is  no  suitable 
place  for  him),  or  he  is  arraigned,  convicted,  and  sentenced 
to  prison,  where  he  finds  no  associates  but  those  who,  like 
himself,  have  been  committed  for  crime.  His  education 
in  criminal  life,  already  commenced,  now  progresses  with 
fearful  rapidity,  until  at  length,  the  term  of  his  sentence 
having  expired,  he  leaves  the  place  of  his  confinement, — 
punished  it  is  true,  but  ripe  for  vice  wherever  he  finds  an 
opportunity.  lie  vow  feels  disgraced,  his  conscience  is 
more  seared,  and  what  little  self-respect  he  possessed  has 
vanished.  For  a  short  time  he  continues  to  disturb  the 
peace  of  the  neighborhood  in  which  he  lives,  corrupting 
the  minds  of  his  associates,  and  preparing  many  for  a 
similar  course  of  life,  and  then  again  withdraws  for  a 
short  time,  only  to  return  more  hardened.  All  this  con- 
tinues at  the  expense  of  individuals  who  suffer  from  his 
depredations,  and  the  State  that  convicts  and  supports 
him  in  prison. 

This  is  strikingly  shown  in  the  following  statement  con- 
tained in  a  letter  addressed  by  the  Rev.  J.  Carter,  chap- 
lain of  the  Liverpool  jail,  to  the  mayor  and  town  council, 
dated  April  25,  1850  :  — 

"  The  number  of  boys  now  in  custody  is  115;  of  girls, 
39 ;  of  these  a  very  large  majority  (I  am  afraid  to  say 
how  large)  have  been  brought  into  their  present  circum- 


70  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

stances  through  parental  neglect,  or  failure  of  parental 
influence ;  and  it  must  be  evident  that  neither  effort  of 
mine,  nor  any  penal  appliances,  can  ever  counteract  the 
consequences  of  these  defects,  aggravated  as  they  now 
are  by  the  contamination  of  evil  association.  Hence,  the 
expense  of  each  succeeding  imprisonment,  be  it  greater  or  less, 
which  fails  of  its  object,  is  so  much  thrown  aioay.  In  support 
of  this  statement,  suffer  me  to  invite  your  attention  to 
this  fact,  that  of  the  thirty  boys  and  of  thirty  girls,  not 
selected,  but  taken  in  order  from  the  respective  registers 
of  those  in  jail,  in  the  month  corresponding  with  the 
present  one,  in  1847,  eleven  onl}-  do  not  appear  to  have 
been  recommitted,  twelve  have  been  transported  since, 
twelve  are  now  in  jail  on  recommitments,  and  twenty-five 
have  been  recommitted  (several  frequently),  and  with  few 
exceptions  are  known  to  be  still  living  in  criminal  habits. 
Now,  leaving  out  of  account  the  cost  of  apprehension, 
and  that  of  carrying  out  the  sentence  of  transportations 
when  awarded,  the  expense  of  prosecution  and  mainte- 
nance of  these  in  jail,  on  the  nearest  and  fairest  compu- 
tation I  can  arrive  at,  may  be  stated  to  be  £1,123  16s.  9<i. 
"  But  it  will  not  escape  remark,  that  the  expense  of 
juvenile  crime  is  not  to  be  estimated  solely  by  that  in- 
curred while  they  remain  in  that  category.  There  are,  at 
the  moment  I  write,  forty-three  male  and  thirty-seven 
female  adults  in  the  jail,  who  commenced  their  career  of 
crime  as  Juveniles,  and  only  four  of  wliom  have  exceeded 
the  age  of  twenty-one  years.  The  aggregate  number  of 
times  which  these  have  l)een  in  custody  of  tlie  police  is 
678;  of  their  commitments  to  jail,  539;  and  the  cost  of 
their  several  prosecutions  and  maintenance  whilst  herein 
has  been,  on  tlie  lowest  computation,  £1,877  135.  6d. 
Some  are  for  trial,  and  })0ssibly  may  be  transported,  thus 
entailing  further  heavy  expense ;  but  the  rest,  be  it 
remembered,  will,  in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks,  be  lei 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         71 

loose  upon  society  again,  to  be  maintained  by  the  public, 
partly  by  plunder  and  (if  detected)  partly  out  of  the  '  cor- 
poration purse.'  " 

The  hearts  of  judges  and  jurors  have  been  moved  with 
pity,  when  they  have  been  obliged,  in  the  discharge  of 
their  duties,  to  condemn  and  sentence  to  ignominious 
punishment  some  bright,  intelligent  boy,  who  was  reared 
under  the  most  debasing  circumstances.  Says  an  eminent 
judge,  in  referring  to  juvenile  delinquents:  — 

"  These  unhappy  little  victims  of  neglect  or  shameful 
abuse  of  authority,  are  hardly  proper  subjects  of  punish- 
ment. Their  otfenses  are  not  their  own  ;  they  have  never 
been  taught  the  laws  of  God  or  man ;  or,  if  they  have,  it 
has  been  only  that  they  may  despise  them." 

Miss  Carpenter  remarks,  in  her  work  on  Juvenile  De- 
linquents: "Magistrates  on  the  bench  are  continually 
heard  to  express  their  perplexity  how  to  act  towards 
these  young  offenders,  the  law  directing  them  to  one 
course,  their  own  sense  of  right  and  their  own  natural 
feelings  suggesting  another." 

A  case  is  related  l)y  the  superintendent  of  the  Maine 
State  Keform  School,  of  a  boy  (the  son  of  a  former  con- 
vict of  the  state-prison  in  this  State)  who  was  imprisoned 
for  crime  at  the  early  age  of  nine  or  ten  years.  The 
result  was  that  he  had  been  convicted  more  times  than  he 
could  rememl)er ;  and  the  sheriff  who  brought  him  to 
the  institution  stated  that  he  had  been  convicted  on  so 
many  offenses  that  he  had  spent  tAvo  of  the  last  four 
years  in  jail,  uyiiting  for  trial,  and  was  but  fourteen  years 
of  age  when  committed  to  the  reform  school.  The  boy 
acknowledges  he  continued  to  steal  every  opportunity, 
increasing  in  amount,  well  knowing  that  he  would  receive 
merely  nominal  punish/Hcnt,  on  account  of  his  youth. 

How  different  is  the  condition  of  the  delinquent  youth 
in  a  reformatory  institution.     It  is  true,  he  is  under  re- 


72  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

straint,  but  not  the  restraint  of  a  prison.  As  he  enters, 
he  is  cleansed  in  person  and  clothing ;  he  is  treated  by 
his  teachers  firmly  but  kindly;  the  regulations  of  the 
institution  are  made  known  to  him ;  the  government, 
though  strict,  is  persuasive.  His  self-respect  is  re-estab- 
lished, and  he  soon  feels  that  he  is  cared  for,  and  though 
he  has  transgressed,  yet  here  is  provision  made  to  pre- 
pare him  for  usefulness  and  respectability.  He  is  no 
longer  subjected  to  the  degrading  influence  of  a  convict's 
garb,  but  all  around  seems  to  invite  him  to  effort  for  his 
own  advancement.  Here  he  spends  a  part  of  each  day  in 
the  schoolroom,  where  his  mind  is  stored  with  useful 
knowledge ;  a  part  is  spent  at  some  useful  labor  on  the 
farm  or  in  the  shop ;  and  a  part  is  occupied  in  play  and 
sport  among  his  companions,  under  the  constant  super- 
vision of  faithful  instructors,  both  night  and  day.  He  is 
carefally  trained,  both  morally  and  physicall}' ;  every  in- 
ducement is  placed  before  him  to  lead  him  to  act  from 
principle.  He  is  taught  his  duty  to  himself,  his  play- 
raates,  and  his  God.  Can  it  be  doubted  that  under  such 
faithful  training,  his  stubborn  spirit  yields  to  kindness, 
his  dishonest  acts  to  the  principles  of  right,  and  at  last  he 
takes  his  position  in  society,  a  reformed  youth?  The 
above  is  no  fancy  sketch,  as  the  records  of  institutions  of 
this  class  will  prove. 

Institutions  for  the  reformation  of  juvenile  oftenders, 
though  new  with  us,  have  in  many  of  the  States  become 
the  established  governmental  policy.  There  are  two  in 
Xew  York,  —  one  in  the  city  of  ISTew  York,  upon  Ran- 
dall's Island,  and  one  in  the  western  section  of  the  State. 
The  house  of  refuge  was  opened  in  the  city  in  1825,  was 
rebuilt  in  1853  on  Randall's  Island,  and  will  accommo- 
date 1,000  boys  and  girls.  The  whole  number  it  had  re- 
ceived to  Jan.  1,  1856,  was  6,637;  the  number  remaining 
in  the  house  at  the  last-named  date  was  549.     It  has  been 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         73 

in  operation  thirty  years.  The  western  house  of  refuge 
is  at  Rochester,  and  has  recently  been  enlarged.  It  was 
opened  in  1849,  has  admitted  617,  its  present  number 
being  289,  and  will  accommodate,  when  fully  completed, 
500  inmates.  There  is  also  a  juvenile  asylum  in  New 
York  City,  arranged  for  500  children. 

There  are  two  houses  of  refuge  in  Pennsylvania,  —  one 
in  Philadelphia,  and  one  in  the  western  part  of  the  State. 
The  first  named  was  opened  in  1828,  and  was  rebuilt 
with  much  larger  accommodations  in  1853-4.  It  will 
now  accommodate  about  500  children  of  both  sexes. 
That  in  western  Pennsylvania  is  located  at  or  near  Pitts- 
burg, and  is  intended  for  226  of  both  sexes,  was  opened 
Dec.  13,  1864,  and  contained  in  January,  1856,  143  chil- 
dren. 

There  are  three  establishments  of  the  kind  in  Massa- 
chusetts for  boys,  and  one  nearly  completed  for  girls. 

The  State  Reform  School  at  Westboro'  has  now  about 
550  inmates  ( boys) ;  it  was  founded  in  1848,  and  had  re- 
ceived, to  Dec.  1,  1855,  1,617  inmates.  The  House  of 
Reformation,  at  South  Boston,  will  accommodate  about 
150  boys.  The  Farm  School  on  Thompson's  Island, 
though  not  strictly  a  penal  institution,  is  devoted  to  the 
reformation  of  juvenile  delinquents;  it  will  accommodate 
about  100  boys.  The  State  Industrial  School  for  girls  is 
located  in  Lancaster,  and  is  designed  for  about  100.  It 
will  commence  operations  in  June  or  July  of  the  present 
year. 

In  Connecticut,  a  State  Reform  School  for  boys  was 
opened  in  1854;  its  present  number  is  about  140,  but  will 
be  capable,  when  completed,  of  admitting  300. 

In  Rhode  Island,  the  Providence  Reform  School  was 
opened  in  1850  ;  its  present  number  120. 

In  Ohio,  the  Cincinnati  House  of  Refuge  was  opened 
in  1850 ;  the  present  number  is  about  250. 


74  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

In  Maryland,  a  house  of  refuge,  capable  of  receiving 
252,  was  opened  Dec.  1,  1855;  it  is  designed  for  both 
sexes,  and  is  located  at  Baltimore. 

In  N'ew  Orleans,  one  has  been  in  operation  for  some 
years. 

The  State  of  Indiana  is  about  erecting  three  houses  of 
refuge. 

One  has  also  been  established  at  St.  Louis,  and  one  at 
Chicago  in  Illinois. 

There  is  one  in  Maine,  which  will  accommodate  240, 
which  is  now  full. 

It  is  an  encouraging  fact  that  all  reformatory  schools 
have  received  the  cordial  support  of  the  community, 
where  they  have  been  in  operation  a  sufficient  time  to 
test  their  usefulness. 

The  good  results  arising  from  these  institutions  is  hap- 
pily stated  by  James  "VV.  Girard,  a  member  of  the  i^ew 
York  bar,  on  the  occasion  of  opening  the  new  House  of 
Refuge  on  Randall's  Island.  Mr.  Girard  has  been  con- 
nected with  the  institution  from  its  commencement,  a 
period  of  thirty  years.  He  said,  "  Within  a  month  he 
had  seen  the  face  of  one,  now  a  man,  and  an  active  man 
of  business  in  this  city,  who  had  been  checked  in  his 
career  by  his  reception  into  the  Refuge,  and  by  the  prin- 
ciples which  were  there  instilled  into  his  mind ;  that  as  a 
manager  of  the  present  Refuge  for  several  years  after  its 
formation,  had  given  this  boy  and  others  many  a  short 
address  upon  their  duties,  and  he  believed  that  he 
preached  as  well  then  as  he  can  now.  That  boy's  name 
he  had  forgotten,  but  his  face  never,  and  if  he  remem- 
bered, of  course  he  would  not  tell  it.  He  is  now  a  thriv- 
ing man  in  this  community,  a  much  better  dressed  gen- 
tleman than  he  (Mr.  G.)  himself.  One  such  case  (and 
the  records  of  society  are  full  of  them)  compensated  for 
all  the  labor  he  had  bestowed  in  aidins;  to  form  this  most 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         75 

valuable  institution,  and  doubtless,  if  that  person  sees  the 
report  of  this  day's  proceedings,  he  will  pour  out,  in  the 
gratitude  of  his  heart,  a  silent  blessing  upon  those  who 
snatched  him  from  ruin." 

The  following  extract  from  Governor  "Wells's  address 
to  the  last  legislature  will  show  how  the  reform  school  in 
Maine  is  regarded,  after  an  experience  of  two  years :  — 

"  It  is  gratifying  to  learn  that  the  Reform  School  is  in  a 
flourishing  condition,  and  that  it  meets  the  just  expecta- 
tions of  the  public.  The  old  system  and  mode  of  treat- 
ment of  boys  of  tender  age,  who  had  violated  the  laws, 
when  their  minds  are  immature  and  judgments  unformed, 
by  confining  them  in  jails  and  prisons,  at  a  time  when 
they  most  needed  kindness  and  the  peculiar  care  incident 
to  children,  has  at  length  yielded  to  a  more  enlightened 
and  rational  treatment. 

"  In  this  school,  the  boys  are  instructed  in  the  usual 
branches  of  knowledge  commonly  taught  in  other  schools. 
They  learn  some  useful  trade  and  work  upon  the  farm, 
while  their  religious  and  moral  culture  is  not  neglected. 
They  also  acquire  habits  of  industry,  so  necessary  to  be 
possessed  by  every  person  who  desires  to  obtain  the  means 
of  subsistence,  and  to  live  happily.  A  love  of  labor,  with- 
out which  no  one  can  accomplish  much,  must  be  implanted 
in  early  life,  by  diligent  training. 

"  The  object  of  this  school  is  to  reform  those  who  have 
gone  astray,  and  prepare  them  for  the  active  duties  of  so- 
ciety. It  is  much  less  expensive  to  teach  the  young  and 
erring  to  walk  in  the  path  of  virtue,  and  fit  them  for  use- 
fulness, than  to  allow  them  to  grow  uji  in  vice  and  crime, 
and  then  i)unish  them  for  their  misconduct.  The  difi^er- 
ence  in  value  to  the  State  between  a  good  and  a  bad  citizen 
cannot  be  estimated  by  money.  This  institution  is  really 
deserving  the  care  of  the  legislature,  and  there  can  be  no 
doubt  will  receive  it.     It  is   now  nearly  full,  and  some 


76  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

means  must  be  taken  to  furnisli  further  accommodations, 
unless  a  part  of  the  least  vicious  are  allowed  to  be  re- 
turned to  their  parents  before  the  expiration  of  their  sen- 
tence. The  trustees  should  be  permitted  to  use  their  dis- 
cretion as  to  the  time  those  sent  to  the  school  should 
remain.  If  some  such  reduction  does  not  take  place,  it 
vnW  be  necessary  to  enlarge  the  accommodations  at  the 
present  location,  or  establish  another  school  in  some  other 
location  in  some  other  part  of  the  State.  The  present 
number,  which  is  about  two  hundred  in  the  school,  may 
seem  large,  but  when  we  estimate  the  whole  number  of 
male  minors  in  the  State  that  are  old  enough  to  commit 
otfenses,  the  per  cent  will  be  found  very  small.  The  care, 
protection,  and  instruction  of  the  young  and  inexperienced 
is  not  only  a  duty  dictated  by  the  highest  benevolence,  but 
the  safety  and  security  of  the  community  demand  its  exer- 
cise on  the  part  of  the  government." 

LOCATION. 

That  we  might  gain  all  the  information  possible  in  rela- 
tion to  the  object  of  our  commission,  we  visited  the  Mas- 
sachusetts State  Reform  School  at  AVestboro',  the  Maine 
State  Reform  School  at  Cape  Elizabeth,  and  other  similar 
institutions,  and  examined  their  several  locations,  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  buildings,  and  all  needful  appliances  for 
the  establishment  of  such  an  institution.  Among  other 
matters,  the  attention  of  the  commissioners  was  called  to 
the  i)nporfaiit  point  of  a  bountiful  supply  of  water,  as  they 
find  that  much  expense  has  l)een  incurred  to  procure  it  in 
many  public  institutions  in  other  States. 

At  Westboro'  Reform  School  the  managers  have  found 
it  necessary  to  expend  a  large  amount  in  erecting  a  steam 
engine  to  force  the  water,  by  means  of  a  pump,  from  a 
neighboring  pond  to  the  building,  whicli  must  necessarily 
be  a  constant  expense.  They  meet  with  the  same  difficulty 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         77 

at  the  Reform  Scliool  in  Maine.  Hence  the  commission- 
ers made  tliis  an  indispensable  point,  that  they  would  ac- 
cept no  location  where  a  suitable  spring  could  not  be  found 
sufficiently  elevated  to  enable  the  water  to  flow  over  the 
highest  part  of  the  building.  Ry  the  resolve  they  are  di- 
rected to  procure  a  farm  in  the  central  part  of  the  State, 
regard  being  had  to  the  center  of  population,  etc. 

Before  proceeding  to  examine  farms,  we  caused  the  fol- 
lowing notice  to  be  inserted  in  the  newspapers  at  Man- 
chester and  Concord  :  — 

House  of  Reformation.  — By  virtue  of  a  resolution  of  the  Legis- 
lature of  this  State,  the  subscribers  have  been  appointed  Commis- 
sioners "  to  select  a  tract  of  land  or  farm,  containing  not  less  than 
one  hundred  acres,  in  some  central  part  of  the  State,  the  same  having 
an  eligible  site  for  a  House  of  Reformation  for  juvenile  and  female 
offenders  against  the  laws,  regard  being  had,  in  the  selection,  to  the 
center  of  po2)ulation,  the  cheapness  of  living,  and  facility  of  access." 
Any  person  desirous  of  disposing  of  a  farm,  having  the  foregoing 
requisites,  by  gift  or  othenvise,  for  the  purpose  above  named,  is  re- 
quested to  give  notice  thereof  to  either  of  the  subscribers. 

Fkederick  Smyth. 
]\Iatthew  Hakvey. 
Hose  A  Eaton. 
Aug.  31,  1855. 

After  inspecting  about  twenty  farms,  they  selected  one 
known  as  the  "  Stark  Farm,"  being  a  part  of  that  formerly 
owned  by  Gen.  John  Stark,  containing  one  hundred  acres 
of  excellent  land,  all  of  which  maybe  cultivated.  It.  is 
situated  in  Manchester,  about  two  miles  north  of  the  city 
hall,  and  the  road  from  thence  is  level,  or  of  gradual  as- 
cent. It  lies  on  the  Merrimack  river.  Concord  Eailroad, 
and  on  the  public  road  leading  from  Manchester  to  Con- 
cord. 

The  railroad  corporation  have  consented  to  construct  a 
side  track,  with  a  switch,  at  such  place  as  the  commis- 
sioners may  designate,  for  the  convenience  of  the  institu- 


78  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tion,  which  will  make  it  easy  of  access,  and  will  be  of 
great  advantage  in  conveying  heavy  articles  to  the  build- 
ing. The  spot  upon  which  the  buildings  are  being  erected 
is  about  nine  hundred  feet  from  the  river  and  railroad, 
and  is  elevated  above  the  river  about  fifty  feet.  The  farm 
has  a  variety  of  soil,  all  of  which  is  susceptible  of  high 
cultivation,  being  generally  free  from  rocks,  and  rises  in 
a  gentle  and  undulating  ascent  from  the  river  to  the  ex- 
treme back  part  of  the  farm,  so  that  from  the  building 
nearly  all  of  it  can  be  seen  at  a  glance.  This  is  an  im- 
portant feature  where  hojjs  are  employed  in  its  cultivation. 

The  building  is  pleasantly  located  upon  a  dry,  airy  ele- 
vation, with  the  river  and  railroad  in  front,  a  beautiful 
grove  a  few  rods  to  the  right,  and  the  city  of  Manchester 
is  plainly  seen  in  the  distance  at  the  left.  The  building  is 
far  enough  from  the  highway  to  give  it  quietness  and  se- 
clusion, so  desirable  in  an  institution  of  this  kind.  There 
are  two  sources  of  never-failing  water  upon  the  premises  : 
one  is  a  spring  within  a  few  feet  of  the  proposed  building, 
flowing  from  the  hill  at  all  seasons,  which  could  be  raised 
to  the  top  of  the  building  by  means  of  a  hydraulic  ram  ; 
the  other  is  at  the  distance  of  about  two  hundred  rods, 
and  sutSciently  elevated  to  flow  freely  over  the  ridgepole 
of  the  building. 

The  following  desirable  considerations  have  influenced 
the  commissioners  in  selecting  the  present  location  :  — 

.  1st.  A  suitable  quantity  of  good  fertile  land,  which  may 
be  easily  tilled,  while  it  is  in  a  good  degree  certain  to  yield 
its  increase,  and  which  has  a  pleasant  variety  of  woodland, 
tillage,  meadow,  pasture,  and  pleasant,  variegated  surface. 

2d.  All  uiibouiidod  supply  of  unfailing  pure  water,  with 
head  and  fall  to  raise  the  same  to  any  desirable  elevation 
in  the  building,  to  wash,  bathe,  and  drink,  or  for  fountains 
to  ornament  the  grounds,  is  found  on  the  premises  with 
entire  control  and  undisi)uted  title. 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         79 

3d.  Facilities  of  communication  by  railroad,  and  car- 
riages on  a  pleasant  road,  for  persons  having  business,  and 
for  carrying  heavy  articles  for  the  use  of  the  house. 

4th.  Proximity  to  an  intelligent,  industrious,  and  reli- 
gious population,  where  the  institution  can  enjoy  the 
valuable  labors  of  intelligent  Christians  of  different  de- 
nominations in  a  Sabbath-school. 

5th.  Pleasant  prospect  of  land,  water,  and  wood,  and 
scenery  which  is  pleasing  and  attractive  to  the  eye. 

6th.  "While  it  is  at  a  convenient  distance  from  a  large 
town,  with  all  the  advantages  of  a  good  market  for  sup- 
plying the  institution  and  for  disposing  of  such  articles  as 
shall  be  raised  on  the  farm  or  manufactured  in  the  shop, 
yet  it  is  situated  in  a  quiet  and  retired  place. 

The  commissioners,  desiring  to  act  with  caution  in  so 
important  a  matter,  procured  a  bond  for  a  deed  of  the 
farm,  and  invited  the  governor  and  council  to  examine 
the  same  before  purchasing,  and  they  were  unanimous 
in  their  approval  of  the  location.  The  commissioners 
have  purchased  one  hundred  acres,  for  which  they  paid 
$10,000.  The  house  occupied  by  General  Stark  will 
answer  the  purpose  of  a  farmhouse,  and  there  are  suf- 
ticient  barns  for  the  present. 

The  commissioners  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  the 
legislature  to  the  importance  of  the  purchase  of  a  lot  of 
land  containing  ten  acres,  lying  near  and  immediately  con- 
tiguous to  the  location  of  the  building.  The  commission- 
ers have  obtained  a  bond  for  this  land,  which  can  be  had 
any  time  previous  to  November,  1856,  at  one  hundred 
dollars  per  acre.  Its  connection  with  the  premises,  and 
the  low  price,  make  it  very  desirable  that  the  State  should 
make  the  purchase.  They  desire  to  urge  its  importance 
upon  the  attention  of  the  legislature  at  this  time,  as  it 
cannot  probably  be  purchased  for  double  the  price  above 
named  after  the  bond  expires. 


80  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

PLAN    OF    BUILDING. 

Having  purchased  the  farm,  the  commissioners  imme- 
diately gave  their  attention  to  the  preparation  of  the 
necessary  plans  for  the  buildings.  They  were  desirous  of 
profiting  by  the  experience  of  others,  and  invited  indi- 
viduals to  submit  plans  for  inspection,  all  of  which  were 
carefully  examined.  Particular  attention  was  given  to 
this  subject,  as  they  deemed  it  highly  important,  both 
because  it  presents  a  considerable  item  of  expense  in  the 
commencement,  and  because  the  convenient,  suitable, 
and  comfortable  arrangement  of  the  building  contributes 
in  a  high  degree  to  the  success  of  a  house  of  reformation. 

The  plans  which  the  commissioners  have  unanimously 
decided  upon,  and  procured,  accompany  this  report. 
They  have  been  designed  by  W.  R.  Lincoln,  Esq.,  superin- 
tendent of  the  State  Reform  School  in  Maine  since  its 
commencement,  who  has  had  long  experience  in  reform 
schools  in  Westboro'  and  Boston, 

The  plans  and  working  drawings  were  made  by  Grid- 
ley  J.  F.  Bryant,  of  Boston,  who  has  had  large  experi- 
ence in  planning  many  public  buildings,  and  whose  terms 
are  very  reasonable. 

The  plan  adopted  embraces  what  may  be  termed  the 
"  family  system."  Its  principal  feature  consists  in  so  ar- 
ranging the  building  as  to  give  accommodation  for  several 
families  of  children,  each  family  in  separate  buildings,  all 
of  which  are  connected  by  a  narrow  corridor  so  as  to 
form,  in  external  appearance,  one  building.  As  these 
plans  are  adapted  to,  and  their  leading  peculiarities  grow 
out  of,  a  system  for  the  organization  and  government  of 
the  institution,  it  is  proper  to  consider  that,  before  further 
describing  the  particular  arrangement  of  the  plan. 

The  commissioners  hope  they  will  not  be  considered  as 
encroaching  upon  the  duties  of  the  trustees,  upon  whom 
the  successful  government  of  the  institution  will  depend ; 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         81 

but  as  the  building  has  been  arranged  with  a  view  to  an 
improvement  in  conducting  such  an  estabhshment,  it 
seems  appropriate  that  they  should  state  the  jwiyiciples 
upon  which  such  an  arrangement  has  been  made.  The 
great  object  to  be  constantly  kept  in  view  is  the  reforma- 
tion and  restoration  of  youth  who  have  already  entered 
upon  a  criminal  course  of  life,  and  thus  become  a  con- 
stant charge  upon  the  State. 

The  plan  contemplates  a  complete  classification,  so  that 
no  more  than  sixty-three  children  shall  ever  associate  to- 
gether. So  complete  is  this  arrangement  that  no  boy  in 
one  family  can  ever  see  those  in  another,  except  in  the 
chapel.  It  is  designed  that  no  child  shall  be  transferred 
from  one  to  another  except  in  some  few  cases  of  emer- 
gency. By  this  arrangement  they  can  be  so  classified  as  to 
separate  the  larger  from  the  smaller,  the  more  vicious 
from  those  less  advanced  in  criminal  life,  etc. 

The  State  of  Massachusetts  is  now  completing  the 
necessary  buildings  for  a  State  Industrial  School  for  girls, 
which  the  commissioners  have  wisely  arranged  upon  this 
family  plan.  In  their  able  report  to  the  governor  and 
council,  dated  Jan.  19,  1855,  they  speak  as  follows  upon 
this  system  as  contemplated  in  their  new  institution  :  — 

"  The  State  proposes  to  reform  girls.  It  intends  to  take 
into  the  proposed  institution  the  ignorant,  the  wayward, 
the  vagrant,  and  even  the  criminal,  and  so  change  them 
as  to  return  them  to  society  intelligent,  docile,  industri- 
ous, and  inoffensive  members.  How  can  this  best  be 
done  ?  There  is  an  external  reformation  and  an  internal 
reformation, —  a  reformation  of  habits  merely,  and  a 
reformation  of  essential  character, 

"  The  State  aims  to  do  both  ;  or  rather,  by  eftecting  an 
essential  change  of  character,  to  effect  at  the  same  time  a 
change  of  habits.  Xow  what  is,  or  what  should  be,  the 
elementary  character  of  that   government  and  oro'aniza- 


82  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tion  which,  humanelj^  speaking,  can  best  accomplish  this 
end  ?  The  commissioners  can  entertain  no  doubt  that 
the  organization  should  be  that  of  the  family,  and  the 
government  as  nearly  as  practicable  that  of  a  parent. 
They  believe  that  great  moral  and  religious  power  abides 
in  the  idea  of  iMrental  government  and  family  organiza- 
tion, which  has  not  been  developed  in  any  public  reform- 
atory institution  in  this  country ;  and  that,  if  this  legiti- 
mate power  were  wrought  out  into  ultimate  action,  it 
would  effect  more  in  the  way  of  reforming  juvenile  de- 
linquents than  measures  based  upon  any  other  idea. 
This  relation  of  parent  and  family  is  primitive,  continu- 
ous, and  perpetual.  It  always  has  and  always  will  operate 
in  the  social  system  with  a  force  as  sure  and  in  a  direc- 
tion as  unerring  as  that  of  gravity  in  the  material  world. 
By  and  through  it  the  wisdom  of  the  mature  is  brought 
into  a  just  and  proper  relation  to  the  incipient  yearnings 
and  nascent  aspirations  of  the  young,  and  there  is  ever  a 
tendency  to  cluster  around  it  the  innocence,  sympathy, 
delight,  and  happiness  which  are  embraced  in  the  one 
word,  —  home." 

This  is  not  theory ;  though  tlie  commissioners  are  not 
aware  that  any  reformatory  institution  has  been  estab- 
lished in  this  country  (except  that  in  Massachusetts,  above 
named)  precisely  upon  this  system,  although  it  is  now 
universally  approved  by  those  who  have  given  attention 
to  the  subject,  and  had  experience  in  institutions  of  the 
kind,  yet  it  has  been  practiced  for  many  years  in  institu- 
tions on  the  continent  of  Europe.  The  "  Rauhe  Hans," 
near  Ilamlmrg,  and  the  institutions  for  juvenile  delin- 
quents at  Mettray  in  France,  are  among  the  most  success- 
ful in  Europe  ;  both  of  which  are  organized  upon  the 
family  system. 

The  "  Rauhe  Haus  "  was  opened  Xov.  1,  1833,  under 
the  management  of  that  truly  noble  man,  M.  Mitchem, 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         83 

who  has  so  long  and  with  so  much  success  labored  to 
promote  the  cause  of  reformation  of  criminal  jouth  in 
Europe. 

The  Agricultural  Colony  at  Mottray,  in  France,  for  the 
reformation  of  criminal  boys,  was  founded  in  1839,  and 
now  contains  about  625  boys,  separated  into  twelve  differ- 
ent families  in  as  many  buildings.  It  has  been  found  de- 
sirable there,  not  to  transfer  boys  of  one  family  into  an- 
other, in  order  that  the  family  may  be  less  likely  to  be 
broken  into.  So  great  has  been  the  success  in  this  insti- 
tution, that  forty-one  similar  ones  have  been  established 
in  France  alone,  and  many  others  in  other  countries  on 
the  continent.  Its  success  may  be  judged  of  from  the 
fact  that  of  856  who  had  left  the  institution,  708  con- 
ducted themselves  perfectly  well,  47  tolerably,  16  not 
known,  and  85  relapsed,  being  but  nine  and  a  half  per 
cent,  a  much  less  per  cent  than  is  generally  realized  at 
like  institutions  established  on  a  different  plan. 

DESCIIIPTION    OF    BUILDING. 

Its  architectural  plan  is  simple  and  plain,  nothing 
being  done  for  mere  ornament  except  the  dome  on  the 
central  building,  which  may  be  left  oV(  if  the  legislature 
so  direct.  Its  removal,  however,  would  mar  the  beauty 
of  the  building.  It  has  a  cheerful  appearance,  there  be- 
ing nothing  about  it  gloomy  or  prison-like.  It  is  to  be 
built  of  brick,  upon  a  stone  foundation.  The  main  or 
central  building  in  front  of  the  corridor  is  87  l)y  21  feet ; 
that  }»ortion  back  of  the  corridor  is  61  by  49  feet.  This 
building  is  four  stories  in  height  above  the  basement;  at 
the  right  and  left  of  the  central  building  are  two  others, 
each  three  stories  above  the  basement,  measuring  85  by 
57  feet.  These  two  buildings  are  placed  tifty  feet  from 
the  center  building,  being  connected  with  it  by  a  narrow 
corridor,  so  that  the  three  buildings  have  the  external 
a})pearance   of  one.     The   central  building  is  suthciently 


84  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

large  for  any  probable  future  increase.  The  house  can 
be  easily  enlarged  by  extending  the  buildings  to  the  right 
and  left  of  the  center. 

The  central  building  contains  accommodations  for  the 
superintendent's  family  and  assistant's  office,  kitchen, 
hospital,  chapel,  etc.  Each  of  the  end  buildings  contains 
bath-room,  dining-room,  schoolroom,  and  library,  and  a 
dormitory  for  each  boy,  5  by  8  feet.  It  is  designed  to 
have  all  the  cooking  done  for  the  whole  establishment  in 
the  back  part  of  the  central  building,  the  food  to  be  con- 
veyed along  the  connecting  corridor  by  means  of  a  small 
railway  to  each  dining-room.  The  central  building  be- 
ing constructed  of  sufficient  size  for  double  the  number 
now  provided  for,  in  view  of  future  enlargement,  the 
commissioners  decided  to  occupy  the  extra  room  by  using 
it  for  the  accommodation  of  twenty-live  females.  To  do 
so,  they  propose  using  one  of  the  basement  rooms  for  a 
bath-room,  one  of  the  store-rooms  on  the  principal  floor 
for  a  drying-room,  and  the  great  kitchen  for  washing, 
ironing,  cooking,  and  baking,  Avhich  will  be  sufficiently 
large  for  the  number  proposed.  They  propose  using  the 
hospital,  divided  into  four  rooms,  for  dining-room,  school- 
room, shop,  and  store-room,  and  to  provide  for  sleeping- 
rooms,  they  propose  putting  a  temporary  partition  across 
the  chapel  for  this  purpose.  By  this  arrangement,  when 
the  whole  shall  be  needed  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  is 
planned,  it  will  re(|uire  nothing  torn  down  but  the  parti- 
tions in  the  chapel. 

In  the  rear  of  the  main  building  are  to  be  erected  cheap 
buildings,  the  first  story  of  which  will  be  for  a  playroom, 
and  the  second  a  workshop,  the  playground  being  be- 
tween them  and  the  main  building. 

PROGRt:SS    OF    THE    WORK. 

The  commissioners  have  made  the  following  contracts 
for  work  on  the  buildings  :  for  excavation,  at  12i  cents 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         85 

per  cubic  yard  ;  for  stone  foundation,  at  $3.50  per  perch ; 
for  all  the  cut  granite  delivered  ready  to  set,  at  the  round 
sum  of  $5,275 ;  for  the  best  quality  of  bricks,  to  be  de- 
livered on  the  spot,  at  $6.20  per  thousand.  They  have 
also  advertised  for  proposals  for  laying  the  bricks,  which 
will  soon  be  closed.  For  all  the  contracts  they  have  ad- 
vertised in  Concord  and  Manchester  papers,  have  taken 
the  lowest  bids,  and  contracted  with  responsible  parties. 
The  commissioners  propose  to  do  the  work  in  a  plain, 
substantial  manner,  but  nothing  will  be  designedly  omitted 
which  will  affect  the  practical  value  or  permanence  of  the 
building. 

It  may  not  be  generally  known  that  the  State  is  in- 
debted to  the  late  Hon.  James  McKeen  "Wilkins,  of  Man- 
chester, for  a  large  donation  for  the  future  benefit  of  this 
institution.  An  extract  from  his  will,  in  relation  to  this 
subject,  is  herewith  presented. 

"  I  give,  devise,  and  bequeath  to  my  esteemed  friends, 
Moses  Z^orris,  of  said  Manchester,  Peter  P.  Woodbury,  of 
Bedford,  and  Moody  Currier,  of  said  Manchester,  all  the 
rest,  residue,  and  remainder  of  my  estate,  both  real  and 
personal,  in  trust  for  the  following  purposes,  that  is  to  say, 
in  trust  to  pay  over,  assign,  and  convey  the  said  residue  of 
my  estate  to  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  a  House  of  Refor- 
mation for  juvenile  and  female,  offenders  against  the  laws, 
in  case  such  an  institution  shall  be  established  and  suit- 
able buildings  erected,  and  the  said  House  of  Reformation 
put  in  operation  by  the  legislature  of  the  State  of  Xew 
Hampshire  within  five  years  after  my  decease ;  and  in  case 
no  such  institution  shall  be  so  established  within  said  term, 
then  in  trust  to  pay  over,  assign,  and  convey  the  said  resi- 
due of  my  estate,  in  equal  shares,  to  the  before-named 
American  Bible  Society  and  American  Board  of  Com- 
missioners for  Foreign  Missions,  to  be  applied  to  the  dis- 


86  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tribution  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  the  diffusion  of  the 
Christian  Religion  among  the  Heathen. 

"  I  desire  my  said  Trustees  to  present  to  the  Legisla- 
ture of  this  State  a  respectful  memorial,  setting  forth  the 
great  importance  and  necessity  of  the  establishment  of 
such  a  House  of  Reformation,  with  a  view  to  separate  the 
classes  of  juvenile  and  female  offenders  from  the  evil  in- 
fluences of  the  public  prisons,  and  to  promote  their  moral 
improvement  and  reformation ;  and  my  anxious  desire 
for  the  establishment  of  such  an  institution,  and  my  be- 
quest and  desire  aforesaid  for  that  object,  and  praying 
that  such  a  House  of  Reformation  may  be  established,  to 
be  under  the  control  of  a  Board  of  Trustees  to  be  elected 
by  the  Legislature." 

The  commissioners  would  here  commit  the  subject  in 
its  design  and  arrangement  to  the  candid  and  deliberate 
consideration  of  the  legislature ;  and  as  means  have  been 
provided  for  the  commencement  of  this  enterprise,  they 
trust  that  such  appropriations  as  will  be  necessary  to  prose- 
cute the  same  to  its  completion,  will  be  promptly  made. 

FREDERICK    SMYTH. 
]\IATTHEW  HARVEY. 
HOSEA   EATON. 
JuxE  9,  1856. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  1858,  the  formal  dedication  of  the 
House  of  Reformation  took  place,  on  which  occasion  the 
programme  consisted  of  prayer  by  Rev.  C.  W.  Wallace, 
a  dedication  anthem,  delivery  of  the  keys,  and  surrender 
of  the  building  to  the  governor  of  the  State  by  Mr.  Smyth 
as  chairman  of  the  Board  of  Commissioners.  His  re- 
marks at  that  time  were  as  follows :  — 

Your  Excellency,  and  Gentlemen  : 

Permit  me  to  congratulate  you  that,  assembled  for  the 
first  time  witliin  these  walls,  we  inauffurate  a  new  and 


KEPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         87 

important  enterprise  in  the  State,  —  an  enterprise  bearing 
on  its  front  the  approval  of  humanity,  benevolence,  and 
of  true  religion.  To  reclaim  the  wanderer,  to  recall  to 
virtue's  path  the  erring,  to  bring  back  young  feet  into 
the  course  of  rectitude,  this  house  of  safety,  this  ark  of 
refuge,  commended  and  urged  on  public  consideration  by 
your  predecessors,  Governors  Martin,  Baker,  and  Metcalf, 
commenced  under  the  administration  of  the  latter,  it  is 
reserved  for  your  good  fortune,  after  your  successful 
eftbrts  in  its  behalf,  to  launch,  with  the  tide  of  public 
approval  unmistakably  expressed. 

The  im^^ortance  of  this  occasion,  in  its  connection  with 
the  future  interests  of  multitudes  in  our  State,  can  hardly 
be  overestimated.  If  we  look  at  the  sad  proportion  of 
young  persons  on  the  list  of  criminals  in  our  own  ^nd 
other  States,  if  we  investigate  with  care  the  results  of  like 
means  with  those  we  now  propose  to  use  to  save  society 
from  the  curse  of  their  vicious  lives,  and  themselves  from 
the  greater  curse  of  mental  destruction,  we  shall  find  that, 
in  comparison,  the  account  of  dollars  and  cents  it  will 
cost  dwindles  into  utter  insignificance. 

A  certain  responsibility  rests  upon  the  State  towards  its 
citizens,  not  only  that  you  and  I  shall  be  protected  in  our 
business,  and  made  confident  in  the  safety  of  our  homes, 
but  that  those  who  have  outraged  common  sentiment, 
and  who  need  restraints  that  can  be  seen  and  felt,  should 
be  turned  from  their  downward  road,  that  all  their  influ- 
ence so  potent  for  evil  should  be  reversed.  This  institu- 
tion we  to-day  dedicate  is  to  supply  a  want,  a  need  of  the 
State,  that  incipient  crime  may  not  become  confirmed 
wickedness,  that  the  jail  and  the  prison  may  not  harden 
and  forever  fix  what  they  were  designed  to  prevent.  We 
can  claim  no  exemption  from  the  common  lot  of  society, 
and  although  the  moral  character  of  our  youthful  popu- 
lation  comi)ares  favorably  with  that  of  other  States,  we 


ob  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

cannot  conceal  the  fact,  if  we  would,  that  juvenile  delin- 
quency is  sadly  on  the  increase  among  us,  from  causes 
constantly  accumulating.  To-day  we  see  testimony  here 
that  the  State  has  met  and  dealt  with  this  fact ;  how  she 
has  neither  permitted  it  to  be  gainsaid,  ignored,  or  ridi- 
culed out  of  sight. 

Although  as  commissioners  our  duties  have  at  times 
been  arduous  and  perplexing,  we  have  felt  the  assurance 
that  the  enterprise  would  command  the  respect  of  all  good 
citizens,  and  that  it  was  not  unworthy  the  blessing  of  God. 

Entire  unanimity  has  characterized  our  deliberations, 
and  in  the  most  important,  as  in  the  most  trivial  matters, 
our  intercourse  has  been  agreeable  and  pleasant,  and  I 
may  with  propriety  take  this  occasion  especially  to  ex- 
press our  grateful  acknowledgments  for  attentions  paid 
and  information  received  from  gentlemen  connected  with 
reformator}'  institutions  in  the  States  of  Massachusetts, 
jNIaine,  Connecticut,  iSTew  York,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland, 
Illinois,  Ohio,  and  Missouri,  —  information  received  both 
by  letter  and  by  personal  inspection. 

AVe  have  not  in  any  instance  departed  from  that  strict 
economy,  which  we  believe  to  be  the  true  policy  and  fixed 
habit  of  the  people  of  ]Srew  Hampshire,  in  their  public 
undertakings.  Everything  about  the  building  is  of  a  per- 
manent kind.  The  interior  walls  of  brick  render  the 
building  nearly  fire-proof,  an  important  consideration 
when  we  take  into  account  the  character  of  those  we  hope 
to  reclaim.  That  the  structure  will  prove  faultless,  or 
that  ingenious  grumblers  may  not  find  this  too  dear  or 
that  too  cheap,  is  hardly  to  be  expected.  Time  and  expe- 
rience only  can  fully  demonstrate  the  utility  and  adapta- 
tion of  the  work. 

The  general  plan  is  such  that  future  expansions,  en- 
largement, or  alteration  can  be  made  without  extra  expense 
or  injury,  or  without  marring  the  good  appearance  of  the 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         89 

whole.  Some  of  the  interior  apartments  are  left  unplas- 
tered,  dampness  being  prevented  by  a  sufficient  air  space 
in  the  center  of  all  the  brick  walls. 

But  this  is  no  time  for  minute  specification:  the  build- 
ing is  around  you ;  it  speaks  for  itself  With  a  little 
additional  furniture  it  is  capable  of  accommodating  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  boys  and  twenty-five  girls,  with 
the  family  of  the  superintendent. 

The  building  has  cost  the  sum  of  $34,000,  added  to 
which  the  cost  of  the  land,  $11,000,  makes  $45,000,  being 
the  amount  authorized  by  the  legislature  for  that  purpose. 
Beyond  this,  the  furniture,  ordered  to  be  of  the  most 
economical  kind,  including  the  furnishing  of  water  to  all 
parts  of  the  building  required,  by  a  constant  running 
stream,  will  cost  about  forty-five  hundred  dollars. 

The  commissioners  entered  upon  their  labors  in  Sep- 
tember, 1855;  purchased  the  farm,  by  approval  of  the 
governor  and  council,  in  I^ovember  of  the  same  year. 
The  foundation  was  laid  in  the  spring,  and  the  building 
commenced  in  the  summer  of  1856;  was  finished  in  the 
autumn  of  1857,  and  furnished  in  the  spring  of  1858. 

To-day  this  structure  is  surrendered  into  the  hands  of 
your  excellency,  to  be  hereafter,  with  those  who  shall  be 
its  inmates,  under  the  control  of  the  board  of  trustees, — 
gentlemen  every  way  worthy  the  confidence  of  the  people 
of  the  State,  fully  comprehending  the  high  nature  of  their 
trust,  and  who  will  carry  out  the  excellent  design  of  this 
institution,  unmoved  by  party  prejudice  or  turned  from 
their  honorable  course  by  any  selfish  motive.  In  such 
hands,  the  late  Hon.  J.  McKeen  Wilkins  might  well  risk 
the  execution  of  the  noble  plan,  prompted  and  hastened 
by  his  enlightened  bequest. 

It  may  be,  sir,  no  more  than  the  exemption  that  Provi- 
dence most  commonly  grants  to  good  enterprises,  pru- 
dently conducted,  but  still  it  is  worthy  of  notice,  that  no 


90  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH, 

accident  has  befallen  any  person  in  its  construction,  no 
failure  occurred  on  the  part  of  any  of  its  contractors, 
neither  has  a  single  cent  of  the  appropriation  been  ex- 
pended except  through  legitimate  channels  and  for  duly 
authorized  purposes. 

Our  work  is  now  nearly  at  an  end,  and  when  such  bills 
as  will  shortly  become  due  shall  have  been  paid,  and  our 
accounts  audited  and  approved  by  the  governor  and  coun- 
cil, our  participation  in  this  enterprise,  except  as  citizens, 
who  will  ever  hope  for  its  prosperity  with  all  the  interests 
of  our  State,  and  as  well-wishers  to  the  great  family  of 
mankind,  will  cease. 

It  now  only  remains  for  me  to  present  your  excellency 
with  the  keys  to  these  various  apartments,  and  with  them 
the  building  itself,  which  I  now  do,  with  the  hope  that 
our  trust  has  been  discharged  agreeably  to  the  instruc- 
tions of  the  legislature,  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  people 
of  the  State  we  have  endeavored  to  the  best  of  our 
ability  to  serve,  and  with  the  approval  of  that  Higher 
Power,  on  whose  blessing  depends  the  true  success  of  all 
human  enterprises. 

In  the  course  of  his  reply.  Governor  Haile,  of  Hins- 
dale, said  :  — 

"  In  accepting  the  keys,  Mr.  Chairman,  which  you  have 
placed  in  my  hand,  I  congratulate  you  that  the  labors  re- 
quired by  your  commission  have  been  brought  to  a  suc- 
cessful termination. 

"  This  excellent  tract  of  land,  well  adapted  to  the  pur- 
poses for  which  it  has  been  selected,  fertile,  and  easy  of 
access,  is  associated  with  the  memory  of  one  of  the  bravest 
sons  of  Xew  Hampshire,  whose  exploits  have  given  him 
a  place  in  the  history  of  the  country. 

"  It  is  well  that  this  farm  birthplace,  the  home  and  the 
burial-place  of  John  Stark,  should  be  dedicated  to  the 
public  use. 


REPORT  ON  HOUSE  OF  REFORMATION.         91 

"  I  need  not  add  that  your  work  has  heen  completed  in 
a  manner  most  creditable  to  yourselves  and  to  the  people 
who  committed  the  work  to  your  hands.  Your  reward, 
gentlemen,  shall  he  in  the  reflection  that  you  have  per- 
formed your  duties  faithfully,  while  you  were  engaged  in 
a  public  enterprise,  which,  Mr.  Chairman,  as  you  justly 
observe,  is  worthy  the  respect  of  all  good  men  and  the 
blessing  of  God." 

The  further  exercises  of  this  occasion  consisted  of  a 
speech  from  the  late  Hon.  Horton  J).  Walker,  chairman 
of  the  trustees,  on  reception  of  the  keys  from  the  governor, 
the  singing  of  an  original  ode  written  by  William  Stark, 
Esq.,  with  music  composed  by  George  W.  Stratton,  and 
an  address  by  Hon.  T.  M.  Edwards,  of  Keene,  author  of 
the  bill  establishing  the  institution. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

AGRICULTURAL    SOCIETIES,  —  ABRAHAM    LINCOLN. 

In  1851  Mr.  Smyth  had  accepted  the  office  of  treasurer 
of  the  ISTew  Hampshire  State  Agricultural  Society,  which 
held  its  exhibitions  on  grounds  fitted  up  in  a  suburb  of 
Manchester.  That  year  the  attendance  was  unusually 
large,  and  among  the  invited  guests  was  Daniel  AYebster, 
the  greatest  of  the  sons  of  the  Granite  State,  who  was 
ever  gratified  when  he  could  turn  away  from  public  du- 
ties to  the  enjoyments  of  rural  pursuits.  In  his  remarks 
on  this  occasion,  the  great  expounder  of  the  constitution 
said :  — 

"I  will  say  to  you,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  that  if  there 
be  any  one  thing  in  my  heart  stronger  than  any  other 
wish,  it  is  that  all  the  various  pursuits  of  life,  protected 
by  law,  prosecuted  by  scientific  discovery,  and  guaran- 
teed by  free  government,  may  continue  to  prosper  in  this 
our  land. 

"  Ladies  and  gentlemen,  your  fathers  and  my  fathers  — 
generations  that  have  gone  before  us  —  united  the  char- 
acter of  the  soldier  and  farmer.  They  fought  the  enemy, 
and  they  fought  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  and  they 
struggled  with  the  soil.  The  mechanic  arts  they  pursued 
and  enjoyed  no  further  than  was  necessary  to  carry  on 
those  great  elementary  operations  of  a  farming  country. 
They  lived  in  a  cold  region,  —  a  region  of  six  months  of 
winter,  and  a  short  summer,  during  which  they  were  to 
provide  for  this  great  length  of  inclement  weather. 
They  went,  therefore,  zealously  at  work  to  defend  them- 
selves against  a  savage  foe,  and  cultivate  the  fields  for 


AGRICULTURAL    SOCIETIES.  93 

their  own  subsistence.  And  I  am  old  enough  to  have 
seen,  and  seen  since  I  was  a  member  and  practiced  at  the 
bar,  those  who  have  been  shot  and  wounded  in  their 
own  corn-lields,  by  Indian  muskets,  on  this  river,  just 
above  us. 

"  Now,  gentlemen,  all  is  changed.  "Wars  of  that  kind 
have  ceased  and  come  to  an  end.  He  who  was  half-sol- 
dier and  half-farmer  has  now  become  altogether  farmer, 
or  else  he  has  gone  to  the  mechanic  arts,  —  to  those  vari- 
ous improvements  wdiich  enrich  and  adorn  society,  — and 
our  State  of  New  Hampshire  is  as  great  a  participator  in 
these  improvements  as  any  part  of  the  country.  And  I 
need  not  say  to  you,  gentlemen,  I  need  not  say  to  you 
that  this  new  face  of  things,  this  great  change  that  has 
come  over  us,  while  it  is  partly  owing  to  peace  on  the 
frontiers,  which  has  released  in  former  times  so  many  of 
the  people  of  New  Hampshire  from  border  wars,  that 
peace  itself  has  been  promoted,  and  all  the  arts  that  we 
see  flourishing  around  us,  and  the  increase  of  wealth 
which  we  behold,  are  the  fruits,  first  of  all,  of  the  enter- 
prising character  of  the  people,  and  next,  of  the  good 
government  under  which  it  has  pleased  Almighty  Provi- 
dence to  allow  us  to  live." 

Mr.  Webster's  old  friend.  Col.  Marshall  P.  "Wilder,  de- 
livered the  regular  oration  that  day,  and  an  acquaintance 
was  formed  ])etween  him  and  Mr.  Smyth,  which  ripened 
into  friendship.  Both  are  true  sons  of  New  Hampshire, 
who  have  by  integrity  and  industry  been  successful  in 
their  business  afl:airs,  and  who  have  generously  contrib- 
uted their  time  and  their  money  to  promote  the  improve- 
ment and  the  enjoyment  of  their  fellow-citizens. 

The  Piiited  States  Asrri cultural  Societv  was  estaV)lislied 
by  the  Hon.  ^Farshall  P.  Wilder  and  a  few  kindred 
spirits  in  ditferent  sections  of  the  Union,  to  awaken  and 
sustain  a  more  general  interest  in   all  the  departments  of 


94  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

husbandry,  and  to  unite  by  a  bond  of  common  fellowship 
and  friendship  the  yeomanry  of  all  sections  of  the  coun- 
try. The  department  of  agriculture  had  not  then  been 
created,  and  the  national  society  issued  monthly  bulletins 
and  performed  other  work  which  the  department  after- 
wards assumed.  The  establishment  of  the  department 
was  urged  upon  congress  by  the  national  society,  and 
under  its  auspices  the  comparatively  insignificant  agri- 
cultural bureau  of  the  patent  otiice  became  an  independ- 
ent executive  department,  which  will  at  no  distant  day 
be  represented  in  the  cabinet. 

At  the  annual  meetings  of  the  society  at  Washington, 
and  at  its  national  exliibitions  in  different  sections  of  the 
country,  Mr.  Smyth  met  gentlemen  from  nearly  all  of 
the  States  and  Territories,  all  anxious  to  create  additional 
facilities  for  the  acquisition  and  diffusion  of  agricultural 
knowledge.  He  was  elected,  and  subsequently  annually 
re-elected  for  many  years,  a  member  of  the  executive 
committee,  and  as  such  he  was  a  director  of  several  of 
the  society's  great  exhibitions. 

In  1857,  one  of  these  national  displays  was  held  at 
Louisville,  and  Mr.  Smyth  mingled  for  the  first  time  with 
the  sons  and  daugliters  of  the  Soutli,  so  famed  for  their 
hospitality.  The  finest  horses  and  cattle  were  success- 
fully exhiljited  in  a  huge  amphitheater,  crowded  with  gen- 
tlemen and  ladies.  Magnificent  animals  received  the 
awards,  designated  by  blue,  red,  and  white  ribbons  ;  and 
as  the  judges  affixed  them,  they  were  cheered  by  the 
waving  of  ladies'  handkerchiefs  and  by  the  continued 
shouts  of  the  gentlemen. 

That  evening  there  was  a  grand  banquet  at  the  Gait 
House,  the  guests  comprising  gentlemen  who  had 
adorned  the  councils  of  the  nation,  with  others  distin- 
guished in  agriculture  and  literature,  and  the  representa- 
tives of  great   commercial   and  manufacturing  interests. 


AGRICULTURAL    SOCIETIES.  95 

Eloquence,  wit,  and  sentiment  were  generously  contrib- 
uted by  the  successive  speakers.  Mr.  Smyth  was  called 
upon  to  respond  to  the  eleventh  regular  toast :  "  New 
Hampshire  :  may  the  Union  of  the  States  be  as  lasting  as 
her  granite  hills."  He  spoke  briefly  yet  forcibly,  claim- 
ing that  his  home,  sterile  and  rocky  though  it  might  be, 
was  the  peer  of  every  other  State,  and  was  only  ready  to 
recognize  them  as  her  equals  in  the  Union,  to  establish 
which  her  sons  fought  in  the  Revolution. 

In  the  winter  of  1857-58,  Mr.  Smyth  was  chosen  as 
one  of  the  representatives  to  the  State  legislature  from 
"VYard  Three  of  the  city  of  Manchester.  The  house  of  rep- 
resentatives was  at  tliat  time  a  large  body,  in  which  every 
section  of  the  State  and  every  shade  of  political  opinion 
was  fully  represented. 

In  1858,  the  United  States  Agricultural  Society  held 
its  sixth  annual  exhil)ition  on  the  grounds  of  the  AHrginia 
State  Agricultural  Society,  at  Richmond.  Mr.  Smyth, 
who  was  a  member  of  the  executive  committee,  was  en- 
trusted with  the  financial  arrangements,  and  he  instituted 
a  perfect  system,  which,  by  stopping  all  leaks,  added 
greatly  to  the  net  recei})ts.  The  exhibition  was  a  fine  one. 
Eighteen  thoroughbred  horses  were  the  theme  of  general 
admiration,  and  tliorc  were  fine  specimens  of  agricultural 
and  horticultund  skill,  l)rought  from  the  gardens  of  the 
shores  of  Lake  Superior,  from  the  rice-fields  of  South 
Carolina,  from  the  vineyards  of  the  AVestern  States,  from 
the  orchards  of  Xew  England,  and  from  the  productive 
fields  of  Maryland  and  Virginia. 

At  the  ban(juet  with  which  the  exhil)ition  was  closed, 
at  the  Exchange  Hotel,  the  various  States  of  the  Union 
were  well  represented.  Eloquent  remarks  were  made  l)y 
Gen.  Tench  Tilghman,  who  had  succeeded  Mr.  Wilder  as 
president  of  the  society ;  by  Lord  Napier,  then  the  Brit- 
ish minister  at  Washington  ;  by  Hon.  Caleb  Cusliing,  of 


96  LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

Massachusetts ;  by  Hon.  W.  C  Rives,  of  Virginia,  and 
by  other  gentlemen.  Coh  Benjamin  Alston,  of  South 
Carolina,  after  responding  to  a  toast  complimentary  to 
his  native  State,  gave  as  a  sentiment :  "  The  small  yet 
great  State  of  ]^ew  Hampshire,  which  has  produced 
"Webster,  Woodbury,  Pierce,  and  other  prominent  states- 
men." Mr.  Frederick  Smyth,  of  ]S'ew  Hampshire,  was 
loudly  called  on  to  respond,  which  he  did  in  an  off-hand, 
pleasant,  five-minute  speech,  expressing  his  interest  in  the 
prosperity  of  the  United  States  Agricultural  Society,  and 
the  gratification  which  it  afforded  him  to  attend  its  exhi- 
bitions in  different  States.  These  reunions  of  those  in- 
terested in  agriculture  enable  them  to  compare  personally 
the  different  productions  of  their  respective  States,  and 
their  varied  modes  of  husbandry.  These  very  diversities 
serve  to  unite  them  by  rendering  them  tributaries  to  each 
others'  wants,  to  whom  seedtime  and  harvest,  the  rain 
and  the  frost,  the  canker-worm  and  the  potato-rot,  bring 
the  same  joys  or  troubles,  —  children  of  one  country,  not 
jealous  and  encroaching  rivals.  He  gave  in  conclusion  a 
toast  complimentary  to  the  State  of  Maryland. 

Mr.  Smyth  is  also  a  member  and  a  vice-president  of 
the  American  Pomological  Society,  which,  under  the 
lead  of  the  venerable  Marshall  P.  "Wilder,  "  still  lives," 
and  continues  its  good  work  of  improving  our  fruits. 

These  varied  employments  and  activities  served  to  bring 
Mr.  Smyth  to  the  attention  of  the  State,  and  he  received 
twenty  votes  in  the  convention  of  1859  which  nominated 
Hon.  Ichabod  Goodwin  for  governor.  The  next  A-ear  he 
was  made  president  of  the  nominating  convention,  and 
on  taking  the  chair,  spoke  briefly  as  follows  :  — 

Gentlemen  of  the  Convention  : 

When  I  see  so  many  men  around  me  of  longer  experi- 
ence and  gn^ater  al)ility,  I  wonder  at  your  selection  of  so 


AGRICULTUKAL    SOCIETIES.  97 

humble  a  person  as  myself  to  preside  over  your  delibera- 
tions. But  by  your  friendly  action,  gentlemen,  I  am  en- 
couraged in  assuming  my  duties.  I  know  that  I  am  not 
expected  to  make  a  speech,  after  the  very  eloquent  one  to 
which  you  have  just  listened.  But  I  desire  to  congratu- 
late you  on  the  very  favorable  circumstances  under  which 
we  are  assembled,  and  the  encouraging  auspices  under 
which  we  commence  the  campaign.  The  Republican 
party  was  never  so  strong  in  ISTew  Hampshire  and  in  the 
nation  [cheers],  never  so  well  organized  or  so  thoroughly 
united  in  the  justice  of  their  cause,  as  at  present  [cheers]. 
The  Republican  party  in  Congress,  standing  shoulder  to 
shoulder,  are  challenging  the  admiration  of  the  world 
[cheers],  and  we  believe  that  their  firm  adherence  to  the 
noble  policy  they  are  pursuing  will  continue  till  a  success 
will  be  achieved  which  the  nation  can  be  justly  proud  of. 
And  this  while  the  Democratic  party  are  preaching  noth- 
ing but  disunion  and  slavery  extension.  The  people  will 
examine  the  nol)le  principles  of  the  Republican  party, 
and  seeing  the  issue  clearly  defined,  will  put  into  power 
the  only  true  Union  party.  We  have  been  very  fortunate 
at  all  times  in  having  had  ofiicers  who  have  been  success- 
ful ;  and  we  have  fiiith  in  the  fidelity  of  our  leaders,  and 
in  their  ability  to  render  in  that  service  which  is  accom- 
plished only  by  integrity  and  by  devotion  to  the  true  in- 
terests of  the  country  [applause].  But  let  us  remember 
that  it  is  for  the  principles  of  the  Republican  party,  and 
not  for  men,  that  we  are  contending.  Let  us  be  united  in 
support  of  those  whom  we  nominate  as  exponents  of  those 
principles,  and  they  will  be  sure  to  triumph  [applause]. 

The  seventh  annual  exhibition  of  the  United  States 
Agricultural  Society,  which  was  held  at  Chicago  in  Sep- 
tember, 1859,  had  all  the  great  elements  of  a  national 
convocation.     Fiftv-seven  aijricultural  and  horticultural 


98  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

societies  were  represented  by  delegations  hailing  from 
seventeen  States,  one  Territory,  the  District  of  Columbia, 
and  the  Canadas.  The  vastness  of  the  crowds  that 
thronged  the  grounds  ;  the  perfect  good  order  and  free- 
dom from  accident  to  life  and  limb ;  the  splendid  and 
unequaled  display  of  fine  cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  swine  ; 
the  endless  array  of  agricultural  implements  and  inven- 
tions ;  the  steam  plows,  the  machinery,  and  the  agricul- 
tural products,  —  all  combined  to  render  the  fair  one  of 
the  greatest  occasions  of  the  day  and  age.  Mr.  Smyth's 
executive  and  financial  ability  was  well  tested  on  this  oc- 
casion, and  it  was  by  his  vigilance  that  the  receipts  at  the 
gates  were  upwards  of  $20,000.  Every  night,  before  he 
slept,  the  receipts  of  the  day  were  counted  and  deposited 
in  bank. 

During  the  State  political  campaign,  early  in  1860,  Mr. 
Smyth,  then  president  of  the  Republican  City  Club,  in- 
vited Abraham  Lincoln,  of  Illinois,  who  had  acquired  a 
national  reputation  by  his  contest  with  Stephen  A.  Doug- 
las for  the  United  States  senatorship,  to  speak  at  Man- 
chester. He  was  to  address  the  public  there  at  Smyth's 
Hall  in  the  evening,  and  to  speak  at  Concord  the  previous 
afternoon.  He  came  in  the  early  train  from  Exeter, 
where  his  son  Robert  (since  secretary  of  war),  was  a 
student  at  Phillips  Academy.  Mr.  Smyth  joined  them 
in  the  cars  at  Manchester,  and  he  has  thus  narrated  his 
recollections  of  the  day. 

Mr.  Lincoln,  when  Mr.  Smyth  entered  the  car,  was 
reading  the  Boston  Journal,  and  after  the  usual  inter- 
change of  salutations,  he  remarked  :  "  I  was  just  reading 
Seward's  speech  at  Auburn." 

To  Mr.  Smyth's  question  :  "  What  do  you  think  of  it  ?  " 
he  replied  :  "  I  am  delighted  with  it.  That  speech  will 
make  Mr.  Seward  the  next  President  of  the  United 
States." 


ABRAHAM    LINCOLN.  99 

Mr.  Smyth  said  that  he  had  not  read  the  speech,  but 
he  did  not  believe  that  Mr.  Seward  would  be  the  next 
President.  Arriving  at  Concord,  he  accompanied  Mr. 
Lincoln  and  his  son  to  the  Court  House,  where  the  Mer- 
rimack County  Court  was  in  session.  The  court,  on 
learning  that  Mr.  Lincoln  was  in  the  anteroom,  took  a 
recess,  and  Mr.  Smyth  introduced  the  distinguished 
stranger  to  the  judge  and  the  lawyers,  all  of  whom  were 
delighted  with  the  interview. 

Mr.  Lincoln  spoke  in  the  afternoon  at  Phoenix  Plall, 
Concord,  to  a  crowded  and  enthusiastic  audience.  After 
the  meeting,  he  returned  with  Mr.  Smyth  to  Manchester, 
and  on  the  way  asked  him  what  he  should  say  there  in  the 
evening?  Mr.  Smyth  replied  :  "Say  the  same  thing  you 
said  at  Concord,  as  near  as  possible."  "That,"  replied 
Mr.  Lincoln,  "  I  cannot  do,  as  I  never  wrote  out  a  politi- 
cal speech,  or  made  two  alike." 

At  Smyth's  Hall  at  Manchester  that  evening  every 
seat  was  filled,  and  all  standing  room  was  occupied.  Mr. 
Sm3'th,  who  presided,  introduced  Mr.  Lincoln  as  the 
man  who  had  vanquished  the  Little  Giant  in  Illinois,  and 
who  was  to  be  the  next  President  of  the  L^nited  States. 

Mr.  Lincoln  was  somewhat  embarrassed  by  this  unex- 
pected introduction,  but  made  no  allusion  to  it  in  his 
speech.  He  was  frequently  interrupted  by  Elder  Foss,  a 
sturdy  old  Abolitionist,  until  the  audience  became  pro- 
voked, and  some  cried,  "  Put  liim  out  I  "  Thereupon 
Mr.  Lincoln  said,  "  Xo  !  I  \rmit  you  to  jaw  back.  This 
is  the  man  I  M'anted  to  meet  here."  Then  addressing  his 
questioner,  he  asked,  "  AVhat  did  you  say,  sir  ?  "  Elder 
Foss  then  stated  the  ground  of  his  opposition  to  the  Re- 
publican party,  and  Mr.  Lincoln  replied  so  satisfactorily 
that  the  old  man  l)egan  cheering  with  the  l)oys.  At  the 
close  of  the  meeting,  he  was  the  first  man  among  the 
audience  to  hasten  up  on  the  platform,  and  congratulate 
tlio  speaker. 


100  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

After  the  meeting,  Mr.  Smyth  accompanied  Mr.  Lin- 
coln to  his  room  at  the  City  Hotel.  Master  Robert,  be- 
ing very  drowsy,  was  put  to  bed,  and  Mr.  Smyth  then  sat 
for  an  hour  or  more  conversing  wdth  Mr.  Lincoln  on  the 
political  prospects  of  the  country  and  his  recent  contest  in 
Illinois  with  Mr,  Douglas.  Mr.  Lincoln  remarked  that 
the  introduction  at  the  meeting  that  evening  had  taken 
him  by  surprise,  he  never  having  been  so  introduced  be- 
fore ;  *'  but,  of  course,"  said  he,  "  you  did  n't  mean  any- 
thing ?  "  Mr.  Smyth  remarked  that  he  did  believe  what 
he  had  said,  and  that  if  he  had  made  the  same  impres- 
sion in  the  other  States  where  he  had  spoken  that  he  had 
made  that  day  on  the  people  of  New-  Hampshire,  he 
would  certainly  receive  the  presidential  nomination. 
Mr.  Lincoln  replied,  with  earnestness :  "  l!^o !  JSTo ! 
That  is  impossible.  Mr.  Seward  should  and  wall  receive 
the  nomination.  I  do  not  believe  that  three  States  will 
vote  for  me  in  the  convention." 

Mr.  Lincoln  having  expressed  a  desire  to  see  some  of 
the  manufactories  of  Manchester  before  leaving,  the  next 
morning,  at  ten  o'clock,  Mr.  Smyth  called  at  the  hotel 
immediately  after  breakfast,  and  escorted  him  to  the 
Manchester  Print  Works.  After  witnessing  the  different 
descriptions  of  w^ork,  Mr.  Lincoln  was  about  to  leave  for 
the  cars,  when  the  agent,  Waterman  Smith,  Esq.,  pre- 
sented him  with  a  dozen  pair  of  hose.  Accepting  them 
wdth  thanks,  he  put  them  under  his  arm,  remarking  that 
he  did  n't  want  any  paper  wrapped  around  them,  but 
preferred  carrying  them  as  they  were.  The  agent  said  to 
Mr.  Lincoln  that  he  gave  liim  the  stockings  for  the  pur- 
pose of  influencing  him  in  favor  of  an  increase  of  the 
duty  on  imported  goods  of  this  character  when  he  should 
become  President,  that  our  home  industry  might  be  pro- 
tected. Mr.  Lincoln  replied  that  he  would  certainly  do 
80,  and  oif  they  trudged  to  the  railroad  station. 


ABRAHAM    LINCOLN.  101 

When  Mr.  Smyth  next  met  Mr.  Lincoln,  it  was  at  the 
"White  House,  and  he  pleasantly  alluded  to  his  visit  to 
Manchester.  Mr.  Smyth  asked  him  what  he  had  done 
with  the  stockings,  and  he  replied :  "  I  have  worn  out 
one  pair,  and  have  a  second  pair  on  now."  Pulling  up 
his  pantaloons  to  show  them,  he  added,  "  I  guess  they  are 
rather  dirty." 

The  interviews  of  Mr.  Smyth  and  Mr.  Lincoln  after 
this  were  many,  and  they  were  all  pleasant,  seasoned  as 
they  were  with  the  anecdotes  for  which  the  first  martyr 
President  was  so  noted,  and  which  he  used  as  parables 
for  the  expression  of  his  thoughts. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

THE    WAR    OF    THE    REBELLION. FIRST    VISIT    TO    EUROPE. 

In  October,  1860,  the  United  States  Agricultural  So- 
ciety held  its  eighth  annual  exhibition  at  Cincinnati,  O. 
The  atmosphere  was  disturbed  by  the  coming  political 
storm,  but  the  cultivators  of  the  country  and  their  co- 
workers were  not  to  be  dissuaded  from  assembling  at 
their  national  rallying  point.  Although  the  exhibition 
was  not  announced  until  within  a  few  weeks  of  its  open- 
ing-, and  its  manao-ers  had  to  contend  with  manv  unfore- 
seen  obstacles,  besides  trying  the  experiment  of  protract- 
ing the  term,  there  was  nevertheless  a  highly  creditable 
display  in  almost  every  department.  The  pecuniary 
profits  did  not  realize  the  expectations  entertained,  but 
the  list  of  awards  show  the  varied  character  of  the  entries, 
with  the  liberal  manner  in  which  the  society  was  enabled 
to  reward  exhibitors,  and  that  from  the  receipts.  All  ad- 
mitted that  the  voluntary  assemblage  of  thousands  of  cit- 
izens of  different  States  could  but  have  exercised  a  ben- 
eficial influence,  for  a  wide  field  was  opened  for  the 
friendly  interchange  of  thought  upon  every  branch  of 
that  agricultural  industry  which  has  conquered,  and  now 
cultivates,  the  greatest  area  of  territory  ever  peopled  by 
one  race. 

When  the  United  States  Agricultural  Society  held  its 
ninth  annual  meeting  at  "Washington  on  the  second 
"Wednesday  in  January,  1861,  Mr.  Smyth  detected  a  plot 
for  transferring  the  government  of  the  society  into 
Southern  hands.  A  number  of  Baltimoreans,  who  had 
joined  as  annual  members,  were    to  attend  the  second 


THE    WAR    OF    THE    REBELLION.  103 

day's  session,  and  it  was  expected  by  their  votes  to  elect 
a  ticket  composed  entirely  of  Southerners,  who  would 
thus  have  been  enabled  to  make  the  society  an  append- 
age to  the  "  Confederacy  "  about  to  be  inaugurated.  Mr. 
Smyth  accidentally  hearing  of  this  scheme  by  the  prema- 
ture boasting  of  one  of  its  leaders,  passed  the  evening  in 
recruiting  for  members  among  the  numerous  Northern 
men  in  "Washington,  who  paid  their  initiation  fees  and 
signed  the  constitution.  The  next  day,  when  the  society 
met,  the  JSTortherners  had  a  good  working  majority,  and 
they  triumphantly  re-elected  the  old  board  of  officers. 

The  assault  upon  Fort  Sumter,  in  1861,  aroused  a  feel- 
ing of  indignation  throughout  the  loyal  Jl^orth,  and  every 
city,  town,  and  hamlet  resounded  with  the  drum-beat  "  to 
arms."  Party  lines  were  obliterated,  and  stalwart  citizens, 
inspired  by  a  sublime  energy,  hastened  to  the  support  of 
the  Stars  and  Stripes.  Citizens  who  were  too  old  to  go 
to  the  front,  or  who  were  otherwise  incapacitated  for  mili- 
tary service,  became  recruiting  officers,  while  the  ladies 
saw  that  the  brave  boys  in  blue  were  provided  with  flan- 
nel underclothing  and  other  articles  not  supplied  by  the 
General  Government.  Regiment  after  regiment  went  to 
the  front,  with  unbronzed  faces,  constrained  garments, 
and  national  ensigns,  whose  silken  folds  were  fresh  from 
the  hands  of  those  who  had  presented  them.  AVhile  they 
were  the  saviours  of  the  Republic,  they  were  also  the 
agents  of  Divine  Providence  for  the  solution  of  a  great 
moral  problem,  the  overthrow  of  slavery.  Though  leav- 
ing a  trackless  waste  behind  them,  they  opened  up  a  way 
for  the  advance  of  civilization,  and  with  their  shafts  and 
thunderbolts  cooled,  cleared,  and  puriiied  the  political 
atmosphere,  which  was  becoming  overheated,  foul,  and 
corrupt.  Their  thinking  bayonets  dispelled  the  mental 
darkness  of  the  ISTorth,  and  breaking  through  the  moral 
penumbra  enshrouding  the  South,  fitted  the  States  for  a 
reunion  upon  higher,  nobler,  and  broader  grounds. 


104  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Mr.  Smyth  took  an  active  part  in  sending  forward  the 
first  regiments  of  I^ew  Hampshire  troops,  which  many 
believed  would  be  all  that  would  be  required,  as  it  had 
been  predicted  by  one  high  in  authority  that  hostilities 
would  be  ended  in  thirty  days.  He  was,  however,  called 
away,  having  previously  accepted  an  appointment  as  one 
of  the  commissioners  on  the  part  of  the  General  Govern- 
ment from  IS^ew  Hampshire  to  the  International  Exhibi- 
tion of  1862,  at  London.  It  was  found  by  him  on  his 
arrival  that  only  three  of  the  commissioners  from  the 
United  States  were  in  attendance,  and  that  nothing  had 
been  done  towards  arranging  the  exhibits  in  the  space 
allotted  to  America.  Mr.  Smyth  at  once  went  to  work 
with  his  accustomed  energy,  and,  aided  by  his  associates, 
S3,000  was  raised  by  subscription  from  patriotic  citizens 
of  the  United  States  then  in  London,  Platforms  were 
constructed,  painters  and  decorators  set  at  work,  and  an 
arrangement  of  American  flags  were  so  placed  that  no 
person  —  "  secesh  "  or  otherwise  —  could  enter  the  Amer- 
ican Department  without  passing  under  the  "  Stars  and 
Stripes." 

While  Mr.  Smyth  was  abroad,  he  wrote  a  series  of  let- 
ters to  a  friend  at  home,  who  furnished  extracts  from  them 
for  publication  in  the  Xew  Hampshire  Journal  of  Agri- 
culture, from  whence  they  are  now  copied.  The  editor, 
in  publishing  the  first  installment,  said  :  "  Mr.  Smyth's 
acquaintances,  and  they  are  very  numerous,  know  that 
he  makes  no  pretension  to  be  called  a  man  of  letters. 
]S'evertheless,  his  impressions,  fresh  and  oft-hand  in  man- 
ner, give  a  very  interesting  idea  of  England  as  seen  from 
his  standpoint.  We  may  remai'k  that  the  ofiicial  position 
held  by  him  gives  uncommon  facilities  for  observation, 
and  although,  as  usual,  he  is  doing  the  work  of  five  men 
in  the  discharge  of  the  duties  assigned  him,  nothing 
seems  to  escape  his  notice." 


FIRST   VISIT   TO    EUROPE.  105 

Of  the  people  at  the  opening  of  the  exhibition,  Mr. 
Smyth  wrote  :  "  Such  dresses  as  the  ladies  wore  I  never 
imagined.  I  stepped  on  the  trail  of  many  a  dress  that 
day  which  cost  at  least  ten  thousand  dollars.  You  may 
think  this  rather  steep,  but  it  is  true.  Some  of  the  first 
and  richest  men  and  women  of  all  nations  of  the  w^orld 
were  there.  .  .  .  The  picture  gallery  alone  is  half  a 
mile  in  length,  reckoning  its  various  sections  forty-five 
feet  wide  and  twenty-five  feet  high,  the  walls  covered  with 
works  of  the  best  artists  in  the  world.  The  department 
of  sculpture  is  about  as  extensive,  and  so  on  through  the 
whole.  It  would  take  one  three  months  to  look  at  all  the 
articles  in  the  building.  As  the  common  people  are  not 
admitted  until  June,  the  visitors  are  very  select,  rich,  and 
dressy.  .  .  .  Everything  about  the  whole  style  of 
apparel  seems  to  consist  of  one  easy,  flowing  drapery, 
thrown  carelessly  yet  gracefully  on,  and  looking  as  though 
it  might  drop  oif  as  easily  as  put  on.  Seemingly  nothing 
needs  to  be  untied  or  unhooked,  and  yet  I  have  not  seen 
any  dresses  fall  ofl^,  and  indeed  the  ladies  don't  seem  to 
trouble  themselves  at  all  with  the  idea  that  they  may  do 
so.  .  .  .  Women  do  not  receive  so  much  attention 
here  as  at  home,  a  gentleman  rarely  giving  up  his  seat  to 
one,  consequently  when  such  is  the  case,  the  acknowledg- 
ment of  the  courtesy  is  very  marked. 

"  I  have  not  heard  so  much  profanity  since  I  have  been 
in  London  as  may  be  sometimes  heard  in  Manchester  in 
one  day,  though  I  daily  pass  a  crowd  three  miles  long. 
Perfect  order  and  quiet  prevails.  The  Sabbath  is  respected 
about  the  same  as  with  us,  until  5  p.  m.,  when  the  liquor 
shops  are  opened.  Carriages  passing  any  church  during 
service  must  walk  their  horses.  The  streets  are  kept  in 
fine  order, — on  some  of  them  the  crowd  continues  all 
night  without  apparent  diminution.  The  chiming  of  bells 
on  the  Sabbath  is  delightful,  many  of  them  being  high- 


106  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

toned  and  soft  as  a  piano.  The  parks  are  finely  kept. 
In  Hyde  Park  may  be  seen  hundreds  of  ladies  on  horse- 
back elegantly  mounted.  The  weather  has  been  delight- 
ful since  I  have  been  here,  in  that  respect  differing  from 
what  I  had  been  led  to  expect.  Indeed,  in  most  things,  I 
must  conclude  that  I  am  seeing  London  from  a  most 
favorable  standpoint,  and  am  indebted  to  my  position  for 
extraordinary  facilities,  which  I  shall  not  fail  to  improve. 

"  I  have  been  through  Westminster  Abbey,  seen  all 
the  tombs,  and  read  the  inscriptions  over  the  kings, 
queens,  and  great  men  and  women  of  the  earth,  buried 
here,  some  of  them  eight  hundred  years  ago.  On  most 
of  the  tombs  are  sculptured  likenesses  of  the  tenants  in 
stone,  bronze,  and  marble.  Have  visited  Parliament, 
which  sits  nights,  the  members  with  hats  on ;  also 
have  seen  the  Tower,  laid  my  hand  and  neck  on  the 
block  where  Anne  Boleyn  Avas  beheaded,  saw  the  axe 
and  felt  its  edge,  also  the  block  and  axe  by  which  the 
Lady  Jane  Grey  suffered  death  in  1553. 

"  In  the  interior  of  this  Tower,  where  so  many  polit- 
ical prisoners  were  executed  in  the  early  history  of 
England,  I  saw  the  $15,000,000  worth  of  crown  jewels. 
The  Tower  is  a  good  study  for  a  week.  Have  visited 
many  of  the  celebrated  gardens  and  parks,  Greenwich 
Observatory,  Bank  of  England,  Ro3'al  Exchange,  British 
and  Kensington  Museum,  and  ascended  the  dome  of  St. 
Paul's.  Fifteen  miles  out,  I  visited  Hampton  Court,  the 
birthplace  and  residence  of  kings  and  queens  innumer- 
able. The  rooms  of  the  palace  are  all  preserved  in  the 
same  condition  as  when  occupied  by  royalty,  —  furni- 
ture, painting,  beds,  and  bed-clothes;  all  the  walls  of  the 
halls  and  rooms  covered  with  paintings  of  the  noble  fam- 
ilies of  Europe  for  centuries. 

"  At  Richmond,  near  by,  I  visited  the  house  where 
Pope'  lived,  and  the  Orleans  place,  where  the  French  ex- 


FIRST   VISIT   TO    EUROPE.  107 

Queen  Amelie  resides  with  her  son  the  Duke  cle 
Nemours  and  Princess  Maria  Clementine.  The  ex- 
queen,  accompanied  by  her  son  and  daughter,  visited  the 
exhibition  the  other  day.  I  was  interested  to  see  how  the 
French  would  treat  her  when  she  went  through  that  de- 
partment. It  was  with  the  most  marked  respect,  many  of 
them  shedding  tears,  yet  she  or  any  of  her  family  would 
not  be  allowed  to  enter  France  on  any  conditions.  There 
is  evidently  great  affection  and  pity  for  her  among  the 
French,  but  they  cannot  express  it  in  France.  It  is  said 
that  the  Emperor's  detectives  secretly  watched  her,  to 
report  her  movements." 


CHAPTER    X. 

ENGLISH    TRAITS    AND    CUSTOMS. 

Mr.  Smyth  was  a  close  observer  of  the  attitude  of 
Englishmen  on  our  home  troubles.  "  In  regard  to 
American  affairs,"  he  wrote,  "  I  do  not  think  there  is  a 
particle  of  danger  of  any  interference  from  England,  or 
has  ever  been ;  most  people  sympathize  with  Americans 
and  the  xs'orth,  when  they  fairly  understand  the  issue. 
I  listened  to  a  discussion  in  Parliament  upon  the  distress 
in  some  parts  of  England,  among  the  working  classes,  for 
want  of  cotton ;  and  although  the  American  question 
came  directly  in  debate,  nothing  was  said  to  which  any 
K'orthern  man  could  take  exception.  There  is  not  so 
much  tobacco  used  as  in  America,  neither  is  the  organ  of 
destructiveness  so  largely  developed  as  in  ours.  No  cut 
and  hacked  seats  or  fences  are  seen  in  the  park  or  any- 
where else.  Every  variety  of  flowers  are  scattered  over 
the  parks,  but  nobody  thinks  of  touching  one,  or  tree  or 
shrub,  though  all  classes  have  access  to  them.  Xo  notices 
'  Xot  to  touch,'  but  such  as  this  I  noticed  in  one  of  the 
public  gardens :  '  The  public  are  expected  to  preserve 
what  is  intended  for  public  enjoyment.'  What  do  you 
suppose  Manchester  boys  and  girls,  who  steal  fruit  and 
flowers,  would  care  for  such  a  notice  ?  Yet  it  is  sufficient 
here. 

"  Old  buildings  are  rarely  torn  down  or  painted ;  the 
people  have  a  veneration  for  everything  old.  Hair  dye 
is  not  used,  but  ecray  hair  is  preferred,  and  thousands  of 
youngish  men  powder  their  hair  to  make  it  appear  gray. 
Ladies  with  gray  and  white  hair  take  especial  pains  to  dis- 


ENGLISH    TRAITS    AND    CUSTOMS.  109 

play  it.  I  see  hundreds  of  ladies  wear  white  or  gray  hair 
curled  and  elaborately  dressed,  and  it  looks  finely.  I  see 
no  portrait  of  "Washington  or  any  American  statesman, 
except  some  of  the  old  Tories  of  the  Revolution,  but 
splendid  ones  of  all  English  statesmen  and  officers  of 
every  kind  and  grade. 

"  In  Paris,  while  at  the  imperial  circus,  the  American 
flag  was  brought  in  on  some  occasio-n  between  the  acts, 
and  was  received  with  most  enthusiastic  cheers.  You 
may  be  sure  that  my  voice  was  raised  to  its  utmost 
capacity. 

"  Among  other  cities,  I  have  visited  Manchester, 
Chester,  Birmingham,  Stratford-on-Avon,  Warwick  and 
Warwick  Castle,  Leamington,  Kenilworth,  Oxford,  Read- 
ing, Brighton,  etc.,  and  have  been  to  the  Epsom  races,  a 
great  institution  here.  Spent  a  day  at  Chester,  the  oldest 
city  in  England;  its  cathedral  is  a  thousand  years  old. 
It  is  a  \^'alled  city ;  one  part  of  the  wall  was  built  by  the 
Romans  about  the  time  of  the  Christian  era.  Under- 
ground may  still  be  seen  a  stone  bath  and  crypt,  both  of 
Roman  origin.  I  examined  these  relics  with  great  inter- 
est, and  secured  pieces  to  bring  home.  Many  of  the 
houses  are  supposed  to  be  from  live  hundred  to  one 
thousand  years  old ;  one  oak  frame  house  has  the  date 
1003  on  its  gable  and  on  one  other  timber,  which  is,  by 
unquestionable  authority,  the  true  date.  Brighton  is  on 
the  sea-shore  fifty  miles  from  London,  and  really  '  Lon- 
don out  of  town.'  Here  the  rich  Londoners  spend  the 
hot  season.  It  is  delightfully- situated,  having  five  miles 
of  beach.  L^nlike  I^ewport,  the  fine  houses  are  built 
close  together,  on  the  beach. "  The  city  has  80,000  inhab- 
itants, and  is  entirely  supported  by  the  people  who  visit 
there. 

"  A  reception  by  Mr.  Baring,  M.  P.,  the  English  banker, 
and    one    of  her   majesty's  commissioners  for  the    exhi- 


110  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

bition,  was  given  at  the  CiTstal  Palace  at  Sydenham  last 
Friday.  The  hours  of  our  invitation  were  from  3  to  7 
o'clock,  P.M.;  the  palace  and  its  splendid  gardens  were 
appropriated  to  his  guests.  Blondin  performed  in  the 
garden,  where  were  stationed  two  of  the  best  bands  in 
England,  sixty  pieces  each.  The  Handel  and  Haydn 
Society  held  forth  in  the  great  music  hall,  the  hundred 
fountains  were  playing,  and  numerous  attractions  of  other 
kinds  were  seen  everywhere.  Guests  began  to  eat  as 
soon  as  they  arrived ;  a  table  was  set  in  the  entrance  hall, 
more  than  200  feet  long,  laden  with  varieties  of  choice 
fruit,  every  conceivable  kind  of  pastry,  cold  meats,  ices, 
wines,  etc.,  everything  selected  of  the  very  best  kind. 
For  instance,  every  strawberry  was  of  perfect  form  and 
immense  size,  every  bunch  of  grapes  was  like  the  sample 
bunches  you  sometimes  see  in  windows  in  Boston  and 
Xew  York.  As  soon  as  anything  was  taken,  it  was  im- 
mediately replaced,  so  when  the  guests  left,  the  tables 
were  just  as  handsomely  loaded  and  arranged  as  when 
they  arrived.  This,  however,  was  but  the  whetting  of 
the  appetite,  before  we  were  introduced.  After  passing 
through  the  reception  rooms,  we  went  where  we  pleased 
about  the  buildings  or  gardens.  Xear  by  the  reception 
rooms  diimer  was  served  with  seats  for  every  guest,  where 
one  could  go  where  he  liked,  and  have  any  kind  of  fish, 
flesh,  or  fowl  I  ever  saw,  heard,  or  read  of.  There  were 
one  thousand  people  in  all,  and  ladies  composed  about  one 
half  of  the  company. 

"  I  attended  a  banquet  given  by  the  lady  mayoress  at 
the  Mansion  House  residence  of  the  lord  mayor.  This 
entertainment  in  many  respects  surpassed  that  of  Mr. 
Baring.  There  were  1,400  present,  and  yet  no  crowd, 
the  mansion  is  so  large.  The  dancing  and  supper  halls 
were  each  of  them  more  elegant  than  the  senate  chamber 
at  Washington,  and  the  whole  mansion  is  furnished  su- 


ENGLISH    TRAITS    AND    CUSTOMS.  Ill 

perbly.  There  were  at  least  800  ladies  present.  The 
daii<»:hter  of  the  lord  mayor,  a  pretty  young  lady,  received 
and  shook  hands  with  every  guest,  which  took  her  till 
twelve  o'clock,  and  then  she  danced  continuously  till  half- 
past  four,  one  hour  after  daylight,  when  I  left. 

"  The  Americans  in  London  will  celebrate  the  Fourth 
of  Jul}^  by  a  great  dinner ;  consequently  I  shall  remain, 
and  intend  to  leave  for  Germany,  Switzerland,  Italy,  etc., 
the  day  following. 

"  Towards  night  we  rode  four  miles  from  the  palace  to 
the  churchyard,  which  is  the  scene  of  Gray's  immortal 
elegy,  and  where  he  now  sleeps  in  a  humble  grave  beside 
that  of  his  mother,  as  he  desired.  A  monument  has  been 
erected  to  his  memory  a  little  out  of  the  churchyard,  for 
there  is  not  room  within.  The  same  old  church  without 
alteration,  the  same  yew  trees  which  were  there  when  he 
wrote  and  which  helped  inspire  the  elegy,  still  remain ; 
and  while  we  were  there  gathering  Howcrs  from  his  grave 
at  sundown,  breathing  in  the  inspiration  of  the  beautiful 
scene,  the  '  curfew '  tolled  its  evening  vesper  as  of  old. 
Xothing  was  wanting  to  increase  the  interest  of  the  time. 
Xot  far  from  here  is  tlie  old  family  seat  of  William 
Penn  ;  also  Eton  College,  founded  by  Henry  VI  in  1441. 

"  AVindsor  Castle  has  been  for  many  years  the  abode  of 
the  sovereigns  of  England.  The  Round  Tower  is  800 
years  old.  The  household  consists  of  350  persons.  The 
park  consists  of  9,660  acres,  almost  entirely  covered  with 
immense  old  trees  except  the  walks  and  drives.  Nothing 
can  be  imagined  more  beautiful  than  the  view  from  the 
top  of  the  castle,  —  views  into  the  counties  of  Berks, 
Jk'dford,  Brooks,  Oxford,  and  Middlesex,  in  which  last 
named  is  London,  twenty-two  miles  distant.  The  Thames 
winds  its  course  close  by  the  foot  of  the  palace.  Volumes 
might  be  tilled  in  descril)ing  the  interesting  objects  in  this 
neighborhood.     The  Ascot  race-grounds   are  about  eight 


112  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

miles  from  here.  The  annual  races  came  off  a  week  ago. 
Of  course  I  was  there  to  see,  as  also  at  Epsom  to  see  the 
Derby  and  Oaks  the  week  before. 

"  One  of  the  most  pleasant  fetes  I  have  attended  was  at 
Hatfield  House,  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  at  Hat- 
field, nearly  twenty  miles  out  of  London.  This  is  said  to 
be  one  of  the  finest  houses,  and  surrounded  by  the  most 
beautiful  grounds,  of  any  in  England.  They  are  many 
hundred  acres  in  extent  and  admirably  laid  out.  Walks 
miles  in  length,  shaded  by  immense  rows  of  old  trees  and 
lined  with  every  variety  of  flowers.  Lawns  kept  smooth 
as  a  house  floor,  acres  of  them,  every  variety  of  hill  and 
dale ;  brooks,  waterfalls,  and  fountains  interspersed ; 
bands  of  music  were  stationed  at  various  points  in  the 
forests  and  grounds,  and  in  the  palace. 

"  The  guests  strolled  about  where  they  pleased  in 
palace,  forest,  avenues,  among  the  acres  of  flowers,  and 
through  the  stables,  kept  neat  as  a  parlor,  every  horse 
and  pony  with  silver-mounted  harness  waiting  to  be  in- 
spected. Everywhere  seats  and  chairs  were  found,  that 
one  might  rest  as  often  as  desirable.  Refreshments  of 
every  name  and  nature  were  provided  in  various  places. 
Lord  and  Lady  S,  received  their  guests  on  the  lawn  in 
front  of  the  palace,  from  two  to  eight  o'clock,  p.  m.  Many 
celebrities  were  present,  and  people  claiming  to  have  the 
best  blood  of  England  (whatever  that  may  be)  in  their 
veins.  The  Marquis  of  Lansdowne ;  the  ex-Queen  of 
France,  and  members  of  the  Orleans  family;  the  great 
parliamentary  orator,  Mr.  Gladstone,  and  his  lady  ;  Mr. 
Disraeli  and  lad}- ;  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Marlborough, 
etc.  The  American  minister,  Mr.  Adams,  and  his  wife 
were  present,  and  in  fact  no  small  fry  except  myself. 
Lady  Salisbury  was  dressed  in  simple  white,  and  wore  a 
black  hat.  She  received  her  guests  in  an  easy,  unaflected 
manner.     All  ages  were  present,  from  sixteen  to  ninety, 


ENGLISH    TKAITS    AND    CUSTOMS.  113 

and  I  never  saw  such  handsome  old  women.  Carriages 
and  people  here  turn  to  the  left  instead  of  to  the  right,  as 
with  us.  I  discovered  this  the  day  I  arrived,  after  run- 
ning into  a  fat  woman,  from  whose  flowing  drapery  it 
took  me  some  time  to  disentangle  myself;  since  then  I 
have  turned  to  the  left  and  passed  safely. 

"  By  courtesy  of  the  governor  of  the  Bank  of  England, 
I  was  allowed  to  see  the  private  apartments  of  that  great 
institution,  and  to  inspect  every  operation  in  detail.  The 
banking  rooms  cover  four  and  a  half  acres.  It  employs 
1,000  clerks  and  others  all  the  time,  manufactures  its  own 
paper,  books,  and  ink,  does  its  own  printing  all  within  the 
bank.  I  had  the  privilege  of  examining  their  books, 
manner  of  doing  business,  etc." 


CHAPTER    XI. 

AGRICULTURE    IN    ENGLAND. 

Mr,  Smyth  had  also  been  commissioned  by  the  United 
States  Agricultural  Society  to  represent  it  in  England 
and  on  the  continent  of  Europe.  In  this  capacity,  he 
attended  the  annual  exhibition  of  the  Royal  Agricultural 
Society,  which  was  held  in  Battersea  Park  in  1862.  "  It 
is  said,''  he  wrote,  "  to  be  the  greatest  show  of  horses, 
cattle,  sheep,  and  swine,  and  farming  implements,  ever 
held  in  the  world.  The  pens  containing  the  animals  upon 
exhibition  measure  tive  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  and 
such  animals  I  never  saw  before.  Specimens  from  all 
parts  of  Europe  were  here.  Some  of  the  work-horses 
weighed  2,400  pounds.  Carriage  horses  are  about  as 
large  as  ours,  but  the  work-horses  are  nearly  twice  as 
heavy.  Thev  are  kept  entirely  distinct,  and  never  bred 
together.  The  Swiss  cows  wore  bells  on  their  necks,  of 
sweet  tone,  often  quite  large,  and  held  by  an  ornamental 
strap.  French  stock  is  not  equal  to  the  English ;  it  is 
nearly  all  black  or  speckled.  Most  of  the  Scotch  cattle 
have  no  horns,  but  are  very  fine  animals. 

"  I  attended  a  trial  of  steam  plowing  and  digging,  but 
did  not  think  the  machines  worked  as  well  as  some  I  saw 
at  Chicago,  at  the  exhibition  of  the  United  States  Agri- 
cultural Society.  In  agricultural  implements  we  are 
ahead  of  England,  certainly  in  quality  if  not  in  quantity. 
Our  forks,  plows,  and  mowing-machines  are  far  better 
than  theirs.  In  stock-sheep  and  work-horses  they  beat 
us,  but  not  in  carriage  or  family  horses.  The  short- 
horned  Durham  cattle  predominate  here  over  all  other 


AGRICULTUKE    IN   ENGLAND.  115 

blood.  I  saw  one  bull  of  this  breed  sold  for  $4,000,  and 
one  stock-horse  for  $25,000." 

Again  he  writes  :  "  In  company  with  C.  L.  Flint,  Esq., 
secretary  of  the  Massachusetts  Board  of  Agriculture,  and 
Dr.  J.  "W.  Hoyt,  editor  of  the  "Wisconsin  Farmer,  I  vis- 
ited "Windsor  Castle,  where  the  queen  now  resides.  "We 
visited  the  state  apartments,  and  the  queen's  model  farm, 
dairy,  stock,  etc.  The  dairy  house  is  of  white  marble, 
floor,  ceiling,  and  walls  of  china,  with  water  constantly 
running  around  the  room,  the  evaporation  of  which  keeps 
the  rooms  sweet  and  cool.  The  milk-pans  are  of  white 
china,  and  everything  is  as  neat  as  it  can  possibly  be 
made.  I  drank  some  of  the  milk.  The  stables,  poultry 
houses,  and  all  their  surroundings,  are  much  nicer  than 
the  houses  of  many  of  her  subjects." 

Mr.  Smyth  also  visited  the  model  experimental  farm  of 
Great  Britain,  of  which  he  wrote  :  "  Tiptree  farm,  owned 
by  Alderman  Mechi,  is  situated  on  Tiptree  Heath,  an  ex- 
tensive tract  of  barren  land  about  forty  miles  from  Lon- 
don, at  the  Calverton  station.  Mr.  Mechi's  desire  seems 
to  have  been  to  employ  his  capital  in  some  business  that 
would  pay ;  and  being  a  man  of  enterprise  and  ingenuity, 
he  purchased  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  this 
]>oor  heath  for  the  purpose  of  trying  an  experiment  on 
li(piid  manure.  That  it  might  pay,  his  buildings  were  all 
of  the  plainest  and  most  substantial  kind,  nothing  being 
spent  for  ornament.  His  stables  were  floored  with  nar- 
row slats,  through  the  spaces  l)etween  which  all  the  ma- 
nure Avas  washed.  He  has  a  small,  cheap  steam-engine 
by  which  water  is  forced  upon  the  floors,  and  the  manure 
carried  into  a  vast  reservoir.  He  uses  no  litter,  believ- 
ing that  cattle  fatten  faster  and  live  more  healthily  with- 
out it.  All  his  straw  is  cut  up  and  mixed  with  roots,  oil 
cake,  and  grass  for  fodder.  He  considers  straw  worth  at 
least  $10  a  ton  for  this  purpose,  or  half  the  value  of  hay. 
The  power  derived  from  the  steam-engine  cuts  the  fod- 


116  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

der,  grinds  the  corn,  pumps  the  liquid  manure  upon  the 
land,  and  is  applied  to  every  possible  purpose,  saving  the 
labor  of  many  hands.  Mr.  Mechi  employs  but  four  men ; 
his  crops  are  wheat  and  grass.  The  grass  is  cut  three 
times  a  year,  and  much  of  it  fed  green  to  stock.  From 
fifty  to  sixty  bushels  of  wheat  per  acre  is  considered  a 
good  crop.  He  sows  to  the  acre,  one  bushel  of  wheat, 
two  of  oats,  or  one  and  a  half  of  barley.  The  stock  is 
kept  up  all  the  time,  and  Mr.  Mechi  estimates  that  the 
amount  of  fodder  required  by  one  animal  running  at 
large  will  be  sufiicient  for  three  when  kept  up.  In  this 
his  experience  agrees  with  that  of  Mr.  Quincy,  in  his 
treatise  on  the  soiling  of  cattle.  Being  asked  if  he  did 
not  think  it  hard  for  cattle  to  lay  and  stand  on  slats,  he 
said  that  actual  experiment  had  convinced  him  to  the 
contrar}' ;  that  the  cattle  on  the  slats  fatted  better  and 
lodged  more  comfortably  than  those  on  straw.  It  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  everything  is  washed  scrupulously 
clean  several  times  a  day,  and  that  the  climate  is  not  so 
severe  as  our  own.  The  land  is  thoroughly  under- 
drained  with  tile  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches  in 
diameter.  At  intervals  over  the  farm  there  are  open  res- 
ervoirs into  which  the  water  flows,  being  like  cool  spring 
water.  In  the  middle  of  each  plot  of  twelve  acres  is  a 
hydrant  which  receives  the  liquid  manure,  from  whence 
it  is  distributed  by  hose  like  that  of  a  fire-engine,  over 
the  soil.  The  manure  is  applied  once  a  week.  Before 
being  pumped  out,  a  large  hose  is  let  down  into  the  great 
vat,  and  air  forced  through  so  as  to  mix  it  thoroughlv. 
Mr.  Mechi  thinks  he  has  established  two  or  three  truths 
by  his  experiments  ;  and  first,  that  farming  will  pay.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  the  land  was  absolutely  worth- 
less to  begin  Avith,  and  that  the  application  of  manure 
alone  produces  the  crops.  On  his  entire  capital  invested, 
he  makes  seven  and  a  half  per  cent,  a  large  rate  of  in- 
terest in  a  country  where  three  per  cent  is  considered  a 


AGRICULTURE    IN    ENGLAND.  117 

fair  return.  Secondly,  he  has  proved  the  value  of  straw 
used  as  fodder  when  mixed  with  roots  to  be  quite  one 
half  that  of  hay ;  and  thirdly,  that  straw  can  be  econom- 
ically used  in  farm  labor. 

"  In  his  reception-room  a  large  book  is  kept,  in  which 
visitors  are  requested  to  write  their  names  and  opinion  of 
his  system.  He  was  especially  desirous  that  the  real 
opinion  should  be  expressed,  and  being  a  shrewd  man, 
doubtless  profited  by  the  suggestions  and  criticisms 
made." 

While  observing  agricultural  matters,  Mr.  Smyth  con- 
tinued to  pay  the  strictest  attention  to  his  duties  as  a 
United  States  commissioner  to  the  World's  Exhibition. 
He  saw  that  every  article  entered  for  premium  was 
brought  to  the  notice  of  the  proper  board  of  judges,  by 
whom  it  might  have  been  otherwise  overlooked,  and  the 
United  States  thus  received  an  unusually  large  propor- 
tion of  medals.  He  also  took  occasion,  whenever  an  op- 
portunity presented  itself,  to  say  a  word  in  defense  of  the 
Union,  and  against  the  sympathy  with  secession  then 
manifesting  itself.  Among  the  letters  received  by  him,' 
was  the  following,  from  Mr.  George  Wallis.  Mr.  Wallis 
had  made,  in  1853,  a  report  to  the  British  government 
on  the  manufactures  of  the  United  States,  which  was 
considered  as  so  important  that  its  reprint  was  ordered 
in  1862.  Mr.  Smyth,  before  leaving  for  the  United 
States,  made  application  for  a  copy  of  this  report,  that  he 
might  communicate  it  to  the  authorities  at  Washington, 
and  in  due  time  he  received  this  letter :  — 

16  ViCTOKIA  Row,  TlLIIAM  lloAD, 

London,  Xov.  6,  1862. 
My  Dear  Sir  : 

To-morrow  I  hope  to  deliver  into  the  hands  of  persons 
acting  for  the  United  States  at  the  International  Exhibi- 
tion, a  parcel  containing  the  government  copy  of  my 
report  on  the  manufactures  of  the  United  States  in  1853? 


H8  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

as  presented  to  Parliament,  and  which  I  obtained  after  I 
last  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you,  as  also  a  certificate 
respecting  Messrs.  Gardner  Brewer  &  Co.'s  goods,  which 
I  promised  to  either  give  or  obtain  for  you.  I  regret  I 
did  not  see  you  as  you  passed  through  London,  but  I  was 
at  Paris  with  Mrs.  Wallis  at  the  time  you  returned  from 
the  Continent.  May  I  ask  you  to  favor  me  with  a  line  on 
receipt  of  the  packet,  as  I  shall  be  anxious  to  know  you 
have  got  it.  Did  space  and  time  permit,  I  would  say  a 
good  deal  to  you,  of  the  present  attitude  of  affairs  and  the 
relations  of  England  to  the  United  States.  At  times  I 
feel  terribly  humiliated  at  seeing  the  very,  very  outrageous 
conduct  of  a  certain  section  of  my  countrymen,  in  the 
matter  of  the  struggle  between  the  North  and  South. 
Happily  I  can  believe  still  that  the  national  heart  is  sound, 
but  the  class  of  people  who  are  the  real  enemies  of  free 
government  everywhere  have  been  more  than  usually 
active  among  us  of  late.  These  are  the  sympathizers 
with  the  South.  It  is  the  class  which  opposes  the  educa- 
tion of  the  people  except  in  a  stereotype  form,  opposes 
'reform,  parliamentary'  and  administrative. 

These  were  the  obstrueters  to  free  trade,  religious 
equality,  sympathizers  with  despotism  everywhere,  espe- 
cially the  despotism  of  a  class.  In  fact,  they  constitute 
what  we  consider  the  worn-out  political  party  of  this 
country,  and  they  have  influence  so  far  as  loud  talking 
and  unscrupulous  writing  will  give  them,  and  no  more. 
They  may  annoy,  but  can  do  no  harm.  Trusting  you  are 
well. 

Yours  truly, 

GEORGE  AVALLIS. 

Hon.  Frederick  Smyth,  Comra.,  etc. 

Meanwhile  Mr.  Smyth,  in  company  with  Mr.  Flint, 
visited  France,  Germany,  Switzerland,  and  Italy.  While 
on  the  Mediterranean  in  a  sailing  vessel,  he  met  with 


AGRICULTURE   IN   ENGLAND.  H9 

an  accident  which  would  have  discouraged  any  ordinary 
traveler,  receiving  a  wound  from  a  fall  into  the  hold, 
which  made  it  almost  impossible  for  him  to  walk.  By 
means,  however,  of  an  attendant  with  a  chair,  he  bravely 
continued  his  sight-seeing.  It  may  be  remarked  here  that 
this  tour  was  not  that  of  one  who  enjoys  a  vacation,  or 
who  lazily  and  listlessly  wanders  through  foreign  lands  to 
kill  time,  but  was  the  result  of  an  eager  desire  to  see  and 
know  about  men  and  things.  In  fact,  he  made  it  his 
school,  and  few  men  have  managed  to  absorb  so  much  in 
such  a  brief  space  of  time. 

He  was  at  Rome  during  the  darkest  period  of  our 
nation's  fortunes,  and  advices  from  home  filled  him  with 
solicitude.  He  had  left  America  under  the  ninety-days' 
hallucination  of  Secretary  Seward ;  but  as  this  delusion 
was  dispelled,  he  felt  that  his  services  might  be  needed 
more  than  he  had  thought,  and  while  at  Rome  he  deter- 
mined to  return.  When  he  reached  London,  "  home- 
ward bound,"  the  news  was  more  encouraging,  and  the 
prospects  of  the  Xorth  began  to  brighten,  but  notwith- 
standing ho  continued  on,  and  landed  at  iSTew  York  in 
September. 

When  he  reached  home  in  that  month,  the  Tenth  Regi- 
ment, under  Colonel  Donahoe,  was  just  departing  for  the 
war.  Citizens  purchased  and  presented  horses  to  the 
officers.  Ex-Mayor  Smyth  made  the  presentation  to 
Major  Jesse  Angell,  referring  to  his  patriotism  and  self- 
sacrifice  in  fitting  terms.  "  A  large  showy  horse,  pur- 
chased from  Mr.  Charles  Rowell,"  was  the  comment  of 
the  press  on  the  animal  presented.  Major  Angell  was  a 
fine-looking  ofiicer,  and  left  a  good  place  in  the  mills  for 
the  war  in  behalf  of  his  country. 

Returning  to  his  Manchester  home,  Mr.  Smyth  gave  his 
time  to  the  care  of  the  moneyed  institutions  under  his 
charge.  lie  at  all  times  encouraged  people  to  sul)scribe 
to  the  Government  loan,  and  he  took  an  active  part  in 


120  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

every  measure  calculated  to  increase  popular  faith  in  the 
war  measures  of  the  administration.  At  that  time,  few 
moneyed  men  or  banks  in  town  cared  to  follow  his  example, 
but  the  event  justified  his  sagacity.  Mr.  Smyth's  course 
in  finance  has  been  strictly  conservative ;  he  has  never 
dabbled  in  fancy  stocks  or  in  merely  speculative  matters 
for  himself  or  for  his  bank,  and  the  reputation  thus  ac- 
quired enabled  him,  as  will  be  seen,  to  lift  the  State  from 
a  condition  in  which  it  was  compelled  to  pay  exorbitant 
interest  to  one  not  inferior  to  that  of  any  in  the  Union. 

In  May,  1863,  a  fair  was  held  at  Manchester  ill  aid  of 
the  National  Sanitary  Commission.  Mr.  Smyth  was  the 
chairman  of  the  managing  committee,  and  gave  the  use 
of  his  hall,  in  addition  to  his  own  zealous  personal  eftbrts, 
to  promote  the  success  of  the  undertaking.  It  was  a  suc- 
cess, and  the  sum  raised  was  about  four  thousand  dollars. 
He  felt  that  every  possible  exertion  should  be  made  to 
sustain  the  soldiers  in  the  field  for  upholding  and  main- 
taining the  principles  of  free  government,  and  was  ever 
ready  to  advance  any  measure  calculated  to  promote  the 
comfort  of  these  brave  Boys  in  Blue. 

After  the  battle  of  Gettysburg,  he  hastened  with  others 
to  that  bloody  field,  where  he  witnessed  the  sufferings  of 
the  wounded  who  had  rallied  round  their  battle-flags  as 
they  had  pressed  forward  through  seas  of  blood  and  over 
hecatombs  of  the  dead  until  the  once  proud  host  of  the 
secessionists  was  flying  in  defeat.  Mr.  Smyth  labored 
among  the  wounded  soldiers  until  he  was  himself  i)ros- 
trated  by  exposure  and  over-exertion,  and  he  was  forced 
to  seek  medical  advice.  A  surgeon  who  was  present,  in 
a  letter  wrote  :  "  The  prompt,  etficient,  and  able  manner 
in  which  he  aided  both  olficers  and  men  with  counsel  and 
means  to  procure  needed  articles  for  the  relief  of  distress, 
was  remarked  by  all.  Through  drenching  rain,  through 
mud,  wading  swollen  creeks,  he  seemed  everywhere 
present."     In  this  case,  however,  his  zeal  was  too  great 


AGRICULTURE   IN   ENGLAND.  121 

for  his  strength.  The  sickening  effluvia  of  the  battle- 
field, the  sounds  and  sights  of  distress  beyond  all  human 
aid,  added  to  neglect  of  proper  food,  l)rought  him  to  a 
sick  bed,  where  he  was  confined  during  most  of  the  fall 
of  1863. 

The  next  May,  however,  news  came  of  the  horrors  of 
war  as  displayed  on  the  battle-fields  of  the  Wilderness, 
and  Mr.  Smyth  again  hastened  to  the  front.  Under  the 
broiling  sun  of  a  Virginia  May,  with  arms  bare  to  the 
work,  he  helped  carry  the  wounded  from  the  field  to 
Fredericksburg,  where  such  care  was  given  them  as  could 
be  had.  Wliile  tenderly  caring  for  the  wounded,  he  en- 
couraged the  survivors  to  "  fight  it  out  on  that  line," 
assuring  them  that  they  would  eventually  be  led  to  vic- 
tory, glory,  and  final  triumph.  With  fresh  hopes  and 
renewed  courage  they  would  rally  around  the  starry  ban- 
ner with  renewed  ardor  and  enthusiasm,  while  those  cared 
for  in  the  hospitals  were  anxious  to  join  their  regiments 
and  to  participate  in  the  final  victory.  Mr.  Smyth  has 
since  received  many  testimonials  from  those  whom  he  had 
encouraged  or  succored,  some  of  them  declaring  that  they 
owed,  under  God,  their  lives  to  his  tender  care. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

HOME   AFFAIRS. 

In  this  year,  1863,  Mr.  Smyth  was  for  the  fourth  "time 
elected  mayor  of  Manchester,  under  peculiar  circum- 
stances. The  then  existing  situation,  and  the  result,  was 
thus  graphically  described  in  an  editorial  article  in  the 
Manchester  Mirror  and  American,  of  Xov.  8,  1864  :  — 

"  A  year  ago  this  month  the  governor  and  council  of 
Xew  Hampshire  wisely  recommended  the  towns  and  cities 
of  this  State  to  cash  the  Government  bounty  of  $302.00, 
payable  in  installments,  and  fill  up  their  quotas.  The 
advice  was  taken.  It  took  between  three  and  four  mil- 
lions of  dollars  of  ready  money  to  carry  out  the  idea.  It 
drained  every  bank,  and  made,  for  the  time  being,  the 
best  securities  seem  of  no  account  in  raising  money. 
Manchester  was  in  trouble ;  she  needed  more  funds  than 
could  be  had,  and  with  all  her  wealth,  seemed  like  a  beg- 
gar. ...  In  this  critical  condition  of  financial  aftairs, 
the  question  of  mayor  of  this  city  came  up.  The  field  was 
canvassed  again  and  again,  and  each  time  the  report  would 
be,  '  Hon.  Frederick  Smyth  is  the  man,  but  he  won't  take 
it.'  It  was  a  necessity  that  the  chief  executive  of  the  city 
should  have  the  confidence  of  business  men  and  be  familiar 
with  financial  matters.  Finally  the  pressure  was  so  great 
that  some  of  our  leading  citizens  went  to  him  and  con- 
vinced him  that  it  was  his  duty  to  accept  of  the  onerous 
position  one  year.  He  reluctantly  assented,  with  a  dis- 
tinct understanding  that  he  should  not  again  be  called 
upon  for  that  place.  Some  ten  years  ago  he  was  three 
times  elected  to  fill  tlie  office  of  mayor,  each  year  with 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  123 

increased  majorities,  and  time  had  shown  that  his  munici- 
pal record  grew  higher  and  brighter  as  new  opportunities 
to  judge  of  its  merits  presented  themselves.  And  a  year 
ago  he  was  elected  for  a  fourth  term  without  show  of 
opposition,  an  event  unprecedented  in  our  municipal  his- 
tory, or  in  that  of  any  city  in  the  State.  It  was  a  wise 
choice.  From  the  moment  he  took  the  mayor's  chair, 
harmony  prevailed  in  every  department  of  the  city  govern- 
ment. He  is  a  peace-maker.  He  believes  that  '  a  house 
divided  against  itself  cannot  stand,'  and  has  the  power  of 
discerning  almost  intuitively  the  average  sense  of  man- 
kind, what  is  generally  called  common-sense,  and  hence  is 
a  natural  leader  of  the  people." 

Jan.  5,  1864,  Mayor  Smyth  delivered  before  both 
branches  of  the  city  council  in  convention  assembled  his 
fourth  inaugural  address. 

Gentlemen  of  the  City  Council  : 

Selected  by  our  fellow-citizens  to  conduct  the  municipal 
affairs  of  this  city  for  the  year  this  day  commencing,  and 
having  taken  a  solemn  obligation  to  devote  to  that  pur- 
pose our  best  endeavors,  we  cannot  now  escape  the  respon- 
sibility we  have  assumed. 

I  congratulate  myself  that,  on  again  assuming  the 
duties  involved  in  my  position,  I  am  to  be  associated  with 
so  large  a  number,  in  each  branch  of  the  city  council, 
who  have  had  experience  in  the  legislation  of  our  city ; 
who  not  only  know  what  has  been  done,  but  what  is  re- 
quired, and  the  most  feasible  mode  to  obtain  the  desired 
results. 

In  accordance  with  the  requirements  of  the  city  charter 
and  with  custom,  I  shall  ask  your  attention  to  some  of  the 
more  important  matters  that  will  become  subjects  of  city 
legislation. 

The  annual  report  of  the  receipts  and  expenditures  of 
the  past  year  not  being  completed,  I  cannot  now  refer  in 


124  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

detail  to  financial  aftairs.  It  is  hoped  that  the  report  will 
soon  be  before  you. 

I  shall  not  be  thought  to  overstate  the  case,  when  I  say 
that  no  city  council,  in  the  history  of  our  municipal 
government,  now  commencing  its  eighteenth  year,  has 
been  required  to  consider  and  act  on  questions  so  momen- 
tous as  those  which  will  immediately  occupy  our  atten- 
tion. We  are  to  assume  the  management  of  a  debt 
nearly  or  quite  twice  as  large  as  that  of  any  previous  year, 
while  the  State  tax  is  to  be  doubled. 

What  shall  be  done  with  so  great  a  debt,  what  necessity 
there  may  be  for  its  increase  or  what  probability  of  its 
reduction,  what  means  shall  be  provided  for  payment  of 
interest,  and  whether  the  burden  of  taxation  can  be 
lightened  without  public  detriment,  are  questions  to  be 
carefully  considered.  "With  these  large  liabilities  of  city, 
county,  and  State,  come  increased  taxes  in  like  propor- 
tion. However  unwelcome  such  facts  maybe,  it  is  better 
to  look  them  squarely  in  the  face,  that  we  may  be  the  bet- 
ter prepared  to  meet  them.  Of  the  creation  of  such  in- 
debtedness, or  whether  it  was  or  not  in  part  or  in  whole 
properly  incurred,  we  are  not  called  upon  now  to  decide,  — 
we  must  take  matters  as  we  find  them. 

The  limited  investigation  I  have  been  able  to  give  the 
subject  of  the  city  finances  since  my  election,  does  not 
enable  me  to  express  at  this  time  any  decided  opinion  in 
relation  to  what  should  be  our  course  of  action  in  this 
regard.  I  therefore  Avill  oidy  briefly  state  that,  from  in- 
formation obtained  from  our  worth}'  city  treasurer,  I  find 
the  indebtedness  of  the  city,  on  the  first  day  of  the  present 
montli,  to  bo  as  follows  :  — 

Bonds  due,  1«9:5 $70,000 

LSSS 80,000 

July  1,  18«2          ....  22,500 

Jan.  1,  1S«()          ....  10,000 

Notes  due.  Julv  1,  LSTS          ....  :3,500 


MAYOR  S    FOURTH    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS. 


125 


Bonds  due,  July  1,  1877 

$22,500 

July  1,  1874 

20,000 

July  1,  1872 

20,000 

Notes  due,  Feb.  1,  1872 

3,600 

Bonds  due,  Jan.  1,  1871 

6,000 

July  1,  1867 

20,000 

Jan.  1,  1866 

6,000 

Notes  due,  June  1,  186-4 

6,000 

May  2,  1864 

2,300 

April  13,  1864 

2,100 

Feb.  16,  1864 

2,500 

Feb.  9,  1864 

10,000 

Notes  due,  on  demand    . 

69,400 

Interest  due,  Jan.  1,  1864 

8,025 

Due  State  of  New  Hamjishirc 

!  and  County  of 

Hillsborough,  for  taxes  of  1863 

27,754 

Due  on  bills  approved  in  treasurer's  hands, 

not  paid 

12,928 

$380,107 

The  amount  of  outstanding  bills  due  I  have  no  means 
of  knowing  at  the  present  time,  neither  can  I  inform  you 
how  much  we  may  receive  from  the  State  and  General 
Government,  or  from  other  sources,  or  how  much  the  ex- 
penses of  the  city  will  be  from  this  time  until  the  taxes 
of  the  present  year  can  be  realized  in  June.  The  treasurer 
informs  me  that,  in  his  opinion,  we  shall  be  under  the 
necessity  of  obtaining  by  loan  about  forty  thousand  dol- 
lars, to  pay  the  demands  on  the  treasury  by  the  families 
of  soldiers,  before  any  money  can  be  received  from  the 
State  for  that  purpose.  He  is  also  of  the  opinion  that  at 
least  ten  thousand  dollars  in  addition  must  be  raised,  to 
pay  demands  now  due,  and  which  may  become  due,  over 
and  above  the  money  he  now  has  on  hand,  and  the  receipts 
from  all  sources  from  the  present  time  till  the  new  taxes 
are  assessed  in  June. 

From  the  foregoing  it  will  be  seen  that  we  are  liable  to 
be  called  upon  to  X)ay  $69,400,  the  amount   of  notes  due 


126  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH* 

on  demand,  at  any  time.  Other  notes,  amounting  to  $22,- 
900,  will  mature  in  the  course  of  five  months.  It  will  be 
noticed  also  that,  by  the  treasurer's  estimate,  $50,000  more 
must  be  raised  soon,  to  meet  demands  before  named,  over 
and  above  all  estimated  receipts.  I  name  the  subject  here, 
in  order  that  it  may  be  known,  as  nearly  as  possible,  how 
we  stand  at  the  time  we  assume  office,  and  also  for  the 
purpose  of  urging  your  immediate  attention  to  the  mat- 
ter. I  have  no  doubt  of  our  ability  to  maintain  the  credit 
of  the  city  unimpaired. 

To  confine  our  debt  within  manageable  limits,  and  so 
to  control  taxation  that  our  men  of  business  and  capitalists 
may  not  be  driven  from  among  us,  will  require  rigid 
economy  in  expenditures  and  discriminating  firmness  on 
the  part  of  each  member  of  the  city  council,  in  resisting 
applications  for  improvements,  which,  though  desirable, 
cannot  all  be  effected  at  once.  I  do  not  advocate  a  parsi- 
monious polic}-,  even  in  our  present  financial  condition ; 
but  a  close  scrutiny  into  the  wisdom  and  necessity  of  every 
proposed  outlay  is  indispensable  to  the  public  welfare. 

The  power  to  make  appropriations  and  to  expend  them 
rests  exclusively  with  the  city  council,  except  in  cases 
otherwise  provided  for  by  State  and  city  laws.  I  do  not 
understand  that  any  standing  or  special  committee  of  the 
city  council,  or  of  either  board,  has  authority  to  expend 
or  control  any  appropriation,  unless  specially  authorized 
by  a  vote  of  the  city  council. 

Although  the  mayor  is  l)y  the  charter  made  the  chief 
executive  oificer  of  the  city,  and  is  required  to  exercise 
supervision  over  the  conduct  of  all  subordinate  officers, 
he  has  no  authority  to  expend  money  unless  authorized 
by  the  city  council. 

A  thorough  system  of  accounts  and  a  rigid  account- 
ability should  be  required  of  persons  having  the  expendi- 
ture   of  public    money.     The   appropriations    should    be 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  127 

made  large  enough  for  the  purpose  for  which  they  are 
assigned,  and  should  in  no  instance  be  overdrawn  without 
a  vote  by  the  proper  authority.  Every  officer  and  agent 
disbursing  the  public  money  should  be  held  personally  ac- 
countable for  every  cent  expended  in  excess  of  the  appro- 
priation. If  this  system  be  not  well  enforced,  we  shall 
be  under  the  necessity  at  the  commencement  of  every 
year  to  resort  to  temporary  loans  to  supply  deficiencies  of 
the  previous  year.  These  loans  will  soon  become  a  part 
of  the  permanent  debt  of  the  city,  and  thus  our  debt  go 
on  increasing  imperceptibly  to  the  authority  that  permits 
it  to  be  contracted. 

That  "  the  world  is  governed  too  much,"  is  a  maxim  as 
true  as  it  is  old,  and  which  no  one  conversant  with  history 
or  experience  in  human  nature  will  deny.  The  city 
records  will  show  that  our  own  law-makers  have  not 
escaped  the  universal  temptation.  It  has  been  found 
necessary  from  time  to  time  to  prune  and  condense  the 
ordinances.  In  many  instances  the  State  laws  would  have 
been  sufficient  for  our  needs,  and  in  other  cases  the  city 
law-makers  have  not  made  themselves  familiar  with  the 
enactments  of  the  State,  with  which  their  work  has  con- 
flicted. A  new  revision  of  our  ordinances  is  necessary  at 
this  time,  as  few  persons  have  ever  perused  all  the  laws 
that  encumber  our  records,  or  ever  will.  We  should 
avoid  the  passage  of  any  law  not  al)solutoh'  required. 

Xot  (piestioiiing  the  ability  or  judgment  of  the  asses- 
sors of  previous  years,  I  desire  to  call  tlie  attention  of  the 
present  board  to  the  subject  of  our  public  taxes,  with  a 
view  to  their  more  equitable  distril)ution.  It  is  an  ad- 
mitted fact,  that  property  in  this  city  has  always  been 
valued  at  a  much  higher  rate  than  it  has  in  the  aggregate 
throughout  the  State.  This  diflerence  in  the  valuation 
would  1)0  of  no  consequence  if  we  were  taxed  for  city 
purposes   only,  but   inasmuch    as  on   this  valuation   our 


128  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

share  of  the  State  and  county  tax  is  based,  it  is  of  vast 
importance  to  us,  the  more  especially  at  this  time,  when 
this  public  tax  is  to  be  about  doubled,  or  nearly  as  much 
as  all  our  tax  for  municipal  purposes,  and  also  as  upon  the 
appraisal  of  this  and  the  last  year  the  apportionment  of 
the  public  tax  of  this  and  the  three  next  years  is  to  be 
made.  The  effect  of  this  difference  in  appraisal  may  be 
seen  in  the  last  apportionment  of  the  State  tax.  Man- 
chester's proportion  of  this  tax  under  that  apportionment 
was  ^76.84  on  every  thousand  dollars  raised  b}'  the  State, 
or  nearly  one  thirteenth  of  all  the  State  tax.  Does  any 
one  believe  that  ^Manchester  does,  or  ever  did,  contain 
one  thirteenth  part  of  all  the  property  in  the  State  ?  I 
am  aware  that  the  city  council  cannot  control  this  matter, 
but  if  our  present  able  board  of  assessors  can  feel  it  to  be 
their  duty  to  remedy  this  evil,  even  in  part,  my  object  in 
alluding  to  it  in  this  connection  will  be  accomplished. 

One  of  the  largest  appropriations  we  are  annually  called 
upon  to  make,  is  for  the  support  and  maintenance  of  our 
public  schools  ;  and  I  am  free  to  say,  gentlemen,  that  it  is 
not  here  that  we  should  first  commence  to  lessen  our  ap- 
propriations. The  expense  of  our  schools  is  indeed  great, 
but  the  expense  of  a  lack  of  education  would  be  incalcu- 
lably greater.  Every  good  and  true  man,  patriot,  and 
Christian  will  desire  that  our  schools  be  thorough  and 
efficient  in  their  work.  Xever  before  was  the  impression 
stronger  than  now  upon  the  minds  of  the  good  and 
thoughtful,  that,  if  this  country  is  to  be,  as  it  has  been,  a 
government  of  the  people,  the  masses  must  become 
educated ;  and  to  this  end  that  schooling  for  our  children 
must  be  as  free  as  possible,  —  so  free  that  all  can  share  it, 
and  the  schools  so  good  that  none  can  despise  them.  To 
me  it  is  a  pleasant  thought,  that  the  loyal  condition  of  our 
Xew  England  States  is  largely  attributed  to  the  general 
intelligence  of   the   citizen,    an   intelligence,   as   we   all 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  129 

know,  that  comes  from  our  free  scliools.  Considering 
their  immediate  pecuniary  cost,  we  have  a  right  to  ex- 
pect much  in  return.  The  influence  of  tlie  competent 
teacher  ought  to  he  felt  upon  pupils,  not  only  within  the 
walls  of  the  schoolroom,  but  in  society,  and  wherever  a 
scholar  goes. 

One  thino-  is  s^reatlv  to  he  desired  in  our  schools :  the 
cultivation  of  a  spirit  of  taste  and  careful  usage  of  the 
public  property,  which  shall  prevent  the  destruction  and 
defacing  of  school  buildings,  fences,  trees,  etc.  On  this 
subject  too  much  cannot  be  said  by  parents  and  teachers. 

In  an  inaugural  address  to  the  city  council,  March  15, 
1853,  and  again  March  24,  1854,  I  took  occasion  to  rec- 
ommend the  establishment  of  a  free  public  library,  the 
"  Manchester  Atheneum  "  having  liberally  tendered  the 
gift  of  their  valuable  library  to  the  city  for  that  pur- 
pose, providing  the  city  should  maintain  and  annu- 
ally enlarge  it.  It  has  now  been  in  operation  about  ten 
years,  and,  it  seems  to  me,  fully  justifies  the  anticipations 
of  its  founders,  and  has  proved  a  powerful  auxiliary  in 
the  cause  of  education  and  morals.  I  have  also  had 
reason  to  know  that  it  has  ad<led  to  the  reputation  and 
character  of  the  city  abroad,  as  a  token  of  wise  and  lil)- 
eral  legislation. 

A  more  extensive  reading-room,  as  a  place  of  (juiet 
resort  for  all  who  chose  to  avail  themselves  of  it,  was  I 
think  one  of  the  original  features  contemplated  by  its 
friends,  and  I  have  never  looked  with  })leasure  upon  a 
curtailment  of  this  branch  of  the  enterprise.  It  is  not  my 
wish  here  to  suggest  an  immediate  additional  outlay  of 
money,  —  the  times  will  not  admit  of  it,  —  but  I  look  for- 
ward to  a  time  when  our  public  library  will  assume  much 
more  importance  than  now.  It  is  not  extravagant  for  us 
to  imagine  that  at  some  future  time  we  may  see  not  only 
a  free  library  of  books  and  an  extensive  reading-room,  l)ut, 

9 


130  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

in  connection  with  the  same,  paintings  and  works  of  art. 
It  is  to  be  hoped  tliat  the  institution  will  take  so  deep  a 
hold  upon  the  hearts  of  our  citizens,  that  individuals  of 
wealth  will  consider  it  an  object  worthy  of  endowment, 
and  will  desire  to  have  their  names  associated  with  it  as 
benefactors. 

All  populous  communities  have  found  it  necessary  to 
protect,  by  organized  force,  the  property  and  persons  of 
the  well-disposed  from  the  vicious.  We  are  to  expect  no 
reprieve  from  this  necessity  until  the  Divine  law  is  more 
fully  recognized  and  obeyed.  The  expenditure  of  large 
sums  of  money  does  not  always  accomplish  the  desired 
object.  One  officer,  with  a  character  for  strict  integrity, 
courage,  and  perseverance,  united  with  a  discriminating 
judgment  and  good  temper,  who  is  determined  in  the  dis- 
charge of  duty,  is  better  than  any  number  of  men  with- 
out such  qualities.  The  best  evidence  of  a  good  officer 
in  this  department  is  the  amount  of  crime  he  j)n'rents, 
rather  than  the  number  of  cases  he  brings  before  the 
police  court. 

An  impression  prevails  that  the  number  of  officers  in 
the  police  department  of  our  small  city  is  unnecessarily 
large,  and  that  the  expense  of  the  same  might  be  lessened 
without  public  detriment. 

Good  roads  and  sidewalks  enhance  the  value  of  prop- 
erty, as  well  as  add  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of 
citizens.  Notwithstanding  the  large  amount  annually 
appropriated  for  the  purpose,  our  roads  are  not  always  in 
a  desirable  condition,  as  is  proved  by  daily  experience 
and  occasional  vexatious  suits,  against  the  city,  for 
damages.  The  most  eminent  civil  engineers  have  made 
road-building  a  study,  and  we  should  do  no  less  than  ex- 
ercise the  utmost  care  in  the  appointment  of  men  who 
have  the  supervision  of  the  higliAvays.  AVe  shall  not 
reach    the  perfection  of  those    famous  old  roads,  which 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  131 

have  borne  the  peaceful  and  warlike  trains  of  two  thou- 
sand years  without  material  repair  or  aiuendnient;  hut 
we  ought  by  skill  and  caro  to  place  our  highways  in  bet- 
ter condition,  with  less  annual  expenditure  of  money. 

The  paving  of  Elm  street,  which  for  several  years  has 
been  continued,  was  not  extended  last  year,  although,  I 
am  informed,  an  appropriation  was  made  for  that  pur- 
pose. This  improvement  of  our  principal  business  thor- 
oughfare is,  in  my  opinion,  an  economical  expenditure, 
and  I  recommend  its  continuance  the  present  year,  to 
such  an  extent  as  you  may  think  advisable.  Should  you 
coincide  in  this  view,  an  early  contract  for  the  stone  will 
l)e  necessary,  in  order  to  insure  the  completion  of  the 
work  in  tlie  proper  season.  A  somewhat  extended  obser- 
vation has  led  me  to  the  opinion  that  smaller  blocks  ot 
granite  than  those  heretofore  used  for  paving  will  answer 
a  better  purpose.  Much  care  should  be  exercised  in  the 
proper  preparation  of  the  streets  for  paving,  in  order  that 
the  work  may  be  permanent. 

Improvements  are  absolutely  demanded  in  our  side- 
walks, and  the  various  considerations  arising  from  this 
subject  will  require  much  thought.  Whether  the  city 
shall  compel  the  abutters  to  build  and  keep  the  sidewalk 
in  repair,  or,  in  case  the  work  is  undertaken  ])y  the  city, 
what  compensation  shall  be  made  to  those  who  have  al- 
ready done  their  part,  we  ought  s|)eedi]y  to  determine. 
Citizens  who  notice  defects  in  roiid  or  sidewalk  should 
make  it  a  duty  to  report  the  same  at  once  to  the  pro})er 
officer,  as  much  expense  and  suflering  may  thus  be 
avoided.  Some  State  law  may  ])e  re(|uire(l  to  enable  us 
to  exercise  the  needed  control  over  the  subject  of  side- 
walks. 

An  annual  a})}>ro[»riation  has  been  made  for  several 
years  and  paid,  for  watering  Kim  street.  This  outlay,  if 
judiciously  expended,  is  conducive  to  the  comfort  of  our 


132  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

own  citizens  and  visitors,  who  mostly  congregate  on  this 
our  business  thoroughfare,  and  the  safety  of  property  lia- 
ble to  injury  by  dust;  but  for  some  reason  it  seems  to 
have  had  but  little  efficiency  except  on  rainy  days.  I 
would  suggest  that  the  object  may  be  better  attained  by 
taking  the  water,  necessary  for  the  northerly  portion  of 
the  street,  from  the  reservoir  on  Concord  square,  which 
might  easily  be  conducted  to  a  cistern  in  the  rear  of  the 
city  stable,  and  that  the  teams  kept  in  readiness  for  the 
steam  tire  engines  be  used  to  distribute  the  water,  always 
beinff  readilv  available  in  case  of  fire. 

The  expense  of  lighting  our  streets  has  become  quite 
an  item.  Some  are  of  the  opinion  that,  for  the  money 
we  pay,  the  streets  should  be  better  lighted.  The  light- 
ing and  extinguishing  the  lamps  is  done  by  an  employee 
of  the  gas  company.  Would  it  not  be  sounder  economy 
for  some  officer  of  the  city,  whose  time  may  not  be  fully 
occupied  otherwise,  to  perform  this  duty,  or  provide  some 
means  to  ascertain  that  the  city  has  all  the  light  it  pays 
for,  especially  as  complaint  is  made  that  the  lights  are 
often  extinguished  before  the  stipulated  time  ? 

A  careful  survey  of  the  location,  capacity,  and  grade  of 
our  sewers  should  be  made,  and  a  map  of  the  same  pre- 
served. There  is  reason  to  believe  that  this  knowledge 
would  have  saved  considerable  needless  expense  hereto- 
fore incurred. 

Our  j)ub]ic  grounds,  so  indispensable  to  health  and 
comfort,  should  receive  yearly  careful  attention,  and  the 
improvements,  commenced  years  ago,  be  continued. 
Every  tree  should  be  protected  and  preserved,  their  losses 
replaced,  the  fences,  grass  plots,  and  ponds  kept  in  good 
and  tasteful  condition,  and  free  from  every  unsightly  ob- 
ject. The  neatness  of  the  commons  has  much  to  do  with 
the  health  of  the  city.  Means  should  be  taken  to  secure 
the  purity  of  the  water  in  our  public  grounds,  by  protect- 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  133 

ing  the  water-courses  leading  thereto  from  corrupting  de- 
posits. I  have  reason  to  helieve  that  the  munificent  spirit 
on  the  part  of  the  Amoskeag  Company,  which  granted 
so  much  land  for  public  benefit,  is  not  yet  exhausted,  and 
that  by  consultation  with  the  agent,  who  has  taken  so 
much  interest  in  beautifying  and  improving  our  city,  a 
still  larger  open  space  may  be  secured  at  some  eligible 
situation  for  parades  and  public  gatherings. 

The  only  successful  weapons  to  be  used  against  pauper- 
ism are  industry,  temperance,  and  economy.  To  induce 
those  who  are  disposed  to  rely  on  the  public  for  support 
to  practice  these  virtues,  is  tlie  duty  of  every  good  citizen. 
The  number  who  claim  support  or  aid  from  the  city  is 
said  to  be  increasing,  —  not  so  much  from  any  general 
increase  of  pauperism,  as  from  the  fact  that  more  such 
persons,  by  lapse  of  time  and  by  taxation,  have  gained  a 
residence  here. 

The  city  farm  is  a  valuable  aid  in  support  of  the  poor, 
and  should  receive  every  care  and  attention  to  increase  its 
productiveness  and  render  it  profitable.  The  street  clean- 
ings, which  formerly  added  so  much  to  its  fertility,  have 
not,  I  am  sorry  to  learn,  been  at  all  times  used  for  so  good 
a  purpose.  The  value  of  these  accumulations  is  very 
much  underrated;  with  the  annual  application  of  these 
fertilizing  substances  so  easily  obtained  from  the  city,  our 
farm  may  soon  be  nuide  the  most  productive  in  the  county. 
The  expense  of  this  cleansing  would  be  much  lessened  by 
employing  inmates  of  the  house  of  correction  and  the 
farm  teams. 

That  beautiful  and  sacred  spot,  Valley  Cemetery,  has 
been  nearly  all  disposed  of,  in  individual  and  family  lots. 
With  wise  forethought,  the  authorities  some  years  since 
purchased  Pine  Grove  Cemetery,  a  place  in  mau}^  respects 
suited  to  the  purpose  to  which  it  is  devoted.  It  is  to  be 
rcirretted  that  uTeater  varietv  in  hill  and  vallev  does  not 


134  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

combine  with  the  other  qualifications  of  the  new  location, 
but  it  is  doubtless  the  best  that  could  be  procured.  The 
delightful  grove  upon  it  may  be  much  improved  by  judi- 
cious and  tasteful  pruning.  Affection,  sentiment,  duty, 
and  Christian  piety,  all  demand  of  us  appropriate  care  for 
the  place  of  sepulture. 

I  am  not  aware  that  any  particular  change  is  called  for 
in  the  fire  department  at  present.  It  appears  to  possess 
the  features  desirable  —  cheapness  and  efficienc}'  —  to  a 
very  praiseworthy  degree.  We  now  have  three  steamers. 
These,  when  in  order  (as  they  generally  are),  afi:brd  abet- 
ter protection  than  we  have  ever  had  before.  It  is  hoped 
that  the  fortunate  exemption  from  losses  by  fire,  which  we 
have  enjoyed  during  the  past  year,  will  lull  neither  citizens 
nor  firemen  into  careless  security.  Without  vigilance,  we 
are  liable  at  any  moment  to  disastrous  confiagrations. 

The  times  in  wliich  we  live  teach  us  the  lesson  that 
every  community,  situated  as  we  are,  will  be  much  more 
likely  to  remain  quiet,  orderly,  and  peaceable,  if  within 
its  own  borders,  and  composed  of  its  own  citizens,  it 
should  have  a  disci}>lined  volunteer  force  tliat  can,  at  very 
short  notice,  be  made  available  in  case  of  disturbance  of 
the  public  peace.  The  general  good  order  of  our  city  I 
am  pleased  to  note  :  and  it  is  not  anything  in  the  past 
that  has  occurred  in  our  midst,  that  occasions  this  allu- 
sion, but  a  conviction,  which  I  think  you,  gentlemen,  and 
our  citizens  share  with  me,  that  in  the  event  of  any  popu- 
lar commotion, —  any  attempt  by  designing  men  to  set  at 
defiance  the  authority  of  our  city  or  state,  we  should 
feel,  all  of  us,  more  secure  if  provided  with  this  force.  I 
refer  to  the  subject  in  order  to  suggest  that  to  tliose 
volunteer  military  organizations  which  now  exist,  or  which 
may  hereafter  he  forme<l  in  our  city,  you  extend  such 
support  and  encouragement,  moral  and  otherwise,  as  their 
importance  demands. 


mayor's  fourth  inaugural  address.  135 

We  now  contribute  to  the  support  of  two  military  com- 
panies, tlie  Araoskeag  Veterans  and  the  Xational  Guard. 
The  first-named,  composed  of  some  of  our  best  citizens, 
is  an  organization  too  well  known  to  need  comment  here. 
The  second  is  formed  of  young  men,  many  of  whom  have 
seen  service  and  received  honorable  wounds  in  the  national 
cause.  Although  recently  organized,  it  has  attained  to  a 
state  of  discipline  highly  creditable  to  the  corps.  These 
companies  serve  to  keep  alive  the  military  spirit  of  our 
citizens,  and  ought  to  be  particularly  encouraged  and 
fostered. 

I  learn  that  the  amount  now  paid  by  the  city  each 
month,  as  aid  to  families  of  volunteers,  is  about  five 
thousand  dollars.  There  is  reason  to  believe  tbat  many 
have  been,  and  still  are,  receiving  this  money,  who  are 
not  properly  entitled  to  it.  The  committee  of  the  coun- 
cil, who  have  had  this  matter  in  charge,  haxe  lal)()rcd 
under  many  embarrassing  difHculties,  as  must  their  suc- 
cessors. A  searching  investigation  should  often  be  made, 
to  ascertain  those  promoted,  discharged,  deceased,  and 
deserted,  whose  families  are  receiving  tliis  aid.  It  will 
re([uire  constant  vigilance  to  gain  this  needed  information, 
and  most  careful  discrimimition  in  receiving  new  a})pli- 
cations. 

In  ordinary  times  and  under  ordinary  circumstances, 
I  should  lay  myself  liable  to  the  charge  of  ambitious  mo- 
tives did  I  allude  to  the  affairs  of  our  nation  ;  ])ut  such 
are  the  times  and  such  the  crisis  that  not  to  allude  to  our 
country  would  be  unpardonable.  In  whatever  manner 
we  may  be  called,  during  the  j)resent  year,  to  aid  our 
country,  let  us  all  N'ie  with  each  other  in  clieerfully  doing 
our  duty,  ever  mindful  of  the  blessings  that  under  (iod 
rested  upon  our  fatlu'rs,  ha\'e  flowed  to  us  all  our  lives 
long,  and  will  descend  to  posterity  if  we  shall  l)Ut  ])i'ove 
true.      I  congratulate  you,   gentlemen,  that  the   jtresent 


136  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

signs  are  full  of  hope  and  encouragement.  Each  day 
confirms  us  in  the  opinion  that  the  nation  is  to  live,  that 
human  bondage  in  this  land  is  to  cease,  and  that  justice 
and  liberty  shall  here  abide. 

The  faithful  performance  of  duty  as  a  member  of  the 
city  council  is  no  pastime.  Each,  in  his  appropriate 
sphere  of  action,  should  strive  to  become  acquainted  with 
the  duties  of  his  position,  and,  having  learned  them, 
should  be  resolute  in  their  performance.  Ours  is  a  gov- 
ernment for  all,  and  all  alike  are  entitled  to  its  benefits. 
Let  it  be  our  aim  to  be  prudent  in  legislation,  cautious  in 
measures  adopted  for  an  eflScient  administration  of  the 
law,  but  firm  in  maintaining  its  supremacy. 

As  I  become  more  fully  acquainted  with  the  circum- 
stances and  condition  of  the  city,  these  and  other  subjects 
may  be  more  thoroughly  treated  in  some  future  commu- 
nication. 

Having  thus  endeavored,  in  as  comprehensive  a  man- 
ner as  possible,  to  bring  to  your  notice  matters  which  will 
demand  early  attention,  I  am  aware  that  I  cannot,  with- 
out charge  of  indifierence  or  ingratitude,  pass  in  silence 
the  extraordinary  unanimity  of  the  vote  which  has  laid 
on  me  the  responsibilities  of  this  ofiicc.  Xeither  have  I 
forgotten  the  kindness  and  forbearance  of  the  citizens 
during  the  three  successive  years,  when  formerly  honored 
with  their  sutfrages.  I  shall  endeavor  to  express  my 
thanks  by  such  an  administration  of  afiairs  as  shall  prove 
their  confidence  not  misplaced.  As  we  have  entered  upon 
our  duties  with  an  invocation  of  the  Idessing  of  Divine 
Providence,  let  us  hope  to  continue  and  close  them  with 
His  a}»{)rol)atiMn. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

NOMINATED    FOR    GOVERNOR. 

We  have  seen  what  was  the  opinion  and  the  feeUng 
concerning  Mayor  Smyth  at  lionie,  where  he  was  best 
known.  But  this  feeHng  had  also  obtained  to  a  consider- 
able extent  throughout  the  State,  and  his  friends  liad  for 
some  time  determined  to  present  his  name  as  a  candidate 
for  governor. 

His  chief  competitor  in  the  convention  of  Jan.  4,  1865, 
was  the  Hon.  Onslow  Stearns;  and  the  first  ballot,  wliicli 
was  declared  informal,  was  for  Walter  Ilarri man  8,  Milan 
W.  Harris  5,  Onslow  Stearns  221,  Frederick  Smyth  455. 
This  result  was  very  gratifying  to  the  personal  friends 
of  the  nominee,  and  especially  to  his  fellow-townsmen. 
They  called  on  hiiii  in  the  evening,  aecompaiued  by  the 
Cornet  Band,  and  as  the  music  called  him  out,  the  mayor 
(Hon.  J).  J.  Daniels)  said  :  — 

"  Mr.  Smyth  :  Your  friends  and  fellow-citizens  have 
called  this  evening  to  congratulate  you  on  the  distin- 
guished honor  conferred  upon  you,  and  through  you  on 
our  city,  in  your  selection  by  the  people  of  Xew  Hamp- 
shire, in  convention  assembled,  as  their  candidate  for  the 
liighest  othce  in  their  gift.  This  honor  is  the  more  valu- 
able, coming,  as  it  does,  from  the  largest  and  most  intelli- 
gent convention  ever  assembled  in  our  State  for  a  like 
purpose,  and  with  a  unanimity  ([uite  unusual  in  such 
cases.  AVe  believe  this  a  nomination  eminently  fit  to  be 
made,  and  we  have  the  strongest  assurance  that  it  will  be 
ratified  by  the  })eople  on  the  second  Tuesday  of  March 
next,  by  your  triumpliant  election." 


138  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Mr.  Smyth  replied,  that  having  received  no  intimation 
that  he  should  be  expected  to  reply  to  any  speech,  he  was 
accordingly  unprepared,  but  said  in  substance:  "I  thank 
you,  Mr.  Mayor,  for  this  friendly  expression  of  regard, 
and  I  assure  you  that,  although  this  day's  action  has  given 
me  pleasure,  yet  I  value  far  above  it  the  sincere  expression 
of  the  good  ^vill  of  those  among  whom  I  have  lived  for 
twenty-five  years.  To  you,  ray  friends  and  neighbors,  in 
the  kind  manner  you  have  spoken  at  home  and  abroad  of 
me,  I  owe  very  much  of  the  impression  which  seems  to 
have  prevailed  to  some  extent  in  the  State  ;  and  much  as 
I  may  have  reason  to  be  gratified  with  the  nomination  of 
to-day,  that  gratification  would  have  lost  all  its  pleasure 
had  it  been  purchased  at  the  price  of  your  friendly  regard, 
or  been  unaccompanied  by  your  warm  support.  It  would 
be  ungrateful  to  deny,  and  I  will  not  attempt  to  conceal, 
the  pleasure  which  the  unanimous  and  hearty  efforts  of 
the  Manchester  delegation,  without  a  single  exception,  in 
ni}'  favor,  has  aft'orded  me ;  and  in  closing  (for  I  had  sup- 
posed this  to  be  a  social  rather  than  a  speech-making 
occasion),  Mr.  Mayor  and  citizens,  I  sincerely  hope  that 
nothing  in  my  conduct  hereafter  may  ever  make  me 
unworthy  of  your  sup[iort :  and  even  should  I  fail  of  an 
election,  tliis  attitude  of  yours  in  the  matter  will  remain 
to  my  latest  hour  a  source  of  genuine  and  unalloyed 
satisfaction." 

After  an  hour  or  two  s[)ent  in  a  pleasant  way,  the  guests 
retired,  mutually  gratified  witli  the  occasion.  Afterwards 
occasional  gentlemen  and  their  wives  dropped  in,  and  it 
was  quite  late  before  the  neighborly  chat  of  the  evening 
was  finished. 

Soon  after  Mr.  Smyth's  nomination,  the  twenty-fifth 
anniversary  (^ftlie  Hanover-street  Congregational  church 
was  observed  in  Smyth's  Hall.  Among  many  other 
tokens  presented  to  the  pastor,  Rev.  Dr.  Cyrus  W.  Wal- 


NOMINATED  FOR  GOVERNOR.  139 

lace,  on  that  occasion,  was  a  gold-headed  cane,  to  the  pur- 
chase of  which  friends  outside  of  the  society  contrihuted, 
and  Mayor  Smyth  made  the  presentation. 

He  said:  "Rev.  Mr.  Wallace,  in  behalf  of  some  of  our 
citizens  outside  of  your  society,  but  who  have  neverthe- 
less not  been .  unmindful  of  your  course  during  these 
twenty-five  years,  I  am  desired  to  present  you  this  staff, 
not  so  much  for  its  intrinsic  worth,  as  a  token  that  we 
recognize  the  fact  that  it  is  to  the  Christian  civilization  of 
this  age  we  owe  individual  prosperity  and  national  great- 
ness. AVe  have  selected  this  staff;  and  although  it  is  ap- 
propriate for  the  support  of  infirmity  or  of  age,  far  distant 
be  the  time  when  you  may  be  obliged  to  use  it.  And 
when  that  inevitable  time  shall  come,  not  fur  distant  for 
any  of  us,  may  it  be  but  a  foreshadow  of  the  realization 
of  that  Scripture  so  familiar  to  you :  '  Thou  God  hast 
been  with  me ;  thy  rod  and  thy  staff  they  comfort  me.'  " 

The  Mirror  of  January  14  contained  a  column  sketch 
of  the  life  of  the  Republican  candidate,  bringing  out  the 
principal  points  in  his  business  career,  and  also  setting 
forth  his  services  in  the  mayoralty,  alluding  to  his  Euro- 
pean trip,  and  experience  at  the  International  Kxhibition 
at  London  in  1862.  One  of  the  strong  points  made  in 
his  favor  was  liis  uniform  habit  of  temperance. 

The  event  justified  the  wisdom  of  the  nomination,  and 
also  fulfilled  the  kindly  auguries  of  his  neighbors,  as 
ex}»resse(l  in  the  woj'ds  of  Mayor  Daniels.  After  a  very 
active  canvass,  Mr.  Smyth  was  elected  by  a  majority  of 
over  six  thousand,  the  largest  majority  given  to  any  gov- 
ernor for  twenty-four  years. 

In  Manchester,  of  course,  there  was  a  very  enthusiastic 
meeting  to  hear  the  election  returns  as  they  came  in. 
After  music  and  much  gratulatory  talk,  for  all  felt  the 
victory  in  the  air,  Hon.  Daniel  Clark  a}»i)eare(l,  and  read 
some  dispatches.     He  announced  that  Frederick  Smyth 


140  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

had  been  elected  governor,  and  moved  that  a  committee 
be  appointed  to  wait  on  him  and  conduct  him  into  the 
hall.     Mr.  G.  C.  Gilmore  and  S.  D.  Lord  were  appointed. 

Mr.  Smyth  then  appeared,  and  was  received  with  the 
most  enthusiastic  applause.  As  he  stepped  upon  the 
platform,  the  Imnd  struck  up  "  Hail  to  the  Chief."  Mr. 
Clark  facetiously  introduced  him  to  the  audience  as  a 
stranger  entirely  unknown  to  them,  who  had  been  elected 
governor  of  Xew  Hampshire.  Mr.  Smyth  spoke  substan- 
tially as  follows :  — 

"  Fellow-citizens :  I  hardly  know  what  to  say  on  this 
occasion.  I  was  never  before  in  such  an  extraordinary 
position,  I  have  just  returned  from  the  telegraph  office, 
where  I  have  been  engaged  with  my  friend,  Captain  Har- 
rington, in  listening  to  the  election  returns.  Fellow-citi- 
zens, this  is  not  the  first  time  you  have  honored  me. 
Once,  twice,  thrice,  yea,  four  times  you  have  elevated 
me  to  the  highest  office  in  this  city,  and  now  through 
your  kindness  and  confidence  I  am  elected  to  a  still  more 
elevated  and  responsible  position,  I  say  it  is  to  your 
partiality  and  eflbrts  that  I  am  indebted  for  this  great 
honor. 

"  I  sometimes  think  you  overestimate  my  abilities,  but 
I  have  lived  among  you  for  twenty-five  years,  and  it  is 
not  wholly  my  fault  if  you  regard  me  with  too  much 
favor, 

"  At  the  convention  which  nominated  me,  a  distin- 
o:uished  and  honorable  u'entleman  received  the  cordial 
support  of  many  of  the  delegates  from  various  parts  of 
the  State,  If  he  had  been  selected  as  the  candidate,  you 
and  I  would  have  given  him  our  liearty  indorsement. 
The  canvass  which  now  closes  has  been  peculiarly  free 
from  bitterness  and  personal  alnise.  I  expected  that  all 
the  foolisb  things  I  ever  did  would  have  been  rehearsed, 
and  I  supposed  that  many  things  would  have  ])een  charged 


NOMINATED    FOR    GOVERNOR.  141 

upon  me  of  which  I  was  never  guilty.  For  this  forbear- 
ance and  fairness  on  the  part  of  my  friends  of  the  oppo- 
sition, I  wish  to  extend  to  them  my  thanks.  As  to  the 
Democratic  candidate,  Mr.  Harrington,  I  wish  to  say  that 
our  private  relations  have  always  been  the  most  pleasant, 
and  I  esteem  him  a  high-minded  and  honorable  man, 
though  I  have  not  the  least  sympathy  with  his  political 
sentiments. 

"  My  friends,  while  I  am  grateful  for  the  distinguished 
honor  wliich  the  people  of  this  State  have  to-day  con- 
ferred upon  me,  I  rejoice  at  the  continued  success  of  the 
great  principles  of  the  Union  Republican  party.  Tlie 
result  of  our  election  to-day  will  carry  joy  to  our  brave 
soldiers  in  the  field,  and  encourage  the  hearts  of  the  pa- 
triots of  this  country  who  are  laboring  to  uphold  the 
Government.  Xow,  my  friends,  j'ou  have  stood  by  me 
thus  far  ;  do  not  desert  me  now.  I  shall  be  liable  to  com- 
mit errors  in  discharging  the  duties  of  the  high  position 
intrusted  to  me.  In  all  emergencies  I  shall  look  to  you 
for  sympathy  and  encouragement.  But  I  promise  you 
that  whatever  abilities  I  may  possess  shall  be  devoted  to 
the  interests  and  welfiire  of  our  State." 

Other  stirring  speeches  were  made  l)y  Hon.  Samuel 
Upton  and  Hon.  David  Cross. 

The  governor-elect,  as  he  reviewed  the  situation,  found 
that  he  was  entering  upon  no  easy  task.  The  State  was 
beofinnimj;  to  feel  severelv  the  stress  of  the  time.  Gradu- 
ally  a  great  debt  had  accumulated,  regiment  after  reiri- 
ment  had  been  promptly  equipped  and  sent  into  the  field, 
the  banks  had  advanced  money  quite  to  the  extent  of 
their  courage,  and  nearly  to  that  of  their  ability.  In  the 
open  market  we  met  the  gold  bonds  of  the  Government, 
free  from  taxes  ;  the  same  trouble  pulsed  through  all  the 
arteries  of  the  body  politic  ;  and  the  people  of  a  State 
always  careful  and  conservative  in  all  its   expenditures. 


142  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

beheld  with  something  like  dismay  this  mountain  of  ob- 
ligations swollen  into  millions.  It  was  almost  impossible 
to  get  money  for  current  expenses.  A  previous  legisla- 
ture had  authorized  the  issue  of  three  and  a  half  millions 
of  six  per  cent  State  bonds,  payable  in  currency ;  only 
$424,000  had  been  taken. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

INAUGURATION   AS    GOVERNOR    OF    NEW    HAMPSHIRE. 

Governor  Smyth  was  inaugurated  on  the  8th  of  June, 
1865,  with  an  unusual  attendance  of  citizen-soldiers,  and 
of  citizens  in  different  walks  of  civil  life,  who  congregated 
to  show  their  appreciation  of  the  unblemished  public  and 
private  character  of  their  new  chief  magistrate.  An  im- 
portant feature  in  the  procession  was  the  Eleventh  I^ew 
Hampshire  Volunteers,  Colonel  Farr,  which  had  seen  the 
Rebellion  snuffed  out,  and  had  come  "  marching  home  " 
to  participate  in  the  inaugural  honors  showered  upon  the 
soldier's  friend. 

The  message  of  the  new  governor  had  been  anxiousl}^ 
looked  for  by  the  people  of  Kew  Hampshire,  with  hopes 
that  it  would  offer  some  panacea  for  the  financial  ills  of 
the  State.  Kor  were  they  doomed  to  disappointment. 
Language  was  not  used  to  conceal  thought,  but  the  new 
chief  magistrate  stated  the  financial  condition  of  the  State, 
and  showed  how  these  obligations  could  be  met.  The 
message  was  as  follows  :  — 

Gentlemen  of  the  Senate  and  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives : 
As  we  assemble  for  the  discharge  of  the  public  duties 
imposed  upon  us,  we  should  be  false  to  our  obligations  as 
members  of  a  Christian  community  did  we  fail  to  recog- 
nize the  goodness  of  that  Providence  which  has  blessed 
country  and  State  during  the  past  year.  How  crowded, 
how  varied,  how  wonderful  has  been  its  historic  record  ! 
Triumph  treading  on  the  heels  of  triumph,  in  quick  sue- 


144  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

cession,  until  the  rebel  capital  falls  and  rebellious  armies 
surrender ;  the  cup  of  joy,  embittered  by  the  brutal  as- 
sassination of  our  great  and  good  President ;  the  capture 
of  the  arch  traitor  and  conspirator,  now  waiting  his  trial 
at  the  hands  of  justice  ;  —  all  these  are  events  to  which  we 
are  yet  too  near  to  rightly  estimate  their  magnitude  and 
influence.  We  cannot  fail,  however,  to  see  that  the  same 
beneficent  Power  which  gave  us  Abraham  Lincoln,  has 
raised  up  out  of  the  crucible  of  fiery  trial  a  successor 
fitted  for  the  period  and  its  requirements. 

Thus  confident  and  thus  grateful,  we  shall  come  to  the 
performance  of  our  duties  with  a  courage  justified  by  the 
past,  and  a  zeal  not  unworthy  of  the  objects  we  have  in 
view  for  the  future.  The  soldier  has  done  his  work,  the 
statesman  has  now  his  to  do.  The  fighting  has  ceased 
and  the  time  for  paying  has  come.  Let  us  apply  our- 
selves at  once  earnestly  to  the  work  before  us.  In  the 
eftbrt  of  the  loyal  States  to  sustain  the  power  of  the  Na- 
tional Government,  Xew  Ilampsliire  has  been  obliged  to 
pledge  the  public  honor  and  use  the  credit  of  the  State  to 
a  very  large  extent. 

FINANCE. 

I  am  unable  to  state  from  personal  knowledge  the 
financial  condition  of  the  State,  but  from  information 
received  from  the  auditor  and  treasurer  it  a})pears  to  be 
nearly  as  follows  :  — 

P\inded  debts  and  trust  funds     .         .         81,623,873  44 
Xotes  due  the  cuiTent  vciir         .         .  2,355,000  00 


Total  debt,  represented  l>y  loans        .  3,978,873  44 

Interest  due  tlie  current  vear     .         .  258,000  00 


Total  debt,  as  represented  by  loans, 

with  cuiTent  interest  .         .         .  4,236,873  44 

Outstanding  obligations  (  sliniated  by 

the  auditor  ....  706,000  00 


FINANCE.  145 

lie  estimates  the  demands  upon  the 
treasiu-y  the  ourvent  year,  includ- 
ing floating  de])t,  interest,  out- 
standing claims,  and  expendi- 
tures   83,o7o,<)/J()  OU 

Deduct  estimated  receipts  .         .  932,100  00 


I^eaves  to  be  provided  for  the  current 

year $2,642,950  00 

This  amount  may  be  increased  to  the  extent  of  what- 
ever claims  may  be  allowed  by  the  legislature,  not  in- 
cluded in  the  estimate  of  the  auditor.  It  may  also  be 
diminished  by  what  evermay  be  received  from  the  Gen- 
eral Government  upon  the  balance  of  our  claim  against 
it,  with  reference  to  which  the  auditor  says  :  "  How  the 
Government  will  look  upon  this  balance,  and  whether  it 
will  be  approved  and  allowed,  remain  as  yet  open  (jues- 
tions,  and  I  have  therefore  deemed  it  unadvisable  to  take 
this  claim  into  consideration  in  making  my  estimates.'' 

I  would  respectfully  call  your  particular  attention  to 
the  details  of  the  able  report  of  the  auditor,  and  the 
important  suggestions  therein. 

How  to  provide  for  this  large  current  indebtedness  is  a 
(juestion  requiring  your  immediate  and  careful  considera- 
tion. I  learn  that  the  executive  department  has  only  been 
able  to  dispose  of  .5424,000  of  the  ^3,500,000  of  the  six 
per  cent  bonds  authorized  by  the  last  legislature:  hence 
the  larger  })art  of  our  8tate  del)t  remains  unfunded.  The 
difticulty  of  negotiating  these  securities  is  not  likely  to  l)e 
diminished  at  present;  I  therefore  recommend  that  au- 
thority be  given  to  issue  six  per  cent  semiannual  interest 
1)onds,  jirinci[)al  and  interest  ])ayable  in  gold,  in  denomi- 
nations of  fifty,  one  hundred,  tive  hun(b'ed,  and  one  thou- 
sand dollars,  on  from  live  to  twenty  years"  time,  as  may 
be  thought  expedient.  While  these  bonds  will  command 
a  more  ready  sale  than  those  })ayable  in  currency,  there 

10 


146  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

is  every  reason  to  expect  that  the  currency  of  the  coun- 
try will  be  equivalent  to  gold  long  before  they  mature. 
Should  the  present  price  of  gold  continue  for  some  time 
to  come,  the  premium  will  not  increase  the  rate  of  inter- 
est in  currency  above  what  the  State  is  now  paying  on 
most  of  its  iioating  debt ;  but  the  pro])abilities  are  all  in 
favor  of  a  lower  and  constantly  receding  rate. 

I  would  also  recommend  that  authority  be  granted  to 
issue  7  -^  per  cent  semiannual  interest  currency  bonds, 
on  from  three  to  live  years,  of  similar  denominations. 
The  advantages  to  be  derived  from  a  variety  of  securities, 
at  the  discretionary  disposal  of  the  proper  authorities, 
will  suggest  themselves  to  you. 

In  entering  the  money  market,  it  nmst  be  borne  in  mind 
that  we  do  so  not  alone  in  competition  with  the  General 
Government,  but  with  other  States,  cities,  and  towns ;  and 
that  however  good  our  credit,  the  exigencies  of  others, 
and  the  large  amount  of  similar  securities  offered,  will 
affect  the  marketable  value  of  our  obligations.  It  is 
impossible  to  fix  for  them  an  arbitrary  value  under  the 
]tresent  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  money  market.  In 
order  to  retain  the  credit  to  which  our  State  is  justly  en- 
titled, and  which  should  be  fully  ecpud  to  that  of  any  of 
the  Xew  England  States,  I  respectfully  submit  that  our 
aim  should  be  to  so  legislate  as  to  prevent  any  increase  of 
our  indebtedness  beyond  present  obligations,  which  the 
luq>iiy  termination  of  the  war  renders  feasible;  and  to 
raise  In'  taxation  an  amount  suthcient  to  defray  current 
expenses,  including  interest  on  the  indebtedness.  "We 
must  now  observe  the  most  rigid  economy  in  expenditure, 
and  bring  the  expenses  to  a  peace  basis  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble. Our  people  are  naturally  economical,  not  prone  to 
indebtedness,  and  instinctively  hold  sacred  all  pecuniary 
obligations.  Aside  from  our  war  debt  we  owe  no  other. 
It  has  never  been  the  habit  of  our  State  to  lend  its  credit, 


WAR    DEBTS    BY   THE   GOVERNMENT.  147 

and  we  have  no  obligations  of  this  character,  either  pres- 
ent or  remote,  to  provide  for.  The  recent  financial 
transactions  of  the  State  having  been  of  such  unusual 
magnitude,  the  most  scrupulous  care  and  greatest  dis- 
crimination will  be  required  in  properly  adjusting  the 
various  and  large  outstanding  claims.  You  will  see  the 
propriety  on  this  occasion  of  my  repeating  the  request  of 
my  predecessor  at  the  commencement  of  his  administra- 
tion :  "  I  wish  to  urge  upon  the  legislature  the  importance 
of  knowing  exactly  the  condition  of  our  State  in  a  finan- 
cial point  of  view,  at  the  commencement  of  the  political 
year,  that  the  administration  which  comes  into  power  to- 
day may  be  held  responsible  for  its  own  acts,  and  nothing 
more.  " 

ASSUMPTION    OF    WAR    DEBTS    BY    THE    GOVERNMENT. 

The  great  debt  growing  out  of  the  war  presses  with 
severity  on  all  the  loyal  States,  cities,  and  towns.  I  look 
for  the  assumption  of  this  indebtedness  by  the  General 
Government  at  the  earliest  practicable  day.  These  obli- 
gations now  rest  on  a  portion  of  the  Union  only,  while 
the  Confederate  debt  is  blotted  out  by  the  triumph  of  our 
arms.  Strict  justice  would  require  that  the  rebellious 
States,  the  cause  of  all  this  expenditure,  should  be  made 
to  pay  it.  But  as  this  is  impractieal)le,  we  should  insist 
upon  their  paying  at  least  a  portion  of  it.  There  is  no 
apparent  reason  why  New  Hampshire  should  come  out  of 
this  war  impoverished  by  her  loyalty,  and  Georgia  escape 
payment  for  her  treason.  The  war  del^t  of  the  loyal  States 
was  incurred,  equally  with  that  of  the  nation,  for  national 
purposes ;  and  they  have  cheerfully  assumed  and  volun- 
tarily l)orne  its  burdens,  under  many  disadvantages.  The 
General  Government,  to  preserve  its  own  life,  has  been 
obliged  to  take  virtual  posses?<iou  of  the  money  market, 
by  exempting  its  securities  from  State  and  municipal  taxa- 


148  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

tion,  and  by  increasing  the  ordinary  rates  of  interest.  This 
has  borne  heavily  upon  the  visible  property,  and  depressed 
the  securities  of  the  States.  "Whatever  means  shall  be 
devised  by  which  a  share  at  least  of  this  burden  shall  be 
discharged  by  those  parties  to  the  Rebellion  to  whom  it 
rightfully  belongs,  will  meet  with  the  cordial  approval  of 
the  people.  When  Congress  manifests  a  disposition  to 
move  in  this  matter,  the  claims  of  our  cities  and  towns 
should  be  adjusted  and  considered.  Any  State  action 
prior  to  this  can  attbrd  no  relief  to  them.  Should  the 
State  now  assume  the  town  debts,  it  must  levy  a  tax 
directly  upon  the  towns  to  pay  them,  —  as  its  present  debt 
is  already  quite  as  large  as  we  shall  be  able  to  fund  or 
manage, —  so  as  to  preserve  its  credit.  It  Avould  seem, 
therefore,  to  be  the  part  of  sound  financial  wisdom  to  wait 
the  action  of  Congress,  and  in  the  meantime  to  take  such 
legislative  action  as  may  be  deemed  advisable  in  order 
to  bring  tlie  subject  properly  before  that  body. 

INDUSTRIAL    RESOURCES. 

Our  unusual  manufacturing  facilities  have  long  been 
known  to  some  of  the  wisest  capitalists  of  the  country. 
The  occupation  of  the  great  water  powers  of  Manchester, 
^N'ashua,  and  Dover  is  but  an  example  of  what  may  be 
done  at  some  future  day  in  many  places  within  our  bor- 
ders. I  consider  it  the  part  of  wisdom  to  encourage  the 
occupation  and  im})rovement  of  these  natural  resources 
of  Js'ew  Hampshire  by  a  liberal  legislative  policy,  and  l>y 
ottering  every  fair  inducement  for  the  investment  of  cap- 
ital in  manufacturing  industry.  This  will  add  to  the 
wealth  of  the  State,  to  the  value  of  all  our  present  insti- 
tutions and  enterprises ;  and  it  will  stimulate  that  occu- 
pation in  which  Xew  Hampshire,  small  and  rugged  as  she 
is,  holds  a  fair  rank  among  the  other  States. 

In  some  branches  of  agriculture  we  have  already  reached 


INDUSTRIAL   RESOURCES.  149 

a  comparative  degree  of  excellence.  In  wheat  growing 
our  average  yield  per  acre  is  12|-  bushels,  and  is  larger 
than  that  of  Maine,  Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware, 
Kentucky,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  or  West 
Virginia.  In  corn  crops  our  average  yield  per  acre  is  29i- 
bushels,  and  is  larger  than  that  of  Maine,  Xew  York, 
Maryland,  Delaware,  Kentucky,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Mis- 
souri, Kansas,  or  Nebraska.  In  potatoes  our  average  yield 
is  164  bushels  per  acre,  and  is  larger  than  that  of  any 
other  State  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  rye  crops 
our  average  yield  per  acre  is  14|-  bushels,  and  is  larger 
than  that  of  Maine,  i^ew  Jersey,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Mich- 
igan, Indiana,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  or  West  Virginia. 
In  the  hay  crop  the  average  yield  is  one  ton  to  the  acre, 
being  larger  than  that  of  Maine  and  equal  to  each  of  the 
other  Xew  England  States.  Of  beef  and  mutton  \vc  pro- 
duce all  that  is  required  for  home  consumption,  with  a 
surplus  for  other  markets. 

These  facts,  derived  from  recent  statistical  returns  of  the 
national  agricultural  department,  indicate  the  relative 
progress  we  have  already  made  in  this  branch  of  industry. 
The  importance  of  local  markets  must  be  apparent,  and 
they  can  l)est  be  increased  by  encouraging  the  growth  of 
manufacturing  towns  and  villages. 

The  heavy  growth  of  timber  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State  must  be  a  source  of  revenue  to  the  owners  for  many 
years  to  come.  Our  minerals  are  also  attracting  more  and 
more  attention.  The  variety  of  ores  existing  in  our  soil 
is  not  surpassed  by  that  of  any  Atlantic  State,  embracing 
iron,  zinc,  copper,  lead,  silver,  and  tin.  It  is  quite  prob- 
able that  the  most  if  not  all  these  ores  may  at  no  distant 
day  l)e  mined  at  a  large  profit.  The  slate  quarries  of  Lit- 
tleton, apparently  inexhaustible,  and  the  rich  lime  beds 
in  that  vicinity,  suitable  for  mechanical  and  agricultural 
purposes,  only  call  for  enterprise  to  develop  sources  of 


150  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

wealth  and  employment.  I  cannot  refrain  from  expressing 
the  hope  that  the  latent  wealth  of  the  State  will  receive 
all  that  attention  which  a  due  regard  to  our  prosperity 
demands. 

RIVER    FISHERIES. 

A  copy  of  the  resolves  of  the  legislature  of  Massachu- 
setts, concerning  the  obstructions  to  the  passage  of  fish  in 
the  Connecticut  and  Merrimack  rivers,  will  be  submitted 
to  you.  These  resolves  provide  for  the  appointment  of 
commissioners,  a  part  of  whose  duty  shall  be  to  ascertain 
whether  the  States  of  New  Hamp«;hire  and  Vermont  "  pos- 
sess the  right  to  maintain,  or  cause  to  be  maintained,  suita- 
ble fishways  for  the  passage  of  fish  up  said  rivers  to  their 
sources,  or  to  any  and  what  extent."  The  value  of  the 
fisheries  on  our  rivers  I  do  not  purpose  here  to  discuss. 
But  I  regret  to  say  that  the  action  of  the  Massachusetts 
legislature  falls  far  short  of  what  we  had  a  right  to  expect. 
The  importance  of  fishways,  to  give  a  free  passage  to  fish 
through  artificial  dams  to  the  waters  of  this  State,  and  the 
obligation  of  Massachusetts  to  construct  them,  have  been 
acknowledged  and  recognized  by  that  State  in  her  acts 
incorporating  the  Essex  and  Lowell  manufacturing  com- 
panies. The  dams  of  these  companies  have  been  so  con- 
structed, however,  as  to  render  the  passage  of  fish  an 
impossibility.  The  rights  and  interests  of  New  Hamp- 
shire in  this  once  important  resource  were  ably  and  fully 
represented  before  a  committee  of  the  Massachusetts  leg- 
islature the  present  year  by  Judge  Bellows.  This  com- 
mittee in  their  report  say:  "  The  resolutions  of  the  State 
of  New  Hampshire  invoked  the  action  of  Massachusetts 
upon  the  ground  of  State  comity  and  the  obligations  of 
international  law.  The  legislation  of  Massachusetts  creat- 
ing the  water  power  at  Lowell  and  Lawrence  made  care- 
ful provision  for  the  maintenance  and  protection  of  the 
fishing  rights  of  the  citizens  of  New  Hampshire  in  Mer- 


RIVER   FISHERIES.  151 

riniack  river.  But  while  the  State  has  been  niindful  of 
its  duty  in  this  regard,  it  must  be  conceded  that  an  injury, 
to  some  extent,  has  been  inflicted  upon  the  riglits  of  New 
Hampshire  by  the  mistaken  determination  of  the  Essex 
conmiissioners  in  prescribing  for  the  iishway  at  Lawrence  ; 
and  the  obligations  of  international  law,*  as  well  as  a 
proper  regard  for  the  rights  of  others,  call  upon  this  State 
to  rectify  the  error  committed  by  its  agents,  if  it  can  be 
done  without  sacriticing  the  greater  interests  which  are 
depending  upon  the  use  of  the  water  for  manufacturing 
purposes."  In  regard  to  injurious  substances  thrown  into 
the  water,  they  say  that  they  "  do  not  regard  it  as  having 
much  weight  against  the  proposed  measure."  They  also 
say  that  "  the  restoration  of  tish  to  the  Merrimack  and 
Connecticut  rivers,  notwithstanding  the  existing  obstruc- 
tions, is  practicable  at  a  comparatively  small  expense." 
Notwithstanding  the  candid  admissions  of  this  committee 
of  the  rights  of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  }>racticability 
of  tishways,  it  will  be  seen  by  the  aforesaid  resolves  that 
commissioners  have  been  appointed,  not  to  cause  the 
proper  fishways  to  be  constructed,  but  to  ascertain  certain 
rights  and  facts  before  conceded,  and  meanwhile  actually 
"  suspending  the  obligations  of  the  Essex  Company  to 
rebuild  a  fish  way  in  their  dam  until  1866." 

I  would  recommend  that  such  action  be  taken  in  the 
premises  as  nuiy  seem  expedient  and  just,  l)y  appointment 
of  commissioners  or  otherwise.  It  is  well  known  that  in 
many  parts  of  Europe,  where  fish  had  been  prevented 
from  ascending  rivers,  they  have  been  entirely  restored 
by  constructing  proper  ladders,  and  are  now  as  numerous 
as  they  were  hundreds  of  years  ago,  before  any  obstruc- 
tions existed.  Professor  Agassiz  and  other  scientific  men 
express  the  decided  opinion  that  the  fish  can  be  entirely 
restored  to  our  Avaters  at  a  very  small  expense.  I  trust 
that  those  interested  will  avail  themselves  of  the  knowl- 


152  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

edge  wliicli  science  and  experience  afford,  and  give  our 
people  the  fall  benefit  of  the  restored  fisheries. 

I  would  also  invite  your  attention  to  the  expediency  of 
making  some  provision  for  the  preservation  of  the  fish  in 
our  lakes  and  other  waters  during  the  spawning  season ; 
and  also  to  the  subject  of  stocking  those  waters  with  other 
varieties. 

AGRICULTURAL    COLLEGE. 

The  condition  of  agriculture  in  our  State  demands  care- 
ful consideration.  According  to  the  census  of  1860,  there 
were  35,392  farmers  and  10,152  farm  laborers,  in  an  ag- 
gregate population  of  326,023,  which  is  by  far  the  largest 
number  of  persons  engaged  in  any  one  occupation  among 
us.  Including  families  in  this  estimate,  it  will  readily  be 
seen  that  every  step  taken  to  improve  this  branch  of  in- 
dustry aftects  nearly  our  entire  population. 

The  agriculture  of  Xew  Hampshire  has  not  reached  any- 
thing like  perfection.  Discussion  is  still  going  on  as  to 
the  best  breeds  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses.  The  general 
principles  of  feeding  with  economy  and  profit  are  not  yet 
laid  down  ;  the  crops  best  adapted  to  various  soils,  loca- 
tions, and  }»urposes  are  not  fixed  beyond  doubt.  A  large 
proportion  of  the  soil  of  our  State  is  yet  unappropriated 
to  any  profitable  purposes,  and  many  farms  now  yielding 
no  profit  might  by  proper  methods  of  cultivation  be  made 
to  return  a  rich  reward.  Immense  reservoirs  of  fertiliz- 
ing material  remain  hidden  and  undisturbed  in  bogs  and 
ravines  scattered  over  the  State,  while  many  of  our  farm- 
ers are  purchasing  at  great  cost,  from  South  America,  a 
material  no  l)etter.  The  saving  and  preparing  of  fertil- 
izers ill  the  most  economical  manner  is  most  sadly  neg- 
lected. Although  we  have  many  prosperous  farmers,  the 
secret  of  their  success  has  not  yet  been  imparted  to  the 
general  community. 

Whatever  system  of  agricultural  education  be  adopted. 


AGRICULTURAL    COLLEGE.  153 

it  should  be  witli  special  reference  to  the  collection  and 
diffusion  of  practical  agricultural  information.  I  would 
by  no  means  ignore  the  benefit  derived  from  profound  in- 
vestigation into  the  depths  of  all  knowledge.  For  such 
purposes  we  are  not  unprovided  with  excellent  schools, 
many  of  them  having  more  than  a  local  or  State  reputa- 
tion, while  the  distinguished  sons  of  our  college,  from 
every  State  and  land,  prove  by  the  tenor  of  their  lives  and 
the  luster  of  their  deeds  the  sterling  virtues  of  the  hon- 
ored mother  that  nurtured  them.  In  addition  to  these,  it 
is  now  proposed  to  found  an  agricultural  college,  to  meet 
and  supply  the  needs  of  the  agricultural  classes.  A  bill 
reported  in  June,  1864,  providing  for  the  organization  of 
such  a  college,  was  referred  to  this  session  of  the  legisla- 
ture, and  a  call  issued,  in  which  an  invitation  was  extended 
to  "  all  such  persons,  institutions  of  learning,  towns,  and 
cities,  as  feel  an  interest  in  the  establishment  of  a  college 
for  the  purpose  of  promoting  the  cause  of  education,  es- 
pecially in  the  department  of  agriculture  and  the  mechanic 
arts,  in  our  State,  and  are  desirous  of  aiding  therein  by 
donation,  to  make  and  forward  their  offers  and  proposi- 
tions to  B.  Gerrish,  Jr.,  clerk  of  the  House,  that  the  same 
may  he  laid  Itefore  the  next  legislature  for  their  action 
thereon." 

Whether  the  college  shall  be  established  on  an  inde- 
pendent foundation,  or  attached  to  some  already  existing 
institution,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  its  especial  object  will 
not  be  lost  sight  of. 

As  a  receptacle  of  the  practical  knowledge  already  pos- 
sessed by  us,  it  may  be  made  very  useful.  We  have  nu- 
merous agricultural  societies,  exerting  great  influence  in 
advancing  the  material  interests  of  the  State,  encouraging 
the  best  modes  of  farming,  and  constantly  collecting  val- 
uable facts  drawn  from  experience,  the  best  foundation  ot 
all  aorricultural  knowledge.     If  the  trustees  of  the  pro- 


154  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

posed  college  should  be  constituted  a  board  of  agriculture, 
exercising  some  supervision  over  these  societies,  collecting 
from  their  records  whatever  may  be  valuable,  and  distri- 
buting it  among  the  people,  the  institution  would  perform 
at  once  a  most  useful  service.  In  no  way  is  the  general 
agricultural  mind  aroused  so  thoroughly  to  action  as  by 
oral  instruction.  I  trust,  therefore,  that  the  delivery  of 
lectures  throughout  the  State  upon  topics  relating  directly 
to  the  business  of  agriculture,  will  be  made  a  part  ot  the 
duty  of  the  teachers  and  students  of  the  college.  Such 
lectures  might  be  made  to  awaken  attention  to  horticul- 
ture and  kindred  pursuits,  which  lend  such  grace  and 
beauty  alike  to  city  and  rural  life.  Thus  the  sons  and 
daughters  of  the  farmer  may  tind  at  home  those  attractions 
which  they  are  too  often  and  unfortunately  obliged  to  seek 
abroad,  and  they  will  grow  up  with  love,  instead  of  dis- 
taste, for  the  farm.  The  remembrance  of  the  cottage 
vines,  the  garden  fruits  and  flowers,  the  trees  that  adorn 
the  wayside,  give  freshness  to  the  mind,  and  form  the 
strongest  ties  that  bind  us  to  the  influence  of  home. 

An  experimental  farm  with  manual  labor  should  un- 
doubtedly form  a  part  of  the  organization  and  discipline 
of  the  institution.  To  succeed  at  all  it  must  command  the 
confidence  of  the  farmers  ;  its  modes  and  requirements 
must  be  adapted  to  their  needs  and  circumstances ;  and  it 
must  be  i»repared  to  deal  with  things  as  they  are,  before 
expecting  great  success  in  making  them  as  they  ought  to 
be.  Many  farmers  wlio  cannot  spare  their  sons  two  or 
three  years,  should  not  be  deprived  of  the  benefit  of  a 
single  term  if  they  desire  it;  while  the  objection  to  a  class 
of  [irofessional  farmers,  one  or  two  of  whom  in  a  town 
might  waste  all  their  strength  in  combating  the  prejudices 
of  their  less  fortunate  neighl)ors,  would  l)e  obviated  by 
the  more  general  difi'usion  of  agricultural  knowledge. 
Give  a  full  course  to  those  who  desire,  or  can  afford  it,  but 


BANKS.  155 

welcome  at  all  proper  times  those  whose  term  must  be 
brief.  Guided  by  such  general  principles,  I  am  confident 
that  good  wishes  and  constant  patronage  would  gather 
around  the  institution.  There  are  indications  already  of 
the  generosity  of  those  who  understand  the  value  of  a 
well  educated  and  enlightened  agricultural  community. 
I  understand  that  the  generous  and  munificent  proposition 
of  Hon.  David  Culver,  to  aid  in  the  establishment  of  the 
proposed  institution,  is  still  continued  subject  to  your 
action. 

BANKS. 

From  the  report  of  the  bank  commissioners  it  will  ap- 
pear that  the  amount  of  deposits  in  savings  banks  in  this 
State  is  $7,831,335.72,  being  an  increase  of  $167,577.26 
over  the  previous  year.  When  it  is  remembered  how  lib- 
erally our  people  have  invested  their  surplus  funds  in  gov- 
ernment securities,  this  increase  of  deposits  afl:brds  very 
gratifying  evidence  of  the  prosperity,  as  well  as  the  fru- 
gality of  our  people,  under  the  relaxing  influences  of  an 
exhaustive  war.  The  banks  of  discount  are  fast  surren- 
dering their  State  charters,  and  passing  into  national 
associations. 

At  the  last  June  session  of  the  legislature  the  laws  appli- 
cable to  State  banks  were  applied  to  national  banking 
associations.  I  understand  that  the  national  banks  have 
declined  to  make  the  required  returns  on  the  ground  that 
this  enactment  is  in  conflict  witli  the  national  currency 
act.  Should  this  be  found  to  be  the  case,  I  trust  you  will 
so  modify  it  as  to  conform  to  the  law  of  Congress.  Some 
difficulty  seems  also  to  exist  in  relation  to  the  taxation  of 
the  stock  of  national  banks,  as  the  natioiuil  act  provides 
that  the  stock  shall  be  taxed  where  the  bank  is  located, 
and  not  elsewhere.  Common  justice  would  seem  to  re- 
quire that  this  tax  should  be  distributed  among  the  towns 
and  cities  where  the  stock  is  owned,  and  not  all  api»ro- 


156  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

priated  by  the  particular  locality  where  the  bank  happens 
to  have  its  place  of  business.  Besides,  it  may  not  be  con- 
sistent with  our  laws,  as  they  noAv  stand,  to  tax  a  stock- 
holder for  his  bank  stock  in  any  place  other  than  that  of 
his  residence.  I  invite  your  attention  to  this  subject,  and 
recommend  such  legislation  as  shall  remove  this  difficult}-, 
in  order  that  this  species  of  property  may  not  escape  its 
just  share  of  local  taxation,  as  Congress  e^idently  did  not 
intend  it  should. 

SCHOOLS. 

The  rapid  conversion  of  our  State  banks  into  national 
banking  institutions  will  soon  withdraw  from  the  schools 
the  literary  fund,  which  has  heretofore  contributed  so 
largely  to  their  support.  I  trust  that  this  deficiency  will 
not  be  allowed  to  diminish  the  usefulness  of  that  sj'stem 
so  justly  the  pride  of  our  people.  However  desirable  it 
may  be  to  bring  our  expenditures  within  the  limits  of  a 
wise  economy,  we  cannot  attbrd  to  retrench  here.  The 
fullness  of  time  can  only  measure  what  we  owe  to  our 
liberal  system  of  education.  The  free  school  is  the  only 
safe  basis  for  a  free,  enlightened,  and  prosperous  State. 
I  doubt  not  this  subject  will  receive  due  attention  at  your 
hands,  and  if  any  legislation  shall  be  deemed  necessary, 
to  maintain  or  increase  the  excellence  of  the  common 
schools,  the  cordial  co-operation  of  the  executive  will  not 
be  found  wanting. 

THE  ASYLUM  FOR  THE  INSANE 

Is  quietly  performing  a  great  work  of  beneticence,  in  its 
<;xtensive  ministrations  to  the  relief  of  an  unfortunate  class 
of  our  citizens.  The  generous  appropriations  of  the  State 
for  its  erection  and  enlargements  have  been  productive  of 
vast  good,  and  it  stands  to-day  one  of  the  most  satisfactory 
evidences  of  the  general  beneficence  of  the  people,  and  a 
l>lessin(r  and  honor  to  the  State. 


HOUSE    OF    REFORMATION.  157 

From  a  recent  inspection  of  its  various  departments,  I 
feel  contident  that  its  patients,  of  all  classes,  are  skillfully 
and  tenderly  cared  for,  and  its  financial  interest  wisely 
administered.  It  is  highly  creditable  to  the  able  superin- 
tendent, that  notwithstanding  the  greatly  enhanced  prices 
of  provisions  and  labor  during  the  last  four  years,  he  has 
furnished  the  patients  all  the  attention  and  comforts 
they  have  enjoyed  in  more  favored  times,  without  any 
serious  increase  of  the  price  of  board,  or  the  incurring  of 
any  indebtedness.  It  is  gratifying  to  know  that  the  per- 
manent funds  of  the  asylum,  bequeathed  to  it  from  time 
to  time,  are  regarded  by  its  judicious  numagersas  a  sacred 
trust,  and  are  carefully  invested,  the  income  only  being 
expended.  The  farm  has  now  become  to  the  institution 
an  important  source  of  revenue,  and  I  was  pleased  to  notice 
similar  care  in  the  production  and  application  of  fertilizing 
material,  observed  upon  the  best  cultivated  estates  of 
England  and  the  continent  of  Europe,  The  same  prac- 
tice upon  our  farms  would  in  a  few  years  double  the  crops 
of  the  State.  In  1855  a  wing  was  erected  ui)on  the  north 
side  of  the  asylum  for  the  special  accommodation  of  the 
violent  insane.  The  present  crowded  condition  of  the 
female  apartments,  as  well  as  a  more  perfect  classification 
of  patients,  forcibly  suggests  the  erection,  as  soon  as  the 
tiiuincial  condition  of  the  State  will  justify  it,  of  another 
of  similar  character  for  females. 

HOUSE    OF    llEFORMATION. 

This  institution  is  still  in  its  infancy,  yet  it  has  not 
only  met  the  sanguine  expectations  of  its  friends,  but  has 
silenced  the  clamor  and  the  criticism  of  its  enemies,  as  has 
uniforndy  been  the  experience  of  similar  institutions  in 
all  parts  of  the  world.  The  oltject  designed  to  be  accom- 
plished by  its  establishment,  the  reformation  of  our  unfor- 
tunate and  wayward  youth,  commends  itself  to  a  humane 


158  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

and  Christian  people ;  and  so  well  is  it  doing  its  allotted 
work,  that  no  institution  of  our  State  is  more  firmly  es- 
tablished in  popular  favor,  or  takes  a  deeper  hold  upon 
the  sympathies  and  regards  of  the  people. 

The  annual  increase  of  the  products  of  the  farm,  under 
the  judicious  management  of  the  superintendent,  is  large, 
and  the  land  is  rapidly  improving  in  productiveness  and 
value.  I  am  sure  you  will  readily  grant  the  small  appro- 
priation asked  for  by  the  trustees. 

STATE    PRISON. 

The  condition  of  the  State  prison  appears  to  be  all  that 
could  be  expected.  During  the  past  year  the  institution 
has  not  proved  self-supporting,  as  in  former  years.  This 
is  explained  by  the  reduction  of  the  numbers  of  inmates, 
which  lessens  its  productive  capacity,  and  the  augmented 
expense  of  living ;  while  a  very  large  portion  of  the  con- 
victs are  still  employed  under  a  contract  executed  prior 
to  the  advance  in  the  prices  of  labor. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  convicts,  and  the  condi- 
tion of  the  institution,  reliect  credit  on  its  managers. 
Improvements  have  recently  been  made  in  the  buildings 
and  yard,  which  add  much  to  the  comfort  and  convenience 
of  the  prisoners,  and  greatly  facilitate  the  business  opera- 
tions of  the  prison. 

MILITIA. 

The  report  of  the  adjutant-general  will  give  you  the 
proper  information  regarding  the  military  department  of 
the  State.  However  much  we  may  all  rejoice  at  the  re- 
turn of  peace,  the  lessons  of  the  past  have  been  too  costly 
not  to  warn  us  that  to  be  prepared  for  war  may  save  us 
from  it.  It  will  therefore  be  wise  to  make  a  good  use  of 
the  military  spirit  which  our  returning  soldiers  may  carry 
to  their  respective  towns.  It  is  not  at  present  desirable 
to  increase  the  State  expenditures  in  this  direction,  nor 


OUR    SOLDIERS.  159 

am  I  prepared  to  reconiniend  any  amendment  to  our  pres- 
ent military  system  ;  but  discretionary  power  given  to  the 
towns  to  provide  uniforms  for  volunteer  military  compa- 
nies that  are  now,  or  may  be,  organized  in  tlieir  midst, 
would  have  a  beneficial  eftect.  The  world  aftbrds  no  bet- 
ter material  than  we  shall  soon  have  for  the  formation  of 
a  volunteer  militia.  Let  us  see  to  it  that  this  valuable  ex- 
perience be  not  lost  to  the  State  and  country  by  the  neg- 
lect to  give  efiiciency  and  moral  force  to  the  militia  laws. 

OUR    SOLDIERS. 

The  condition  of  our  national  affairs,  so  full  of  heroic 
accomplishment  and  of  hope,  must  remind  us  of  the  ob- 
ligations we  are  under  to  pay  all  honor  to  those  sons 
of  Xew  Hampshire  who  have  won  for  her  on  the  battle- 
field a  share  of  the  renown  of  the  American  people. 
Since  the  war  commenced,  we  have  furnished  33,427 
troops  for  the  national  cause.  Of  these,  11,039  have  been 
disabled,  and  5,518  have  fallen  in  the  conflict,  and  have 
left  names  for  our  perpetual  remembrance,  and  their  ex- 
ample for  our  most  faithful  imitation. 

Our  State  will  never  be  unmindful  of  the  heroic  deeds 
of  her  sons  in  the  great  struggle  for  national  life.  They 
sprang  to  arms  at  the  first  call,  and  no  considerable  bat- 
tle has  been  fought  in  which  they  have  not  participated. 
During  the  early  days  of  the  Kebellion,  they  were  at 
times  cast  down  by  temporary  defeat,  but  in  every  in- 
stance only  to  rally  with  renewed  vigor.  Our  record 
shows  that  in  nearly  all  the  now  historic  engagements  of 
the  war,  and  finally  at  the  last  grand  charge  which  broke 
the  embattled  line  of  rebellion,  Xew  Hampshire,  through 
her  heroic  sons,  bore  honorably  her  part.  It  will  not  be 
easy  for  us  to  }tay  our  debt  of  gratitude  to  these  brave 
men.  Wa  are  indebted  to  their  fearless  devotion  for  tlie 
elevation  of  our  National   (Tovernment   to  its  }>osition  of 


160  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

power  and  moral  dignity.  Has  our  land  been  purified 
and  redeemed?  It  was  by  their  blood.  Are  the  hopes  of 
humanity  raised  to  a  long-wished-for  point  of  consumma- 
tion ?  It  is  by  their  self-sacrifice.  Is  there  now  a  glori- 
ous opi)ortunity  for  America  to  advance  in  all  those 
things  which  make  a  people  great?  This  opportunity 
lias  been  gained  by  the  undying  determination  of  our 
soldiers  to  defend  the  flag  against  every  foe,  and  their 
readiness  to  recognize  the  force  of  every  high  principle 
advanced  during  the  conflict.  Let  it  not  be  said  of  us 
who  enter  into  the  fruits  of  their  labors,  that  we  have 
neglected  to  record  the  memory  of  our  fallen  heroes  on 
monuments  worthy  of  their  deeds  and  fame.  I  desire  to 
call  your  attention  to  the  case  of  those  soldiers  perma- 
nently disabled  in  the  service  of  their  country.  The 
scanty  provisions  of  the  General  Government  will  in 
many  cases  prove  entirely  inadequate  for  their  support  or 
that  of  their  families,  and  the  assistance  of  the  towns  and 
cities  in  which  they  reside  will  necessarily  be  invoked. 

I  recommend  that  in  all  eases  where  soldiers  or  their 
families  are  assisted  in  this  manner,  the  laws  be  so 
amended  that  none  of  the  disabilities  that  attach  to  pau- 
pers shall  apply  to  them.  I  wish  also  to  earnestly  recom- 
mend that  all  persons  in  places  of  influence,  all  who  have 
lionora])le  employment  to  ofler,  should  discriminate,  when 
possible,  in  favor  of  the  returned  soldier. 

Encourage  those  who  are  disabled,  in  any  industry  of 
which  they  may  be  capal>le.  Let  the  soldier  sec  that 
while  we  revere  the  name  and  fame  of  the  dead,  we  do 
not  forget  the  best  and  highest  welfare  of  the  living.  80 
sliall  we,  and  those  who  come  after  us,  be  worthy  of  the 
blessings  which  have  l)een  poured  out  upon  us  by  Ilim 
who  has  guided  our  counsels  and  our  armies  in  this  great 
war. 

Tlie  ample  accommodations  of  the  United  States  Hos- 


GETTYSBURG    CEMETERY.  161 

pital  in  our  State  being  now  but  partially  occupied,  there 
seems  to  be  no  necessity  for  any  considerable  ex})en8e  in 
providing  for  our  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  at  distant 
localities  ;  and  the  preferences  of  the  soldiers  would  un- 
doubtedly be  gratitied  by  an  early  removal  to  the  vicinity 
of  their  friends.  The  happy  close  of  the  war,  and  the 
discharge  of  so  many  of  the  disabled,  has  greatly  reduced 
the  number  to  be  thus  cared  for. 

RE(iIMENTAL    FLAGS. 

A  number  of  regiments  have  returned  their  original 
battle-flags  to  the  State,  and  others  will  soon  do  so.  I 
would  suggest  that  these  proud  l)ut  sad  memorials  of  our 
recent  terrible  conflict  be  conspicuously  displayed  in  the 
halls  of  your  delil)erations,  that  by  them  we  may  be  con- 
stantly reminded,  not  only  of  the  fortitude  and  devotion 
of  those  who  bore  them  upon  the  march  and  in  the  hour 
of  battle,  but  also  of  our  own  obligation  to  sacredly  pre- 
serve the  fruits  of  their  sacrifices. 

GETTYSBURG    CEMETERY. 

The  report  of  Hon.  Ira  Perloy,  commissioner  from  this 
State  upon  the  national  soldiers'  cemetery  at  Getty  si  )urg, 
will  inform  you  of  the  progress  of  this  patriotic  enter- 
prise, which  commends  itself  to  the  favor  and  the  warm- 
est sympathy  of  all  loyal  people.  It  will  be  seen  that  as 
yet  the  bodies  of  only  forty-nine  Xew  Hampshire  soldiers 
have  been  recognized,  and  of  these  the  names  of  only 
twenty-seven  are  known.  This  can  1)C  but  a  snuill  }>art 
of  our  heroes  who  sleep  upon  that  consecrated  field. 
You  will  judge  when  the  sul)iect  comes  l)ef()re  you 
whether  any  further  efibrt  is  feasible  to  rescue  from  ol)liv- 
ion  the  names  of  those  as  yet  unrecognized,  whose  mem- 
ory is  a  part  of  our  common  glory,  and  will  be  cherished 
as  lonir  as  our  race  endures. 


162  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

CONSTITUTIONAL    AMENDMENT. 

Among  tlie  most  important  questions  to  be  submitted 
to  your  action  is  that  of  the  constitutional  amendment, 
forever  forbidding  slavery.  Controlling  or  influencing 
much  of  the  general  legislation  of  the  country,  for  the 
greater  part  of  our  national  existence,  its  arrogance 
finally  plunged  us  into  the  war  which  proved  its  own  ruin. 
It  remains  for  us  to  declare  l)y  this  amendment  that  it 
shall  not  be  re-established  when  State  governments  here- 
tofore in  rebellion  again  resume  their  action.  To  do  this 
in  a  peaceful  and  legitimate  manner  requires  the  votes  of 
three  fourths  of  the  States.  Twenty-two  States  have  al- 
ready so  declared.  May  we  not  hope  that  Xew  Hamp- 
shire will  be  so  far  true  to  the  needs  of  tlie  country,  the 
voice  of  the  times,  and  the  sentiment  of  the  civilized 
world,  as  to  give  tlie  unanimous  vote  of  her  legislature  in 
favor  of  this  measure  ? 

NATIONAL    AFFAIRS. 

Called  to  a  position  allied  to  the  Federal  authority  by 
a  common  interest,  I  should  hardly  discharge  my  full 
duty,  did  I  fail  on  this  occasion  to  allude  to  the  condition 
of  the  Tnion,  now  again,  thanks  be  to  Almighty  God,  one 
and  indivisible.  From  the  outbreak  of  the  Rebellion, 
Kew  Hampshire  has  stood  firndy  by  the  fiag;  and  know- 
ing what  we  do  to-day  of  the  scope  and  aim  of  the  great 
conspiracy,  and  of  the  infamous  means  which  accom- 
plished its  inception  and  urged  on  its  progress,  can  any 
one  regret  that  the  State  was  so  far  true  to  her  honored 
name  and  her  noble  memories  as  to  offer  without  stint  of 
her  men  and  means,  for  the  re-establishment  of  the  na- 
tional authority?  As  the  great  contest  progressed,  we 
were  naturally  drawn  closer  and  closer  to  the  supi)0rt  of 
the  central  power;  and  as  we  suffered  with  every  shock 
tinit  threatened   its  existence,   so   we    rejoiced  and   took 


NATIONAL    AFFAIRS.  163 

courage  as  victory  after  victory  perched  upon  our  banners, 
and  felt  renewed  strength  as  the  rightful  authority  of  the 
Government  was  resumed  over  its  usurped  territory.  The 
country,  and  the  whole  country,  will  henceforth  be  worth 
to  ISTew  Hampshire  a  sum  measured  only  by  the  blood  she 
has  offered  in  the  common  cause,  and  we  shall  all  prize 
with  greater  value,  and  watch  Avith  more  untiring  care, 
rights  purchased  at  so  great  a  sacrifice. 

I  congratulate  you,  gentlemen,  on  the  success  which 
has  attended  the  efforts  to  restore  the  Union,  and  to  estab- 
lish it  on  foundations  of  truth  and  justice.  Our  armies 
have  not  only  carried  with  tliem  a  restored  authority,  but 
they  have  opened  the  way  for  a  higher  and  nobler  civiliza- 
tion, without  which  there  can  be  no  free  government,  and 
with  which  rebellion  is  impossible.  For  myself  I  shall 
feel  that  the  great  purpose  of  this  war  is  not  attained,  the 
great  lesson  of  this  punishment  not  learned,  until  fref 
schools,  free  churches,  and  a  free  ballot  are  established 
wherever  the  Federal  authority  extends.  This  we  owe 
to  the  good  order  and  perman^ent  security  of  all  the  States ; 
this  alone  will  be  a  commensurate  reward  for  the  unpar- 
alleled heroism  of  the  brave  soldiers  who  have  borne  us 
through  the  contest.  On  such  a  consummation  only  can 
we  expect  the  continued  favor  of  heaven,  and  the  blessing 
of  the  God  of  our  fathers.  Let  the  awful  scenes  through 
which  we  have  passed  teach  us  our  duty.  The  blood  of 
the  sons  of  Xew  Hampshire,  mingled  Avith  that  of  others 
from  every  loyal  State,  calls  to  us  from  a  hundred  battle- 
fields to  stand  true  to  the  great  cause,  through  all  the  ex- 
ultations of  victory  and  amidst  the  signs  of  accomplished 
peace. 

The  spirit  of  the  last  great  martyr  for  universal  enum- 
cipation,  lifted  above  the  cares  and  weaknesses  of  this  life, 
bids  us  be  true  to  the  cause.  In  our  sorrow  even  let  us 
take  courage,  and  make  the  lu'utal  assassination  of  our 


164  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

noble  President — that  most  wicked  fruit  of  a  barbarous 
system  —  confirm  us  in  the  resolution  to  make  universal 
freedom  a  synonym  for  universal  suffrage,  under  such  safe- 
guards as  wise  legislation  may  provide.  All  must  agree 
that  the  States  which  have  been  in  rebellion  should  not 
hereafter  l)e  controlled  by  rebels  and  traitors ;  and  as  we 
do  not  }»ropose  to  admit  again  into  the  Union  the  cause  of 
all  this  evil,  so  let  us  extend  to  the  loyal  citizen,  of  what- 
ever color,  those  rights  justly  earned  by  patience,  devotion, 
and  firm,  unwavering  faithfulness  to  the  common  cause. 

The  weakness,  dependence,  and  ignorance  of  the  race 
whose  broken  shackles  have  paved  our  way  to  victory,  are 
so  many  potent  reasons  why  its  condition  should  no  longer 
be  left  uncertain  or  insecure.  This  question  of  negro 
sufirage  is  one  of  those  defenses  behind  which  the  spirit 
of  slavery  will  yet  intrench  itself,  and  by  which  it  will 
seek  to  regain  some  fragment  of  the  power  it  has  justly 
lost.  If  we  would  have  an  enduring  and  prosperous  peace, 
we  shall  level  every  obstruction,  concede  nothing  to  the 
prejudices  of  slavery,  and  give  the  freedman  the  right  to 
assert  that  manhood  peacefully  at  the  ballot-box,  which  he 
has  so  nobly  proved  on  the  battle-field.  Let  no  fears  or 
apparent  ditfieulties  in  the  way  deter  us.  There  is  no 
danger  so  great  to  a  nation  as  the  existence  of  a  flagrant 
injustice  in  its  midst,  sanctioned  and  protected  by  its  au- 
thority. Let  us,  therefore,  be  just,  and  hope  for  contin- 
ued favor  from  the  Source  of  all  prosperity. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

PEACE    AND    PROSPERITY. 

After  the  inauguration  ceremonies,  the  governor  and 
other  distinguished  citizens  dined  with  the  governor's 
Horse  Guards,  and  in  response  to  the  second  reguhir  toast. 
Governor  Smyth  briefly  responded,  saying  that  he  felt  that 
he  had  done  his  share  of  talking  for  the  day,  Ijut  lie  could 
not  help  returning  his  sincere  thanks  to  the  soldiers  for 
the  splendid  manner  in  which  they  had  performed  escort 
duty.  The  honor  of  the  State  could  not  be  better  pre- 
served than  by  the  volunteer  militia  of  the  State.  While 
he  had  not  the  power  of  his  predecessor,  he  certainly  had 
the  inclination  to  foster  it.  This  occasion  was  also  one  of 
peculiar  gratification,  as  he  saw  Concord  and  Manchester 
united.  There  had  been  reports  of  jealousy  between  the 
cities,  but  after  the  gratifying  reception  given  to  Manches- 
ter to-day,  he  did  not  believe  that  it  existed  in  Concord, 
and  felt  that  it  ought  not  to  exist  in  Manchester.  In  con- 
clusion he  would  say  that  tliere  was  a  verse  in  Scripture 
which  declared  that  "  Let  not  him  that  putteth  his  armor 
on,  boast,  but  rather  him  that  layeth  it  aside."  In  accord- 
ance with  that  sentiment,  he  hoDed  to  hoar  from  Go\'eruor 
Gilmore,  who  briefly  res})onded. 

This  first  year  was  a  very  l)usy  one,  and  among  the  most 
onerous  of  its  tasks  was  that  of  establishing  the  credit  of 
the  State.  Within  three  montlis  from  the  delivery  of  the 
message  over  one  million  of  dollars  were  raised  on  favora- 
ble terms,  a  large  amount  of  which  was  furnished  by 
Manchester  banks  on  })ersonal  solicitation. 

From  that  time  forward  the  financial  affairs  of  the  State 
received  the  most  scru})ulous  attention.     In  the  haste  and 


166  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

waste  of  war,  unavoidable  confusion  at  times  arose  in  ac- 
counts between  the  several  States  and  the  General  Gov- 
ernment, and  it  was  not  only  then  impossible  to  pay  our 
debts,  but  equally  so  to  get  our  dues.  Governor  Smyth's 
large  acquaintance  with  men  gave  him  influence  at  head- 
quarters, and  he  suffered  no  opportunity  to  pass  to  advo- 
cate the  claim  of  his  State. 

In  the  first  months  of  the  administration  the  Xew  Hamp- 
shire regiments  were  returning  from  the  war.  They  were 
to  be  cared  for,  paid,  and  properly  discharged  by  the 
authorities  of  the  State  they  had  honored. 

Governor  Smyth  was  especially  desirous  that  every 
honor  should  be  paid  to  these  brave  men,  and  he  took 
care  to  address  them  in  terms  of  warmest  appreciation. 
The  several  regiments  arrived  home  and  were  discharged 
at  Concord  in  order  of  time  as  follows :  — 

June     7,  Eleventh  Regiment. 

June  14,  Ninth  Regiment. 

June  19,  Xew  Hampshire  Battery. 

.June  25,  Tenth  Regiment. 

July      1,  Thirteenth  Regiment. 

Jtily     3,  Twelfth  Regiment. 

July     8,  Fifth  Regiment. 

July   21,  Cavalry. 

.Tuly   22,  Sixth  Regiment. 

July   2;],  Seventh  Regiment. 

July   28,  Tliii-d  Regiment. 

Aug.     8,  Eighteenth  Regiment. 

Aug.  v.],  Fourteentli  and  Fifte«tnth  Regiments. 

Aug.  2n,  Sixteenth  Regiment. 

Aug.  27,  Fourth  Regiment. 

Nov.     f),  Eighth  Regiment. 

And  finally,  on  December  25,  Christmas  day,  General 
Marston's  regiment,  the  Second,  fittingly  closed  up  the 
long  roll,  niKh-r  command  of  Colonel  Joab  Patterson. 

Probal)ly  the  Fourth  of  July  immediately  following 
the  rlose  of  the  war  was  observed  with  a  better  idea  of 


A    PROCLAMATION.  167 

its  significance  than  had  characterized  any  similar  day 
since  its  institution,  and  Governor  Smyth  issued  the  pro- 
clamation which  follows. 

STATE  OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

BY    HIS    EXCELLENCY    THE    (iOVERNOR,    A    PROCLAMATION. 

Peace  smiles  once  more  upon  our  whole  land.  The 
devastation  of  war  has  ceased,  and  the  fearful  waste  of  life 
is  ended.  The  armies  of  the  Great  Rebellion,  which  for 
four  long  years  have  desolated  our  country  and  defied  its 
authorities,  are  broken  and  dispersed,  and  organized 
armed  resistance  to  the  Government  is  everywhere  sup- 
pressed. Traitors  who  have  so  haughtily  defied  our  fiag 
are  now  bowed  in  submission  before  it,  and  suing  for  par- 
don and  mercy  at  the  hands  of  the  Government  they 
sought  to  destroy. 

Our  war-worn  veterans  who  left  their  peaceful  pursuits 
for  the  hardships,  the  privations,  the  sutt'crings,  and  the 
perils  of  the  camp,  the  nuu'cli,  and  the  battle-field,  are  re- 
tracing their  footsteps  to  the  waiting  homes  they  have  so 
bravely  and  successfully  defended.  To  them  we  owe  no 
ordinary,  no  common  welcome.  The  masterly  achieve- 
ments of  our  armies,  which  so  recently  secured  to  us 
these  wonderful  results,  owing  to  tlic  tragic  event  by 
Avhich  they  were  succeeded  have  not  as  yet  received  that 
formal  and  public  recognition  which  their  momentous 
importance  should  secure,  and  which  they  will  ever 
hereafter  receive. 

I,  therefore,  with  the  advice  of  the  lionoral)le  council, 
recommend  to  all  the  people  of  the  State  to  embrace  the 
approaching  anniversary  of  our  national  independence  as 
a  fitting  day  and  op})ortunity  to  extend  a  cordial  public 
welcome  to  our  returning  soldiers,  and  also,  in  addition 
to  the  customary  observance  of  that  day,  t(^  appropriately 
commemorate  the  lieroic  and  brilliant  achievements  of 
our  armies  and  navy  in  }>reserving  the  life  and  enhancing 


168  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

the  glory  of  the  Republic  which  our  fathers  on  that  day, 
eighty-nine  years  ago,  gave  to  the  great  cause  of  liberty 
and  justice,  upon  the  shores  of  the  New  World. 

Never  before  had  we  such  occasion  for  thanksgiving 
and  praise  to  that  merciful  Providence  which  has  held  us 
in  its  guardian  care  and  keeping ;  and  I  trust  that  through- 
out the  State,  in  every  town  and  city,  the  people  will 
unite  in  such  demonstrations  as  will  suitably  express  the 
gratitude  and  joy  which  all  feel  at  this  great  deliverance 
from  war  and  national  peril. 

Given  at  the  council  chamber,  this  twenty-first  day  of 
June,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
and  sixty-five,  and  of  the  Independence  of  the  United 
States  the  eighty-ninth. 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

By  His  Excellenc}-  the  Governor. 

Waltek  Harkimax,  Secretary  of  State. 

Under  a  resolve  of  the  legislature  passed  June  30, 
the  governor  and  council  appointed  Samuel  D.  Bell,  Asa 
Fowler,  and  George  Y.  Sawyer  commissioners  to  codify 
and  amend  the  statute  laws  of  the  State. 

Tlie  correspondence  alone  arising  out  of  the  anoma- 
lous condition  of  aftairs  in  the  country  was  enough  to  tax 
the  governor's  time  to  a  very  great  extent.  Few  of  these 
letters,  of  course,  have  anything  more  than  the  temporary 
interest  which  passed  away  with  the  exigency  which  called 
them  forth. 

.Tune  18,  1865,  Governor  Smytli  Avrote  to  the  secre- 
tary of  war,  Hon.  E.  M.  Stanton,  as  follows:  — 

''  My  Dear  Sir  :  I  am  in  daily  receipt  of  communica- 
tions from  sick  and  wonnded  Xew  Hampshire  soldiers  in 
difiercnt  parts  of  our  coimtrv,  earnestly  imploring  aid  in 
obtaining  tlicir  transfer  to  the  Government  Hospital  at 
Manchester  in  this  State.  The  friends  of  such  soldiers 
are    also   anxious   that   they  should    be    brought    within 


LETTERS  BY  THE  GOVERNOR.  169 

reach  of  their  friendly  ministrations  at  the  earhest  practi- 
cal day.  I  am  informed  hy  the  surgeon  in  charge  of  the 
hospital  at  Manchester  that  it  has  an  improved  capacity 
of  from  three  to  four  hundred  heds.  I  wish  to  inquire  if 
any  objection  exists  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to  the 
immediate  transfer  of  our  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  to 
this  hospital  ;  and  if  no  such  objection  exists,  I  desire 
most  res[iectfully  to  urge  that  such  a  transfer  be  made.  " 

June  26,  the  governor's  private  secretary,  C.  II.  Bart- 
lett,  Esq.,  writes  to  Wm.  "VVyman,  Portsmouth  Grove, 
R.  I.  :  — 

"  Dear  Sir  :  Your  letter  to  Governor  Smyth,  dated 
June  23,  is  received,  and  I  am  directed  to  say  in  rej)ly 
that  he  sincerely  sympathizes  witli  you,  and  from  the 
many  letters  he  is  receiving  from  your  hospital,  of  a 
character  similar  to  yours,  he  cannot  doubt  that  your 
complaints  are  well  founded. 

"  He  will  renew  his  application  to  the  surgeon-general 
for  your  transfer,  and  that  of  all  other  New  IIam}>sliire 
soldiers  there,  to  the  hospital  at  Manchester.  The  a})pli- 
cation  will  be  made  immediately,  and  I  trust  your  wishes 
will  soon  be  gratitied.  *' 

And  on  the  27th  of  the  same  month,  he  wrote  to  Sur- 
geon-General Barnes,  saying:  "Constant  and  just  com- 
plaints are  daily  received  by  me  of  the  treatment  of  Xew 
Hampshire  soldiers  in  the  Lovell  Hospital  at  Portsmouth 
Grove,  R.  I.  Cannot  they  l)e  transferred  to  Manehester, 
iS".  H.  V  I  earnestly  re([uest  that  tliis  be  done  immedi- 
ately." 

These  letters  seemed  for  a  time  to  have  their  effect, 
and  the  soldiers  were  transferred  as  desired.  Soon,  how- 
ever, there  a[»peared  to  be  a  change  in  the  councils  of  the 
War  Department,  and  the  hospital  at  Manchester  was  or- 
dered to  l)e  closed. 

Whereupon  Governor  Smyth  wi-ote  the  following:  — 


170  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Maxchestek,  X.  H.,  July  20,  1865. 
Surgeon-General  Barnes,  Washington,  D.  C.  : 

Dear  Sir  :  I  sent  you  yesterday  a  telegram  request- 
ing a  suspension  of  the  order  to  Surgeon  "Watson  to  close 
the  Wehster  Hospital  at  Manchester,  this  State,  until  I 
could  communicate  to  you  the  reasons  why  the  order 
should  be  countermanded,  which  I  now  hasten  to  do. 
The  reasons  are,  — 

1st.  There  are  now  scattered  throughout  the  country 
many  Xew  Hampshire  soldiers  in  hospitals,  who  were 
long:  since  ordered  to  be  transferred  to  the  Webster  Hos- 
pital  in  Manchester,  but  the  surgeons  of  the  hospitals  in 
which  they  are  contined  neglect  or  refuse  to  execute  the 
order.  A  special  order  some  two  weeks  ago  was  obtained 
with  reference  to  our  soldiers  in  the  hospital  at  Ports- 
mouth Grove,  R.  I.,  ordering  their  transfer,  and,  although 
I  have  repeatedly  telegraphed  the  Department  upon  the 
subject,  the  order  remains  unexecuted. 

2d.  The  AVel)ster  Hospital  has  now  sixty-eight  sick 
and  wounded  soldiers  in  its  charge,  some  ten  or  twelve  of 
whom  cannot  be  moved  without  danger  of  serious,  and 
in  some  cases  of  fatal  results  to  the  sutlering  soldiers. 
The  addition  to  these  of  those  wlio  are  entitled  to  be 
transferred  would  more  than  duplicate  this  number. 

3d.  This  hospital  is  owned  by  the  Government,  and 
is  no  expense  to  the  Government  except  what  is  required 
to  operate  it,  and  it  is  now  and  ever  has  been  conducted 
with  the  utmost  economy  and  efficiency.  It  was  built, 
fitted,  and  furnished  l)y  the  Government  at  an  expense  of 
about  §0,000,  and  has  every  convenience  and  facility  for 
all  the  purposes  of  a  hospital, 

4th.  It  has  now  on  hantl  a  large  amount  of  supi»lies 
of  all  kinds,  sufficient  in  numy  particulars  for  its  o})era- 
tion  as  long  as  a  hosjtital  will  probably  ]>e  needed  in  our 
State. 

5th.     The   hosjiital   at   Concord  is  merely  a  depot  hos- 


WEBSTER    HOSPITAL.  171 

pital,  and  has  none  of  the  conveniences,  facilities,  and 
accommodations  for  the  sick  and  suffering  soldiers  which 
are  possessed  by  the  Webster  Hospital ;  neither  has  it  the 
capacity  for  the  demands  that  must  be  made  upon  it  if 
the  order  is  carried  into  execution.- 

Therefore  economy  on  the  part  of  the  Government, 
justice  and  humanity  to  the  unfortunate  and  suffering 
defenders  of  the  country,  alike  unite  in  protestation 
against  the  execution  of  this  order,  which  I  am  sure  could 
never  have  been  issued  if  all  the  facts  and  considerations 
of  the  case  had  been  weighed  and  considered. 

An  increased  expense  to  the  Government  will  unavoid- 
ably be  incurred  by  the  proposed  change,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  abandonment  of  the  property  of  the  Government 
at  Manchester,  which  is  adapted  to  no  other  use  or  pur- 
pose. It  will  also  involve  a  sacrifice  of  all  the  comforts 
and  conveniences  of  the  Webster  Hospital,  which  are  not 
possessed  at  the  barracks  at  Concord.  Increased  suffer- 
ing and  death,  in  my  judgment,  must  inevitably  follow 
the  proposed  change. 

In  behalf  of  our  sick  and  suffering  heroes,  who  look  to 
me,  as  the  Executive  of  the  State,  to  watch  over  and  care 
for  them  in  their  misfortune,  to  alleviate  their  sufferings 
as  far  as  lies  in  human  power,  and  to  secure  to  them  all  the 
comforts  and  consolations  of  which  their  unhappy  cir- 
cumstances admit,  E  most  earnestly  }»rotest  against  the 
contemplated  change,  so  long  as  hos[)ital  facilities  are 
required  in  this  State. 

I  l)eg  leave  to  renew  my  previous  applii-ation  for  the 
transfer  of  Xew  Hampshire  soldiers  in  liospitals  in  otlier 
States  to  our  own.     Please  answer  by  telegraph. 

I  have  the  honor  to  remain, 

Very  respectfully  yours,  etc., 

FREDERICK  SALYTII, 

Gorernor  of  Xtw  llampsh'rrc. 

This  re([uest  was  granted. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


COLLEGE    AND    FIELD. 


Governor  Smyth  not  only  made  himself  acquainted 
with  the  tinancial  and  other  affairs  of  the  State,  hut  with 
the  interests  and  wants  of  different  sections,  wliich  he 
visited,  increasing  his  already  extensive  acquaintance 
among  leading  men.  He  had  appointed  on  his  personal 
staff  Colonel  H.  B.  Titus,  of  Chesterfield,  as  chief  ;  Daniel 
A.  ^Vard,  of  Concord,  John  E.  Bickford,  of  Dover,  Ken- 
dall F.  AVoreester,  of  Xashua,  Charles  G.  Pickering,  of 
Portsmouth,  and  Alhert  G.  Stevens,  of  Wentworth, 
aids-de-camp,  all  with  the  rank  of  colonel. 

At  the  Commencement  of  Dartmouth  College  this  year 
Governor  Smyth  was  called  on  to  speak  in  the  presence 
of  Chief  Justice  Chase,  Dr.  Massie,  of  London,  and  other 
distinguished  gentlemen.  He  was  very  kindly  received, 
and  spoke  in  suhstance  as  follows  :  — 

Mr.  President  and    Gentlemen: 

It  is  with  great  diffidence  that  I  rise  to  address  you 
upon  this  occasion.  As  you  are  aware,  I  have  never 
enjoyed  the  advantages  of  a  collegiate  education,  and  in 
the  presence  of  so  many  learned  gentlemen  I  feel  that  I 
ought  to  he  silent;  hut  you  have  welcomed  me  so  cor- 
dially that  I  cannot  refrain  from  addressing  to  you  a  few 
hrict  remarks.  In  calling  upon  me,  your  chairman  re- 
marked that  1  am  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Army  and 
Xavy  of  Xew  Hampshire.  This  is  true,  hut,  after  all, 
I  find  myself,  like  a  Washington  general,  "without  a 
command.""  Since  my  inauguration  I  have  heen  looking 
far  and  near  foi-  my  army  and  navy,  l)ut  I  have  not  yet 
foutid   them.      I   can  assure  you,  however,  that  I  have 


DARTMOUTH    COLLEGE    COMMENCEMENT.  173 

strong  hopes  of  finding  the  former  before  the  close  of  the 
coming  autumn. 

From  cliiklhood  I  have  entertained  tlie  greatest  ven- 
eration for  Dartmouth  College.  I  was  told  that  you 
made  great  men  here,  such  as  Webster,  Choate,  Wood- 
bury, and  others  of  that  class.  So,  in  the  exercise  of  that 
curiosity  which  is  so  characteristic  of  Yankee  boys,  I 
once  traveled  on  foot  from  a  distant  town  to  Hanover. 
After  looking  over  the  college  edifices,  some  one  gave 
me  permission  to  sleep  over  night  on  the  floor  of  one  of 
your  public  buildings.  [  Applause.]  I  considered  that 
privilege  one  of  the  greatest  honors  of  my  life.  [  Great 
applause.]  I  am  well  aware  of  the  high  standing  which 
Dartmouth  College  occupies  among  the  educational  insti- 
tutions of  this  country,  but  I  wish  in  kindness  to  make 
one  suggestion,  which  is  that  you  establisli  a  horticultural 
garden  for  the  use  of  the  students  of  this  college.  You 
have  plenty  of  land  for  the  purpose,  and  the  expense 
would  be  very  trifling.  The  young  men  who  come  hither 
need  physical  exercise,  and  let  them  have  an  opportunity 
in  such  a  garden  as  I  propose.  The  great  advantages  of 
limited  lalx)r  in  that  direction,  combined  with  the  refin- 
ing influences  of  floral  vegetation,  would,  I  am  confident, 
well  repay  the  slight  outlay  that  would  Ijc  re<|uired  for  the 
object  proposed. 

In  conclusion,  gentlemen,  I  congratulate  you  most 
sincerely  upon  the  bright  })rospects  now  opening  before 
this  college,  and  in  any  lawful  enter})risc  that  you  may 
attempt  to  carry  forward,  tending  to  its  prosperity,  you 
may  rest  assured  of  my  cordial  sympathy  and  co-opera- 
tion. [  Applause.]  I  thank  you  for  tlic  very  kind  atten- 
tion you  have  given  to  my  imperfect  remarks. 

As  Governor  Smyth  resumed  his  seat,  he  was  again 
greeted  with  the  most  gratifying  applause. 

The    governor   had  lone;  ]>een  treasurer    of  the   Xew 


174  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Hampshire  Agricultural  Society,  and  he  was  also  one 
of  the  vice-presidents  of  the  Xew  England  Agricultural 
Society,  the  annual  fair  of  which,  in  1865,  was  holden  at 
Concord,  from  the  5th  to  the  8th  of  September  inclusive. 
Governor  Smyth  delivered  the  address.  Governor  An- 
drew, of  Massachusetts,  Governor  Cony,  of  Maine, 
Governor  Buckingham,  of  Connecticut,  with  some  mem- 
bers of  their  respective  staffs,  Sergeant-at-arms  Morrisey, 
Messrs.  Boynton,  Poor,  Flint,  and  Ilitehcock,  of  Gover- 
nor Andrew's  Council,  Secretary  of  State  Warren,  and 
other  invited  guests,  were  present.  A  large  concourse  of 
people  assembled  to  witness  the  proceedings  and  hear  the 
addresses.  The  following  letter  of  invitation  was  one  of 
those  sent  to  the  different  iS^ew  England  governors  :  — 

Co>"Coi{i>,  August  21,  1865. 

His  Excellency  Joiix  A.  Andrew,  Governor  of  Mas- 
sachusetts : 

My  Dear  Sir :  The  second  annual  fair  of  the  New 
England  Agricultural  Society  will  be  held  in  this  city, 
commencing  on  the  5th  and  closing  on  the  8th  of  Sep- 
tember next. 

I  shall  be  most  happy  to  number  yourself  and  suite 
among  my  guests  upon  that  occasion,  when  I  hope  to 
meet  all  the  governors  of  the  Xew  England  States.  The 
return  of  peace  to  our  land  brings  with  it  a  more  active 
resumption  of  those  industrial  arts  and  pursuits  which 
nmst  ever  be  the  great  source  of  our  prosperity,  and  it 
seems  peculiarly  a[)propriate  that  this  auspicious  occasion 
should  receive  all  possil)le  encouragement  from  all  who 
are  esjtecially  charged  with  the  pron)otion  of  the  public 
welfare.  I  trust  this  opportunity  to  stimulate  the  public 
interest  in  tliis  direction  will  not  pass  unimproved. 

Should  you  not  ])e  able  to  attend  during  the  entire 
exhibition,  1  would  suggest  that  it  is  highly  desirable 
that  some  one  day  may  be  designated  when  all  may  be 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE    AGRICULTURAL    SOCIETY.  175 

present,  and  I  presume  that  Friday,  the  last  day,  will  be 
as  convenient  and  agreeable  for  this  purpose  as  any. 

Hoping  that  you  will  find  it  both  agreeable  and  con- 
venient to  favor  us  with  your  j)resence,  I  have  the  honor 
to  remain. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

FREDERICK  SMYTH, 

Governor. 

Dr.  George  B.  Loring,  })resident  of  the  Societ}',  said  :  — 
"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen :  It  is  one  part  of  the  duty 
of  the  Xew  England  Agricultural  Society  to  create  a  fra- 
ternal feeling  among  the  different  Xew  England  States, 
and  in  order  to  create  that  feeling  it  is  our  part  to  bring 
together  not  only  the  people  but  their  civil  officers.  I  am 
happy  to  announce  to  you  that  Governor  Buckingham,  of 
Connecticut,  Governor  Cony,  of  Maine,  Governor  An- 
drew, of  Massachusetts,  Governor  Smyth  of  ]^ew  Hamp- 
shire, are  with  us  to-day,  and  to  announce  also  that  in 
conformity  with  the  custom  of  the  Society  his  excellency 
Governor  Smyth  of  Xew  Hampshire  will  deliver  the  ad- 
dress on  this  occasion.  I  have  the  honor  to  introduce  to 
jou  his  excellency  Governor  Smyth.  " 
Governor  Smyth  said  :  — 

Gentlemen  of  the  Societv  : 

It  becomes  my  pleasing  duty  as  chief  magistrate  of  the 
State  in  which  your  annual  exhibition  is  held,  to  address 
you  upon  the  important  occasion  which  has  called  you  to- 
gether. I  do  this  in  obedience  to  your  a})propriate  regu- 
lations, feeling  that  it  is  one  of  the  highest  practical  du- 
ties of  civil  life  to  encourage  and  dcvelo})  every  efibrt 
made  for  the  improvement  of  agriculture.  I  cannot 
claim  to  teach  you  as  a  practical  farmer ;  but  I  can  claim 
to  have  made  a  constant  endeavor,  in  my  humble  way,  to 


176  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

keep  alive  agricultural  enterprise  and  to  stimulate  agri- 
cultural investigation. 

It  has  always  been  my  firm  conviction  that  the  safety 
of  the  State  and  the  prosperity  of  the  people  re(|uire  as  a 
foundation  an  intelligent  knowledge  of  agriculture ;  and 
while  I  have  been  obliged  to  admire  the  practical  opera- 
tions of  others  and  to  search  in  fields  not  my  own  for  the 
results  of  well  managed  experiments,  I  have  learned  to 
respect  the  great  art  which  feeds  and  clothes  us  and 
secures  for  us  all  the  comfort  and  beaut}'  of  adorned 
and  civilized  life  upon  a  subdued  and  cultivated  earth. 

It  is  with  great  pleasure  and  satisfaction,  therefore, 
that  I  contemplate  the  existence  of  this  Association, 
theobject  of  which  is  to  compare  ideas,  to  acquire  and 
impart  knowledge,  to  learn,  if  possible,  some  shorter 
and  easier  way  to  success  than  by  experience  alone.  We 
wish  to  get  an  average  of  the  common  progress  made 
throughout  the  Xew  England  States  since  agricultural 
science  began  to  be  thought  a  subject  worthy  of  serious 
attention,  and  tliis  we  shall  receive,  each  from  his  neigh- 
bor. There  are  many  men  who  do  not  have  faith  in  this 
manner  of  gettino;  knowledge,  men  scattered  aljout  in 
the  odd  nooks  and  on  the  mountain  farms  of  these  States, 
who  resist,  or  are  indifferent  to  the  progress  of  the  age, 
who  deem  any  acquisition  of  the  kind  purchased  at  too 
deal-  a  rate,  and  so  never  look  out  upon  the  world  to  see 
what  is  going  on.  There  are  mechanics  and  artisans 
who  do  not  yet  use,  as  they  might,  the  most  improved  im- 
jilements.  \'erv  likely  they  would  laugh  at  the  soldier 
who  should  be  content  with  an  old  smooth-bore,  when 
he  niiglit  as  well  hav'e  that  which  would  make  him  equal 
to  a  dozen  soldiers  armed  in  the  old  way;  but  they  dis- 
]ilay  a  short-sightedness  of  the  same  nature. 

A  judicious  investment  in  improved  implements  would 
always  pay  good  interest  to  the  farmer;  but  want  of  in- 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  177 

formation,  the  reluctance  to  take  time,  and  often  indiffer- 
ence, prevent  him  from  investigating  the  matter.  We 
wish  here  to  overcome  this  indifference,  and  to  waken  pub- 
he  attention  to  the  true  course.  Every  man  should  do 
what  he  has  to  do  in  the  best  possible  manner.  It  is  his 
duty  as  well  as  his  interest  to  use  the  very  best  means, 
and  so  secure  to  himself  a  deserved  reward  for  his  labor. 

But  when  I  see  an  old  man,  honest,  high-minded,  and 
patriotic  though  he  may  be  ;  when  I  observe  his  hard  hand, 
his  bowed  form,  his  features  wrinkled  and  rough  with 
summer's  suns  and  winter's  cold  ;  when  I  remember  that 
he  has  spent  the  best  years  of  his  life  in  a  hand-to-hand 
contest  with  the  soil,  the  stumps,  and  the  rocks,  out  of 
Avhich  he  has  wrung  a  bare  living  for  liimself  and  family, 
I  think  if  that  man  had  procured  the  knowledge  which 
the  best  and  foremost  of  you  possess,  if  he  had  known 
what  to  use  out  of  the  numerous  inventions  offered  to  his 
hand,  if  he  had  used  not  only  his  own  wit  and  invention  but 
had  known  clearly  how  to  appropriate  that  of  others,  he 
might  have  acliieved  better  results  and  had  more  time  re- 
maining for  reading,  or  studj^,  or  needed  relaxation.  But 
sucli  knowledge  ought  to  be  accessible  to  him  and  to  every 
one.  It  is  what  we  seek  to  gain  here,  and  what  we  shall 
gain  if  the  objects  of  this  Society  are  well  understood 
aiul  rightly  carried  out.  It  was,  therefore,  a  happy 
thought  which  first  led  the  president  of  your  Society  to 
call  upon  the  intelligent  agriculturists  of  Xew  England  to 
join  in  a  common  enterprise  for  mutual  l)enefit. 

In  his  report  upon  the  subject  to  the  Massachusetts 
State  Board  of  Agriculture,  he  said  with  truth  :  "  In  no 
section  of  our  c(Hintry  is  there  such  an  opportunity  pre- 
sented for  investigation  of  this  art  as  in  Xew  England, 
with  its  various  soils,  and  climates,  and  markets.  There 
is  in  Xew  York  a  similarity  of  agricultural  enter[)rise, 
guided  and  sliajied  no  doubt   by  the  leading  agricultural 


178  LIFE   OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

minds  of  that  State.  In  Ohio  there  is  a  prevailing  pur- 
pose throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  her  fertile  val- 
leys and  plains.  In  Pennsylvania,  and  Illinois,  and  Ken- 
tucky, there  is  for  each  a  certain  identity  of  agricultural 
interest  confined  within  the  boundaries  of  these  States; 
and  each  one  of  them  presents  an  area  so  large  as  to  re- 
quire a  separate  agricultural  society  for  itself.  iN'ew  Eng- 
land, with  an  extent  of  territory  not  much  larger  than 
any  one  of  these  States  referred  to,  has  a  great  variety  of 
agricultural  operations,  governed  b}'  the  wants  and  skill 
of  the  various  States  and  sections.  Maine  has  her  fami- 
lies of  cattle  and  horses,  naturalized  l)y  many  generations 
upon  her  pastures  and  under  her  skies.  Xew  Hampshire 
presents  her  breed  also  with  their  characteristics.  Ver- 
?nont  stands  unrivaled  with  her  horses  and  sheep.  Mas- 
sacluisetts,  with  her  diversity  of  soils,  has  her  varieties  in 
equal  proportion.  Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut  have 
their  types  of  valuable  animals  introduced  with  skill  and 
breed  until  they  are,  as  it  were,  indigenous.  So,  too,  of 
the  crops  of  these  States.  From  the  remotest  parts  of 
Maine,  and  New  Hampshire,  and  Vermont,  to  the  south- 
ern borders  of  Ilhode  Island  and  Connecticut,  may  be 
found  almost  every  variety  of  vegetable  growth  which 
is  profital>ly  raised  in  northern  latitudes :  oats  in  the  cold 
regions,  corn  on  the  warm  plains,  grass  on  the  heav}"  bot- 
toms, tobacco  in  the  warm  valle3's,  fruits  of  every  de- 
scription,—  grapes  upon  the  ledges,  cranberries  in  the 
swamps,  a})ples  upon  the  hills,  and  pears  in  the  warm, 
ricli,  and  sheltered  gardens,  —  all  find  within  the  limits 
of  Xew  England  appropriate  and  congenial  spots.  " 

Those  who  have  witnessed  the  two  exhi])itions  of  this 
Society  must  have  l)een  iin))ressed  with  the  truth  of  these 
.statements.  Not  only  has  the  great  variety  of  New  Eng- 
land poi>ulati()n  been  brought  together,  but  the  numifold 
oV)ji-i-ts  of  agri<.'ulture  to  which  our  }teople  devote  them- 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  179 

selves  have  been  well  represented.  No  one  branch  of 
farming  stood  foremost;  no  one  kind  of  crop  seemed 
to  outweigh  all  other  crops ;  no  man  could  say,  after 
witnessing  these  exhibitions,  that  New  England  excelled 
in  corn  alone,  or  in  wheat  alone,  or  in  horses  alone,  or  in 
sheep  and  cattle  and  in  nothing  else.  But  he  will  rather 
be  surprised  that  when  all  her  fruits  and  flocks  and 
herds  are  brought  together,  she  is  found  to  excel  in  all. 
So  that,  in  a  somewhat  adverse  climate,  New  England 
has  a  right  to  be  proud  of  her  corn  crop,  averaging  thirty- 
one  and  a  half  bushels  to  the  acre;  she  has  a  right  to  be 
proud  of  her  grass  crop,  that  sheet  anchor  of  every 
farmer;  she  can  point  with  satisfaction  to  her  tobacco 
crop,  growing  in  high  northern  latitudes  with  the  luxuri- 
ance of  southern  slopes;  she  can  show  the  greatest  vari- 
ety and  the  finest  quality  of  fruits  produced  in  any  part 
of  the  world ;  she  cati  draw  around  her  herds  of  cattle 
those  who  seek  for  the  best  blood  with  which  to  develop 
and  improve  this  branch  of  husbandry  in  remote  parts  of 
our  Union ;  she  pours  a  stream  of  her  improved  Merino 
blood  into  the  flocks  of  the  West,  and  the  profits  of  sheep 
husbandry  are  enhanced  at  once;  she  defies  the  world 
with  her  horses;  she  attracts  all  men  by  her  agricultural 
machinery ;  she  takes  the  lead  in  experiments  in  every 
branch  of  agriculture  ;  and  when  the  products  of  New 
England  agricultural  labor  are  gathered  together,  it  is 
found  that  not  on  one  point  alone  has  New  England 
energy  spent  itself,  but  that  a  long  array  of  enterprises 
presents  itself,  in  which  each  individual  has  marks  of 
striking  excellence.  It  is  indeed  late  in  the  day  for  any 
one  to  object  to  societies  like  this.  ()n  every  side  their 
influence  is  manifested.  In  general  and  in  particular  we 
have  better  horses  and  cattle,  more  ]troductive  fields  and 
farms,  more  eftective  tools  to  work  with,  and  we  under- 
stand   better  the  relations  of    products  to  soils  and   of 


180  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

labor  to  returns.  These  things  have  been  accomplished 
for  us.  It  is  also  to  associations  of  this  and  similar 
kinds,  as  well  as  to  the  agricultural  press,  that  we  owe  so 
much  of  the  united  spirit  and  purpose  of  the  six  New 
England  States.  Few  in  numbers,  limited  in  territory, 
it  is  by  unanimity  of  eftbrt  and  persistency  of  purpose 
that  we  have  maintained  our  influence  on  the  industry, 
arts,  civilization,  and  progress  of  the  country.  Xew  Eng- 
land bone  and  muscle  is  potent  in  the  forest  and  on  the 
prairie.  Xew  England  mind  works  in  the  inventions  that 
enable  the  AVestern  emigrant  to  attack  and  subdue  the 
roughness  of  unreclaimed  wilds.  We  do,  indeed,  see  this 
influence  as  it  crops  out,  singly  here  and  there,  all  over 
the  country ;  but  how  much  more  powerful  and  effect- 
ive is  the  union  for  the  attainment  of  the  common  good, 
which  is,  in  fact,  the  very  principle  of  our  national  exist- 
ence. 

It  is  mainly  in  those  countries  where  agriculture  is  diffi- 
cult and  needs  care  to  make  it  successful  that  the  most 
improved  methods  are  in  use.  The  very  effort  required 
to  gain  a  living  is  an  incentive  to  thought  and  invention. 
The  rocks  that  oppose  our  communication  with  the  soil, 
stumps  that  our  fathers  left  because  they  could  not  get 
time  to  do  everything,  the  marshes  and  swamps  that  must 
be  drained,  the  lulls  that  will  some  time  be  terraced,  the 
barren  pastures  that  need  new  life  infused  into  them,  are 
all  so  many  incentives  to  effort  and  thought.  They  can 
be  overcome  much  better  and  easier  with  brains  than  by 
hard  labor  alone ;  in  fact,  a  man  cannot  truly  be  said  to 
labor  who  does  not  work  with  head  and  hand  both.  ]Sow, 
whatever  advantages  those  favored  portions  of  tlie  land 
possess  where  it  is  said  theiand  needs  only  to  be  "  tickled 
with  a  hoe  to  laugh  with  a  harvest "  (and  I  would  by  no 
means  deny  them),  they  are  very  apt  to  become  inhabited 
at  last  by  a  class  of  men  who  have  not  the  patient,  plod- 


AGRICULTURAL  ADDRESS.  181 

ding  industry,  the  unconquerable  Yankee  grit,  which 
grapples  with  the  hard  fields  of  New  England.  There 
is  mucli  in  having  a  world  to  conquer ;  no  true  greatness, 
no  splendid  achievement,  no  great  deed  of  the  world's 
histor}^  has  been  accomplished  without  work.  The  men 
of  New  England  are  built  up  out  of  their  soil,  strong, 
compact,  solid,  like  the  granite  hills  —  they  have  their 
basis  in  the  earth,  but  point  towards  heaven. 

I  know  it  is  customary  to  represent  the  farming  of  Xew 
England  as  far  inferior  to  that  of  man}-  other  sections  of 
our  country.  I  have  no  doubt  this  is  in  many  respects  true. 
We  may  not  vie  with  the  broad,  fertile  lands  of  the  West 
in  the  production  of  grain,  or  beef,  or  wool.  We  have 
no  such  opportunity  afforded  us  in  our  narrow  valleys 
or  along  our  abrupt  hillsides  as  falls  to  the  lot  of  the 
dweller  on  the  inexhaustible  soils  of  the  South  and  West. 
We  are  obliged  to  abandon  many  a  rough  and  rugged  spot 
to  its  natural  wildness  where  all  the  arts  of  husbandry  fail. 
There  are  many  spots  among  us  which  have  been  saved 
from  depopulation  bv  the  development  of  mechanical  in- 
dustry. And  yet  it  will  be  found  that  wherever  the  avail- 
able soil  of  Xew  England  has  been  sul)jected  to  the  hand 
of  man,  it  has  not  failed  to  make  a  kind  response.  New 
England  may  be  said  to  be  the  Paradise  of  snuill  farmers. 
It  is  to-day  rewarding  the  application  of  industry  to  small 
tracts  of  land  as  well  as  any  section  of  higher  preten- 
sions in  the  business  of  agriculture.  If  we  will  examine 
the  statistics  of  New  England  agriculture,  we  shall  be 
surprised  to  find  how  high  the  average  of  her  produc- 
tions per  acre  ranges  when  compared  with  that  of  other 
regions. 

The  following  statistics,  showing  the  average  yield  per 
acre,  and  the  average  prices  of  some  of  the  leading  crops 
of  1864,  for  the  New  England  States,  compared  with 
those  of  the  other  seventeen  loyal  States,  embracing  New 


182 


LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 


York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  Delaware, 
Kentucky,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri, 
Wisconsin,  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Kansas,  West  Virginia,  and 
Nebraska  Territory,  are  taken  from  the  monthly  report 
of  the  National  Agricultural  Department  for  January, 
1865. 


Product. 


Location. 


Av.  per  acre. 


Price. 


Wheat    . 
Eye        . 

Barley    . 

Oats .      . 

Corn 

Buckwheat 

Potatoes 

Hay  .      . 

Beans 


New  England   . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England   . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England    . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England    . 
Sevent^jen  other  States 
New  England   . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England   . 
Sixteen  other  States    . 
New  P^ngland    . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England   . 
Seventeen  other  States 
New  England    . 
Seventeen  other  States 


•^ir 


28j4 
171 

1  1 

ItV 


§2.52| 

1.97H 
1.33^ 
1.66| 
1.52ff 
.97i 
.77^ 
2.01| 

1-1"tV 
1.244 

1.20| 

79  2 
l.lOf 

24.59 

18.48^ 
2.8lli 
2.3lX 


Tliis  result  ir<  owing  to  the  care  bestowed  here  l)y  each 
landholder  on  his  small  strip  of  land.  As  a  general  rule, 
small  farms  are  more  pr()tital)le  among  us  in  proportion 
to  the  ea]»ital  invested,  and  the  [troja'ietor  of  such  a  farm, 
if  it  is  properly  treated,  need  never  despair  of  having  an 
ample  rewai'(l  for  his  toil.  The  mode  of  farming  neces- 
sarily adopted  here  is  not  attended  with  large  returns, 
and  admits  of  little  of  the  spirit  of  speculation.  But  it 
tends  to  develo}>  haliits  of  industry,  frugality,  and  jiru- 
deiu-e,  wliich  may  never  l)e  despised,     Xew  England  may 


AGRICULTURAL   ADDRESS.  183 

not  supply  herself  with  all  the  necessaries  of  life  from  her 
own  soil ;  she  may  import  her  luxuries  from  every  cli- 
mate ;  but  she  sends  the  work  of  her  mechanical  indus- 
try there  in  exchange. 

We  may  justly  claim  to  hav'e  contributed  something  to 
the  agriculture  of  the  country,  and  that,  too,  at  a  com- 
paratively early  day,  in  the  improvement  of  agricultural 
mechanics,  the  simple  implements  in  common  use  upon 
the  farm,  in  the  early  history  of  our  material  develop- 
ment. The  traveler  in  many  parts  of  P^urope  will,  even 
now,  find  the  rude  implements  of  agriculture  essentially 
the  same  as  those  used  numy  centuries  ago  by  the  tillers 
of  the  soil  held  subject  to  im})erial  Rome.  It  was  my 
fortune,  some  three  years  ago,  to  pass  through  the  classic 
land  of  Italy ;  and,  though  not  on  an  agricultural  mis- 
sion, it  was  not  jtossible  to  overlook  the  rude  processes 
everywhere  applied  to  the  tillage  of  the  soil.  An  old 
wooden  plow  stood  in  a  vineyard,  just  under  the  nuignifi- 
cent  remains  of  a  wall,  known  to  be  more  than  four  thou- 
sand years  old,  near  the  summit  of  that  beautiful  Fiesole 
which  overlooks  the  vale  of  the  Arno.  We  handled 
and  examined  it  carefully,  nor  could  we  help  making  a 
comparison  of  its  rudeness  with  our  own  old  wooden 
plows  of  less  than  half  a  ceutnry  ago.  Xor  was  this  all; 
evidences  of  eijual  rudeness  struck  the  eye  on  every  liand. 
Stone  threshing-floors,  directly  iu  tlie  yard  of  the  home- 
stead, sc()0]ic(l  out  ill  an  (ival  shape,  served  to  catch  the 
grain  that  fell  under  the  slow  and  stately  tread  of  oxen; 
hand  labor  applied  where  we  always  use  machineiy,  and 
other  striking  indications  of  a  rude,  plodding,  uninven- 
tive  jieasantrv,  met  the  astonished  ga/.e.  There  \\"as  a 
time  when  the  [)rocesses  of  farm  labor,  not  only  in  New 
England  but  all  over  the  country,  were  almost  analogous 
in  point  of  rudeness  with  those  now  existing  in  many 
],»arts  of    Europe.     Why  has  so   important   a   re\"olution 


184  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

taken  place  in  this  country,  while  farming  in  Italy  has 
remained  stationary  ?  Is  it  not  that  we  earlier  brought 
mind  and  thought  and  mechanical  ingenuity  to  bear  up- 
on the  labors  of  the  hand,  and  thereby  shortened  labor 
and  economized  time  ? 

The  best  hay  and  manure  forks  exhibited  at  the  Royal 
Agricultural  Societ}'  of  England,  in  1862,  we  found  were 
manufactured  in  Vermont.  This  the  exhibitor  admitted, 
and  a  British  maimfacturer  acknowledged  that  England 
had  never  been  able  to  produce  their  equal  in  lightness 
and  elasticity.  It  is  a  source  of  pride  to  a  Xew  England 
traveler  in  Europe  to  find,  not  only  on  tlie  continent,  but 
in  England,  improved  agricultural  implements  manufac- 
tured in  our  own  Xcw  England.  ^Ye  liave  sent  forth  a 
hardy  and  enterprising  race  of  men,  who  have  developed 
the  resources  ot  their  new  homes,  and  have  applied  those 
virtues  which  they  cultivated  while  they  studied  the  art 
of  agriculture  on  their  own  hard  soil. 

Grant,  for  the  sake  of  argument,  that  the  people  of 
Kew  England  fail  in  their  farming  at  home, — they  do 
not  fail  in  their  farming  abroad.  They  have  opened  the 
pathway  to  the  West,  and  carried  the  energy  and  charac- 
ter of  their  native  hills  into  the  work  of  peopling  those 
new  lands.  Tlioy  have  }>lanted  institutions  of  learning 
and  rt'ligion  all  along  our  western  rivers,  and  carried  their 
own  names  and  the  names  of  their  birthplace  into  every 
county  and  town.  They  have  learned  what  it  is  to  apply 
all  surrounding  powers  to  the  best  purpose,  and  are  at- 
tended with  that  good  fortune  Avhich  is  the  legitimate  in- 
heritance of  frugality  and  honesty.  Xew  England  farm- 
ing has  succeeded,  at  home,  in  a}>plying  the  best  jtrinci- 
ples  of  agriculture,  and  in  sujijtorting  a  well-educated, 
intelligent,  and  moral  population.  It  has  also  succeeded 
abroad  in  bringing  beneath  tlie  control  of  well-directed 
industry  lands  whose  bounties  are  bestowed  upon  the  cul- 
tivator an  hundred-fold. 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  185 

The  New  England  farmer  who  goes  forth  to  a  larger 
field  of  lahor  carries  with  him  much  of  which  he  has  reason 
to  be  proud.  He  has  receiv^ed  the  tone  of  his  life  from  a 
New  England  home.  He  has  been  taught  in  New  Eng- 
land schools;  he  has  drunk  at  the  fountain  of  a  New 
England  church ;  and  whatever  faults  he  may  have,  he 
has  been  taught  that  the  mind  should  always  be  open  to 
the  best  instruction  and  the  heart  to  the  largest  human- 
ity ;  and  when  he  has  commenced  his  new  career,  he  has 
but  to  turn  back  to  his  old  home  to  find  the  best  doctrine 
as  a  guide  to  his  life,  and  the  best  implement  with  which 
to  sul)due  the  land  which  has  fallen  to  his  lot. 

While  we  consider  what  the  efforts  of  New  England 
have  accomplished  for  herself  and  for  those  sections  into 
which  she  has  breathed  the  breath  of  life,  we  should  not 
forget  her  dependence,  and  the  importance  of  her  close 
and  ultimate  connection  with  the  great  producing  States 
of  our  Union.  The  vital  force  of  every  nation  is  chiefiy 
derived  from  its  agricultural  wealth,  and  from  its  rela- 
tions to  large  agricultural  districts.  It  is  the  great  pro- 
ductive lands  of  Russia  which  ])ind  her  with  hempen 
cords  to  the  commercial  and  manufacturing  powers  of  the 
world,  and  make  her  strong  and  iniluential.  It  is  the  lux- 
uriant growth  of  eastern  mountains  and  ^-alleys  which 
pours  wealth  and  strength  into  the  lap  of  England,  and 
makes  her,  confined  as  she  is  to  tlie  narrow  limits  of  a 
small  island,  the  great  exchange  of  the  world,  and  the 
controlling  and  guiding  poA\er  among  nations.  It  is  the 
agricultural  wealth  of  France  which  enables  her  to  endure 
the  most  devastating  wars,  which  gave  her  strength  to 
struggle  through  the  grinding  o})pression  and  impover- 
ishing taxation  of  the  closing  years  of  the  Bourl)on  dy- 
nasty, and  has  given  her  })erennial  youth  through  all  her 
trials.  It  is  the  "  boundless  continent  *'  which  snakes  the 
cluster  of  our  States  vigorous  and  alile  to  increase  in 
prosperity,  in  peace,  and  in  war. 


186  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

This  small  tract  of  territory,  called  New  England, 
fringed  with  an  endless  variety  of  bays  and  harbors, 
w^ould  seem  to  be  the  home  of  a  people  devoted  to  com- 
merce. Intersected  as  she  is  by  rapid  streams  bursting 
from  her  hillsides  and  rushing  through  her  valleys,  her 
career  would  appear  to  be  by  nature  almost  wholly  man- 
ufacturing. The  genius  of  her  people  fits  her  more  es- 
pecially for  these  two  great  pursuits.  Whatever  there  is 
of  useful  invention  may  be  found  within  her  borders. 
Every  power,  every  angle  and  curve,  the  wheel,  the  pul- 
ley, and  the  lever,  all  eccentric  motions,  are  secured  by  her 
people,  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  with  great  rapidity 
her  mechanical  and  manufacturing  operations.  Her  pop- 
ulation gather  up  and  build  into  manufacturing  villages, 
and  the  accumulation  of  wealth  in  her  inland  towns  is 
astonishing  —  all  drawn  from  the  ingenious  contrivances 
of  her  mechanics  and  artisans.  Manufactures  and  com- 
merce are  her  business;  and  while  she  applies  herself 
to  the  best  methods  of  farming,  and  develops  the  art  of 
agriculture  in  the  extraordinary  manner  to  which  I  have 
already  referred,  it  is  evident  that  her  civil  power  grows 
out  of  that  bond  wliich  binds  her  to  the  great  producing 
sections  of  the  8outli  and  West.  Even  were  there  no 
great  civil  and  social  and  national  tie  uniting  Massachu- 
setts and  Illinois  into  one  (-onnimnity,  their  mutual  busi- 
ness relations  as  producers  and  c-onsumers  should  make 
their  union  connilete. 

The  mills  of  Xew  England  reach  forth  their  millions 
of  fingers  to  the  textile  fibers  which  the  cheap  pastures 
of  the  West  and  tlic  savannahs  of  tlie  South  ^iroduce 
for  thcni.  The  merchants  of  Xew  England  have  long 
since  learned  the  value  of  tliose  great  markets  which  are 
founded  upon  the  production  of  food  and  fiber  for  our 
manufacturing  and  trading  people.  The  restless  and 
busy  sons  of  New  England  know  where  the  broad  lands 
lie    from  which   they  can    draw  their  wealth,  when  their 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  187 

native  hills  and  valleys  fail  to  reward  their  toil.  And  all 
the  active  and  cultivated  thought  of  Xew  England, 
developed  by  her  elaborate  system  of  education,  finds 
service  enough  in  these  newly-peopled  regions,  where 
the  schoolhouse  and  the  church  are  yet  but  recent 
institutions.  The  mutual  relations,  therefore,  which 
exist  between  New  England  and  the  large  producing 
sections  of  our  country,  should  never  ]>e  forgotten.  With 
them  we  are  indeed  one  people,  strong,  prosperous,  and 
able  to  sustain  our  national  renown.  Let  us  estimate 
our  position  aright,  and,  while  we  are  conscious  of  our 
ability  to  bear  ourselves  well  through  all  trial  and  disas- 
ter, while  we  know  our  own  independence,  and  under- 
stand the  precise  character  of  our  service  in  the  great 
American  States,  let  ns  never  forget  that  our  })rosperous 
enterprise  has  received  its  great  strength  from  the  extent 
and  diversity  of  that  great  producing  territory,  over 
which  floats  the  same  flag  which  protects  ns,  and  where 
extend  the  obligations  of  the  Constitution  which  we  call 
our  own. 

But  so  far  as  the  agricultural  greatness  and  progress  of 
this  country  is  concerned,  we  are  just  upon  its  threshold. 
Behind  us  is  the  track  of  our  historic  record,  of  a  land 
half  subdued  by  man's  industry,  of  institutions  estab- 
lishcd,  schools,  churches,  homes,  and  all  the  incipient 
steps  to  greatness  taken,  while  in  the  future  stretches  out 
a  vast  })romisc  l)oyon(l  the  calculation  of  tlu'  keenest 
vision.  The  number  of  acres  in  this  broad  land,  admira- 
ble for  eultivation,  is  almost  beyond  computation.  We 
count  them  by  millions.  We  offer  them  in  farms  and 
homesteads  to  all  the  world.  Xowhere  else  is  there  such 
a  beneficent  boon  to  men  as  in  this  vast  country. 

Xow  it  is  because  this  expanse  must  some  day  be  cov- 
ered with  such  an  immense  jiopulation,  and  will  aflbrd 
sustenance  to  so  manv  families,  that  we  in  Xew  Knu'land, 


188  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

the  cradle  of  the  continent  in  great  ideas,  must  raise  up 
among  ourselves,  and  maintain,  an  influence  that  will 
guide  and  control  the  agricultural  industry  of  the  country. 
This  can  be  done  justly  in  only  one  wa}',  and  that  is  by 
learning  and  practicing  the  very  best  possible  methods  for 
ourselves.  When  your  sons  leave  the  old  fireside  for  the 
"West  or  South,  when  they  leave  the  farm  which  grows 
too  small  for  their  rising  ambition,  be  sure  that  they  add 
to  New  England  loyalty  and  integrity  a  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  their  calling ;  let  it  be  seen  that  wherever  a  man 
from  any  of  the  States  embraced  within  the  circle  of  this 
Association  shall  settle,  there  the  curse  is  banished  from 
the  land,  and  obedience  to  the  primal  order  changes  it  to 
a  blessing.  These  are  no  fanciful  dreams  of  a  theorist. 
They  are  practical,  attainable  objects  worthy  of  any  man's 
ambition,  worthy,  especially,  of  the  young  men  of  our 
country. 

We  are  about  entering  upon  a  new  system  of  effort, 
under  the  stimulus  of  the  Xational  Government,  and  it 
is  our  duty  to  do  all  in  our  power  to  make  the  experi- 
ment of  agricultural  colleges  successful,  alike  honorable 
to  ourselves  and  useful  to  tlie  country  at  large.  I  say 
to  you,  gentlemen,  representatives  of  the  agricultural 
thought,  and  skill,  and  science  of  Xew  England,  it  is  our 
duty  to  make  this  experiment  successful ;  a  duty  we  owe 
to  ourselves,  to  our  children,  and  to  the  Government  tliat 
conies  forward  so  generously  to  aid  and  foster  these  insti- 
tutions'. We  must  do  the  Ijest  we  ran  with  all  the  means 
placed  in  our  power,  and  if  we  fail  to  exert  ourselves  to 
this  end,  we  shall  be  unfaithful  to  the  trust  which  we 
have  taken  upon  ourselves  to  execute.  I  li0})e  yet  to  see 
the  day  when  every  advantage  we  i)0ssess  is  improved  to 
the  utmost,  \\hen  the  agricultural  colleges  shall  be  truly 
worthy  of  their  name,  and  turn  out  men  who  can  become 
masters  in  their  pursuit.  In  order  to  accomplish  all  or 
any  of  these  objects,  a  great  deal  must  be  done. 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  189 

K  there  is  any  one  thing  lacking  in  American  fairs,  as 
hitherto  sustained,  it  is  the  want  of  a  persistent,  vital 
energy  which  takes  hold  of  the  object  to  be  acconiplislied 
as  a  real  and  attainable  good.  The  fair  is  admirable  as  a 
holiday,  but  it  must  not  be  that  alone.  These  exhibitions 
of  horses  and  cattle,  this  display  of  the  products  of  our 
soil,  have  a  purpose  which  is  dear  to  the  hearts  of  those 
who  believe  in  the  future  prosperity  of  the  country.  Let 
me  urge  upon  you,  farmers  of  Xew  England,  the  duty  of 
seeing  that  this  jmrpose  does  not  fail  of  its  accomplisli- 
ment.  The  machinery  of  a  fair  is  thoroughly  democratic. 
The  man  who  can  exercise  an  influence  or  has  any  good 
to  communicate,  can  here  do  it  in  such  a  way  and  under 
such  auspices  as  to  have  some  ettect.  A  man"s  individual 
efforts  in  his  own  town  or  neighborhood  may  do  nmch, 
but  associated  with  others,  all  intent  on  the  same  end,  he 
can  do  vastly  more.  Xow,  if  the  Xew  England  Fair  or 
any  local  or  State  fair  is  not  such  as  it  ought  to  be,  it  is 
your  duty  to  take  hold  and  straighten  tlie  furrow  which 
it  cuts,  infuse  into  it  the  life  of  a  high  and  real  oltject, 
give  it  the  support  of  your  presence  and  sympathy,  attend 
its  preliminary  meetings  with  an  ear  open  to  learn,  or  a 
mind  to  impart  knowledge.  The  change  from  the  usual 
routine  of  farm  labor  will  make  this  a  welcome  holiday, 
but  not  that  alone ;  it  will  introduce  a  variety  into 
thought,  as  essential  for  your  welfare  as  a  rotation  of  crops 
is  to  the  land.  Xo  man  can  plod  right  along  in  one  beaten 
path  all  his  lifetime,  without  contracting  ii  certain  nar- 
rowness of  habit  and  thought. 

I  am  hap})y,  farmers  of  Xew  England,  t<^  welcome  you 
to  New  Hampshire,  and  to  sti'cngthen,  if  ])Ossible.  by  your 
reception  here,  your  regard  for  that  member  of  the  sister- 
hood of  States  over  whose  councils  I  have  the  honor  to 
preside.  I  would  do  all  in  my  power,  through  this  Asso- 
ciation   and    all   others,    to  make  Xew  Enirland   one    in 


190  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

thought  and  feeling,  as  she  really  is  one  in  interest. 
Thrice  welcome  with  returning  peace  I  Your  presence 
here  to-day  indicates  a  renewed  devotion  to  the  substan- 
tial interests  of  the  country,  and  to  those  pursuits  which 
have  gained  for  New  England  so  deserved  a  pre-eminence 
in  the  history  of  the  country.  From  these  prosperous 
homes  and  these  thriving  centers  of  labor,  her  soldiers 
went  out,  feeling  that  they  had  the  solid  support  of  wealth 
and  plenty  to  back  them  up ;  to  these  homes  they  have 
returned,  more  ready  than  ever  before  to  acknowledge  the 
truth  and  vital  importance  of  the  principle  of  free  labor. 
I  know  no  New  Eno-land  State  which  is  willing  to  resio^n 
her  share  of  the  renown  which  has  fallen  on  any  one  of 
her  sisters.  Has  Maine,  or  Vermont,  or  Massachusetts,  or 
Connecticut,  or  Rhode  Island,  achieved  any  glory,  or 
developed  any  industry,  or  revealed  any  light,  New 
Hampsliire  claims  her  share  of  the  glory,  and  New  Hamp- 
shire men  feel  that  their  brethren  have  done  the  work. 
They  rejoice  in  and  defend  their  Union  and  the  flag; 
they  are  ready  to  die  for  their  country,  but  they  love  New 
England,  this  little  group  of  States,  this  Switzerland  of 
America,  as  the  home  of  their  fathers;  and  well  they 
may.  For  now,  in  this  day  of  national  triumph,  as  we 
beat  the  victorious  sword  into  the  plowshare,  and  gather 
beneath  our  triumphant  flag,  how  radiant  does  the  spirit 
of  New  England  appear!  (iiod  be  thanked  for  our 
national  victory,  for  the  reward  which  He  has  bestowed 
upon  our  people  for  their  self-sacrifice  and  devotion. 
Not  a  victory  of  arms  alone  has  He  given  us,  but  a  tri- 
umph of  the  highest  and  best  social  and  civil  principles 
known  to  nuiii,  and  brought  by  our  fathers  to  our  own 
rocky  shores,  —  a  victory  for  freedom,  and  religion,  and 
education.  May  its  glories  never  fade,  and  may  its 
influence  never  cease,  until  all  men  in  our  own  land 
and  throughout  the  world  shall  know  and  enjoy  these 
blessings  I 


AGRICULTURAL    ADDRESS.  191 

The  governors  each  followed  in  brief  remarks.  Gov- 
ernor Andrew  twice  referred  to  Governor  Smyth,  and 
said  his  address  had  filled  him  "  with  admiration  for  the 
zeal  and  earnestness  with  which  he  has  entered  into  the 
discussion  of  such  important  principles."  In  conclusion, 
he  thanked  Governor  Smyth  for  his  eloquent  address, 
and  called  for  cheers,  first  for  his  excellency  Governor 
Smyth,  next  for  Governor  Smyth's  address,  and  finally 
for  the  State  of  New  Hampshire. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

THE    GRANITE    STATE. 

Visiting  Lowell  soon  afterwards,  Governor  Smyth  at- 
tended the  Fair  of  the  Mechanics'  Association,  and  was 
called  np  at  the  table  bv  the  following  toast :  "  The  State 
of  New  Hampshire  :  From  her  valleys  she  sends  us  the 
Merrimack,  and  from  her  hills  the  pure  air  of  freedom. 
To-day,  through  her  chief  magistrate,  she  reassures  us  of 
her  good  \\\\\  and  fraternal  Concord,  " 

Governor  Smyth,  as  reported  in  a  Lowell  paper,  eulo- 
gized Massachusetts  in  reponse.  The  people  of  Xew 
Hampshire  came  to  Lowell  for  many  articles  of  our  produc- 
tion and  manufacture,  and  that  State  rejoices  in  our  suc- 
cess. A  number  of  years  ago  he  came  to  Lowell  and 
worked  in  the  mills  of  the  Middlesex  Company  for  ten 
dollars  per  month,  getting  him  enough  money  to  purchase 
articles  of  clothing  he  was  in  need  of,  and  if  he  had 
received  larger  wages  he  might  be  a  resident  of  Lowell 
now,  although  he  had  prospered  well  in  his  adopted  State. 
The  climate  and  soil  of  Xew  England  produced  men  and 
women  possessed  of  vigor  of  mind  and  body  to  labor  as 
no  other  }»oople  on  this  continent  could  labor.  He  was 
pleased  to  see  so  many  ladies  present  at  this  exhibition, 
regarding  their  presence  as  a  good  omen  of  success. 
They  should  feel  interested  in  such  exhibitions.  They 
should  l>e  properly  educated  in  the  atfairs  of  business  life, 
and  he  didn't  believe  any  man  should  marry  a  woman 
who  would  not  be  a  helpmeet  to  him.  lie  was  much 
pleased  with  our  excellent  fair,  and  the  ]>leasant  grounds 
and  substantial  buildiniirs  owned  bv  our  airricultural  soci- 


THE   GRANITE    STATE.  193 

eties.      New  Hampshire  could  not  compete  snccesBfuUy 
Avith  us  in  this  matter  at  present. 

The  same  season  Governor  Smytli  attended  the  county 
fair  at  Milford,  and  addressed  liis  friends  the  farmers-  in 
tlie  following  words :  — 

Mr.  President,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : 

I  am  happy  to  meet  you  to-day  under  the  cheering  aus- 
pices that  now  surround  us.  The  hlack  clouds  of  war  which 
for  four  long  3'ears  hung  over  our  land,  are  hroken  and 
dispelled,  and  the  sun  of  peace  once  more  sheds  its  sweet 
and  cheering  rays  over  our  \\'ho]e  country.  From  the 
rough  pursuits  of  war  to  the  mild  and  genial  arts  of 
peaceful  industry,  our  people  turn  with  cheerful  alacrity 
and  ready  adaptation,  as  is  everywhere  seen  by  the  ab- 
sorption in  our  varied  branches  of  industry  of  the  thc»u- 
sands  of  our  noble  soldiers,  who  during  the  past  few 
months  have  returned  to  us  from  the  scenes  of  the  camp 
and  the  battle-field.  Evidences  of  tliis  fact  I  see  before 
me  to-day.  Your  exhil)ition  is  far  in  advance  of  the  one 
lield  here  two  years  ago.  Many  articles  here  upon  exhi- 
bition are  of  superior  excellence,  ami  would  do  credit  to 
any  State  fair  or  other  exliibition  of  larger  pretension. 

Among  tliese  1  will  mention  your  specimens  of  l)read, 
which  are  of  a  very  superior  (piality,  and  wliieh  1  have 
seldom  seen  exeelled.  The  article  of  butter,  too,  does 
jrreat  credit  to  the  ladies  of  this  section  of  tlie  countrx". 
Both  these  articles,  as  well  as  nuuiy  others,  show  that  the 
wives  and  daughters  of  your  agriculturists  are  trained  to. 
and  skilled  in,  the  household  arts,  which  are  as  essential  to 
the  success  and  happiness  of  our  farmers  as  their  own  in- 
dustry and  intelligence  in  the  out-door  management  of 
their  farms,  ^'et  notwithstanding  these  excellences,  and 
others  I  might  mention,  your  fair  is  not  fully  \v]\ii[  it 
ought  to  be,  and  what  you  would  Ite  glad  to  have  it.  nor 

13 


194  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

what  it  would  be  if  the  people  but  felt  the  interest  in  the 
fair  which  it  is  entitled  to  receive  and  which  its  importance 
fleserves.  Your  excellent  facilities  for  manufacturing,  the 
fertile  soil  of  this  i)roductive  portion  of  the  State,  and 
the  general  thrift  and  industry  of  your  people,  are  all 
idjundantly  ample  to  insure  an  exhil)ition  of  this  charac- 
tei"  of  marked  excellence  in  all  its  departments,  if  pub- 
lic attention  were  only  sufiiciently  awakened  to  its  impor- 
tance and  utility. 

Yet  I  regret  to  say  that  in  Xew  IIam[ishire  our  people 
are  in  this  regard  behind  many  of  our  sister  States,  and 
even  slow  Old  England,  This  should  not  and  even  need 
not  l>e,  and  let  us  hope  that  it  may  not  long  continue,  I 
know  it  is  often  said  that  Xew  Ham})shire  "  is  a  good 
State  to  emigrate  from,  "  and  perhaps  it  is  generally  be- 
lieved that  our  young  men  can  better  their  fortunes  by 
turning  their  backs  u}ion  their  mother  State  and  seeking 
■elsewhere  for  larger  returns  and  richer  rewards  for  their 
lal)orsand  enterprise.  For  one  I  do  not  share  in  this  feel- 
ing. I  believe  that  ours  is  not  only  a  good  State  to  l)e 
bc)rn  in,  l:)Ut  a  good  State  to  live  in  and  to  die  in,  and  that 
the  one  great  care  and  concern  of  the  fathers  and  mothers 
should  l>e  to  awaken  in  the  hearts  of  their  sons  and 
■daughters  a  feeling  of  attachment  and  affection  for  and ^ 
of  pride  and  interest  in  the  homes  of  their  childhood  and 
the  State  of  their  fathers.  Statistics  l)ear  me  out  in  say- 
ing tliat  Xew  Hampshire  is  a  good  agricultural  State, 
that  agricultural  lalior  and  enter}>rise  bring  here  as  sure 
and  am[ile  re\\'ards  as  in  the  average  of  the  States  of  tin- 
I'nioii  :  and  yet  bow  viistly  can  this  be  improved  I  The 
great  necessity  of  our  soil  is  fertilization,  and  yet  ferti- 
lizers ill  abniidaiiee  are  hidden  in  our  bogs  and  ravines, 
iiiitouclied  and  undisturbed  tor  generations,  "^riiere  is 
seai-cely  a  limit  to  tlie  })rogress  whieb  lies  in  our  reach  it' 
*inr  active  and  enter[irising  young  men  will  remain  with  u- 


TIIK    URANITK    STATE.  195 

iiiid  give  their  energies  to  this  pursuit.  As  I  was  just  say- 
ing, it  is  one  oftlie  highest  duties  of  }>arents  to  cultivate  in 
the  hearts  of  their  sons  attachments  for  lionie,  and  most 
effectually  can  this  ))e  done.  The  home  should  he  made 
cheerful  and  ha})py,  and  it  should  Ije  beautified  and 
adorned  with  those  little  embellishments  which,  though 
cheap  and  within  tlie  reach  of  all,  are  yet  most  powerful 
in  their  attractions  for  the  tender  years  of  childhood  and 
of  youth.  Flowers  should  blossom  by  the  walks  and 
shed  their  fragrance  in  the  beaten  phu'ground;  the  vine 
should  climb  the  lattice  by  the  door,  and  cover  the  ample 
trellis  with  its  delicious  fruitage;  the  pear  and  the  plum 
tree  should  ha\'e  their  jtlace  in  the  garden,  surrounded  by 
the  liundrcd  delicacies  which  are  seldom  found,  save  in 
the  gardens  of  the  rich.  All  these,  with  little  care  and 
little  ex})ense,  can  be  made  to  Ix'autify  every  habitation  in 
the  State,  and  not  only  to  beautify  but  add  sulistantially 
to  its  value,  and  the  enjoyment  of  the  occupants.  The 
cheerlessness  and  nakedness  of  thousands  of  homes,  now 
dreary  and  unattractive,  might,  by  means  thus  simpk'. 
cheap  and  accessible  to  all,  l)c  forever  dispelled,  and 
beauty  and  loveliness  smile  in  their  stead.  To  this  sub- 
ject let  me  invite  y()ur  especial  attention. 

In  conclusion,  let  me  urge  upon  you  all  to  unite  in  ear- 
nest efforts  to  advance  the  ])rosperity  of  our  State  and  to 
secure  for  her  the  eminence  in  her  varied  industrial  pur- 
suits which  she  is  capable  of  attaining.  AVe  have  all  the 
elements  ot"  prosperity  at  our  hands  it  we  will  but  use 
them.  That  we  shall  avail  ourselves  of  them  I  have  the 
greatest  cc^ntidence. 

Ill  ( )ctober.  (lOveriior  Smytli,  lia\ing  been  named  one 
of  the  corporators  of  the  Xatioiial  Asylum  for  Disabled 
Soldiers,  visited  Washington,  ^\■|K•^e  be  was  ap}toiiited  one 
of  a  committee  to  pi'e[»are  regulations  for  the  go\'eriiiiieiit 
of    the    institutiiMi,   and     for    other    preliminary    duties. 


196  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

General  Grant,  Admiral  Farragut,  General  Butler,  Sur- 
geon-General Barnes,  H.  J.  Raymond,  ex-Governor  Tod, 
and  Admiral  Davis,  were  his  associates  on  this  committee. 

At  this  time  he  took  occasion  to  see  the  secretary  of 
war  and  Generals  Grant  and  Meade,  and  to  urge  the  imme- 
diate discharge  of  Xew  Hampsliire  men  in  service.  The 
following  letter  is  an  acknowledgment  of  one  of  numer- 
ous testimonials  to  Governor  Smyth  of  the  appreciation 
by  the  returned  veterans  of  what  he  had  done  to  promote 
their  comfort,  and  to  secure  for  them  what  they  were 
justly  entitled  to  :  — 

Concord,  Xovemher  21,  1865. 
Capt.  Daxa  ay.  King,  Xashua,  jS".  H.  : 

Dear  Sir:  Your  note  of  the  17th  instant  to  Governor 
Smyth,  accompanied  by  a  pistol  which  you  kindly  present 
to  him,  is  received,  and  I  am  requested  to  extend  to  you 
his  sincere  acknowledgment  for  the  present,  and  to  ex- 
press his  lively  appreciation  of  the  friendly  sentiments 
which  prompted  it,  and  which  are  so  freely  and  Hattcr- 
ingly  expressed  in  your  note. 

Although  your  term  of  service  was  mostly  jtassed  in  a 
distant  part  of  tlie  country,  yet  tlie  gallantry  of  your  Itat- 
talion  in  the  hour  of  conflict,  its  hardships  and  suiierings 
in  an  uncongenial  climate,  are  nevertheless  M'ell  known  to 
and  appreciated  by  the  people  of  Xcw  Hampshire,  whose 
banner  was  never  more  proudly  borne  than  by  the  "  gal- 
lant Eighth."" 

llis  excellency  trusts  tliat  your  sword  may  never  again 
be  drawn  in  the  terrible  conflict  of  war;  but,  should 
occasion  come  when  the  honor  of  our  flag  shall  require 
that  stem  vindication,  he  doubts  not  that  yours  will  be 
among  the  flr.-t  to  be  drawn  in  its  defense,  and,  as  now, 
the  last  to  be  sheathed. 

CHAS.  H.  BARTLETT, 

Prlrate  Scrref"r>/. 


THANKSGIVING    PROCLAMATION.  197 

That  year  the  governor  issued  the  following 

THANKSGIVINC    PROCLAIMATION. 

In  accordance  with  the  custom  of  our  fathers,  the 
desire  of  all  wise  and  Christian  hearts,  and  the  spirit  of 
the  Divine  revelation,  I  do,  with  advice  of  the  council, 
herehy  appoint  Thursday,  the  thirtieth  (hiy  of  I^Tovember 
next,  to  be  observed  l)y  the  people  of  New  Hampshire  as 
a  day  of  public  thanksgiving  and  praise  to  Ahniglity  God. 

That  JFe  has  brought  us  safely  and  victoriously  to  the 
conclusion  of  a  long  and  desolating  war,  and  that  peace 
once  more  returns  to  bless  the  nation  ; 

That  lie  has  given  it  to  us,  in  this  generation,  to  firmly 
establish,  nuiintain,  and  defend  the  great  principles  of 
civil  lil)erty  and  equal  rights :  and  that  human  slavery  is 
virtually  abolished  throughout  our  land  : 

That,  while  we  mourn  our  fallen  heroes,  He  has  yet 
returned  to  us  so  many,  illustrious  for  l>raverv  and  devo- 
tion to  their  country  ; 

That,  while  enduring  the  scourge  of  war,  lie  has  yet 
preserved  us  from  pestilence  and  famine  :  and  has  re- 
strained the  nations  of  the  earth,  and  given  us  external 
peace : 

That  the  social  and  moral  welfare  of  the  State,  the 
learning  of  the  schools,  and  the  pros[»erity  of  the  churches 
have  not  diminished  : 

That  abundant  harvests  have  crowned  the  labors  of 
the  husbandman :  that  industry  has  received  its  due 
reward,  and  that  pr()S}»eritv  has  blessed  the  marts  of 
commerce  and  trade ; 

That  the  present  is  manifold  in  blessings,  and  the 
future  rich  in  lio}>e,  — 

F(n-  these  s[ieeial  causes,  and  the  innumerable  mercies 
that  surround  and  gladden  our  daily  }iaths.  let  us  abandon 
for  a  dav  our   usual    avocations,  assemble   ourselves    in 


198  .  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

houses  of  worship,  and  render  devout  and  heartfelt  thanks 
to  the  Sovereign  Ruler  of  the  universe  and  Redeemer 
of  men. 

Given  at  the  council  chaml^er,  in  Concord,  this  twenty- 
tirst  day  of  October,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  sixty-iive,  and  the  ninetieth  of  the 
Independence  of  the  Ignited  States  of  America. 

FREDEliICK   SMYTH. 

By  Ili.'^  Excollency  the  Governor,  with  the  advice  of  the  Council. 
Walter  Hakriman,  Secretary  of  State. 


CHAPTER   XV  in 


WORK    FOR    NEW    HA-AIPSJIIRE. 


In  December,  18<»5,  tlie  governor  visited  Wasliinii'toii, 
and  endeavored  to  i^et  a  clear  understandini>-  of  the  State 
aci'ounts  with  tlie  treasnrv  de[iartnient.  He  found  mat- 
ters in  a  very  eom[i]icated  condition,  mainly  from  the  lack 
(:)f  such  vouchers  as  the  department  cojisidered  necessary^ 
from  the  inexperience  of  the  accounting  ofHcers  of  the- 
State  troops,  and  also  from  the  strain  of  such  enormous 
transacti(^ns  as  came  u[)on  the  inade(|uate  clerical  tbrce  of 
the  (ilenera]  ( Jovei'ument. 

Working  u})  the  matter  with  accustomed  energy,  he 
evolved  from  the  mass  of  tangled  accounts  the  sum  ot" 
.?47,104,  due  to  Xew  Hampshire. 

The  sons  oi'  Xew  Hampshire  i-csident  in  Washington, 
took  this  occasion  to  give  the  governor  a  sereiuide.  Col. 
X.  G.  ( )rd\vay,  Sergeant-at-arms  of  the  House,  with  a 
large  party,  accompanied  by  the  Treasury  IJaiul,  jiro- 
ceeded  to  the  Xational  Hotel.  After  the  music  had 
ceased,  (lOxcrnor  Smyth  ajipeai'ed,  when  Colonel  ( )rd- 
way  addressed  liim,  saying  that  at  a  late  hour  in  the 
atternoon  the  Xew  Ilanijishire  hoys  had  learned  tluit  lie 
was  to  renuiin  in  the  i-ity  another  night,  ami  had.  in 
accordance  Avith  an  earnest  desire  on  their  part,  called 
to  pay  theii'  respects  to  his  exci'llency,  alth(Migh  the 
weatlici"  was  cold,  and  f)i'  this  region  excessively  in- 
clenieiit :  the  sons  of  the  (Granite  State  had  been  reared 
in  a  climate  which  had  jU'ejiared  them  foi'  any  eiiiei-- 
gency.  In  behalf  of  the  sons  of  Xew  Hampshire,  he 
desired   to  welcome    (lowrnor  Smyth    to    the  ca]»ital    c»f 


200  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

the  nation,  and  to  say  that  after  hearing  from  him, 
they  had  come  prepared  to  take  him  a  captive  to  an 
entertainment  which  awaited  them  all.  To  which  the 
governor  replied,  — 

"  Colonel  Ordway  and  Sons  of  Xew  Hampshire  :  It 
gives  me  great  pleasure  to  meet  so  nmny  of  you  to-night, 
and  I  am  not  surprised  at  3'our  determination  and  energy 
in  appearing  here,  or  anywhere  else,  even  on  such  a  night 
as  this.  New  Hampshire  men  always  make  their  mark 
wherever  they  go,  and  I  hope  that  you  will  not  only 
make  good  the  old  saying  that  '  Xew  Hami)shire  is  a  good 
place  to  emigrate  from,'  but  that  after  you  have  succeeded 
in  securing  a  fair  share  of  this  world's  goods,  you  will 
^^•etnrn  to  the  hills  and  valleys  that  I  know  you  love  so 
well,  there  to  live  and  die  with  your  kindred. 

'•  The  Senate  and  House,  at  the  other  end  of  the  avenue, 
have  borrowed  largely  from  intellect  wliicli  iirst  dawned 
among  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  your  native  State,  and 
I  am  proud  to  know  that  other  departments  of  the  Gov- 
ernment liave  learned  to  appreciate  the  services  of  the 
young  and  rising  men  of  Xew  Hampshire.  Your  untir- 
ing devotion  to  the  wants  of  our  wounded  soldiers  in  the 
liospitals  and  on  tlie  battle-tields.  entitles  you  to  the  lasting 
gratitude  r)f  the  wliole  V)eople  of  your  native  State. 
Vour  devotion  to  the  I'nion  cause  and  universal  liberty 
are  too  well  known  to  require  comment  from  me  at  this 
time,  and  I  will,  therefore,  only  say  that  the  sentiments 
of  the  ])eop]e  of  Xew  Hampshire  are  fixed,  and  she  will 
take  no  ste]is   backward. 

••  I  am  told  ])y  the  Sergeant-at-anns  of  the  House  of 
Representatives  that  I  am  under  arrest  and  must  go  with 
you.  and  as  his  authority  is  uncpiestioned  by  memljcrsof 
Congress,  eithei'  b_v  day  or  by  night.  T  shall  ^\"il]inu•lv 
submit.  Again  thanking  you  for  tliis  friendly  call.  I  am 
now  ready  to  ace()mpany  you."" 


VISIT    TO    WASHIX(iTOX.  201 

Tlie  band  then  struck  up  "' Vaukoe  Doodle,"  and  es- 
corted the  governor,  with  ahout  forty  Xew  Hampshire 
men,  hack  to  tlie  startin<>-]»oint  on  Four-and-a-IIalf  street, 
wliere  Colonel  Ordway  g-ave  them  an  entertainment, 
duriuii;  which  speeches  were  made  by  Hon.  Wm,  K. 
Chandler,  Governor  Smyth,  Francis  H.  Morgan,  Ksc^., 
Hon.  E.  Ashton  liollins.  Hon.  Edward  H.  Rollins,  M.  C, 
Colonel  Oi-dway,  Walcott  Handin,  Es(j.,  and  Judge  Pear- 
son, of  the  Pension  liureau.  The  hand  then  played  "  Sweet 
Home,"'  after  which  the  whole  company  escorted  the 
governor  back  to  his  (piarters,  and  separated  with  three 
cheers  for  Governor  Smyth,  and  three  for  the  Granite 
State. 

On  the  22d  of  Decendjer,  Forefathers  Day,  lie  was 
present  at  the  bancpiet  of  the  !N'ew  England  Society,  at 
Delmonico's,  in  ^ew  I'ork,  and  resjionded  to  a  senti- 
ment com}>limcntary  to  the  sons  of  Xe\\'  Hampshire,  as 
follows  :  — 

Mr.    {'resident  : 

The  seal  of  the  city  which  is  my  adopted  resi- 
dence lias  for  its  motto  the  A\'ords  "  Lal»or  omnia 
vincit,'"  ^\•hich  not  only  a}>tly  ex})resses  the  moti\'e 
]»iirpose  of  a  manufacturing  j^lacc,  where  the  cotton  of 
the  South  is  ^\•ovcu  into  cloth,  and  the  iron  ot"  Pennsyl- 
\ania  iiu)ul(led  and  forged  into  mighty  engines,  but  it  is 
siguiticaut  of  that  pervading  energy  and  that  uncouipicr- 
able  will  which  has  c\'cr  animated  the  sons  of  Xew  Eng- 
laiiiL  Xew"  Hampshire,  sir.  is  small  in  (.'Xtent.  but  her 
rocky  ribs  throb  with  that  \ital  current  which  has  given 
life  and  strength  to  so  many  communities  on  this  conti- 
nent. The  sourt-es  ot  the  ri\ers  are  in  the  mountains,  and 
there  will  be  found  the  sources  of  x'irtue  also.  The  people 
a<«'Ustomed  to  a  contest  with  the  bard  soil,  cheered  by  the 
health  of  the  ]iure  air.  will    not  soon  become   enervated. 


202  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

It  is  not  for  me  to  call  the  roll  of  the  illustrious  names  of 
her  victorious  soldiers,  living  or  dead.  She  claims  to 
have  done  no  more  than  her  dutv  in  the  great  contest  for 
the  supremacy  of  New  England  ideas,  and  history  may 
he  safely  trusted  to  tell  how  well. 

This  is  an  occasion  which  calls  for  no  exaltation  of  ojie 
State  ahove  another,  We  have  learned  on  the  hattle-Held 
to  hury  all  invidious  distinctions,  and  it  is  to  he  hoped 
that  no  resurrection  of  rehellion  ever  awaits  them.  Yet 
in  that  generous  rivalry  which  exults  in  individual  success 
only  that  it  may  add  to  the  glory  of  a  common  i-ountrv,  we 
shall  not  be  found  wanting.  As  each  separate  State  of  the 
six  whose  great  day  we  here  commemorate,  has  contrib- 
uted freely  of  all  that  she  holds  most  dear  to  enhance  the 
l»eculiar  fame  of  Xew  England,  so,  sir,  I  trust,  will  Xew 
England  ever  [trove  true  to  the  highest  good  of  the  Tnion. 
It  was  the  true  iiol)ility  of  labor  that  threw  down  the 
gage  in  the  Rebellion,  and  I  rejoice  to  see  it  elevated 
where  it  belongs  of  right,  even  though  it  had  to  l)e  raised 
on  a  million  bayonet  points.  Labor  of  the  brain  and  of 
the  hand  have  made  us  all  we  arc.  United  for  a  jtraise- 
worthy  common  }>ur[K)se,  they  are  invincildc.  Let  us  go 
forth  from  this  occasion  [trejiared  to  assert  and  defend 
that  L'nion  everywhere  and  on  all  occasions,  as  indispen- 
sable to  the  true  gloi-y  and  [»rosperity  of  the  rnion  of 
States  whi<-li  we  all  hold  dear.      [  Ajijilause.] 

Among  the  regiments  I'eturning  tVom  the  war,  it  will 
have  been  noticed  that  the  Second  was  the  last  to  finish 
its  term  of  service.  It  went  to  the  war  at  the  first  call, 
with  1,04*)  men,  rank  and  tile,  received  I'ecruits  dui-ing 
the  war,  raising  its  total  to  2,200.  and  returned  on  this 
last  month  ot"  the  year,  aftei-  twenty-four  engagements, 
inimbering  700  men.  Its  original  commander.  Col.  (iil- 
man  Marston,  ha\ing  been  made  general  of  a  division,  it 
retiu-Tied  under  connnand  of  Col.  J.  X.  Patterson. 


VISIT   TO    WASHINGTON.  203 

Of  Jill  the  speeches  made  to  tlie  returnijig  soldiers  by 
(governor  Smyth,  none  have  been  reported,  except  this, 
which  is  (pioted  from  a  Concord  }>aper. 

Governor  Smyth  said  he  was  proud  to  welcome  to  tlie 
State  and  to  their  liomes  the  otKcers  and  soldiers  of  the 
Second  Rcij^iment,  —  a  regiment  dear  in  the  recollections 
of  us  all.  The  sight  of  them  brought  to  his  mind  many 
incidents  which  he  had  witnessed  on  the  battle-field. 
They  had  fought  long  and  well.  The  prophecy  had  been 
fuliiiled  in  their  case  that  ''  the  tirst  shall  be  last."'  They 
had  served  through  the  Rebellion  faithfully  and  well,  and 
were  the  last  to  return  to  the  State.  The  sight  of  this 
regiment  inspired  us  with  emotions  never  to  be  for- 
gotten. There  were  those  who  could  not  be  welcomed 
home,  having  yielded  up  their  lives  on  the  bloody  tields 
of  war.  He  was  reminded  of  the  scenes  of  Gettys- 
burg, where  it  was  his  fortune  to  assist  in  caring 
for  the  wounded,  and  performing  the  last  sad  duties  for 
the  dead.  lie  remenil)ered  passing  a  building  which  he 
was  told  contained  none  but  rel)els,  and  on  hearing  his 
name  called,  he  entered,  there  to  tind  mend)ei"s  of  this 
regiment,  whom  he  removed  to  the  s]»ot  where  the 
wounded  of  the  regiment  were  lying:  and  he  was  liapj»y 
to  see  one  of  those  men  before  him  to-day.  There  \\as 
one  j)erson  he  did  not  see  who  ought  to  l)e  here  to-day, 
and  that  was  Miss  Harriet  Dame.  She  had  Tailored  and 
slept  on  the  battle-field,  caring  for  the  \\()unde<l  and  the 
sick,  the  dying  and  the  dead.  They  all  knew  her  deeds 
of  kindness.  She  was  a  noble  woman,  to  be  held  in  kind 
remembrance  by  the  }>eo}»le  of  this  State. 

•'  The  peopK'  of  Xew  ][ampshire,"'  he  said.  '•  understand 
your  history  ;  they  remember  your  illustrious  deeds,  and 
cherish  their  meuK^ries.  Y(Ki  have  perfornu'd  your  duties 
as  soldiers  well ;  now  you  have  duties  as  citizens  to  dis- 
t'har<::e.     The  soldiers  of  the    I'eirinients   which    have  re- 


204  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

turned  have  quietly  resumed  the  duties  of  citizens,  not- 
Avithstanding  disorder  was  prophesied.  They  have  been 
absorbed  in  industrial  classes." 

The  apparent  increase  of  crime  was  not  chargeable  to 
the  account  of  the  returned  soldier,  but,  he  believed,  to 
returned  rebels  from  the  South,  and  that  statistics  now 
being  prepared  in  Massachusetts  would  prove  this.  The 
soldiers  feel  the  dignity  and  importance  of  their  }>osition 
as  part  of  the  community.  The  people  had  a  duty  to 
perform  to  the  families  of  needy  soldiers.  State  aid  now 
ceased.  The  people  should  see  to  it  that  no  soldier,  nor 
wife  of  a  soldier,  nor  child  of  a  soldier,  should  suiter 
through  the  inclement  season.  Tliere  would  be  much 
quiet  suffering,  and  it  should  be  sought  out  and  relieved. 
No  less  than  this  is  due  to  the  fsimilies  of  the  soldiers 
who  have  oft'ered  their  lives  that  the  country  might  live. 

"And  now,  soldiers,"'  said  the  governor,  in  conclusion, 
"  I  wish  you  a  happy  and  merry  Christmas,  a  safe  return 
to  your  homes,  and  tliat  you  may  live  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  be  beloved  by  all  around  you.  Having  been  soldiers, 
brave  soldiers,  mav  von  now  l)e  citizens,  brave  citizens.'" 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

RAILROAD     AFFAIRS      AT    NEWPORT     AND     CLARP:M0NT.  THE 

GOVERNOR     RE-NOMINATED, 

In  March,  1866,  at  a  meeting  held  in  Xewport  by 
persons  interested  in  tlie  extension  of  tlie  Concord 
&  Claremont  Raih'oad  to  the  Connecticut  river,  Governor 
Smyth,  on  being  introduced  by  Hon.  Edmund  Burke,  was 
greeted  (according  to  correspondence  of  the  Boston  Jour- 
nal) "  with  repeated  rounds  of  enthusiastic  applause." 

He  said  that  although  it  was  his  first  visit  to  Xewport, 
he  saw"  many  friendly  faces.  He  paid  an  eloquent  tribute  of 
praise  and  respect  to  the  enterprise,  thrift,  and  intelligence 
of  the  people  of  northwestern  Xew  IIani[>shire,  and 
agreed  with  other  speakers  that  they  deserved  a  railroad. 
Xature  had  ordained  it,  tlie  country  awaited  development, 
money  was  offered,  and  (turning  to  the  venerable  Judge 
Xesmith,  who  presided)  he  added,  "  I  l)elieve  the  case  is 
ready  for  the  jury;  and  now,  gentlemen,  go  ahead  and 
build  your  road." 

In  June  following  a  meeting  was  held  at  Clarvmont,  in 
furtherance  of  the  same  object.  According  to  a  i\'[»ort  in 
the  Boston  Journal,  the  governor  spoke  about  lialf  an 
hour.  Among  other  things,  he  said  it  gave  him  great 
pleasure  to  visit  this  beautiful  town  and  lovely  valley.  "■  I 
have  long  wished  to  pay  my  respects  to  the  citizens  of 
this  section  of  the  State,  but  could  not  spend  the  time,  it 
takes  so  long  to  get  here.  Vour  })leasant  streets  and 
charming  hills  and  mountains  invite  delieious  re}H)se,  and  I 
wish  I  coiUd  spend  a  month  in  this  delightful  valley  of 
Xew  England.      Years  ago  the  peo}ile  of  Manchester  and 


206  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

vicinity  started  out  with  u  railroad  m  tliis  direction,  and 
we  expected  you  to  meet  us,  but  you  did  n't  come.  We 
got  as  far  as  Henniker,  and  then  hekl  out  our  arms  to 
embrace  you  :  V)ut  you  were  not  there  I  [  Applause.  ] 
Then  Governor  (lilmore  tore  ui>  part  of  tlie  track,  and 
began  another  route.  [A  voice:  "And  he  did  it  Sunday, 
too."  Laughter  and  ap]»lause.]  Xow  the  peojile  of 
central  and  southern  Xew  Hampshire  want  to  meet 
you  bv  one  route  if  they  can't  by  another.  As 
I  look  at  your  smiling  faces  to-day,  I  am  led  to 
l)elieve  that  if  you  should  will  it  you  might  raise  the 
money  for  tliis  railroad  in  one  liour,  and  commence  the 
wf)rk  to-morrow  morninti;.  [Applause.]  I  sincerely 
believe  tlie  line  will  be  built,  and  that  it  will  be  a 
profitable  investment.  It  will  not  be  any  branch  road, 
but  a  grand  passenger  and  freight  thoroughfare  to  the 
"West.  Permit  me  to  wish  you  the  greatest  success  in  the 
contenn»lated  scheme,  and  to  lio])e  that  ere  long  the 
whistle  of  the  iron  horse  may  be  heard  in  your  valleys 
and  along  your  streams,  and  may  reverberate  far  away 
among  the  mountains." 

Xothino-  of  moment  occurred  to  disturb  the  harmon\' 
of  affairs,  and  the  close  of  the  official  year  found  no  voice 
raised  against  the  rc-nomiiiation  of  (governor  Smyth, 
lie  was  I'e-elected  by  a  majority  of  about  five  thousand, 
a  victory  (piite  as  significant  as  that  of  his  first  year,  in 
1st!."),  when  the  flush  of  returning  peace  and  of  national 
victoi-y  had  s(»  far  subdued  Democratic  [>arty  zeal  that  a 
very  small  vote  was  ])olled.  I)Ut,  with  all  their  efforts, 
they  were  able  to  gain  only  about  seven  hundred  on 
tlieii'  \-ote  of  the  pre\ii)us  year. 

On  the  loth  of  March  folloA\ing,  there  \\as  a  meeting 
of  eoiigratnlatiou  in  Smyth's  Hall,  addressed  by  General 
Kdwanl  \V.  Tlinks,  of  Massachusetts,  and  others,  at 
which  the  governor  said,  whatever  doubts  he  miii'ht  have 


UK-NOMIXATrON    FOR    (iOVERNOK.  207 

(.'iitertainc'd  oi'  his  own  abilities  or  inei'its  in  tlie  disci lai'uv 
of  the  duties  to  which  he  had  been  called,  lie  never  for 
one  moment  distrusted  the  })atriotism  and  fidelity  of  the 
Re[)ul)lican  party  of  New  Hampsliire,  nor  the  verdict  they 
would  render  on  this  occasion.  They  had  a  clear  percep- 
tion of  the  situation,  and  com}»rehended  their  duties  as 
(^'iti/.ens  too  well  to  be  distracted  by  any  side  issue,  or  by 
any  apparent  difiereiices  amoiiii*  men  professing;;  to  <lesire 
the  same  eiuls.  In  this  city,  without  effort  and  almost 
without  orii;ani/.ation,  the  Republican  jtarty  had  li'ained 
on  their  vote  of  last  year.  Vov  this  com}iliment,  so  far 
as  it  was  personal,  he  beartily  thanked  them,  and  briefly 
but  ap[iropriately  alluded  to  his  ])ersonal  oblio-ations 
to  his  fellow  citizens  of  Manchester,  and  the  uniform 
8U})port  wliicli  tliey  had  rendered  him.  lUit  he  con- 
sidered that  men  and  personal  ends  or  i;'i'atitications  were 
of  little  monu'ut  compared  with  tlu'  u'reat  interests  that 
concern  the  nation  and  humanity.  The  enemies  of  free- 
dom and  e<[Ual  riu'hts  were  awake,  alert,  and  danu'crous. 
He  said  it  was  a  fact  that  no  man  could  truly  deny,  that 
New  Hampshire  lost  to  the  ]vc}tiiblican  party  wouM  ha\'e 
carried  _jf)y  to  the  heart  of  cvt'ry  rebel  aiul  c\"ei-y  rebel 
sympathizer,  from  the  dcsertci-s  avIio  lia\"e  come  in  from 
Canada  to  deposit  their  votes,  to  the  most  bittei'  son  of 
the  South  who  Utiw"  silently  chews  the  iMid  of  defeat  and 
meditates  new  treason  a^'ainst  the  (io\-eriuiient.  It  \\"ould 
lia\"e  rejoiced  those  who  Just  now  lo\e  Andri'W  Johnson 
only  because  they  hope  he  will  liel[i  them  desti'oy  the 
pai'ty  which  has  saxed  the  Cnion  :  an<l  this  hope  has  o-;il- 
vani/.e(l  so  much  lite  into  the  old  Democi'atic  jiartx'  of 
Xew  llamj^shire  that  slu-  would  have  surprised  and  pos- 
sibly beaten  men  whose  [latriotism  was  less  warm.  oi- 
whose  coui'au'e  had  not  been  trie<l  on  so  many  battle-fields. 
Xot  loiiii'  alter  the  election,  the  followini:'  eori'espond- 
euce  took  place  :  — 


208  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

State  of  New  Hampshire, 
Executive  Depahtmext, 
CoxcoKD,  N.  IL,  March  20,  1866. 

Hon.  AV.m.  H.  Seward,  Secretary  of  State,  Washing- 
ton, D.  C.  : 

Dear  *SV/' ;  I  am  infoniied  that  Captain  Cornelius 
Healov,  a  citizen  of  this  State,  and  olKcer  of  its  militia,  is 
now  incarcerated  in  Ireland,  by  order  of  the  British  Gov- 
ernment, upon  the  snspicii^n  (^f  being  engaged  in  the 
Fenian  movement. 

Captain  Healey  served  for  three  years  in  our  war 
against  the  Rebellion,  as  captain  of  the  Eighth  Xew 
Hampshire  A'olunteers,  and  won  the  reputation  of  a  l)rave 
and  faithful  officer. 

()n  returning  from  the  war,  biNjken  in  health,  and  still 
suifering  from  a  disease  contracted  in  the  service,  he  was 
advised  by  his  physician  to  take  a  sea  voyage  to  Ireland, 
in  the  hope  that  it  would  favorably  influence  the  disease 
under  which  he  was  suffering  :  acting  upon  the  sug- 
gestion, he  started  for  that  country  a  few  months  since, 
and,  as  I  understand,  was  seized  and  im[)risoned  soon 
after  his  arrival. 

It  is  (juite  imi)Ossil_)le  for  Cajitain  Healey,  in  liis  present 
condition,  to  endure  even  a  lirief  })eriod  of  imprisonment, 
without  nu)st  imminent  danger  of  serious  and  even  fatal 
(•onset [Ueuces,  and  I  feel  it  my  duty  to  urge  upon  you  the 
utmost  importance  of  immediate  steps  being  taken  by 
our  (Jovernment,  through  the  proper  officials,  to  lu'ing 
this  matter  to  tlie  notice  of  the  British  authorities,  with 
a  view  to  his  early  discharge  and  liberation. 

Trusting  that  the  subject  will  receive  your  immediate 
attention   and  apiiro}triate  action.  I  have  the  honor  to  l)e 
Your  obedient  servant, 

FREDERICK   SMYTH, 

(iroi't  I'lior  of  ]\rir  Htunp.^l'irr. 


CAPTAIN    HEALEY.  209 

Defaktment  of  State, 
Washington,  March  27,  1866. 

To  TIis  Excellency  Frederick  Smyth,  Governor  of  the 
State  of  Xew  Hampshire,  Concord,  jSJ".  II.  : 

Sir  :  I  have  the  honor  to  iiekuowledge  tlie  receipt  of 
yt)ur  letter  of  the  20tli  iiustunt,  and  its  aecoin})animents 
relative  to  the  arrest  and  detention  of  Captain  Ilealey 
in  Ireland,  upon  a  charge  of  being  connected  with  the 
Fenian  niovement,  and  to  inform  you  that  the  matter  will 
l)e  brought  to  the  attenti(jn  of  the  British  Government 
at  the  earliest  practicable  moment,  by  Mr.  Adams,  the 
United  States  minister  in  London. 

I  have  the  honor  to  be  your  excellency's  very  obedient 
servant, 

WILLIAM   II.    SEWARD. 

Perhaps  no  member  of  the  Republican  party  ever  en- 
joyed greater  po}iularity  among  our  fellow-citizens  of 
Irish  descent  in  Manchester.  His  prompt  action  in  behalf 
of  Captain  Ilealey  is  an  indication  of  the  quality  that 
pr<)duces  this  }»opularitv. 

The  Ivcpublican  nominating  convention  for  State  otH- 
rers  met  in  Phenix  Hall,  at  Concord,  .January  3,  1866. 
Tlie  following  resolution  from  the  party  platform  for  the 
year  will  show  the  estimate  [)Ut  upon  the  standing  (»f  the 
candidate  :  — 

"  litsolral.  That  the  State  and  national  faith,  pledged 
for  the  redemption  of  the  public  debt  incurretl  in  defense 
of  the  Union,  must  be  kept  inviolate:  and  that  we  iiisi>t 
ujion  an  economy  in  the  })ublic  ex[ieiiditures,  and  pledge 
the  Rejtublican  ]>arty  of  Xew  Hampshire  to  retrenchment 
and  reforin,  wherever  practicable;  and  of  the  sincerity 
of  this  pledge  we  give  the  highest  guaranty  in  our 
power,  l»y  presenting  again    for  re-election  our  jircseiit 


210  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

po[mlar  chief  magistrate,  Hon.  Frederick  Smjtli,  against 
wliose  official  or  personal  integrity  not  even  [>olitical 
rancor  lias  dared  utter  a  word.  The  people  know  his 
devotion  to  their  interests,  honor  his  integrity,  and  will 
triinnpliantly  re-elect  him." 

After  the  aniionncement  of  the  action  of  the  conven- 
tion had  been  made  known  to  Governor  Smyth  with  the 
usual  form,  he  came  forward,  was  received  with  hearty 
ap}»lause,  and  said  :  — 

Gi:xTLEMr:x  of  the  Convention  : 

I  will  not  pretend  an  inditference  to  the  manner  in 
which  you  have  received  me  here  to  day,  nor  to  the  very 
tiattering  unanimity  which  has  characterized  your  action. 
Having  conscientiously  laboi'ed  for  what  I  believed  to  be 
the  best  interests  of  Xew  Hampshire,  if  in  so  doing  I  have 
met  your  ap[)robation  and  that  of  the  people  whom  you 
rejiresent.  it  is  the  highest  I'cward  }>ossible  to  any  public 
servant.  I  thank  you,  therefore,  sincerely  and  heartily, 
for  the  nomination  ;  and  it  is  also  not  impro}»er  on  this 
occasion  that!  should  notice  the  consideration  with  which 
the  measures  of  my  administration  have  been  received, 
both  by  pai'ties  and  ]ieople,  many  of  whom  would 
undoubtedly  have  preferred  some  other  man  to  represent 
their  interests  and  tlieir  }»rinciples;  and  this  is  done  the 
more  readily  because  1  am  not  conscious  that  I  have 
varied  a  hair  from  princi}»le,  or  wavered  a  particle  in  the 
<lischarge  of  duty,  to  seek  ap})robation  of  friend  or  foe. 
But  r  will  say,  gentlemen,  that  in  my  efforts  to  advance 
and  iiromote  tlie  interests  of  the  State  I  have  found  only 
kind  woi'ds  and  good  wishes  everywhere  and  on  all  sides. 
So  far  as  this  coubl  alleviate  the  aiixieties  always  insep- 
ai-able  from  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  responsible 
office,  nothing  remains  to  l>ewislied  for.  The  manner  of 
its  bestowal  will  encouraue  and  streni^-fhen   me  throui^h 


REPUBLICAN    CONVENTION.  211 

the  rciiiaiiuii<ii;  months  of  my  term,  and,  if  ratified  by  the 
people,  I  shall  for  another  year  sacrifice  any  }>ersonal 
consideration  which  may  stand  in  the  way  of  a  full  dis- 
charii::e  of  duty  to  the  State.  All  my  strength  and  powers 
shall  he  devoted  to  developing  the  ample  resources,  and 
encouraging  the  industries,  of  our  l)eloved  State.  With 
the  restoration  of  i^eace,  blessed  peace,  N^ew  IIami)shire 
must  assume  the  rank  to  wdiich  she  is  nobly  entitled 
among  the  progressive  States  of  the  Union.  Others  may 
excel  her  in  many  of  the  conditions  whicli  go  to  make  up 
national  wealth,  but  an  intelligent  people,  well-managed 
finances,  indomitable  industry,  and  thorough  jtatriotism, 
with  reverence  for  the  laws  of  God,  and  respect  for  the 
laws  and  rights  of  man,  make  her  rich  in  the  essential 
elements  of  true  greatness.  Allow  me  to  thank  you 
again,  gentlemen  of  the  convention,  for  the  manner  of 
this  reception  and  nomination,  and  to  wish  you  a  safe 
return  to  happ}'  homes  and  families,  and  }irosperity 
durinsr  life. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

SECOND     INAUGUKAL     ADDRESS. 

The  second  inauguration  of  Governor  Smyth,  on  the 
7th  of  June,  1866,  was  attended  by  a  large  concourse  of 
citizens,  and  by  several  distinguished  officials  from  other 
States,  including  Governors  Bullock,  of  Massachusetts, 
and  Dillingham,  of  Vermont.  The  escort  Avas  unusually 
large,  and  Avas  composed  in  good  degree  of  those  who 
had  served  in  the  war,  and  who  gave  evidence  of  martial 
training.     Following  is  the  message  :  — 

Gentlemen  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representa- 
tives : 
Appearing  before  30U  to  assume  the  res})onsible  duties 
which  have  again  been  confided  to  my  charge,  allow  me 
first  to  congratulate  you  upon  the  extensive  and  impor- 
tant improvements  which  we  witness  in  this  now  commo- 
dious and  attractive  public  edifice.  Xeither  should  it  be 
forgotten  that  for  these  improved  facilities  and  ample 
accommodations  wc  are  indebted  to  the  })ublic  spirit  and 
judicious  enter])rise  of  the  city  of  Concord.  The  po[)ular 
L'Xi)e<'tation  created  by  its  pledges  has  been  fully  and 
i'airly  met,  and  the  Ca})itol  of  the  State  will  no  longer  be 
regarded  as  an  impeachment  u})on  the  character  of  tlie 
]ie(jple  for  progressive  entei'prise.  The  several  aitartmeiits 
assigned  for  the  use  of  the  various  })ublic  officers  seem  to 
b(_'  adequate  and  convenient  for  the  transaction  of  public 
Ijusiness,  while  increased  security  is  afibrded  to  the 
records,  so  long  exposed  to  destruction  by  fire  and  other- 
wise, Tlie  condition  of  the  public  grounds  immediately 
surrounding  the  Caj)itol  will  doubtless  receive  your  atten- 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS. 


213 


tioii.  They  should  he  protected  from  eiicroaehments, 
and  made  as  attractive  as  tlieir  limits  will  allow.  Having 
thus  secured  to  ourselves  the  essential  re([uisites  for  the 
transaction  of  the  puhlic  husiness,  we  shall,  I  trust,  in  all 
things  keep  pace  with  this  improvement,  so  long  needed, 
and  so  admirahly  accomplished. 

FINANCE. 

The  receipts  into  the  treasury  of  the  State  for  the  year 
ending  June  1,  1866,  were  $4,116,078.54,  and  were  de- 


lelv :  — 


rived  from  the  following  sources,  nai 

State   tax  .... 

Railroad  tax      .... 
Saviii<i;"s  l)ank  tax 
Ihiited  States  war  claims 
Civil  commissions     . 
Public  property 
Copyright  of  N.  II.  reports 
State-prison       .... 
Interest  on  dej^^^'its 
State  bonds       .... 
State  notes        .... 
In  treasm-v  .June  1,  18H5 


The  disbursements  of  the  year  amounted    to  -So, 958, 
108.69,    an<l   were  for    the   f(>llowing    purposes:  — 


:  — 

.  $7-18,130 

12 

.   184,967 

92 

56,077 

17 

91,852 

98 

714 

00 

18 

57 

533 

00 

1,034 

77 

1,295 

92 

.   610,228 

24 

.  2,397,675 

74 

2:!, 744 

11 

.^4.116,07^ 

54 

Towns  for  State  aid 

Bounty  to  volunteers 

^lilitary  expi^iises 

Keeruitino'  fees 

Cattle  eomniis.sioners 

Salaries     ..... 

Legislature         .... 

Council      ..... 

Legislative  I'esolutions 

Towns.     Kailroad  tax  dividends 

Towns.    Savinu's  l)ank  tax  dividend 


.*509,2(»4  92 

50.200  00 

21.(113  84 

.".,250  OO 

H^){\  ry.i 

29,84S  29 

28.91  ()  4n 

3.221  4o 

15,645  .si 

.S5.6 14  91 

4;;.9(>6  74 


214 


LIFE   OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 


Suite  printing,  including  Adj. -Gen era? s  report 
Volunteer  militia      ...... 

Adj. -General  and (jiiarternuisters l)ei)artnieiit> 
Extra  edition  of  Adj. -(ioneral"s  report 
State-prison       ....... 

Asylum  for  the  Insane      ..... 

House  of  Reformation 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  .... 

Trust  funds       ....... 

Governor's  contingent  fund       .         .         .         . 

Abatement  of  taxes  ..... 

School  commissioners        .         .         .         .         . 

National  cemeter\-    ...... 

Fish  conmiissioncrs  ...... 

Bounty  on  wild  animals 

Notes  jjaid         ....... 

Interest     


Cash  in  Treasury,  June  1,  18G6 


ST.\TE    DEBT. 


Funded  debts  and  trust  funds  . 
Note< 

Total  deljl,  June  1,  1SG(; 


14,G4o  53 

1,753  60 

«,026  14 

2,757  07 

211  73 

6,647  09 

6,250  00 

1.067  92 

Gdo  21 

10  87 

730  13 

725  91 

1,260  00 

100  00 

218  50 

.  2,831,149  57 

.      286,411  55 

83,958,199  69 
.      157,878  85 

84,116.(178  54 


.82,238,152  15 
1,922.546  74 

84,161 1. 69.S  89 


Tlic  cash  ill  tlie  trea.-^ury  is  sufficient  to  ]iay  all  jtresent 
outstaiidiiiir  obligations,  as  estimated  ])}•  tlie  auditor. 

Tlic  details  of  tlie  foreg'oinii-  rccei}its  and  expenditures 
arc  given  in  the  report  of  the  auditor,  in  which  is  clearly 
indicated  the  source  (jf  all  receipts  into  the  treasury,  and 
to  whom  and  for  what  all  expenditures  have  heeu  made. 
It  will  he  ol)>crvcd  that  the  transactions  of  the  treasury 
the  ]>ast  year  greatly  exceed  in  amount  those  of  any  ])re- 
vious  year.  It  has,  in  fact,  heen  the  ]»aying  year  of  the 
war,  and  it  is  a  matter  of  congratulation  that  we  liavc 
been  able  to  pass  through  it  not  only  unscathed   in  our 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  215 

creilit,  but  have  strengtliened  the  confidence  of  our  cred- 
itors in  our  ability  and  determination  to  meet  and  dia- 
cliarge  our  obligations  promptly  at  maturity. 

To  provide  for  the  heavy  and  pressing  demands  upon 
the  treasury  at  the  lowest  })Ossil)le  rates,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  strengthen  and  imjirove  our  securities  in  the 
money  market,  has  been  the  anxious  and  laborious  task 
of  the  executive  the  past  year.  It  has  been  necessary  to 
raise  upwards  of  three  millions  of  dollars  to  meet  the 
outstanding  and  maturing  obligations  of  the  State,  In  no 
instance  has  more  than  the  market  rate  of  interest  been 
]iaid,  or  more  than  could  have  been  realized  from  invest- 
ments in  (ilovernment  securities  at  current  i»rices,  although 
exempt  from  taxation,  while  ours  were  not.  The  highest 
rate  that  has  l)een  paid  is  eight  per  cent,  while  consider- 
able sums  have  been  obtained  at  six  and  seven. 

Tlie  revenue  the   i)reseiit   year,  as  (!sti- 

mated  by  the  auditor,  will  be  .  SS.'jG.SOO 

II(!  estimates  the  ordiuary  expenses  at  .     891, 02o 
Extraordinary  expenses,  enil)raeing  State 

aid  due  towns,  interest  on  notes  and 

bonds,   ai)propriations   to  eliaritable 

institutions,  and  Irii'islativt;  resolves     .")1,'],.V)0 — (;')4,.")L'.") 

Lcavinti'  tol)c  ap])lied  to  ihe  reduction  of 

tlie  State  debt >!2-")2.27.') 

If  this  session  of  tlic  Ug'islaturc  should  not  \)v  ]iro- 
tractcd  beyond  tliat  of  last  year,  and  if  ail  olainis  upon 
the  treasury  \vhieli  will  be  pressed  upon  your  attention 
shall  be  most  carefully  scrutinized,  and  the  most  rigid 
economy  and  rigoi'nus  retreiicliment  of  ex}icnses  are 
insisted  u[>oii  in  all  the  depai'tiiients,  I  have  great  conti- 
dence  that  this  gratitying  I'esult  may  be  realized. 

The  (Ordinary  exjienses  of  the  State  should  be  bi-oiight 
back  to  a  peace  basis  as  rajMdly  as  the  condition  of  public 
ati'airs  A\ill   admit.      Satisfactory  [irogress  has  been   made 


216  LIFE    OF    FREDEKICK    SMYTH. 

in  this  direction  the  past  year,  and  the  present  Avill,  I 
anticipate,  witness  a  substantial  return  to  it.  Tliis  duty 
we  owe  to  tlie  present  and  prospective  tax-payers  of  our 
State. 

The  discontinuance  of  State  aid,  and  other  items  of 
extraor(hnary  expenditure  growing  out  of  the  war,  will 
admit  of  a  reduction  of  the  State  tax  of  $250,000  next 
year,  and  still  leave  a  [»robahle  lialance  of  1200,000  to  he 
applied  in  reduction  of  the  State  del>t. 

In  view  of  the  heavy  town  and  national  taxation,  I 
would  favor  the  policy  of  redu(  ing  our  State  tax  annually 
to  a  sum  sufficient  only  to  meet  all  current  expenditures, 
and  to  i)ay  .^200, 000  of  the  principal  of  our  debt,  which 
will  wholly  discharge  it  in  twenty  years. 

The  treasurer  has  now  on  hand  about  three  and  one 
quarter  million  dollars  in  six  per  cent  un-negotiated  l>onds, 
authorized  by  the  laws  of  1861,  18(32,  and  18»j4,  which  it 
has  2iot  been  deemed  advisable  to  place  upon  the  market. 
I  recommend  that  these  bonds  be  destroyed,  witli  the 
exception  of  half  a  million,  which,  with  what  have  lieen 
negotiated,  will  be  as  large  an  amount  as  we  shall  need, 
or  can  well  protect,  in  that  form.  The  very  existence  of 
so  large  an  amount  of  bonds  now  on  hand,  and  liable  to 
be  put  u})on  tin-  niarkt't.  has  a  damaging  etfect  upon  all 
our  securities. 

The  tloating  debt  of  the  State  is  now  in  a  condition,  if 
wi>ely  iiianag\-(b  to  be  carried  without  great  inconve- 
nience, and.  when  reduced,  as  it  may  l>e  by  the  saU'  of 
the  hahmce  of  these  bonds,  th(M'e  can  be  but  little  danger 
of  serious  enil)an'assments  resulting  therefrom,  while  it 
will  be  subject  to  :in  annual  reduction  tVoni  an  ajiplieatiou 
of  the  State  revenues  to  its  extinguishment. 

Xo  legislation  in  regard  to  oui-  tinances  is  asked  at  the 
ju-eseiit  si'ssion.  except  authority  to  [irovide  means  to 
meet  nuitui-ing  obligations,  amounting  to  about  SI, 800, 000. 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  217 

I  particularly  invite  your  attention  to  the  full  and  care- 
ful statements  relating  to  our  iinsuu-ial  transactions,  con- 
tained in  the  ahle  report  of  the  auditor. 

CLAIMS    A(;AIXST    TllK    IMTKI)     STATES. 

In  the  rei>ort  of  the  State  treasurer,  last  June,  a  charge 
against  the  United  States  of  ^494,451. 37  was  reckoned  as 
availahle  assets,  and  deducted  from  the  State  indehtedness 
of  that  date.  On  examination  into  this  claim,  soon  after 
the  adjournment  of  the  legislature,  it  was  found  that  the 
State  owed  the  United  States  8118,600.45,  hy  the  account 
at  Washington,  which  was  as  follows  :  — 

AMOUNT    CHAR(;KD    THE    STATE. 

1S2() — Nov.  1.  BiiltuH'C   on    .settU'iiicut,   this 

date  ....  ,S10,,s;!9  94 

1861—  Oftsct  of  (liivct  tax  .         .  lSo,(J4o  07 

1861— Oft.  7.     Casli 2()0,0(tO  (>(» 

186;')— Sept.  1!).     Casli 2-24/jOO  (tO 

1864— Jan.  1:5.     Casli 47,i;U  19 

1864— Dec.  16.     Cash 2uO,0(tU  00 


.«S(i7,619  80 
I)e(hii-tino-  aiUDunt    ci'etHteil    to    tlie    State    on 

ehiinis  aUowed  in  I'nll  to  Jmie.  isii,')  .  .     7,")4.nl9  ;;,") 

J.eft  (Ine  I'niteil  States .■?!  l;>,6iX)  4.") 

Tlie   whole  amount  of  claims  char<:'e(l  hy  the 

State  to  the  I'nited  States.  \nii)V  to  .luiic. 

jsi;.'),  was .^1,:U9..")<»4  IS 

From    which   should    lie   deducted  a   claim    foi' 

lioi-e^,  for  which   pay  had  been   received. 

tor  l'vho(h'  Island  Cavalrv.  of     .  .  .        ;)S.490  00 


Leavin<i- actual  amount      ....         ••SI ,;;i  l.ol  t  18 
Deduetinii-  from  tliis  the  w  liok'  amount  allowed 

to  .June  1,  isi;,') 7o4.ol'.)  .-l.") 


Left  suspend(Hl  and  disallowed  .  .  .    ."9.3.")().994  S,"! 

Claims  aiide(l  <ince  -June.  iMl.')  .  .  .        ;)4,0l7  46 


218  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Making  the   amount  rejected  and  unadjusted 

at  that  time §591,012  29 

There  has  been  allowed  of  these  claims  during 

the  past  year 157,819  24 


Leaving  a  balance  still  rejected         .         .         .  8-133,193  05 

From  the  foregoing  sum,  thus  allowed     .         .      157,819  24 
Deducting  the  balance  due  from   the  United 

State-i,  as  before  shown     ....      113,600  45 


Leaves  a  balance  of $44,218  79 

Received  into  the  State  Trcusur}',  which  with 
■*47,1.')4.19,  foTuid  charged  tlie  .State  in 
1804,  which  was  not  received  until  Decem- 
ber last        ...  ...        47,134  19 

Shows  paid  into  the  Treasury,  tlie  pa^^t  3'ear, 
from  these  claims,  after  paying  all  the 
balance  wliich  was  due  the  (ieneral  Gov- 
»n-nmcut  891,352  98 

All  the  foregoiiii;:  claims  were  for  raising,  subsisting, 
arming,  und  equii)ping  the  earlier  regiments  sent  into  the 
tield  l)etore  the  (-General  (government  had  got  its  war 
macliinerv  in  motion. 

By  act  of  C'ongress.  })assed  July  17,  1861,  tlie  secre- 
tary of  the  treasury  was  authorized  to  pay  to  the  States 
claims  of  this  character,  on  the  presentation  of  ''proper 
vouchers. ■■  Great  ditticulty  has  l)een  experienced  in 
ohtaining  the  "  voiu-hers '"  ]-ei|uired  hy  the  rules  of  the 
department.  f)r  claims  which  had  l)een  once  rejected, 
and  it  ^vas  only  by  urgent  and  persistent  effort  tliat  these 
last  allowances  have  been  ol)tained,  —  in  some  cases  by 
jirocuring  a  modification  of  the  rules  of  the  treasury 
dei.artment.  Most  of  the  balance  of  the  S433,li»4.60, 
still  rejecte<l.  Iteiug  for  bounties  ]iaid  by  the  State  to 
induce  men  to  \"olunteer.  is  entirely  inadmissible,  and 
never  should  have  been  pi-esented,  as  no  such  claim  is 
;iUthori/.cd    by  the   act,   or  has  ever  been    paid     to    any 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  219 

State  by  the  United  States.  The  remainder  consists  of 
expenditures  on  account  of  connnissioned  officers,  ex- 
jienses  of  agents  sent  from  the  State  to  take  care  of  sick 
and  wounded  soldiers,  (considered  as  "  patriotic  contribu- 
tions!"') })ayments  made  to  officers  and  men  wlio  were 
paid  a  second  time  by  the  United  States  ]>avniaster,  excess 
in  price  paid  for  military  property,  and  a  variety  of  mis- 
cellaneous expenditures  for  which  no  vouchers  have  yet 
been  found. 

Kffiorts  will  not  be  relaxed  by  the  executive  to  obtain 
still  more  of  these  suspended  claims,  if  possible ;  but 
there  is  no  [)robability  that  more  than  some  twenty  or 
thirty  thousand  dollars  of  the  same  can  be  allowed, 
without  further  action  of  Congress,  which  is  contidently 
hoped  for. 

CLAI.MS    i)V    THE   CITIES    AND    TOWNS    FOR  NATIONAL  BOUNTIES 

ADVANCED. 

Under  the  call  of  the  President  for  800,000  men,  to  be 
raised  prior  to  January  o,  1864,  the  eities  and  towns  in 
this  State  were  authorized  by  the  provost-marshal  gen- 
eral to  advance  the  national  bounties  to  volunteers,  to  till 
their  ([uotas  under  this  call,  with  the  understanding  that 
the  bounties  thus  advanced  would  be  refunded  in  install- 
ments, as  they  became  due.  through  the  agency  of  the 
State  authorities. 

The  sum  thus  advanced  amounted,  in  tlie  aggregate,  to 
8065,512.  The  tirst  installment,  of  8107,304,  was  received 
before  the  tr(X)ps  left  for  the  tield.  and  820,920  only  of 
the  second  installment,  shortl}-  after,  which  was  dis- 
tril)uted  to  tlie  towns  by  the  State  treasurer.  Xo  further 
jiayments  having  been  nuide,  upon  an  in\'estigation  at 
"Washington  for  the  cause  of  the  suspension  of  these 
reiml>ursements,  I  learned  that  tlie  allotment  rolls,  con- 
taining an  account  of  these  advance  bounties,  which  had 


220  IJFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

been  furnished  the  paymaster-general  by  the  State,  had 
been  lost,  and  that  in  some  cases  these  bounties  had 
again  Iteen  paid  to  tlie  men  in  the  iield  by  the  paymasters. 
I  also  ascertained  of  the  second  auditor  of  the  treasury 
that  the  htrrs  of  some  of  these  men  who  died  in  the 
service  were  receiving  the  bounties  to  which  they  would 
have  l>ccn  entitled  had  no  assignment  been  made,  the 
auditor  having  no  knowledge  of  them.  After  furnishing 
the  proper  papers,  and  after  many  and  repeated  importu- 
nities, the  payment  to  the  soldier,  or  his  lieirs,  was  sus- 
pended, and  an  examination  instituted  to  ascertain  what 
portion  of  these  claims  was  still  due,  and  orders  obtained 
for  tlie  balance,  to  be  paid  agreeably  to  the  assignments. 
There  is  great  difficulty  and  delay  in  correctly  adjusting 
this  matter,  caused  by  the  large  number  of  desertions 
found  to  have  taken  place  from  these  volunteers,  and  also 
in  ascertaining  whether  those  reported  missing  are  de- 
serters, fir  deceased.  In  some  of  the  regiments  to  whii-h 
these  men  were  assigned,  more  than  half  deserted. 
Tlie  Ijounties  of  these  will  not.  of  course,  be  repaid,  and 
will  be  a  total  loss  to  the  towns,  while  those  who  received 
them  disgraced  the  town,  the  State,  and  the  regiments  to 
which  tiiey  were  assigned. 

T  n(tw  have  reliable  assurances  that  the  liounties  not 
paid  prior  to  this  examination,  of  those  who  served 
during  the  time  of  enlistment,  and  of  those  who  died  in 
the  service,  will  lie  refunded  as  soon  as  the  number  can 
be  ascertained.  About  -StiO.OOO  of  this  has  been  paid  to 
the  State  treasui'er  ^\■ithiu  a  few  days.  This  amount, 
witli  all  that  shall  hereafter  be  received,  will  be  distri- 
buted to  the  towns  t(;  whieli  it  belongs.  The  payruents 
which  have  heeii  \\rongfully  made  to  the  soldier,  or  hi> 
heirs,  liy  the  ruited  States,  cannot  be  repaid  to  the  towns 
except  liy  an  act  of  Congress,  which  there  is  a  favor- 
able [ii'ospect  (if  procuring.     Ktlbrts  will  l)e  continued  to 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  221 

secure  all  the  rights  of  towns  in  this  matter,  with  as  little 
delay  as  possible. 

WAR     EXPENSES    OF     TOWNS. 

Ill  accordance  with  a  law  passed  at  the  last  session  of 
the  legislature,  a  commission  has  been  appointed  to 
audit  the  war  expenses  of  towns,  and  their  report  will  l)e 
submitted  to  you  at  the  present  session.  These  ex}>enses 
will  appear  of  extraordinary  magnitude,  amounting  to 
between  six  and  seven  millions  of  dollars ;  but  the  cir- 
cumstances under  whicli  they  were  contracted  were  such 
as  rendered  the  exercise  of  a  strict  or  judicious  economy 
very  difficult, 

A  year's  experience  in  the  management  of  tlie  State 
iinances  has  but  strengthened  and  conlirmed  the  convic- 
tion expressed  in  my  former  message,  that  the  assumption 
of  this  debt,  or  any  portion  of  it,  by  the  State,  will  be 
absolutely  impracticable,  prior  to  the  action  of  tlie  Gen- 
eral Government  in  that  direction.  The  close  of  the  war 
found  the  credit  of  the  State  threatened  with  disaster, 
and  clamorous  creditors  knocking  in  vain  at  the  door  of 
an  empty  treasury.  If  puldic  confidence  has  been  since 
restored,  it  is  l)eeause  we  have  declared  that  the  State 
debt  has  reached  its  limit  of  expansion,  and  is  now  jilaced 
upon  a  basis  of  gradual  diminution  and  final  extinction. 
Any  increase,  under  these  circumstances,  would  shake 
the  re-established  confidence,  and  send  us  again  into  tlie 
money  market,  as  before,  begging  for  loans  at  exorbitant 
interest;  ^^■llereas  money  is  now  easily  ol)tained  at  the 
legal  and  cnstoniary  rates.  The  only  condition  u])on 
which  any  portion  of  this  debt  can  be  pro}ierly  assumed 
by  the  State,  prior  to  the  assumption  of  the  same  by  the 
General  Government,  is  upon  a  ccu'resiionding  increase  of 
the  State  tax.  and  an  immediate  payment  of  the  same, — 
a  course  that  you  will  very  readily  appreciate  could  afi'ord 


222  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

no  relief.  The  towns  can  provide  for  this  debt,  when 
snbdivided  among  them  as  it  now  is ;  l)ut  its  management 
through  tlio  State  Government,  in  the  unwieldy  aggregate 
shown  b}-  the  report  of  the  eommittee,  is  practically  ini- 
possiV)le.  It  would  be  unwise  and  impolitic  in  the  ex- 
treme to  further  burden  the  credit  of  the  State,  as  well 
as  unjust  to  those  who  hold  her  bonds,  and  have  a  right 
to  demand  a  [irudent  care  for  her  financial  interests. 
Under  present  and  impending  obligations  which  must  be 
met,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  burden  will 
be  easily  sustained ;  Init  were  such  obligations  to  be 
ofreatlv  increased  now,  none  would  suffer  more  than  those 
who  are  asking  for  this  very  aid. 

I  would,  however,  recommend  that  whatever  portion  of 
the  State  and  town  l>ounties  the  General  Government 
nuiy  hereafter  refund,  be  apjtortioned  among  the  several 
towns  in  })roportion  to  the  innnber  of  men  furnished  by 
each.  Should  Congress  ultimately  take  such  action  in 
this  matter  as  is  now  generally  anticipated,  great  and 
substantial  relief  will  thus  be  furnished. 

TAXATIOX. 

The  heavy  l)urdens  which  the  recent  Kebellion  has  cast 
upon  the  country,  and  which  still  press  upon  the  people 
in  the  form  of  national,  State,  and  local  indebtedness, 
necessitates  a  system  of  taxation  whicli  will  be  borne 
without  complaint,  only  when  fairly  and  equitably  imposed 
u}ioii  eveiy  class,  and  upon  all  kinds  of  property.  The 
ordinary  routine  of  taxation  in  former  years  was  so  little 
felt  that  it  hardly  occasioned  complaint  in  any  quarter, 
and  it  was  for  the  most  }»art  fairly  distributed  ujion  all 
visible  or  corjiorcal  property.  Upon  that  kind  of  prop- 
erty represented  by  }»romises  to  }>ay,  and  otlier  evidences 
of  indebtedness,  it  has  fallen  very  lightly,  and  the  cunning 
and  crafty  have  learned,  in  one  wav  or  another,  to  evade 


SECOND    INAU<}UKAL    ADDRESS.  223 

the  tax-gatlioror,  and  to  secure  exemption  in  the  \-eiy 
quarter  wliere  there  was  the  most  undouhted  ability  to 
pay.  Yet  in  the  i^eneral  pros})erlty  and  ease  of  individual 
affairs,  this  scarcely  elicited  a  })assinii-  comment. 

Xow  all  lu'anches  of  industry  are  burdened  with  taxa- 
tion, and  the  demands  of  the  collector  have  increased  four- 
fohh  While  every  tangil)le  article  in  a  man"s  possession 
is  made  to  contribute  to  the  general  treasury,  it  ])ecomes 
a  nuitter  oi"  vital  interest  to  a  very  great  majority  of  tlie 
people,  that  every  one  should  bear  a  Just  share  of  tlie 
Inirdens.  And  even  were  there  a  small  minority  oidy 
who  feel  the  une<|Ual  weight  of  this  load,  the  universal 
sense  of  Justice  re(iuircs  that  it  shall  be  made  as  equal  as 
the  imperfection  of  human  legislation  will  allo^\■. 

In  this  connection  I  cannot  forbear  allusion  to  a  kin- 
dred subject,  which,  although  not  witliin  the  direct  spliere 
of  your  action,  is  yet  too  important  in  its  effects  upon  the 
welfare  of  the  people  not  to  receive  attention. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  fund  our  national  debt,  esti- 
mated, in  round  numbers,  at  three  thousand  millions  of 
dollars,  in  bonds  exempt  from  taxation.  AVliatever  may 
have  been  the  wisdom  which  [)rompted  the  resort  by 
which  tliese  loans  were  obtained,  all  are  ready  to  admit 
the  great  national  exigency  which  called  lor  extraordinary 
measures.  In  the  midst  of  a  contlict,  tlie  duration  of 
wliich  no  man  i-ould  pi'edict,  (lovernmcnt  A\as  forced  to 
enter  the  market  armed  with  every  ad\-antage  which  wis- 
dom could  <lc\i>e,  and  every  attraction  which  should 
forestall  all  com})etitoi-s.  It  therefore  practically  said  to 
the  desired  crcditoi'.  Take  my  bonds,  and  your  iieighboi', 
who  has  less  faith  or  means,  shall  jtay  all  the  taxes.  It' 
tliere  was  at  that  time  any  thought  or  complaint  of  injus- 
tice, it  was  drowned  by  the  din  of  arms,  or  banished  bv 
more  immediate  and  pressing  danger.  The  jilediivs  were 
given,  the  loans  effected,  and  the  nation  saved  in  its  hour 


224  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

of  trial  and  danger.  Of  course  the  faith  and  pledge  of 
the  nation,  in  this,  as  in  other  things,  must  be  sacredly 
kept. 

But  circumstances  are  now  changed ;  the  national  credit 
is  all  the  l)etter  for  the  terrific  storm  which  it  has  }>assed 
throuo-h  and  successfully  withstood.  Whoever  doubts  it, 
with  an  adequate  knowledge  of  the  great  resources  at 
command,  would  liardly  be  assured  bv  any  security  which 
it  is  possible  to  imagine.  Since  necessity  is  no  longer  an 
element  in  the  calculation,  and  the  Government  does  not 
need  to  compete  with  its  feebler  rivals  in  the  money 
markets  of  the  country,  it  would  seem  to  be  but  a  simple 
<|uestion  of  justice,  whether  it  will  still  adhere  to  a  posi- 
tion assumed  under  great  pressure.  The  debt  of  the 
G(jvernment  is  within  its  grasp,  aud  can  be  managed 
without  difficulty.  Is  there  any  good  and  valid  reason  for 
funding  it  in  securities  exempt  from  local  and  State  taxa- 
tion ?  Clearly,  I  tliink  not;  and  that  great  inequality, 
liardship,  and  injustice,  will  result  from  so  doing.  A 
large  portion  of  the  sur}ilus  wealth  of  tlie  country  is  now 
invested  in  national  securities,  and  will  long  remain  so. 
There  is  no  sound  reason  existing  why  all  the  wealth  of 
tlie  country  should  not  l)e  equally  taxed.  If  it  were 
}>ossible,  to-day,  to  make  every  dollar  of  pro}terty  of 
every  kind  contribute  its  just  share  toward  the  burden  of 
the  (Tovernment,  from  the  sehool  district  upward,  the  load 
would  be  borne  nuieh  move  easily.  The  contiict  Avhieli 
may  lie  jirovoked  between  the  holders  of  this  fortunate 
jirojierty  and  those  whose  business  necessities  re^piire 
them  to  invest  elsewhere,  will  at  length  endanger  the 
bonds  themselves,  for  they  lose  their  value  unless  l)ased 
on  the  i-redit  of  a  well-governed  and  contented  cotintry. 

Of  the  dangers  and  evils  of  class  legislation,  we  have 
already  seen  too  much;  and  while  tlie  faith  of  the  nation 
should  be  ke[tt  inviolate,  it  would  seem  to  Ijc  most  unwise 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  225 

to  i)erpetuato  a  class  of  ])roi)orty-liol(lers  exeiinited  from 
taxation.  Tlie  national  treasury  is  al)le  to  take  up  tlie 
load,  and  impose  it  again  in  a  fair  and  eipiitable  manner, 
and  thus  encourage  tlie  great  middle  class,  and  the  ])eople 
in  the  farming  towns,  remote  from  the  vicinity  of  great 
markets,  avIio  find  their  taxes  ditKcult  to  pay,  especially 
under  an  instinctive  sense  of  injustice. 

T  liope  you  will,  at  an  early  day,  make  some  decided 
ex})ression  of  opinion,  such  as  may  indicate  to  the  repre- 
sentatives of  Xew  Ihunpshire,  in  Congress,  the  feeling 
which  exists  upon  this  subject. 

INDUSTRIES    OF    THE    STATE. 

In  my  last  message  T  alluded  to  the  resources  iA'  the 
State,  of  all  descriptions,  as  offering  inducements  to  in- 
dustry and  prudence  on  the  part  of  our  people.  The 
ettbrts  which  were  then  going  on  for  their  develoinnent 
have  been  crowned  with  al)undant  success. 

In  agricultural  enterprise  Xew  Hampshire  keejis  pace 
with  her  sister  States  by  the  adoption  of  new  methods  of 
improvement,  and  by  constant  devotion  to  every  means 
of  rendering  the  cultivation  of  her  soil  remunerative  to 
the  farmer.  Tliere  is,  even  to  the  most  careless  observer, 
universal  evidence  of  growing  prosperity,  manifested  in 
well-ordered  and  comfortable  buihhngs,  cultivated  fields, 
and  domestic  animals,  well  bred  and  wisely  cared  for. 

At  the  Xew  KnglaudFair  last  year  we  had  every  reason 
to  l)e  proud  of  the  ci)ntril»utions  from  our  own  farmers; 
and  it  wasti'uly  gratifying  to  observe  that,  in  many  classes 
of  cattle,  sheeii,  and  liorses,  Xew  IIam])shirc  presented 
s[»ecimens  almost  if  not  (|uite  une([ualed. 

The  jiress  of  the  State  has  shown  increased  interest  in 
agricultural  matters  during  the  last  y^'ar,  and  I  cannot  too 
highly  commend  that  enterprise  and  intelligence  which  has 
pu]»i)lied  our  agricultni'al  readers  with  well-consi(h'i-ed  and 


i.'i 


226  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

l»ractic'al  essay.*  upon  tlioso  brandies  of  agriculture  in 
which  we  are  most  interested.  I  trust  these  efforts  will  he 
<lulv  ajtiireciated. 

Of  our  manufactures,  althouirh  still  in  their  infancv, 
we  have  everv  reason  to  he  proud.  The  growth  of  towns 
and  villages  along  our  streams  still  continues  with  increas- 
ing activitv,  and  there  can  he  no  douht  that  the  large 
amount  of  water  })ower  now  Iving  idle  will  one  dav  l)e  as 
well  occupied  as  that  which  is  now  a  source  of  so  nuu-h 
wealth  and  prosperity.  We  have  an  ahundant  water 
power  still  remaining,  to  the  occuiiancy  of  which  T  would 
invoke  the  attention  of  enter}irise  and  caj^ital. 

The  mineral  resources  of  the  Stale  arc,  at  this  time,  at- 
tracting an  unusual  degree  of  attention,  and  the  increasing 
interest  manifested  in  them  hv  cajdtalists  and  practical 
miners,  w  ith  the  very  flattering  results  of  their  investiga- 
tions, give  fair  promise  that  they  may  become  a  source  of 
l>rotit  ami  I'cxenue.  It  is  gratifying  to  know  that  while 
the  rcsourrt's  and  attractions  of  our  State  are  more  intelli- 
gently regardi'd  al)roa(h  they  are  hecoming  better  apprc- 
<-iatcd  at  home.  If  the  lal)or  and  enterprise  of  those  who 
(.'Uiigi-ate  were  a]i}»lied  to  developing  home  resources,  the 
average  reward  would  be  as  rich  as  that  (obtained  abroad, 
and  the  State  would  be  mucli  inlpro^■ed  in  all  its  relations. 

Aiilticri/I'IRAI,    cuLl.i;(;i-:. 

()ur  attention  has  been  i'e}ieate(Uy  called  to  tlie  oi'gaii- 
i/atioii  of  an  agricultural  college,  the  means  for  which 
havi'  bi'C'ii  pro\ided  through  the  wise  munificence  of  Con- 
gres>.  tor  education  in  this  most  important  branch  of 
knowledge.  At'tei'  <hu'  reflection.  an<l  liaN'ing  taken  time 
\nr  iiii|iiii'y  and  consultation  \vitli  eminent  gentlemen  of 
our  own  and  other  States,  I  am  i)re[iare<l  to  commend  to 
your  coiisidi'i-ation  a  definite  plan  of  action. 

'JMic  act  of  Congress  granting  public  lands  tor  tlic  }Mir- 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  227 

pose  will  expire,  by  limitation,  on  the  second  day  of  July, 
18f)7.  Immediate  legislation  will  therefore  be  required  to 
avail  ourselves  of  its  provisions.  Tlie  State  has  received 
the  script  for  150,000  acres,  valued  now  at  a  little  less 
than  sixty  cents  an  acre,  and  not  likely  to  increase  in 
worth  for  a  considerable  time,  nor  is  it  prol)able  tliat  tlie 
aggregate  receipts  can  in  any  event  exceed  $100,000. 
With  this  sum  it  would  be  obviously  impossible  to  found 
an  independent  college,  with  its  professors  and  lil)raries, 
with  its  l)uildings  and  recpiisite  apparatus,  snch  as  would 
do  honor  to  tlie  State,  and  l)e  of  real  benefit  to  the  sons 
of  its  citizens. 

It  would  have  to  be  supported  by  continual  a})pro}>ria- 
tions,  and  would  most  certainly  be  an  onerous  burden 
upon  the  tax-payers.  From  this  and  other  considerations 
I  am  led  to  the  opinion  that  it  should  be  connected  with 
some  other  institution.  It  has  been  suggested  that  if  or- 
ganized in  union  witli  some  of  our  more  vigorous  acade- 
mies, it  would  be  brought  nearer  to  the  people,  and  would 
thereby  the  better  command  public  confidence.  But 
even  if  there  were  no  danger  that  contending  interests  ()f 
the  many  schools  of  this  grade  might  [•rejudice  such  de- 
sign, liowever  well  executed,  the  terms  of  the  act  itself 
would  seem  to  settle  this  })oint.  Its  purpose,  as  defined  in 
so  many  words,  is  to  establish  "a  college  where  the  lead- 
ing ol))ect  shall  be,  without  excluding  other  sc-ientific  and 
classical  studies,  and  including  military  tactics,  to  teach 
such  branches  of  learning  as  are  related  to  agriculture, 
the  mechanical  arts,'"  etc.,  etc. 

The  offer  of  Congress  having  been  accepted  by  the 
legislature,  its  intention  must  be  carried  out  in  spirit  and 
letter.  As  a  <-(JJ.(y(',  then,  either  on  an  independent  foun- 
dation or  in  coiniection  with  another,  \ve  must  acce[)t  the 
offer. 

As  to  ir/n'i-h  college,  there  can  fortunately  1)e  no  (pies- 


228  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tion,  since  we  liave  but  one,  deservedly  the  pride  of  Xew 
Hani}»sliire,  both  in  its  past  renown  and  its  present  excel- 
lent and  eneriretic  management.  Last  year  an  offer  of 
additional  funds  was  before  us, —  that  made  by  the  late 
lamented  Hon.  David  Culver.  But  the  will  by  which  the 
generous  donor  desired  to  have  his  intentions  carried  out 
is  in  litigation :  and  in  any  event  the  sum  realized  from 
it  will  be  less  than  was  at  first  supposed.  If,  however,  the 
State,  disregarding  the  provisions  of  that  will,  should  not 
see  lit  to  found  a  college  at  Lyme,  whatever  benetit  is  de- 
rived from  the  bequest  will  revert  to  Dartmouth  College 
for  the  }»urpose  of  establishing  an  agricultural  department 
there.  Uniting  this  possible  advantage  with  others  which 
are  obvious,  we  have  a  strong  argument  in  favor  of  estab- 
lishing the  institution  at  Dartmouth.  Distinguished  pro- 
fessors, extensive  cabinets  of  mineralogy  and  geology, 
chemical  and  philosoi)hical  laboratories  and  apparatus, 
such  as  could  not  be  acquired  without  much  time  and 
more  than  double  the  amount  at  our  disposal,  are  already 
there. 

It  has  been  said  that  farmers  will  not  send  their  sons  to 
the  college,  where  tliey  may  be  subjected  to  unfavorable 
comjiarisons  with  the  students  in  the  classical  departments  ; 
but  the  experience  of  the  medical  and  scientitic  schools 
is  a  sufficient  reply  to  this :  and  I  am  persuaded  that  it 
would  have  the  hajipiest  effect  in  endearing  that  whole 
institution  to  the  hearts  of  tlie  peojile,  infusing  the  vigor 
and  life-blood  of  the  sons  of  the  hills  into  its  ancient 
veins,  while  from  it  in  return  something  of  the  learning 
and  grace  of  the  schools  will  Ije  carried  into  the  Ikjuics  of 
the  farmers  and  mechanics  of  the  ^tate. 

I  regard  it  as  very  important  that  we  sliuuld  have  a 
iiourd  of  agriculture  organized  for  the  purpose  of  direct- 
ing and  encouraging  agricultural  enterprise  in  the  State, 
and  to  gather  up  and  preserve  the  recorded  ex})erience 


SECOND    INAUOTRAL    ADDRESS.  220 

of  our  farmers.  The  trustees  of  the  a<i:ricultural  colleire 
might  constitute  such  a  board,  witli  a  secretary  elected  by 
themselves,  to  whose  hands  might  1)e  assigned  the  actual 
work  of  gathering  such  experience,  in  suitable  form,  for 
publication.  The  appointment  of  two  jirofessors  in  this 
department  with  those  connected  with  the  present  college, 
would  be  sutRcient.  These  sh(»uld  be  practical  as  well  as 
theoretical  agriculturists  ;  and  it  should  be  their  <luty  not 
only  to  direct  the  mode  of  instruction  in  scliool,  but  they 
should  also  be  rc(piired  to  examine  the  condition  of  agri- 
culture in  the  State  during  the  recess,  and  record  the  re- 
sult of  their  ()l)servations,  and  to  deliver  lectures  upoii 
agriculture  and  mechanic  arts  in  various  sections  of  the 
State.  In  this  way  the  agricultural  resources  and  modes 
of  farming  of  every  county  may  be  lai<l,  from  time  to  time, 
before  our  }»eople  for  their  instruction  and  guidance. 

The  agricultural  term  could  well  commence  in  ( )ctober 
and  end  in  May,  so  that  the  students,  during  the  summer, 
could  carry  into  practical  eti'ect  upon  farms  at  home  the 
theories  tliey  had  accpiired  at  school. 

A  model  or  experimental  farm,  large  enouo-li  to  carry 
out  in  full  tlie  process  of  seientitic  theory,  would  endirace 
of  necessity  such  a  wide  range  of  sul)jects.  and  involve  sc' 
large  an  aimual  expenditure,  that  I  do  not  now  deem  its 
purchase  advisa1)le.  Several  acres,  liowe\'er,  for  trial  and 
pui'poses  of  illustration,  for  the  propagation  of  the  vari- 
ous grasses,  and  for  projter  instruction  in  the  l>otanica! 
branches,  would  be  desirable,  and  might  be  rendered  self- 
supporting.  The  trustees  of  Dartmouth  College  have  lU' 
<lesire  that  such  disposition  l)e  made  of  the  national 
grant,  uidess  it  shall  seem  t(»  the  legislature  to  be  condu- 
cive to  the  highest  interests  of  all  concerned  :  but  if  sud. 
a  conclusion  can  be  reached,  it  is  believed  that  arrange- 
ments can  be  perfected  which  will  not  only  }ii-ove  en- 
tirely satisfactory,  but  will  relieve  the  State  of  all  expense 
on  account  of  an  agricultural  de[iartment. 


230  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    .SMYTH, 

An  outline  of  a  probable  arraiiireiiieiit,  prepared  at  my 
6^11  iTirest ion,  will  be  submitted  to  vour  consideration  in  due 
Koason,  as  a  basis  for  legislative  deliberation  and  action; 
and  I  can  but  believe  that  some  such  plan  will  commend 
itself  to  your  wisdom.  I  am  satisfied  that  in  this  way 
scientific  atcriculture  can  be  instilled  into  the  minds  of  our 
youth  and  spread  abroad  amono;  the  ])eople;  and  that  at 
the  same  time  those  admirable  rules  of  farming  which 
have  been  derived  from  long  experience  may  be  definitely 
laid  down,  and  connected  with  the  results  of  seientific  re- 
search, for  the  mutual  benefit  of  the  jiractical  W(^i-kman 
and  scientific  exj>loi'er. 

KIUrATION. 

Tiicre  is  no  subject  which  more  dcciily  concerns  the 
welfare  of  the  ?^tate  than  that  of  the  means  by  which  the 
children  of  thepeoi>le  are  to  be  educated.  With  that  wis- 
dom whieh  distinguislied  them  in  other  matters,  the 
founders  of  the  commonwealth  gave  deserved  prominence 
to  this  topic.  Xot  content  to  leave  it  to  the  exigencies  of 
future  legislation,  they  took  care  to  insert  the  idea  in  the 
fundamental  law.  After  recognizing  the  fact  tliat  "  knowl- 
edge and  learning  are  essential  to  the  preservation  of  a 
free  government,""  they  say,  "  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  legis- 
hitors  and  magistrates  in  all  future  jjcriods  of  this  (-rovern- 
luciit,  to  cherish  the  interests  (jf  litei'ature  and  the  sciences 
and  all  seminaries  and  public  schools:  to  encourage  pub- 
lic and  private  institutions,  by  rewards  and  immunities, 
foi'  the  ]ironiotion  of  agriculture,  arts,  sciences,""  etc. 
AN'hilc  I  trust  that  wc  need  no  prompting  as  to  the 
nature  and  extent  of  our  obligations  in  this  respect,  it  is 
v\ell  to  recur  to  this  vei-y  decidi'd  opinion  of  the  fathers, 
thus  [tluccd  on  i'cc()i-d  in  the  most  solemn  and  formal 
manner. 

Tiie  withdrawal  of  the  literary  fund,  heretofore  deri\ed 
ti-oui  the  taxati(jn  of  tlu'  State  banks,  and  now  lost  in  con- 


Si:C0NI>    INAL(irHAl-    .\1)1»UHS.S.  231 

HoqueiK'c  of  tlieir  conversion  into  national  bankini::  insti- 
tutions, renders  some  legislation  necessarv  to  supjtlv  the 
(leficiency  thus  created. 

The  great  advance  in  prices  has  likewise  had  its  detri- 
mental ettect  ui»on  our  schools,  and  I  submit  to  vour  con- 
sideration whether  the  tax  provided  tor  in  chapter  7^!  of 
tlu'  Compiled  Statutes  should  not  be  increased. 

The  svstein  of  county  school  commissioners,  whatever 
may  have  i)een  its  former  efficiency,  seems  to  have  out- 
lived its  nsefulness,  and  ought  to  be  suiierseded  by  some- 
thing more  vital  and  efficient.  The  board  of  education 
occu})ies  a  position  of  great  importance,  but  recent  legis- 
lation seems  to  have  been  based  ujion  the  idea  that  the 
work  of  the  county  connnissioners  is  of  little  practical 
\-ahie,  and  would  not  justify  great  expenditure,  i^ither 
this  field  should  be  occn]»ied  by  some  more  active  and 
energetic  agency,  sustained  by  \\ise  laws,  or  more  life  and 
usefulness  should  be  infused  into  the  old  system, 

liAXKS. 

'^riie  t'onversion  of  our  b;iid<;s  of  discount  into  national 
banking  associations  remo\es  them  beyond  the  control  of 
State  legislation.  Some  pi'ovision  is  re([uired,  howi'\'er, 
ill  regar<l  to  the  taxation  ol'  the  stock,  to  cari-y  out  the 
provision  of  ilie  act  of  Coiiu'ress  upon  that  subject. 

We  ha\'e  >t\]]  remaining  within  the  State  twenty-nine 
saxings  l)aid<s,  wiiose  agu-regatc  (leposits  aiuount  to  nearly 
eiu'ht  millions  of  dollars,  and  o\-er  these  the  super\ision 
of"  the  bank  commissioners  should  be  continued.  They 
ai"e  all  belicN'ed  to  be  in  a  sound  and  healthy  condition, 
and  to  enjoy  a  high  degree  ot'  public  contidence.  I 
am  not  aware  that  any  lU'positor  in  the  savings  banks 
ol'  this  Stati'  has  e\er  experi^MUHMJ  a  loss  thi'ough  the  mis- 
nianagement  or  dishon^'sty  ot'  any  officer  ot'  these  institu- 
tittns.      It  is  iliflicult  to  conceive  ot'  a   hiu'her  coniiilinient 


232  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

that  could  be  paid  them.     Xo  new  legishition  hi  regard 
to  them  is  re( quired. 

STATE    LIBRARY. 

There  is  necessity  for  the  adojttion  of  some  further 
measures  for  the  care  and  preservation  of  the  State 
Hbi-arv.  Its  vahie  has  been  very  much  impaired  In'  un- 
guarded and  iiKhscriminate  access  to  its  contents,  and  the 
loaning  of  books  without  pro}ter  security  for  their  return. 
In  consct[uence,  many  ^■olumes  liave  not  been  returned, 
and  probably  never  will  l»e.  Th<^  adoittion  of  some  suit- 
able system  would  remedy  this  evil,  and  preserve,  in  the 
commodious  rooms  now  provided  for  it,  this  valuable 
property  to  the  State.  Tlie  librarian  sliould  be  made 
licrsonally  responsilde  for  every  book  under  his  care,  and 
no  volume  should  l»e  allowed  to  l»e  removed  from  the 
Cajiitol. 

PROVINCIAL     RECORDS. 

I  deem  it  my  duty  to  direct  your  attention  to  the  present 
condition  of  our  provincial  records  for  the  period  l)etween 
1680,  when  Xew  Hampshire  became  a  separate  royal 
Province,  to  the  year  1775,  wlien  her  }»eople  ado[>ted  a 
State  govennuent. 

These  records  are  of  great  imjiortaiice.  Among  other 
things  they  contain  a  large  }iortion  of  the  town  grants, 
the  provincial  laws,  and  all  measures  taken  by  the  people 
of  Xew  Ilampsbii'e  in  the  pi'oscentioii  of  the  French  and 
Indian  wars.  ^'et.  \aluable  as  they  are.  they  ha\'e  never 
been  put  in  a  condition  to  render  them  useful,  or  insure 
their  presei'vation.  A  part  of  them  are  in  Ijound  \'olmnc> 
and  a  pai-r  upon  loose  sheets,  and  tluy  ni'c  all  in  manu- 
script, much  of  which  it  is  ditticult  to  decipher.  The\- 
ai'e  greatly  scattered,  also,  some  poi'tious  being  fouml 
in  the  ofHec  dt'  the  seci'etary  of  the  state,  some  in  the 
ar<-iiives  ot'  the  Histoi'ical  Society,  and  other  parts  anionu' 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  233 

the  court  })a[)er8  in  ditteivnt  counties  and  elsewhere.  The 
work  of  arrungiuii'  and  indexhiii:  these,  eoninienced  some 
years  ago  by  the  late  Jolm  Farmer,  Pisq..  at  the  instanee 
of  the  legislature,  should  be  continued:  and  when  pr(j[i- 
erly  prepared,  they  should  ]»e  [trinted.  and  thus  rendered 
of  easy  access. 

An  examination  of  the  last  two  x'olumes  of  the  New 
Hampshire  I fistorical  Society's  collections,  tlie  expense  of 
whii'h  was  l)orne  in  part  by  appro}»riation  made  by  former 
legislatures,  will  show  the  desirableness  and  importance 
of  the  work  proposed,  —  containing  as  they  do  the  rec- 
ords of  the  Committee  of  Safety,  during  the  whole 
period  of  the  Revolution,  and  provincial  records,  court 
papers,  and  the   Province  Laws   from  1(380  to  1692. 

Much  credit  is  due  to  the  ofticers  of  the  society,  and 
especially  to  its  corresjionding  secretary,  the  Kev.  Dr. 
Nathaniel  Bouton,  for  the  patient  labor  gratuitously  l)e- 
stowed  on  this  valuable  work.  In  prosecuting  to  com- 
pletion the  enterprise  thus  auspicioush"  commenced,  New 
Hampshire  would  but  be  following  the  example  already 
set  her  by  other  States. 

REVISION    OF    THE    STATUTES. 

In  compliance  with  a  resolution  of  the  last  sessir>n  of 
the  legislature,  a  commission,  consisting  of  ex-Judges 
Bell,  Fowler,  and  Sawyer,  has  1)een  appointed  to  codifv 
and  revise  the  statutes,  and  is  now  engaged  in  its  arduous 
and  responsil»le  work.  It  will  be  necessary  for  the  legis- 
lature to  authorize  the  commission  to  }iriiit  their  report, 
when  conqtleted,  in  order  that  it  may  be  considered  ani.l 
acted   upon   at  the  next  session. 

Di(;i:ST    (IF    NEW     IIAMl'SHIRE    LAW    r.Kl'uRTS. 

l>y  a  resolution  of  the  last  legislature,  the  governC'!' 
was  authorized  to  contract  with  I  Ton.  C.  \i.  Morrison  for 
three  hundreil  co[)ies  of  his  ■■  l)igest  of  the  Xew  Ilampshire 


234  IJFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

Law  Reports"  for  tlie  use  of  the  State.  I  have  received 
from  Mr.  ^[orrisoll  a  proposition  to  furnish  the  requisite 
number  for  §7.50  a  vohnne,  wliich,  at  the  present  cost  of 
paper  and  printing,  I  liave  no  doubt  is  a  reasonable  price; 
Imt,  as  it  seemed  to  exceed  the  expectation,  and  as  no 
specitic  apitro}»riation  was  made  for  tliat  purpose,  I  have 
tliouiJi:ht  proper  to  delay  the  purchase,  for  your  further 
consideration. 

XAVKiAlM.E    WATERS. 

Comjilaint  is  made,  from  sources  worthy  of  attention^ 
that  the  naviga])le  waters  of  i^ake  Winnipiseogee  are 
unwarrantably  interfered  with  by  persons  or  corporations 
of  another  jurisdiction,  to  the  serious  detriment  of  Xew 
nam})shire  interests  and  industry. 

It  cannot  be  sujiposcd  that  it  was  e\'er  the  intention  of 
the  letrislature  to  |)lace  any  portion  of  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  State  tnider  the  control  of  foreign  corpora- 
tions, for  the  sole  l)eJietit  of  interests  within  another  State  : 
and  if,  by  any  inadvertence,  or  under  cover  of  other  osten- 
sil)le  purpose,  such  povrers  have  l)een  sought  and  granted, 
it  becomes  at  once  the  duty  of  the  legislature  to  resume 
and  exercise  its  fidl  power  over  the  whole  subject.  Many 
ot'  our  most  valual.)le  industries  are  de[ien(lent  upon  the 
waters  of  the  lake  for  successful  ]n'osecution.  I  need  not 
ai'gue  to  y<^u  the  im}»ortant  nature  of  tliis  subject,  nor  the 
elements  of  Wealth  and  power  involved  in  its  considera- 
tion :  but  you  will  readily  see  that  whatever  privileges  of 
this  kind  belong  to  us  slioubl  be  fostered  and  watched 
with  jealous  care.  Whatever  right>  may  be  granted  to 
t'oreign  jiarties  to  huild  artiticial  structures  at  the  outlet 
of  tlic  lake,  tiiey  should  not  be  allowed  to  imerfere  with 
the  develoiuiient  of  our  interna!  resources.  I  trust,  there- 
fori'.  that  you  will  gi\e  an  early  heai'ing,  through  tlie 
appropriate  <-omniittee,  upon  x\i\>  subject,  and,  if  it  shall 
ai']iear  that  these   conijilaints  ai*e  well  founded,  that  you 


SECOND  inai"(u;kai<  addrkss.  235 

will  Jipi>ly  at  once  siu-li  cftc'ctiial  remedy  as  may  be  in 
your  power. 

The  ij:;rowing"  importance  ot"  the  waters  of  the  lake  tor 
navitrable  purposes  is  I'ondered  more  and  more  manifest 
each  succeeding  year,  while  the  constantly  swellini!:  tide 
of  summer  travel  which  annually  Hoods  the  wild  and  ro- 
mantic rcijions  of  northern  New  namj)shire,  auij^inentinii!; 
its  wealth  and  stimulatin<;-  its  industi'ies,  should  induce  us 
to  carefully  ii'uard  and  retain  under  our  absolute  control 
this  not  only  ini[K)rtant  link  in  the  thoroughfare  by  which 
that  section  may  l)e  reached,  but  also  most  attractive  fea- 
ture in  that  incomjtarable  st-encry  Avhich  has  given  to  our 
State  the  api)el]ati()n  of  the  Switzerland  of  America. 

At  the  same  time  that  your  action  guards  the  \alual»le 
prix'ik'ges  along  the  rivers  which  drain  this  lake, —  ju'ix'i- 
leges  unsurpassed  on  any  similar  length  of  river, —  it  will 
preserve  the  best  features  of  our  landsca}>e  in  their  primi- 
tive beauty.  I  am  iu)t  indifferent  to  the  im])oi"tance  of 
jiroper  t'lu'ouragement  to  the  investment  of  foreign  ca|»i- 
tal  within  our  borders,  when  it  is  to  be  em]»loyed  in  the 
develo]»meiit  of  oui"  own  iiulustry,  and  would  fax'or  and 
invite  such  enterprises  by  the  nu)st  liberal  legislation  :  but 
when  the  mitural  powers  we  have  are  turned  against  us, 
and  the  rights  granted  b_v  a  Xew  llampshii'e  U'gislature 
are  used  to  take  power  out  of  the  State,  and  absolutely 
to  ]irevent  the  use  and  impro\'ement  of  our  streams  by 
our  own  citizens,  it  is  time  to  examine  the  subject  with 
care,  and  to  act  with  Avisdom. 

l{AlLltn.\l»S. 
It  has  become  the  settled  policy  of  the  State  to  eiicour- 
aii:e  the  construction  of  railroads  by  all  I'easouable  grants, 
with  the  belief  that  the  franchise  thus  bestowed  is  a  direct 
]uil)lic  benetit.  That  freiiueut  and  easy  intercourse  facil- 
itates business  aiul  develops  natural  resources,  is  a  fact  too 


236  LIFE    OF    FRKDERICK    SMYTH. 

evident  to  need  argument.  It  is  true  that  many  of  the 
lines  of  road  huilt  in  New  Hani[»shire  Avere  constructed 
at  a  serious  loss  to  the  original  stockholders,  the  prin- 
cijdes  on  which  such  roads  could  be  safely  huilt  not  hav- 
ing been  fully  (levelo])ed.  But  individual  loss  has  been 
|»ul>lic  gain,  and  facilities  for  travel  and  attainable  mar- 
kets more  than  compensated  for  these  losses.  The 
result  has.  therefore,  justilied  the  wisdom  of  ]»ast  legisla- 
tures; and  they  have  not  only  granted  extensive  privi- 
leges to  parties  desiring  to  build,  but  have  gone  much 
farther,  in  allowing  the  lease  or  i)urchase  of  such  lines  as 
could  l>e  run  witli  greater  economy  under  one  manage- 
ment. AVhile  the  theory  upon  which  this  has  been  done 
is  unquestionably  correct,  it  sliould  be  ascertained  whether 
the  argument  ])v  which  such  concessions  were  urged  has 
been  carried  to  its  logical  conclusion. 

Under  consoli(Uited  management  the  stockholders  ought 
to  receive  better  returns,  and  the  public  be  accommo- 
dated at  a  lower  rate.  C'omjietition,  which  is  a  natural 
safeguard  of  the  ]>ul»lic  interest  and  convenience,  has  been 
destroyed,  an<l  the  people  have  no  remedy  excejtt  in  the 
honor  of  the  parties  to  whom  vou  have  o;ranted  ris^hts  of 
corporation,  with  the  exjtress  understanding  that  they 
were  never  to  l)e  exercised  adversely  to  the  public  wel- 
fare, ov  in  that  power  which  remains  to  you,  as  rei)resent- 
atives  of  the  peojile.  1  am  sure  it  will  be  your  pleasure, 
as  it  is  manifestly  your  duty,  to  carefully  consider  all 
alleged  infractions  of  public  rights  by  these,  or  other  cor- 
)>orate  powers,  and  ap]ily  such  judicious  remedies  as  jus- 
tic(.'  may  rei|uii'c. 

STATK    CIIAIUTIKS. 

The  iippropi'iatioiis  tor  the  support  of  beneficiaries 
from  tlii>  State  at  the  i'erkins  Institution  for  the  IJlind 
at    South    iioston.    the   Massachusetts  School   for   bliotic 


SECOND    INAUUUKAli    ADDRESS.  237 

and  Feeble  Minded  Persons,  and  tlie  Asylum  tor  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb,  at  Hartford,  have  beuii  exhausted.  I 
regret  to  say  that  I  have  been  eom[)elled  to  deny  ai)i)liea- 
tions  whieh  had  good  elaim  to  a  favorable  answer,  on  ac- 
count of  the  insutticieney  of  the  sum  appropriated.  Tlie 
State  will  not  fail  to  recognize  the  claim  of  these  unfor- 
tunate classes  upon  her  care  and  sym})athy,  and  you  will, 
r  am  persuaded,  readily  provide  whatever  may  be  re- 
quired. The  institutions  named  are  among  the  best  in  the 
world,  and  it  is  fortunate  that  their  cliaritable  doors  are 
so  readily  thrown  open  at  our  call. 

ASYLUM    FOR    THE    INSANE. 

From  personal  visits  to  this  institution,  and  from  infor- 
mation obtained  of  the  excellent  superintendent  and  faith- 
ful trustees,  I  am  confident  that  it  continues  in  a  most 
satisfactory  condition.  The  generous  ap})ropriations  here- 
tofore made  in  its  behalf  have  })roved  judicious  and  pro- 
ductive of  great  good.  Xo  unfortunate  class  of  the 
connnunity  appeal  more  strongly  to  our  sympathy  and 
generosity  than  the  insane.  The  action  of  the  State,  in 
establishing  and  sustaining  the  asylum,  has  not  only  met 
the  general  a[)]irobation  of  tlie  people,  but  has  been  nobly 
seconded,  from  time  to  time,  by  beiievoU'iit  individuals. 
During  the  year  the  late  Moody  Kent,  Ks(|.,  has  left  to 
the  asylum  a  most  muniticent  legacy,  estimated  at  about 
.^140,000.  The  income  of  this  large  sum  will  afibrd  the 
trustees  ample  means  for  su[)plying  the  institution  with 
many  improvements  and  s}»eeiti('  curative  ajipliances  long 
needed.  The  asylum  has  now  aceommodations  for  218 
patients,  while  on  the  lirst  of  .\hiy  last  it  contained  28(!. 
and  is  constantly  receiving  additional  applications  for  ad- 
mission. An  early  enlargement  of  the  institution  will  \)v 
re(|uired  to  meet  the  growing  demand  f  >r  its  benefits. 


238  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

HOUSE    OF    REFORMATION. 

I  regret  tf»  iiitbnn  you  that  the  career  of  prosperity 
atteiulinii"  this  institution  from  its  establisliinent,  has  l)een 
iutc-rrujited  during  the  i>ast  winter  by  tlie  partial  destruc- 
tion hy  tire  of  tlie  substantial  building  erected  for  it,  and 
the  total  destruction  of  the  "  iStark  House. "  upon  the 
same  premises,  also  the  property  of  the  t^tate.  The  trus- 
tees, however,  had  wisely  etfected  liberal  insurance  upon 
the  pro[ierty.  and  the  State  has  been  saved  from  any  con- 
siderable loss.  The  l)uilding  was  fortunately  as  nearly 
iire-iiroof  as  jiossible  with  the  sum  exjiended  in  its  con- 
struction, and  was  eonsecpiently  not  a  total  loss,  the  dam- 
age being  something  less  than  the  amount  of  insurance, 
as  would  seem  from  the  fact  that  the  companies  by  whom 
it  was  insured  have  contracted  for  relniilding,  free  from 
exi>ense  to  the  State,  rather  than  ].ay  the  ?20.000  in- 
surance claimed  l)y  the  trustees.  The  work  is  now  in 
progress  and  nearly  completed,  under  the  su}ierintendence 
of  the  insurance  eompanies.  The  pecuniary  loss  to  the 
State  will,  therefore,  be  limited  to  the  damage  to  iiersonal 
]iroperty,  and  the  iiierea>cd  ex[iense  in  nuiintaining  and 
providing  for  the  comfort  and  security  of  the  inmates,  who 
Were  thus  in  mid-winter  driven  from  their  comfortable 
home  to  such  quarters  as  the  trustees  ^\■ere  able  to  extem- 
porize for  them.  Tiie  report  of  the  trustees,  which  will 
be  before  you,  will  fully  ac(piaint  you  with  its  wants  and 
necessities,  for  which  I  trust  prompt  provision  will  be 
made. 

This  institution  has  already  lieeii  of  inestimable  service 
to  the  State,  gathering  with  a  kindly  hand,  tempered  with 
just  I'otraiiit,  those  \vlio  knew  no  jiareiital  care,  and  the 
still  more  unfortunate  who  follow  parental  footstejis  in  an 
infamou>  career  of  crime.  The  I'ecent  troubles  of  our 
counti'v  liiiN'c  increased  the  inunber  of  these  children  of 
ncu'lcct  anil   niistbrtune,  so  that  the  dut\-  at  tirst  under- 


SK(;()NI)    INAl'iirHAL    ADDRKSS. 


239 


taken  hv  the  State  has  rather  iiiereased  tliaii  diininislied. 
It  is  therefore  to  l)e  ho|»e(l  tliat  tlie  torcli  of  the  iiicendi- 
arv  will  not  he  allowed  to  loiiii'  eri|i]ile  or  retard  oui- 
eiiorts  in  this  direetion. 

STATK-l'KISOX. 

The  rei)ort  of  the  warden  of  the  state-[trison,  soon  to 
he  laid  hefore  yon,  ^-ives  a  statement  of  the  tinaneial 
standing  and  general  condition  of  that  institntion,  which 
is  niainlv  satisfaetorv,  althongh  there  are  some  sei'ions 
end)arrassments  eonneeted  with  it,  for  which  the  warden 
cainiot  he  held  res[K)nsihle,  and  over  which  he  has  no 
control. 

The  increased  cost  of  maintaining  the  prison  dnringthe 
past  lew  years  has  not  heen  met  hy  cc^rresponding  renm- 
neration  from  the  lahor  of  the  convicts,  owing  to  the  fact 
that  most  (»f  them  are  employed  under  a  contract  mach' 
four  years  since,  and  which  has  one  year  more  to  run. 
The  })rotit  derived  1)V  the  State  from  the  lahor  of  tliat  por- 
tion of  the  convicts  employed  hy  the  warden  the  })ast 
year  on  prison  work,  is  from  tifty  to  seventy  per  cent 
ahove  that  of  the  lahf)r  hired  out  uiulcr  the  contract. 
Xotwithstaudiug  these  disadvantages,  it  will  he  seen  from 
the  report  that  the  ]irisoii  has  hcen  self-sustaining,  ami 
tlu'  State  is  not  c-allcd  u}ion  for  any  appropriation  in  its 
l.ehalf 

^'oui'  attention  is  called  to  the  fact  that  the  prison  \ard 
is  unnecessarily  incumhered  hy  lumher  and  other  mate- 
rials stored  within  the  walls,  adding  to  the  dangei'  of  tire 
aiul  gi\ing  facilities  t'or  escape  ot' coii\icts.  Although  the 
conti-actoi'  has  a  right,  under  his  agreement,  to  thus 
occupy  a  space  within  thi'  prison  iiiclosure,  it  ought  not 
to  he  so  construed  as  to  defeat  the  ol)vious  purposes  of  the 
pris(ui.  As.  under  the  circumstances,  the  executi\e  has 
no  jiowei'  to  interfere,  I  call  your  att(_'ntion  to  the  suhject 
as  renuirinu'  inwstiii'ation. 


240  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

An  act  of  the  last  legislature  authorized  the  appoint- 
ment of  an  agent,  who  should  have  the  care  of  discharged 
convicts,  so  far  as  any  assistance  or  advice  might  be  re- 
quired in  their  destitute  condition.  That  duty,  however, 
has  heen  satisfactorily  performed  by  the  warden  and  other 
ofticers  of  the  prison,  and  I  have  not  found  it  necessary 
to  make  the  appointment  contemplated.  Indeed,  the  offi- 
cers of  the  prison,  when  seconded  in  their  efforts  by  the 
executive,  can,  I  am  persuaded,  exercise  a  better  influence 
over  the  discharged  convicts  than  a  special  agent,  and 
with  no  additional  expense  to  the  State.  The  increase  of 
paid  agents  in  any  of  the  State  departments  should  be 
avoided,  unless  required  from  urgent  necessity. 

It  is  a  proper  subject  of  inquiry  for  you  to  consider,  as 
to  whether  there  may  not  be  improved  modes  of  discipline 
and  measures  of  a  reformatory  nature,  which  can  be  adopted 
in  our  prison.  It  should  also  be  a  duty  to  impress  upon 
every  good  citizen  that  the  most  liberal  encouragement 
should  be  given  to  tliose  discharged  convicts  w^ho  mani- 
fest any  disposition  to  pursue  an  honest  calling.  Disgrace, 
real  or  fancied,  has  driven  man}-  a  man  to  desperate  crime, 
and  the  utter  impossibility  of  getting  honest  employment 
would  of  course  keep  our  prisons  filled.  Tlie  number  of 
j'risoners  in  the  institution  May  1  was  101. 

Tile  }>resent  warden  seems  to  have  labored  zealously 
and  successfully  in  liis  position  for  the  best  interests  of 
tlie  State  and  tlie  weltare  of  those  under  liis  responsil)le 
■  harge. 

RIVER    FISHERIES. 

r  am  ha|i]>y  to  inform  you  that  in  response  to  repeated 
and  urgent  aiqieals,  the  legislature  of  Massachusetts,  at  its 
recent  session,  enacted  a  law  providing  for  the  construc- 
tion of  suital)le  fish-ways  at  Lowell  and  Lawrence,  by 
which  means  it  is  l)elieved  that  the  former  su])ply  of  shad 
and  saliiioii  in  Merrimack  river  may  ultimately  l)e  restored. 


SECOND    INATCiUIlAL    ADDRESS.  241 

The  provisions  of  the  act  are  liberal  and  ani[)le,  and,  if  the 
matter  is  placed  in  the  hands  of  commissioners  of  that 
State  who  are  conn)etent  for  tlie  dnty,  and  desirons  of  the 
accomplishment  of  the  ol>jeet  of  tlie  law,  I  cannot  donbt 
that  complete  success  will  result  from  the  exi)eriment. 
It  will  be  important,  however,  to  continue  the  matter  in 
the  hands  of  com[)etent  commissioners  upon  our  part,  to 
counteract  the  adverse  intluences  that  ma}'  be  expected  to 
0})erate  against  the  enterprise. 

PUBLIC    LANDS. 

I  deem  it  important  that  some  action  should  be  taken 
with  reference  to  an  exploration  and  survey  of  the  })ublic 
lands  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State,  said  to  consist  ot 
about  eighty  thousand  acres.  The  records  of  the  State, 
however,  furnish  little  information  concerninii;  the  precise 
nature  or  extent  of  the  property,  and  it  is  said  to  be  sub- 
ject to  frequent  de[)redations  and  tresjtass,  which  constantly 
impair  its  value. 

It  would  seem  to  be  the  true  }K)licy  in  regard  to  this 
unproductive  |)ro}terty  to  open  it  at  once  for  settlement, 
by  the  construction  of  hiu'hways  or  other  feasil)Jc  modes, 
ainl  to  bring  it  under  the  healthful  intlueuc-es  of  private 
cntcr[irise.  Its  extent,  character,  and  value  should  at 
least  be  ascertained,  so  that  the  interests  of  the  State  in 
the  matter  shall  cleai'ly  be  made  to  appear.  Some  of  these 
lands  are  said  tolu'  valuable  for  agricultural  pur})oscs,  and 
others  are  known  to  have  extensive  tracts  of  tind)cr. 

KKTl  RNKD    VOlvUNTHKUS. 

Since  your  last  adjournment  the  Xew  Hampshire  troojis 
in  the  sci'vice  of  the  Tnited  States  have  all  been  mustered 
out,  aiul  our  fellow-citizens,  (tur  friends  and  associates, 
who  s]irang  to  arms  at  the  call  of  the  country,  and  wlio 
sui'vi\-ed  the  dread   ordeal   of  battle,  and  the  irioi'e   tiital 

16 


242  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

dangers  of  the  camp,  liave  returned  quietly  to  their  ac- 
customed pursuits,  and  liave  been  joyfully  welcomed  in  a 
thousand  happy  homes.  It  is  a  matter  of  congratulation 
and  suri»rise  that  soldierly  qualities,  unsurpassed  in  liis- 
tory,  were  so  readih'  assumed  and  so  easily  laid  aside. 
In  other  countries  the  disbanding  of  great  armies  has  been 
followed  often  by  scenes  of  violence  and  disorder:  here, 
on  the  contrary,  all  is  })eace  and  harmony  in  all  the  towns 
and  villages  of  our  industrious  commonwealth.  The  sol- 
dier is  only  too  glad  to  resume  those  habits  of  steady 
ajtplieation  and  attention  to  business  which  have  enabled 
New  I[am})shire  to  maintain  a  credit  unimpaired,  and  a 
prosperity  second  to  none  among  the  States  of  tlie  Union. 
Sueh  facts  are  more  eloquent  and  convincing  arguments 
in  i'avor  of  our  institutions  than  ean  be  conveyed  by  any 
power  of  speech,  and  they  show  that  the  true  safety  of  a 
nation  lies  in  the  virtue  and  intelligence  of  its  people. 

'i'lie  debt  WQ  owe  the  brave  men  who  have  Itorne  our 
Hag  and  vindicated  our  cause  before  the  Avorld  can  ncAer 
l)e  I'ejiaid,  l)Ut  at  least  we  should  evei'  honor  those  who 
remain,  and  sacredly  cherish  the  memoiw  of  the  heroic 
dead. 

I  cannot  refrain  from  renewing  the  sngu'estion  made 
on  a  f)rniei'  occasion,  that  some  jirovision  should  be  made 
by  the  State  for  the  snpjiort  of  tliost'  who  wei'e  entirelv 
disabled  in  the  service,  or  have  since  become  so  bv  reason 
of  wounds  or  exposure,  beyond  the  amount  paid  b\'  the 
(Jciifi'al  ( biN'cninient.  '^fhat  such  men.  faithful  throuu'h 
Wounds  and  siclciiess,  to  the  \'ery  door  of  death,  should  be 
now  allowed  to  drag  out  the  days  that  j'emain  to  them  in 
l)cgL;-ai'y  oi-  panjicrisiii,  or  that  they  should  l)e  mad(.'  to  tee! 
that  their  saci'iliccs  are  counted  of  no  woi-th.  is  a  tlau'rant 
injustice,  and  a  disiiTace  which  I  am  sui'e  Ne\\'  Ilampshii'e 
can  nt'N'ci-  iHTiiiii.  The  <  ieiiei'al  (  M)\-ernnient has  ]U'oA-i(led 
for  the  est;ib|i<hnieiit  of  a  national  as\-luni  foi-  the  benetit  of 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDKESS.  243 

the  totally  disabled  of  these  most  worthy  but  unfortunate 
heroes;  but  until  this  institution  shall  be  orsranized  and 
ready  to  impart  its  benefits,  some  temporary  provision 
must  be  made  by  the  State  for  their  comfort  and  support. 
There  is  reason  to  hope  that  some  part  of  the  generous 
munificence  of  the  Government  may  be  so  dispensed  as  to 
reach  a  portion  of  this  class  in  their  own  homes,  and  by 
their  own  firesides. 

Provision  for  the  preservation  of  the  discharge  papers 
and  other  documents  issued  to  the  soldiers  by  the  Govern- 
ment, is  a  duty  which  ought  no  longer  to  be  disregarded. 
These  papers  may  liecome  of  great  value  to  soldiers  and 
tlieir  heirs.  This  may  be  done  by  the  establishment  of  a 
registry  for  the  record  of  all  such  documents,  certified 
copies  of  which  should  be  made  legal  e^'idence  in  all  cases 
of  the  loss  of  the  original ;  or  it  may  be  made  the  duty 
of  some  State  officer  to  receive,  record,  and  preserve  in 
his  office,  all  documents  of  this  character  which  may  be 
presented  to  him  for  that  purpose. 

I  commend  this  subject  to  your  consideration,  and  trust 
some  method  may  l)e  devised  without  delay,  which  will 
answer  this  important  purpose. 

BATTLE-FLAGS. 

On  the  return  of  jieace,  with  its  new  responsil)ilities, 
those  emblems  of  American  nationality  under  which  our 
soldiers  fought  their  way  to  victory,  and  beneath  whose 
folds  they  died,  that  oui-  country  might  live,  have  come 
Ijack  t(»  us.  '^fhe  regimental  flags  of  Xew  Hampshire 
have  all  been  gathered  together  —  the  memorials  of  the 
^'alor  and  devotion  of  her  sons.  What  a  tale  they  could 
tell  of  heroic  ])atriotism,  of  patience  and  courage,  of  agony 
and  distress.  Silent  witnesses  of  that  sti-ife  which  ended 
in  glory  for  the  Kepublic.  they  eome  now  to  remind  us  of 
our  dutv  as  citizens  of  that  eountrv  for  which  our  dearest 


244  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

blood  has  been  shed.  They  call  upon  us  to  be  true  to 
those  great  principles  of  liumanity  which  made  all  men 
equal  on  the  battle-fields  of  freedom.  They  call  u})on  us 
to  be  devoted  to  those  great  doctrines  of  free  government 
which  can  alone  elevate  mankind  to  the  standard  of  a 
Christian  commonwealth.  They  call  upon  us  to  remember 
the  great  free  rallying  cry  of  the  war,  now  that  the  tempt- 
ing and  enervating  hours  of  peace  are  upon  us.  The  les- 
sons which  they  teach  may  never  be  forgotten,  and,  as 
they  are  assigned  each  its  honorable  place  in  our  Capitol, 
may  their  presence  warm  our  hearts  to  their  highest  en- 
deavors, and  stimulate  us  to  the  unflinching  performance 
of  the  high  duty  which  yet  lies  before  us. 

DESERTERS. 

By  an  act  of  Congress,  approved  ^larch  3,  1865,  all 
deserters  from  the  military  and  naval  service,  and  all  per- 
sons who  voluntarily  leave  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United 
States  to  avoid  a  draft  into  such  service,  are  punished  l)y 
forfeiture  of  the  rights  of  citizenship.  As  questions  have 
arisen  in  regard  to  the  effect  of  this  act  upon  the  exercise 
of  the  right  of  suffrage  by  deserters,  I  deem  it  important 
that  you  should  remove  such  dcnibt  by  appropriate  legis- 
lation. 

Tlie  duties  of  the  citizen  and  of  the  Government  are 
recijirocal —  etpial  rights,  protection  in  the  legitimate  pur- 
suits of  life,  a  just  and  reasonable  freedom  at  home,  and 
immunity  from  injury  or  insult  abroad,  are  among  the 
benefits  which  a  citizen  of  the  rnited  States  exjieets  to 
receive  from  his  Government;  but  he  owes,  in  return,  a 
sacrecl  duty  in  its  defense,  alike  against  internal  traitors 
or  foreign  i'ovf^:  and  if,  in  the  hour  \\hen  his  services  are 
most  needed,  he  takes  shelter  under  a  foreign  flag,  and 
basely  flees  from  the  call  of  duty,  who  can  say  that  he  has 
not  violated  the  contract,  and  lias  )i(j  Ioniser  a  claim  to 


SECOND    INAUGURAL    ADDRESS.  245 

exercise  the  rights  of  citizenship  or  of  suffrage  ?  Whether 
such  desertion  took  place  before  or  after  enrollment,  it 
matters  little;  the  intent  was  the  same,  and  the  crime  to 
be  equally  condemned. 

Hitherto  the  course  of  our  governing  machinery  has 
been  so  even  and  free  from  apparent  dangers,  that  we  had 
almost  forgotten  that  "  eternal  vigilance  is  the  price  of 
liberty."  Believing  that  we  cannot  too  carefully  guard 
our  institutions  from  the  influence  of  those  who  have 
once  cons[>ired  against  them,  and  that  the  purity  of  the 
ballot  cannot  be  too  jealously  preserved,  I  commend  to 
your  consideration  the  question  whetlier  those  deserters 
who  liave  returned  to  their  homes  since  the  war  closed, 
and  those  who  came  back  under  the  conditions  of  the 
President's  proclamation,  issued  in  pursuance  of  the  act  of 
March  3,  1865,  and  so  avoided  the  penalty  of  the  law, 
sliould  not  still  be  treated  as  aliens  of  the  State  to  which 
they  proved  false  in  the  time  of  trial.  The  great  majority 
of  the  people  of  ISTew^  Hampshire  have  not  sought  to 
escape  the  responsibilities  of  citizenship,  but  have  borne 
arms  and  taxation  with  cheerfulness  in  defense  of  the 
rights  which  they  hold  dear.  With  what  shadow  of  jus- 
tice, then,  can  those  who  fled,  both  from  taxation  and 
danger,  vouie  l)ack  to  an  e(|ual  share  in  those  blessings 
which  the  self-denial  and  endurance  of  others  have  pre- 
served ? 

MILITIA. 

The  military  organization  jirovided  for  by  the  act  of 
1862,  as  modifled  by  the  act  of  1865,  has  been  nearly  com- 
pleted during  the  year,  and  will  soon  be  fllled  to  the 
standard  re(iuired,  namely,  thirty  companies,  comprising 
flfteen  hundred  men. 

Most  of  the  companies  have  l>een  uniformed,  armed, 
and  equipped.  The  arms  have  l)een  borrowed  of  the 
General  (iovernment,  and  the  uniforms  (except  the  caps) 


246  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

obtained  from  the  same  source,  to  be  settled  for  by  an 
offset  of  suspended  claims  against  the  Government,  when 
allowed.  In  some  sections  of  the  State  volunteering  has 
not  been  as  active  as  was  desirable,  and  several  counties 
are  now  unrepresented  in  the  organization.  I  felt  a  great 
reluctance,  however,  to  resorting  to  a  draft,  as  authorized 
by  the  act,  which  was  not  only  repugnant  to  the  general 
sentiment  and  feelings  of  the  community  in  time  of  peace, 
but  hardly  calculated,  if  resorted  to,  to  promote  the  effi- 
ciency of  a  system  enforced  by  compulsion.  I  therefore 
accepted  of  companies  volunteering  in  some  counties  in 
excess  of  their  quota,  to  supply  the  deficiency  existing  in 
others,  as  was  authorized  by  the  law. 

The  companies  which  have  been  organized  are  mainly 
composed  of  returned  soldiers,  and  principally  officered  by 
them;  and  though  but  recently  called  into  existence,  they 
possess  but  few,  if  any,  of  the  characteristics  of  "  raw 
militia ;  *'  but  if  unforeseen  events  should  call  them  into 
service,  they  will  prove  themselves  the  brave  and  trained 
veterans  they  really  are. 

Some  additional  legislation  will  be  required  to  simplify 
the  present  militia  laws,  and  for  the  protection  and  preser- 
vation of  tlie  uniforms  and  other  property  of  the  State  in 
possession  of  the  companies. 

Tlie  re}>ort  of  the  adjutant-general  will  l)e  found  to  be 
a  (locunR'iit  of  much  interest,  giving  the  minute  details  of 
all  the  affairs  of  this  (le]iartment. 

CONCLUSION. 

I  cannot  close  without  congratulating  you  that  the  great 
question  of  our  country's  unity  and  territorial  integrity  is 
tinally  and  irrcvcrsil)]y  decreed  in  behalf  of  the  continued 
su[ircmacy  of  our  tlag,  and  that  the  great  law  of  universal 
liberty,  which  was  never  without  a  place  in  the  American 
heart,  though  hitherto  an  exile  from  the  statutes  of  the 


SECOND    INAU(iURAI,    ADDRESS.  247 

countrv,  lia.s  been  iiicorpoi'ated  into  our  national  consti- 
tution, and  interwoven  witii  the  laws  of  the  land.  An 
achievement  so  ^ijreat,  so  i::rand,  so  o;lorious,  so  vital  to 
ourselves,  to  })osterity  and  mankind,  wi'uiil;-  from  the  face 
of  doubt  and  death  bv  the  invincible  will,  courag-e,  and 
power  of  our  countrvnien,  cannot  fail  to  till  our  hearts 
with  devout  thaidcfulness  to  Ilini  who  holds  the  destinies 
of  nations  in  Ilis  hand  and  has  iriveu  us  the  victory.  'J'hut 
the  progress  toward  a  restored  ami  harmonious  country 
sliould  be  unattended  by  grave  ditficulties,  was  not  ex- 
pected ;  that  loyal  men  should  ditfer  u[>on  the  details  by 
which  desired  residts  were  to  be  obtaiiied,  was  unavoid- 
able; and  the  earnestness  with  which  convicting  views  have 
l)een  asserted  could  not  well  have  Ijeen  less  forciljle,  when 
all  the  circumstances  of  our  great  contest  are  considered. 
If  our  [trinciples  are  true,  they  will  bear  discussion  and 
0[)position  ;  if  not,  they  deserve  to  fall.  1  am  sure  you 
will  agree  with  uie  that  there  can  be  no  lasting  settlement 
of  the  questions  now  [lending  before  tlu'  national  councils, 
exce[)t  upon  the  broad  [ilatform  of  impartial  and  universal 
justice.  Let  us  hope  that  whatever  remains  to  be  done  to 
give  solidity  and  harmony  to  national  unity,  will  l)e  wisely 
and  speedily  accomplished. 

Senators  an<l  re[»resentatives,  let  us  now  earnestly  a]tply 
ourselves  to  the  task  imposed  on  .us  by  the  pcojile  of  our 
noble  State,  whose  future  is  so  full  of  hope,  relying  for 
\\isdom  and  strength  on  the  Supreme  liuler  of  all,  to 
whom  we  have  just  appealed. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

THE  PRESENT,  THE  FUTURE,  AND  THE  PAST. 

After  the  inauguration  ceremonies  at  the  State  House, 
a  banquet  was  given  at  the  Eagle  Hotel  bj  the  governor 
to  otficers  of  the  State  government  and  invited  guests. 
At  the  close,  he  addressed  a  few  words  of  welcome  to 
gentlemen  from  abroad,  alluding  to  the  ties  of  interest 
and  tradition  which  bind  this  State  to  the  good  old  com- 
monwealth of  the  Puritans,  as  well  as  to  the  land  of  Allen 
and  Warner,  of  Collamer  and  Foot.  He  said  that  while 
this  once  ma}'  have  been  a  good  State  to  emigrate  from, 
lie  was  sure  it  was  now  "  a  goodly  land  to  return  to,  to  live 
in,  and  to  die  in.'*  He  was  followed  by  Governor  Bnl- 
lock,  of  Massachusetts,  and  (governor  Dillingham,  of 
A'ermoiit. 

The  military  escort  was  remarkably  soldier-like  and 
imi>oj<iiig.  In  the  ranks  were  many  war  veterans,  who 
were  pleased  to  aid  in  honoring  one  who  had  l)een  their 
friend  when  they  were  enduring  the  hardships  of  tlie 
tield  and  the  hospital.  After  the  performance  of  their 
est'ort  duty,  they  were  reviewed  by  Governor  Smyth  and 
liis  suite  from  the  balcony  of  the  Eagle  Hotel.  The 
troojis  were  then  massed  before  the  balcony,  and,  In*  re- 
(piest  of  the  governor,  were  briefly  but  elofiuently  ad- 
dressed  by  I'l-esideiit  Smith,  of  Dartmouth   CoHege. 

The  message  ^^■hicll  Governor  Smyth  had  delivered  was 
generally  commended  by  the  [tress  of  Xew  Ilamjishire 
and  the  adjacent  States,  and  it  received  the  approval  of 
many  distinguished  jiersons.  Chief  Justice  Chase,  who 
had,  when  seci-etary  of  the  treasury,  paid  great  attention 
to  taxation  and  national  indebtedness,  wrote  the  followiny- 


PREvSENT,    FUTURE,    AND    PAvST,  249 

note,  which  was  a  source  of  peculiar  gratification,  not  less 
from  the  high  position  of  the  writer  than  from  its  very 
cordial  tone. 

Sli'kkmk  Court  ok  the  U.  S., 

Washington,  June  20,  1866. 

To  His  Excellen-cy  Frederick  Smyth  : 

Mtj  Dear  (J-ot'ernor :  I  thank  you  for  sending  me  a  copy 
of  your  message.  It  gave  me  great  pleasure,  as  a  son  of 
I^Tew  Hampshire,  to  read  your  clear  and  interesting  ac- 
count of  her  condition,  resources,  and  generous  patri- 
otism. 

I  was  }iarticularly  pleased  hy  your  protest  against  the 
new  scheme  of  perpetual  and  untaxed  debt.  You  may 
readily  imagine  that  after  all  my  labors,  and  with  so 
great  success,  to  establish  the  princi[)le  of  controllability 
of  the  public  debt  by  making  it  })ayable,  the  six  per 
cent  at  any  time  after  five  and  within  twenty  years,  and 
the  five  per  cent  at  any  time  after  ten  and  within  forty 
years,  it  was  very  painful  to  me  to  see  a  proposition  for  a 
loan  not  refundable  at  all  till  after  fJurf'i  years.  I  can 
uiulerstand  an  argument  for  not  taxing  a  del)t  which  the 
creditor  may  take  up  after  five  or  ten  years,  for  1  can 
see  that  the  country  may  save  more  in  interest  than  it  will 
lose  in  taxes;  but  I  cannot  imagine  an  honest  argument 
for  a  debt  for  thirty  years,  and  exempted  from  bearing 
burdens  t(^  which  other  pro}ierty  may  be  subjected.  1  got 
money,  and  all  that  was  needed,  in  the  worst  times,  on 
short,  controlla])le  loans,  subject  to  national  taxation. 
Surely,  thei'C  is  no  reason  now  to  de^tart  from  the  plan  of 
O-20  six  p(^'r  cents  or  10-40  five  }ier  cents,  when  there  is 
now  no  money  to  be  borrowed,  but  oidy  fioating  debt  to 
be  funded. 

\'ery  faitlit'iilly  yours, 

SALNfoX  P.  CHASE. 


250  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

One  of  the  earliest  acts  of  the  legislature  this  year  was 
in  connection  with  the  fourteenth  amendment  to  the  con- 
stitution, concerning  which  Governor  Smyth,  in  his  mes- 
sage of  June  21.  transmitting  it,  said  :  "  As  Xew  Hamp- 
shire early  and  nol)ly  res[ionded  to  the  call  of  war,  I  trust 
she  will  promptly  and  unanimously  ratify  this  great  re- 
quirement of  peace." 

Governor  Smyth  having  in  his  message  called  attention 
to  the  scattered  condition  of  the  provincial  records,  and 
recommended  that  some  provision  be  made  for  their  pre- 
servation, arrangement,  and  indexing,  the  legislature  au- 
thorized him  to  have  it  done.  He  appointed  the  liev. 
Dr.  Xathaniel  Bouton,  secretary  of  the  Xew  Hampshire 
Historical  Society,  as  State  historian.  That  gentleman, 
though  veneral)le  in  years,  yet  with  most  commendable 
diligence  and  z.eal,  entered  upon  his  work,and  was  enabled 
to  complete  it  in  a  manner  in  every  way  creditable  to 
himself  and  to  the  State  ;  and  soon  after  this  crowning 
labor  of  his  life  he  died,  full  of  years  and  of  honors.  The 
Ibllowing  note  from  him  ex[>resses  his  a[ipreciation  of  the 
interest  of  Governor  Smytli  in  tlie  work. 

Conxoi;d,  Aujrust  :]1,  1877. 
Hox.  Frederick  S.\iyt][,  Kx-( Joverxor: 

Iji'ir  Sir:  My  labors  as  eompiler  and  editor  of  the  }iro- 
vineial  and  State  }iapers  of  Xew  Hampshire  are  now  at  a 
close.  I  have  been  em]iloyed  in  the  work  assigned  me 
elevi-n  years  to  this  date.  I  [)on  youi"  otHcial  recommen- 
dation and  under  a  comniission  lieai'ing  your  signature, 
the  woi'k  was  conimeiieed.  ^'our  intelligent  apprei-iation 
of  the  proposal  to  puMisli  the  ancient  records  of  the 
i*ro\iiice  and  State,  your  earnest  reconmieiKhition  of  the 
sam(.'  to  tlie  honorable  legishiture.  and  the  [lersonal  (Mi- 
coui-ageiiit'iit  an<l  ajip]'o\al  of  the  work  which  1  liad  the 
honor  to  recei\'e  t'roni  you,  hiy  nte   under  histing  ohhga- 


PRESENT,  FUTURE,  AND  PAST.  251 

tions  of  gratitude.  The  whole  work,  coMi[)nsino:  ten  vol- 
umes octavo,  contains  a  complete  documentary  history  of 
New  Hampshire  from  its  earliest  settlement,  1623,  to  the 
ado})tion  of  the  State  constitution,  1784.  These  ancient 
documents  and  records  are  now  secure  against  the 
ravages  of  time.  It  will  give  you  pleasure  to  know  that 
they  have  already  become  a  standard  authority  for  histor- 
ical reference.  Their  value  will  be  enhanced  by  age,  and 
as  they  go  down  to  posterity,  your  official  agency  in  their 
publication  will  receive  honorable  acknowledgment. 

You  may  be  gratified,  sir,  to  learn  that  during  tlie  en- 
tire eleven  years  of  service,  I  have  not  lost  a  single  day 
by  ill  health  ;  and  I  fiatter  mvself  that  I  may  still  be 
S|>ared  to  |»erform  other  services  that  will  be  useful  to  the 
State  and  to  generations  to  come. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfully  and  gratefully. 
Your  obedient  servant, 

NATHANIEL  BOUTOX. 

Before  the  national  asylums  were  organized  and  in 
working  order,  the  governor  received  numerous  a])plica- 
tions  for  aid  from  disabled  veterans,  man}'  of  whom  were 
destitute  of  means,  incapacitated  for  labor,  and  without 
relatives  or  friends  who  could  relieve  their  wants.  The 
following  letter  refers  to  one  of  these  meritorious  cases. 

CoNcoHi),  X.  II.,  All  ■rust  ;!,  1SG6. 

Major-(^exkrai.  B.  F.  BiTLKK,  LuwKij,,  Mass.: 

71/'/  l)(<ir  S'j- :  Private  Thomas  O'Brien,  a  soldier  in 
one  ot"  our  New  Hampshire  regiments,  is  now  in  this  city, 
totally  disabled  and  destitute.  He  has  for  several  months 
been  su[»]K)rted  hy  some  benevolent  ladies  of  this  c-ity  at 
an  exjteiise  of  five  dollars  a  week,  and  they  begin  to 
weary  of  the  ])urdeii.  His  is  the  most  meritorious  and 
deservinir  ease  that  has  fallen  under  niv  observation. 


252  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

It  is  said  on  grood  authority  that  Mr.  O'Brien  raised  the 
iirst  flag  over  captured  Riclimond,  being  in  the  advance 
line,  and  having  been  a  sailor  he  was  the  only  man  pres- 
ent who  could  climb  the  pole.  He  is  a  proper  subject  for 
the  Xational  Asjium,  and  I  feel  anxious  that  he  should 
receive  the  benefits  of  the  institution  at  as  early  a  day  as 
possible.  Can  he  be  sent  to  the  Massachusetts  Hospital 
till  our  asylum  is  in  operation,  or  shall  I  assist  him 
here?  It  is  a  case  that  appeals  strongly  to  my  sympathy 
and  requires  attention,  and  I  would  like  your  suggestions 
in  resrard  to  it.     I  am 

Yours  very  faithfully, 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

Governor  Smyth  paid  }>ersonal  attention  to  the  col- 
lection of  bounties  which  had  been  promised  to  the  sol- 
diers by  the  General  Government,  but  which  had  for  some 
unaccountable  reason  often  ])een  withheld.  The  follow- 
ino-  letter  to  the  second  auditor  of  the  treasurv  is  a 
specimen  of  his  correspondence  on  that  subject. 

CoNCoHO,  X.  11..  December  19,  1866. 

Hon.  E.  ]).  Frexcii,  Washixgtox,  D.  C.  : 

>SV/- ;  On  examining  the  [layments  that  have  been  made 
by  the  United  States  on  account  of  bounty  assigned  to 
the  towns  of  this  State,  I  find  that,  witli  tlie  exception  of 
the  first  installment,  no  bounty  has  been  paid  for  the  fol- 
lowing classes  of  men  :  1st.  Men  transferred  to  the  navy; 
2(1.  Men  who  have  been  }»romoted  ;  3(1.  Men  who  have 
been  Ti-ansfcrred  to  the  veteran  reserve  cor})S :  4th.  Men 
who  have  been  discharged  for  disal)ility  or  disease,  al- 
though contracted  in  the  service  ;  ")th.  Men  who  were 
absent  sick,  in  the  hospital,  at  tlie  time  their  regiments 
were  mustered  out. 

Almost  witliout  exception  no  bounty  was  paid  for  the 
above  classes.     In  addition  to  those,  I  tind  many  reported 


PRESENT,    FUTURE,    AND    PAST.  253 

as  "  killed,"'  "  died  in  prison,"  etc.,  for  whom  no  l)OUMty 
lias  been  paid.  You  will  remember  tliat  I  left  with  you 
on  the  6th  inst.  the  rolls  of  assigned  bounties,  on  wliich  I 
liave  noted  remarks  against  the  names  of  tliose  men  for 
whom  I  can  account.  Will  you  please  to  have  tilled  out 
against  the  names  of  the  remainder  the  reason  why  tlie 
bounty  was  not  refunded  to  the  towns  ? 

Very  respectfully  yours, 

frp:i)erick  smyth. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

NEW    HAMPSHIRE    CELEBRATIONS. 

Ox  the  Fourth  of  July,  1866,  tlie  inhabitants  of  Bakers- 
villo  united  in  a  local  celebration  of  the  anniversary  of 
Natioiia!  Indejiendence.  An  invitation  to  be  present  was 
extended  to  Governor  Smyth,  who  replied  as  follows:  — 

William  AV.  ]Uker,  Esq..  and  others.  Committee, 
Manchester,  X.  II. : 

I  am  in  receijit  of  your  communication  of  the  30th  ult., 
inviting'  mc  to  atteud  your  ^iroposcd  cclcl)ration  on  the 
fourth  instant.  It  would  give  me  very  great  pleasure  to 
mingle  \\ith  the  good  people  of  Bakersville  in  the  demon- 
strations and  social  festivities  by  which  they  propose  to 
commemorate  the  natal  day  of  our  cherished  Republic, 
which,  though  tried  of  late  as  by  tire,  still  stands  without 
a  peer  in  either  lieniis[)here  ;  l)ut  engagements  ju'cviously 
made  Avill  compel  me  to  deny  myself  the  great  enjoyment 
the  occasion  would  undoubtedly  atford.  Ahow  me,  how- 
over,  to  offer  a  sentiment  at  }'oui'  festive  board. 

'•()ur  riiion  :  Dedicated  anew  to  liberty  and  justice, 
may  her  future  career  be  as  brilliant  and  glorious  as  her 
UJiexampled  I'ecord  of  the  past."" 

1  aiii  vrvy  sincerely  your  friend  and  I'ellow-citizen, 

EliEDERICK  SMYTH. 

())i  the  Mime  day.  the  Twelfth  Xew  Hampshire  A^olun- 
tcers  had  a  I'eunion.  (Governor  Smyth  was  invited,  and 
thus  acknowledu'ed  the  invitation  :  — 


NEW    IIAMI'SHIRE    OELEBRATIOXS.  255 

ExFXt  TIVE   DkI'A UTM KXT, 

CoNcoKD,  July  ;5,  1^60. 

Col.  (tei)Rge  D.  Savage,  Alton,  N.  H.  : 

J/y  D<ar  Sir :  I  acknowledge  the  receij)t  of  an  invita- 
tion to  attend  tlie  demonstrations  and  festivities  by  wliicli 
tlie  old  veteran  Twelfth  Xew  Hampshire  Volunteers  pro- 
pose to  eelebi-ate  the  anniversary  of  our  National  Indc- 
})endence,  and  at  the  same  time  to  strengthen  the  1)onds 
of  brotherhood  and  good  fello\\ship  in  the  ranks  of  tliat 
noble  and  patriotic  organization  by  a  grand  encam])ment 
and  reunion. 

The  histoi'y  of  your  regiment  is  by  no  means  uid'amiliar 
to  me.  In  defeat  at  Fredericksl»urg  or  in  \'ictory  at 
Gettysburg,  it  jiroved  itself  on  eithei'  occasion,  as  on  its 
many  other  battle-tields,  Avorthy  of  the  noble  State  that 
sent  them  forth  to  battle,  woi-thy  of  the  })roud  old  liag 
they  bore,  and  worthy  of  the  great  and  good  cause  which 
they  so  no])ly  vindicated  and  upheld.  In  all  the  rough- 
ness and  suttering  of  war  the  Twelfth  Uegiment  has  had 
its  liberal  share,  and  tew.  if  any.  can  }>oint  to  a  [irouderor 
more  eventi'ul  record,  and  I  can  but  admire  the  sentiment 
of  ])ride  in  and  res[>ect  for  the  organization  which  is  thus 
manifested  by  its  mend)ers:  ami  I  trust  you  A\'ill  long  ])re- 
ser\e  the  soldierly  brotherhood  which  seems  to  be  cher- 
ished and  Ibstered  among  you.  and  link  together  with 
hooks  of  ste(.'l  the  noble  circle  of  bra\e  and  ]»atriotic 
licarts  whom  the  fortunes  of  war  have  s[iared.  out  of  your 
once  full  ranks,  t'n^m  the  cai'uage  of  the  l)attle-iield.  and 
the  maladie>  of  camp  and  hospital. 

1  have  sincerely  to  regret  that  (*thei'  engagements  will 
de]irive  me  of  the  great  }ile:isurc^'  it  a\ ould  ati'ord  nii'  \o  meet 
A\itli  you  upon  the  occasion  ret'erred  to.  and  Avould  jiro- 
jiose  as  a  sentiment:  '•  Thi'  \'eterans  of  the  Twelfth  Xew 
]Ianip>liire  N'oluntciTs.*"  In  war  or  peace  they  have  alike 
illustrated  the  iiobjesi  ipialities  and  the  highest  attributes. 


256  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

A  patriotic  people  will  ever  hold  their  noble  sacrifices  in 
grateful  remembrance.     I  have  the  honor  to  be 
Very  respectfully  yonrs, 

FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

Governor  Smyth  attended  the  celebration  of  the  anni- 
versary of  our  National  Independence  in  1866  at  Ports- 
mouth, where  unusual  demonstrations  were  made.  There 
was  a  military  escort,  a  parade  of  the  fire  department,  a 
])rocession  of  trades,  representing  commerce,  manufac- 
tures, and  the  mechanic  arts,  a  balloon  ascension,  and  a 
regatta.  In  the  course  of  tlie  exercises  in  the  Temple, 
Governor  Smyth,  being  introduced  to  the  audience  by 
the  mayor,  said  :  — 

"  It  has  always  been  my  belief,  Mr.  President,  that  the 
common  pros]»erity  of  the  whole  country  could  be  attained 
in  its  truest  manner  by  the  greatest  prosperity  of  indi- 
viduals, communities,  towns,  and  States.  AVhatever  is  for 
the  interest  of  one,  rightly  considered,  should  be  for  the 
advancement  of  all.  It  is  for  this  reason  that,  Mhenever 
it  has  been  possible,  I  have  urged  upon  the  people  of 
Xew  IIam])shire  the  steady  development  of  their  resources. 
However  jealous  we  may  be  for  the  national  honor,  and 
however  quickly  our  soldiers  sprang  to  arms  to  resist  un- 
just encroachments,  we  rejoice  at  the  luitional  prosperity 
and  welfare  of  every  southern  State.  To  leave  this  gen- 
eral view  and  make  the  subject  personal  to  every  citizen, 
each  man  labors  most  truly  for  the  connuon  good  when  he 
imjiroves  to  the  utmost  the  stewardsliip  under  liis  care. 
Such  laljors  should  excite  no  inconsiderate  rivalry,  no 
local  jealousy.  Xothing  would  i-ejoicc  nie,  a  citizen  of 
Manchester,  more,  than  to  see  this  beautiful  seajiort  of 
Xew  Hanij»sliire  animated  in  lier  honorable  age  with  some 
of  the  enter] irise  and  the  energ_y  of  her  youth.  I  am  glad 
to  know  that  in  tnany  respects  this  is  now  the  case. 
And  so  I  should  r(joice  to  know  that  Dover  and  C\)ncord 


NEW    HAMPSHIRE    CELEBRATIONS.  257 

and  Keene  and  Clareniont  —  that  every  city  and  town  of 
the  good  old  Granite  State,  tlie  noble  mother  of  states- 
men and  tlie  home  of  soldiers  who  never  snrrender,  was 
makiniT  steady  and  rapid  progress  in  material  prosjierity 
and  in  educated  and  Christian  freedom.  But  Avhile  this  is 
my  prayer  for  the  towns  of  my  native  State,  I  have  no 
sympathy  wnth  that  narrow  vision  which  is  confined  to 
the  circle  of  the  horizon  which  immediately  surrounds 
us.  The  true  American  hails  everywhere  in  all  this  broad 
land  the  token  of  progress,  and  that  is  the  best  govern- 
ment which,  when  the  eternal  princi})les  of  justice  are 
settled,  maintains  the  balance  of  conflicting  intcn-sts  with 
even  hand."" 

The  legislature  of  Xew  Hampshire  had  passed  an  act 
re»|uiring  tlie  erection  of  lish-ways  over  or  through  any 
dam  on  certain  rivers,  when  suitable  fisli-ways  had  been 
erected  on  those  rivers  beloAv  the  boundary  of  the  State, 
which  fact  was  to  be  determined  by  the  }»roclaniation  of 
the  governor.  When  Governor  Sm^'th  learned  that  suit- 
able ways  for  the  passage  of  sea  fish  had  been  constructed 
at  Lowell  and  at  LaAvrence,  he  accordingly  issued  his 
jiroclamation  that  fish-ways  must  be  constructed  on  all 
dams  on  the  Merrimack,  the  Pemigewasset,  the  Winni- 
j>iseogee,  and  Baker's  rivers.  It  was  ascertained,  how- 
ever, that  the  shad  were  caught  while  atteinjttingto  ascend 
the  lower  fish-ways  in  Massachusetts,  whereujion  (Governor 
Smyth  addressed  tlie  following  letter  to  (b>vernor  A.  H. 
Bullock,  of  the  Bay  State. 

K.\  KCCriVK    1  >KI'A  KTM  KNT. 

CoNcOKK.  Xkw  HAMrsmiJK. 

To    lIlS    KXCELLENCY   A.   H.  BuLLOCK,   (toVKKNOR   ol'    MAS- 
SACHUSETTS : 
Sir  :  Permit  me  to  call  your  attention  to  the  fact  that 
larce  numbers  of  shad  are  now  beiuir  cau«"ht  at  \iirious 


258  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

points  upon  the  Merrimack  river  below  Lawrence,  and  ])y 
such  means  as  practically  to  defeat  the  eftbrts  now  being 
made  by  the  erection  of  iish-ways  at  Lawrence  and  Lowell 
to  restore  this  species  of  fish  to  the  waters  of  that  river 
in  this  State.  It  is  perfectly  apparent  that  if  by  means  of 
fish-nets  and  otherwise  the  shad  ascending  the  river  are 
to  l)e  intercepted  and  destroyed  en  masse  Ijefore  their 
arrival  at  the  fish-ways,  as  from  personal  knowledge  I  am 
satisfied  is  now  being  done,  any  efforts  to  restore  them  to 
the  waters  of  this  State  must  prove  futile. 

You  will  [lardon  me  for  calling  your  attention  to  this 
subject,  as  it  is  one  of  much  public  interest  to  our  people, 
and  the  State  has  alreadv  made  a  liberal  expenditure  to 
secure  the  restoration  of  this  valual)le  fish  to  her  waters. 
I  indulge  the  hope  that  you  will  be  pleased  to  direct  the 
attention  of  the  legislature  of  your  commonwealth  now 
in  session  to  this  subject,  and  that  suitable  laws  will  at 
once  be  enacted  to  prevent  the  present  destruction  of  the 
shad  in  asceiidiiig  the  river,  until  the  practicability  of  the 
recently  constructed  fish-wa^-s  can  be  tested,  and  the 
restoration  of  this  fish  to  the  up[)er  waters  of  the  river  can 
be  accomplished.  I  cainiot  doubt  that  a  provision  so 
reasonable,  and  at  the  same  time  absolutely  essential  to 
the  suc-cess  of  the  enterprise  in  which  several  States  are 
now  engaged,  will  commend  itself  at  once  to  your  favor 
and  the  friendly  action  of  a  Massachusetts  legislature. 

J  have  the  honor  to  remain 

Your  excellency's  obedient  servant, 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

This  letter  had  innnediate  effect,  and  the  tbllowiiig 
spring  the  Massachusetts  laws  regulating  tlie  fish-ways 
were  fully  eai'rio<l  out. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

IIHCEPTION    OF    GENERAL    SHERMAN. TEMPERANCE. 

Ma.ior-Generae  Sherman,  who  was  traveling  in  New 
England,  arrived  at  Concord  on  the  17th  of  July,  1866. 
On  the  following  morning  he  visited  tlie  Capitol,  where 
he  was  shown  the  different  executive  and  legislative  de- 
partments, and  inspected  with  interest  the  l)attle-Hags. 
A  large  concourse  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  had  mean- 
winle  gathered,  to  whom  Governor  Smyth  thus  introduced 
the  hero  of  the  "  March  to  the  Sea  "  :  — 

"  General  Shernum,  I  may  well  esteem  this  a  fortunate 
day  in  which  I  can  extend  to  you  the  hearty  and  the  cor- 
dial welcome  of  Xew  Hampshire.  She  sent  her  sons  to 
the  tented  field,  ready,  hy  every  sacrifice  save  that  of 
honor,  to  uphold  the  nation's  cause.  While  she  })oints 
M'ith  pride  to  the  sacred  standards  thatcheei'ed  her  ti'oops 
to  victory  and  consoled  them  in  defeat,  while  she  regards 
with  more  than  Eoman  matron's  pride  the  valor  of  her 
Bons,  she  has  ample  room  to  cherish  for  you,  general,  an 
admiration  and  regard  wliose  deptli  and  strengtli  is  only 
measured  hy  her  love  of  country. 

"  In  that  long  and  weary  day  when  neither  telegra}>h  noi- 
army  messengers  hrought  us  tidings  from  your  <'on([ue]'ing 
legions,  when  we  saw  you  after  that  continuous  campaign 
which  at  last  held  Atlanta  only  as  a  starting-point  for 
other  and  more  surjtassing  victories,  l>elieve  me,  sir,  there 
were  daily  and  hourly  prayers  that  the  great  march  might 
end  in  victory.  There  were  hearts  here  among  the  fast- 
nesses of  the  granite  hills,  inspired  to  l>elieve  and  to  ]ia\'e 
faith  in  the  triumph  of  our  cause,  that  heaivl  the  musie  ot" 
your  drums  long,  long  hefore  it  mingled  with  the  swell  of 


260  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH, 

the  Southern  sea  ;  that  saw  the  gleam  of  your  bayonets  ; 
tliat  were  neitlier  alarmed  nor  misled  by  the  old  game  of 
brag  that  consigned  you  and  your  men  to  the  dismal 
swamps  which  are  a  tit  emblem  of  the  rank  depth  of 
secession. 

''  But  whether  we  feared  or  believed,  all  rejoice  to  w^el- 
come  you  here  to-day,  to  welcome  you  with  voice,  and 
music,  and  cannon,  as  the  man  who  iirst  laid  open  to  the 
world  that  bald  and  monstrous  bubble,  the  Southern  Con- 
federacy, and  let  all  men  see  liow  wretched,  how  empty, 
how  bare  and  beggarly  a  tiling  it  is, 

"  Fellow-citizens,  other  generals  have  done  much,  but 
General  Sherman  let  the  first  glimpse  of  truth  and  broad 
daylight  into  the  region  of  darkness,  and  from  that  day 
the  victory  was  virtually  ours.  In  behalf  of  all  the  men 
and  women  and  children  of  the  Granite  State,  I  bid  the 
hero  of  so  many  victorious  battle-lields  welcome,  thrice 
welcome  to  this  capital."' 

When  the  cheering  had  subsided.  General  Sherman 
bowed  his  comjtliments  and  said  in  reply  :  — 

"  Your  Excellency,  and  Ladies  and  (Tcntlemen  :  Al- 
though I  have  never  been  here  before,  I  do  not  feel  a 
stranger,  I  see  many  faces  that  look  like  Americans, 
and  I  see  tiags  familiar  to  me.  and  therefore  I  do  not  feel 
strange  amongyou.  It  is  one  of  the  proudest  things  of  our 
life  that  we  caii  again  go  anywhere  we  please,  in  any  direc- 
tion, and  see  the  assemblies  of  good  Tnion  people.  I  left 
St,  Louis  on  the  4th  of  July.  You  used  to  call  St.  Louis 
a  rebellious  town,  and  say  it  sympathized  with  the  South. 
But  I  assure  you  that  it  is  loyal  at  all  events,  I  see 
nothing  there  but  the  true  Union  spirit.  During  my  jour- 
ney to  the  Ea^t  1  have  seen  nothing  Init  true  I^nion  feel- 
ing wherever  I  have  received  ovations.  At  every  point  I 
have  seen  numifotations  which  gave  me  great  pleasure 
sinijily  because  they  assured  me  that  the  union  of  these 


RECEPTION    OF    GENERAL    SHERMAN.  261 

States,  the  union  of  our  country,  is  now  so  stronjj  and  so 
finn  that  no  human  power  or  class  of  people  will  again 
dream  of  disturbing  it.  These  Hags  I  see  before  me  tell 
a  story  which  I  could  not,  if  I  would,  repeat.  Tliey  all 
bear  ample  testimony  that  their  noble  followei's  found  with 
them  a  great  many  Union  men,  in  the  country  south, 
through  which  the  Union  armies  passed ;  your  governor 
has  well  said  that  no  speaking  here  can  do  justice  to  the 
noble  deeds  of  our  soldiers,  and  therefore  I  will  close  by 
again  saying  tliat  it  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  see  you, 
and  you  will  ])lease  accept  my  sincere  thanks  for  your 
kindness." 

On  the  next  day,  Wednesday,  July  18,  (-Jeneral  Sher- 
man witnessed  the  Commencement  exercises  at  Dartmouth, 
and  received  the  degree  of  LL.  D.  After  the  alumni 
dinner,  Judge  Chase,  who  presided,  called  upon  Governor 
Smyth,  who,  he  said,  although  not  a  graduate,  was  yet  a 
iirm  friend  of  the  College,  and  to  his  etforts  were  due 
the  association  with  Dartmouth  of  the  }»roposed  agricul- 
tural college  of  the  State. 

Governor  Smyth  said  that  it  was  probal;>ly  only  his  ofH- 
cial  position  which  called  for  any  speech  from  I  dm.  In 
the  presence  of  men  distinguislied  for  military  glory  and 
judicial  ability,  he  thought  it  almost  a  sacrilege  for  an 
outsider  like  himself  to  attempt  to  speak.  It  might, 
however,  be  a  benetit  sometimes  to  hear  from  outsiders. 
He  would  therefore  say  a  word  or  two. 

Educated  men  were  needed  everywhere  and  always,  and 
institutions  of  learning  must,  like  everything  else,  keep 
up  with  the  times,  and  he  thought  that  Dartmouth  College 
ought  to  secure  all  the  assistance  the  State  could  afford. 
He  had  been  talking  with  an  old  farmer  about  connecting 
the  agricultural  college  with  Dartmouth.  The  farmer 
said  it  was  all  nonsense  :  they  spoiled  all  the  boys  who 
were  sent  there  now.     Thev  wouldn't  do  anvthiuij  after 


262  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

they  went  to  college,  lie  tlioiight,  though  lie  (hd  not 
presume  his  judgment  was  good  against  that  of  learned 
men,  that  our  institutions  might  be  made  of  a  more  prac- 
tical character.  He  had  thought  of  this  as  he  listened  to 
the  exercises.  There  ought  to  l)e  themes  enough  in 
American  literature  without  going  back  t(j  the  ancients 
whom  nobody  knew.  What  did  he  care  for  old  —  Charles 
VIII,  was  it  (turning  to  President  ^^mith)?  [Laughter 
and  applause.]  Well,  Henry  VIII,  if  that  is  better.  All 
he  knew  about  him  Avas,  that  he  was  an  old  rascal.  He 
preferred  to  hear  of  modern  things  which  he  could  un- 
derstand. 

His  excellency  closed  with  hearty  wishes  for  the  pros- 
perity of  the  college  faculty  and  alumni. 

By  education  and  tradition  (irovernor  Smyth  has  always 
been  a  temperance  man,  and  it  has  been  a  matter  of  much 
favorable  comment  in  the  public  press  that  he  discounte- 
nanced the  use  of  alcoholic  drinks  in  his  otiicial  life.  At 
the  State  temperance  convention,  in  1866,  at  the  conclu- 
sion of  remarks  by  President  Smith,  of  Dartmouth  Col- 
lege, the  governor,  being  present,  was  called  out,  and  said 
in  substance,  after  thanking  the  audience  for  tlieir  hearty 
welcome,  and  expressing  his  regrets  that  official  duties 
liad  deprived  him  of  the  pleasure  of  being  with  them 
much  of  the  day,  that  there  could  be  no  doubt  of  the  im- 
jiortance  of  the  subject  the  convention  had  met  to  con- 
sider, neitlier  could  there  be  any  question  in  the  minds  of 
wise  and  thoughtful  men  that  a  reform  is  now  greatly 
needed  in  our  State  and  country  in  the  prevalent  habit 
of  drinking  alcoholic  liquors.     The  governor  said, — 

"  (Jne  of  the  greatest  obstacles  in  the  way  of  this  reform 
at  the  present  time  is.  in  my  opinion,  the  habitual  use  of 
these  drinks  in  fashionable  society,  and  by  men  high  in 
influence  and  position.  Perhaps  it  may  not  be  improper 
for  me  to  state  on  this  occasion  (not  in  a  boastful  spirit, 


TEMPERANCE.  263 

but  that  my  position  on  this  question  may  not  be  misunder- 
stood) that  from  the  day  in  whicli  I  first  assumed  the 
responsible  position  conferred  upon  me  by  tlie  peojtle  of 
Xew  Hampshire,  I  resolved  not  to  furnish  intoxicating 
li(piors  to  my  guests  or  friends  on  any  occasion,  jtublic  or 
private,  or  i»artake  myself;  and  when  called  u[)on,as  has 
>>ften  been  the  case,  to  drink  at  public  dinners  or  other 
occasions,  in  response  to  })atriotic  or  friendly  sentiments, 
I  have  invariably  used  cold  water,  the  best  drink  for  a 
cool  head,  a  clear  mind,  and  a  good  conscience,  ever  given 
to  man. 

''Xow  I  have  many  near  and  dear  friends,  men  whom 
I  love  and  respect,  of  noble  hearts  and  sentiments,  who 
see  no  harm  in  ofiering  licpior  to  their  guests,  or  in  using 
it  themselves,  as  they  say,  moderately  ;  and  while  I  do 
not  desire  to  counsel  or  advise  any  particular  steps  which 
you  should  take  in  this  convention,  you  will  permit  me 
to  sa}'  that  nothing  is  to  be  gained  by  abuse  of  this  class 
of  men. 

"  I  rejoice  at  the  restraining  influences  now  l)eing 
brouglit  to  bear  upon  the  young  in  our  churches,  Sabbath 
schools,  and  public  schools,  by  the  organization  of  '  Cold 
Water  Armies,'  '  Bands  of  Hope,'  and  the  like.  These 
efforts  are  in  the  right  direction,  will  tell  most  powerfully 
on  the  future  of  our  rising  generation,  and  should  by  all 
means  be  persisted  in.  I  well  remember  and  shall  never 
forget  the  teachings  of  my  youth  on  the  subject  of  tem- 
perance. I  was  then  a  member  of  a  boys'  temperance 
society  in  my  native  town.  Although  I  luust  confess  I 
have  not  always  l)een  as  consistent  and  as  conscientious 
as  1  was  then,  I  trust  and  believe  the  influence  of  those 
early  days  has  not  been  entirely  lost  u]ton  me  :  and  Iknow 
among  my  l)oy  associates  in  that  society  not  one  of  them 
ever  became  a  drunkard.  I  say.  then.  Take  care  of  the 
children."' 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

thf:  citi/.kx  soldiery. 

The  reorg'anizatiou  of"  the  volunteer  militia  of  j^ew 
Ilaiijpshire  was  one  of  the  most  important  events  of  the 
governor's  second  year.  General  Joal)  X.  Patterson,  of 
Hopkinton,  was  appointed  colonel  of  the  First  Regiment, 
and  he  was  ordered  to  parade  his  regiment  at  Manchester 
for  a  three  days'  encampment,  beginning  October  1.  At 
the  conclusion  of  the  review  on  that  occasion,  fTOvernor 
Smyth  said:  — 

Officers  and  Soldiers  : 

It  is  with  lieartfelt  gratification  and  [»ride  that  I  have 
witnessed  your  conduct,  and  the  splendid  manner  in 
wliicli  you  have  performed  your  duties  this  day.  I  shall 
not  attempt  to  conceal  the  deep  anxiety  which  I  have 
felt,  that  this  organization,  so  recently  called  into  exist- 
ence, under  my  adnunistration,  should  assume  a  shape 
and  efficiency  not  unworthy  of  the  }>ast  renown  and  jtres- 
ent  needs  of  the  State. 

The  lessons  we  have  all  learned  will,  I  trust,  never  l)e 
forgotten,  and  while  the  su[)remacy  of  moral  influence 
must  ever  take  [U'ecedence  of  mere  brute  force  in  the 
affairs  of  tliis  nation,  yet  e\ents  have  taught  us  that  we 
can  only  bi-  safe  when  Just  principles  are  sustained  and 
pushi'd  on  by  organized,  intelligent  strength. 

On  tills  tented  fit-Id  (once  possesseil  and  cultivated  by 
the  hero  of  Bennington,  who  now  sleeps  in  ycjiider  inclo- 
sure )  our  regiments  drilled  ere  they  went  forth  to  their 
first  bloody  l)aptism  of  war.  Here,  I  doubt  not,  many  of 
you  acipiired  a  knowledgfi  of  those  priiu-iples  which  after- 


THE    CITIZEN    SOIiDIEKY.  265 

ward  were  found  of  great  value,  and  it  is  to  be  lioped  that 
the  spirit  Avliich  animated  you  then  and  increased  witli  all 
the  perils  and  hardshi|>s  you  encountered,  yet  remains,  and 
is  ready  to  be  ottered,  if  need  be,  in  defense  of  our  com- 
mon liberties. 

Although  this  is  a  new  organization,  I  am  happy  to 
know  it  is  yet  largely  composed  of  veterans,  of  men  who 
know  that  to  be  a  soldier  is  no  light  thing,  and  that  he 
has  duties  in  time  of  peace  no  less  than  in  time  of  war. 
It  is  indeed  difficult,  and  possibly  distasteful,  for  the  vet- 
eran soldier,  tried  upon  a  hundred  l)attle-tields,  to  assume 
the  patient  duties  of  the  drill,  when  the  great  motive 
which  urged  him  on  has  been  removed  and  peace  re- 
stored to  bless  the  land.  But  the  good  citizen  well 
knows  that  our  liberties  are  worth  some  sacrifice,  an<l 
that  every  one  is  called  on  in  proportion  to  his  ability  to 
contribute  something  to  the  common  cause.  While  we  all 
hope  never  to  see  our  country  engaged  in  war  again,  and 
while  it  is  most  devoutly  to  be  desired  that  peaceful  coun- 
sels shall  prevail  in  our  internal  relations  and  in  our  deal- 
ings with  other  nations,  yet  we  must  be  always  ready,  so 
that,  let  danger  come  from  whatever  source  it  may,  the 
sentinel  may  never  be  found  sleeping  upon  his  [K>st. 

I  have  said,  soldiers,  that  after  the  excitements  of  war, 
this  militia  system,  this  war  in  peace,  may  seem  (bUl  and 
irksome.  It  otters  you  no  high  bounties,  it  opens  no 
great  chances  for  dazzling  promotion,  but  it  gives  you 
what  every  man  who  loves  his  country  will  rc'joice  in,  a 
chance  to  do  your  duty.  It  is  a  common  burden  for  the 
common  good,  and,  while  it  should  be  shared  as  equally 
as  possible  by  all,  we  should  all  unite  to  make  it  honored 
and  honorable.  I  would  appeal  to  every  citizen  of  the 
State  to  give  his  moral  influence  and  his  entire  co-opera- 
tion to  the  work.  AVhat  evils  might  have  been  avoided, 
what    useless    sacrifice    of    precious    lives    spai-ed,    what 


266  LIFE  OF  FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

amounts  of  treasure  saved,  had  we  possessed  a  simple, 
uniform,  working;  militia  system  at  the  outbreak  of  the 
war  I  But  because  our  experience  has  been  dearly  bought, 
our  knowledge  ac<juired  at  a  great  price,  we  are,  there- 
fore, bound  to  make  good  use  of  it  so  much  the  more. 

Veteran  soldiers  in  arms,  your  conduct  and  appear- 
ance at  this  encampment  are  such  as  to  reflect  new  credit 
upon  your  State,  and  to  give  us  the  hope  that  we  shall 
have  and  [»erpetually  maintain  a  relialde  system  of  de- 
fense, ^'ou  are  the  sword  of  the  magistrate,  which  is  to 
give  support  and  dignity  to  hn\ ,  contidence  and  security 
to  government,  and  which  is  to  be  a  terror  to  evil-doers 
everywhere.  This  will  back  up  and  support  the  sturdy 
moral  sense  of  the  country,  give  conscious  safety  to  every 
fireside,  and  forever  prevent  all  further  attempts  for  the 
overthrow  of  our  cherished  institutions.  Since  the  war, 
the  world  has  been  compelled  to  respect  our  i)Ower,  and 
those  who  Avould  gladly  have  been  enemies  are  silenced. 
We  need  only  to  retain  our  weapons,  and  show  that  we 
are  prepared  to  maintain  everywhere  and  on  all  occasions 
the  just  rights  of  the  nation,  to  secure  that  regard  which 
is  our  due.  Our  enemies  will  yield  it  because  they  dare 
not  refuse,  and  our  friends  will  all  rejoice  at  that  strength 
which,  I  trust,  Avill  never  be  exercised  save  in  a  just 
cause. 

On  tlie  3d  of  Ot-tober,  the  Amoskeag  Veterans,  of 
Manchester,  then  commanded  by  the  veteran  Colonel 
Chandler  E.  Potter,  visited  Xewburyport,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Merrimack,  (lovernor  Smyth,  and  staff,  by  invi- 
tation, accomj»anied  them,  and  Governor  Bullock  was 
[•revented  l)y  illness  from  accompanying  the  Ancient  and 
Honorable  Artillery  Company,  of  Boston.  The  two 
corjis  were  i-eceived  and  entertained  by  the  Xewburyjiort 
Veteran  Artillery  Coinjiany,  Ca]>tain  AV.  V..  Currier.  At 
a  dinner  "-iveii  in  the  citv  hall.  (Tovernor  Smvth  made  an 


THE    CITIZEN    SOLDIERY.  267 

interesting  and  impressive  sjieecli,  in  which  he  recalled  his 
first  visit  to  Ne\vbnryi>ort  when  a  boy,  acconiitanying  a 
relative  who  had  brought  a  load  of  charcoal  to  sell.  This 
account  of  his  early  life,  from  which  he  had  risen  1)y  liis 
own  exertions  to  be  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  Granite 
State,  was  received  with  rounds  of  a^jplause. 

Governor  Smyth  and  suite  [>assed  that  niglit  at  Indian 
Hill  Farm,  and  the  next  day,  escorted  by  the  two  veteran 
organizations,  with  their  fine  l)ands,  he  visited  Ames- 
bury,  where  a  committee  of  citizens  received  their  guests. 
Marcliing  through  the  princi})al  streets,  the  column 
halted  before  the  residence  of  John  (t.  Whittier,  the 
jioet,  and  when  he  appeared  with  (governor  Smyth  at  the 
door  of  his  cottage,  he  was  greeted  by  the  music  and  then 
by  the  loud  cheers  of  the  soldiers  and  people.  It  was  re- 
freshing to  see  honor  done  to  a  man  because  in  all  his  life 
he  had  been  manly,  and  not  because  of  ]>osition,  wealth, 
or  any  of  the  accidents  that  surround  men.  Xoble  men 
were  they,  the  poet  and  the  governor  of  jSTew  Hampshire, 
standing  side  by  side,  before  tlie  soldiery  and  citizens ; 
botli  sprung  from  the  lowly  and  working  class  of  society  ; 
botli  rising  in  different  spheres  by  mental  gifts  and  prac- 
tical virtues ;  both  honored  much  for  their  i)atriotism, 
love  of  country,  and  love  of  humanity,  and  l)oth  loved 
and  respected  for  social  and  moral  (jualities.  From  the 
poet's  door  the  procession  moved  to  the  hotel,  where 
|»rovision  was  made  for  them,  and  where,  at  the  call  of 
the  peo)>le,  (Tovernor  Smyth,  (Tcneral  Head,  and  Colonel 
Cross  made  si)eeches.  The  governor,  as  usual,  was  most 
liappy  in  his  remarks,  and  on  account  of  some  allusion 
to  the  children,  after  he  was  again  in  the  street  some 
lady  sent  a  baby  to  him,  whose  sweet  face  and  smiling 
lips  he  kissed,  while  the  little  fellow  recijirocated  the 
tokens  of  afiection. 

The  Second  Regiment  of  Xew  Hampshire  X'olunteers, 
commanded  l)y  Colonel  A.  W.  lioHins,  went  into  camp 


268  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

at  Dover  on  the  4th,  oth.  and  6th  of  October.  The 
camp-ffrounrl  was  on  Dover  Point  road,  wliere  the  last  old- 
fashioned  militia  muster  had  been  held  t\venty-one  years 
before.  Governor  Smvth  was  present  on  the  last  day  of 
the  encampment,  and  at  the  ck»se  of  the  review  he  ad- 
dressed the  troops. 

"  Officers  and  sohliers,""  said  Governor  Smyth,  '•  there 
are  associations  connected  with  this  place  of  your  en- 
cam  jtment  which  are  well  calculated  to  excite  emotions 
of  pride  and  trratiiication  in  the  l)reast  of  every  son  of 
Xew  Ham[>shire,  and  stimulate  him  to  new  purposes  of 
duty  and  new  devotion  to  lil)erty.  I  cannot  foriret  that 
within  sight  and  within  cannon  range  of  this  spot  was 
founded  the  tirst  settlement  in  New  Hamjishire.  — that 
oidy  a  year  or  two  subsequent  to  the  memoral)le  settle- 
ment at  Plymouth,  the  Hiltons  and  their  little  l)ody  of 
comi-ades.  under  a  charter  from  the  Earl  of  Warwick, 
planted  at  Dover  Point  the  germs  of  that  infant  State 
which  has  l)ecome  our  own  proud  and  civilized  and  pros- 
perous commonwealth.  Among  the  institutions  founded 
in  those  earliest  days  of  our  colonial  history  was  an  or- 
ganized militia,  which  Avas  early  intertwined  with  the 
affections  and  pride  and  ho})es  of  our  fatliers,  and  has  ex- 
erted a  ]towerful  influence  upon  the  develo|)ment  of  our 
State,  as  well  as  of  all  others  planted  by  the  Puritan  colo- 
nists of  Xew  England.  Perhaj'S  it  was  not  the  greatest 
of  the  institutiojis  shaped  by  the  wise  founders  of  the  Re- 
pul)lic,  but  it  has  ever  been  and  must  always  be  regarded 
as  one  of  the  great  bulwarks  of  civil  liberty." 

Whik'  at  Dover,  a  soeial  i-eeeption  was  given  by  Gov- 
ernor and  Mrs.  Smyth  at  the  New  Hampshire  Hotel,  the 
projtrietor  kindly  i>utting  at  their  disposal  his  own  par- 
lors, which  were  thronged  during  the  evening  by  the  citi- 
zens of  Dover,  witii  their  ladies,  who  were  said  l)y  tlie 
Dover  Emjuirer  to  have  been  "  charmed  with  the  ag-ree- 
able  manners  of  his  excellencv  and  ladv.*" 


CHAPTEK    XXV. 

NATIONAL    soldiers'    IIOMt:S. 

Reference  lias  been  made  in  these  pages  to  the  initial 
steps  of  Congress  in  establisliing  homes  for  our  disabled 
soldiers.  Governor  Smyth,  one  of  the  most  active  and 
interested  of  the  incorporators,  was  ajipointed  by  Congress 
in  1866  one  of  the  managers  for  six  years.  His  associates 
at  that  time  vcere  the  President  of  the  United  States,  the 
secretary  of  ^var,  and  the  chief  justice  ex  officio,  Hon.  R. 
J.  Oglesby,  of  Springfield,  Illinois,  General  B.  F.  Butler, 
of  Massachusetts,  Hon.  Lewis  B.  Gunckel,  of  Dayton, 
Ohio,  Jay  Cook,  of  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania,  and  (Gen- 
eral Martindale,  of  Rochester,  Xew  York,  either  of  whom 
had  authority  to  grant  admission  to  the  homes  on  applica- 
tion made  in  due  form.  On  the  expiration  of  Governor 
Smyth's  tirst  term,  he  was  reappointed  in  1872.  In  1878, 
the  House  being  Democratic  and  tlie  Senate  nearly  bal- 
anced. General  Shields  was  proposed  as  the  governor's 
successor,  but  tailed  of  an  election.  In  1880,  however, 
the  Democracy  were  able  to  unite,  and  Governor  Smyth, 
after  fourteen  years  of  service,  was  superseded.  It  may 
be  said  with  truth  that  few  public  officers  have  brought 
more  zeal  to  the  discharge  of  a  duty  which  was  at  times 
very  exacting,  or  attended  more  faithfully  meetings  of  the 
board,  the  only  compensation  for  which  was  a  conscious- 
ness of  duty  done.  In  all  these  years  there  a})pears  to 
have  been  no  reason  for  fault-finding,  either  on  the  part 
of  inmates  of  the  homes  oi'  of  the  [)ublic,  except  such  as 
is  incident  to  all  such  affairs,  and  which  was  always 
promptly  rectified.  A  sharp-eyed  opi>osition  has  at  all 
events  found  nothing  to  profit  by. 


270  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Wlion  the  foundation  of  a  chapel  was  laid  at  the  Cen- 
tral Home  in  Dayton,  the  Hon,  L.  B.  Gunckel,  local 
manager,  made  a  hrief  address,  in  concluding  which  he 
briefly  alluded  to  the  establishment  of  the  Xational  Sol- 
diers' Home  at  this  point,  and  remarked  that  the  location 
here  was  mainly  due  to  an  eminent  gentleman  who  was 
present  on  the  occasion,  Governor  Frederick  Smyth,  of 
Xew  Hampshire,  wliom  he  had  the  honor  of  introducing 
to  the  assenddy,  and  who  would  then  address  tliem.  The 
fi^overnor  came  forward  to  the  platform,  and  spoke  as 
follows:  — 

"  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  of  Dayton,  and  Soldiers  of  the 
Army  of  the  Country :  I  congratulate  you  that  l)y  the 
side  of  this  military  asylum  we  are  to  raise  a  Imilding  for 
the  worship  of  God.  The  Government  of  tins  nation, 
representing  the  people,  has  provided  for  its  disabled  and 
impoverished  heroes  the  most  am[ile  and  comfortable 
homes.  The  loyal  people  of  those  United  States  thereby 
show  to  the  world  that  they  will  ne\'er  forget  their  de- 
fenders ;  and  while  they  care  tenderly  for  their  l)odily 
wants,  they  have  n(jt  forgotten  other  and  higher  necessi- 
ties of  men.  This  little  church  wliich  we  quarry  from 
this  beautiful  stone  and  begin  to  build  here  to-day,  is  a 
token  of  allegiance, — a  signet,  as  it  were,  of  loyalty  both  to 
the  rightful  authorities  of  the  land  and  to  the  Supreme 
Ruler  over  all.  The  best  and  truest  citizen  the  world  over, 
is  he  who  first  discliarges  his  duty  to  his  God,  and  under 
him  to  the  laws  of  the  land.  Therefore  I  think  this  build- 
ing we  are  about  to  raise  is  one  of  the  best  possible 
memorials  of  the  war  which  had  for  its  object  the  main- 
tenance of  the  laws  and  the  assertion  of  that  principle  in 
the  charters  of  our  civil^  lil)erty,  that  all  men  are  created 
equal,  —  equal  in  the  matter  of  right,  equal  in  the  duties 
thev  owe  to  (iod  and  their  countr}'. 

"  A  memorial  like  this  holds  out  no  threat  and  conveys 
no  taunt  to  a  vanquished  foe  ;  it  says  as  it  means  —  peace 


NATIONAL    soldiers'    HOMES.  271 

to  all  wiio  will  have  peace.  But  as  the  s_viul)ol  of  the 
hio^hcst  authority,  it  also  proclaims  a  law  to  be  ol>eye<l. 
Liberty  without  law  is  worse  than  w(^rthless,  for  it  means 
the  liberty  of  the  mob  and  of  riot,  and  by  it  the  weak  are 
oppressed  and  the  poor  made  poorer  yet.  Against  the 
liberty  to  do  wrong  and  to  take  a  man's  lal>or  without  pay 
our  war  was  waged,  and  when  at  last  we  are  victorious, 
we  send  our  missionaries  and  teachers  to  prove  that  this 
was  not  a  war  for  conquest  or  [lower  simply,  but  for  the 
triumph  of  a  great  truth.  Of  this  truth  the  church  is  the 
best  and  most  fitting  memorial,  because  its  teachings  pro- 
vide for  and  urge  an  exact  justice  tVom  man  to  man, 
tempered  by  mercy,  forgiveness,  conc-iliation,  and  peace. 

"If  the  enmities  and  animosities  that  brought  on  the 
contest  and  that  have  sju-ung  from  its  [)rosecution  can  be 
l)uried  anywhere  in  this  world,  it  ought  to  be  at  the  altar, 
and  in  the  house  of  the  T^ord.  I  do  not  believe  tliat  you, 
brave  soldiers,  have  brought  beneath  those  old  scars  any 
feelings  of  enmity  or  of  revenge  toward  those  you  have 
met  and  fairly  beaten.  Such  a  harbored  grudge  might 
have  l)een  expected  of  men  in  a  darker  age  of  the  world, 
but  it  is  not  a  characteristic  of  the  soldiers  of  the  American 
Ivepublic. 

"  This  house  of  A\orshi])  may  als(t  I»e  regarded  as  a 
pledge  that  the  great  ideas  for  which  the  l)attle  was  tbuglit 
and  the  vi<'torv  won,  will  never  be  given  \ip.  You.  citi- 
zens of  Dayton,  "whose  dear  ones  ga\'e  all  for  the  cause. 
and  who  l>elieve  in  the  righteousness  of  tliat  <'ause.  have 
a  right  to  denumd  that  those  sacrifices  1)e  not  in  vain  ; 
that  we  \\'dVQ  peace  on  the  only  }iossible  sure  basis, 
that  of  a  wise  Christian  equality,  that  (»f  a  Just  and  tem- 
perate l)ut  >"/v  administration  of  the  law  of  tlie  land. 
wherever  the  sun  shines  on  an  inch  of  American  -oil.  I 
know  that  you,  bra\"e  soldiers,  will  insist  tliat  the  fruit- 
of  your  devotion  and  sutferinu's  shall  not  be  lo<t. 


272  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

"  But  I  hope  that  tliis  building  also  will  convey  to  you 
the  idea  that  the  four  cold  bare  walls  of  an  asylum  is  not 
all  that  the  country  owes  or  will  give  to  its  defenders. 
►She  recognizes,  let  us  all  hope  and  believe,  the  hand  of 
an  All-Wise  God  in  every  act  of  this  great  drama ;  while 
compelled  to  take  the  sword  to  preserve  a  liberty  unsullied 
by  violence,  and  law  made  with  regard  to  the  rights  of 
every  man,  she  offers  to  all  her  citizens  every  where  a  fire- 
side safe  from  the  intruding  hand  of  violence,  and  a  wor- 
shi})  and  a  Bible  free  to  the  humblest  conscience. 

•'  Citizens  of  Dayton,  let  me  bespeak  your  sympathy 
and  assistance  in  the  objects  of  this  little  chapel.  The 
general  feeling  of  the  country  has  indeed  taken  the  work 
of  the  Good  Samaritan  from  your  hands  in  this  instance, 
but  the  worthy  chaplain  and  we  all  will  look  to  you  for 
moral  aid  and  sympathy.'" 

When  this  biographical  sketch  was  being  prepared,  a 
friend  of  Governor  Smyth  wrote  to  General  Butler,  of 
Massachusetts,  and  to  (ileneral  Gunckel,  of  Ohio,  who  had 
Iteen  associated  with  him  on  the  board  of  directors  for  sol- 
diers' homes,  asking  their  opinion  of  his  services.  They 
jiromptly  rejilied.  (General  B.  F.  Butler,  in  a  letter  dated 
at  Boston,  said  :  — 

■'.  Dear  Sir:  Hx-i^overnor  Smyth  served  on  the  board 
of  managers  of  the  National  Homes  for  I_)isal)led  Soldiers 
with  me  for  twelve  years.  I  know  T  shall  echo  the  opinion 
oi"  all  his  assoeiates  when  I  say  Governor  Smyth  was  one 
of  the  most  \ahiable  members  of  the  board.  His  accu- 
rate business  knowledge,  and  the  skill  and  al)ility  dis}»layed 
by  him  in  a<ljusting  complicated  aceounts,  caused  the  l»oard 
to  jiut  upon  liiiii  more  by  far  than  his  share  of  such  work. 
I  lis  zeal  ill  the  cause  of  the  disabled  volunteers  never 
tlagge<l  for  a  moment,  and  he  never  shirked  or  neglected 
ii  duty. 

lie  wa>  ahvav>  in   favor   of   the   strictest  economv    as 


NATIONAL    soldiers'    HOMES.  273 

roii'ards  tlic  oxpciuliture  ot*  money,  but  equally  an  advo- 
cate of  evervthiiiii;  l)eing  ihyua  tor  the  soldiers  that  would 
I'onduee  to  their  happiness  and  conitort.  His  economy 
was  in  the  nietlxxl  of  ex[)enditure,  and  not  as  to  what 
should  he  done  for  the  soldiers.  Xo  man  held  a  hi<i;her 
place  in  the  esteem  of  every  niemher  of  the  hoard  tlian 
did  (Governor  Smyth,  and  when  for  political  reasons  he 
was  removed  from  the  board,  the  United  States  and  the 
s(^l<liers  both  met  a  irreat  loss. 

^'ours  truly, 

\].  F.   BUTLER. 

(general  Lewis  !>.  Gunckel,  of  Ohio,  in  inclosinw-  tlie 
following  note,  said  :  — 

•'  I  am  glad  to  hear  that  the  biography  of  Governor 
Smyth  is  to  be  written,  for  l»esides  the  gratification  it  will 
atford  his  many  friends  and  acipiaintances,  it  can  hardly 
fail  to  interest  and  hel})  grown  })eoi»le  generally,  and  to 
encourage  young  men  especially,  by  presenting  so  worthy 
an  exam[)le  of  what  we  Americans  are  jiroud  to  call  a 
self-made  man."  General  (lunckel  said,  writing  from 
Dayton,  Ohio  :  — 

"I  tii'st  met  Governor  Smyth  at  a  meeting  of  the  board 
of  manaii:ers  of  the  National  Home  for  Disabled  \'olun- 
teer  Soldiers,  at  its  first  mei'ting.  in  May,  iSdtl,  and  T 
was  then  attracted  by  his  ])]easant  face  and  frank  maimer, 
and  inqiressed  by  his  <|uick  percc}»ti<)ns,  jirai'tical  knowl- 
e(lge.  and  sound  judgment.  And  in  attci*  years  I  often 
noticed  how  such  members  of  the  board  as  ('hief  .lustice 
Ghase,  Secretary  Stanton.  Chief  dusticc  Waite,  (ienci'al 
Butler,  and  (General  Martindale,  defen'e(l  to  his  opinions, 
and  how  largely  they  were  governed  by  bis  judgment  in 
all  matters  of  a  jiractical  or  financial  cliara'-ter. 

■■  1  was  associated  with  him  on  committees  ajipointed  to 
f-elect  the  site  foi'  several  of  the  hi>nie>  an<l  inirdiase  the 


274  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

necessiiiy  grounds  therefor ;  and  I  recall  with  grateful 
pleasure  his  invaluable  services  in  that  behalf.  Every 
one  who  has  visited  these  homes  recognizes  the  peculiar 
iitness  of  the  selections  made,  especially  for  the  central 
and  northwestern  branches  ;  but  few  people,  even  in  Ohio 
and  Wisconsin,  know  how  largely  this  result,  as  well  as 
the  saving  of  thousands  of  dollars  in  the  purchases,  was 
due  to  the  taste  and  Judgment,  the  Yankee  tact  and 
shrewdness,  of  Xew  Hampshire's  ex-governor. 

"And  so  in  the  years  succeeding,  in  the  management 
and  control  of  an  institution  caring  for  8,000  disabled 
^soldiers  and  expending  a  million  and  a  quarter  dollars 
.annually,  there  was  es}iecial  laed  of  just  such  a  man  "S 
Gorcmor  Si/n/f/i  [the  italics  are  Mr.  Gunckel's],  and  I  do 
not  exaggerate  when  I  say  that  through  the  watchfulness 
and  care,  the  cc>urage  and  determination  of  Governor 
iSmyth,  thousands,  yes,  tens  of  thousands  of  dollars  were 
saved  to  the  (Tovernment  and  people. 

''  But  it  must  not  be  sup[iosed  from  this  that  the  gov- 
ernor ]»ermitted  his  idea  of  economy  to  stand  in  the  way 
of  liberal  a})}»ropnati()ns  for  the  su}iport,  comfort,  and 
lia[»iiiness  of  the  disabled  soldiers.  Xo  member  of  the 
l)oard  had  livelier  sympathies  o>r  a  more  liberal  liand  : 
but  when  the  api>ro[>riations  ^^•ere  made,  he  wanted  tlie 
money  economically  and  honestly  expended  and  was 
indignant  when  he  disc(n'ered  the  slightest  extravagance 
or  irregularity. 

"  He  liad  little  patience  witii  some  of  the  goveriic^rs 
who  attemjited  to  make  the  asylums  military  garrisons, 
goveiMied  under  the  articles  of  u'ar  and  the  severe  dis- 
cipline o1'  the  regiihir  army,  lie  insisted  uj»on  a  kindlier 
i-ule,  and  in  making  the  se\'eral  institutions  homes  in  the 
best  sense  of  that  word:  and  it  was  upon  his  sugofestion 
tlmt  ("ong!-css  was  asked  to  amend  the  original  act  an<l 
did  amend  it.  so  as  to  chanij:e  the  name"  asvlum"  into  that 


NATIONAL    soldiers'    HOMES.  275 

of  '  home.'  And  because  the  soldiers  knew  him  to  be  one 
of  their  stanchest  and  l)est  friends,  he  was  always  the 
most  welcome  of  visitors,  and  his  appearance  on  the  pub- 
lic platform  never  failed  to  call  out  the  loudest  applause. 
While  he  made  no  pretensions  to  oratory,  he  was  invaria- 
bly called  out  and  compelled  to  speak,  and,  strangely 
enough,  his  speeches  were  enjoyed  quite  as  much  as  those 
of  the  trained  s[)eakers  from  the  [»ulpit  and  the  bar. 

"  I  was  intimately  connected  with  Governor  Smyth  in 
tills  national  board  for  twelve  years,  and  learned  to  know 
him  as  well  as  one  man  can  know  another;  and  although 
I  have,  in  the  course  of  my  life,  chanced  to  know  many 
other  pul)lic  men,  some  of  them  among  the  most  dis- 
tinguished during  the  war  period,  I  never  knew  one 
purer  in  mind,  simpler  in  habits,  or  cleaner  in  conscience, 
than  Frederick  Smytli,  of  Xew  Hampshire." 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

A     THIRD      TERM      DECLINED. PROCLAMATION     FOR     FAST. 

CLEMENCY. 

It  liad  grown  to  he  a  custom  in  Xew  Hampshire  that  a 
governor  should  hohl  his  office  two  years  and  no  more, 
but  so  successful  was  the  administration  of  Governor 
Smyth,  that,  contrary  to  precedent,  many  of  the  most 
influential  and  respectable  journals  of  the  State,  among 
which  were  the  National  Eagle,  the  Concord  Statesman, 
the  Dover  Enquirer,  the  Portsmouth  Journal,  and  the 
Keene  Sentinel,  advocated  his  nomination  for  a  third 
term.  Tlie  governor,  however,  declined  to  be  considered 
a  candidate,  and  publicly  announced  his  determination  in 
the  following  letter,  which  was  published  in  the  Concord 
Statesman  :  — 

CoxcoKD,  January  1,  18G7. 
To  THE  Editors  of  the  Statesman  : 

Jj<ar  Sii\^ :  I  have  noticed  an  article  in  the  last  issue 
of  your  ]iajier,  favoi'ing  my  election  for  a  third  term  to  the 
office  now  held  l)y  me.  and  I  liave  also  observed  that  sev- 
eral other  liepnblican  journals  in  diffi.-rent  parts  of  the 
State  have  kindly  cxpi'essed  the  same  preference.  I  had 
supposed  that  my  decision,  early  and  often  declared,  not 
again  to  lie  a  candidate,  was  well  understood  l)y  my 
friends  and  the  Pe])ublican  party  ;  but  the  friendly  ex- 
pression^  of  the  same  tenor  from  so  numy  pul)lic  journals, 
with  other  indications,  lead  me  to  doubt  whetlier  a)i 
expectation  doo  not  still  exist  in  the  minds  of  some  that 
I  may  yet  reconsider  my  determination.  In  order,  there- 
fore, to  >easonalily  remove  any  and  all   misajiprehensions 


A    THIRD    TERM    DECLINED.  277 

upon  this  point,  T  l)eg  leave  to  huv  through  your  columns 
that,  while  fully  appreciating  the  confidence  ini[)lie(l  in  the 
presenting  of  my  name  for  a  third  term,  my  resolution 
not  again  to  be  a  candidate  was  early  and  deliberately 
taken,  and  1  have  since  seen  no  reason  for  chani^inij;  it. 
Profoundly  grateful  to  the  people  of  Xew  Hampshire  for 
the  partiality  which  selected  me,  and  the  confidence 
which  has  sustained  me  thus  far  in  the  office  of  chief 
magistrate,  I  shall  retire  at  tlie  end  of  my  present  term 
with  only  regret  that  I  was  not  able  to  bring  to  the  public 
service  a  degree  of  experience  and  ability  commensurate 
with  a  just  estimate  of  tlie  importance  and  dignity  of  the 
office.  Trusting  that  upon  whomsoever  the  choice  of  the 
convention  may  fall,  the  nonnnee  will  receive  the  same 
united  and  hearty  support  whicli  has  been  so  generously 
accorded  to  me,  I  have  the  honor  to  remain,  gentlemen, 
A'ery  respectfully,  your  oljedient  servant. 

FREDERrCK  SMYTH. 

The  anniversary  of  Washington's  l/irthday,  on  the  2'2d 
of  Fel)ruarv,  1867,  was  celebrated  at  ^[anchester  by  the 
Amoskeag  Veterans,  Colonel  David  Cmss,  with  a  parade, 
an  oration  by  Rev.  W.  IT.  Thomas,  and  a  dinner.  Gov- 
ernor Smyth  was  [iresent  at  the  dinner,  and  was  called 
upon  to  res[>ond  to  the  following  toast  :  — 

"The  governor  of  Xew  Ham})shire  :  Though  onl\'  a 
private  in  the  ranks  of  the  Veterans,  he  has  proved  him- 
self worthy  to  be  the  commander-in-chief  of  our  State." 
Rising  amidst  applause,  (Governor  Smyth  said:  — 

Mr.  Commander  and  Veterans  : 

A  certain  great  military  commander  said,  that  as  long 
as  his  soldiers  could  get  a  crust  of  black  bread  and  a 
drink  of  water  he  could  hold  his  own  against  the  com- 
bined armies  of  Europe.  If  this  is  a  test  of  a  soldier's 
endurance,   or   of  a  country's  safety,  then,  judging  from 


278  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

these  tokens,  your  corps  is  a  long  way  from  exhaustion, 
and  the  great  State  of  New  Hampshire  is  safe  for  a  long 
time  to  come.  Allow  me  to  congratulate  you  on  the  ex- 
cellence of  your  commissariat.  Xo  army  was  ever  good 
for  anything  without  the  sinews  of  war,  and  I  believe 
that  in  time  of  jieace  those  sinews  consist  more  of  bread 
and  beef  than  of  gunpowder.  For  service,  give  me  the 
men  who  have  good  stomachs.  The  well-fed  soldier 
!iever  runs,  especially  just  after  dinner. 

Mr.  Commander  and  gentlemen  of  the  Amoskeag  Vet- 
erans, these  time-honored  uniforms  you  wear  bring  to 
mind  many  glorious  associations,  but  you  will  pardon  me 
if  I  refer  to  one  somewhat  [tersonal  in  its  nature.  These 
shad-bellied  coats  ( long  may  they  l)reast  the  battle  and 
the  breeze  I  )  bring  to  mind  the  times  when  the  salmon 
and  the  shad  had  the  right  of  free  navigation  in  the 
waters  of  Xew  Hampshire,  and  especially  at  Amoskeag. 
Xow  we  have  had  a  little  friendly  contest  with  a  sister 
State  to  regain  those  rights.  I  congratulate  you,  soldiers, 
on  the  peaceful  issue  of  those  negotiations,  so  that  you 
were  not  obliged  to  take  up  arms  and  march  with  colors 
flying  and  drums  Ideating  to  vindicate  State  rights.  AVlien 
tlie  shad  and  salmon  get  back  again  into  our  waters,  as 
tliere  is  a  fair  }iros}iect  that  they  will,  it  will  be  enough  to 
make  every  veteran  young  again. 

Pardon  me,  Mr.  Commander,  if  I  seem  to  unbend  a 
little  from  tlie  dignity  of  a  chief  magistrate,  or  to  relax  in 
that  strict  discipline  which  should  characterize  a  com- 
mander-in-chief. AVhile  so  many  of  your  previous  aimi- 
versaries  have  Ijeeii  darkened  by  the  clouds  of  war,  we 
can  surely  indulge  in  a  little  friendly  and  hopeful  merri- 
ment to-day.  We  have  learned,  I  think,  to  api)reciate  and 
resi'cct  that  spirit  which  in  time  of  jjcace  recognizes  the 
jirinciple  of  force  in  a  government,  and  seeks  to  keej)  it 
alive  and  active.     But  while  we   rejoice   that   vou   liave 


PROCLAMATION    FOR    FAST.  279 

revived  and  seek  by  appropriate  means  to  preserve  that 
happy  union  of  military  and  civil  strength  bequeathed  us 
by  Washington,  let  us  hope  that  each  returning  anni- 
versary will  find  peace  established  on  a  more  just  and  a 
firmer  basis,  and  the  States  in  a  more  equal  and  fraternal 
union. 

There  are  those  who  sometimes  sneer  at  holiday  sol- 
diers. I  cannot  join  in  that  feeling,  and  I  sincerely  hope 
that  in  our  day  there  may  not  be  occasion  for  any  other. 
Should  it  unfortunately  be  otherwise,  then  you  will 
demonstrate,  as  you  have  done  before  by  many  a  gallant 
soldier  from  your  ranks,  that  on  the  old  altar  burns  still 
tlie  sacred  fires  kindled  by  the  hand  of  Washington. 

The  ofiicial  proclanuition  by  Governor  Smyth,  aj>] joint- 
ing a  Fast  I^ay,  was  issued  in  accordance  with  time- 
honored  custom.  It  was  a  subject  of  comment  that  it 
was  signed  l>y  the  governor  and  the  governor-elect,  Gen- 
eral Ilarriman,  the  secretary  of  state,  having  been  elected 
as  Governor  Smyth's  successor. 

A  pr()cla:\iation 

FOR    A    HAY    (tF    FASTIX(;,  II  rMILIATIUX,  ANJ>    I'RAYEK. 

J  d(^,  with  advice  and  consent  of  the  council,  hereby 
a]i}'oint  Thursday,  the  fourth  day  of  Ajtril  next,  to  be  ob- 
served throughout  this  State  as  a  day  ol'  fasting,  humil- 
iation, and  j)rayer. 

I  earnestly  recommend  that  upon  that  day  all  the 
people,  not  prevented  by  duties  of  paramount  necessity, 
lay  aside  the  usual  avocatioiis  of  the  time,  assemble  in 
their  res[>ective  houses  of  worship,  and  lunnbly  acknowl- 
edge before  Almighty  (lod  their  manifold  sins  and  trans- 
gressions. And  let  us  all,  in  whatevei"  ]i]ace  wt'  may  l)e, 
endeavor  ti^  make  our  thoughts  and  feelings  conform  to 
tlie  outward  observance,  that  we  may  keep  an  acceptable 
fast  unto  the  Sovereign  Ruler  of  people  and  nations. 


280  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Esjtoeially  c»ught  we  to  call  to  mind,  and  seek  forgive- 
ness for,  tliose  transgressions  which  pertain  to  our  duties 
as  a  State  and  an  integral  part  of  the  nation.  Let  us 
remenil.)er  tliat  those  nations  wliieh  forget  God  are  de- 
stroyed without  remedy,  and  that  we  can  look  for  favor 
at  His  hands  only  when  coming  to  Him  in  the  way  of 
His  ai)pointment. 

Let  us  confess,  each  according  to  his  conscience,  that 
we  have  been  slow  to  perceive,  and  reluctant  to  execute, 
the  Divine  will,  in  letting  the  oppressed  go  free:  and 
that  we  have  not  rememhered,  as  we  ought,  the  hand  that 
brought  us  victorious  out  of  our  great  national  trial  and 
contest. 

Let  us  de[>lore  and  lament  the  [irevalence  of  crime  in 
our  midst,  and  that  intcm[>erance,  licentiousness,  profanity, 
and  Sabbath  breaking,  are  yet,  in  so  great  a  degree,  a 
snare  to  the  feet  of  the  young  and  a  reproach  to  the  old. 

Let  us  eonfess.  with  full  iiur}iose  of  amendment,  that 
we  have  not  occujiied  before  tlie  world  that  high  jiosition 
which  the  (iiver  of  all  our  blessings  has  a  right  to 
demand,  and  that  we  are  not  yet  guided  in  our  public 
policy,  or  our  private  conduct,  suthciently  l»y  His  word. 

For  tliese  and  nund)erless  other  reasons  let  us  l^e  admon- 
ished to  humble  ourselves,  remend»ering  that  "•Though 
the  Lord  be  high,  yet  hath  lie  respect  unto  the  lowly  :  but 
the  proud  be  knoweth  afar  off.'' 

Let  us  ["I'ay  our  Heavenly  Father  to  continue  the  fruit- 
ful seasons  and  the  reward  of  honest  industry:  that  lie 
will  [trotect  tbe  widow  and  the  orphan,  and  bless  the 
defenders  of  tbe  nation  who  bra\'ed  the  dreadful  perils  c>f 
war  to  preserw  it  from  destruction  :  that  He  will  help  u.-* 
to  remembei-  them  with  gratitude,  and  cherish  the  families 
of  tlie  tiilleii  wirli  warm  sympathy  and  generosity. 

Let  us  supplicate  His  favor  u}>on  our  rulers,  that  they 
may  I)e  animated  solely  by  one  unalteral)le  purpose  to  do 


CLEMEN'CY.  281 

ri<?lit  ill  the  fear  of  God,  and  recoustruct  our  liepublic 
upon  the  eternal  principles  of  righteout<ness,  truth,  human- 
ity, justice,  and  liberty. 

And  finally,  may  we  all  on  this  day,  with  sincere  peni- 
tence and  true  faith  in  the  mediation  and  atonement  of 
our  Saviour,  find  pardon  and  reconciliation  with  God. 

Given  at  the  council  cliaml)er  in  (yoncord,  this  fifteenth 
day  of  March,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  sixty-seven,  and  of  the  United  States 
of  America  the  ninetieth. 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

Bn'IIIjs  ExcellciKy  the  (lovemor,  with  advice  and  eonseut  of  C'oimeil. 
Walter  Haimuman.  Sccrelari/  of  Stab . 

On  the  afternoon  of  Fast  Day,  Governor  Smyth,  with 
a  party  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  visited  the  state-prison, 
where  the  convicts  were  assembled  in  the  cha[)el.  After 
recitations  by  Mrs.  Miller,  of  (V)ncord,  and  some  kind 
^^■ords  from  the  governor  and  others,  the  impromj)tii  exer- 
cises were  closed  with  singing  "  Kind  A\'ords  never  die," 
several  of  the  jirisoners  joining.  The  officials  and  sjiec- 
tators  then  went  through  the  prison  into  the  guard-room, 
where  the  governor,  unobserved  by  those  |>resent,  re- 
quested Warden  Mayo  to  bring  in  a  certain  [irisoner. 
When  the  astonished  convict  found  himself  in  the  center 
of  the  coiu-ourse  of  ladies,  Governor  Smyth  took  him 
by  the  hand  and  said  :  — 

''  My  friend,  about  twelve  months  ago  you  were  com- 
mitt(Ml  to  this  prison  for  five  years  for  the  alleged  crime 
of  passing  counterfeit  money.  Soon  after  your  incar- 
ceration circumstances  came  to  light  tending  to  prove 
that,  although  a  counterfeit  l>ill  [massed  through  your 
hands,  it  was  used  h\  you  in  an  entirely  innocent  manner, 
and  that  you  were  unwittingly  the  dupe  of  a  scoundrel 
who  fied  the  State  and  has  never  been  arrested.      \  imme- 


282  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

diately  ordered  a  full  investigation  of  your  case,  and  I 
am  thoroughly  convinced  that  you  are  an  innocent  man 
and  serving  out  an  unjust  sentence.  The  constitution  of 
the  State  gives  me  the  power  to  open  the  doors  of  this 
prison,  and  in  the  lawful  exercise  of  that  power  I  now 
grant  you  a  full  and  free  pardon.  This  very  hour  the 
Avarden  will  relieve  you  of  a  convict's  uniform  and  give 
you  a  citizen's  dress.  You  have  been  a  good  man  within 
these  walls,  and  Avhile  I  and  my  friends  here  live,  we  will 
everywhere  hear  testimony  that  your  imprisonment  leaves 
no  stain  upon  your  character.  A  dear  wife  and  loving 
sister  have  prayed  for  your  release,  and  I  now  restore  you 
to  their  hands,  to  be  once  more  their  comfort  and  support." 
As  the  governor  closed  his  remarks  the  poor  man, 
overjoyed  with  happiness,  trembled  in  every  limb,  and  his 
face  was  wet  with  tears.  Not  a  person  in  the  audience 
looked  unmoved  upon  the  scene. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

VISIT    OF    THE    MANCHESTER    SCHOOLS    TO    CONCORD. 

One  of  tlie  most  pleasing  incidents  wliicli  occurred 
during  Governor  Smyth's  administration,  was  tlie  visit  of 
the  scliool-children  of  Manchester  to  the  Capitol  and  pub- 
lic institutions  at  Concord,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  fol- 
lowing :  — 

Executive  Depahtment, 
CONX'OHU,  N.  H.,  April  29,   1«(57. 

James  O.  Adams,  Esq.,  Sup't  of  Public  Instruction, 
Manchester  : 
Mjl  Dear  Sir :  1  have  the  lionor  to  tender  to  yourself, 
and  through  you  to  the  school  committee,  the  teachers  of 
the  public  schools,  the  }»u}>ils  of  the  high  school  and  of 
the  Xortli  and  South  grammar  schools,  an  invitation  to 
visit  the  Ca}dtol  and  public  institutions  located  here,  on 
some  day  in  the  early  part  of  next  month.  Should  the 
invitation  be  accepted,  be  pleased  to  advise  me  at  an  early 
day  of  the  exact  number  accepting,  and  I  will  provide  for 
their  transportation  at  my  own  expense,  by  sjiecial  train 
leaving  Mancliester  at  about  nine  a.  m.  and  returning  at 
four  p.  M.     I  am,  sir. 

Respectfully  your  (obedient  servant, 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

The  railroad  train,  bringing  from  forty  to  fifty  teachers 
and  nearly  six  hundred  scholars,  reached  the  station  in 
C\)ncor(l  about  lia]f-}»ast  nine  in  the  morning,  where  the 
teachers  and  pu}>ils  were  i-eceived  by  the  Conc<jrd  board 
ot    education.      Samuel   C.    F^astman,    Es<j.,    secretary   of 


284  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

the  board,  made  a  welcominu-  address,  which  was  re- 
vsponded  to  hy  James  O.  Adams.  Esq..  the  superintendent 
of  the  schools  in  Manchester.  A  procession  was  then 
formed,  consisting  of  the  schools  of  the  two  cities,  teach- 
ers, members  of  the  board  of  education,  several  clergy- 
men, and  others,  and  with  a  l»and  of  music  proceeded  to 
the  State  House.  Here  the  cliildren  were  received  by 
Governor  Smytli,  Mr.  Su})erintendent  Adams  making  the 
[iresentation  s[>eech.  to  which  the  governor  replied  nearly 
as  follows  :  — 

'''  Mr.  8u[)erintendent,  Teachers  and  Pa[)ils  of  Manches- 
ter Schools:  I  am  exceedingly  hapiy  to  greet  you  at  the 
Capitol  of  our  noble  State,  which  during  the  last  two  years 
by  the  votes  of  the  people  has  been  my  otHcial  home.  Most 
heartily  do  1  welcome  you  to  its  halls,  which  many  of  you, 
I  doul>t  not,  will  worthily  occupy  in  future  years.  As 
your  eyes  shall  gaze  u[ion  the  blood-stained  l)attle-iiags 
here  displayed,  all  tattered  and  torn  in  the  strug<i-les  of  the 
battle-tield,  and  so  nobly  l>c»rne  by  Xew  Ham[isliire's 
l)rave  sons  during  the  Terrible  contest  through  which  we 
have  recently  [)assed,  you  will  prize  mc)re  than  ever  before 
our  glorious  institutions  they  have  l>y  their  blood  pre- 
served, and  which  you  and  I  and  all  the  peo[)le  are  now 
enjoying.  May  these  signiticant  and  ebxjuent  eml>lems 
of  the  sutiering  and  }iatient  endurance  of  our  gallant  sol- 
diei's  remind  you  of  the  debt  we  all  owe  these  noble  men, 
and  the  obligations  we  are  under  to  cherish  the  memories 
of  the  fallen.  See  to  it.  my  young  friends,  that  the  }ia- 
trjiitie  sentiments  awakened  in  your  hearts  to-(hiy  In'  these 
sad  emblems,  grow  with  your  growth  and  strengthen  with 
your  strength.  Vou  cannot  Init  l»e  favorably  impressed 
with  the  l)eautiful  city  of  Concord  and  its  good  [»eople, 
who  have  so  eordially  and  handsomely  welcomed  vou 
here  to-day. 

•"This  exchange  of  civilities  will  do  much  to  f 'ster  and 
cultivate  that  c">urtes\-  and  o'txid  feel iuiJ- between  the  sister 


-MANCHESTER    SCHOOLS    VISIT    CONCORD,  285 

cities  so  much  to  be  desired  l)y  us  all.  I  hope  and  trust, 
my  friends,  that  youi-  visit  to  the  (^a}>itol  aiKl  t»ther  insti- 
tutions will  prove  agreeable  and  pleasant  to  y(»u  all,  and 
that  y(»u  will  return  home  with  a  truer  knowledge  and 
better  appreciation  of  our  good  old  State  ami  its  govern- 
ment, and  with  an  increased  desire  and  determination  to  be 
better  })re}tared  to  faithfully  perform  all  your  <luties  in  the 
various  spheres  to  which  you  arc  or  may  be  hereafter 
called. 

"  It  will  now  give  me  great  pleasure  to  receive  each  of 
you  at  the  council  chamber  in  a  less  formal  maimer  thaii 
I  can  do  liere,  and  then  introduce  you  to  tlie  various  apart- 
ments of  this  splendid  edifice  which  the  lil)erality  of  the 
citizens  of  Concord  has  made  an  ornament  to  the  State ; 
after  which  I  shall  be  happy  to  accompany  you  to  tlie 
state-] )rison  and  insane  asylum,  of  neither  of  which  insti- 
tutions I  pray  any  of  you  may  ever  become  inmates."' 

The  Manchester  scholars  then  passed  through  the  coun- 
cil chamber,  where  they  were  individually  introduced  to 
tlie  goveriu)r,  who  shook  hands  with  them  all.  As  the 
Xortli  Grammar  Scliool  i)upils  were  passing  through  tlie 
room,  Miss  (^ara  Glidden,  in  behalf  of  her  associates, 
})resented  liis  excellency  witli  a  beautiful  boiujuet  of  rare 
greenhouse  liowers.  After  the  introduction,  the  scholars 
had  time  to  examine  the  battle-fiags,  and  to  visit  the  vari- 
ous apartments  of  the  State  House.  They  then  repaired 
to  the  representatives"  hall,  where  they  enjoyed  a  colla- 
tion which  they  had  brouglit  with  them.  Meantime  the 
Concord  board  of  education  gave  the  Maiu-hester  school 
officials  and  some  invited  guests  a  bountiful  collation  at 
the  Eagle  llotel.  Mr.  Eastman  ]»resided.  Brief  after- 
dinner  s])eeches  were  made  by  Governor  Smyth,  General 
JIarriman  (govenu)r-elect),  ex-Senator  Fogi^,  Uev.  \)y. 
Bouton,  ]\ev.  Mr.  Clatlin,  and  AVilliam  Little,  of  .Nfaii- 
chester. 


286  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Among  others  at  the  table  were  Mayor  Abbott,  Adju- 
tant-General Head,  and  Colonel  D.  A.  Warde,  of  the 
governor's  statt'.  After  the  collation  Colonel  Parker's 
pupils  gathered  in  front  of  the  Capitol  and  went  through 
some  verv  creditable  military  gymnastic  exercises. 

The  visitors  next  marched  to  the  prison,  where  they  ex- 
amined the  cells  and  workshops.  Within  that  establish- 
ment the  scene  was  one  creating  emotions  in  which 
pleasure  and  sorrow  were  mingled  in  somewhat  equal 
parts.  After  the  teachers,  schools,  and  others  in  the  pro- 
cession had  been  arranged  in  the  order  for  seeing  and 
hearing  to  the  l>est  advantage,  the  prisoners  (some  over 
100)  Avere  marched  from  their  cells  and  arranged  in  liles 
on  a  side  of  the  inclosure  opposite  the  schools.  Here  an 
address  was  made  l)y  Governor  Smyth  to  tlie  prisoners, 
as  follows  :  — 

"Inmates  of  the  Prison  :  During  my  official  connection 
with  this  institution,  it  has  been  my  desire  and  practice  to 
have  all  things  done  for  yf»ur  comfort  and  hapjiiness  con- 
sistent with  }iroper  security  and  discipline,  and  now,  as 
my  official  relations  with  you  are  about  to  be  severed,  it 
gives  mc  satisfaction  to  bear  testimony,  before  you  all, 
how  invai'iably  my  effi:)rts  in  this  direction  have  been  ap- 
[ireciate<l  and  met  with  coi'responding  good  conduct  on 
the  }>art  of  eveiy  one  of  you.  This  jiroves  to  my  mind 
that  I  have  made  no  mistake  in  this  regard. 

"  To-(hiv  I  have  invited  the  teachers  and  children  of  the 
schools  of  ^^anchester  to  \isit  you,  not  to  indulge  tlieir 
idle  curiosity,  but  that  you  and  they  may  l;)e  made  better 
thereby.  As  you  look  upon  the  liriglit  and  innocent 
faces  of  childhood,  a  ]»rivilege  T  know  you  rarely  enjoy, 
your  luinds  will  be  called  back  to  your  innocent  days, 
an<l  those  of  your  brothers  and  sisters  and  early  plav- 
mates.  ami  you  will  be  reminded  of  the  early  and  pure 
motiier"s   love,   and  your  own  dear  children,  shut   away 


MANCHESTER    SCHOOLS    VISIT   CONCORD.  287 

from  you  now.  And  as  you  tliink  of  those  happy  and 
innocent  da3's  now  past,  I  know  you  will  bitterly  regret 
that  you  ever  departed  from  the  path  of  rectitude,  and 
you  will  here  resolve  hereafter  to  live  a  life  of  honesty 
and  integrity;  and  may  (iod  give  you  the  strength  and 
determination  to  keep  these  good  resolutions  when  you 
are  again  called  to  meet  the  temptations  of  the  world. 
We  came  not  here  to  censure  or  discourage  you,  but  to 
pity  and  encourage  and  comfort  you  in  your  good  resolves 
and  hopes.  It  is  not  too  late  for  most  of  you  yet  to 
become  useful  members  of  society,  and  receive  pardon 
and  forgiveness  from  God  and  men.  I  doul)t  not  you 
will  be  remend)ered  to-night  and  hereafter  in  the  evening 
[trayers  of  many  of  these  friends  and  children  ;  and  may 
your  prayers  and  theirs  and  those  of  your  dear  friends 
everywhere  bo  heard  by  Him  whose  pardon  we  all  con- 
stantly need, 

"  Children  of  the  schools,  you  are  soon  to  meet  the 
temptations  by  which  these  men  have  fallen.  Oh,  how 
little  you  now  know  of  the  snares  that  will  lie  thrown  in 
your  }»athway  in  after  life.  If  you  have  not  the  moral 
and  religious  strength  to  successfully  resist  them,  their 
experience  will  l)e  yours.  If  these  men  could  speak  to 
you,  they  Avould  say,  '  Take  warning  from  us,  and  persist- 
ently strive  against  e\'ery  thought,  antl  the  first  and  snudl- 
est  attempt  at  wrong  doing.'  May  this  interview  l)e 
protitable  to  us  all."" 

The  liev.  Mr.  Holman,  chaplain  of  the  prison,  re})lied 
in  very  iitting  terms.  Some  of  the  prisoners  were  dee[)]y 
aflV'cted,  while  to  all  the  s}»ectacle  was  of  an  impressive  and 
suggestive  character.  At  the  eonclusion  of  the  addi-esses 
the  pupils  sang  several  pieces,  alter  wliieh  the  coii\iets 
proceeded  to  their  sevei'al  [ilaces  in  the  workshops.  After 
the  schools  had  gone  into  tlu'  \-arious  a[iartnieiits  of  the 
institution,  the  [procession  was  reformed,  and   passed  out 


288  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

of  tlic  prison  bv  the  gate  tliroiigli  u  hole  in  wliicli  the 
notorious  Sliinboni  nunle  liis  csca]ie  iii  the  ])reeeding 
Deeeniljer. 

Ifeaching  tlie  higli  school  editiee,  the  »'om}iany  was 
received  l)v  Mr.  Woolson.  In  the  sjiaeions  hall  the 
schools  assembled,  where  they  rested  a  while,  i>reparatory 
to  visiting  tlie  asylum  tor  tlie  insane.  \'ocal  and  instru- 
mental music  occu]»ied  the  l)rief  time  the  company  was 
in  the  halh 

At  tlie  asylum,  the  great  company  was  j-eceived  in 
an  address  of  welcome  by  Josepli  B.  Walker,  Es(|.,  a 
member  of  the  board  of  trustees,  Mr.  Superintendent 
Adams,  of  Manchester,  replying.  After  passing  through 
the  a])artments  and  over  a  portion  of  the  grounds  of  the 
asylum,  the  long  procession  marched  to  the  railroad 
station,  and  the  Manchester  visitors  were  soon  on  their 
homeward  way.  The  occasion  was  one  of  great  interest, 
no  circumstance  occurring  to  mar  the  pleasure  thereof, 
and  will  exert  a  salutary  influence  upon  the  ]>eo]ile  of  the 
two  cities. 

The  young  ladies  of  the  Manchester  North  (itrammar 
Scliool,  through  one  of  their  numljer,  presented  the 
governor  with  a  beautiful  bouquet,  as  an  evidence  of  their 
gratitudi;  for  his  kind  attentions,  and  he  thus  acknowl- 
edg»'(l  its  reception  :  — 

(•()N<<)Ki).   :\I:iy   1,   l.<<67. 

Miss  Ci.aka  ( ii.iDDKX  :  The  elegant  l)ou(piet  I  had  the 
•lonoi'  ti»  i'ecei\-e  fi't)m  youi"  hands,  in  behalf  of  the  young 
ladies  of  the  Manchester  Xortli  (Grammar  School,  on  the 
ph-asant  occasion  of  their  recent  visit  to  this  chambei-, 
descrxes  from  me  a  more  titting  acknowledgment  than 
I  was  in  the  lini-ry  of  the  moment  able  to  make. 

Re  pleased  to  accept,  then,  at  this  late  hour,  my  wai'inest 
tliauks  tor  youi'  beautiful  jiresent  and  the  mo>t  agreeable 
'•  iiriiiliiin  nt    i-oii\-eyed    in    its   presentation.      Be    assured. 


MANCHESTER    SCHOOLS    VISIT  CONCORD.  289 

my  fair  friends,  that  this  kind  manifestation  of  your 
remembrance  is  higlily  appreciated  by  me,  and  that 
though  the  fragrant  iiowers  comprising  tlie  bouquet  will 
fade  and  lose  tlieir  sweetness,  yet  the  one  more  beautiful 
formed  by  the  young  ladies  then  surrounding  me  will 
never  fade  from  my  memory,  and  my  prayer  is  that  their 
virtues,  unlike  the  fading  iiowers,  may  shine  brighter  and 
brighter  until  transplanted  to  the  garden  of  eternal  bloom. 
T  have  the  honor  to  remain. 

Very  respectfully  your  obedient  servant, 

FREDEKICK  SMYTH. 


CKAPTEK    XXVIII. 

VALEDICTORY    urBERXATORIAL    MESSAGE. 

AVuEN  the  leofislatiux'  assembled  in  June,  1867,  Gov- 
ernor   Smyth   delivered  u   valedietorv  address,  whieh  is 
as  follows  :  — 
Senators  and  Representatives:  — 

In  ordinary  times  the  expediency  of  '^)ronouncing  a 
valedictory  address  miLjlit  be  doubted:  Ijut  while  I  could 
waive  all  personal  considerations  and  let  this  occasion 
pass  with  merely  words  of  courtesy  and  of  ]>arting,  I  am 
renunded  that  you.  gentlemen  of  the  legislature,  and  the 
people  whose  re[)resentatives  you  are,  should  receix'C  some 
toiiicitd  acknowlcflgment  at  my  hands,  not  only  for  the 
ijratifying  unanimity  of  your  su}»port,  Ijut  for  the  intel- 
ligence and  foresight  with  which  your  i>redecess'irs  have 
pi-o\ided  for  the  general  welfare  of  the  State  in  times 
of  peculiar  difHculty  and  ilanger.  X'o  matter  how  great 
tlie  ability  or  i-esources  of  an  executive  othcer,  his  best 
eftoi'ts  will  be  thwarted  if  called  to  })reside  over  a  divided 
or  irresolute  people,  or  a  jealous  and  hesitating  legisla- 
ture:  and  desire  to  [tlace  here  u]ton  record  my  l»elief 
that  to  the  courage  and  constancy  of  the  i'eo[)le,  and  the 
wise  and  judicious  enactments  of  the  law-making  [lower. 
Xew  iram[>shire  o^ves  much  of  her  present  high  posi- 
tion and  freedom  tVom  financial  embarrassment.  Her 
bond>  are  now  at  })ar  in  the  markets,  and  so  good  is  her 
word  esteemed  that  no  rate  al»ove  six  [ler  cent  per  annum 
has  been  paid  in  funding  the  large  floating  debt  of  the 
State  during  the  })ast  yeai-.  I  am  bound,  also,  in  honor 
aiid  fair  dealinu'  to  sav  that  whatever  mav  have  l)een  the 


VALEDICTORY    MEvSSA(JE.  291 

difterencos  of  opinion  among;  us,  there  lias  been  no  fac- 
tious opposition  from  any  source  to  measures  necessary 
for  the  public  credit,  but  I  have  uniformly  received  the 
hearty  co-operation  of  men  of  all  parties  in  this  ditticult 
work. 

There  are  certain  facts  which  may  add  to  the  estima- 
tion in  wliich  the  financial  condition  of  the  State  is  held, 
which  can  only  pro[)erly  be  uttered  at  the  completion  of 
a  term  of  public  service. 

Two  years  ago  I  assumed  the  duties  of  the  office  which 
1  aui  about  to  lea\'e,  under  extraordinary  and  trying  cir- 
cumstances. A  long  and  bloody  war  had  Just  termiiuited, 
and  in  the  faint  flush  of  the  light  of  returning  day.  the 
American  people  had  but  just  begun  to  realize  the  trials 
through  whieli  they  liad  passed.  As  the  clouds  rolled 
away  and  new  (hities  aiul  new  ol>ligations  were  revealed 
to  us.  it  became  necessary  to  re-arrange  our  affaii'S  and  to 
prepare  our  State  for  a  new  t-aree]-.  that  she  might  l)ear 
lierself  as  creditably  in  peace  as  she  lia<l  done  in  war. 
Here  at  the  threshold  1  was  met  with  a  heavy  floating 
debt,  which  ap])eale(l  in  vain  to  an  exhausted  treasury  for 
payment,  while  the  l)anks  and  money-lenders  of  the  State 
were  burdened  with  her  obligations.  I  therefore  addressed 
my  attention  at  once  to  the  condition  of  the  tinances,  A\ith 
the  di'tcrmined  }>uri)0se  to  provide  for  the  wants  of  the 
treasury,  so  that  its  obligations  should  l)e  ju'omptly  met. 
It  was  necessary  to  raise  the  credit  of  the  State,  and  the 
price  of  her  securities,  and  to  [)rcicure  money  at  the  least 
ex]»ense  for  funding  thi'  floating  debt,  and  also  to  asc-er- 
tain  aiul  properly  ]iresent  all  our  Just  claims  upon  the 
(4eneral  Government,  and  to  reduce  oui-  ex]ienses  so  far  as 
possible  to  their  accustomed  basis  in  times  of  ])eace :  all 
of  which  has  been  accomplished.  And  here,  gentlemen, 
allow  me  once  for  all  to  acknowledge,  \\ith  profound  sen- 
sibility, the  cordial  and  unwavering  support  of  my  conn- 


292  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

cil  and  the  co-ordinate  branches  of  the  Government.  If 
one  seemed  to  lead,  it  was  by  virtue  of  his  position,  while 
a  common  and  noble  purpose  animated  all.  The  people, 
indeed,  felt  their  burdens,  for  they  were  heavy,  but  they 
did  not  falter,  and  are  now  about  to  reap  the  reward  of 
their  constancy.  A  large  portion  of  the  expenses  of  the 
war  have  been  paid,  and  the  remainder  so  adjusted  that, 
should  strict  economy  be  observed  in  our  State  expendi- 
tures, the  taxes  may  be  rapidly  reduced  and  still  the 
reduction  of  the  debt  be  annually  continued. 

In  the  difficult  adjustment  of  our  military  aflairs,  you 
will  agree  with  me  in  warm  approval  of  the  energy  and 
efficiency  of  the  adjutant-general,  whose  work  has  in  all 
cases  been  well  performed.  When  it  has  been  my  grate- 
ful duty  to  extend  a  welcoming  hand,  in  behalf  of  the  peo- 
ple of  the  State,  to  our  brave  returning  soldiers,  he  has 
forwarded  my  purpose  with  unflagging  interest  and  zeal. 
You  Avill  not  forget  that  around  his  department  all  the 
memories  of  the  contest  now  cluster.  The  long  roll  of 
honor  is  there.  There  are  gathered  tlie  blood-stained 
buttle-tlags,  and  there  will  always  be  found  those  associa- 
tions wliicli  should  inspire  us  with  a  love  of  country,  and 
an  a]ipreciation  of  the  services  of  those  who  gave  their 
lives  and  shed  their  bhood  for  those  l)lessings  which  God 
bestowed  when  he  gave  us  tlie  victory. 

Dejiarting  from  this  general  style  of  remark,  I  hasten 
to  pi-esent,  in  the  briefest  manner,  a  review  of  the  most 
inijiortant  measures  of  my  adiniiiisti'ation  :  — 

FINANCES. 

State  tax .*7o2,01G  44 

Kailnnifl  tax 192,159  26 

.Savin<rs  bank  tax .'J!^,384  37 

Unitt'd  States  war  claims           ....  1.0,821  88 

("ivil  cornniissions     ......  ,")42  UO 

I'ublic  projierty 822  16 


VALEDICTORY    MESSAGE. 


293 


State  bonds 

State  notes 

Interest    .... 

Cash  in  treasury  June  1,  18GG 


$1,. 0.50, 780  00 

.      o51,;il9  .50 

8,099  38 

l.')7,«78  8.5 

$:5,09;5,82:;  84 


The  disburscnieiits  for  the  year  amounted  to  $8,038,- 


399.36,  and  were  for  the  following  pui 
Salaries     .... 
Legislature  and  council     . 
IVIilitar}'  expenses      ... 
Towns.     Railroad  tax  dividends 

Savings  bank  tax  dividend 

State  aid     . 

Literary  fund 

Commissions 
Legislative  resolves  . 
Printing     ..... 
Charitable  and  penal  institutions 
Adjutant   and  (luartermaster-general's  de 

meut       .... 
Voluntcei'  militia 
State  V)on(ls  j)aid 
State  notes  paid 
Interest      .... 
State  House  yard 
Abatement  of  tax 
Bouiitv  on  wild  animaK    . 


Cash  in  tnasury  June  1,  1867 

Fundeil  (U'l>t       ..... 
Not  funded  .  ... 

Less  cash  in  treasury  and  assets 

Total  debt  .June  1.  iStw     . 

The  debt  Jun<'  1.  istit),  less  as-et-,  wa- 

Heduetion  of  debt  past  year 


[»oses : 


part- 


$;54,2-k; 

09 

40,.5o.'> 

90 

19,2.58 

71 

89,8X3 

74 

49,4(52 

88 

9.5, o47 

74 

9.8:5:) 

;5i 

0.(5(54 

:39 

1(5,8.0,5 

19 

20,819 

88 

44.;»41 

12 

11.007 

87 

]]..sl(; 

(54 

100.000 

(»0 

.1(S4.22,S 

74 

:!ls.i,s;; 

71 

4.098 

82 

I'.H 

DO 

.S;'',ii;)is,;!!»9  :5(5 

,5.5.124  4.S 

.S;5,0!i;;,8l^;5  84 

S:>. 70 1.1.59  0(5 

.     lo9.(i;;7  .50 

.S;l.''<b'.79(5  ,5(5 

(;;;.oi9  (51 

•■?:;. 7  17.77(5  9,5 

4.0n-j.o7o  ];; 

.     2.5i.;;i:;  ]^ 


294  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

The  governor  and  council  were  authorized  by  act  of 
the  legislature  of  last  year,  to  issue  bond.s  amounting  to 
$1,800,000,  bearing  such  rate  of  interest  as  might  be 
deemed  most  expedient,  for  the  purjiose  of  funding  the 
floating  debt.  Six  ]»er  cent  was  tixed  upon  as  being  the 
lowest  rate  of  currency  interest  with  which  an}"  hope  of 
selling  the  securities  at  par  could  reasonably  be  enter- 
tained, in  the  face  of  the  abundance  of  undoubted  obliga- 
tions bearing  a  higher  rate  of  interest,  which  flooded  the 
money  nuirket.  The  l)onds  have  been  issued  and  sold  to 
the  amount  of  about  fourteen  hundred  thousand  dollars 
at  par,  with  which  and  other  funds  of  the  treasury  all  the 
eight  per  cent  notes  have  been  paid,  and  all  others  except 
the  small  balance  of  §109,000,  which  we  have  not  been 
able  to  })rocure,  although  the  treasurer  has  used  every 
eftbrt  to  have  them  presented.  Many  of  these  outstand- 
ing notes  were  given  to  soldiers  during  the  war,  some  of 
whicli  will  })robably  never  be  found.  So  much  of  the 
balance  of  those  bonds  as  may  be  reffuired  to  pay  these 
notes,  or  any  bonds  falling  due  the  present  year,  will 
soon  be  absorbed  by  the  ordinary  demand  for  them  at 
the  treasurer's  office.  The  unsold  bonds,  amounting  to 
$3, 190. 800  of  a  prior  issue,  and  the  [dates  from  which  the 
same  were  printed,  have  been  destroyed,  agreeal)ly  to  the 
ju'ovisions  of  that  act. 

Tht'  negotiation  of  this  large  amount  the  jiast  year  at  six 
yier  cent,  subject  to  taxation,  while  undoubted  securities 
have  commanded  seven  \>er  cent  and  above,  and  (govern- 
ment bonds,  exempted  from  taxation,  at  a  higher  rate  of 
intcri'st,  liaxc  abounded,  has  been  no  easy  task,  but  shows 
the  high  opinion  of  money-lenders  abroad  of  the  credit 
of  New  Ilanijishire.  Xo  legislation  regarding  the  flnan- 
(•es  will  be  needed  for  the  [iresent  year,  as  all  re4uired 
]>ayments  are  now  provided  for :  and  I  congratulate  my 
successor  that  he  will  l>e  relieved  I'rom  any  labor  or  anxi- 
ety reliititiL''  to  tinancial  matters. 


VALEDICTORY    .MESSAGE.  295 

Hon.  T>.  D.  Ranlett,  State  auditor,  wliose  services  liave 
l)eeii  so  valuable,  having  accepted  a  more  lucrative  posi- 
tion abroad,  a  few  weeks  since  tendered  his  resignation. 
Believing  that  the  necessity  which  created  the  office  no 
longer  existed,  and  that  its  usefulness  had  consequently 
ceased,  I  did  not  deem  it  advisable  to  embarrass  your 
action  by  inducting  a  new  and  inex]>erienced  person  into 
the  office.  His  resignation,  therefore,  was  not  accejtted, 
and,  though  absent  from  the  State  a  jtart  of  tlie  time,  he 
has  continued  to  diseharge  sucli  duties  as  were  retpiired, 
and  you  will  have  in  his  able  rei^urt  the  advantage  of  his 
ex[)erience  and  familiar  knowledge  of  the  artairs  in  his 
department.  I  sec  no  reason  win"  the  governor  and  coun- 
cil may  not  now,  as  in  times  past,  properly  jterform  the 
duties  rctpiired  of  this  officer,  since  the  great  amount  of 
business  growing  out  of  the  war  has  been  substantially 
completed,  rnnecessary  offices  increase  ex[»ense,  ci-eate 
confusion,  and  often  render  accounts  difficult  to  be  under- 
stood. 

The  total  expenditures  of  Xe\\'  Ham])shire  for  war  jiur- 
])Oses  amount  to  $6,852, (!78.  Of  this  amount,  there  has  been 
])ai(l  for  bounties  -^2,389,025.  For  the  reimbursement 
to  towns  of  aid  furnished  families  of  soldiers,  -SI, 8:35, 085. 
There  has  been  reimbursed  to  the  State  by  the  General 
(government,  for  war  expenses,  §897,122,  much  of  which 
has  been  obtained  after  repeated  rejet-tions.  Ibit  little  more 
may  be  exjtected  from  this  sorirct'  without  action  of  Con- 
irress.  The  ex}>enses  incurred  l)y  cities  and  towns  on  ac- 
count of  the  war,  including  S905, 512.  Tnited  States  boun- 
ties advanced,  amount  to  §7,250,541.  Tlie  amount  which 
has  been  i-eimbursed  by  the  Unite<l  States  tor  bounties  a<l- 
vanced  is  §475,15!' ;  §410,107  has  been  paid  to  tlie  towns 
to  which  it  belonged,  and  §(i5.(l52  is  now  in  the  bands  of 
the  State  ti'easurer,  having  recently  been  received.  Tiiis. 
with  some  §10,000  mori',  jiromised  in  a  few  days,  will  be 
}»aid  to  the  towns  entitled  to  it.  as  soon  as  adjusted.     Moi"e 


296  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

of  this  claim  can  probably  be  obtained,  if  the  efforts 
which  liave  been  made  to  procure  what  has  already  been 
received  are  persisted  in. 

As  the  foundation  of  all  true  financial  prosperity,  allow 
lue  next  a  word  u[»on  measures  for  the  encouragement  of 
agriculture.  The  land  script  which  was  awarded  Xew 
Hampshire  by  Congress  for  the  foundation  of  an  agricul- 
tural college  has  been  sold,  and  the  proceeds,  amounting 
to  $80,000.  have  been  invested  in  State  bonds.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  the  connection  of  tliis  branch  of  education 
with  Dartmouth  College  will  be  of  great  service  to  those 
who  desire  to  add  to  the  labor  of  the  farm  a  knowledge 
of  those  seieutitic  }>rinciples  upon  which  good  farming 
rests.  The  fair  of  the  Xew  England  Society,  held  within 
our  borders,  coutril)uted  much  to  awaken  an  interest  in 
the  general  subjeet,antl  to  promote  inipiiry  in  the  true  di- 
rection. In  connection  with  this  matter,  I  may  remark 
that  indi\idii;il  ex})lorations  of  our  publie  lands  the  past 
year  have  added  much  to  the  knowledge  of  their  value 
and  of  their  mineral  resources. 

treasures  are  in  a  satisfactory  state  of  ju'ogress  for  the 
restoration  of  the  tish  in  our  rivers,  whieh  once  so  plen- 
teonsly  inhabited  them.  ^^ays  have  l)een  constructed 
over  the  dams  at  Lawrence  and  Lowell  at  considerable 
expense  ])V  th^'  State  of  Massaehusetts,  whieh,  \\itli  some 
modification,  jiromise  to  prove  successful  in  accomplish- 
ing the  object  sought.  I  am  glad  to  commend  the  hearty 
co-operation  of  that  commonwealth  in  this  entei'prisc. 

"^riie  condition  ot'  the  state-prison  has  been  carefully 
consi(U're<l  <lui'ing  my  administration.  For  many  years 
the  I'att'  paid  foi-  labor  of  con\-icts  has  ])een  forty  cents 
pel"  day.  and  a  fi\-c  years'  conti-act  at  this  rate  ex[)ires  in 
August  next,  'i'lie  warden  \\as  instructed  in  Januai-y 
la>t  to  ad\-ci'tisc  for  proposals  t'oi"  this  lal)or.  which 
resulted  in  a  contract  with  res[ionsilile  parties  lor  two 
thirds  of  tli-'  ne-n  at   ninety  cents   pel'  day  for  five   vears. 


VALEDICTORY    MESSA(}E.  297 

and  seveuty-tive  cents  per  day  for  tlie  remaining  third  for 
three  years,  and  at  tlie  expiration  of  three  years  all  of  the 
men  at  the  tirst-named  price.  By  an  act  of  the  last  letfis- 
lature,  the  governor  and  council  were  requested,  if  they 
deemed  it  advisable,  to  procure  plans  and  estinuites  of 
costs  for  eidarging  the  prison.  Tpon  investigation,  while 
we  were  unahle  to  ap}>rovc  of  the  [irescnt  buildings,  we 
were  satisiie<l  that  the  alterations  necessary  for  any  essen- 
tial imi)rovenient  must  be  so  radical  and  expensive  that 
you  would  be  unwilling  to  increase  the  burdens  of  the 
treasury  at  [»rescnt  by  an  enterprise  of  this  character.  As 
the  prison  seems  to  have  l)een  substantially  self-sustain- 
ing in  the  past  on  less  than  half  the  recei])ts  for  labor  to 
be  realized  in  the  future,  I  am  gratified  to  believe  that 
this  arrangement  will  enable  you  to  act  untrammeled  by 
the  considerations  which  have  governed  us. 

I  may  also  congratulate  you  on  the  re\'isii»ii  of  the 
statutes,  which  has  been  aeeomplished  by  the  abU'  and 
learned  commission  apjiointed  for  that  ]iur[>ose.  The  im- 
portance of  the  work  will  l)e  reeognizt'd  by  all  who  knoA\' 
the  value  of  systematic-  and  well-arranged  statute  l»ooks. 

At  the  close  of  the  war,  the  State  was  without  any  or- 
ganized militia.  With  the  aid  of  the  adjutant-general, 
whose  services  in  this  direction  we  shall  evei-  i-emember. 
the  work  of  organizing  the  State  militia,  in  accordance 
with  the  present  laws,  has  been  successfully  accompiishetl. 
and  Xew  iram[>sliire  can  now  boast  of  a  military  organiz- 
ation believed  to  be  the  bi'st  she  has  e\ei'  enjoyed. 

A  \()lume  of  State  papers,  [)repared  by  the  liev.  Dr. 
Xathaniel  IJoiiton,  uiider  authority  of  a  commission 
issued  by  tlu'  governor  and  council,  is  now  nearly  ready 
for  publication,  and  will  consist,  first,  «»f  the  very  earliest 
provim-ial  ]^apers  and  documents  that  can  be  Ibund.  from 
1629  to  1050:  second,  of  the  ancient  pajiers  and  records 
found  in  the  othce  <4'  the  secretary  of  state  of  ^hlssachu- 
setts,  from  lt!41  to   ItJ^O.  while  New  llanqishiiv  was  sub- 


298  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

ject  to  the  jurisdiction  of  tliat  State  ;  third,  of  the  records 
of  the  "Council"'  and  the  "Council  and  Assembly"  of 
Xew  Hampshire,  from  1692  to  1700  ;  fourth,  of  miscella- 
neous papers  and  letters,  official  and  private,  illustrative 
of  the  state  of  the  J*rovince,  Indian  ravages,  privations 
and  sufferings  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  growth  of  the 
settlements  in  the  aforesaid  periods.  It  is  estimated  that 
the  entire  work  will  comjirise  seven  v(^lumes  octavo,  of 
600  pages  each. 

And  now,  gentlemen  of  the  legislature,  I  gladly  sur- 
render these  important  trusts,  confided  to  my  keeping  by 
a  generous  })eople,  into  the  hands  of  my  successor,  be- 
s])eaking  for  him  the  same  kindness  which  has  cheered 
me  in  my  lal)()r,  and  that  high  regard  duTi  to  his  services 
on  the  battle-field  and  his  public  labors  in  the  civil  walks 
of  life.  But  though  glad  to  be  relieved  from  (.'ares  and 
anxieties  which  have  almost  exclusively  occupied  me  dur- 
ing the  past  two  years,  I  shall  ever  esteem  dear  the  honor, 
ltros}»erity,  and  glory  of  my  native  State,  whose  interests 
are  only  subordimite  to  the  welfare  of  a  restored  and 
jieaceful  Union.  May  the  Supreme  liuler  of  nations  and 
States  strengthen  and  uphold  you  in  the  discharge  of 
every  duty  ;  may  harmonious  counsels,  just  laws,  wise 
measures,  and  undisturbed  peace,  mark  the  duration  of 
your  official  terms,  and  the  consciousness  of  work  well 
done  evei-  attend  you  through  all  your  future  career. 
With  u  heart  full  o\'  gratitude  to  (itod  for  whatever 
strength  He  has  given  me  in  my  endeavors  faithfully  to 
[•crforni  my  duty,  and  for  the  maimer  in  which  he  has  fa- 
vorably  inclined  the  minds  of  the  peo[>le,  I  now  surrender 
these  trusts,  hoping  they  have  not  suffered  in  my  keeping. 
My  official  iXMord  is  now  (•oiii})]eted.  I  trust  it  may  stand 
the  test  of  exaniinatioTi,  of  eritieism,  and  of  time,  be  ap- 
jiroved  by  the  peojde,  and  by  Him  t<j  wIkjui  we  must  all 
render  an  account  at  last. 


■PRESS    COMMENTS.  299 

The  following  press  comments  ujton  the  valedictory 
address  are  quoted  :  — 

The  Manchester  Mirror  said :  "  The  valedictory  is  a 
full  and  clear  review  of  the  prominent  events  and  results 
of  two  years  of  arduous  service  in  the  chief  magistracy. 
Governor  Smyth  lias  nothing  to  conceal  or  evade.  He 
has  done  his  whole  duty,  and  done  it  well.  He  knows  the 
exact  financial  condition  of  the  State,  and  he  states  it  with 
the  clearness  of  full  and  accurate  knowledge.  One  can 
but  feel,  as  he  closes  the  reading  of  this  message,  that  an 
arduous  stewardship  has  been  indeed  nobly  fulfilled." 

From  the  Boston  Journal  :  "  Governor  Smyth's  admin- 
istration has  been  highly  successful,  not  only  in  a  financial 
point  of  view,  which  is  demonstrated  by  statistics,  but  in 
all  other  respects.  He  has  been  indefatigable  in  pressing 
the  claims  of  his  State,  taking  refusal  after  refusal  only 
as  spurs  to  his  final  triumph."' 

From  the  Connnercial  Bulletin  :  "  Yesterday  at  half-past 
twelve  p.  M.  the  term  of  service  of  Hon.  Frederick  Smyth 
as  governor  of  ]Srew  Hampshire  came  to  a  close.  An  ad- 
dress delivered  by  him  on  that  occasion  is  found  in  this 
sheet,  which  contains  facts  that  will  aftbrd  the  highest 
satisfaction  to  the  people  whose  executive  head  he  has 
been  the  last  two  years.  To  say  that  the  public  concerns 
of  the  State  have  been  well  cared  for  l)y  Governor  Smyth, 
would  imperfectly  express  our  opinion  of  his  administra- 
tion. He  has  been  as  vigilant  and  careful  of  the  interests 
of  the  peo[tle  as  if  those  concerns  were  personal  to  him- 
self, and  has  so  successfully  managed  the  financial  affairs  of 
the  State  that  its  credit  stands  as  A\ell  as  that  of  any  other 
commonwealth.  He  has  not,  furthermore,  l>een  content 
with  merely  discharging  the  routine  duties  of  the  station 
he  occuitied,  but  souglit  in  other  ways  to  promote  the 
prosperity  of  New  Hampshire,  h'  (lovernor  Smyth  had 
not  declined  furtlier  service,  the   ]»eo]»le  would  have  ex- 


300  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

tended  bis  term  by  a  tbird  election.  He  leaves  tbe  execu- 
tive cbair  witb  a  record  to  wbicb  botb  bimself  and  his 
fellow-citizens  may  turn  witb  satisfaction." 

From  tbe  Concord  Daily  Monitor  :  "  Tbe  (valedictory) 
message  of  (iovernor  vSmytb  is  tbe  fitting  complement  of 
a  well-rounded  otbcial  life.  Few  men  ever  came  into  tbe 
gubernatorial  cbair  surrounded  witb  more  perplexities  or 

cbarged  witb  bigber  responsibilities Two  years 

ago  tbe  finances  of  tlie  State  were  in  a  condition  of  cbaos. 
Money  was  difficult  to  be  ol)tained  and  only  at  exorbitant 
rates.  Tbe  pnl>lic  credit  was  as  uncertain  as  tbe  State's 
indebtedness.  To-day  Governor  Smytb  resigns  bis  cbarge 
witb  tbe  proud  consciousness  of  lea^'ing  notbing  uncer- 
tain or  unsettled  wbicb  diligence,  business  tart,  and  untir- 
ing zeal  could  close  up  and  arrange Xor  bas 

(-iovernor  Smytb's  administration  been  merely  a  financial 
success.  He  bas  neglected  no  single  ]iul>lic  interest. 
Himself  a  practical  example  of  all  tbe  virtues  tbat  consti- 
tute a  good  citizen,  be  bas  interested  bimself  in  every 
movement  wbieli  looked  to  tlie  welfare  of  tbe  community 
and  tbe  promotion  of  industry.  tem]ierance,  and  good 
morals  among  tbe  people.  Sbaring  tbe  popular  gratitude 
toward  tbe  l)rave  "lioys  in  blue,"  be  bas  spared  no  effort 
to  serve  and  benefit  tbeni.  Faitbful  to  jiis  }irinciples  and 
to  bis  political  friends,  be  bas  never  Iru'gotten  tbat  lie  was 
tbe  eliief  magistrate  of  tbe  ^vbule  State.  Everywbere 
and  ah\"ays  tbe  plain  republican  and  gentleman,  be  carries 
int(»  rlie  retirement  be  voluntarily  -^(Uigbt  tbe  conscious- 
ness of  duty  faitbfully  performed,  and  tbe  confidence  aiul 
I'esj.ect  of  all  jiatriotic  and  bonest  men.  witbout  distinction 
of  jiarty.  Sucli  an  end  of  official  lite  is  far  better  tban 
tbe  beu'inninii-."' 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

APPROVAL    OF    POLITICAL    FRIENDS    AND    FOES. 

A  DISCUSSION  took  pUiee  in  the  Xew  Hanipsliire  House 
of  Representatives  at  tlie  close  ot"  the  hist  session  (hiring 
the  official  term  of  CTO\^ernor  Smyth,  which  was  of  a 
character  so  especially  gratifying  to  him  and  to  his  friends 
that  it  is  introduced  here.  It  shows  the  estimation  in 
which  the  governor's  administration  was  held  hy  the 
legislators  of  different  political  opinions.  The  dehate  was 
on  a  joint  resolution  making  an  api)ropriation  of  $1,500 
for  extraordinary  expenses  incurred  hy  Governor  Smyth. 

Mr.  Sanl)orn,  of  Laconia,  moved  to  lay  the  resolution 
on  the  table,  stating  that  he  would  like  to  make  some 
remarks  upon  it.  He  tliought  the  passage  of  the  resolu- 
tion would  l)e  setting  a  had  precedent  that  in  after  times 
they  would  be  sorr\'  tor. 

Mr.  Roles,  of  Ossi[)ec,  said  that  (Toveruor  Smytli  liad 
stated  to  the  Committee  on  Finance  that  lie  had  actually 
spent,  in  his  opinion,  SI, 500  for  traveling  ex[)cnses  and 
hotel  bills  while  looking  after  the  interests  of  the  State  at 
Washington,  Boston,  and  other  places.  There  had  been 
$500  appropriated  each  year  lor  contingent  expenses  while 
he  was  in  office,  l)ut  he  had  not  drawn  any  of  that  money, 
and  it  remained  in  the  treasury.  Governor  Smyth  had 
stated  to  the  committee  that  if  the  House  would  allow  tlie 
amount  without  material  objection  he  would  like  to  have  it, 
but  he  would  rather  not  have  it  than  iiave  any  contest 
over  it  in  the  House. 

Mr.  Walker,  of  Concord,  stated  that  during  tlie  admin- 
istration of  (ilovernor  Smyth,  he  had  been  to  Wasliington 
some  ten  or  twelve  times,  and  had  paid  his  expenses  out 


302  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

of  his  own  pocket.  lie  had  also,  in  taking  care  of  the 
finances  of  the  State  (and  they  all  knew  he  had  a  good 
deal  to  do  with  this  matter),  heen  obliged  to  visit  diiferent 
parts  of  the  State  to  negotiate  loans  with  savings  banks, 
banks,  and  individuals,  and  on  all  such  occasions  he  had 
paid  liis  bills  from  his  own  pocket,  and  in  no  case  had 
he  been  reimbursed  for  this  money  which  he  had  paid  out. 
Under  previous  administrations,  he  (Mr.  Walker)  under- 
stood that  the  custom  had  been  for  the  governor  to  repay 
himself  for  such  expenses  by  a  draft  upon  the  treasury  or 
upon  the  contingent  fund.  Govei'nor  Smyth  did  not  feel 
(piite  clear  that  he  could  take  that  liberty,  and  hence  he 
had  not  l)een  jiaid  for  this  sum  which  he  had  advanced  to 
tlie  State.  The  Finance  Committee  thought  the  only  fair 
and  manly  course  for  t]\v  State  to  take  was  to  pay  this 
money, 

Mr.  Hackett.  of  rortsmoutii,  said  he  trusted  the  vote 
u[ton  this  (pK'Stion  would  be  of  such  a  character  as  to  sat- 
isfy Governor  Smyth  that  the  House  took  as  much  ploas- 
urc  in  granting  this  sum  as  he  would  fee!  in  receiving  it. 
Pie  thought  tlie  House  would  not  be  inclined  to  give 
(lovernor  SmytlTs  successors  a  hint  that  when  they  got 
liold  of  any  of  the  funds  of  tlie  State,  they  had  l)etter 
take  care  of  themselves  iirst.  The  governor  had  scrupu- 
lously followed  u[i  tlie  interests  of  the  State,  and  had 
takiMi  none  of  the  moniy  of  the  State  l)eyond  his  salary. 
His  etforts  had  l)een  attended  Avith  great  success  in  }>ress- 
iiig  the  claims  of  the  State  upon  the  General  Government, 
and  in  taking  care  of  tlie  interests  of  the  State  in  every 
direction.  If  he  had  done  this  at  his  own  expense,  he 
(Mr.  Hackett)  thought  they  should  convince  him,  by  their 
action  in  this  matter,  that  they  ap[)reciated  and  were 
grateful  for  what  he  had  done. 

Mr.  Page,  of  Warren,  said  he  took  special  pleasure  in 
advocating  the  }»assage  of  the  resolution.     It  had  been  the 


POLITICAL    APPROVAL.  303 

custom  to  appropriate  troni  S500  to  $1,000  a  year  for  a 
contingent  fund.  IFe  lia<l  found  that  Governor  Smyth 
had  never  meddled  with  this  conting-ent  fund,  wliieli  his 
predecessors  had  always  drawn.  He  (Mr.  Page)  helieved 
that  he  had  been  most  scrui»ulously  exact,  more  so  than 
many  others  would  have  been  under  the  same  circum- 
stances :  and  in  compliment  to  that  rare  integrity,  and  in 
further  compliment  to  the  rare  financial  ability  manifested 
by  the  late  executive,  he  hoped  the  resolution  would  pass. 
He  felt  that  he  ^^•as  honoring  himself  and  com])limenting 
his  constituents  by  giving  his  support  to  the  bill. 

Mr.  Sturoc,  of  Sunapee,  said  he  acquiesced  in  every 
word  that  had  been  said  In'  the  gentleman  from  Warren 
and  the  gentleman  from  Portsmouth.  He  thought  they 
would  sim|»ly  be  doing  themselves  honor  and  justice  in 
passing  the  resolution. 

Mr.  Said)orn,  of  Jjaconia,  said  he  was  not  prepared  to 
say  what  course  was  pursued  in  regard  to  the  extraordi- 
luu-y  expenses  of  Governor  Berry,  and  he  asked  that  the 
resolution  might  be  laid  upon  the  table  to  give  liim  an 
opportunity  to  pre[)are  himself  to  s]»cak  upon  it.  lie  did 
not  sup})(>se  that  any  gentleman  on  the  Hoor  would  sa}' 
that  ex-(iovernor  Smyth  had  not  done  all  a  man  could  do: 
l)ut  he  (Mr.  Sanl)orn)  supposed  he  was  well  aware  when 
he  acccjited  the  otHce  \\hat  his  salary  Mas  to  be  ;  and  if, 
at  this  late  day,  he  could  come  in  and  demand  §1,.')00  for 
extraordinary  services,  he  (Mr.  Sanborn)  wanted  the  privi- 
lege of  l)eing  heard.  His  constituents  would  like  to  know 
for  what  their  money  was  spent. 

Mr.  Page,  of  Warren,  stated  that  Governor  Berry  re- 
ceived special  ap[iropriations,  in  amount  nearfy  equal  to 
the  amount  [)roposed  to  be  ])ai<l  (lovernor  Smyth,  and 
received  the  contingent  fund  also,  (xovernor  (Tilmore 
drew  in  orders  upon  the  treasury  over  $1,000,  and 
received    a    special    appropriation    from    the    legislature 


304  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

of  $1,000,  and  the  contingent  fund  each  year.  He  be- 
lieved that  this  claim  was  less  in  amount  than  was  actually- 
received  by  Governor  Berry  and  Governor  Gilmore 
beyond  their  salaries,  and  lie  believed  it  was  infinitely 
l)etter  deserved. 

Mr.  Barnard,  of  Canaan,  said  he  too  was  a  Democrat, 
and  was  willing  to  refund  to  Governor  Smyth  what  he  had 
paid  out,  so  that  he  should  lose  nothing  by  having  been 
governor  of  the  State,  as  he  had  satisfied,  as  a  general 
thing,  both  the  Democratic  and  Republican  i>arties. 
[Applause.] 

Mr.  True,  of  Plainfield,  thought  tliat  if  the  gentleman 
from  Laconia  liad  proper  time  to  investigate  the  merits  of 
the  case,  he  would  be  willing,  as  he  (Mr.  True)  believed 
every  other  member  of  tlie  House  was,  to  favor  the  resolu- 
tion. He  thought  it  would  be  ungentlemanly  in  the  House 
to  refuse  the  appropriation. 

The  question  was  then  taken,  and  the  motion  to  lay  on 
the  table  lost.  Tlie  resolution  was  subsequently  passed 
nein.  roit.  (Tovcrnor  Smyth  soon  afterwards  acknowl- 
edged the  courteous  manuer  in  which  one  of  his  2)olitical 
oiqionents  had  alluded  to  him,  in  the  following  letter  :  — 

M.vxcnr.sTKi;.  July  11,  1867. 
Sa.miel   B.   ]*A(;e,   Ksit. : 

M'l  iJxir  Sir:  I  cannot  alloAv  the  liandsome  manner 
in  ^\llicll  you  were  pleased  to  allude  to  some  matters  con- 
nected with  my  administration  to  pass  unnoticed.  Your 
remarks  in  the  House  of  Kepresentatives  on  the  twenty- 
eighth  (lay  of  last  month,  ujton  the  resolution  for  my 
extraordinary  exjieiises  while  holding  the  }»osition  of 
governor,  were  happily  conceived,  and  under  the  circum- 
stances an  act  of  very  grai-eful  courtesy.  While  our 
politi(;a]  convictions  lead  u>  to  different  conclusions,  I 
shall  not  soon  forget  that  you  have  sliown  that  gentlemen 
are  not  peculiar  to  any  party. 


RECEPTION  OF  CHIEF  JUSTICE  CHASE.        305 

Thanking  you  most  sincerely  for  this  kind  und  noble 
act,  I  remain  most  sincerely  your  friend  and  obedient 
servant, 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 

On  the  27th  of  August,  1867,  Chief  Justice  Chase  was 
the  guest  of  ex-Governor  Smyth,  and  was  the  recipient 
of  many  attentions  from  the  citizens.  lie  was  received 
at  the  depot  by  a  large  delegation,  after  which  he  dined 
privately  with  his  host  and  family.  At  eight  v.  M.  the 
doors  were  thrown  0})en  to  the  public,  and  hundreds  tilled 
the  grounds  and  the  adjacent  streets.  At  nine  o'clock  the 
cornet  band  arrived  and  added  its  music  to  the  animation 
of  the  scene.  The  house  and  grounds  were  illuminated, 
and  the  crowd  very  good-naturedly  called  on  the  chief 
justice  for  a  speech.  As  he  came  out,  he  was  introduced 
by  the  Honorable  David  Cross,  and  made  a  very  pleasant 
and  fitting  response.  Ex-Governor  Smyth  also  being 
called  on,  thaidced  the  people  for  the  respect  and  atten- 
tion they  showed  his  guest  and  the  nation's  benefactor. 

The  chief  justice  received  many  invitations  to  visit  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  State,  most  of  which  he  was  com[)elled 
to  decline.  He  however  made  a  tour  of  the  mills  and 
other  industrial  pursuits  of  Manehester,  and  also  visited 
the  Xe^v  Ham])shire  General  Association  of  Ministers, 
then  in  convention  at  Xasliua,  and  addressed  them  In'iefly 
on  the  duties  of  citizenship. 

General  Harriman,  in  his  inaugural  message  to  the 
legislature,  thus  indorsed  the  tinancial  course  of  Governor 
Smyth  :  — 

"  ^ly  ])rcdecessor  has  jtresented  to  you  a  clear  and  de- 
tailed statement  of  tlie  present  condition  of  the  tinances 
of  the  State.  It  is  unnecessary  to  rei>eat  that  exhibit 
here,  or  to  antieijiate  the  details  of  the  treasurer's  report, 
which  will  soon  l)e  laid  before  you.  The  State  is  not 
bankrupt.     Her    credit    was    never    better    than     now. 


306  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

Under  the  skillful  financial  management  of  my  predeces- 
sor, more  than  a  quarter  of  a  million  was  paid  on  her  debt 
during  the  past  year,  and  with  the  same  rate  of  taxation 
an  equal  amount,  at  least,  may  be  paid  the  present  year. 
The  people  are  not  poor.  To  say  nothing  of  their  great 
multiplicity  of  resources,  they  have  money  enough  on 
deposit  in  our  savings  banks  to  pay  the  State  debt  nearly 
three  times  over.  It  is  gratifying  to  know  that  the  extent 
and  character  of  our  indel)tedness  have  been  carefully 
ascertained  and  promptly  presented  to  the  public,  thus 
removing  all  cause  of  suspicion  regarding  it.  The  larger 
part  of  the  debt  has  been  advantageously  funded,  and  the 
remainder  placed  in  such  condition  as  to  be  easily  and 
safely  managed." 

In  September,  1867,  ex-Governor  Smj'th  presided  at 
the  Xew  Hampsliire  State  Fair,  held  at  Dover,  and  made 
some  brief  introductory  remarks.  The  address  was  deliv- 
ered by  Major  Ben:  Perley  Poore,  of  Massachusetts,  and 
there  were  s[ieeclics  by  Governor  Harriman,  Colonel 
Xeedham,  and  others. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

DEDICATION    OF    A    SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT. 

Ex-GovERNOR  Smyth  was  invited  to  deliver  the  address 
at  the  dedication  of  a  soldiers'  monument  at  Washiiii^ton, 
Xew  Hampshire,  on  the  16th  of  October,  1867.  A  clear 
and  beautiful  Indian  summer  day  lent  an  additional 
charm  to  all  the  exercises,  which  were  witnessed  by  a 
large  concourse  of  people.  The  sturdy  and  intelligent 
yeomanry  left  their  tields,  the  artisans  closed  their  shops, 
and  the  operatives  in  the  factories  joined  the  throng 
which  congregated  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  memory 
of  those  who  had  died  that  their  country  might  live. 
The  lovely  village  of  Washington  was  handsomely  decor- 
ated for  the  occasion,  with  Hags  waving  across  the  streets 
and  from  the  principal  l)uildings.  A  procession,  in  which 
marched  about  fifty  returned  soldiers,  escorted  the  orator 
of  the  day  and  other  distinguislied  guests  to  a  })]atform 
erected  in  front  of  tlie  monument,     Hon.  Martin  Chase, 

lu'csident   of    the    dav,    made   soiiie  interestinir  remarks 
.   .  .  .     "  .  .  .  .  .     ' 

giving  a  history  of  the  collection  of  funds  tor  the  erection 

of  the  moiuiment,  followed  by  a  fervent  prayer  by  liev. 
S.  L.  Gerould,  of  Stoddai'd,  late  a  member  of  tlie  Four- 
teenth Xew  Hampshire  Infantry,  The  president  of  the 
day  then  introduced  as  the  orator  of  the  occasion  ex- 
Governor  Smyth,  who  was  greeted  as  he  rose  with  three 
hearty  cheers,      lie  tlien  spoke  as  f)llows:  — 

Friends  and  Fkllow-Citizexs  : 

On  an  occasion  so  sad  and  yet  so  joyous,  so  mingled 
with  the  elements  of  grief  and  of  thanksgiving,  it  would 
be  a  dithcult  task,  even  for  one  acconijilislied  in  all  the 
graces  of  oratory,  to  rise  to  a  full  comprehension  of  that 


308  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

sublime  height  reached  by  our  sacred  dead;  still  less 
can  I  hope  to  tind  words  to  set  forth  the  splendor  of  their 
deeds,  or  pay  any  fitting  tribute  to  the  value  of  their 
services. 

Happily,  there  is  little  need  to  tell  you  what  you  have 
lost  or  what  the  country  has  gained.  Those  soldiers  went 
out  from  among  tjou,  from  their  homes  and  farms  and 
firesides,  from  the  altar  and  the  church,  to  do  battle  for 
their  country.  You  knew  them  well.  They  were  no 
mercenary  hirelings,  but  citizens  like  yourselves,  bone  of 
your  bone  and  fiesh  of  your  fiesh  :  now,  alas  I  missed  for 
ever  from  these  loved  and  peaceful  scenes,  these  hapjiy 
homes  and  bright  northern  skies,  these  hills  that  n^se 
to  their  thoughts  on  the  long,  weary  marches,  and  in- 
spired their  dreams  with  thoughts  of  home.  Lost  to 
sight,  Init  not  forgotten,  they  live  in  the  institutions  they 
■defended,  in  the  jcgis  of  civil  liberty  they  planted,  and  in 
the  hearts  and  affections  of  a  great  and  free  people. 

The  time  is  yet  too  recent,  and  the  tossing  of  the  great 
struggle  too  much  felt,  to  take  a  just  view  of  the  acts  of 
those  wc  meet  to  honor;  but  already  multitudes,  through 
a  mist  of  tears,  have  seen  the  l)ow  of  promise  span  the 
graves  of  their  fallen  kindred,  and  have  some  true  con- 
ception of  the  value  of  our  country  and  its  freedom. 

But  while  we  cannot  (piite  pierce  the  future,  nor  judge 
'of  all  the  omens  of  the  day,  I  lielieve  that  this  is  to  be  a 
land  where  the  princi])les  of  eivil  lil)erty  as  set  forth  in 
the  declaration  of  our  fathers  will  ])e  lived,  as  well  as 
rea<l  and  thought,  and  where  every  man  and  woman,  no 
matter  what  cold  climes  have  blanched  their  clieeks,  or 
what  tropic  suns  have  darkened  their  faces,  shall  have  the 
noblest  liberty  that  God  ever  gave  to  any  c)f  His  people, 
*'  the  liberty  to  do  right.'" 

The  attention  of  the  traveler  in  Italy,  and  in  the  old 
<-c>untries   of  the   world,   is    constantlv   attracted    to    the 


DEDICATION    OF    SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT.  309 

numerous  monuments  of  antiquity  on  every  hand.  Many 
of  them,  althouii-h  partially  in  ruins,  are  works  of  rare 
beauty  and  grandeur,  on  which  the  most  sublime  artistic 
skill  has  been  displayed,  and  immense  labor  and  vast 
wealth  expended.  These  beautiful  columns  challenge  our 
admiration  for  the  genius,  taste,  and  skill  which  con- 
structed them;  yet,  on  a  careful  examination  of  their  his- 
tory and  now  partially  obliterated  inscriptions,  the  Amer 
ican  will  be  disgusted  with  the  fact  that  in  almost  every 
instance  they  were  reared  in  the  honor  of  rulers  of  great 
renown,  and  Averc  merely  the  ex}iression  of  tyrannic 
power  and  the  servility  of  the  masses,  who,  from  choice 
or  necessity,  spent  lives  of  toil  to  give  immortality  to  a 
single  man.  ( )ne  of  the  l)est  preserved  monuments  of 
this  kind  now  standing  in  Rome  —  the  Column  Trajan  — 
is  dedicated,  as  the  inseri}»tion  tells  us,  to  the  honor  of  the 
Emperor  Trajan  l)y  the  Senate  and  Ivomau  people,  a.  d. 
11-I-.  Although  more  than  1,700  years  old,  it  is  now  in 
almost  a  perfect  state  of  preser\'ation.  I  can  give  you  ]u> 
l)etter  apjtreciation  of  it  than  by  stating  tlie  sinij>le  fact 
that  the  sculptures  upon  it  contain  no  less  tlian  2,oOO 
human  figures.  The  ashes  of  tlie  einpei'or  alone  are  de- 
posited within  :  but  not  the  name  of  a  single  soldiei'  of 
the  thousan<ls  who  gave  rlieir  !i\-e>  foi-  his  i-mpir^'  is  j-e- 
cordcd  there. 

American  monuments  give  cNjii'*->sioii  to  gi'cat  e\'eiits,. 
and,  at  the  same  time,  individualize  the  serxices  ot'  the 
masses  acti\'e  in  theii'  production.  Such  is  the  inoini- 
ment  before  us.  In  accordance  v/ith  our  natioiutl  appre- 
ciation ot'  indi\'idual  life,  and  the  -cr\icc>  of  oui"  soldiers 
in  the  ranks,  you  have  e)igra\'en  upon  it  the  name  ot~ 
everv  man  in  yonv  town,  ho\ve\-er  humble  hi>  position, 
who  gave  his  lite  tighting  oui-  battle-. 

One  ot'  the  most  impoi'tant  truths  deiuoustratecl  by  our 
late  war  is  thi>  :   that   tlu'   natio-.i  whicli  attacho  the  most 


310  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

value  to  individual  life  and  gives  the  most  freedom  to  in- 
dividual action  for  the  sake  of  its  life,  and  for  the  sake  of 
freedom  itself  and  the  world,  made  the  most  stupendous 
voluntary  sacrifice  of  life  knoAvn  to  history.  Standing 
armies  of  mercenary  troops  support  despotic  power, 
hut  ^^•e  have  taught  the  world  the  great  lesson  that 
gigantic  armies  of  volunteers,  fighting  for  freedom  and 
national  existence,  have  heen  persistently  maintained 
throughout  a  great  conflict,  whose  frequently  recurring 
hattlcs  and  great  carnage  would  have  exhausted  any  other 
people  on  earth. 

We  do  well,  then,  to  honor  those  who  have  fallen  in 
such  a  contest,  and  we  do  honor  them.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  our  armies  have  commanded,  to  a  greater  extent  than 
any  other  armies  which  have  ever  made  the  venture  of 
war,  the  S3'mpathy  of  their  countrymen,  their  active  aid 
and  support,  tlioir  care  for  the  sick  and  wounded,  and  for 
the  disahk'd  who  have  survived.  And  no  nation  has  ever 
80  tenderly  and  carefully  dis]»ose<l  of  its  heroic  dead,  or 
so  generally  honored  them  in  their  Inirial.  as  have  the 
American  people. 

Such  nionnnieiits  as  this,  of  material  as  enduring  as  tlie 
hills  from  which  it  is  taken,  scattered  all  over  our  hroad 
land,  Avill,  to  tlie  remotest  ages,  in  connection  with  our 
written  history,  keep  fresh  the  memory  of  such  as  we 
honor  to-day.  and  multii»ly  tlie  }>roofs  of  the  })atric»tism 
and  the  sacrifice--;  of  oui'  recent  struggle. 

AVhcii  yon  and  1,  my  friends,  and  all  these  children 
asscnil)]e(l  here  on  this  tittiiig  autumnal  day,  shall  he 
sleeiiiug  with  the  fathei's,  generations  yet  un])urn  and 
their  chihlivnV  children  will  gather  around  this  shaft,  and 
ujiou  thi-  s;icred  spot  reheai'se  the  stoiy  of  the  conHict  in 
which  the.-><'  sons  of  your  town  gave  their  lives:  while 
coming  ages,  fi'din  a  >tandp(>int  of  ci\'ili/cation  and  appre- 
ciation of  merit   heyoml   our  o^\■n,  shall    look  l)ack  u[ion 


DEDICATION    OF   SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT.  311 

you,  and,  with  hands  upraised  in  benediction,  pronounce 
a  blessing  upon  the  work  you  have  to-day  l)r()Ught  to  a 
worthy  completion. 

Yes,  citizens  of  Washington,  these  are  tlie  martyrs,  the 
seed  of  our  universal  church  of  liberty  and  of  human 
rights ;  and  you  have  done  well  to  build  this  simple  but 
beautiful  and  expressive  monument  of  perpetual  remem- 
brance ;  and  my  admiration  of  the  course  you  have  taken 
is  not  unmingled  with  surprise  wlien  I  o))serve  how  many 
larger  towns,  and  even  wealthy  cities,  are  behind  you  in 
this  matter.  Indeed,  with  one  exception,  I  believe  your 
town  is  the  tirst  to  lead  in  this  noble  work.  And  yet  this 
should  be  no  cause  of  surprise;  for  do  we  not  know  that 
among  the  hills  and  in  the  quiet  haunts  of  a  rural  popida- 
tion,  the  love  of  liberty  is  always  pure  and  strong  ?  Here, 
if  anywhere,  the  true  worth  of  our  civil  and  religious  in- 
stitutions is  appreciated  and  adhered  to  with  a  tenacity  of 
pur})Ose  that  no  reverses  can  discourage  and  no  danger 
daunt. 

I  ho})e  to  see  the  time  when  this  praiscwdrthy  example 
of  yours  will  be  followed  throughout  the  State  and  all 
over  the  land  :  when  every  town  and  city,  each  according 
to  the  measure  of  its  ability,  shall  build  and  inscril)e  some 
token  of  a  grateful  people's  love  for  their  lu'ave  defenders. 
I  would  have  the  world  know  tliat  repul)lics  are  not  un- 
grateful, and  that,  as  wc  sacredly  provide  for  the  comfort 
and  maintenance  of  the  living  who  came  out  of  the  con- 
test poor  in  everything  save  honor,  so  we  shall  e\'er 
cherish  the  memory  of  the  dead. 

I  said  that  we  should  show  that  republies  are  not  un- 
grateful; but  if  it  were  only  in  the  interest  of  self-}ireser- 
vation,  1  hold  that  we  should  set  an  example  to  the  young, 
that  wi-  should  instill  into  eveiy  heart  that  fervid  and 
o-enuine  love  t)f  country  which  hesitates  at  no  honorable 
saci'itiee  to  preserve  its  liberties  untramnieled  or  its  honor 
untarnished. 


312  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Let  lis  make,  keep,  and  sustain  such  a  sentiment  of 
regard  for  the  surviving  heroes  of  the  war,  that,  while 
having  faithfully  served  in  freedom's  cause,  they  shall  be 
made  to  feel  that  they  are  duly  honored ;  and  let  us  so 
tenderly  cherish  the  great  services  of  the  dead,  that  the 
sentiment  adopted  l)y  the  martyr  patriot  of  the  first 
Revolution,  "  It  is  sweet  to  die  for  one's  country,"  shall 
be  no  mere  fancy  of  tlie  poet. 

To  us  as  American  citizens,  these  graves  of  the  loyal 
dead  arc  perpetual  incentives  to  duty.  Every  green 
mound  on  which  the  falling  leaves  of  autumn  softly  drop 
their  gold  and  scarlet  wreaths,  every  monument  of  stone, 
or  bronze,  or  marble  that  points  from  earth  to  lieaven, 
admonishes  us  of  our  sacred  charge. 

As  much  as  any  one  I  believe  in  peace  and  peaceful 
measures ;  as  much  as  any  one  I  desire  the  lasting  and 
per[»otual  union  of  these  States  on  terms  of  repuljlican 
justice  and  e(iuality.  But  in  such  a  jiresence  as  this,  and 
Avith  all  the  sacrifice  of  the  long  years  of  Ijlood  and  car- 
nage so  resolutely  borne  l)y  the  peo[)le,  I,  for  one,  can 
never  consent  to  any  renewal  of  fraternal  union  that  is 
not  founded  on  the  absolute  e(|uality  in  right  of  every 
citizen,  irrespective  of  mere  accident  of  birth.  Such  I 
believe  t(^  be  the  trust  reposed  in  us,  and  especially  can 
no  man,  n(jt  a(;tually  and  personally  engaged  in  the 
sti'uggle,  [icrsuade  himself  that  he  ought  to  do  less  than 
to  retain  and  improve  what  they  have  given  us  by  their 
li\cs.  Let  us  cliei'isb  neither  malice  nor  revenge;  Init 
tbat  lo\e  which  sacrifices  princijile  is  never  trustwortliy, 
and  a  union  l)Ound  by  false  comi)roinises  must  fall  with 
vv(.'vy  distnrbance  of  conflicting  interest,  or  degenerate 
into  a  (les|iotism. 

Such,  fellow-citizens,  are  my  sentiments  in  regard  to 
our  duty  growing  out  of  the  war.  Are  they  not  true, 
and  worthy  of  the  time  and  occasion".''  For,  in  the  first 
}»la<'e,   unless  the  war  was  all  wrong,  and  the  Northern 


DEDICATION    OF    SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT.  313 

people  not  justified  in  defending  the  policy,  the  freedom, 
and  the  religion  of  our  fathers  against  the  aggressive 
power  of  slavery,  we  must  learn  some  lessons  of  wisdom 
from  the  result  of  the  contest.  The  moral  judgment  of 
the  world  and  of  posterity  will  not  hold  us  guiltless  if  we 
do  not.  But  pardon  me ;  I  should  remember  that  you 
do  not  need  to  be  told  your  duty,  and  that  you  have  made 
up  your  minds  on  that  point. 

If  I  speak  to  any  who  have  lost  near  friends,  it  is  rather 
to  congratulate  than  to  console.  Death  meets  us  all 
sooner  or  later,  and  to  him  who  is  armed  in  a  righteous 
cause,  and  who  falls  for  that  dear  flag  whicli  is  the  symbol 
of  his  country's  greatness,  death  can  never  come  in  a 
more  glorious  form.  I  confess  to  you  that  in  the  presence 
of  these  war-worn  veterans,  and  the  more  thrilling  pres- 
ence of  this  silent  but  elocpient  shaft,  I  am  subdued  and 
abashed  when  I  think  how  little  I  have  sacrificed  in  the 
common  cause;  and  I  feel  that  it  l)Ccomes  nie  to  ap})roach 
tliis  consecrated  ground  with  reverence  and  uncovered 
head  ;  but  surely  neither  I  nor  any  of  us  can  go  from  this 
}»lace  careless  or  unconcerned  for  tlie  honor  of  our  country. 

Let  us  rather  }>ledge  ourselves  anew  to  tireless  devotion 
to  its  cause,  and  a  determination  that  whatever  traitors 
may  dare  or  do,  our  hands  shall  be  clean  from  the  destruc- 
tion of  this  fair  fabric  of  civil  lil)erty  which  the  fatliei's  have 
l)uilded.  Let  no  man  call  us  usur[iers  or  tyrants  ove 
other  nven's  rights;  we  will  accord  to  them  all.  to  every 
fellow-citizen  l)eneat]i  the  starry  flag,  the  same  rights  we 
claim  for  ourselves,  —  no  more,  no  less. 

But,  my  friends  and  fellow-citizens,  I  think  that  through 
all  tlie  clouds  which  skirt  the  near  horiz«ui  we  can  discern 
the  dawn  of  a  brighter  and  more  peaceful  day.  When 
the  moss  begins  to  grow  u}H)n  this  monument,  Avlu-n  time 
has  sol"tene<l  its  sharp  angles  and  spread  its  green  covering 
over  the  mound  where  it  stands,  the  ]»assions  and  asperi- 


314  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

ties  of  men  will  have  cooled  down,  and  the  great  sea,  so 
lately  rough  and  rolling  with  a  tremendous  storm,  will 
become  as  calm  and  placid  as  the  summer  lake. 

The  good  old  shi})  of  State,  complete  in  every  minute 
detail  of  spar  and  sail,  with  her  great  guns  that  herald 
everywhere  the  advance  of  freedom,  will  sit  upon  the 
waters  instinct  with  a  life  and  strength  and  vital  force 
which  shall  make  her  known,  feared,  and  loved,  till  the 
latest  pulse-beat  on  the  shores  of  Time.  If  they  who  laid 
her  keel,  and  framed  her  mighty  ribs,  and  planked  her 
solid  deck  are  worthy  of  all  praise,  so  I  am  persuaded 
that  history  will  accord  honorable  }>lace  to  those  who  have 
taken  her  nobly  through  the  storm  with  the  tlag  nailed  to 
the  masthead.  —  "  Xot  a  stripe  erased  or  ]>olluted,  nor  a 
single  star  ol»scured."'  Xay,  fellow-citizens,  should  the 
result  be  otherwise,  then  were  contradicted  the  experi- 
ences of  all  }»ast  time,  and  the  liand  upon  the  dial-plate 
of  progress  toward  more  just  and  equitable  government 
throughout  the  world  would  l:»e  turned  back. 

But  I  do  not  l)elieve  that  this  will  l)e  done  —  that  death- 
struck  slavery  will  revive,  or  that  Russia  will  relapse  into 
serfdom,  or  that  Englishmen,  having  once  wielded  the 
right  of  suffrage,  will  bow  to  their  masters  the  lords  in 
Parliament,  or  that  I'rotestant  Christendom,  now  sitting 
clothed  an<l  in  her  right  mind,  will  make  pilgrinuiges  to 
the  shrine  of  8t.  Peter,  or  renew  allegiance  to  the  Pope 
at  IvcMue.  X(j  :  all  these  are  victories  won  and  dangers 
pas>;ed ;  we  lia\e  but  to  build  wisely  in  the  }>resent,  and 
stret<'li  forward  with  hope  and  confidence  to  the  future, 
trusting  in  the  hand  of  that  ow-rruling  Providence  which 
lias  accepted  the  saci-itice  of  liigli  devotion,  and  which  will 
nex'er  desrrt  ii>  sd  l(^ng  as  \\\-  remain  true  to  the  great 
]>rinciples  ot'  civil  liberty,  as  de\"eloped  by  a  Christian 
ci\'i!i/,atioi). 

Tiie  lai'iT''  auiliencc   listened   with  the  closest  attention 


DEDICATION    OF    SOLDIERS'    MONUMENT.  315 

to  the  address,  and  man}-  eyes  suft'used  in  tears  plainly 
told  that  the  precious  memory  of  the  sleeping  patriots 
was  embalmed  in  loving  hearts  as  well  as  sculptured  on 
monumental  stone. 

On  motion  of  E.  P.  Howard,  a  vote  of  thanks  was 
given  to  ex-Governor  Smyth  for  his  elo([uent  oration,  and 
a  copy  was  solicited  for  publication.  Brief  and  interest- 
ing addresses  were  made  by  several  other  gentlemen,  and 
the  dedication  ceremonies  were  closed  l)y  the  returned 
soldiers,  who,  headed  by  ex-Governor  Smyth  and  Colonel 
King,  marched  in  profession  to  the  monument,  wliere, 
with  uncovered  heads,  they  de[»osited  sprigs  of  evergreen 
as  eml)lematical  of  tlieir  constant  affection  for  tlieir  de- 
parted comrades,  the  l)and  meanwhile  playing  a  solemn 
diro-e.     This  closed  the  dedication  exercises. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

VISIT    TO    EUROPE.  —  THE    EAST. 

President  Hayes  appointed  ex-Governor  Smyth,  in 
1878,  an  lionorary  commissioner  to  the  International  Ex- 
position at  Paris.  He  left  the  port  of  Xew  York,  accom- 
panied hy  Mrs.  Smyth,  on  the  24th  of  April,  on  the 
steamer  Russia,  for  Liverpool.  The  voyage  across  the 
Atlantic  was  prosperous  and  not  marked  by  any  incident 
worthy  of  special  mention.  After  pasf^ing  a  week  in 
England,  chiefly  in  London,  they  went  to  Paris,  where 
the  International  Exposition  was  open,  and  there  was 
notliing  to  he  done  by  the  honorary  commissioners  ex- 
cept to  attend  official  l)an(iuets  and  rcce})tions. 

Ex-Governor  Smyth  and  his  wife  had  long  cherished  a 
desire  to  travel  in  the  Old  AVorld,  especially  those  portions 
of  it  hallowed  hy  scriptural  associations,  and  after  having 
inspected  the  International  Exposition,  they  turned  their 
l)acks  on  the  frivolities  of  Paris  and  started  for  the  Holy 
Land.  The  following  extracts  from  the  ex-governor's 
]irivate  correspondence,  which  were  ])ublislied  at  the  time 
in  the  Manchester  ^lirror  and  American,  vrill  give  a  good 
idea  of  where  the  travelers  went  and  of  A\hat  they  saw. 

Hotel  ^lKiirn:i;i:AM:AX, 

MitUNT   ZioN.    Jr.iaSALEM, 

June  C,  1S7S. 
Dear  IJrothkr:  I  can  only  briefly  outline  our  jour- 
ney from  I'aris.  "We  left  there  on  the  14th  ult.  by  rail 
from  Marseilles,  (100  miles  through  the  soutliern  ]iart  of 
France  '•'"'/  Fontainebleau,  Dijon,  Lyons,  and  numerous 
otlier  grim  old  towns  in  the  richest  agricultural  portions 
of  the  countrv,  regions  famous  for  the  vine,  silk,  and  the 


VISIT   TO    EUROPE.  317 

olive.  I  [)asse(l  over  this  route  in  1862,  and  thought  it 
quite  as  interesting  along  the  banks  of  the  Khone  and  the 
Saone  as  on  the  Rhine,  and  am  of  the  same  o]»inion  still. 

From  Marseilles  we  took  steamer  for  Alexandria, 
Egypt,  passing  near  the  islands  of  Corsica,  Ell)a,  and 
Monte  Christo,  the  scene  of  Dumas'  famous  story,  and 
on  the  third  day  entered  the  Bay  of  Naples  at  sunrise. 
Old  Vesuvius  was  smoking  away  just  as  T  left  it  sixteen 
years  ago,  although  there  had  been  one  eruption  mean- 
while, in  1872.  The  entrance  to  this  beautiful  bay  is  as 
impressive  as  ever,  and  we  s[tent  a  most  enjoyal)le  day  in 
and  about  the  city.  I  could  see  little  change,  but  as  at 
sunset  we  sailed  out  again  among  the  numerous  islands 
that  bestud  the  harl)or,  the  charm  was  undiminished. 

In  the  next  two  days  we  [lassed  over  nearly  the  same 
route  as  did  St.  Panl  when  shipwrecked  on  the  journey 
to  Rome,  and  touched  at  l*ozzuoli,  then  Puteoli,  passing 
near  Reggio,  ^lelita,  etc.  As  we  passed  between  the 
island  of  Sicily  and  the  southern  point  of  Italy,  —  Scylla 
and  Charybdis,  —  Mount  Etna  was  in  plain  view,  and  so 
continued  nearly  all  day,  the  sight  of  its  snow-clad  sum- 
mit in  this  southern  clime  being  quite  refreshing.  The 
Ionian  Islands  and  Candia  next  came  in  sight.  May  22, 
we  saw  the  coast  of  Africa  bordering  the  great  Lybian 
desert,  and  before  night  reached  Alexandria,  in  the  land 
of  Egypt.  Cleopatra's  Xeedle  and  Ponq)ey"s  Pillar,  signs 
by  whieh  every  traveler  knows  this  land,  from  l*eter  Par- 
ley down  and  u}>.  first  catch  the  eye;  and  on  landing, 
what  a  scene,  what  dire  confusion  I  Egy})tians,  Aral)s. 
Xul)ians.  Tunisians,  every  color,  all  styles  of  dress,  and 
no  dress  at  all  I  Donkey's,  camels,  pilgrims,  dervishes, 
all  howling,  yelling,  and  in  one  conglomerate  mass  rush- 
ing upon  us  I  It  would  have  friglitened  any  one  who  had 
not  encountered  that  organized  banditti  known  as  Xew 
York    haek-drlvers.      ?''ortunatel\'    we    had    an    Arabian 


318  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

friend  with  us  who  could  speak  nearly  all  their  languages, 
and  with  his  cane  he  banged  them  right  and  left,  making 
a  clean  path  for  us  to  the  custom-house,  from  whence  we 
soon  reached  our  comfortable  hotel. 

Soon  after  the  fall  of  Tyre,  the  books  tell  us,  more  than 
2,200  years  ago,  Alexandria  became  the  commercial  em- 
porium of  Egypt,  and  now  it  is  a  city  in  a  world  of  ruins. 
For  miles  and  miles  in  every  direction  there  are  scattered 
remains  of  other  ages,  beautifully  carved  columns,  frag- 
ments of  statues,  heads,  arms,  pnd  legs  in  promiscuous 
confusion,  as  thick  as  the  stones  in  the  pastures  of  Can- 
dia,  our  native  town. 

After  several  days  of  rare  and  pleasing  experiences,  we 
passed  on  to  Cairo  through  rich  lands  made  fertile  by 
water  brought  from  the  Xile  by  canal  to  Alexandria. 
Tlioy  were  harvesting  enormous  crops  of  wheat,  and  the 
land  also  bears  abundantly  of  rice  and  cotton.  Men, 
women,  boys,  and  girls  all  work  together  in  the  fields, 
and  all  nearly  or  quite  naked.  The  canal  is  tapped  at 
various  intervals,  and  when  the  Xile  water  cannot  be  had, 
it  is  drawn  from  wells,  sometimes  with  tlie  old-fashioned 
sweep  and  bucket  of  our  l)oyliood.  The  grain  is  gath- 
ered in  vast  liea}>s  near  the  threshing-floors,  and  is  trodden 
out  by  donkeys  or  cows,  and  carried  on  the  backs  of 
donkeys  or  camels.  A  camel  l()aded  with  unthreshed 
grain  looks  in  sha]')e  like  a  cart  loaded,  only  its  four  legs, 
like  sticks,  are  visible  as  it  ukjvcs  in  a  stately  way  under 

its  burden From  Alexandria  to  Cairo,  130 

miles,  we  crossed  the  Xile  several  times,  visited  the  Pyra- 
mids and  Sphinx,  saw  the  s[)Ots  of  traditionary  interest  at 
Memj»his,  the  home  of  the  Pharoahs,  of  Potiphar,  tlie 
granaries  of  Josejih,  the  spot  where  Moses  was  found, 
}>assed  over  a  })ortion  of  the  desert  where  the  children  of 
Israel  journeyed,  and  through  the  land  of  Goshen.  At 
the  village  of  Mataryeh  the  spot  is  shown  where  .Joseph, 


VISIT   TO    EUROPE.  319 

with  Mary  and  tlie  infant  Jesus,  is  said  to  have  tarried 
when  they  fled  from  Herod.  Of  course,  as  you  know 
the  Pyramids,  tomhs  of  the  Caliphs,  and  many  of  tlie 
most  interesting  ruins  are  on  tlie  border  of  the  great  Afri- 
can desert,  ten  miles  or  more  from  the  city,  and  we  went 
on  donkeys,  meeting  many  a  passing  train  of  camels  laden 
with  merchandise.  Our  journey  out  of  the  land  of  Egypt 
was  somewhat  l)ricfcr  than  tliat  of  the  Israelites,  and  pro- 
ductive of  less  trouble  to  ourselves  and  others.  On  our 
way,  however,  to  the  Red  Sea,  we  watched  with  curious 
interest  signs  of  their  route.  We  took  boat  at  Tsmailia 
through  the  Suez  Canal,  and  at  Port  Said  found  the  same 
steamer  we  had  left  at  Alexandria.  Arrived  at  Jati'a,  we 
went  to  the  house  of  "one  Simon,  a  tanner.*"  Wa  found 
not  Simon,  nor  Peter,  nor  Cornelius,  but  we  looked  oyer 
the  house,  plucked,  as  a  memento,  some  of  the  "  hyssop 
that  groweth  out  of  the  wall,"'  and  departed.  At  this 
port,  King  lliram  landed  the  cedars  wliich  he  gave  to  Sol- 
omon for  the  l)uilding  of  the  tenn)le  ;  l)ut  however  they 
were  carried  to  Jerusalem  puzzles  one. 

Although  it  is  the  only  carriage  road  in  the  i-ei^-iou,  it  is 
hardly  possible  to  scpieeze  moi'c  abominable  rouii'lniess 
into  forty  miles.  A  cart  driven  at  liaj)-liazard  over  tlie 
rocky  pastures  of  Candia.  walls  and  all,  could  liardlv  pro- 
duce more  startling  etiects.  The  view  of  .Joppa  from  the 
sea  is  tine,  its  terraced  streets  and  tlat-roofed  houses  ot" 
sti:)ne  looking  well  iu  tlie  distance:  but,  when  thei'c,  one 
struggles  through  the  narrow,  dirty  lanes,  and  looks  int«j 
the  caves  they  occu[iy  t'ov  dwellings,  with  a  disgust  which 
is  not  relieved  by  the  iilth,  s(|ualor,  and  nakedness  whicji 
everywhere  jn'cvails.  On  the  otlier  hand,  as  we  go  t()A\ai-d 
Jerusalem,  luxurious  gardens  stretch  away  foi-  a  mile  or 
more,  with  hedges  of  cactus  ten  feet  high  and  from  tive 
to  six  feet  thick,  in  full  bloom  ;  orange  trees,  bending 
with  golden  fruit;  and  the  iMjniegranate,  with  its  crimson 


320  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

blossom,  forming  a  vscene  of  unsurpassed  beauty.  And 
now,  on  leaving  these  suburbs,  we  come  into  a  land  of 
historic  and  sacred  interest.  Through  the  plains  of  Sharon 
to  Lydda,  where  Peter  healed  Eneas,  to  Ramleh,  the  re- 
puted home  of  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  where  we  lodge, 
sleeping  on  the  housetops ;  thence  on  through  old  Philis- 
tine battle-tields,  the  valley  of  Ajalou,  jwhere  Joshua 
stayed  the  sun,  and  Anathoth,  the  birthplace  of  Jeremiah; 
now  we  cross  the  little  brook  (David's  armory  said  to  be 
near  the  spot)  where  Goliath  was  slain,  and  pass  in  sight 
of  where  the  ark  of  the  covenant  rested  for  so  many 
years,  Ivirjath-jearim  ;  also  the  liouse  and  tomb  of  Sam- 
uel. All  tliis  time  we  have  been  going  up,  up  toward  the 
mountains  that  lie  round  about  .Jerusalem,  through  lands 
where  every  foot  was  once  a  terraced  garden,  but  which 
are  now  a  most  desolate  wilderness.  Within  signal  dis- 
tance along  the  route  are  watch-towers,  where  live  armed 
men  with  Heet  horses,  to  protect  travelers  from  the  sons 
of  Ishmael,  whose  hand  is  against  every  man.  And  now, 
weary  and  shaken  with  the  journey,  we  reach  the  last 
mountain  to[i,  and  see  the  Holy  City,  "beautiful  for  situa- 
tion."* Perluqis  so  once,  when  crowned  with  the  verdure 
of  successful  cultivation  :  but  now,  enthroned  on  a  rock, 
in  the  midst  of  a  wild,  mountainous  country,  it  is  bare 
and  desolate  indeed.  The  walls,  towers,  minarets,  and 
dwellimj-s  are  all  of  a  creamv-hued  stone,  and  tliou2i:h 
pleasant  in  look,  are  yet  unrelieved  by  tree  or  shrub  of 
living  green,  glaring  in  the  sun. 

Jerusalem,  June  12,  1878. 
Dear  Broth  ku  :  P"'rom  the  to[i  of  our  hotel,  looking 
east  over  Mount  C'alvary,  Mount  Moriah,  the  ruins  of  Sol- 
omon's Temple,  and  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  we  see  the 
Mount  of  ( )lives  and  the  Garden  of  (4ethsemane.  A  little 
to  the  right,  three  miles  away,  is  Betliany,  and  on  the  left, 


TRAVELS    IN    THE    EAST.  •  321 

Mizpali,  the  tomb  of  Samuel,  and  tlie  mountains  of  Ju- 
(lea.  Furtlier  on  arise  the  mountains  of  .Nfoah,  and  we 
catch  i^limpses  of  the  vaUey  of  the  Jonhin  and  the  Dead 
Sea.  Westward,  over  the  valley  of  Hinnom,  the  Hill  of 
Evil  Ck)iincil  and  Mount  Klias  are  in  full  view.  The 
Bethlehem  road,  trodden  by  the  feet  of  patriarchs,  |)ro- 
phets,  apostles,  and  by  our  Saviour,  in  so  many  centuries, 
is  lost  behind  these  hills;  and  in  addition  to  all  this  is  the 
panorama  scene  of  the  city  of  Zion. 

Xight  after  night,  as  we  come  in  from  our  journeys  to 
these  sacred  localities,  we  go  out  into  the  mooidight,  gaze 
uj)on  these  scenes,  try  to  recall  the  momentous  events 
these  hills  have  witnessed,  and  our  childhood's  dreams 
concerning  the  story  of  the  Scri[>tures,  until  exhausted 
nature  commands  us  to  our  couch,  there  to  dream  over 
again  these  wonderful  events. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  are  in  the  saddle,  re- 
tiring and  reading  up  on  Bible  histor\-  in  the  lieat  of  tlie 
day,  and  then  mounting  our  donkeys  again  in  the  after- 
noon. The  order  of  our  going  is  usually  as  follows: 
first,  a  tremendous  dragoman,  armed  to  tlie  teeth,  with 
a^  drawn  sword,  who  clears  the  way  ;  then  F.  S.  on  horse- 
back ;  thirdly,  E.  on  a  donkey  attended  by  a  l)oy  who 
keeps  the  donkey  up  to  time  and  tuiu'.  as  he  hrays  every 
few  moments  with  fearful  noise.  One  day  we  thus  visited 
the  Mount  of  Olives  and  (Jarden  of  Oetliseniane,  and  fol- 
lowt'd  what  must  have  been  the  jiath  of  our  Sa\iour,  over 
the  to[t  of  the  mount  to  Bethany.  From  this  side  <^f  the 
mount  are  visible  the  Dead  Sea.  the  River  Jordan,  and  the 
mountains  of  Moab  l)eyond. 

On  another  day  we  rode  around  the  outsicK'  of  the  city 
walls,  beginning  at  the  golden  gate,  jiassing  through  the 
valley  of  .lehoshaphat  and  that  of  lliniiom  or  Tojihet,  by 
the  tombs  of  Al)salom,  Zachariah,  St.  .lames,  and  the 
pools  of  Solomon,  well  of  En-rogel,  and  ovn-  ih*,'  br(tok 
Kedron. 


322  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Tlie  day  we  went  to  Bethlehem  was  crowded  with  stir- 
ring experiences ;  every  inch  of  the  soil  over  which  we 
passed  seemed  endowed  with  power  to  move  us  with  in- 
describable interest. 

The  plain  of  Rephaini,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Elias,  is  where 
the  scene  pictured  in  the  fifth  of  Second  Samuel,  of  the 
Philistine  defiance  to  David,  took  place.  It  is  so  graphic 
and  so  curious  that  I  will  transcribe  it  here  :  "  And  the 
Philistines  came  up  yet  again  and  spread  themselves  in 
the  valley  of  Rephaim,  and  when  David  inquired  of  the 
Lord,  he  said :  Thou  shalt  not  go  up ;  but  fetch  a  com- 
pass behind  them,  and  come  upon  them  o^'er  against  the 
mulberry  trees ;  and  let  it  be,  when  thou  hearest  the  sound 
of  a  going  in  the  tops  of  the  mulberry  trees,  that  then 
thou  shalt  bestir  thyself;  for  then  shall  the  Lord  go  out 
before  thee,  to  smite  the  host  of  the  Philistines." 

Very  soon  we  came  to  the  valley  of  the  shepherds 
wliere  they  watched  their  flocks  on  that  night  when  the 
birth  of  Christ  was  announced,  and  then  "in  the  way  of 
Ephrath,''  where  Jews  of  the  more  devout  sort  were  sit- 
ting at  the  tomb  of  Rachel  reading  their  Hebrew  bibles. 
ISTear  here  "  Rama  "  was  pointed  out  (Matt.  ii.  18),  and 
now  Bethlehem  is  before  us.  How  wonderful  it  seems ; 
and  how  it  carries  us  back  to  the  days  when  God  talked 
with  men  I  "  And  Jacob  called  the  name  of  the  place 
where  God  spake  with  him  Beth-el."  Gen.  xxxv.  15.  "And 
Rachel  died  and  was  Imried  in  the  way  to  Ephrath,  which 
is  Bethlehem."  Gen.  xxxv.  19.  And  so  it  cannot  have 
been  far  from  herein  any  event.  Bethlehem,  itself  on  a  hill, 
is  surrounded  by  other  hills.  Here  David  tended  his 
father's  sheep,  and  here  over  these  pastures  still  ])rowse 
the  sheep  and  goats.  Rea|)ers  are  cutting  the  ripened 
grain,  women  and  children  are  gleaning  in  the  fields;  the 
old  story  over  again  of  Ruth  and  Boiiz  ;  and  here,  too, 
was  the  advent  of  one  greater  than  all,  the  Saviour  of  the 
world.     Thev  show  us  the  mani^er  in  a  cave,  —  such  a 


TRAVELS    IN   THE    EAST.  323 

cave  as  is  now  used  for  a  stable  in  this  country,  and  as 
caves  are  comparatively  safe  from  the  changes  and  decay 
of  time,  I  see  no  reason  why  this  may  not  have  been  the 
place.  We  rode  back  to  Jerusalem  by  moonlight,  stop- 
ping again  at  the  tomb  of  Rachel,  where  at  sundown  come 
Jews  all  the  way  from  the  city  to  wail  and  lament  their 
fallen  nation.  At  bedtime  we  stood  at  the  "  gate  of 
Zion,"  and  what  a  change  from  the  memories  and  thoughts 
of  the  day,  —  braying  of  donkeys,  the  groans  of  camels, 
barking  of  dogs,  songs  and  yells  of  Arabs,  Egyptians, 
Jews,  Turks,  Abyssinians,  Hivites,  Jebusites,  and  Periz- 
zites !  As  you  well  know,  there  are  a  thousand  things 
of  deepest  interest  here  that  I  cannot  even  find  time  to 
name.  The  pools  of  Solomon,  source  of  the  water  supply 
of  the  city ;  his  garden,  still  cultivated  and  rich  ;  tombs 
of  judges  and  kings;  "the  tomb  of  David;  the  wailing- 
place  of  the  Jews  by  the  only  remaining  fragment  of  the 
temple  -sNall ;  and  the  place  of  the  trial  and  the  crucifixion, 
I  must  pass  now. 

It  seems  to  me  that  no  candid  person  who  has  read  the 
Scriptures  carefully,  can  travel  in  this  land  without  having 
his  faith  strengthened,  though  it  had  been  never  so  weak  ; 
and,  if  strong  before,  as  was  mine,  it  will  surely  be  con- 
firmed if  one's  eyes  and  mind  be  open  to  evidences 
spread  out  on  every  hand. 

As  we  passed  over  the  plains  of  Sharon  where  the 
Philistines  lived  and  had  possession  until  David,  and  then 
up  through  the  mountains  of  Judea,  where  almost  every 
hill  and  valley  may  be  recognized  by  the  Bible  descrip- 
tion alone  as  places  of  repeated  struggles  between  the 
children  of  Israel  and  the  idolaters,  and,  as  we  saw  evi- 
dences of  once  great  fertility  in  these  lands  now  desolate, 
barren,  scorched  by  the  curse  of  God,  as  foretold  in  Jere- 
miah, for  the  sins  of  the  Jews,  we  feel  that  no  further 
evidence  is  needed,  and  that  the  Creator  of  the  world  has 
kept  his  promise  to  the  children  of  men. 


324  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Then,  reading  the  histor}^  of  Jerusalem  and  other  cities 
of  this  land,  can  anything  surpass  the  entire  fulfillment 
of  the  words  of  God  and  the  later  declarations  of  his  Son 
as  I  see  it  before  my  eyes  to-day  ?  Surely  nothing  more 
is  needed  to  confirm  one's  faith  in  the  truth  of  the  Word 
of  God.  I  suppose  that  the  people  among  whom  Christ 
was  born,  lived,  and  grew  to  manhood,  were  just  about 
the  same  as  to  habits,  manners,  and  morals  then  that  they 
are  now.  They  are  nearly  all  miserable,  lying,  cheating, 
thieving  rascals.  To  my  mind  no  human  being  could  be 
born  and  reared  in  such  a  Sodom  and  be  perfect  as  Christ 
was.     lie  must  have  been  divine. 

All  the  great  natural  features  of  the  country  have  seen 
no  change,  and  can,  for  the  most  part,  be  identified  from 
the  Bible  ;  but  the  works  of  man  are  buried  in  tenfold 
ruin.  In  the  cities  the  dust  of  the  streets  our  Saviour 
trod  is  buried  beneath  other  streets  to  the  depth  of  sixty 
or  seventy  feet.  The  tops  of  Mts.  Zion,  Moriah,  and  Cal- 
vary may  not  have  changed  :  but  the  strong  foundation 
arches  of  buildings  and  temples  are  overwhelmed  and 
hidden  in  ruin  upon  ruin,  so  that  when  they  tell  us  of  the 
exact  site  of  this  and  the  other  great  event  in  the  sacred 
history,  we  are  compelled  to  turn  away  in  disgust. 

In  a  few  days  we  shall  start  for  Smyrna  and  Constanti- 
nople, and  from  thence  go  to  Athens,  from  which  place  I 
will  write  you  again. 

We  have  received  very  gratifying  attentions  from  the 
American  consuls  at  Jaffa  and  Jerusalem,  finding  our 
rooms  prepared  for  us  in  advance,  and  our  movements 
facilitated  in  every  way.  We  have  ke])t  in  advance  of  the 
mails,  and  have  liad  no  word  from  home  since  the  27th  of 
April.  I  need  not  tell  you  how  anxious  we  are  to  get  to 
Athens,  where  we  expect  to  receive  letters  and  papers. 


TRAVELS    IN    THE    EAST.  325 

Grand  Hotel  D'Angletekke, 
Athens,  Greece,  June  27,  1878. 

1  can  only  give  you  a  brief  account  of  our  movements 
since  my  last  letter  from  Jerusalem. 

Following  the  fashion  of  Jonah  (Jonah  v.  3),  wc  went 
down  to  Joppa,  found  a  ship  going  to  Tarshish,  [)aid  our 
fare  and  went  down  into  it ;  but,  unlike  that  prophet,  we 
were  not  swallowed  by  any  great  fish.  A  very  small 
creature,  however,  which  has  ruled  in  these  lands  since 
David's  day  (see  1  Samuel,  xxvi.  20),  does  his  best  to 
devour  us. 

We  sailed,  or  steamed  rather,  up  the  Syrian  coast  to 
Beyrout  (with  but  a  glance  at  Cesarea,  Mount  Tabor, 
scene  of  the  transfiguration,  Carmcl,  Acre,  Tyre,  Sidon, 
Sarepta,  and  other  places  of  note),  where  we  visited  the 
American  Missionary  schools  and  college.  After  a  very 
pleasant  interview  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  Bliss  and  his  charm- 
ing family,  and  with  the  professors  and  teachers,  we  rode 
some  distance  up  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  Lel)ano]i. 
The  great  cedars  which  once  covered  the  sides  are  no 
more,  but  the  wonderful  view  remains,  and  the  inspiring 
memories  that  nuike  the  story  of  this  land  so  full  of  interest. 

From  Beyrout  we  touched  at  Cyprus,  landing  at  Sala- 
mis  and  giving  a  day  to  these  famous  anti(iuities.  Once. 
they  tell  us,  Cyprus  teemed  with  the  active  life  of  four 
million  inhabitants;  now,  under  miserable  Turkish  rule, 
reduced  to  less  than  two  hundred  thousand.  Physically 
the  Cypriote  is  a  fine  specimen  of  manhood;  the  soil  is 
rich  and  will  produce  almost  any  thing  raised  upon  the 
earth :  the  wines  are  particularly  famous.  AVe  were 
shown  some  said  to  be  100  years  old ;  not  being  wine- 
drinkers  we  tried  a  single  teaspoonful  only ;  but  ''  '  twas 
enough."  T  would  rather  have  one  good  drink  of  iced 
Massabesic  water  than  a  hogshead  of  it. 

You  will  notice  that  we  are  on  the  old  track  of  St. 
Paul  aii^ain,  and  no  doubt  will  sav  to  us,  "  That  is  a  safe 


326  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

road  to  travel."  Well,  we  expect  to  keep  near  it  for 
some  time,  and  so  our  next  stopping  place  was  the  island 
of  Rhodes,  most  eastern  isle  of  the  ^Egean  Sea.  The  old 
city,  now  not  much  larger  than  Manchester,  was  esteemed, 
something  more  than  a  couple  of  thousand  years  ago,  say 
400  B.  c,  as  one  of  the  most  magnificent  cities  of  the 
world.  And  now  we  are  sailing  among  the  Turco-Greek 
islands  of  the  ^Egean,  —  Patmos,  Samothrace,  Mitylene, 
Seio,  and  many  other  more  or  less  familiar  names,  —  inde- 
scribably beautiful  as  we  touch  at  or  come  near  their  ver- 
dure-clad shores,  ever  and  anon  gaining  and  losing  sight 
of  the  mountainous  coast  range  of  Asia  Minor.  It  is  all 
like  a  dream  or  a  scene  of  enchantment,  this  blue  sky, 
these  sparkling  waters,  the  thousand  isles,  all  celebrated  in 
story  and  song  centuries  ago,  and  I  wish  I  could  convey 
to  you  just  the  impression  it  produces  upon  the  mind. 
Were  they  not  all  cursed  by  Turkish  rule  these  places 
would  be  delightful  abodes  still,  though  in  their  prime 
when  America  was  unknown  and  unthought  of. 

It  is  very  surprising  to  tind  how  imperfect  and  mis- 
leading are  all  our  x\merican  maps  of  this  section  of  the 
world.  I  mentioned  these  impressions  to  one  of  the  pro- 
fessors of  Robert  College,  and  found  that  he  fully  appre- 
ciated the  ditliculty  and  was  at  work  upon  a  map  to  meet 
the  want.  ]Ma})-niakers  in  our  part  of  the  world  must 
conclude  that  any  thing  will  do  tliat  they  are  able  to  sell. 

At  Smyrna,  tlie  second  city  in  Turkey  and  tlie  great 
port  of  Asia  Minor,  we  spent  a  very  interesting  day.  It 
is  the  central  })ointof  the  l^evant.  It  claims  to  have  been 
the  birtln)hice  of  Homer,  and  is  wry  rich  in  ancient  re- 
nuiins.  The  tomb  of  Polycarp  is  one  of  tlie  first  objects 
wliich  meet  the  eye  on  approaching  the  I'ity,  and  this 
country  round  about  is  the  region  of  the  seven  "■churches  "' 
addressed  in  Revelation.  To  most  people,  however, 
Smvrna    is    associated    with     fiirs,    I'aisins,    oranires,    and 


1  RAVELS    IN    TIO]    EAST.  327 

lemons.  Oftentimes,  so  dry  and  warm  is  the  air,  grapes 
are  made  into  raisins  in  clusters  on  the  vine. 

Before  entering  the  Dardanelles  we  i)ass  on  the  right,  or 
Asiatic  shore,  the  Troad,  the  scene  of  the  Iliad  and  sup- 
posed site  of  ancient  Troy.  The  clumges  here  are  not 
merely  historic  hut  physical,  and  the  gradual  dei)ression 
of  the  coast  line  has  covered  with  water  vast  areas  of  ruin. 
Then,  too,  the  old  cities  have  served  as  a  quarry  these 
many  centuries,  from  which  Constantino]  tie  has  been 
built. 

On  the  European  side  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora  we  saw 
the  Russian  army  encamped  on  Turkish  soil,  250.000 
strong,  awaiting  the  action  of  the  Berlin  Congress.  lie- 
tween  that  and  Constantinople  are  the  soldiers  of  the  sul- 
len Turk,  said  to  be  300,000  in  number.  Both  armies  are 
well  equipped,  ready  ujion  anj'  untoward  turn  in  negotia- 
tions to  renew  tlie  jn'cvious  struggle.  We  heard  the 
sound  of  their  Inigles,  and  saw  their  muskets  glittering 
in  the  sun  ibr  many  miles,  from  the  deck  of  our  steamer 
as  we  passed  up  to  C\)iistantinop]e.  C()nstantino])le,  city 
of  dogs,  of  untold  and  untellable  carrion,  and  of  rulers 
worse  than  dogs,  a  literal  stench  in  the  nostrils  of  unfor- 
tunate travelers  and  of  the  Cliristian  world,  without  de- 
cent streets,  decent  houses  for  the  common  people,  or 
decent  anv  thing  else  that  a  good  city  ought  to  have,  and 
yet  unsurpassed  for  beauty  of  situation  !  The  only  com- 
fortable ]ihu'es  are  some  private  residences,  the  juilaces  of 
the  rulers  and  their  harems,  and  the  water.  Xotliing  can 
compare  with  its  water  and  harbor  facilitic>.  We  went 
u})  the  Bosi»liorus  and  the  (lolden  Horn  into  the  Black 
Sea,  and  one  day  passed  from  Kuro}ie  into  Asia  and  from 
Asia  to  Kun^pe  eleven  times. 

AVe  had  a  most  enjoyable  visit  at  Robert  College,  and 
tormed  ])leasant  ac(piaintances  with  the  acting  president, 
Dr.  Long,  and  the  professors  with  their  families.      The 


328  LIFE   OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

doctor  and  his  two  daughters  did  us  the  honor  to  become 
our  guests  the  next  day  and  night  at  our  hotel  in  Pera. 
We  heard  with  pleasure  and  pride  of  the  very  high  esteem 
in  which  our  pastor,  Mr.  Davis,  was  held  by  both  faculty 
and  students  while  a  teacher  at  this  noble  institution. 
Another  day  was  spent  in  a  very  interesting  manner  at  the 
American  school  for  girls  at  Scutari.  A  reception  was 
given  us  one  evening,  at  which  were  present  the  American 
minister's  family,  the  president  of  Robert  College  and 
familv,  ofhcers  from  the  United  States  s^unboat  here,  the 
American  missionaries,  and  other  distinguished  persons. 

The  position  of  Constantinople  is,  in  some  respects,- like 
that  of  I^ew  York ;  Galata  and  Pera  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Golden  Horn,  representing  Brooklyn,  and  Scutari 
on  the  Asiatic  side,  Jersey  City.  Our  hotel,  a  very  good 
one,  was  in  Pera. 

Through  the  good  othces  of  our  minister  we  were  per- 
mitted to  see  what  few  visitors  have  access  to,  the  private 
treasures  of  the  government,  which  are  securely  guarded 
within  the  high  walls  of  the  old  imperial  palace  of  the 
"  Sublime  Porte."  Here  are  the  spoils  of  centuries,  pre- 
cious stones,  pearls,  crown  jewels,  —  ornaments  valued  at 
many  millions  of  dollars.  There  were  saddles,  bridles, 
swords,  pistols,  the  splendid  military  equii)ment  of  Greek 
warriors,  crusaders,  kniglits,  and  monarchs  who  have  gone 
down  under  the  sharp  l>lade  of  the  Turk.  Some  of  these 
arms  are  valued  singly  at  over  $100,000.  I  ventured  to 
ask  wliy  the  government  did  not  sell  these  treasures  and 
so  far  ]>iiy  it.s  deists,  but  was  told  that,  being  considered 
mementos  of  great  victories,  it  would  be  considered  a 
national  disgrace  to  part  with  them,  (ilod  grant  that  the 
day  may  come  when  the  rightful  owners  of  those  trophies 
nuiy  again  take  their  own.  We  were  constantly  watched 
by  twenty-iive  guards  while  ins]iecting  the  treasure,  who 
nevei'  I'elax  their  vigilam-e.     Some  of  tlie  }»recious  stones 


TRAVELS    IN    THE    EAST.  329 

were  valued  at  one  half  a  niillion.  Our  minister,  Mr. 
Maynard,  and  his  excellent  family  have  been  exceedingly 
kind  to  us,  gaining  us  free  access  to  [>alaces,  harems,  and 
the  luxurious  abodes  of  opulence  not  easy  to  be  seen  by 
travelers  from  foreign  countries. 

There  is  an  evident  tone  of  dei)re8sion  visible  through- 
out the  city.  The  common  soldier  fought  as  he  was 
ordered  ;  he  is  terribly  beaten  and  ol)liged  to  endure  the 
sight  of  the  hated  Russian  at  his  doors.  This  population 
seems  peaceful  and  orderly  by  habit,  however  erratic  or 
insane  its  rulers.  The  sultan  has  only  mind  and  power 
to  support  himself  and  his  wives  while  the  empire  goes  to 
ruin  and  anarchy.  The  only  hope  for  the  people  seems 
to  me  to  be  in  a  vigorous  protectorate  of  the  Christian 
nations.  Xot'\\'ithstanding  its  bad  odors  we  left  the  city 
with  many  pleasant  recollections.  A  very  agreeable  party 
of  missionary  and  other  new  made  friends  accompanied 
us  to  our  steamer  and  remained  to  the  moment  of  depart- 
ure.    We  shall  not  soon  forget  their  kindly  adieus. 

You  will  hoar  from  us  next  at  Athens.  We  have  seen 
the  ruin  that  alike  has  fallen  on  religion  and  on  fanaticism 
so  far  as  external  monuments  are  concerned,  and  now  we 
go  to  muse  among  the  dead  shrines  of  philosophy  and  art 
and  to  stand  (in  the  track  of  Paul  still)  on  Mars  Hill. 

FREDERICK  SMYTH. 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

VISIT    TO    (4REECE. 

Ex-GovERxoR  Smyth  gave  his  reiiiiiiiscoiices  ot  a  visit 
to  Athens  more  at  length  before  the  Athens  Chib,  of 
Manchester,  by  its  invitation.  He  was  feUeitously  intro- 
duced by  Joseph  Kidder,  Esq.,  president  of  the  chib,  and 
his  remarks  were  reported  as  follows :  — 

He  said  that  if  lie  had  supposed  any  scholarly  talk  to 
have  been  required,  such  as  the  classic  name  of  the  asso- 
ciation he  had  the  honor  to  appear  before  might  suggest, 
he  should  have  declined  the  invitation.  With  no  time  to 
write  and  little  to  think,  he  was  compelled  to  trust  to 
memory. 

After  the  usual  experiences  of  an  Atlantic  voyage, 
came  a  half-hour  in  Liverpool,  a  few  days  in  London,  a 
week  in  Paris,  followed  by  the  run  to  Marseilles  and  the 
steamer  to  Alexandria.  As  the  passengers  from  numy 
climes  met  at  the  dining  table,  the  question  "  Do  you 
speak  English?'"  was  most  gratifyingly  answered  in  the 
atlirmative  by  at  least  one  half  of  those  present,  and  in  a 
very  brief  space  all  A\ere  on  the  best  of  terms.  "  My 
wife,"  said  the  speaker,  ''  wlio  could  talk  no  French,  lie- 
ing  es[»ecially  social  ^\■ith  tlic  chief  officer,  who  could 
speak  no  English. 

•'In  twelve  or  fifteen  hours,  we  sighted  Corsica,  Ell)a, 
and  Sardinia,  and  on  the  third  day  entered  the  Bay  of 
Xaples  at  sunrise.  With  a  brief  stay  in  tins  Iteautiful 
place,  we  kept  on  our  way  a  little  southeast  toward  Mes- 
sina, touching  at  Pozzuoli  and  Puteoli,  in  the  track  of  St. 
Paul,  passing  in  sight  of  Stromboli,  the  fabled  mouth  of 


VISIT    TO    GREECE.  331 

the  infernal  regions,  and  through  between  Scylla  and 
Charybdis,  where  on  either  side  a  stone's  throw  woukl 
have  touched  the  shore,  and  tlien  somewhat  farther  out  at 
sea  until  the  warm  breezes  and  the  birds  reached  us  from 
the  shores  of  Candia.  From  thence,  holding  our  way 
toward  the  African  coast,  we  at  length  entered  tlie  harbor 
at  Alexandria.  The  waters  swarmed  with  boats.  The 
boats  were  manned  by  every  kind  of  people,  and  we  pre- 
pared to  surrender  ourselves  into  their  hands,  as  there  are 
no  approachable  wharves,  and  large  vessels  anclior  at  a 
distance  from  the  shore.  It  was  a  new  and  curious  ex- 
perience,—  the  sight  of  this  howling  multitude  of  black, 
white,  red,  and  yellow  boatmen, — but  we  had  a  friend  on 
board  who  knew  their  wants  and  their  waA^s,  and  who 
piloted  us  safely  to  the  custom-house.  It  would  l)e  inter- 
esting to  speak  of  Alexandria,  but  I  must  get  on  to 
Athens,  briefly  as  possible  going  over  our  route,  We 
took  our  way  to  Cairo,  partly  l)y  rail  and  partly  by  mules. 
The  great  p^-ramids  at  iifty  miles  distance  seemed,  as  we 
approached  them,  as  large  and  as  near  almost  as  at  their 
base.  (3f  course  we  paid  our  respects  to  the  Sphinx,  and 
other  wonders,  before  turning  toward  Ismailia,  where  we 
embarked  on  the  8uez  canal  for  Port  Said.  We  got  out 
of  Egypt  in  a  more  expeditious  and  pleasanter  manner 
than  did  the  Israelites,  although  we  saw  with  great  in- 
terest their  route  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Ked  Sea. 

"Among  the  many  sights  of  a  wonderful  land,  the 
Suez  canal  is  one  of  tlie  greatest.  In  general  terms,  100 
miles  long,  from  forty  to  seventy  feet  wide,  varying  some- 
what according  to  the  roll  of  the  desert,  and  with  numer- 
ous turn-outs  like  a  railroad.  It  is  thirty  feet  deep,  and 
cost  about  a  million  dollars  a  mile.  It  shortens  the  voy- 
age from  England  to  India  4,000  miles.  On  our  passage 
we  met  English  war  trans})orts  having  on  board  a  part  of 
the  India  contingent.      We  had  previously  seen,  in  the 


332  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

illustrated  papers,  these  Indian  soldiers,  and  got  the  idea 
of  splendidly-equipped  men,  six  feet  high  or  thereabouts  ; 
but  the  real  article  was  far  from  imposing — undersized 
illclad,  or  with  scanty  clothing,  they  swarmed  over  the 
decks.  At  Port  Said,  we  joined  the  same  vessel  which 
had  brought  us  from  Marseilles,  and  were  welcomed  by 
the  passengers  like  old  friends.  Touching  at  Beyrout, 
Cyprus,  an.d  at  Rhodes,  we  passed  up  the  Dardanelles, 
where  the  long  lines  of  glittering  bayonets  of  the  Russian 
and  Turkish  armies  were  plainly  seen.  We  passed  a  most 
delightful  day  in  Constantinople." 

Relating  a  little  incident  of  the  landing  at  Cyprus,  the 
ex-governor  said  that,  as  a  crowd  of  natives  had  collected 
about  the  balcony  of  the  hotel,  he  addressed  tliem  in  a 
volunteer  stump  speech.  Their  interest  in  the  speech 
seemed  to  be  in  }>roi)ortion  to  their  ignorance  of  the  lan- 
guage. He  also,  somewhere  near  this  i)oint,  told  the 
anecdote  of  the  lady  who  traveled,  like  many  others, 
witliout  eyes  or  ears,  and  being  asked  if  she  saw  the  Dar- 
danelles, replied,  "Oh,  yes;  we  dined  with  them."' 

"Turning  our  faces  towards  Athens,  the  first  point  we 
touched  after  leaving  Constantinople  was  Syra,  and  here^ 
after  many  days  under  the  crescent,  we  saw  the  cross  and 
heard  the  church-going  bell.  In  about  six  or  seven  hours 
from  Syra,  we  strike  Sunium,  called  the  threshold  of 
Greece,  where,  in  the  midst  of  a  desolate  waste,  stand 
seven  Doric  columns  of  the  temple  of  Minerva,  and  we 
see  i>resently  the  bay  and  field  of  Marathon  l)e3-ond.  En- 
tering the  Pira'us,  the  liarbor  of  Athens,  the  first  eleva- 
tion that  catches  the  eye  is  Mount  ^Egaleos,  where  Xerxes 
sat  in  his  silver  chair  and  witnessed  the  defeat  of  his 
army  and  fleet  in  the  Bay  of  Salamis. 

"Athens  was  in  its  glory  400  years  b.  c.  It  was  in  its 
lowest  estate  just  previous  to  the  War  of  Independence, 
about  1824.     Twenty  years  ago,  it  was  a  city  of  12,000 


VISIT    TO    GREECE.  333 

inhabitants;  to-day,  it  lias  perhaps  70,000.  There  are 
many  fine  residences,  good  hotels,  and  evidences  of  great 
commercial  activity.  It  is  situated  about  five  miles  from 
the  sea,  in  the  midst  of  a  plain  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains—  Parnassus,  Pentelicus,  Hymettus,  and  yEgaleos 
among  the  number — and  opening  to  the  Gulf  of  Sala- 
mis.  In  the  central  portion  of  this  plain  arises  the 
Acropolis,  a  rock  three  times  the  height  and  size  of  Rock 
Rimmon,  inaccessible  on  three  sides,  and  with  a  surface 
once  walled  in,  500  by  2,000  feet.  The  sky,  the  sea,  the 
outline  of  the  hills  are  all  unchanged, — we  see  them  as 
Paul  looked  upon  them, — but  all  else  is  in  ruins,  many 
of  the  grandest  description.  The  first  temple  that  we 
visited  was  that  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  of  which  only  six- 
teen columns  remain.  A  few  years  ago  one  of  them  was 
overthrown,  and  disclosed  the  fact  that  it  was  constructed 
in  pieces  which  were  so  nicely  joined  as  to  be  impercepti- 
ble to  the  eye.  The  diameter  of  the  columns  was  six  feet, 
four  inches,  at  the  base,  and  their  height  fifty-five  feet. 
The  temple  was  354  feet  long  and  171  wide. 

"•  Xearly  all  the  famous  ruins  about  Athens  are  easy  of 
access,  and  on  the  next  day  we  visited  the  Theseum,  or 
temple  of  Theseus.  This  is  the  most  perfect  specimen  of 
antiquit}^  that  the  world  affords.  Its  columns  are  all 
standing,  though  some  of  them  are  thrown  out  of  line  by 
earthquakes."  The  speaker  here  named  one  peeuliarity 
in  the  construction  of  the  temples  with  which  he  supposed 
his  hearers  were  familiar;  all  the  lines  which  in  ordinary 
architecture  are  straight,  are  here  delicate  curves,  and  the 
lines  usually  perpendicular  have  an  inclination  forward  or 
backward,  as  the  case  might  be.  The  ste[>s  of  the  Par- 
thenon, for  instance,  were  built  crowning  about  four 
inches.  They  hace  not  apparently  settled  in  thousands  of 
f/ears  !  Smyth's  l)lock  was  built  crowning  a  little  more 
tlian  four  inches.      He  had  the  euriositv  to  examine  it  on 


334  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

his  return,  and  found  the  rise  only  about  an  inch  and  a 
half.  "We  have  nothing  in  our  city  at  all  resembling  it 
in  architecture,  except,  perhaps,  the  front  of  the  Hanover- 
street  church.*  The  Parthenon  next  claimed  our  atten- 
tion. It  was  built  under  the  reign  of  Pericles,  437  b.  c. 
It  is  built  of  Pentelic  marble,  and  occupies  the  highest 
point  of  the  Acropolis.  It  was  228  by  101  feet,  sur- 
rounded by  46  Doric,  fluted  columns,  34^  feet  high  and 
61  feet  in  diameter.  Thirty-two  of  these  columns  are 
still  standing.  I  wish  I  could  give  you  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  impression  this  grand  old  ruin  produced  upon  us. 
Xo  wonder  that  Joseph  Cook  staid  there  all  night !  We 
could  only  sit  and  look  and  question  of  time  and  old  Per- 
icles, how  all  this  wonderful  work  was  done — by  what 
skill,  what  men,  and  at  what  cost  —  2,300  years  ago  I  It 
is  uncertain  how  the  Parthenon  was  lighted;  some  think 
through  the  Parian  marble  tiles  on  the  roof.  We  saw  the 
marks  on  the  floor  where  the  great  gates  swung  open  to 
admit  the  sacred  procession  from  Eleusis.  During  me- 
diaeval times,  this,  as  well  as  the  Theseum,  was  roofed  over 
and  used  as  a  church. 

"  Xorth  of  the  Parthenon,  and  close  to  the  wall  of  the 
Acropolis,  is  the  Erechtheum.  One  most  remarkable 
thing  about  this  was  the  portico  of  Caryatides,  supported 
by  gigantic  female  figures,  and  so  skillfully  are  they 
sculptured  that  the  immense  weight  they  bear  seems  to  do 
no  violence  to  our  idea  of  the  strength  of  a  woman.  The 
flow  of  the  drapery,  the  curve  of  the  liml)s,  and  the  grace 
of  the  whole  is  inimitable.  Three  only,  of  tlie  original 
six,  are  standing.  One  is  a  copy  in  cement,  replacir.g  one 
which  was  stolen  by  the  English  and  is  in  tlie  British 
Museum.  The  copy  is  very  inferior  to  the  original.  Xot 
far  from  the  Acropolis  stands  Mars'  Hill,  an  elevation  of 
al)Out  the  size  of  Rock  Pimnion,  where  Paul  addressed 
the  Athenians.'' 


Tbe  old  churcli,  which  had  what  was  called  a  Grecian  portico  and  columns. 


VISIT    TO    GREECE.  335 

Perhaps  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  ex-Governor 
Smyth  spoke  of  was  the  Pnyx,  or  phice  of  assemhly  for 
the  Athenian  people.  Here  he  saw  and  stood  upon  the 
platform  from  which  Demosthenes  and  all  the  great  ora- 
tors addressed  the  i)eople.  The  area  of  the  platform 
alone  would  contain  8,000  persons,  while  the  entire  en- 
closure (12,000  square  yards)  would  hold  the  entire 
Athenian  people,  100,000.  Of  course  over  this  there  was 
no  roof,  hut  the  remarkal)le  purity  of  the  atmosphere,  or 
the  forni  of  the  enclosure  with  its  walls,  enabled  one  to 
hear  with  ease  from  the  extreme  limits.  To  test  this,  Mr. 
Constantine,  a  (Ireek  gentleman  and  scholar  well  known 
in  this  country,  ascended  the  celebrated  rock,  or  pulpit, 
and  Governor  Smyth  and  wife  were  able  to  hear  his  voice 
from  the  lower  end  of  the  I*nyx,  even  when  he  spoke  in 
a  whisper. 

The  great  public  assemblies  of  the  Athenians  took  place 
in  the  early  morning,  at  sunrise,  and  this  laudable  custom 
is  followed  now,  the  people  of  the  city  being  everywhere 
astir  at  the  most  unheard-of  hours. 

Recently  some  very  interesting  excavations  are  in  pro- 
gress ;  one,  especially,  of  the  theater  where  our  visitors 
saw  u})on  the  seats  the  names  of  Demosthenes,  Solon, 
Pericles,  and  other  famous  men.  Here  was  where  they  sat 
and  listened  to  Greek  tragedy.  A  large  amount  of  money 
has  l)een  appi'opriatcd  for  a  national  museum,  and  many 
anti(|ue  remains  are  gathered  and  preserved  in  the  Tlie- 
seum  for  that  i)urp<)se.  When  this  project  is  carried  into 
etlect,  ( I  recce  will  have  a  museum  such  as  the  world  can- 
not c([ual. 

The  cx-governor  saitl  that,  notwithstanding  the  })lun- 
dering  of  thousands  of  years,  the  soil  about  the  Acropo- 
lis is  full  of  articles  of  interest,  for  any  one  of  which,  as 
relics,  he  would  gladly  have  paid  a  hundred  dollars 
to  have  had  sent  to  his  home,  but  the  distance  was  a-reat 


336  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

and  the  mails  do  not  carry  marbles.  One  day  they  visited 
the  Academy  and  the  olive  groves  where  Pluto  taught, 
and  such  was  the  climate  that  these  schools  were  out  of 
doors,  and  astronomy  was  always  taught  under  the  starry 
sky.  He  also  spoke  of  the  visit  to  the  Stadium,  or  Am- 
phitheatre, shaped  precisely  like  a  clam-shell.  *'  The  seats 
and  walls  were  of  white  marble,  and  it  was  capable  of 
seating  50,000  people  in  the  day  of  its  glory.  Xow  only 
the  shape  remains;  the  marble  has  been  carried  away  or 
burned  for  lime.  AVe  traced  with  much  interest  the 
course  of  those  famous  classic  rivers,  the  Ilissus,  on  the 
southeast,  and  the  Kephisus,  on  the  west  of  the  city. 
They  did  not  look  to  have  been  ever  larger  than  the  cem- 
etery brook,  and  were  dry  at  the  time  of  our  visit.  It  is 
to  be  supposed,  however,  that  in  the  springtime  they  may 
be  torrents  of  considerable  force.  Many  curious  and  in- 
teresting facts  were  mentioned  which  we  failed  to  record. 
It  was  said,  for  instance,  that  none  of  the  temples  were 
set  in  line,  but  each  by  its  independent  position  and  angle 
compelled  attention." 

As  most  of  us  know,  the  ex-governor  is  a  very  rapid 
talker,  and  while  we  followed  him  along  the  "'  sacred 
way  "  to  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Eleusis,  or  to  the  Acropolis 
of  Corinth,  or  listened  to  the  account  of  the  heroic  de- 
fense of  Mesolonghi,  where  Lord  Byron  died,  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  give  any  adequate  report. 


CHAPTER    XXXIIl. 

CLOSE    OF    lUROPEAN    ToUR. HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

Resuming  the  publication  of  the  cxtnicts  troin  ex-Gov- 
ernor Smytll'^^  private  corres}K)iuleiice,  we  have  tlic  fol- 
lowing graphic  yet  brief  <lescriptions  of  Greece,  and  of  a 
flying  visit  tli rough  Europe  :  — 

("rrv  OK  CoHKL',  on  Inland  of  Coufu, 
SruArr  of  Othaxto,  July  2,  1«78. 

We  are  so  constantly  y)assing  from  one  scene  to  another 
that  we  tind  littk^  tinu'  to  write.  My  lust,  coneerning  Con- 
stantinople, was  sent  you  from  Athens.  We  left  the 
former  city  in  an  Austrian  steaniei',  and  had  a  very  ])leas- 
ant  voyage,  touching  at  several  of  the  islands  in  tlie 
Grecian  Archipelago.  One  of  therji,  Lyra,  was  the  first 
]>lace  we  had  been  in  since  our  landing  in  Egy[)t  not 
cnrsed  by  the  taint  of  Turkish  rule.  Although  we  are 
no  l\(unanists,  yet  I  assure  yon  that  thi'  sup}>lanting  of 
the  crescent  by  the  cross  was  an  impressi\e  experience, 
and  when  we  beard  the  '•  church-going  bells,"  as  on  a 
beautiful  Sunday  morning  Wi'  landed  on  this  lovely 
island,  we  felt  enough  of  the  sj)irit  of  devotion  to  wish  to 
join  with  these  Greek  Catholics  in  their  worship  here. 

From  J^yra  we  sailed  directly  for  IMra'Us,  the  seajtort 
of  Athens,  which  is  about  five  miles  inland.  Taking  a 
carriage,  we  started  from  the  streets  of  Pira'us,  eagerly 
gazing  upon  the  view  that  uidbbU-d  itself.  On  our  right 
presently  api>eared  the  bay  •>f  Phalerum  ;  beyond  it  tlie 
long  ridge  of  Mount  Ilvmettus,  while  to  the  left,  in  the 
distaiu-e,  the  white  nuirl)le  of  Pentelicus  gleamed  like 
siu»w  in  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Diri'ctly  before  us  was  tlie 
2i 


338  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

Acropolis,  with  the  coUimns  of  the  Parthenon  barely  vis- 
ible on  its  summit,  concealing  behind  it  most  of  the  city 
of  Athens.  The  road  })a.ssed  over  a  part  of  the  wall  once 
connecting  city  and  port,  and  soon  after  crossed  the  bed 
of  the  Kephisus,  whose  banks  are  lined  on  either  side 
with  olive  trees.  As  we  approached  the  entrance  to  the 
city,  the  Parthenon  seemed  to  tower  above  it,  while  the 
Pnyx,  where  Demosthenes  addressed  the  people,  and 
Mars  Hill,  the  scene  of  St.  Paul's  memorable  sermon,  ap- 
peared to  the  right.  The  temple  of  Theseus,  said  to  be 
the  oldest  and  best  preserved  of  these  ancient  remains, 
was  very  near  the  entrance.  The  vast  extent  of  these 
ruins,  everywhere  visil)le,  impressed  us  Avith  a  feeling  of 
profound  wonder.  We  were  in  Athens  only  one  week, 
and  would  like  to  have  staid  a  year. 

Three  several  evenings  we  remained  on  the  Acropolis 
until  the  sun  set,  and,  in  the  glow  of  its  jiui'ple  light, 
looked  on  the  unrivaled  l)eauty  of  the  scene.  Xo  words 
of  mine  can  do  it  justice,  and  you  won't  expect  me  to  try 
it,  but  it  is  something  to  sit  on  a  broken  column  and  im- 
agine you  see  the  Academy  of  Plato,  or  to  look  upon  the 
plains  of  Marathon  and  the  gulf  of  ^Egina,  or  a  tliou- 
sand  and  one  other  things  which  only  one  well  versed  in 
ancient  history  could  enumerate.  Xext  to  the  Parthenon, 
perhaps,  in  interest,  is  the  ruin  called  the  Erechtheum, 
Avhere.  among  other  things,  the  portico  of  the  Caryatides 
is  very  im})ressive,  the  roof  being  supported  on  the  heads 
of  six  immense  female  ligures  in  Pentelie  marble.  One 
day  Me  took  a  ride  of  twenty  miles  to  Eleusis  over  the 
"sacred  A\'ay.**  where  the  [»rocessions  in  tlie  famous  niys- 
teries,  or  religious  rites,  took  plaee,  passing  tlie  teni[»les 
of  Ajiollo  and  A'enus.  AVe  saw  liere  the  tenijile  of  Ceres. 
and  also  the  enormous  remains  of  the  Pehisgi  walls,  an- 
cient beyond  ancient,  until  the  inuigi nation  is  lost  in 
antiquity. 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  339 

General  Reed,  our  minister  liere,  and  his  family  enter- 
tiiined  us  at  the  embassy,  and  were  very  attentive,  adding 
not  a  little  to  the  j)leasure  of  our  visit.  After  one  of  the 
most  delightful  weeks  of  our  Journey,  we  left  with  regret, 
and  took  a  Greek  steamer  for  the  island  of  (^orfu,  through 
the  gulf  of  yEgina  and  across  the  isthmus  of  Corinth. 
As  we  left  Piranis,  Mount  Hymettus  and  the  mountains  of 
Attica  were  lost  to  view,  and  Salamis,  ^Egina,  and  tinally 
Acrocorinth  rose  from  the  sea.  At  Kalmaki  we  leave  the 
steamer  and  cross  the  isthmus,  about  four  miles,  where 
ships  were  anciently  transported  from  the  gulf  of  yEgina 
to  that  of  Corinth.  Here  the  young  Corinthians  got  up 
their  muscle,  and  the  Isthmian  games  were  celebrated. 
Corinth,  which,  like  Napoleon's  famous  pyramids,  dates 
forty  centuries  back,  and  has  experienced  the  usual  vicis- 
situdes of  these  old  cities,  having  felt  the  hand  of  lioman, 
Goth,  Latin,  Crusader,  and  Turk,  is  now  only  a  miserable 
little  village  under  the  shadow  of  its  Acropolis.  The 
Acropolis  is  1,800  feet  high  and  incloses  within  its  walls 
a  much  larger  space  than  that  of  Athens.  As  we  sail 
from  Corinth,  Mount  Khelmos  on  the  left,  6,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  and  source  of  the  river  Styx,  with 
Parnassus,  the  home  of  the  muses,  on  the  riglit,  appear 
in  sight.  In  fact,  mountains,  plains,  and  rivers,  on  either 
hand,  are  all  famous  in  historic  interest,  and  could  fill 
many  a  letter,  which  time  will  not  allow  me  to  write. 

We  touched  at  Mesolonglii,  celel)ratcd  in  the  Greek  war 
of  independence  of  1822,  and  the  spot,  of  Lord  Byron's 
death.  Three  hundred  (ireeks  here  defended  themselves 
against  14,000  Turks  for  two  months,  and  then  by  explod- 
ing the  powder  magazine  involvL'd  themselves  and  their 
besiegers  in  one  common  ruin.  It  was  l)ravery  worthy  of 
ThermopyliC. 

From  this  })lace  (Corfu)  we  shall  sail  to  Brundisi,  and 
from  thence  to  Naples,  visiting  Rome,  Florence,  A'enice, 


340  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

and  Milan,  on  our  way  to  Switzerland.  On  our  return  to 
Paris,  which  may  be  about  the  first  of  September,  we  ex- 
pect to  go  by  way  of  Germany  to  Holland  and  Brussels. 

Our  entire  trip  so  far  has  been  delightful.  I  do  not 
think  we  have  suffered  so  much  with  heat  as  you  have  in 
Manchester,  and  am  sure  we  have  not  felt  it  more  than 
we  usually  do  at  home  during  the  summer  season.  In- 
deed, our  interest  in  all  the  lands  we  have  visited  has  far 
exceeded  our  most  sanguine  expectations,  but  Greece, 
especially,  with  its  incomparable  islands  and  seas,  its  beau- 
tiful architectural  remains,  its  liaunts  of  famous  men  and 
gods,  its  shrines  of  poetry  and  eloquence,  called  forth  all 
our  enthusiasm.  But  I  must  hold  :  as  we  approach  lands 
more  frequently  traveled  and  strike  into  the  great  tide  of 
siglit-seers,  I  shall  not  attempt  to  trouble  you  with  my 
impressions  until  we  meet  at  the  Willows.  We  shall 
probabh-  return  l»v  the  \\ay  <^f  England,  Scotland,  etc., 
and  hope  to  reach  home  about  the  last  of  October,  unless 
sooner  called  V)v  some  unforeseen  emergency. 

Paris,  September  7,  1878. 
I  havt,'  ordered  the  chime  of  l)ells  of  Me- 
neely  &  Kimborly,  of  Troy.     You  will  remember  that  I 
proposed  to  give  a  cliime  of  not  less  than  5.000  pounds, 
but  tinding  that  tlje  heavier  set  would  l)e  very  much  bet- 
ter. I  concluded  to    order   one   weighing    7,500   pounds. 
Probably  the  manufacturer  has  called  on  you  ere  this  and 
examined  the  l)ell-tower.         ...... 

We  celebrated  July  4  in  Pompeii,  where  we  had  the 
rare  good  fortu«ie  to  witness  the  progress  of  some  very 
important  excavations,  and  were  among  the  first  to  see  a 
richly  decorated  room  of  a  fine  house  brought  to  sight 
for  the  first  time  in  eighteen  hundred  years.  The  colors 
on  the  walls  were  as  fresh-looking  as  those  put  upon  our 
own  house  four  vears  since.     We  were  allowed   to  take 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  341 

some  colored  fragments  of  this  room.  What  a  fearful 
hour  to  the  inhahitants  of  this  house  and  city  that  over- 
whelmed them  without  warning  in  one  common  grave! 
A  great  space  has  been  uncovered  since  I  was  here  in 
1862  :  then  a  portion  of  the  city  about  equal  in  extent 
to  Manchester  had  been  brought  to  light ;  now  about 
twice  that  space  is  open  to  view.  I  was  told  that  the 
gold,  jewels,  and  ornaments  that  have  lain  all  these  years 
mingled  with  the  bones  of  the  owners,  have  nearly  paid 
the  expense  of  the  excavation,  though  this  must  be  (juite 
heavy,  as  the  covering  is  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  in  depth. 
From  Naples  I  can  do  no  more  than  indicate  to  you  our 
route.  We  remained  in  Ivome  a  week  and  then  went  by 
way  of  Florence,  \"enicc,  and  Milan  into  the  Italian  lake 
country,  thence  to  Switzerland,  crossing  the  Alps  by  the 
Mt.  St.  Gothard  Pass,  stop})ing  one  night  on  the  summit 
in  midst  of  snow,  which,  after  the  heat  we  had  felt  so 
many  days,  was  a  most  grateful  experience.  We  ascended 
Mt.  Kighi,  not  unlike  the  ascent  by  rail  of  Mt.  Washing- 
ton, visited  Altorf  and  the  localities  celel)rated  l)y  the  ex- 
ploits of  Tell,  stoi)ped  a  while  at  Lucerne,  from  thence 
to  Interlaken,  visiting  the  Glendenwald  glacier.  From 
thence  through  Berne,  Zurich,  and  Basle  into  Germany, 
making  brief  stops  at  Heidelberg,  Strasl)ourg,  Baden- 
Baden,  Frankfort,  and  Weisbaden,  and  then  down  the 
Rhine  to  Cologne.  From  Cologne  we  made  a  run  by 
way  of  ILunburg  and  Lubec  to  the  Baltic  Sea ;  then  to 
Amsterdam  and  the  Hague,  and  through  liotterdam,  Ant- 
werp, and  Brussels  back  to  I'aris.  Since  leaving  Paris 
we  have  traveled  by  sea  and  land  about  I9IOO  miles,  have 
looked  on  twelve  seas,  sailed  on  the  waters  of  ten,  passed 
through  fourteen  different  countries  speaking  as  many 
different  languages,  all  of  which  we  have  studied  and  spoken 
more  or  less.  We  have  always  found  good,  clean  beds,  fair 
food  (though  T  suppose  we  have  eaten  cats,  dogs,  rats,  and 


342  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

mice,  but  as  we  did  not  know  it,  it  was  just  as  well). 
Sometimes  E.,  with  a  woman's  curiosity,  would  ask, 
"  What  is  it  ? "  but  I  generally  relieved  her  by  quoting 
the  Scripture  injunction,  "  Eat  what  is  set  before  you, 
asking  no  questions."  We  have  not  received  an  unkind 
word,  or  one  uncivil  act,  missed  a  train  or  boat,  or  met 
with  any  accident  worth  naming  while  traveling  by  rail, 
steam,  carriage,  horse,  or  donkey,  nor  have  seen  a  person 
intoxicated  since  we  left  home. 

Of  course,  we  have  witnessed  many  interesting  inci- 
dents, not  a  few  of  them  of  an  amusing  character.  From 
the  time  we  sailed  from  Marseilles,  May  16,  until  August 
8,  when  we  met  ex-Governor  Gregory  Smith  and  family 
at  Baden-Baden,  we  met  no  person  we  had  ever  seen 
before,  witli  the  exception  of  Minister  Maynard  at  Con- 
stantinople and  Minister  Reed  at  Athens.  As  we  look 
over  our  wanderings,  it  is  difficult  to  realize  that  all  tlie 
delightful  people  we  have  seen  were  utter  strangers  to  us 
when  we  left  home.  Still,  I  assure  you  we  don't  forget 
our  old  friends,  whom  we  hope  soon  to  meet  again. 

The  places  we  have  visited  in  England,  Holland,  France, 
and  Germany  show  very  little  change  since  T  was  here  in 
1862,  but  in  Italy  great  progress  is  visible.  Then  Austria 
held  a  part  and  the  Pope  governed  the  Koman  States ; 
now  it  is  a  united  government  under  one  head.  The 
people  are  pleased  with  the  change,  like  their  govern- 
ment, and  are  rapidly  im]>roving  in  agriculture,  education, 
and  everything  that  makes  a  luijtpy  and  prosperous  nation. 
We  found  in  Italy  mucli  better  hotels  and  more  eomfort- 
able  arrangements  generally  for  travelers  than  in  (Jer- 
maiiy,  and  the  people  more  desirous  to  make  the  stranger 
within  their  gates  feel  at  home. 

At  the  time  we  left  Paris  for  the  East,  I  made  arrange- 
ments with  some  of  my  official  brethren  to  do  my  work, 
which  they  have  kindlv  done  ;  now,  in  return,  I  am  doing 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  348 

their  work,  and  expect  to  be  thus  employed  through  this 
month.  We  then  liope  to  miike  a  week's  visit  to  London, 
a  few  days  in  Scotland,  and  go  home  toward  the  last  of 

October 

FREDEKTCK  SMYTH. 

Ex-Governor  and  Mrs.  Smyth  were  the  recipients  of 
many  attentions  from  ministers  and  consuls  resident 
abroad,  particularly  at  Constantinople  and  Athens.  In 
Paris  they  were  among  the  few  invited  guests  at  the  din- 
ner of  the  Stanley  club  to  General  Grant,  and  were  also 
present  at  the  reception  given  by  the  American  Legation 
to  General  and  Madam  Grant.  With  a  trio  of  other 
ex-governors,  Hawley,  Hoffman,  and  Fenton,  he  was 
made  an  honorary  member  of  the  Stanley  club. 

Returning  home,  ex-Governor  Smyth  and  his  estimal)le 
wife  were  warndy  greeted  by  his  fellow-citizens,  and  he  - 
was  repeatedly  invited  to  narrate  his  travels  to  interested 
listeners.     He  at  once  "  fell  into  harness,"  and  resumed 
his  public  and  private  duties  with  that  unwearied  indus- 
try which  is  one  of  his  marked  characteristics.     Among 
the  various  public  positions  which  he  at  that  time  credit- 
ably tilled  arc  the  following  :   manager  and  vice-president 
of  the  x^ational  Soldiers"  Homes,  president  of  the  United 
States  Agricultural  Society,  trustee  and  treasurer  of  the 
Xew   Hampshire    College    of  Agriculture  and  Mechanic 
Arts,  director  of  the  Concord  and   Suneook  Valley  Kail- 
roads,  director  and  treasurer  of  the  Manchester  Horse  Rail- 
road, director  of  the  J^ational  Agricultural  Society,  ])resi_ 
dent  of  the  Xorthern  Telegraph   Com}tany,  [(resident  of 
the   Franklin-street    Congregational   Society,  trustee  and 
treasurer   of  the   Northern  Telegraph   Com[)any,  cashier 
and  manager  of  the  First  Xatioiud   P>ank  of  Manchester^ 
trustee   and   treasurer  of  the    Merrimack    Iviver  Savings 
Bank.      Prominent  among  these  voluntary  services  were 
those  reiulered  by  him  during  his  twelve  years'  service  as 


344  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

a  manager  of  the  National  Soldiers'  Homes.  Acting  on 
his  often  expressed  idea  that  no  man  ought  to  take  an 
office  of  the  kind  unless  he  was  willing  to  devote  to  the 
discharge  of  his  duties  all  the  time  and  effort  required,  he 
traveled  many  hundred  miles  annually  on  visits  of  in- 
spection at  Dayton,  Milwaukee,  Hampton,  and  Augusta, 
and  to  he  present  at  meetings  of  the  board  in  AYashing- 
ton,  besides  giving  his  personal  attention  to  the  admission 
of  soldiers  to  the  Eastern  Branch,  all  this  A\itliout  other 
compensation  than  that  which  arises  from  a  consciousness 
of  duty  done. 

The  ex-governor's  long  and  varied  experience  in  public 
and  financial  affairs,  in  acquaintance  with  men  in  every 
walk  of  life,  and  in  travel  abroad  and  at  home,  made  his 
conversation  very  interesting  when  he  could  be  induced 
to  indulge  in  reminiscences  of  what  he  called  his  ''  vaca- 
tions of  a  busy  life."  His  house  at  Manchester  was 
filled  with  works  of  art  and  souvenirs  of  travel  from  many 
lands,  each  with  its  story,  and  he  entertained  there  many 
distinguished  guests  besides  his  "troops  of  friends." 
Successful  himself,  his  advice  was  frequently  sought,  — 
not  only  on  financial  and  political  matters,  —  but  on  a 
great  variety  of  other  subjects,  some  of  which  he  had  no 
knowledge  of  whatever.  He  always,  however,  cheerfully 
counseled  those  who  solicited  his  advice,  and  cordially 
lent  a  helping  hand  to  those  who  were  trying  to  help 
themselves. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

1I0MA(JE    TO    THE    UNKNOWN    DEAD. 

At  the  niomorial  exercises  held  in  May,  1880,  l)y  tlie 
Louis  Bell  Post  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic,  at 
Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  ex-Governor  Smyth  deliv- 
ered, by  invitation,  tlie  following  oration  to  the  "  Un- 
known Dead  "  :  — 

Mr.  ComxMander,  A'eterans  of  the   Grand  Army,  and 
Citizens  : 

You  have  invited  me  to  deliver  the  oration  to  tlie  "  un- 
known dead,''  and  your  secretary,  the  veteran  soldier 
whose  name  is  appended  to  your  very  flattering  invita- 
tion, tells  this  touching  story.  Xo  doubt  there  are  thou- 
sands very  much  like  it, — scenes  incident  to  that  war  so 
long  past  that  were  it  not  for  these  observances  it  would 
seem  but  a  dream. 

Of  his  own  brother  he  says  :  "  Although  I  served  in  the 
same  company  with  liim,  and  was  wounded  in  the  same 
battle  at  Drury's  Bluff,  yet  all  we  know  concerning  him 
is  that  he  was  reported  '  missing  in  action."  But  we  were 
always  consoled  by  the  fact  that  the  last  seen  of  him  he 
was  tiring  his  revolver  within  a  few  rods  of  the  enemy, 
when  nearly  every  man  was  on  the  retreat."  And  so  the 
young  soldier  fell  in  the  line  of  his  duty.  I  hear  the  guns 
and  see  the  smoke  and  fire  of  that  great  battle-field ;  and 
I  see  this  young  man  fall  in  the  midst,  and  vanish  from 
human  eyes  forever.  And  is  that  all  ?  Xo,  Mr.  Com- 
mander and  friends,  not  all !  Far  better  this  than  to  drop 
by  the  way  out  of  the  ranks  of  everyday  life,  no  sacrifice 
made,  and  no  duty  done.     And  why  do  we  say  that  of 


346  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

such  are  the  unknown  dead  ?  Are  they  not  known  and 
remembered,  and  honored  by  the  manner  of  their  death? 
True,  they  may  sleep  in  unknown  graves  beyond  the 
reach  of  our  flowers  of  May  or  June,  and  so  we  strive, 
with  whatever  eloquence  we  may  possess,  to  frame  more 
immortal  and  imperishable  wreaths  to  crown  their  memory. 
Whatever  the  most  impassioned  orator  or  poet  may  be 
al)le  to  say  or  sing  concerning  them,  I  am  sure  the  half 
can  never  be  told.  In  the  ranks  of  the  common  soldier, 
true  heroism,  unselfish  love  of  country,  pure  devotion  to 
})rinciple,  were  ruling  motives  ;  and  we  know  that  as  they 
were  great,  generous,  and  devoted  in  their  lives,  so  now 
the  whole  country  becomes  their  honored  and  eternal 
resting-place.  In  what  little  corner  or  on  what  old  battle- 
field, under  what  stretch  of  ocean  wave  or  on  what 
storm-racked  mountain-side  they  sleep,  it  matters  little ; 
because  everywhere  the  monument  of  their  heroic  sacri- 
fices is  seen  in  every  noble  enterprise  and  institution  of 
the  country,  and  the}'  are  forever  made  a  part  of  its  glory 
and  its  greatness. 

I  liave  said  that  such  instances  were  numerous.  After 
the  first  day's  battle  at  Gettysburg,  and  on  many  other 
battle-fields  during  the  great  struggle,  the  dead  were 
hastily  buried  upon  the  held,  and  the  renewal  of  the  con- 
test effaced  every  vestige  of  the  trust  committed  to  that 
soil.  But  from  such  deaths,  and  out  of  sucli  hidden 
graves,  come  forces  whicli  make  it  possible  for  the  Tiiited 
States  to  become  the  foremost  nation  in  all  the  world. 
Unknown,  indeed,  is  the  sj»ot,  l)ut  not  therefore  unre- 
membered.  All  the  more  we  may  never  forget,  because 
the  memorial  is  intrusted  to  our  hearts.  Too  often  we 
raise  the  shaft  and  build  the  mausoleum,  and  then  go  on 
our  way  forgetting;  but  that  which  is  enshrined  in  the 
universal  memory  of  mankind  shall  be  handed  down  in 
souiT  and  storv  till  time  shall  be  no  more.       Wliat  flower 


HOMAGE    TO    THE    UNKNOWN    DEAD.  347 

can  match  the  sweetness  of  their  endeavor  ?  What  laurel 
wreath  on  any  monument  of  stone  or  bronze  can  compare 
with  the  beauty  of  the  ideal  that  enshrines  the  memory 
of  those  we  love?  And  when  can  we  forget  those  we 
saw  following  the  roll  of  the  drums  down  these  long 
streets  ?  —  men  about  whom,  as  they  went,  a  cloud  of 
anxious  solicitude  was  silver-lined  with  blessings  and 
hopes  and  prayers.  The}'  did  not  all  return  ;  but  in  the 
households  and  by  the  firesides  of  their  kin  they  have 
been  a  living  presence  ever  since.  Their  dust  in  some 
unknown  s[)ot  mingles  with  its  parent  earth,  and  from 
thencetbrth  tlie  soil  of  the  whole  country  becomes  sacred 
with  the  blood  of  martyrs.  The  land,  the  sea,  the  sky, 
we  call  our  country,  becomes  doubly  dear  to  every 
thoughtful  lover  of  his  race,  after  a  consecration  sealed 
by  such  a  baptism.  To-day  let  us  rcmend^er  the  lesson 
with  peculiar  pathos  and  significance.  Voices  from  these 
nameless  resting-places  do  charge  us  to  be  good  and  true 
citizens,  to  neglect  no  duty,  and  to  answer  every  call  of 
our  country. 

It  is  not  merely  a  matter  which  concerns  us  alone, 
whether  or  not  we  till  our  part  in  the  great  civil  contest 
in  the  laud  now  and  ever  going  on.  The  influence  of  our 
action  or  the  penalty  of  our  misdeeds  will  be  felt  in  gen- 
erations yet  to  c(Mne.  And  how  small  the  requirement, 
how  easy  the  task,  compared  with  tl)e  l)urdens  they  were 
compelled  tol)ear.  War,  friends,  is  a  terrible  thing,  even 
in  the  l)est  of  causes,  and  no  one  wlio  has  ever  seen 
men  fall  on  tlic  battle-field,  or  wlio  has  witnessed  the 
cruel  scene  when  the  contest  is  over  and  the  action  lost  or 
won,  will  desire  to  resort  to  that  dread  ordeal  on  any  plea 
save  that  of  the  utmost  necessity.  It  was  not  my  lot  to 
engage  in  the  conflict,  but  I  have  seen  something  of  the 
passions  which  war  lets  loose  upon  this  fair  earth,  f  have 
seen  men  shot  down,  have  helped  rescue  the  wounded  and 


348  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

bury  the  dead,  and  I  assure  you  that  the  prophetic  vision 
of  New  Ilarapsliire's  greatest  son  was  in  nothing  too  pre- 
scient when  he  said :  "  When  my  eyes  shall  be  turned  for 
the  last  time  to  the  sun  in  heaven,  may  I  not  see  him 
shining  on  the  broken  and  dishonored  fragments  of  a 
once  glorious  Union ;  on  States  dissevered,  discordant, 
belligerent ;  on  a  land  rent  with  civil  feuds,  or  drenched, 
it  may  be,  in  fraternal  blood." 

And  so  I  cannot  help  but  see  that  the  strongest  i)lea 
from  these  unknown  graves  is  for  peace,  and  for  such  wise, 
statesmanlike  conduct  as  shall  make  peace  [)Ossible,  nay, 
as  shall  make  war  im})Ossible.  Wliat  monument  so  noble 
can  we  build  as  that  of  a  nation  devoted  to  peace  ?  How 
can  we  give  so  great  value  to  their  sacritice  as  by  making 
it  serve  the  best  and  wisest  of  human  ends,  —  that  of 
spreading  peace,  not  only  between  sections  of  our  own 
land,  but  among  other  nations.  May  God  speed  the 
time  when  a  great  international  court  of  arbitration  may 
settle  all  our  serious  disputes,  and  the  great  armies  of  the 
world  may  disband,  and  turn  their  mighty  energies  to  the 
arts  that  make  for  the  happiness  of  mankind  I 

We  know  the  gloss  that  literature  has  thrown  about 
this  deadly  tiling:  but  those  who  go  down  into  this  char- 
nel-house of  death  know  how  cruel  and  horrible  is  the 
reality.  Peculiarly  this  lesson  of  peace  comes  from  those 
the  manner  of  whose  death  was  so  impressive  and  so  soli- 
tary, so  far  from  friends  and  home,  and  destined  so  to  re- 
main, and  of  each  of  wlioiii  it  may  be  written,  as  it  was 
of  another :  — 

"  Not  a  drum  was  heai'd,  not  a  funeral  note, 
As  his  corse  to  the  rampart  we  humed ; 
Not  a  soldier  dist.-harged  his  farewell  shot 
O'er  the  grave  when;  our  hero  we  Ijuried. 

We  buried  him  darkly  at  dead  of  night, 

Th(!  sods  with  our  bayonets  turning; 
By  the  stniggling  moonbeams'  misty  light, 

And  the  lantern  dimly  burning. 


HOMAGE  TO  THE  UNKNOWN  DEAD.  349 

Few  and  short  were  the  prayers  we  said, 

And  we  spoke  not  a  word  of  sorrow  ; 
But  we  steadfastly  gazed  on  the  face  of  die  dead. 

And  we  bitterly  thought  of  th<;  morrow. 

Slowly  and  sadly  we  laid  him  down, 

From  the  field  of  his  fame  fresh  and  gory ; 

We  earved  not  a  line,  we  raised  not  a  stone,  — 
Hut  we  left  him  alone  with  his  glory."" 

These,  friends,  are  hut  the  fiuniliur  hues  of  our  school- 
(hiys,  —  lightly  learned  and  lightly  deelainied  then,  hut 
invested  with  what  tragic  intensity  and  nieuning  hy  the 
events  of  those  sad  years'  Some  of  us  have  heard,  as  we 
hastily  iierfornied  the  last  sad  service  for  some  hoy  from 
the  Xew  iram])shiri' hills, — 

"  The  distant  and  random  gun 
niat  the  foe  was  sulhinly  liring.""  — 

and  we  have  felt  that  somewhere,  in  some  cottage  home, 
a  mother  we[)t  for  her  ''  unreturning  hrave"";  and  we  know 
that  the  country  for  which  such  price  is  )»aid  cost  too 
much  to  he  carelessly  hartered    away. 

I  think  much  of  this  ATemorial  Day,  with  its  simple 
and  touching  rites,  hecause  it  does  honor  to  whom 
honor  is  due.  On  other  occasions,  and  in  other  lands, 
the  leader  is  the  man  honored.  The  private  soldier  is 
thought  to  have  no  v-laim  for  consideration,  no  ear  for 
praise.  To-day  we  crown  the  multitude  of  men  whose 
hands  actually  bore  the  tlag  to  victory.  A  little  illustra- 
tion may  explain  my  meaning.     At ,  a  regiment  was 

ordered  to  take  a  certain  redouht.  As  the  charge  took 
place,  lialf  a  dozen  men  were  seen  a  dozen  paces  in  ad- 
vance of  the  regiment.  They  fell,  victims  to  the  enemy's 
sharpshooters  and  their  own  impetuous  zeal  and  courage. 
The  armies  swe}>t  on.  Those  six  heroes  occu}»ied  un- 
known graves,  —  at  least,  no  one  heard  of  them  after, — 


350  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

and  a  brief  line  in  the  dispatches  announced  that  Colonel 
Blank  gallantly  carried  the  position.  Yet  Colonel  Blank 
was  in  no  more  danger  than  I,  for  we  were  together 
in  the  rear.  So,  to-day,  we  call  back  the  remem- 
brance of  the  country  to  the  bravery  of  that  advance 
guard.  Unflinching,  they  went  to  the  ordeal  where  we 
sent  them,  and  I  suppose  that  in  the  exultation  of  the 
battle-hour  they  fell  without  fear  or  pain.  But  ah  !  the 
dreadful  to-morrow,  when,  after  the  chill  of  the  long, 
long  Tiight,  the  sun  rises  on  sufl^ering  such  as  one  prays 
to  be  delivered  even  from  the  sight  of 

Do  not  understand  me,  friends,  as  undervaluing  those 
who  took  up  arms  in  the  defense  of  liberty.  I  only  seek 
to  show,  if  possible,  how  great  the  work,  how  severe  the 
trial,  and  how  imi)ortant  the  lesson  we  should  learn.  If 
one  can  rise  from  the  thought  of  all  this  and  go  ibrth  no 
better,  no  wiser,  no  truer  man,  then  indeed  for  him  this 
great  work  will  have  been  done  in  vain  ;  and  were  there 
many  such,  we  might  despair  of  the  Kepublic.  But  tliis 
occasion,  with  its  moving  thousands,  tells  me  it  is  not  so; 
these  flowers  that  willing  hands  have  brought,  these  trib- 
utes from  many  homes  and  hearts,  prove  that  the  lesson 
abides  and  is  bearing  fruit.  As  Israel  turned  and  wept 
toward  the  mountain-top  where  the  angels  of  God  had 
buried  her  great  law-giver  in  an  unknown  grave,  so,  rev- 
erently, and  with  uncovered  heads,  we  bring  ofl^erings  to 
our  vanguard  in  the  struggle  through  the  wilderness. 
With  hearts  full  of  devotion  to  the  country,  and  eyes 
clear  from  the  mist  of  prejudice  and  bitterness,  let  us  date 
from  such  auspicious  days  a  renewed  determination  to 
make  our  heritage  worthy  of  the  sacrifice  that  pi'eserved 
it  to  us.  Some  things  need  to  be  guarded  against.  Let 
us  shun  all  dritt  toward  any  sentiment  of  violence,  all 
careless  and  thoughtless  talk  about  resorting  to  the 
sword  to  cut  knots  that    calm    discussion   could  as  well 


HOMAGE  TO  THE  UNKNOWN  DEAD.  351 

unloose.  Let  us  learn,  friends  and  fellow-citizens,  how 
much  nobler  and  better  it  is  to  deal  justly  and  walk  up- 
rightly in  all  that  concerns  our  dealings  between  man 
and  man,  and  State  and  State,  than  it  is  to  allow  wrong 
to  grow  by  insidious  degrees  until  it  hardens  into  ada- 
mant. In  such  ways  shall  we  rear  a  monument  to  our 
dead  that  sleep  in  unknown  graves,  worthy  of  the  great 
cause  of  equal  rights  and  of  human  liberty,  and  that 
shall  overtop  the  grandest  piles  of  pyramid  and  tower 
the  world  has  ever  seen. 


CHAPTEK    XXXA^ 


IN    THE    AMP:K1(AN    TROPICS. 


In  February,  1881,  ex-Governor  and  Mrs.  Smyth  left 
home  for  Xew  Orleans,  leisurely  journeying  by  way  of 
Louisville,  jSTashville,  and  Montgomery,  and  reaching  the 
queen  city  of  the  South  on  Washington's  birthday. 
They  remained  at  the  St.  Charles  Hotel  during  the  carni- 
val season,  visiting  meantime  Lake  l^onchartrain,  the  old 
Spanisli  fort,  the  orange  groves  and  rice  ticlds  about,  and 
various  other  })oints  of  interest.  Early  in  the  month  of 
March  tliey  left  ria  Galveston  for  Vera  ('ruz,  and  arrived 
in  the  city  of  Mexico  on  the  loth.  Tlje  approach  to 
Vera  Cruz  was  full  of  interest.  Orizaba,  which,  though 
nearly  a  hundred  miles  iidand,  seemed  to  he  but  an  im- 
mediate background  to  the  fortitied  city  and  its  strip  of 
sandy  beach,  lifted  its  head  almost  18,000  feet  into  the 
clear  sky,  and  all  things  had  the  charm  of  a  new  and 
tropical  land.  At  Vera  Cruz,  Major-dleiicral  ( )rd  and 
son,  who  were  en  rontf  tor  the  Mexican  ca[ntal  by  the 
same  steamer,  renewed  an  acquaintance  of  some  years" 
standing  with  Cloveriior  Smyth,  and  with  characteristic 
courtesy  invited  him  and  his  wife  to  a  banquet  at  the 
house  of  Senor  Landero,  the  Mexican  minister  of  finance. 
The  occasion  was  a  very  pleasant  one,  in  which  all  seemed 
to  unite  in  making  it  agreeable  to  Mrs.  Smyth,  the  oidy 
lady  present.  At  tlie  close  of  the  banquet,  tliey  took 
the  cars  and  with  an  armed  escort  proceeded  to  the  city 
of  Mexico.  "The  road  over  which  we  traveled,"  said 
(Governor  Smyth  to  a  friend,  "  is,  perhaps,  as  wonderful 
and  successful  a  |»iece  of  engineering  as  is  to  be  found  on 


IN    THE    AMERICAN    TROPICS.  353 

this  continent.  It  was  twenty  years  in  buil(lin«j^,  cost 
J$80,000,000,  and  is  263  miles  lon<r.  The  mountain  por- 
tion of  the  track,  about  sixty  miles,  is  carried  at  a  gradi- 
ent of  about  133  feet  to  tlie  mile,  until  it  reaches  a  height 
of  8,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  ascent 
across  ravines,  over  torrents,  through  tunnels,  and  around 
curves,  doubling  upon  itself  like  a  coiled  snake,  discloses 
a  variety  and  beauty,  a  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  scenery 
that  sur[)asses  any  description  I  can  give  you.  All  the 
while  the  mighty  Orizaba,  nearly  three  times  as  high  as 
Mount  W^ashington,  is  in  sight.  In  the  course  of  this 
ride  the  great  double  engines,  each  doing  twice  the  work 
of  our  heaviest  locomotives,  take  us  up  the  steej)  grade 
at  the  rate  of  tifteen  miles  an  hour.  The  climate,  as  we 
go  up,  varies  from  100°  to  r)5°,  and  plantations  of 
oranges,  })ine-a[)ples,  bananas,  cocoanuts,  coffee,  rice, 
sugar-cane,  and  tobacco,  display  their  luxuriant  growth  on 
either  hand  in  bewildering  profusion.  And  then  the 
rtowers,  growing  in  perfect  tangles  each  side  of  the  road, 
orchids  in  wondrous  beauty,  oleanders  forty  feet  high, 
morning-glories  climbing  and  comjtletely  covering  trees 
like  the  largest  elms,  so  that  the  morning  sun  lights  up  a 
bou(piet  tifty  feet  in  diameter,  whose  stem  is  the  tree 
ti'unk.  and  whose  colors  rival  the  rainbow:  and  in  all  this 
fragrant  scene  are  flitting  birds  of  gay  plumage.  Fairy- 
land could  offer  no  more  delightful  coml)ination  of 
charms,  nor  Paradise  itself  display  more  beauties  to  de- 
light the  eye."" 

Oui'  travelers  were  delighted  with  .Nfexico,  the  situ.ition 
of  \\hich  is  remarkable  among  all  the  cities  in  the  world. 
Kleviited  H,000  feet  al)Ove  the  sea  level,  on  a  [ilain  twenty 
by  thirty  miles  in  extent,  it  is  yet  surroundeil  by  ]noun- 
tains  so  high  that  it  really  constitutes  a  basin  inclosed 
^vitllin  a  barrier  of  ])ei'petual  snow.  The  highest  oF  these 
mountains  are  I*opocata}ietl  and  I/taci-iliuatl,  17,')40  and 


354  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

15,705  feet  in  heisrht.  Whichever  wav  one  walks  through 
the  streets  of  the  city  this  immense  mountain  barrier  is 
visible,  and  seemingly  not  more  than  ten  miles  away, 
though  it  is  probably  more  than  tifty  miles  distant.  The 
air  there  is  so  highly  rarefied  that  meat  exj)osed  to  the 
hot  sun  dries  without  putrefaction,  and,  although  the 
drainage  of  the  city  has  run  into  the  dead  lake  for  hun- 
dreds of  years,  no  such  harm  ensues  as  one  would  natur- 
ally expect.  The  sewers  have  to  l)e  uncovered  and 
frequently  cleansed,  as  they  are  only  two  feet  deep,  but 
tlie  city  is  comparatively  healthy.  The  question  of  drain- 
age, however,  has  excited  mucli  attention,  and  an  appro- 
priation has  recently  been  voted  l)v  the  Mexican  Congress 
to  that  end.  The  great  lake  has  no  outlet,  and  how  to 
|)ierce  the  mountain  chain  for  a  lower  level  is  a  difficult 
and  costly  problem. 

The  climate  was  thought  by  the  Xew  Ham})shire  vis- 
itors to  be  delightful  —  the  average  temperature  being 
about  00°,  and  tlie  air  tempered  every  day  l)y  the 
cool  mountain  l)reezes.  The  air  is,  owing  to  its  rare- 
faction, sometimes  difficult  for  dwellers  in  lower  latitudes 
to  l)reathe  (everyl,>ody  breathes  faster  there  than  in  Xew 
England),  but  it  is  preferable  to  that  of  Cuf)a.  The 
liouses  are  gayly  colored,  and  many  very  substantially  and 
handsomely  built.  Such  as  are  not  white,  or  liglit  yellow, 
or  green,  are  tinted  with  various  shades  of  red  :  many  of 
the  churches  are  }>ink.  Three  or  four  hundred  yards  of 
a  street  in  jiink  has  n  pretty  eflect,  especially  if  continued 
in  i)ale  green.  A  house  in  gray  stone  adjoining  another 
faced  ^\•ith  blue  encaustic  tiles  is.  to  say  the  least,  jjleasing 
to  eves  \\iiicli  have  gazed  on  dwellings  of  dull  re<l  l)i-ick. 
Tlie  tloating  garden-beds  that  supjdy  the  city  with  \ege- 
tables.  fruits,  and  flowers,  are  pleasantly  spoken  of  l.ty 
all  tourists:  but  it  a])iiears  that  these  Ijeds  do  not 
jiioN'e :  tlie\'  are  ni()ore(l   to  tlic  bottom   b\-  large  stakes, 


IN   THE    AMERICAN   TROPICS.  355 

which  themselves  throw  out  roots  and  contribute  to  the 
stabiUty  of  the  plats. 

They  visited  and  were  iiiuch  interested  in  the  Konian 
Catholic  cathedral,  which  is  regarded  as  the  largest,  most 
elegant,  most  costly,  and  in  every  Avay  the  finest  church 
building  on  the  American  continent.  It  is  300  years 
since  this  immense  building  was  begun,  and  more  than 
200  since  it  was  finished ;  yet  it  does  not  bear  the  appear- 
ance of  great  age,  although  nearly  all  tlie  materials  in  it, 
except  the  imported  metals  and  precious  stones,  were  cen- 
turies old  when  Columbus  first  sailed  across  the  Atlantic, 
for  it  was  largely  built  of  the  stones  of  the  Aztec  temple 
that  stood  u}»on  precisel}-  the  same  site,  and  that  was  de- 
stroyed by  Cortez.  It  stands  at  one  end  of  the  plaza  or 
public  square,  and  one  of  its  corners  is  diagonally  across 
the  street  from  one  of  the  corners  of  the  ISTational  Palace. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  fence  of  chains  large  enough  and 
lieavy  enough  to  anchor  a  man-of-war,  each  of  the  stone 
posts  being  surmounted  by  a  huge  stone  skull,  to  remind 
the  passers-by,  so  it  is  said,  of  death.  To  enter  the  cathe- 
dra] it  is  necessary  to  make  your  \vay  through  a  score  or 
more  of  beggars,  who  are  always  kneeling  and  lying  or 
standing  about  the  entrance.  These  people  exhil)it  tlieir 
pleasant  little  deformities  to  you  as  you  go  in,  —  such  as 
stumps  of  arms,  aiul  legs  tied  up  in  knots,  and  heads 
twisted  around  sideways,  and  horrible  sores,  —  and  beg  for 
charity.  The  })reseuce  of  this  brigade  in  the  vestiljule 
keeps  that  \rdvt  of  the  church  smelling  like  an  army  hos- 
pital, where  the  liniments  and  medicines  and  bandages 
give  a  peculiar  perfume.  The  vestibule  is  roughly  made 
of  l)oards,  and  looks  rather  as  if  it  might  be  the  entrance 
to  a  country  saloon.  The  Mexicans  have  a  remarkable 
wav  of  keei)in<'-  evc-rvtliina'  about  a  buildinii-  in  t;:oro;eous 
style  but  one  place,  some  (hx^rway.  or  a  little  room  fenced 
off,  which  they  are  satisfied  to  have  in  the  roughest  style 


356  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

possible,  sometimes  even  of  iinplaned  boards.  But  once 
througli  tbe  Ijeggars  and  the  sliabby  vestibule,  the  Xew 
Hampshire  visitors  found  themselves  in  a  church  such  as 
they  had  never  seen  before  in  America.  It  is  so  divided 
into  comparatively  small  spaces  by  the  numerous  altars, 
and  organs,  and  other  paraphernalia,  that  its  immense  size 
is  hardly  apparent  on  the  inside.  It  is  a  maze  of  gilt  and 
paintings  and  statues,  and  everything  beautiful  to  please 
the  eye. 

When  ex-Governor  Smyth  was  asked  what  character- 
istics mark  Mexico  as  a  foreign  city,  he  replied  :  "  Street 
customs  for  one  thing,  — Indian  water-carriers  with  their 
quaint  jars  strapjied  across  the  forehead  ;  then  all  the 
country  produce  is  brought  in  on  the  backs  of  mules, 
donkeys,  and  Indian  men  and  women.  Some  of  these 
men  and  women  will  bring  200  or  300  pounds  of  wood, 
coal,  ice,  or  whatever  it  may  be,  from  the  mountains,  and 
you  will  often  see  a  woman  with  an  infant  strapped  to  her 
back  with  arms  and  legs  free  and  kicking  about,  and  this 
balanced  by  a  load  of  produce.  These  Avomen  are  dressed 
in  a  single  cotton  garment,  certainly  scanty  at  both  ends, 
with  no  covering  for  head  or  feet.  The  men  of  this  class 
al)out  ditto."  Trade  was  carried  on  mostly  by  foreign- 
ers—  English,  Americans,  French,  and  (Germans,  There 
are  no  manufactures,  and  the  supplies  of  machinery,  dry 
goods,  shoes,  hats,  etc.,  are  mostly  brought  from  across 
the  Atlantic,  and  paid  for  in  silver.  The  favorite  bever- 
age is  '•  pulque,'"  which  is  the  fermented  juice  of  the 
maguey  plant,  and  by  distilling  it  a  tire-water  is  produced 
called  "■  mescal,''  which  bears  about  the  same  relation  to 
it  that  whiskey  does  to  lager  beer.  Fine  fruits  are  raised 
for  the  markets  of  ^fexico,  and  there  is  an  aV)undant  sup- 
ply of  bright  tiowers,  made  into  immense  bouquets,  which 
are  sold  very  cheap. 

The  ex-irovernor  and  his  wife  made  excursions  to  the 


IN   THE    AMERICAN   TROPICS.  357 

notable  places  in  the  environs  of  the  city,  including 
Guadalupe,  where  the  treaty  of  peace  was  signed  after  the 
war  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  Tacubaya,  a 
favorite  summer  residence  for  both  Mexicans  and  foreign- 
ers, where  General  Grant,  then  a  lieutenant,  had  his 
quartermaster's  depot  when  he  was  in  Mexico  with 
Scott's  victorious  army.  They  visited  also  Puebla  de  los 
Angeles,  the  pyramid  Cholula,  and  the  famous  Castle  of 
Chapultepec,  and,  in  short,  left  no  point  of  great  interest 
unseen. 

On  the  13th  of  March  they  returned  over  the  Vera 
Cruz  railway  and  took  passage  on  the  steamer  City  of 
Washington  for  Cuba.  It  was  a  pleasant,  summer-like 
voyage  to  Havana,  and  they  remained  in  that  city  two 
days,  tiuding  the  climate  rather  enervating  and  the  people 
not  so  interesting  as  those  they  had  left  in  Mexico.  In 
April  they  were  home  again  at  the  Willows  ;  and  for  a 
brief  time  there  is  nothing  worthy  of  record,  except  pos- 
sibly a  little  ride  one  day  in  June  to  the  old  homestead  in 
Candia.  The  governor,  Mrs.  Smvth,  his  only  sister,  Mrs. 
York,  and  liis  cousin,  Mr.  J.  Bailey  Moore,  after  an  early 
breakfast  at  the  Willows,  rode  to  Allenstown  and  dined  with 
two  venerable  relatives,  Mrs.  Martin,  then  aged  eighty-nine, 
imd  Miss  Meliitable  Smith,  aged  eighty-one.  While  the 
noontide  repast  was  in  preparation,  the  gentlemen  lislied 
in  the  Suncook  with  no  very  great  success,  and  the  ladies 
in  the  house  discussed  old  times.  In  the  afternoon  they 
drove  to  Candia  Xorth  road,  visited  the  old  homestead  of 
ex-Governor  Smyth,  and  from  the  summit  of  Hall's  moun- 
tain surveyed  with  a  powerful  glass  the  wide  familiar  view 
so  pleasant  to  them  all.  It  was  at  this  or  some  subse- 
quent period  that  the  ex-governor  bought  the  schoolhouse 
where  he  attended  school  in  his  youth,  which  remained 
in  very  much  the  same  disreputable  condition  that  it  was 
in  fifty  years  l>efore,  and  ordered  it  repaired  to  serve  as  a 


358  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

cliapel  for  Elder  Harvey,  who  frequently  preaches  in  that 
district.  They  drove  home  by  way  of  the  old  schoolhouse 
on  the  turnpike,  where  Mrs.  Smyth  had  formerly  taught, 
and  by  the  one  at  Martin's  Ferry  where  the  ex-governor  had 
iilled  a  similar  position. 

Somewhat  later  in  the  month  they  accompanied  the 
Kew  Hampshire  Press  Association,  by  invitation,  on  an 
excursion  to  Saratoga,  Xiagara  Falls,  and  from  thence  by 
the  Thousand  Islands  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal. 
After  tlie  usual  round  of  sight-seeing  and  a^brief  time  at 
the  Windsor,  the  party  returned  by  Lake  Memphrema- 
gog  to  Manchester. 

Li  September  occurred  the  death  of  President  Garlield, 
and  on  Monday,  the  26th,  the  day  of  his  burial,  the 
Franklin-street  church  held  a  memorial  service.  The 
pastor,  Rev.  W.  V.  W.  Davis,  spoke  briefly  on  "  Our  Dead 
Hero,"  Mr.  F.  B.  Eaton  on  "  The  Christian  Statesman,'' 
and  Mr.  Marshall  P.  Hall  on  "  The  Self-made  Man."  Ex- 
Governor  Smyth,  who  presided  as  president  of  the  society, 
spoke  as  follows  :  — 

"  My  Friends:  What  a  day  is  this  !  Fifty  millions  in 
our  own  country,  the  people  of  the  civilized  world,  and 
some  even  in  Asia  and  Africa  at  this  liourare  mourning  the 
loss  of  one  good  num.  With  us  they  drop  the  sympathetic 
tear  as  his  renuiins  are  consigned  to  the  tomb.  For  the 
second  time  in  sixteen  years  this  people  and  society  have 
assembled  in  this  place  and  united  in  solemn  memorial 
services  over  a  martyred  President.  Lincoln  and  Garfield 
were  in  many  resi)ects  alike,  and  yet  how  unlike.  Both 
raised  to  thishigh  position  without  their  seekingand  against 
their  expectations  ;  l)oth  sincerely  mourned  at  their  death. 
You  have  asked  for  some  jtersonal  reminiscences,  but 
time  will  hardly  allow.  I  may  say,  however,  that  it  was 
my  privilege  t<»  know  them  both  well.  Six[months  before 
Mr.  Lincoln  was  nominated  he  told  mc  here  in  Manchester 


IN    THE    AMERICAN    TROPICS.  359 

that  he  did  not  desire  the  nomination,  and  liad  no  idea  he 
sliould  receive  it.  I  saw  Mr.  (Tarfield  during  all  the  days 
of  the  Chicago  convention,  and  know  that  all  his  eflbrts 
were  sincei'ely  given  to  procure  the  nomination  of  another 
up  to  the  very  moment  when  the  entire  convention,  as  if 
moved  hy  a  Divine  and  over-ruling  hand,  as  I  helieve, 
changed  suddenly,  astonishing  all  the  actors,  and  none 
more  than  Mr.  Garfield  himself. 

"I  first  knew  him  in  Ohio  fourteen  years  ago,  and  every 
year  since  have  met  him  there  and  in  Washington.  He 
impressed  me  as  one  of  the  hest  men  in  every  way  that  I 
have  ever  known.  His  genial  and  at  times  even  playful 
nature,  his  wit,  which,  like  a  brook  from  an  ever-living 
spring,  seemed  exhaustless,  and  above  all  the  soul  of  the 
man,  which  seemed  to  love  everybody  and  to  hate  nobody, 
and  which  yet  had  a  perfect  hatred  of  mean  acts,  made 
him  the  most  agreeable  and  instructive  of  companions. 
He  was  a  true  and  reliable  friend,  loved  hy  all  good  men, 
and  especially  1)}'  the  friends  and  neighbors  who  knew  him 
best.  Always  true  to  liis  convictions,  nothing  could 
swerve  liim  from  the  course  he  thought  right.  He  in  jio 
sense  appeared  to  be  aware  of  his  higli  personal  position, 
never  seeming  to  think  that  he  was  superior  to  his  neigh- 
bors or  friends  in  general.  I  remember  to  have  heard 
him  make  a  motion  in  Congress  of  a  political  nature 
which  I  afterward  told  him  I  thought  was  a  mistake. 
Most  men  would  have  argued  the  fpiestion,  but  he  good- 
naturedly  said,  'AVell,  I  think  so  myself.* 

•'l)Ut  I  must  hasten.  How  strange  that  such  a  noble  man, 
raised  to  tiie  jiosition  he  was  so  well  qualified  to  fill,  hav- 
ing tlie  confidence  of  his  countrymen  and  the  favorable 
regards  of  the  civilized  world,  should  l)e  permitted  to  be 
struck  doAvn  at  the  very  moment  when  he  seemed  most 
needed  for  the  best  interests  of  hunuinity.  ^Ve  cannot 
now  tullv  understand  this.     You  ymw  >av  it   is   for  one 


360  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

reason,  and  I  for  another;  but  He  who  pennitted  it  only 
knows. 

"I  will  only  sjteak  of  one  lesson  from  Mr.  Garfield's  life. 
He  once  said  :  '  I  must  be  true  to  James  A.  Garfield,  with 
whom  I  have  always  got  to  live.'  If  we  are  conscien- 
tiously true  to  ourselves,  we  shall  not  need  to  make  special 
effort  for  influence,  position,  or  favor:  we  shall  be  true  to 
our  neighbors,  our  country,  and  our  God.  The  world 
soon  finds  out  the  man  or  woman  of  true  goodness,  and  it 
seems  to  me  that,  bad  as  it  is,  the  world  loves  and  respects 
righteous  men  better  than  wicked  men.  This  man  of 
huml)le  birth  and  simple  life  was  raised  to  the  highest 
position  in  the  land  by  being  faithful  and  true  in  every 
duty  he  undertook.  Let  us  learn  from  it  that  in  God's 
way  true  greatness  cannot  be  divorced  from  goodness, 
and  that  'righteousness  exalteth  a  nation.' '" 


CHAPTER   XXXVI. 

DINNER    TO    HON.  MARSHALL    P.  AVILDER. 

A  coMPLixMENTARY  bauquet  was  given  at  the  Parker 
House,  in  Boston,  on  tlie  22d  of  September,  1883,  to  the 
Hon.  Marshall  P.  Wilder,  on  his  completing  the  ripe  age 
of  eightj-tive  years.  It  was  attended  by  over  one  hun- 
dred gentlemen,  including  some  of  the  most  distinguished 
<'itizens  of  Massachusetts  and  the  other  Xew  England 
States,  many  of  whom  were  inspired  by  the  occasion  to 
make  eloquent  speeches.  Ex-Governor  kSmyth,  on  being 
<.*alled  upon,  spoke  as  follows:  — 

Mr.  President  and  Gentlemen  : 

I  count  it  a  high  honor  and  great  privilege  to  sit  at  this 
table  with  so  many  venerable  and  distinguished  men  of 
Massachusetts  and  Xew  England,  and  especially  so  on 
such  an  auspicious  occasion  as  the  birthday  of  my  hon- 
ored and  venerated  friend.  Although  associated  with 
him  ofHcially  in  the  United  States  Agricultural  Society, 
the  American  Pomological  Societ}',  and  other  organiza- 
tions, for  more  than  thirty  years,  I  have  been  his  pu}>il, 
sitting  at  his  feet  and  learning  wliat  I  could,  not  only  of 
scientific  pursuits  akin  to  agriculture,  but  of  those  graces 
and  virtues  as  well  which  adorn  the  civilization  of  our 
time  ;  and,  while  revering  him  as  a  master,  loving  liim 
as  a  friend  above  most  other  men  whom  it  has  been  my 
good  fortune  to  know. 

The  president  of  your  Agricultural  College  has  told 
me  how  niucli  Colonel  AVilder  has  done  for  the  schools 
and  colleges  of  Massachusetts.  Why,  Mr.  President,  I 
consider  Marsliall   P.  Wilder  a  t'ollc<2:e  himself,  a  ijreat 


362  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

university,  from  which  lias  gone  out  to  the  people  a 
knowledge  made  practical  by  the  tests  of  his  experience. 
To  minister  to  the  delight  of  the  eye,  or  to  the  pleasure 
of  a  healthy  and  refined  appetite,  is  an  object  worthy  of 
any  man's  attainment ;  and  so  thousands  may  bless  the 
thoughtful  care  of  that  |)ublic  benefactor  whose  wealth, 
acquired  in  an  honorable  mercantile  career,  has  been  de- 
voted to  such  wonderful  improvements  in  the  fruits  and 
flowers  of  our  land. 

Mr.  President,  and  gentlemen,  I  have  the  honor  to  rep- 
resent here  the  State  which  claims  the  pride  to  be  the 
birthplace  of  our  honored  friend.  The  i)e(^i>le  of  New 
Hampshire  to-night  greet  Marshall  P.  Wilder  on  the 
eighty-fifth  amiiversary  of  his  birth,  and  they  liope  and 
pray  that  his  life  may  be  spared  yet  many  years  to  bless 
those  who  have  so  many  reasons  to  bless  him.  And  I 
know  they  are  })roud  to  have  given  so  good  and  so  great 
a  man  to  Massachusetts.  Xew  Hampshire  once  had  a  dis- 
tinguished son  whom  she  delighted  to  honor  as  a  great 
man  at  liomc,  but  it  was  said  that  when  he  was  called  to 
spread  himself  over  tlie  whole  land  lie  was  rather  thin ; 
but  here  is  one  who,  if  I  may  so  s})eak,  has  spread  him- 
self not  only  over  our  States  and  Territories,  but  over 
lands  across  the  sea,  a  genial  and  gentle  ruler,  and  yet 
with  no  diniinuti(»n  of  his  substantial  presence,  or  in  all 
that  is  glorious  and  lovable,  (^od  still  continue  to  bless 
Marshall  P.  Wilder,  until  glorified  above! 

Perhaps  no  member  of  the  Kepnl)lican  i>arty  ever  en- 
joyed greater  po[>ularity  among  our  fellow-citizens  of 
Irisli  descent  in  Manchester  than  Governor  Smyth.  His 
prompt  action  in  l)elialf  of  Captain  Healey  is  an  indica- 
tion of  the  quality  that  })roduces  this  poi)ularity.  In  the 
fall  of  188:3,  the  Redmond  l)rothers  were  presenting  the 
cause  of  Ireland  in  this  conntrv,  and  one  of  them,  the 


CAPT.  healey's  release.  363 

Hon.  John  E.  Redmond,  M.  P.  for  Wexford,  spoke  in 
Smyth's  hall.  The  reception  committee  consisted  of  ex- 
Governor  Smyth,  Messrs.  John  Huyes  and  Patrick  Fa- 
hey.  The  daily  papers  of  the  city,  in  their  report  of  the 
speeches,  published  the  governor's  letter  to  Secretary  Sew- 
ard, printed  on  page  208  of  this  sketch,  with  the  reply^ 
and  also  the  following  remarks  of  Capt.  P.  A.  Devine,  a 
prominent  Irish-American  citizen  of  Manchester,  who 
said  that  a  gentleman  had  l)een  selected  to  act  as  chair- 
man of  the  evening,  who,  although  not  of  Irish  national- 
ity, had  ever  manifested  his  sympathy  in  every  possible 
way  for  the  cause  of  Ireland.  As  an  illustration  of  what 
the  speaker  stated,  he  referred  to  the  incident  of  Captain 
Healey's  release  from  arrest  while  in  a  British  prison,  at 
the  instance  of  Governor  Smyth,  and  read  tlie  correspond- 
ence as  given  previously.  The  result  was  the  release  of 
Captain  IFealey,  "which,"  said  Mr.  Devine,  "the  governor 
brought  about  without  having  once  been  asked  to  inter- 
fere; and  this  is  the  man  who  has  rightly  l)eeu  selected  to 
preside  at  this  meeting.  I  take  pleasure  in  introducing 
to  you  ex-Go\eruor  Frederick  Smyth." 

As  the  latter  stepped  forA\'ard,  the  report  goes  on  to  say, 
he  was  greeted  with  a  stoi-m  of  applause  that  tairh'  made 
tlie  building  tremble,  and  after  waiting  for  the  demonstra- 
tions to  subside,  the  war  governor  spoke  as  follows  :  — 

"  Fellow-citizens  :  I  cheerfully  accepted  the  invitation  of 
your  committee  to  act  as  chairman  of  this  meeting,  for  I 
l)elievc  in  yonr  })urpose  to  raise  up  the  lowly  and  o[)- 
pressed  and  to  break  the  bonds  of  the  oppressor. 

"  The  English  Government  acts  under  false  pretenses,  and 
I  remL'ml)er  not  many  years  ago  to  have  heard  that  great 
num  and  true  patriot,  Wendell  Pliillips,  speak  of  the  Gov- 
ernment of  England  as  the  most  hypocritical  on  the  face 
of  the  earth.  I  tbonght  at  the  time  that  be  had  made  an 
extravagant  s]ieech,  but  I  have  since  learned  to  think  dif- 


364  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH, 

fereiitly.  I  have  seen  that  heavy  hand  laid  upon  Ireland, 
on  Egypt,  on  Turkey,  and  on  other  countries,  and  I  am 
oonvineed  that  England  seldom  does  what  she  professes. 
She  sinks  her  claws  into  her  victims,  and  never  with- 
draws them  until  forced  to  do  so.  More  than  any  other 
■one  thing,  she  fears  the  public  sentiment  of  America,  and 
with  good  cause.  I  have  been  asked  what,  as  a  nation, 
we  have  to  do  with  this  quarrel  ?  Well,  I  answer  that 
Irish  blood  has  been  freely  spilled  on  all  our  battle-tields, 
and  it  sends  its  warm  thrill  through  the  veins  of  more 
than  half  our  English-speaking  population. 

"  In  the  name  of  the  people  of  Xew  Hampshire  and  the 
name  of  the  citizens  of  Manchester,  I  welcome  a  repre- 
sentative Irishman  here  to-night,  and  now  have  the  pleas- 
ure of  introducing  to  you  the  lion.  John  E.  Redmond." 

May  30,  1884,  Mr.  Smyth,  who  had  been  a  director  in 
its  management  for  fourteen  years,  was  chosen  president 
of  the  Concord  Kailroad  by  a  verj-  unanimous  vote. 
Since  that  time  many  important  improvements  have  been 
carried  out,  and  others  are  in  contemplation  which  will 
make  the  road  one  of  the  safest  and  l)est  equi[)ped  in  the 
country. 

RECEPTION    OF    JAMES    (J.   BLAINE. 

On  tlie  fourth  and  tifth  days  of  September,  1884,  Mr. 
Blaine  was  in  attendance  on  the  Xew  England  Fair,  at 
Manchester,  and  was  the  guest  of  ex-Governor  Smyth. 
In  anticipation  of  this  event,  the  house  at  the  Willows 
was  i)Ut  in  readiness  under  the  immediate  and  careful 
supervisif)n  of  Mrs,  Smyth  to  receive  whoever  might 
acc(unpany  the  distinguished  visitor,  and  tlie  ex-governor, 
with  unstinted  hand,  ordered  illuminations  for  the 
grounds  and  caterers  for  the  tables,  that  all  honor  might 
be  ]taid  the  l\ei)uV)lican  nominee  for  the  Presidency.  Mr. 
Blaine  made  a  l)rief  address  at  the  Fair  on  Thursday, 


RECEPTION    OF   JAMES    «.    BLAINE.  365 

September  4,  and  was  afterwards  given  a  hancjuet  at 
the  Willows.  Tliere  were  present  Governors  Hale,  of 
New  Hampshire,  and  Bourne,  of  Khode  Island,  ex-Gov- 
ernors Cheney  and  Prescott,  Gen.  11.  N.  Batchelder, 
IT.  S.  A.,  ex-Senator  Rollins,  Senator  A.  F.  Pike,  lion. 
Moody  Currier,  Hon.  George  13.  Loring,  and  the  Kev, 
George  B.  Spalding,  1).  D.  Mrs.  Smyth,  assisted  l)y 
Mrs.  P.  C.  Cheney,  did  the  honors.  The  weather  Avas 
hot,  exhausting  to  the  last  degree,  hut  it  was  observed 
that  Afr.  Blaine  was  in  his  happiest  mood,  and  that  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Smyth  never  appeared  to  l)etter  advantage  nor 
entertained  with  more  cordial  or  winning  grace.  It  was 
almost  tlie  last  time  that  the  lady  of  the  house  presided  at 
that  hosi)itable  board. 

At  7  o'clock,  V.  M.,  a  vast  concourse  of  peo}tle  turned 
their  footsteps  toward  the  Willows.  The  moon  had 
arisen  in  beauty,  the  house  was  l)rilliantly  illuminated, 
and  lights  Hashed  from  the  tower  and  Hagstafl'.  Electric 
lights  were  displayed  from  the  windmill  tower  on  the 
grounds,  and  a  fine  military  band  sent  forth  its  inspiring 
notes  from  under  the  wide-s])reading  willows  at  the  south 
(^f  the  house.  Within,  every  room  was  thrown  open  and 
made  free  to  all  visitors,  many  of  whom  examined  with 
great  interest  the  stately  a}»artmcnts  with  their  jiictures 
and  furnishings.  Some  neighbors  and  near  friends  came 
early,  and  were  scattered  in  social  groups  about  the 
rooms.  Mr.  Blaine  took  his  p(\sition  at  the  foot  of  the 
staircase  facing  the  front  entrance,  accom[)anied  for  a 
time  by  ex-Governor  Smyth.  Xear  them  stood  Mrs. 
Smyth  and  >[rs.  P.  C.  Cheney  with  Mrs.  Dr.  Loring. 
Gen.  1{.  X.  Batchelder,  Hon. 's.  1).  Lord,  Col.  A.  W. 
C^uint,  (tcu.  Charles  Williams,  of  .\ranchester,  and  Aaron 
Young,  of  Portsmouth,  acted  as  ushers.  When  the 
doors  were  tlirown  open,  people  began  t(^  pass  in  in  a 
solid  column,  paid  their  rcs]»e('ts  to  Mr.  Plaine,  and  went 


S66  LIFE    OF    FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

out  at  the  eastern  and  northern  entrances.  For  a  time 
Mr.  Blaine  responded  to  the  greetings  of  his  friends  with 
his  accustomed  ease  of  demeanor,  but,  as  the  numbers 
swelled  to  tliousands,  was  obliged  to  withhold  his  hand 
and  answer  with  but  a  nod  and  smile.  The  heat  and  the 
crowd  made  it  a  severe  tax  on  his  endurance.  From 
7  to  10  p.  M.  the  tide  was  unabated,  and  many  went  away 
without  introduction.  Many  of  the  most  prominent  men 
of  the  State  were  present,  and  several  distinguished  gen- 
tlemen from  other  Kew  England  States.  There  was  noticed 
in  one  of  the  parlors  an  interesting  interview  between 
Gen.  iS".  P.  Banks  and  an  old  soldier  who  had  served 
under  him  in  Louisiana. 

During  the  time  of  the  reception,  people  sauntered 
about  the  grounds  in  the  grateful  coolness  of  an  out-door 
summer  night,  listening  to  the  music,  commenting  on  the 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  and  statuary,  or  lingering  at 
the  fountain,  —  a  good-natured,  orderly  multitude.  It 
was  thought  that  at  least  10,000  i)eople  passed  through 
the  hall,  and  many  more  contented  themselves  with  a 
glance,  and  did  not  attempt  to  enter.  At  10  o'clock,  Mr, 
Blaine  bade  tlie  visitors  good-niglit  and  retired  within. 

If  one  might  judge  from  appearances,  this  was  one  of 
the  brightest  of  all  the  festal  scenes  over  which  the  host 
and  hostess  had  presided,  and  yet  a  fatality  seemed  to  at- 
tend it.  In  less  than  six  months  three  prominent  gentle- 
men of  the  city,  all  near  neighl)ors,  ('ol.  Charles  E. 
Balch,  Dr.  Charles  Wells,  and  AVilliam  P,.  Wel)ster,  Es(i., 
were  stricken  down  In'  the  hand  of  death,  the  two  last 
named  suddenly,  and  also  the  accomplished  lady  of  the 
house. 

On  Friday,  Septemlier  12,  Mrs.  Smyth  lia<I  an  alarming 
attaek  whicli  was  thought  to  indicate  paralysis.  It 
yielded,  however,  to  treatment,  and  she  seemed  in  a  fair 
wav  to  recOA'cr.  but  through  the  sticceediiiii'  \\eeks  ^^•as 


RECEPTION    OF   JAMES    G.    BLAINE.  367 

not  ill  her  usual  liealtli.  In  November,  Dr.  William  A. 
Hammond,  of  I^ew  York,  was  consulted  with  some 
slight,  favorable  results,  but  on  her  return  home  she 
seemed  to  have  taken  a  severe  cold,  which  was  followed 
bv  an  ulcerated  sore  throat.  From  this  time  her  health 
steadily  declined.  Her  husband  engaged  rooms  for  her 
at  St.  Augustine,  Florida,  where  Dr.  Hammond  had  ad- 
vised her  to  s])eiid  the  winter,  but  she  never  gained  suffi- 
cient strength  to  undertake  the  journey.  With  alternate 
emotions  of  hope  and  fear,  the  weeks  passed  on.  Her 
attending  ])liysicians,  Drs.  Wheat  and  Ivobinson,  did  all 
tliat  their  experience  and  skill  suggested,  apparently  in 
vain.  Dr.  Hammond  was  twice  summoned  from  JS^ew 
York.  Mr.  Smvth,  wliile  manifevStino;  himself  the  stroiio^- 
est  hope  and  in  all  ways  striving  to  im})art  to  his  dearly 
beloved  wife  c(nn'age,  gave  up  all  other  cares  and  was 
rarely  out  of  the  sick-room.  On  Saturday,  January  10, 
after  conversation  with  her  pastor,  Rev.  George  B. 
Spalding,  J).  J).,  she  was  received  into  the  membership 
of  the  Franklin-street  church,  where  she  had  been  for 
many  years  a  constant  attendant,  and  in  the  Christian 
work  of  which  she  had  l)een  a  ready  and  cheerful  helper. 
The  next  day,  as  licr  husband  read  from  the  Bi])lo,  she 
retraced  with  mental  clearness  their  journeys  through  the 
Holy  Land  to  })laces  mentioned  therein,  dwelling  on  the 
tlienic  \\\\\i  evident  interest,  and  in  a  few  days  more,  on 
the  morning  of  the  14th,  she  was  summoned  home  to  the 
Father's  liouse.  Xo  \\'or(ls  can  tell  the  grief  and  utter 
prostratic^n  of  the  hiishand,  or  more  than  indicate  the 
wa\es  of  s(^rrow  that  sjiread  from  tlie  wee[)ing  u'ronp  of 
sistei's  and  tVieiids  in  e\'er-wideiiing  eireles  to  fai'thest 
shores. 

Ml".  Siuylh  earefiiUy  gathered  and  caused  to  he  })ub- 
lished  in  a  memorial  Nohuue  of  nearly  l.")0  ]>ages  the 
letters    of   consolation    and    regret,    [irefaced    by    a    steel 


368  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

engraved  portrait,  sketch  of  her  life,  and  the  eloquent  and 
appreciative  sermon  preached  on  the  occasion  of  her 
funeral  by  the  Rev.  George  B.  Spalding,  1).  J).  These 
letters  came  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  from 
England,  and  from  the  East,  written  by  statesmen, 
scholars,  clergymen,  missionaries,  and  by  honest,  simple- 
hearted,  everyday  friends  and  acquaintances,  all  testify- 
ing to  the  charm  of  her  life  and  the  value  set  upon  her 
friendly  regard.  Mrs.  Smyth  in  her  early  life  was  very 
beautiful  in  person,  a  beauty  which  she  retained  in  a 
remarkable  degree  in  advancing  years.  So  much  of  this 
beauty,  however,  Avas  due  to  her  manner  and  expression, 
that  neither  the  pencil  of  the  painter  nor  the  chisel  of  the 
sculptor  could  catch  and  convey  it.  A  portrait  taken  in 
recent  years  by  Tenney  gives  her  queenly  form  and  car- 
riage, a  bust  done  in  marble  at  Kome,  in  1878,  reflects 
something  of  the  rare  grace  of  her  girlhood,  but  neither 
these,  nor  the  engraving  in  the  memorial,  nor  the  many 
photogra[>h8  taken  from  time  to  time,  do  justice  to  the 
image  enshrined  in  the  hearts  of  those  who  knew  and 
loved  her. 

JOURNEYS    ABROAD. 

It  was  the  intention  of  Air.  and  ^Irs.  Smyth  to  have 
written  out  more  fully  the  incidents  of  their  foreign  jour- 
neys and  to  have  had  tliem  printed  for  private  circula- 
tion, as  well  as  to  tix  in  memory  a  thousand  pleasant  and 
interesting  matters  connected  with  souvenirs  the}'  had 
brought  to  the  Willows.  It  was  in  pursuance  of  some 
such  idea  as  this  that  the  following  notes  were  taken, 
Mrs.  Smyth  narrating  them  in  her  jtleasant  way  from  a 
note-l)ook  whicli  liad  accompanie<l  her  through  many 
climes,  leaving  to  the  writer  the  arrangement  and  tlie 
veriflcation  of  names  and  })laces.  It  was  on  the  evening 
of  tlie  20th  of  Deceni1)er,  1883,  by  a  cheerful  o[)en  nvoihI- 
tire  ill  the  di'awing-room,  that  tliis  fireside  journey  began. 


C    /7 ;  ; 7  ^     '^ 


/    ^  ' 


JOURNEYS    ABROAD.  369 

There  luiglit  have  been  more  of  it  to  record,  but  for  tlie 
fuct  that  the  note-book  most  prized  was  lost  ni  route. 

We  sailed  from  Xew  York  on  board  the  Cunard  Jioyal 
Mail  steamship  Servia  Wednesday,  December  13,  1882, 
in  a  storm  of  considerable  severity,  which  lasted  liowever 
only  twenty-four  hours.  The  steamship,  which  is  a  very 
tine  one,  took  a  more  southerly  course  than  usual  to  avoid 
the  gales  which  are  frequently  encountered  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  and  made  a  very  quick  and  pleasant  trip, 
reaching  Queenstown  on  the  20th  and  Liverpool  the  21st. 
In  the  way  of  companions  we  were  not  without  celebrities 
of  greater  or  less  degree,  having  a  live  lord,  who  luul  been 
shooting  out  West,  Madam  Lal)Ouchere,  who  gave  up  the 
tiisk  of  chaperoning  the  Langtry  and  was  going  home  in 
disgust,  Mr.  and  ^Trs.  U.  S.  Grant,  Jr.,  -\[r.  Sartoris,  and 
others.  We  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Musson,  a 
Barbadoes  planter  resident  in  London,  and  doing  business 
in  Montreal,  of  AN'liom  more  hereafter,  and  also  of  an  in- 
telligent but  somewhat  whimsicalGerman  with  a  crick  in 
his  back.  Ilis  helplessness  and  alarm  under  this  state  of 
things,  evidently  a  new  experience,  were  laughable.  Our 
detinition  of  this  malady  as  a  '-crick"'  did  not  in  the 
least  allay  his  fears,  and  what  with  tugging  about  alter 
him  with  \\rai)s  and  little  cushions  for  his  back,  and  lielp- 
ing  him  on  and  off  Avith  his  obdurate  shoes,  we  [tiled  up 
([uite  a  foiMuidable  claim  to  his  gratitude,  which  hoAvever 
he  acknowledged  }>rettily  enough  in  a  letter  from  his  old 
home  in  (iermany,  received  by  us  in  Paris.  The  thoughts 
inspii-ed  by  this  unlucky  malady  possibly  may  have  sug- 
gested the  lines  which  he([Uote<l  while  we  were  yet  miles 
from  the  great  city. 

•'  O  ixleanliu;;-  li^'hts  of  Loiuleii  town 
If  tears  your  lights  could  drown, 
Your  vietinr.s  eye  could  wiM'p  tliom  all, 
()  lights  of  J^ondon  town.'' 


370  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

London  at  Christmas  is  no  time  for  sight-seeing  in  the 
ordinary  sense  of  the  term.  The  whole  energy  of  the  pop- 
ulation is  spent  on  one  object,  and  to  this  end  everything 
converges.  Horses,  drivers,  passengers,  houses,  markets, 
streets,  stores  of  every  name  wear  or  bear  the  Christmas 
green.  There  is  no  trade  but  Christmas  trade,  no  other 
travel  or  thought  or  care,  and  so  we  were  very  glad  to 
accept  the  kind  invitation  of  our  friend,  the  planter,  and 
spend  Christmas  at  his  home  in  upper  iS'orwood,  a  suburb 
of  London  near  the  Kensington  palace.  An  invalid 
mother,  gentle,  ladylike,  pleasant,  nine  children,  beautiful 
with  tlie  charm  of  good  breeding,  a  house  not  large  as 
English  houses  go,  but  ample  enough,  with  lawns  and 
shrubbery  as  fresh  and  green  as  in  September,  revealed  to 
us  an  atmosphere  of  home  life  altogether  lovely. 

There  were  many  little  things  about  the  place  and  the 
ordering  of  the  dinner  which  seemed  like  a  page  out  of  a 
story.  The  family,  with  old  reverent  custom,  stood  while 
grace  was  said.  The  traditional  roast  beef  and  plum  pud- 
ding were  garnished  with  holly,  and  the  mistletoe  hung 
from  the  gas-}>endant  in  the  halls.  Before  dinner,  in  ac- 
cordance with  immemorial  usage,  we  attended  church. 
There  was  none  of  that  crisp,  cold  weather  so  mucli  to  be 
desired,  but  instead  we  walked  some  distance  through  a 
long  lane  and  down  a  muddy  road  in  a  genuine  English 
drizzle.  The  service  was  intensely  high  church,  and  to 
tell  the  truth  rather  drearier  than  the  weather,  but  no 
doubt  allowance  should  be  made  for  our  crude  American 
notions. 

At  dinner  the  plum  pudding  inclosed  a  ring,  a  sixpence, 
and  a  thimble.  Whoever  got  the  ring  would  be  wedded 
first,  the  thimble  betokened  an  old  maid  or  bachelor,  and 
the  six[)ence  was  for  good  luck.  Afterward  came  games, 
bonbons  with  mottoes,  blind  man's  buff,  hunt  the  slip[)er, 
and  other  pleasant  pastimes,  toned  down  a  little  by  the 


CHRISTMAS    TIME.  371 

sickness  of  one  of  the  sons  at  school,  who  was  unable  to 
enjoy  his  holiday  at  home.  Our  genial  host  is  at  present 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  sugar  in  Canada,  from 
cane  shipped  from  his  plantation  in  Barbadoes,  which, 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  he  is  said  to  do  at  a  profit.  The 
day  after  Christmas  is  called  "  boxing  day,"  and  a  fine  time 
we  had  in  trying  to  find  out  just  what  that  means.  At 
our  hotel  and  in  numerous  shops  we  asked  "  What  is  box- 
ing day?"  and  the  answer  was  very  uniformly,  with  an 
accent  of  the  greatest  surprise  at  our  dense  ignorance, 
"  Boxing  day  ?  Why,  it 's  boxing  day  ;  "  and  it  was  not  until 
consulting  Webster's  unabridged  we  found  that  a  "  box  " 
had  come  to  be  used  as  synonymous  with  a  Christmas 
present,  though  why  that  day  should  come  after  rather 
than  before  Christnuis  we  are  quite  unable  to  determine. 
The  day,  however,  was  quite  as  useless  for  any  other  pur- 
pose as  (Christmas  itself.  But  the  great  sights  we  had 
done  very  thoroughly  before.  The  Royal  Hotel  on  the 
Thames  embankment  near  Blackfriar's  bridge  was  near 
many  points  of  interest,  and  from  it  we  visited  the  Bank 
of  England,  St.  Paul's  cathedral,  Westminster  Abbey, 
and  on  Sunday  heard  Spurgeon.  It  was  rather  however 
for  the  purpose  of  rest  and  of  taking  our  start  leisurely 
that  we  spent  these  I^ondon  days.  On  the  28th  we  started 
for  Paris  rid  Dover  and  Calais,  a  short  trip,  and  having  to 
the   full  Macbeth's  (juality  of  doing, — 

"  If  it  were  done,  when  'tis  done,  then  "twere  well 
It  were  done  quickly  : '" 

The  uneasy  and  fretful  channel  welcomed  us  with  its 
usual  love  of  travelers.  Like  its  neighl)()rs  it  seems 
desirous  of  getting  the  most  out  of  them  ])ossible.  At 
first  we  were  charmed  with  the  alacrity  of  the  attend- 
ants who  shuffled  al)out  the  slippery  decks  with  wraps, 
tarpaulins,  and  bowls  in  hand,  and  were  Jiot  a  little  ])uz- 


372  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

zled  by  the  evident  delight  they  manifested  when  one  of 
the  unfortanates  paid  tribute  to  the  sea ;  but  it  all  was 
plain  when  we  learned  that  every  such  attention  involved 
an  extra  charge. 

Paris  fairly  swarmed  with  its  gay  crowd  on  Xew  Year's 
day.  Ever}'  conveyance  was  full  to  overflowing.  "We 
made  a  few  feeble  excursions  in  the  direction  of  the  Arc 
de  Triomjthe,  and  tried  to  take  in  a  little  of  the  abound- 
ing vivacity  and  life  of  the  scene,  but  soon  were  glad  to 
get  back  to  our  hotel.  Xew  Year's  does  not  seem  to  be 
a  day  of  the  eUfj',  but  rather  of  the  workmen,  artisans, 
laborers,  common  people  of  Paris  who  throng  every  ave- 
nue, monopolize  the  public  conveyances,  and  take  pos- 
session of  things  in  a  good-natured  w^ay  generally. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  the  year  1882  was  marked 
l)y  some  very  destructive  floods  in  the  valley  of  the 
Phone.  One  of  these  it  was  our  fortune  to  encounter. 
AVe  left  Paris  for  Geneva  on  the  8th  of  January  by  rail. 
Xear  that  city  we  had  our  flrst  view  of  Mont  Blanc,  and 
spent  three  days  very  pleasantly  in  the  city  of  Calvin, 
the  time  V)eing  lengthened  l)y  the  washing  out  of  a  tunnel 
on  our  road.  We  saw  the  house  of  Calvin,  the  church 
where  he  })reached,  and  his  chair,  o])jects  which  most 
Protestant  tourists  ask  to  see.  Leaving  Geneva,  we  were 
carried  around  the  crevasse  made  l>y  the  flood  in  an  omni- 
bus. Our  next  night  was  spent  in  Chamberry,  in  the 
valley  of  the  Arne,  about  sixty  miles  from  Geneva,  a  place 
known  to  remembrance  only  as  giving  name  to  a  certain 
kind  of  dress  goods  in  the  market  twenty-flve  years  ago. 
Such  is  fame.  From  thence  by  rail,  in  sight  of  the  fa- 
mous military  road  of  Xapoleon,  through  the  Mont  Cenis 
tunnel  to  Turin,  the  capital  of  l*iedmont,  whence  A'ictor 
Emanuel  came  to  give  liberty  to  Italy.  There  are  not  so 
many  memorable  things  in  Turin  worthy  of  more  than  a 
passing  mention,  l)ut  travelers  And  its  miles  of  arcades 


PARIS    TO    BARCELONA.  373 

convenient  for  shopping  in  rain  and  in  snn,  tlie  sidewalks, 
like  man}-  of  those  in  l*aris,  Ijeing  covered  hy  the  project- 
ing second  stories  of  the  houses.  From  Turin  we  went 
to  Genoa,  perhaps  quite  as  interesting  a  place  as  any 
among  the  famous  cities  of  old  time,  helonging  to  us, 
moreover,  by  all  the  associations  of  the  geographers  of 
our  youth.  If  ever  men  could  l)e  tempted  to  venture 
forth  u})on  unknown  seas,  naturally  it  might  happen  here 
on  the  famous  gulf  on  the  shores  of  the  blue  ^Mediterra- 
nean.  Most  curious  and  (puiint  is  Genoa  clinging  to  the 
hills,  its  streets  all  np,  up,  uj),  and  down,  down,  down, 
like  the  way  in  the  nursery  tale,  and  3'et  its  environs  are 
su}»erl).  Kesidences  built  of  marble  from  the  Simplon  in 
grounds  gay  with  tiowers  and  rich  with  statuary,  the  spa- 
cious promenade  on  the  (juay,  the  old  ])alaces  and  exten- 
sive fortifications,  all  testity  to  the  glory  which  even  yet 
lingers  on  (Jenoa  the  sui)erb.  It  is  only  within  a  few 
years  that  the  pecnliar  costume  which  lent  gi-ace  to  its 
women  has  given  Avay  to  modern  fashion,  and  even  now 
servants  retain  the  wliite  veil  and  discard  the  bonnet.  A 
specialty  in  manufacture  is  silver  filagree  work.  From 
Genoa  to  Nice,  along  the  liiviera  by  rail,  and  in  sight  of 
Cornice,  as  the  broad,  white  road  connuenced  by  Xa}»o- 
leon  is  called,  is  a  most  charming  route  nearly  a  hundred 
miles  on  the  slioi'e  of  the  Gulf  of  Genoa.  Mentone.  a 
famous  health  resort,  and  Monaco,  the  little  kingdom  of 
the  gamblers,  are  on  this  way,  where  also  are  traces 
of  the  l\omaii  footstep.  Xice  is  a  very  attractive  place  as 
to  ])osition  and  climate,  which  are  evi'rything  that  can  be 
desired,  but  it  is  all  a  great  hospital.  Amid  the  floA\ers 
and  the  ever-blooming  roses  we  could  but  forget  our 
American  winter.  From  Xice,  along  the  Riviera  still, 
and  for  the  most  part  within  sight  of  the  Nb'diterranean, 
sometimes  so  near  that  we  seem  to  l)e  actually  uTiding 
over  the  water,  and  the  spray  of  the  breakers  strikes  the 


374  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

car  windows,  we  go  by  rail  to  Marseilles  and  from  thence 
on  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Lyons,  across  the  eastern 
Pyrenees  into  Spain,  our  destination  being  Barcelona. 
This  is  one  of  the  few  Spanish  cities  which  have  retained 
somewhat  of  their  old  renown  as  commercial  points  of  in- 
fluence. The  province  of  Catalonia,  of  which  it  is  the 
capital,  is  filled  with  a  people  of  considerable  enterprise, 
active  in  trade,  commerce,  and  manufactures.  Connected 
by  rail  with  the  Atlantic,  the  riches  of  the  Levant  for 
hundreds  of  years  flowing  through  its  coffers  have  made 
Barcelona  the  rival  of  Genoa  and  Venice.  While  mainly 
rebuilt  in  accordance  with  modern  ideas,  some  quaint 
customs  remain.  The  night  patrol,  for  instance,  every 
half  hour  call  the  time,  devoutly  commending  all  good 
sleepers  to  the  care  of  some  saint  or  of  the  Virgin.  The 
wailing  monotone  in  which  this  is  done  has  an  indescrib- 
ably sad  efl'ect.  Then  the  trades  and  industries  have 
their  particular  habitat,  as  of  workers  in  iron  and  bronze, 
some  of  which  are  very  skillful,  and  the  street  of  the 
goldsmiths,  renowned  in  the  old  time  for  the  magnificence 
and  wealth  of  its  artificers,  and  still  worthy  of  attention. 
There  are  also,  as  in  all  Spanish  towns,  great  cathedrals, 
and  one  novelty,  at  least,  in  the  way  of  organ  pipes, 
which  are  horizontal,  and  seem,  as  it  were,  to  bombard 
the  licarer.  These  cloistered  churches  were  everywhere 
'  l)eset  by  beggars  gotten  up  regardless  and  with  ingenious 
combinations  of  misery  that  dety  description. 

After  two  days  in  Barcelona,  we  left  for  Saragossa,  the 
capital  of  Aragon.  The  Spanish  railway  system  is  slow, 
l)ut  we  did,  in  course  of  time,  across  the  l)arreii  and  des- 
olate waste  of  country,  here  and  there  diversified  by 
scanty  patches  of  olives,  reach  the  city  so  famously  de- 
fended against  tlie  French.  Here  the  scene  changes  for 
the  better,  for  this  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  valleys  of  the 
Ebro.  and    olive  <rroves,  orange  trees,  and  rich  ijardens 


SPANISH    NOTES.  375 

abound.  The  work  in  churches  and  cathedrals  is 
especially  magnificent,  and  the  wealth  and  votive  offerings 
untold.  The  church  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Pillar  lias 
an  image  of  the  Virgin  on  a  [)illar  of  alabaster.  The 
power  to  work  miracles  is  attributed  to  her,  and  the  })illar 
is  believed  by  the  faithful  to  have  descended  from  heaven. 
Such  costly  devotion,  the  evidences  ot"  whicth  are  every- 
where displayed,  goes  far  to  explain  tlic  zeal  that 
prompted  their  desperate  defense  in  1808.  We  saw  the 
leaning  tower  called  "  Torre  Xueva."  It  ai)peared  to  us 
to  lean  nearly  as  much  as  that  of  Pisn,  but  we  were  told 
that  its  inclination  was  only  half  as  gi-cat.  It  is  built  of 
stone,  octagonal  in  form,  and  said  to  be  of  the  mixed 
architecture  of  the  Moor  and  Spaniard.  From  Sara- 
gossa  and  Aragon  to  Castile  and  Madrid,  whither  we 
arrived  on  the  15th  of  January,  not  in  tiie  season,  that  is 
to  sav,  there  were  no  bull  tiirhts  and  no  leirislation  iroins: 
on,  in)  riots  or  revolutions;  but  there  was  bedlam  let 
loose  at  the  station,  where  an  army  of  shrieking,  gesticu- 
lating drivers  of  street  conveyances  ibught  over  us  and 
our  spoils,  and  threatened  to  tear  us  limb  from  limb,  .so 
far  as  any  ratioiuil  interj)retation  of  all  this  tremendous 
uproar  could  give  their  meaning.  However,  we  secured 
a  guide  who  eould  speak  English,  who  got  us  into  an  om- 
nibus and  to<)k  us  to  the  Hotel  de  la  Paix  in  the  I'uesta 
del  Sol,  —  (bite  oi'  the  Sun. 

The  environs  ot  Madrid  are  (k'solate  enough,  not  a  ves- 
tige of  Inunan  lial)itation,  no  shruhhery  or  trees,  l)ut  a 
sterile,  wiiul-swept  phiin,  hot  in  snnunei'  and  cold  in  win- 
ter. The  })lateau  u[»on  which  the  city  stan<ls  is  not  of  a 
nature  to  im[irove  the  climate,  hut  \vhat  nature  has  done 
so  little  for.  art,  wealth,  and  the  necessities  of  kings  have 
made  up.  Our  hotel  was  in  the  centtT,  from  which  many 
tine  thoroughfares  radiated,  and  a  good  place  tor  sight- 
seers.     The  fare,  like  all   S[)anish   cooking,  so  tar  as  we 


376  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

had  any  experience  of  it,  was  detestable,  lea^'ing  but  one 
impression, — garlic.  The  streets  were  filled  with  an  infi- 
nite variety  of  passengers,  among  which  predominated 
everywhere  the  priests,  stout,  rosy,  well-fed,  and  not  over 
courteous  in  manner.  Hidalgos,  gay  turnouts,  splendid 
horses,  magnificent  loafers  in  cloaks  worn  like  the  toga  of 
an  emperor,  and,  as  usual,  beggars  in  every  sheltered 
nook  or  warm  corner  in  the  winter  sun.  One  day  we 
caught  a  glimpse  of  King  Alfonso.  We  noticed  all  at 
once  hats  raised,  people  looking,  and  saw  in  a  close  car- 
riage a  young  man  in  citizen's  dress  and  stove-pipe  hat, 
with  no  guards  nor  outriders,  but  with  driver  and  foot- 
man. The  finest  turnouts,  however,  are  seen  upon  the 
Prado,  a  magnificent  promenade  most  fre(|uented  in  the 
winter  from  4  to  6  p.  m.,  and  in  summer  from  8  to  11 
p.  M.  TIr'  ^fadrelenos  are  very  fond  of  tlie  streets,  of 
the  theatres,  and  the  V)ull  ring.  They  seem  to  have  no 
domestic  life,  in  the  sense  tliat  we  know  of  it. 

Among  the  many  things  we  saw  during  our  four  days' 
r>ojourn,  some  will  not  readily  l)e  forgotten:  the  royal 
palace,  too  much  like  other  palaces  to  be  described,  the 
stables,  filled  with  the  most  Ix'autiful  and  costly  animals 
known  to  the  world  of  fashion  or  wealth,  l)looded  Ara- 
bians. Andalusian  barl)s,  ex(piisite  ponies,  curly  liaired 
Astrakhans,  many  \v\t\i  names  the  most  a}ii»roi)riate  and 
beautiful,  as  Maris,  the  favorite  horse  of  Mercedes:  the 
carriage  houses,  containing  over  one  hundred  con\ey- 
ances  of  all  sorts,  sizes,  and  ages,  presents  from  kings  and 
empei'ors.  two  from  Victoria,  one  from  Napoleon,  great 
lumbering  afihirs  of  state,  one  of  wliicli  is  said  to  have 
cost  over  §<»<', 000.  The  armory  contains  some  thousands 
of  Aveapons.  suits  of  mail,  costly  caparisons,  etc.  Among 
them  is  the  armor  woi'u  by  Colinubus.  The  bidl 
ring  is  an  am[»hitheatre  with  seats  for  12,000  ]»eo)»le. 
It    lulng   winter,  this  sport,  oi'   I'ather    torture,  was   not 


SPANISH    NOTES.  377 

oToins:  on.  To  our  Aiiieriean  Protestant  ideas,  the 
Clnircli  of  the  Atoeha  is  a  strange  phiee.  Here  all 
the  royal  ap}»arel  is  consecrated,  or  blessed,  whatever  the 
ceremony  may  denote,  and  here  the  royal  \vardrol)es  are 
left.  The  wedding  trousseau  of  Mercedes  is  here  shown: 
and  after  these  royal  bodies  have  worn  the  sanctity  otl' 
their  garments,  they  are  changed  for  a  fresh  lot.  The 
really  tine  thing  in  Madrid,  however,  whi<'h  is  not 
e(|ualed  in  the  world,  is  the  [ticture  gallery.  All  the 
nu)st  famous  masters  are  here  represented,  and  some  of 
them  l>v  great  nund)ers.  As  for  instance,  sixty-two  Uu- 
bens,  forty-six  Murillos,  forty-three  Titians,  etc.  Of 
course  from  such  a  plaee,  with  time  as  limited,  one  could 
bring  away  only  the  most  geiu'ral  im[)ressions,  l>ut  we 
remember  l)ettcr  than  othei's  certain  }iieces  of  Velas(picz 
and  Murillo. 

The  vega  tlirough  \\liich  one  a[)pr()aches  Toledo  was 
once,  we  are  assure<l,  a  most  fertile  expanse,  covered  with 
the  [)alni.  the  orange,  and  the  olive.  It  is  so  no  longer, 
but  the  al)sencc  of  beauty  here  only  serves  to  emphasize 
the  lordly  }»()sition  of  the  city,  perched  like  an  eagle  on 
clitfs  iiuiccessible  on  every  side  save  that  \\ashed  by  the 
Tagus.  It  is  one  of  the  most  characteristic  and  delight- 
ful places  we  visited.  IJomans,  Goths,  Jews,  Moors,  and 
S[ianiards  all  have  left  their  traces  here.  Synagogue, 
nios<|Uc,  and  catliedi'al  mark  the  changing  worshipers  as 
they  came  and  went.  The  cathedral  is  oik'  of  the  finest 
in  kSpain  and  was  commenced  in  1227,  as  usual  re[>lacing 
a  mos(pic,  was  2()(j  years  in  l>uilding,  and  is  consid- 
ered one  of  the  best  specimens  of  (^othic  heightened  l)v 
the  Moorish  idea.  ()n  the  outside  of  the  church  of 
San  Juan  de  los  keys  is  a  vei-y  singular  dra}iing  of  rusty 
chains  which,  however,  resolve  themselves  into  an  apjiro- 
priate  votive  offei'ing  when  we  learn  that  they  were  taken 
off  Christian  [irisoiiers  released  from  the  Moors.     The  in- 


378  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

terior  is  very  fine  in  general  effect  and  in  the  grace  of  its 
lines,  and  one  of  the  cloisters,  now  almost  in  ruins,  has 
some  exquisite  carving,  which  even  Xature,  in  its  tracery 
of  vines  and  wild  flowers  over  all,  hardly  excels.  The 
gates  and  doors  in  the  Alcazar  are  also  marvelous  in  de- 
sign and  workmanship  in  iron.  Every  one  notices  partic- 
ularly that  called  the  "  Gate  of  the  Lions."  The  famous 
steel  works,  now  perhaps  equaled  by  more  modern  man- 
ufactures, are  yet  of  a  great  interest  and  command  a  wide 
market  for  curios  on  account  of  their  ancient  renown. 
We  did  not  fail  to  visit  them,  and  bought  several  speci- 
mens in  the  shape  of  scissors,  carving  knives,  etc.  The 
work  is  ornamental  and  inlaid  in  gold  and  bronze. 

It  was  in  the  grand  church  at  Cordova,  if  we  may 
credit  the  author  of  Don  Quixote,  that  he  bought  from  a 
boy  what  appeared  to  be  waste  paper,  l>ut  which  turned 
(»ut  to  l»e  the  second  part  of  that  renowned  story. 
Whether  anything  more  in  the  line  ecclesiastic  ever 
issued  from  its  wonderful  niai'ble  aisles  we  do  not  know. 
It  was  once  a  mos(jue.  built  or  l^egun  m  784.  Its  exqui- 
site Moorish  arelies  stood  upon  a  tliousand  pillars  of  all 
the  various  marl)les  known.  The  roof  was  flat,  sup- 
ported l)v  beams  of  lignum  vitie,  whicli,  after  1,100  years, 
were  found  perfectly  sound.  The  domes  at  present  cov- 
ering the  roof  were  added  in  the  early  ]»ait  of  the  18th 
century.  In  the  eonrse  of  its  change  into  a  church  its 
beauty  was  mucli  defaced,  but  it  is  very  wonderful 
still.  In  one  of  the  forty-rive  chajtels  they  show  a  pilhir 
witli  a  rude  rejiresentation  of  the  crucirixiou,  said  to  have 
been  made  by  a  Christian  prisoner  with  his  nail  wjiile 
chained  there  as  a  prisoner  in  the  rnos(jUe.  The  Ak-azar 
must  have  been  beautiful  with  its  flowers  and  orange 
trees,  and  the  liridge  over  tlie  (iuadahpiivir  is  another  of 
the  interesting  structures  of  tliis  kind  with  which'Sjiain 
al)onnds.     In    fact,    one    knows    not    at    which    most   to 


SPANISH    NOTKS.  379 

wonder,  the  universul  Isi/iness  jiiul  shitrlessiiess  which 
bear  sway  in  this  priest-ridden  land,  or  the  immense 
energy  and  vigor,  the  taste  and  skill,  which  nuist  have  ex- 
isted to  produce  such  effects.  Although  there  is  now  hut 
scanty  vegetation  in  Cordova,  and  the  conduits  nnd  water- 
works are  neglected,  ther<'  are  in  the  suburbs,  or  within 
three  or  four  miles,  most  beautiful  drives,  whei'e  tlie  gi-oves, 
the  rose  gardens,  and  tlu'  \ines,  the  orange,  the  i»ine  tree, 
the  scarlet  oak,  the  i)alm,  the  myrtle,  and  tlie  olivi',  bear 
witness  to  the  veracity  of  the  early  Moorish  histoi'ians  as 
regards  this  earthly  [)aradise. 

The  route  by  rail  from  Cordova  to  Seville  is  eliarming 
beyond  description,  all  the  way  on  the  banks  of  the  oidy 
commercially  valuable  river  in  Spain,  the  ( iua(lal(|uivir. 
The  scenery,  the  country,  the  climate,  are  all  at  their  best. 
Xot  oidy  in  its  early  importance  Init  in  its  present  condi- 
tion is  Seville  interesting.  From  this  ])ort,  oi-  city,  (Jo- 
lumbus  and  Pizzaro  botli  set  sail  :  here  were  born  Velas- 
<[uez  and  Murillo,  and  here  ai'c  to  be  seen  some  ot"  tlieir 
finest  works.  It  is  useless  to  attempt  any  desci-iption  of 
the  magnificent  catluMlral,  which  setMiis  absolutely  I'ault- 
less,  and  which,  on  the  spot  alternately  the  woi'shij)ing 
place  of  the  votaries  of  Jove,  ot"  Mahomet,  and  ot"  Christ, 
seems  likely  to  stand  for  centuries  yet.  The  gardens  of 
the  Alcazar  are  exceptionally  fine  and  in  good  condition. 
Tlie  Alameda  is  a  most  beautiful  dri\e.  whei'e  wc  saw  the 
ex-C^ueen  Isabella,  a  pretty  coarse  specimen  of  royalty, 
driving.  She,  however,  had  the  couitesy  to  bow  to  us  as 
visiting  strangers.  We  visited  the  palace  ot"the  l)id<e  de 
Montpensier,  whose  great  wealth  has  done  much  in  Se\i]le. 
lie  has  restored  a  portion  ot"  the  Alcazar,  an<l  allow  s  vis- 
itors access  to  his  ])icture  gallery  and  tine  gardens.  It  is 
said  that  he  sold  §10,000  worth  of  oi'angcs  last  yrar  from 
his  estate.  lie  nuirried  a  sister  of  the  c.\-i|Uccii  and  was 
the  father  of  Mercedes,  who   was  so  >inc»'rcl\-  loNcd   and 


380  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

mourned  by  the  people.  In  the  cathedral  is  buried  the 
son  of  Columbus,  a  man  of  noble  character,  who  be- 
queathed his  library  to  the  city.  Among  the  many 
curious  things  we  sa\\'  was  the  house  l^uilt  by  a  certain  ]\far- 
quis  of  Taritfa,  in  1578,  who  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem 
and  brought  home  enough  of  the  sacred  soil  on  which  to 
found  this,  which  he  claims  to  be  an  exact  reproduction 
of  the  house  of  Pilate. 

At  our  hotel  we  encountered  an  English  artist,  who 
rendered  us  much  assistance,  and  one  day  asked  us  if  we 
would  not  like  to  see  the  gypsies  in  their  haunts.  To  get  up 
one  of  their  characteristic  dances,  it  was  only  necessary 
to  expend  a  cou|)le  of  dollars  for  a  little  of  the  country 
wine  and  to  keep  out  intruders.  lie  had  some  splendid 
models,  who  were  at  his  service  for  any  such  affair  and 
wlio  woidd  be  oidy  too  happy  to  oT)lige  him.  Of  course 
we  made  haste  to  avail  oursehes  of  his  offer.  He  there- 
fore previously  went  among  them  and  selected  some  half 
dozen  of  the  liandsomest  girls,  charging  them  to  put  on 
no  finery,  but  to  appear  in  their  characteristic,  everyday 
costume.  Their  music  consisted  of  something  like  the 
guitar  and  the  castanets,  and  they  all  })layc'd  while  keep- 
ing time  to  their  movements.  Some  of  them  were  really 
superb  in  their  dark-eyed  beauty,  which,  liowever,  was 
nf»t  altogether  of  a  saintly  character.  They  would  dance 
awhile  singly,  then  sip  a  little  of  the  wine,  smoking 
meantime  a  cigarette,  then  dance  again,  and  so  on.  It 
was  not  to  our  taste  greatly  attractive,  but  as  a  character- 
istic act  of  the  genuine  S[)[inish  gyj'sy  had  an  interest  of 
its  own. 

Se\'ille,  of  course,  abounds  in  souvenirs  of  the  great 
navigator:  here  is  his  monument  erected  by  his  son,  here 
the  identical  log-book  which  he  kei)t  on  board  the  I*inta. 

From  Seville  we  turned  our  faces  eastward  to  the  last 
stronghold  of  the   .\b:)ors  in  S[)ain,  where  for  more  than 


SPANISH    NOTES.  381 

two  c't'iituries  they  iiuitlc  the  phice  ;i  center  of  all  that 
was  heautiful  and  hixurious  in  Eastern  civilization,  arts, 
commerce,  learning,  agriculture,  and  wonderful  architec- 
ture, all  hearing  witness  to  the  vigor  of  their  civil  i)olicy, 
the  skill  of  their  artisans,  and  tlie  eliarm  of  tlieir  poetic 
fancy.  It  is  idle  to  attempt  any  description  where  count- 
less pens  have  failed  to  convey  the  impression  whicli  oidy 
sight  can  give,  hut  we  will  try  to  save  from  our  note-hook 
some  of  the  things  thatnuide  our  four  days'  stay  in  Gran- 
ada the  pleasantest  of  the  whole  journey.  To  hegin 
with,  the  route  from  iSeville  was  full  of  interest,  through 
rich  vegas,  the  orange  and  the  palm  on  either  side,  de- 
lightful mountain  scenery,  the  latter  part  hy  numerous 
tunnels  and  l)ridges  across  the  Sierra  Xevada,  wliose  cool 
hreezes  temper  the  summer  heat  of  Granada.  Arriving 
at  the  town,  we  were  driven  to  the  Washington  Irving 
Hotel  in  the  grounds  of  the  Alhamhra.  The  town,  or 
city,  stands  on  four  hills  at  the  extremity  of  a  heautiful 
plain,  divided  l)v  the  rivers  Darro  and  (Tcnil.  It  rises 
like  an  amphitheatre  from  the  i-iver,  and  the  height  (2,245 
feet  al)Ove  the  sea)  is  crowned  l)y  the  Alhamhra.  The 
plain,  or  vega,  one  of  the  most  fertile  spots  in  the  world, 
stretches  away  thirty  miles  to  the  foot-hills  of  tlie  Sierras. 
The  Alhamhra  is  situated  on  the  western  spur  of  a  ridge 
which  divides  the  two  rivers  ahove  named  and  is  itself  cleft 
from  the  othei'  terrace  of  the  ridge  hy  a  dee])  ravine.  At  the 
hotel  we  staid  four  days  and  as  fai-  as  possil)lc  studii'(l  the 
heauty  of  the  Hall  of  Amhassadors,  Court  of  the  I^ions, 
Hall  of  the  Ahencerrages,  the  (Queen's  Boudoir,  and,  in 
sh(M"t,  all  the  ohjects  to  he  seen,  only  with  regret  that  we 
had  not  more  time. 

Never  to  he  forgotten  was  a  vic\v  hy  mooidight, 
neither  the  trouhle  which  we  were  at  to  get  that  view. 
It  will  he  understood  that  the  liotel  occupied  a  level 
space  close  under  the  walls  of  the  inclosure  outside.     To 


382  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

get  through  the  walls  after  the  regulation  hour  (4  p.  m.) 
required  numerous  fees,  much  persuasion,  a  pass  from  the 
governor,  and  unlimited  patience.  Armed  with  our  pass, 
we  sallied  foi-th  with  our  guide,  hammered  away  loudly 
at  the  gate,  and  called  and  shouted  for  a  long  time  in 
vain.  All  was  as  fast  as  though  we  were  armed  besiegers. 
At  last,  in  a  distant  quarter  above  us,  a  window  was 
opened,  a  i»arley  ensued  between  the  keepers  and  the 
guide,  a  woman  bare-footed  came  shuffling  along  the  cool 
floors,  the  gateway  was  made  free,  and  we  entered.  It 
appears  that  the  custody  of  the  entire  affair  is  in  the 
hands  of  a  woman  and  lier  daughter,  who  were  naturally 
cautious  about  letting  in  strangers  at  night.  The  beauty 
of  the  scene,  however,  repaid  all  our  trouble.  The  white 
moonlight,  the  deep  shadows,  the  vast  towers,  the  musical 
trickle  of  the  fountains,  coml>iiied  to  impress  it  indelibly 
upon  our  memories. 

The  outer,  or  foi-tres8  walls,  are  on  an  average  6  feet 
thick  by  30  high,  supjiorted  at  intervals  by  buttresses  and 
towers.  Tliiy  inclose  an  area  2,4-30  feet  long  by  674  feet 
in  the  widest  jiart,  and  are  all  of  a  deep  orange  red,  that 
being  the  color  of  the  flint,  red  earth,  and  lime  of  which 
they  are  (•onq)Osed,  when  baked  in  the  sun.  As  is  the 
case  in  many  ruins,  time  has  dealt  more  kindly  with  them 
than  tlie  hand  of  man.  The  French,  when  they  gave  up 
the  place,  attempted  to  blow  uj»  the  walls,  and  earlier  still 
and  worse,  Charles  V  destroyed  half  of  the  Palace  of  the 
Sultans  in  order  to  build  one  for  himself,  which  he  did 
not  complete.  Here  were  apartments  for  summer  and  for 
winter  use,  the  former  overhaiiii^ins?  the  Darro  and  com- 
manding  a  view  of  the  Sierras.  Here  are  preserved  the 
archives  of  the  Alhambra  and  two  exquisitely  wrought 
marble  slabs  supposed  to  have  been  tables.  The  [)rinci- 
pal  entrance  to  the  Alhambra  is  called  the  "Gate  of  Judg- 
ment."    It  is  in  a  square  tower,  and  the  outer  horse-shoe 


SPANISH    NOTES.  383 

arch  is  28  feet  high,  ahove  which  is  carved  part  of  an 
arm  and  outstretched  hand  pointing  upward.  On  the  sec- 
ond, or  inner  arch,  is  a  symbolic  key.  The  legend  runs 
that  no  invader  could  ever  take  the  place  until  the  hand 
should  grasp  the  key  and  unlock  the  gate.  Here,  in 
accordance  with  Eastern  usage,  was  held  the  open  air 
court  of  the  Caliphs. 

The  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors,  or  throne  room  of 
the  Sultan,  occu[)ies  the  entire  area  of  the  tower  of  Co- 
niares.  A  beautiful  dado  of  colored  tiles  surrounds  the 
walls,  above  which  are  a  series  of  oval  medallions  with 
inscriptions ;  then  follow  the  windows,  three  on  each 
facade.  The  ceiling  is  beautifully  inlaid  with  white,  blue, 
and  gold  in  circles,  crowns,  and  stars.  The  artists  were 
Persian.  Xext  in  importance  to  this  is  esteemed  the 
Court  of  the  Lions,  so  called  from  the  central  fountain 
su[>ported  on  the  backs  of  twelve  lions  cut  in  white  mar- 
ble. The  main  basin  is  10^  feet  in  diameter  and  2  feet 
deep,  of  alabaster.  The  court  is  126  by  73  feet,  surrounded 
by  a  gallery  supported  on  124  marble  columns.  These 
pillars  are  irregularly  placed,  singly  and  in  pairs.  A 
pavilion,  with  domed  i-oof  and  curiously  wrought  lilagree 
walls  through  which  the  l)lue  sk}'  appears  like  a  back- 
ground, ])rojects  into  the  court  on  each  extremity. 

The  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages  is  so  called  from  the 
massacre  of  the  chiefs  of  an  entire  tribe  of  that  name  by 
Boabdil,  a  piece  of  vengeance,  however,  which  did  not 
save  him  his  throne.  Its  arches  and  roof  are  especially 
beautiful,  and  the  view  thence  to  the  Court  of  Lions  very 
charming.  East  of  the  Court  of  Lions  is  a  long  gallery 
divided  into  alcoves  and  called  the  "  Council  Room  of  Jus- 
tice." The  ornamentation,  the  arches,  and  the  general 
finish  are  surprisingly  beautiful  and  airy,  like  woven  hice 
petrified  in  marble.  In  one  of  the  domes  of  the  recesses 
in  the  south  wall  are  some  very  curious  paintings  of  long- 


384  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

bearded  Moors.  Inasmuch  as  portrait  painters  were  at  a 
discount  among  Mohammedans,  the  critics  are  sorely 
divided  as  to  wlio  was  the  author.  An  evidence  of  the  hix- 
urious  hfe  led  by  the  Moors  is  the  Queen's  Boudoir, 
so  called,  a  room  about  nine  feet  square,  in  one  corner  of 
wliich  is  a  marble  slab  perforated  with  sixteen  holes  to 
admit  perfumes.  But  these  are  among  some  of  many 
wonderful  things  which  we  can  only  remember  as  the 
incidents  of  a  ])eautiful  dream. 

The  cultivation  of  the  vega  and  of  the  terraced  slopes 
of  the  ridge  is  conducted  mainly  tlirough  irrigation.  The 
Moors  yjroved  themselves  to  he  skilltul  engineers.  At 
jtresent,  the  use  of  the  water  which  is  brought  from  the 
Darro  is  strictly  regulated  by  the  bell  in  the  Torre  del 
Vega,  which  is  struck  once  in  live  minutes  every  night 
from  9  to  4.  One  farmer  can  use  it  just  so  long  and  then 
shuts  his  sluiceway  for  the  next.  We  visited  the  old  man 
who  keeps  the  tower.  For  a  thousand  years  or  so,  who- 
ever struck  the  bell  had  either  to  ascend  the  stairway 
every  live  minutes  or  remain  tliere  all  night.  Within  a 
year  some  genius  has  conceived  the  idea  of  cutting  holes 
through  the  ceiling  and  attaching  a  rope  to  the  striker  so 
the  old  man  can  do  his  duty  as  he  lies  in  bed.  Verily, 
the  world  moves  I  Tlie  second  of  Januar}',  whicli  is  the 
day  when  (Tranada  was  taken  by  the  Catholic  kings,  is  a 
festival,  and  the  young  girls  in  the  vicinity  re})aii'  to  the 
l)ell  tower  between  the  hours  of  o  and  4  v.  M.,  and  each 
strikes  the  bell  once.  Tliis  is  believed  to  insure  them  a 
husband. 

There  are  a  thousand  things  one  must  leave  unsaid,  l>ut 
a  word  must  l)e  given  to  the  })alace  and  gardens  of  the 
(4eneralife.  The  garden  walks  are  lined  with  oleanders, 
cy})ress  trees,  and  myrtle  hedges.  On  one  of  these  ter- 
races is  wliat  is  called  the  '•  Court  of  Cypresses;"  one  of 
the  trees,  called  "La  Sultana,"'  is  said  to  have  l)een  two 


SPANISH    NOTES.  385 

centuries  old  in  the  time  of  Boa])dil.  The  grapevines 
have  stems  as  thick  as  a  tree,  and  date  hack  to  the  Moors. 
From  tlie  princiital  liall  here  we  passed  tlirough  a  little 
gate  \\\)  to  the  iSilla  del  Moro,  a  liill  on  which  are  some 
vestiges  of  another  palace  which  Moorish  writers  assert 
to  have  been  far  s(4)erior  to  the  Alhambra.  From  this 
l)oint  is  a  view  down  the  valley  of  the  Darro,  where  are 
the  gypsy  quarters,  a  wild  and  here  uiitamahle  race,  who 
burrow  in  the  hillsides  like  rabbits.  It  ought  perhaps  to 
be  named  that  we  saw  at  the  Generalife,  which  is  in  pos- 
session of  a  descendant  of  the  uncle  of  BoalKlil,  the 
sword  which  failed  to  secure  that  unluck}'-  ruler  in  his 
seat. 

After  the  Alhambra  the  city  seems  comnioii})lace,  al- 
though in  the  Church  of  the  Kings  are  some  beautiful 
tombs  with  marble  ethgies,  true  likenesses  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella  and  other  great  notabilities  of  Spain.  It  was  a 
curious  coincidence  that  the  new  world  was  discovered 
and  Granada  surrendered  in  the  same  year.  We  took  a 
drive  of  some  twenty  miles  through  the  environs,  and 
were  enchanted  with  the  scenery,  beauty,  and  fertility  of 
the  country ;  and  everywhere  we  were  impressed  with  tlie 
prodigal  bounty  of  Nature  and  the  everlasting  laziness  of 
man.  Such  exhilaration  in  the  air,  it  was  a  joy  to 
breathe,  and  we  climbed,  without  effort,  cliffs  and  ter- 
races which  we  should  not  think  of  attempting  at  home. 
The  old  Afoorisli  mills  with  pictures(pie  water-wheels,  the 
system  of  irrigation,  the  little  coiuitry  inns  where  simple, 
cooling  (h'inks  could  l)e  liad,  the  groves,  the  hedges,  the 
flower  gardens,  all  things  conspired  to  make  us  regret 
leaving  Andalusia  more  than  any  other  })lace  Ave  visited. 

But  time,  though  of  so  little  account  to  these  children 
of  the  sun,  had  yet  some  value  to  us,  and  so  we  took  the 
train  for  Malaga,  the  nearest  port  on  the  ^rediterranean. 
All  the  way  it  skirted  the  Sierras,  and  we  reached  the 


386  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

streets  of  hot,  dirty,  dusty  Malaga  after  an  interesting 
ride.  The  United  States  consul  called  on  us  ver}-  soon, 
and  with  his  amiahle  wife  paid  us  many  attentions.  In 
tlie  evening  we  were  invited  to  his  house  near  hy,  and 
needed  no  wraps  and  hut  the  thinnest  of  our  apparel  on 
the  26th  of  January.  Kext  day  we  took  them  to  ride 
with  us,  and  our  entire  route  lay  through  the  hed  of  a 
waterless  river,  which  in  the  time  of  rains  would  be  a 
swollen  torrent.  There  are  some  fine  gardens,  and  the 
Alameda  on  the  beach  is  a  much  frequented  resort. 
•Grapes  were  drying  about  on  the  ground  in  the  raisin 
■country;  and  our  consul  sought  to  prove  to  us  the  excel- 
lence of  the  wine  here  produced,  and  presented  us  with  a 
bottle  to  take  along,  which  lie  assured  us  was  tifty  years 
■old.  However  that  might  have  been,  it  was  the  means  of 
grave  complications  at  the  custom  house  at  Gibraltar, 
where,  contrary  to  some  other  people,  they  are  "  agin  the 
Jaw"  but  in  favor  of  its  enforcement. 


CHAPTER    XXXVII 


GIBRALTAR    AND    TANGIER. 


We  took  steamer  for  Gibraltar,  where  we  arri\'ed  one 
morning  and  waked  u]>  to  lind  ourselves  facing  an  im- 
mense rock  which,  lion-like,  rises  out  of  the  water  and 
looks  toward  the  dark  continent.  It  was  with  immeasur- 
able content,  after  the  slipshod  ways  of  the  people  we  had 
left,  to  come  upon  order,  cleanliness,  and  a  straightforward 
style  of  doing.  We  could  even  pardon  red  tape  and 
overmuch  militar}-  precision.  At  the  custom  house,  the 
vigilant  officer  fell  upon  our  bottle  of  iifty-y ear-old  Mal- 
aga, which  was  carried  in  a  hand  basket  with  other  indis- 
pensable articles.  Viewing  it  with  severe  aspect,  he 
coolly  took  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  her  Majesty. 
It  was  represented  to  him  that  it  was  a  present  from  our 
consul,  that  we  were  American  travelers  with  no  feloni- 
ous purposes  of  traffic ;  but  it  was  of  no  use,  it  could 
not  be  taken  on  shore,  so  we  left  it  and  proceeded  onward; 
but,  mirahUe  dicii/.,  when  we  returned  there  it  was  intact, 
and  was  formally  delivered  into  our  charge. 

Gibraltar  recalls  to  mind  the  old  negro  melody,  "  such 
a  gittin'  up  stairs."  The  houses  are  built  into  the  sides 
of  tlie  clifi"  l)y  the  narrow  pass,  for  it  is  hardly  more,  in  a 
most  curious  way.  In  that  of  the  American  consul,  for 
instance,  as  we  entered  from  the  street,  the  first  floor  was 
devoted  to  sundry  domestic  jiurposes,  up  another  flight  to 
the  reci'ption  room,  and  up  another  to  the  dining  room, 
all  built  into  the  rock.  In  this  nest  he  had  ])een  jterched 
for  twenty-five  years  or  more,  and  l)rought  up  a  family  of 
daughters  who  were  sent  to  France  to  l»e  educated,  all  of 


388  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

whom  thought  Gibraltar  a  good  place  to  be  in.  One  Sun- 
da}^  morning  we  were  awakened  by  tlie  sound  of  military 
music,  and  looking  out  of  our  windows  saw  a  company  of 
redcoats,  as  stiff,  clean,  and  orderly  as  drill  could  make 
them,  with  prayer-books  in  hand,  on  the  way  to  church. 
This  they  have  to  do  in  relays,  as  the  churches  are  not 
laro-e  enouo-h  to  hold  all  the  garrison  at  once.  When  Ave 
turned  out  ourselves  for  the  same  purpose,  we  \vent  up 
steps  cut  in  the  rock;  and  of  course  the  only  mode  of 
riding  is  upon  donkeys.  They  have  some  little  beasts 
of  that  ilk  with  cradle  saddles  adapted  to  the  most  deli- 
cate nerves. 

The  marvel  of  Gibraltar  is  its  fortiiieations,  and  they 
were  mounting  a  new  and  most  formidable  gun  while  we 
were  there,  to  keep  abreast  with  modern  progress.  Up 
above  all  the  stairways  a  colony  of  monkeys  exist  which 
have  been  there  no  one  knows  how  long,  and  their  like  is 
found  only  in  Africa ;  hence  some  say  the  land  once  ex- 
tended across  the  strait.  They  are  obliged  to  come  down 
to  get  a  drink,  and  it  is  lucky  that  they  want  nothing  but 
water.  It  is  anmsing  to  see  them  in  their  sports,  and  they 
are  very  carefully  protected  in  their  rights,  an  impor- 
tant matter,  as  means  of  entertainment  cannot  be  too 
plentiful  on  that  stronghold.  Some  of  the  chambers  cut 
in  the  rock  are  quite  large,  and  in  one  called  King 
George's  they  sometimes  have  balls.  The  view  from  the 
highest  point  is  very  extensive,  including  the  shores  of 
two  continents. 

We  took  the  steamer  which  plies  between  Gibraltar  and 
Tangier  on  the  29th ;  passing  in  sight  of  Point  Trafalgar, 
the  scene  of  Xelson's  famous  fight,  we  soon  reach  a  new 
and  strange  land  where  the  sky  and  sea  and  distant  moun- 
tain chain  of  (^ebel  Muza  seem  fitting  environments  to 
the  walled  city  of  the  pirates,  and  the  swarming  boat-loads 
of  bronzed  and  black  yelling  and  shrieking  men  of  the 


AFRICAN    DAYS.  389 

East.  The  landing  is  a  feat  not  to  be  lightly  regarded, 
and  it  only  seems  a  question  whether  we  are  to  be  drowned 
at  once  in  the  boiling,  surging  waves,  or  violently  rescued 
at  the  hands  of  the  villainous  looking  crowd  around. 
But  at  last  \ye  land.  It  is  a  time  of  unusual  stir  and  tu- 
mult, in  fact  the  fete,  feast,  or  fast  of  the  circumcision, 
so  the  neighboring  tribes,  and  even  those  as  far  distant  as 
Fez,  had  come  with  children  in  droves.  Everywhere  the 
streets  Avere  full,  every  available  open  space  covered  with 
the  wild-looking  caravans  of  the  desert,  scores  of  camels, 
donkeys  without  number,  mounted  horsemen  in  groups, 
in  squads,  in  companies,  Moorish  cavaliers  superbly 
mounted  charging  like  the  wind  in  the  most  unexpected  di- 
rections, firing  recklessly  into  or  above  the  crowd  as  might 
happen ;  narrow  and  indescribably  dirty  streets,  bordered 
by  little  bazaars,  right  out  of  the  Arabian  niglits,  where 
were  spices,  soaps,  oils,  sweetmeats,  silver  work,  cobblers 
leisurely  stitching,  in  the  market-place  women  from  the 
interior  wearing  coarse  straw  hats  with  enormous  brims, 
— in  short,  a  confused  medley  of  the  strangest  and  most 
fantastic  things  and  creatures  we  had  ever  imagined;  and 
over  all  the  hot  and  burning  sky  of  Morocco. 

But  even  here  where  a  half  l)arbarism  was  still  rife,  the 
advancing  wave  of  civilization  was  pushing  its  way  on  the 
shore.  A  comfortable  French  hotel  sheltered  us  from 
the  hot  sun  and  the  hideous  din,  a  good  guide  was  readily 
engaged  to  show  us  the  true  inwardness  of  things,  and 
we  \\'ere  })repared  to  do  Tangier.  We  had  along  with 
us  an  amiable  young  English  curate,  who  was  not  only 
astonished  but  actually  afraid  of  the  fierce  looking  sheiks 
in  their  mad  sorties,  and  who  involuntarily,  no  doubt, 
took  shelter  on  the  side  of  us  which  promised  the  greatest 
inmiunity  from  danger.  Everywhere  about  the  streets 
were  what  would  correspond  to  the  side  shows  of  our 
fairs, —  slave  dances,  where  the  lazy  old  tyrant  who  ex- 


390  MRS.    SMYTH'S   JOURNAL. 

hibited  them  for  sale  sat  on  the  ground  in  their  midst  and 
forced  them  to  dance  till  they  dropped  from  sheer  exhaus- 
tion ;  then  the  snake  charmers  displayed  their  writhing, 
horrible  pets;  and  anon  comes  riding  down  the  midst  on  a 
line  donkey,  with  numerous  attendants  clad  in  white,  with 
a  denser  howling  crowd  about  him,  if  possible,  than  we 
had  seen  before.  El  Sherif,  or  the  religious  ruler,  a  man 
of  fine  physique  and  commanding  presence,  to  get  a  fair 
sight  of  whom  our  curate  actually  pressed  forward  into 
the  throng  at  imminent  risk  at  least  of  his  corns.  El 
Sherif  was  accompanied  by  a  beautiful  boy.  He  was  said 
to  be  a  much-married  man,  his  harem  counting  up  to 
thousands.  A  story  is  told  of  an  English  woman  employed 
as  a  teacher  in  Tangier  who  became  infatuated  with  this 
descendant  of  the  prophet  and  consented  to  become,  as 
she  made  him  promise,  his  last,  but  the  fickle  Moor,  after 
his  usual  length  of  time,  again  and  again  broke  his 
promise,  leaving  the  foolish  woman  broken-hearted  and 
yet  shut  in  a  prison  from  which  there  is  no  escape. 

We  were  granted  an  audience  of  the  pasha  or  governor 
of  the  place.  On  first  arriving  his  highness  had  not  fin- 
ished his  .S7V.y/^^,  but  soon  admitted  us.  He  was  tall,  rather 
thin,  but  of  good  appearance,  seated  on  a  dais  surrounded 
by  pa]»ers  on  which  he  seemed  to  have  been  at  work. 
Xear  by  on  the  stone  fioor  was  the  rug  on  winch  he  re- 
[)0sed  from  the  noontide  sun  and  the  cares  of  state.  We 
also  visited  the  court  in  session.  The  judge  sat  cross- 
legged  on  the  pavement  surrounded  by  the  mufti  or  men 
learned  in  the  law,  engaged  in  hearing  a  case.  Our  guide 
on  this  occasion  was  a  .Jew  assistant  to  the  consul;  a|)par- 
ently  the  court  was  adjourned  that  we  might  be  intro- 
duced to  his  honor.  Xot  even  Othello  himself  could  have 
excelled  this  judge  in  stately  mien  or  elegant  demeanor; 
involuntarily  I  exclaimed,  "Oh,  what  a  handsome  man  ! "' 
Court   was  adjourned,  and  the  judge,  oj)ening   his  snuft 


AFRICAN    DAYS.  391 

box,  skillfully  deposited  a  pinch  on  the  back  of  his  dexter 
thumb  and  offered  it  to  our  consideration.  We  lightly 
snifled,  and  in  view  of  the  villainous  odors  with  which 
Tangier  abounds,  could  but  esteem  it  a  most  thoughtful 
attention. 

From  court  to  prison  is  a  natural  step,  and  to  prison 
we  Aveiit.  Evidently  reform  associations  have  not  pene- 
trated here.  It  was  a  kind  of  cave  or  grotto,  without 
light  or  ventilatio'i  save  what  entered  at  the  grated  door; 
and  the  unhappy  wretches  crowded  forward,  offering  for 
sale  rude  baskets  which  constitutes  their  chief  support, 
for  unless  they  have  friends  they  may  starve  there,  or  if 
sick,  die  without  care.  J^ot  far  from  this  was  a  place  of 
temporary  conhnement  previous  to  trial,  where  they  are 
chained  to  a  post  or  stone.  There  are  no  tlioatres  or 
operas  in  Tangier,  and  the  inmates  of  the  harem  have 
plenty  of  time  for  gossip  if  so  disposed,  though  a  recent 
writer  has  given  us  a  new  idea  of  the  employments  in  the 
harem,  from  which  it  ajtpears  that  among  the  lower  ranks 
at  least  their  lives  are  not  altogether  idle.  They  were 
sifting  corn  meal,  which  lay  in  great  golden  heajts  on 
sheets,  u[»on  the  iioor. 

Oui'  guide  one  evening  took  us  to  a  concert.  The  good 
eiirate,  whose  immaculate  necktie  and  stove})i[)e  hat  bore 
witness  to  his  devotion  lo  })rinciple,  was  sorely  tried. 
"  What  do  you  think,"'  asked  he,  "  my  jicople  would  say 
to  see  me  in  such  a  place  't  "  "  Well,"  said  F,,  ''  if  you 
wish  to  know  anything  of  the  customs  ami  manners  of" 
the  peo])le  you  liave  to  use  your  eyes."'  t^o  he  dul)iously 
followed  through  the  winding  lanes  and  alleys  inditfer- 
ently  lighted  l)y  the  lantern  of  the  guide,  until  we  reached 
an  miderground  saloon  of  the  rudest  stone  architecture. 
Al)out  one  side  of  the  room  wei-e  seated  the  i>erformers 
cross-legged  on  mats.  The  orchestral  accompaniment 
was  not  on  the  whole  Wagnerian,  —  a  two-stringed  fiddle 


392  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

and  the  tom-tom,  a  drum  shaped  like  an  hour  glass  with 
a  leather  covering  stretched  across  the  head.  We  after- 
wards l:)0ught  one  of  the  stringed  instruments  of  an  ama- 
teur performer  on  the  street.  If  the  cremona  or  the 
double  bass  is  evolved  from  this  primitive  fiddle,  it  vn\\ 
go  far  to  establish  the  tlieory  of  Darwin.  On  these  the 
concert  performers  snapped  and  strummed  and  pounded, 
keeping  time  to  a  song  of  a  thousand  and  one  verses, 
which  was  of  the  most  heart-rending  description.  "We 
were,  however,  enabled  to  create  a  little  diversion  by  beat- 
ing vigorously  in  turn  a  stray  tom-tom,  and  even  the 
curate,  witli  the  desperation  which  the  good  sometimes 
exhibit  when  led  into  devious  ways,  pounded  the  tom-tom 
as  though  it  had  been  a  dissenter.  Our  performers,  how- 
ever, were  not  lacking  in  consideration  for  our  exhausted 
nerves,  for  tliey  served  tea  and  coffee  in  tiny  cups,  and  so 
sent  us  home  through  the  slippery  streets  in  good  spirits. 
Our  consul  lived  out  of  town  on  Mount  Washington, 
and,  jirobably  not  often  meeting  people  from  the  country 
he  re])resented,  laid  himself  out,  so  to  speak,  that  he 
might  do  honor  to  our  humble  selves:  in  fact,  as  he  after- 
ward wrote  to  his  coiifn'rc  in  Gibraltar,  lie  provided  a 
"  magnificent  entertainment  ''  ;  but  three  days  in  Tangier 
were  all  we  could  allow,  and  so  unfortunately,  as  it  hap- 
pened, we  gave  up  a  good  dinner  for  a  rough  storm  at  sea. 
As  is  not  infre<iuently  the  case,  when  we  had  made  u})  our 
minds  to  go,  wc  were  not  f[uite  ready.  Having  indulged 
in  many  small  purchases  of  the  goods  and  wares  of  the 
country,  it  became  necessary  to  have  a  full  list  of  the 
same  made  out  befoi-e  we  started.  Our  consul  had  influ- 
ence to  delay  L'Africainc,  the  little  French  steamer, 
but  he  could  not  command  the  violent  rain  or  the  coming 
storm,  which  delay  made  nK)re  dangerous.  At  last  we 
hurried  on  board.  Tlie  rain  came  down  in  torrents,  and 
the   \\'a\'es   ran    hiijh  and    furious.       Pi'esentlv   the  wind 


AFRICAN    DAYS.  393 

arose  almost  to  a  cyclone,  we  were  blown  far  out  of  our 
course,  and  with  all  came  a  dense,  stifling  fog.  The  cap- 
tain did  not  know  where  we  were,  the  sailors  seemed  inert 
and  sulky.  It  appeared  that  for  a  little  time  we  were  in 
real  danger;  happily  the  cloud  passed,  the  sun  came  out, 
and  though  we  were  at  some  distance  on  the  Mediterra- 
nean, yet  after  six  or  seven  hours  we  again  reached  Gih- 
raltar.  It  was  the  roughest  hit  we  had  yet  encountered. 
After  this  we  remained  several  days  waiting  for  the  steam- 
ship which  was  to  take  us  to  Alexandria.  It  developed 
nothing  new  on  the  rock,  except  that  the  consul  at  Tan- 
gier wrote  to  his  friend  here  what  [)rodigious  prepara- 
tion he  had  made  to  feast  us  at  Mount  Washington ;  but 
could  we  have  swallowed  it  before  starting  the  sea  would 
surelv  have  gotten  it  all. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 

TO    THE    LAND    OF    THE    PHARAOHS. 

On  the  5th  of  February  we  set  out  along  the  Algerian 
coast  en  route  for  Alexandria.  The  weather  was  pleasant, 
agreeably  warm,  the  sea  tranquil,  the  [lorpoises  disported 
themselves  around  us,  and  at  night  the  wonderful  phos- 
phorescent light  played  on  the  waves  in  our  trail.  We 
were  eight  days  on  the  way,  stopping  one  day  (Friday) 
from  sunrise  to  night  at  Malta.  The  iirst  impression  of 
the  harbor  and  Valetta,  the  capital,  is  like  that  of  Genoa, 
houses  with  balconies  in  Moorish  and  Italian  style,  and 
streets  narrow.  There  is  room,  however,  for  swarms  of 
idle  natives  lying  around  in  the  sun.  The  harboi-  was  full 
of  P]nglish  ships,  transports  with  troops  on  board,  and 
other  crafts,  making  it  a  gay  and  lively  scene.  We  visited 
the  governor's  palace,  formerly  that  of  the  grand  master, 
where  are  the  armor  and  tapestrv  — said  to  be  the  finest  in 
the  world  —  of  the  knights  who  reigned  liere  from  1510 
to  1798;  also  the  church  of  St.  John,  in  whose  chapel  are 
the  inonurnents  of  the  dead  crusaders.  There  are  1,200 
Roman  }>riests  iu  tins  little  isle,  which  is  indeed  densely 
populated.  The  women  wvav  a  vei-y  ugly  head-dress  and 
veil  of  l)lack  in  which  they  are  doing  penance,  it  is  said, 
for  100  years,  although  we  do  not  recall  the  reason  for  which 
it  was  imposed.  Whatever  may  be  the  historic  interest 
connected  with  these  relics  of  the  niedi;eval  ages,  it  is  sur- 
passed immeasuraljly  by  St.  Paul's  bay,  scene  of  the  ship- 
wreck of  tlie  Apostle  to  the  Gentiles,  where  the  confor- 
mation of  the  shores  seem  to  bear  witness  to  the  truth  of 
the  story  in  Acts.     There  were  three  days  more  oi' voyag- 


ALEXANDRIA.  395 

ing  for  us  before  reaching  Alexandria,  and  [tart  of  the 
time  the  weather  was  rough.  We  had  on  ])oard  a  cat 
which  served  well  as  a  barometer.  IFe  was  a  great  pet 
among  the  passengers,  ex])ecting  some  tid-bit  from  eacli 
in  turn  at  meals.  In  calm  weather  he  was  a  perfect 
model  of  gentle  manners  and  liigh  breeding,  but  when  a 
storm  was  brewing  he  seemed  to  have  had  direct  advices 
from  Old  Prob.,  which  transformed  him  into  a  perfect 
spitfire,  rushing  about  the  ship,  making  warlike  demon- 
strations from  unexpected  ([uarters,  knocking  over  and 
smashing  such  fragile  furniture  as  came  in  his  way.  Some 
English  hulies  who  had  encountered  violent  winds  off  the 
Bay  of  Biscay  reported  the  conduct  of  the  cat  as  tempestu- 
ous in  the  extreme.  The  sailors  had  something  like  a 
superstitious  regard  for  the  pro}»hetic  beast.  Meantime 
the  eight  days'  voyage  re([uired  some  effort  to  make  it 
lively.  Some  of  the  ladies  were  weighed  to  keep  them 
light-hearted,  the  method  being  to  catch  hold  of  a  big 
steelyard  hook  used  for  freight  and  curl  u])  one's  feet 
from  deck.     My  note-book  puts  me  down  at  10  stone  10. 

On  Sunday,  February  11,  we  readied  Alexandria  at 
evening,  but,  on  account  of  the  rough  sea  and  the  sunken 
ships  in  the  channel,  did  not  go  in  until  Monday. 

Since  we  last  saw  Alexandria  in  1S78  there  had  been 
great  change;  buildings  in  ruins,  forts  battered  down,  ex- 
ploded shells  lying  about,- — in  short  hardly  anything  but 
bore  marks  of  the  contest,  exce})t  the  famous  light-house 
at  the  entrance.  Tiie  natives  were  strictly  ]»rohibited 
from  entering  or  lounging  al)Out  the  forts,  and  an  English 
officer  in  charge  was  having  no  end  of  trouble  to  enforce 
his  orders.  In  addition  to  the  swarming  }K)i)ulation  ^^■as 
a  crowd  of  pilgrims  returning  from  Mecca,  dirty,  foot- 
sore, hungry,  adding  to  the  woe-begone  look  of  the  place. 
We  spent  only  one  day  there,  visiting  the  }ialace  and  harem 
of  the  khedive,  the  villa  occupied  by  Sir  Garnet  Woles- 


396  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

ley,  Pompey's  pillar,  and  a  few  other  points  of  interest. 
We  missed  the  obelisk  which  had  taken  flight  to  I^ew 
York,  and  saw  its  solitary  mate.  Our  route  by  rail  to 
Cairo  was  through  a  very  marvel  of  fertility.  No  wonder 
the  Xile  has  been  worshiped,  since  it  brings  the  means  of 
life  to  so  many. 

We  had  some  dreamy  speculations  as  to  what  the 
weather  might  be  at  home  while  riding  through  these 
luxuriant  fields  of  wheat  and  clover  two  feet  hio-h  and  of 
the  most  vivid  green  imaginable.  Along  the  way  were 
native  mud  villages,  and  each  one,  no  matter  how  small, 
with  its  mosque.  We  reached  Cairo  about  4  p.  m.  and 
found  that  the  steamer  had  left  the  morning  before,  so 
after  spending  a  day  in  Cairo  we  took  the  cars  for 
Assyout,  where  we  expected  to  overtake  the  steamer, 
and  deferred  further  explorations  until  our  return.  Oc- 
casionally we  had  seen  on  our  way  the  sugar-houses  built 
by  the  khedive  and  owned  by  the  government.  Egypt  is 
a  great  cane-growing  country  and  can  produce  sugar  at 
very  little  cost.  These  mills  are  built  of  brick  and  stone, 
and  seem  more  like  progress  than  anything  we  had  seen. 
As  we  passed  the  bridge  on  our  way  out  to  Boulac,  we 
encountered  hundreds  of  camels  and  donkeys  laden  with 
all  manner  of  produce,  every  article  of  which  has  to  pay 
a  tax  at  the  gates  ;  and  then  it  was  some  kind  of  a  fete  day, 
which  increased  the  crowd  and  the  confusion.  February 
16  we  reached  our  boat  at  Assyout,  the  capital  of  middle 
Egypt.  The  old  Xile  had  a  very  lively  look,  covered  with 
boats,  some  laden  with  water  jars,  and  all  moved  by  the 
huge  red  lateen  sail  so  common  and  so  picturesque  here 
and  in  Turkey.  One  morning  we  saw  drawn  up  by  the 
side  of  our  steamer  another  hoisting  the  American  flag, 
a  joyous  sight  to  our  eyes.  It  was  the  missionary  steamer 
belonging  to  the  American  Presbyterian  Board,  ^\•hicll 
cruises  up  and  down  the  Xile,  teaching  or  preaching  as  the 
need  mav  be. 


UP   THE    NILE.  397 

At  this  point  we  all  Hot  oft' on  donkeys  to  visit  the  rock 
tombs,  as  also  the  caves  of  the  niunimied  wolves,  creatures 
which  once  received  divine  honors  in  this  region.  The 
rock  tombs  are  a  series  of  vast  catacombs  cut  in  the  hills 
above  the  city,  whose  walls  are  covered  with  inscriptions. 
Xorth  and  south  are  two  niagiuticent  plains  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  covered  with  excpusite  verdure,  palm  groves, 
fields,  gardens,  and  villages.  Assyout,  with  its  numerous 
minarets  and  its  busy  population,  presents  a  very  lively 
scene.  It  is  at  the  terminus  of  the  railway  and  the  mtre- 
pot  of  vast  quantities  of  merchandise  from  the  Libyan 
desert  and  Darfoor.  It  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest 
towns  on  the  Xile.  These  villages,  while  beautiful  in  the 
distance,  are  most  disheartenino;  and  sad  on  a  near  view 
having  mere  apologies  for  houses  done  in  baked  mud. 

As  our  party  went  on  its  way,  some  slight  accident  hap- 
pened to  my  saddle.  As  the  driver  was  repairing  damages 
a  young  man  rode  up  and  accosted  me  in  broken  English. 
He  was  a  teacher  in  the  mission  school  at  Assyout.  On 
our  return  I  visited  his  school.  They  manufacture  here  a 
very  creditable  style  of  pottery,  and  one  often  meets 
women  balancino;  hus-e  water  jars  on  their  heads,  holdins: 
I  dare  not  say  how  many  gallons.  During  most  of  the 
day  it  was  very  hot,  and  we  were  careful  to  remain  in-doors. 

Our  next  stopping-] )lace  was  at  Girjeh,  in  English 
St.  George,  the  patron  saint  of  the  Kopts,  who  have  here  a 
tine  church.  Near  this  })lace  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
Abydos.  The  country  around  is  surpassingly  fertile,  but 
full  of  miserably  dirty  villages,  streets  defiled  with  offal 
and  growing  rubbish  heaps.  One  can  see  how  it  is  that 
in  some  thousands  of  years  this  process  has  covered  even 
the  vast  monuments  of  P]gypt.  The  fields  are  intersected 
with  thousands  of  rivulets,  and  water-wheels  with  buckets 
are  in  constant  use  by  the  larger  canals.  It  is  a  ride  by 
donkev  of  about  two  hours  to  the  desert  line  and  the  site 


398  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

of  "  This."  The  ancient  inscriptions  affirm  that  Menes, 
the  founder  of  the  dynasty,  was  born  here.  The  interior 
of  the  temple  is  very  perfect,  but  the  customary  ap- 
proaches, pylons,  sphinxes,  etc.,  are  gone.  Seven  chapels 
side  by  side,  each  devoted  to  the  worship  of  a  single  god, 
precede  the  entrance  to  the  halls  of  colonnades.  The  inscrip- 
tions are  exquisitely  perfect  and  fresh  in  color.  In  one  of 
the  chapels  was  found  the  most  important  tablet  yet  dis- 
covered, containing  the  names  of  seventy-six  kings,  from 
Menes  to  Seti.  From  the  modern  village  here  there  was 
a  rush  of  naked  boys  with  slings  for  sale,  and  tiiey  ex- 
hibited great  dexterity  in  the  use  of  this  primitive  weapon, 
killinor  birds  on  the  wing  and  attesting;  the  excellence  of 
their  weapons  to  induce  us  to  purchase. 

Our  next  port  was  Keneh,  once  a  town  of  considerable 
importance  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Nile,  being  connected 
with  the  port  of  Kosseir  on  the  Red  sea  by  a  caravan 
route.  It  is  famous  for  its  excellent  dates  and  for  the 
superior  quality  of  the  pottery  manufactured  here.  It 
lies  about  two  miles  back  from  the  landing.  Denderah, 
on  the  opposite  side,  is  reached  by  a  ferry  and  contains  a 
temple  which,  with  one  exception,  is  considered  the  most 
perfect  specimen  yet  unearthed.  The  paintings  and  in- 
scriptions on  its  walls  tell  the  manner  of  the  temple  ser- 
vice, of  its  plan  of  building  and  dedication.  Here  may 
be  seen  the  portrait  of  Cleopatra.  The  building  is  com- 
jiaratively  modern,  being  about  2,000  years  old.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  huge  pile  of  de/ms,  which  at  a  little  dis- 
tance conceals  the  entrance  from  view.  From  Keneh  we 
s}>ed  on  to  Luxor,  where  upon  our  arrival  the  American 
Hag  was  run  up  at  the  consulate  and  tliere  was  a  magnifi- 
cent salute  of  fire-arms  (old  muskets)  which  brought  us 
into  port  with  distinguished  honors.  We  stopped  here 
four  days,  little  tinie  to  be  sure  in  which  to  explore  this 
bewildering   labyrinth   of  ruins,  but    all   we  could    now 


UP   THE    NILE.  399 

spare.  And  we  were  busy  enough.  The  consul,  who 
was  no  American,  but  a  Moliammedan  of  the  strictest  sort, 
was  yet  not  above  deahng  with  heretics  and  infidels  in 
such  way  as  to  increase  his  gains.  Consequently  his  son 
attended  the  inission  school,  as  the  education  he  got  there 
opened  to  him  places  of  profit.  He  also  owned  the  piece 
of  ground  on  which  the  mission  buildings  stood,  and  the 
teacher  was  very  anxious  to  secure  additional  facilities. 
While  in  conversation  with  us  he  manifested  the  utmost 
willingness  to  do  anything  the  teacher  wished,  for  he  had 
asked  F.  to  intercede  with  the  consul-general  at  Cairo 
and  get  his  son  appointed  assistant,  which  would  free  him 
from  the  conscription.  While  F.  was  considering  this 
proposition  the  teacher,  Mr.  Awada  Abot  Eshshaheed, 
speaking  aside  to  me  in  a  low  tone  in  English,  said:  "Do 
not  believe  him ;  he  is  our  enemy,  opposing  our  work  in 
every  way  he  dares."  As  soon  as  I  could,  this  state  of 
the  case  was  communicated  to  F.,  who  thereupon  said, 
assuming  a  high  tone,  "  Of  course,  if  I  do  this,  I  shall  ex- 
pect you  to  give  all  possible  aid  to  the  school  and  let  them 
have  what  land  they  need  at  a  fidr  price."  lie  promised. 
At  Cairo  the  case  was  fully  stated  to  the  consul-general, 
but  we  liave  not  heard  if  it  resulted  in  any  good.  At  one 
time  when  a  general  u[»risiiig  of  the  Mohammedans  was 
threatened,  the  fiery  old  bigot  who  represented  the  Eng- 
lish Government  took  a  club  and  actually  beat  the  teacher, 
and  our  own  consular  agent  went  so  far  as  to  threaten  his 
life  if  he  did  not  abandon  tlie  school.  Every  thoughtful 
observei"  must  give  great  credit  to  the  American  Presby- 
terian Board  of  Missions  for  the  excellent  work  they  are 
doing  along  the  Xile.  It  is  absolutely  the  only  light  in 
the  darkness  of  this  part  of  Kgypt. 

The  Ghawazee,  or  dancing  girls,  constitute  the  chief 
stock  amusement  of  the  rich.  At  Cairo,  at  Esneh,  at 
Luxor,  at  every  place,  in  fact,  of  importance,  they  will  per- 


400  MRS.    SMYTirS   JOURNAL. 

form  for  pay.  Our  consul  at  Luxor  hearing  that  there  were 
Americans  on  the  steamer,  straightway  invited  them  to  an 
entertainment  at  his  house.  The  wliole  party  were  bid- 
den, and  thougli  our  good  curate  j^melt  danger  from  afar, 
lie  went  with  us.  The  accompaniments  were  all  first-class, 
pipes,  cotfee,  luxurious  divans,  Persian  carpets,  spacious 
saloon,  and  all  the  rest  of  it.  As  to  the  girls,  I  suppose  it 
was  called  dancing;  it  was  not  devoid  of  a  certain  grace 
and  beauty,  and  consisted  mainly  of  rhythmic  movements 
of  the  body  keeping  time  to  the  music,  with  now  and 
then  an  extra  feat  thrown  in,  as  when  one  rolled  across 
the  floor  with  a  bottle  containing  a  lighted  candle  on  her 
head.  We  could  have  stood  this  with  equanimity,  but 
when,  as  a  matter  of  etiquette,  we  were  invited  to  the 
English  and  the  French  consuls',  and  there  saw  the  very 
same  girls  and  in  the  same  performance,  we  began  to  feel 
like  the  boy  with  a  season  ticket  to  the  circus  I 

At  the  gateway  of  Luxor  stand  tAvo  colossal  statues  of 
Rameses  II  and  his  queen,  cut  in  red  granite.  We  look 
down  upon  them  from  the  pylon  and  then  out  upon  the 
Theban  plain  thirteen  miles  in  extent,  and  girt  by  the 
Libyan  hills.  Five  principal  groups  of  ruins  may  be  seen. 
AVestward  like  sentinels  stand  the  twin  colossi  of  Memnon, 
nearer  the  portico  of  the  temples  of  the  Memnonium  and 
Medinet  Ilaboo,  while  in  the  background  rise  the  honey- 
combed limestone  hills  containing  the  tombs  of  the  kings 
and  fringing  the  vast  necropolis.  At  our  feet  swarms  the 
miscellaneous  collection  of  cats,  dogs,  flies,  naked  children, 
scantily  clothed  men,  and  women  in  a  single  cotton  gar- 
ment and  a  veiled  face,  that  go  to  make  up  the  modern 
town.  A  little  beyond,  covering  an  area  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  square  feet,  rise  rows  of  columns,  "  palm  groves 
l)lossoming  in  stone,"  carved  with  lotus  buds,  sharp  in 
outline  as  though  cut  but  yesterday,  a  marvel  to  those 
who  know  how  quickly  tlie  fitful  climate  of  Xew  England 


UP    THE    NILE.  401 

woars  marble  unci  granite.  Between  this  and  Karnak  for 
t\vt»  rniK'S  and  more  ran  the  royal  road  bordered  with 
Hphinxes,  of  which  here  and  there  one  remains.  Our 
most  memorable  and  charming  view  was  that  of  Karnak 
bv  ijioonlight;  here  the  })ropyloii  in  its  vast  pro])ortions 
is  well  preserved;  there  we  see  a  solitary  obelisk,  a  great 
screen  or  wall,  and  beyond  a  jiillared  forest.  Going  on 
through  the  gate  by  the  temple  of  Ifamescs  VI,  one 
comes  upon  three  avenues,  containing  no  less  than  4,000 
sphinxes, 

Fi'om  Luxor  we  crossed  the  Xile  in  boats,  forded  one 
branch  on  donkeys,  and  over  another  were  carried  on  the 
backs  of  men.  The  ford  was  crossed  by  the  aid  of  a  fel* 
lab  wading  on  each  side  to  keep  the  rider  in  the  saddle, 
and  the  small  animal  from  siidving  over  head  and  ears  in 
the  mud.  On  this  side  the  river  is  the  necro}»olis,  the 
tombs  of  the  people,  which  are  used  in  many  cases  as  the 
abode  of  the  living,  and  northward  in  the  white  limestone 
hills,  barren,  lonely,  inhabited  only  by  vultures,  the  Jackal, 
the  serpents,  and  bats,  are  the  wonderful  tombs  of  the 
kings.  Wc  visited  the  temple  of  Medinat  Iial)oo,  which 
has  in  its  court  the  ruins  of  a  Christian  church,  the  Ra- 
meseum,  temple  of  Kurnah,  and  that  of  (iueeii  llatasu. 
Like  tlie  colossi  of  Memnon,  these  have  all  l)een  often 
spoken  of  by  travelers  from  Tlei'odotus  down,  but  all  de- 
scri[)tion  fails  to  give  any  true  idea  of  the  I'eality.  The 
Libyan  bills  are  fairly  honey-combed  with  elaltorately 
carved  toml)s  covt'red  with  inscriptions.  These,  like  the 
temples,  are  tlie  books  in  which  they  have  written  theii' 
history.  V.  went  into  one  of  the  most  famous,  known  as 
Belzoni's,  and  numbered  for  convenience  17.  It  is  the 
tomb  of  f^eti  L  The  alabaster  sai'cojihagus  is  now  in 
81oane"s  Museum,  London,  and  the  body,  which  a})pears  to 
have  been  removed  during  some  ^■ery  early  invasion,  has 
been  f  )und  at  Davr  el  Bahree,     To  enter  the  tondt  one 


402  MRS.    SMYTH'S   JOURNAL. 

approaches  through  a  deep  gorge,  goes  down  a  wide,  steep 
descent  of  twenty-four  steps  through  a  passage  eighteen 
feet  long,  down  a  simihir  stairway  and  passage  into  a 
chamber.  Then  comes  a  deep  pit  and  beyond  other  rooms, 
concealed  once  by  close  iitting  doors  and  brightly  painted 
stucco,  which  has  the  finish  and  hardness  of  enamel. 
Here  Belzoni  made  a  breach  in  the  wall,  which  opened  the 
way  to  more  vaulted  and  pillared  rooms,  and  at  last  to  the 
royal  tomb.  It  is  a  spacious  vaulted  chamber  200  by  75  or 
80  feet,  with  a  rough  hewn  corridor  l)eyond.  It  is  covered 
with  inscriptions  telling  the  story  of  the  nether  Avorld  as 
the  ancient  Egyptians  conceived  it.  Our  day's  work  done 
find  lunch  disposed  of,  we  return  by  ford,  carry,  and  boat 
to  Luxor.  Here  our  steamer,  the  Ghizch,  was  waiting  to 
take  Mr.  Cook,  head  of  the  Nile  Transportation  Company, 
and  his  family  down  to  Cairo,  on  account  of  an  accident 
which  had  happened  to  him  at  the  iirst  cataract.  We 
therefore  spent  the  night  at  Hotel  Luxor,  to  be  transferred 
in  the  morning  to  the  Mahala. 

While  at  Luxor  we  all  had  our  pictures  taken,  being 
posted  for  that  purpose  in  the  blinding  sun  on  the  bank 
of  the  river.  With  a  little  knowledge  and  taste  on  the 
part  of  the  artist  it  might  have  been  made  a  picturesque 
scene,  for  often  buffaloes  and  their  drivers  are  sporting  in 
the  water,  and  the  outline  of  the  liills  and  the  palm  groves 
may  be  seen  on  the  opposite  side.  He,  however,  was  ob- 
livious of  such  matters,  so  that  the  picture  of  the  grouj* 
leaves  more  to  the  imagination. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23(1  of  Fcljruary  we  were  to 
start  for  Assouan  and  intervening  points  of  interest. 
Our  hotel  was  pleasant  and  well  kei)t,  its  rooms  looking 
out  on  tine  gardens,  and  was  really  a  ])lace  of  refreshing 
rest.  After  breakfast  F.  took  a  last  little  turn  about  town, 
and  I  was  more  inclined  to  walk  with  the  ladies  of  our 
party  in  the  garden.     To  meet  a  funeral  is  said  to  be 


A  CRISIS.  403 

unlucky,  and  it  came  near  being  so  to  us.  We  had 
often  seen  them  along  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  straggling 
crowds  of  the  Fellaheen,  weeping  and  wailing  after  some 
poor  remnant  of  mortality  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four 
or  more  in  a  coffin  covered  with  a  red  shawl,  and  on  this 
morning  F.,  in  the  course  of  his  rambles,  stumbled  upon 
one  in  preparation,  the  man  having  just  died,  and  straight- 
way got  so  interested  in  the  proceedings  that  he  forgot  all 
about  the  time.  Meanwhile  the  messenger  from  the 
Mahala  announced  that  she  was  ready ;  all  the  passengers 
save  one,  alas  !  had  left  the  hotel ;  moments,  hours  slipped 
by;  another  messenger,  ten  o'clock,  captain  storming. 
English  people  told  him  to  go  on — wanted  our  cabin. 
Americans  (and  they  were  strangers)  stood  by  the  gang- 
plank and  said,  "No, you  shan't  go  till  every  American  is 
on  board."  It  was  a  critical  juncture,  but  just  at  that 
time  a  couple  of  hot,  breathless,  panting  travelers,  "  lard- 
ing the  lean  earth,"  with  attendant  Hassans  and  Moham- 
meds  clutching  their  traps,  came  down  the  sandy  shore, 
and  once  more  Bunker  Hill  won  the  day.  The  bubbling 
little  steamer  put  on  all  her  force,  and  we  were  on  the 
way  to  the  first  cataract. 

Our  stopping-place  was  Esneh,  on  the  left  Ijank  of  the 
Nile,  twenty  miles  or  more  from  Luxor.  Here  is  a  great 
hall  with  columns,  which  is  reached  from  the  harbor  by 
passing  through  the  town.  It  is  part  of  an  inmiense 
temple  wliicli  remains  covered,  and  on  which,  in  fact,  the 
town  is  built.  Descending  through  a  narrow  passage-way 
into  the  interior,  one  sees  a  very  perfect  and  immense 
hall  supported  on  twenty-four  colinnns,  each  of  which  is 
thirty-eight  feet  high  and  raised  on  a  high  plinth.  The 
capitals  all  difler  in  detail,  a  flower  bell,  on  which  is  carved 
various  designs,  as  of  palms,  grape  leaves,  etc.,  giving  the 
whole  a  most  graceful  and  picturescpie  effect.  Every 
available  inch  of  space  has  the  ''handwriting  upon  the 


404  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

wall."  The  structure  was  built  on  the  foundation  of  one 
by  Thothmes  I,  in  the  mid  era  of  the  Ptolemies,  and  was 
iinished  by  the  Romans.  Esneh  is  the  great  resort  of  the 
(Thawazee,  who  on  a  time  were  banished  to  this  place 
from  Cairo,  and  it  has  remained  one  of  their  favorite 
haunts  to  this  day.  The  market-place,  the  viceroy's 
palace,  the  Koptic  church,  and  the  bazaar,  are  worth  visit- 
ing, and  attest  the  rather  flourishing  condition  of  the 
place,  which  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  !Nile  towns. 
Moving  on  up  the  river  we  pass  FA  Kab  and  reach  Edfoo, 
about  twenty-tive  miles  from  Esneli  and  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river.  Here  we  saw  the  remains  of  the  most  per- 
fect temple  which  has  yet  been  unburied  in  Egypt.  So 
perfect  that,  says  Ebers,  if  the  old  priests  could  return, 
there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  repeating  every  part  of  the 
temple  service.  It  was  not  many  years  since  nearly  cov- 
ered with  earth,  and  built  upon  in  every  available  position. 
Mariette  Bey,  the  French  savant,  got  permission  to  dis- 
lodge the  "squatters,"  settled  them  in  new  quarters,  and 
then  carefully  removed  the  dehris  of  ages.  We  ascended 
the  propylon  250  steps,  and  were  rewarded  by  a  magnifi- 
cent view.  Immediately  below  us  stretches  out  the 
tem}tle  dedicated  to  Ilorus,  whose  symbol  is  the  sparrow- 
hawk,  which  is  seen  carved  in  stone  and  in  all  jiarts  of 
the  inclosure.  Like  other  temples,  this  was  built  on  an 
earlier  foundation,  and  was  only  Iinished  by  that  Ptolemy 
who  was  tile  father  of  Cleopatra,  in  the  year  ")7  b.  c. 
The  hawk  is  a  very  common  bird  here  now.  In  the  sanc- 
tuary or  innermost  court  is  a  shrine  of  por[»liyry,  which 
was  l)rought  here  from  afar  in  time  of  tlie  Persian  inva- 
sion. All  about  on  this  side  the  Xile  are  cultivated  fields, 
hamlets  with  mosques,  and  groves  of  palm.  Yearly  in 
tlie  ancient  time  was  a  grand  festival,  when  Athor,  the 
goddess  of  J)endera,  visited  her  husband  Ilorus  at  Edfoo, 
and  at  another  season  the  visit  was  returned.     Tlie  ufreat 


THE    TKMPLES.  405 

proceasion  of  barges  and  luxuriously  appointed  boats  on 
the  Nile  was  beyond  comparison  in  magniticence.  Cere- 
monies in  regard  to  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Xile  were  also 
observed  at  these  times.  It  is  not  a  little  singular  that  at 
Dendera  and  Edfoo  the  temples  so  related  in  their  woi-- 
ship  should  have  been  so  nearly  preserved. 

But  our  time  was  up  ;  we  returned  to  the  Mahala,  and 
presently  a  dispute  arose  among  the  party  of  thirty-two 
as  to  the  day  of  the  week.  Certainly,  when  considering 
epochs  of  4,000  years,  more  or  less,  the  days  of  the  week 
could  hardly  l)e  picked  up  as  they  passed.  We  roferre<l 
it  to  the  clergymen,  wlio  were  a  little  doubtful,  but  de- 
cided it  to  be  Saturday  afternoon  as  we  reached  Kom  ()m- 
boo  and  tied  up  for  the  night.  On  Sunday,  Mr.  Phili})S, 
a  Presbyterian  clergyman,  read  the  Episcopal  service  for 
the  benetit  of  such  as  inclined  t(t  that  form,  and  the  Rev. 
Dr.  Wilson,  from  Edinburgh,  gave  an  excellent  sermon. 
At  this  place  the  temple  is  nearly  all  in  ruins  and  its  situ- 
ation is  such  that  the  undermining  Nile  on  the  one  side 
and  the  desert  on  the  other  will  in  a  few  years  destroy 
every  vestige.  The  columns  that  remain  and  the  astro- 
nomical ])aintings  on  the  ceiling,  are  no  less  worthy  of 
notice  than  others  we  have  seen.  Like  others,  it  was 
rebuilt  by  the  Ptolemies  and  tinished  by  Tiberius  C;esar. 
When  Greek  soldiers  were  stationed  here,  it  was  dedi- 
cated to  Apollo,  an  inscrijttion  c»n  one  of  the  walls  stating 
as  much.  When  such  places  have  l^een  used  for  Chris- 
tian worship  the  inscriptions  were  sinqily  plastered  over 
with  Nile  mud,  upon  which  were  jiainted  the  saints  and 
other  insignia  of  the  new  faitli.  From  Tvom  Omboo  we 
proceeded  to  Assouan,  wlicre  we  remained  two  days,  und 
made  excursions  to  the  various  ])oints  of  interest.  Assouan 
itself  is  the  the  ancient  Syene,  and  from  the  peculiar 
kind  of  granite  found  here  the  name  syenite  was  derived, 
in    the  [>lace  of   mica,  which  forms  a  part  of  our  New 


406  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

Hampshire  granite,  is  found  hornblende.  After  the 
desert  banks  just  below,  the  port  of  Assouan,  with  the 
town  half  concealed  in  palm  groves,  is  very  attractive. 
There  is  an  extraordinary  variety  of  inhabitants,  all  eager 
for  trade  in  their  various  wares,  and,  of  course,  a  Babel  in 
speech.  Trinkets  in  ivory,  gold  and  silver  bracelets,  pan- 
ther and  leopard  skins,  baskets,  wooden  bowls,  amulets, 
the  scanty  Xubian  dresses  of  fringed  leather,  are  urged 
upon  the  traveler  with  Oriental  tongue  and  gesticulation. 
We  did  a  little  shopping  in  the  bazaars.  Invariably  the 
dealer  asked  about  five  times  the  worth  of  his  goods,  and 
concessions  were  wrung  from  him  by  our  guide  with  a 
row  that  threatened  to  disrupt  the  whole  body  politic. 
One  curious  fact  we  noticed,  of  a  little  Aralj  who  followed 
us  about,  and  when  the  wrangling  liad  reached  a  certain 
pitch,  said  to  the  dealer  in  regard  to  our  oft'er,  "  Take  it," 
which  he  did  without  further  parley. 

From  here  we  mounted  donkeys  to  visit  Philfe  and  the 
cataract;  on  our  way  we  saw  the  quarries  from  which 
some  of  the  stones  were  hewn  for  the  temples.  There 
lay,  as  it  was  left  unfinished,  an  obelisk,  a  single  stone, 
eighty  feet  in  length  and  seven  feet  square  at  the  base. 
It  had  not  Ijeen  freed  from  the  stone  on  the  under 
sides,  and  no  inscription  tells  by  whom  it  was  begun  or 
why  it  was  left.  These  vast  quarries  are  about  as  sur- 
prising as  the  buildings  that  were  erected  from  them. 
Here  and  at  Silsilis,  and  some  other  places  within  a  few 
miles  (^f  Assouan,  all  the  most  valuable  stone  for  the  pol- 
ished exterior  of  ]>yramids,  tombs,  and  temples  through- 
out Egy}»t  were  taken.  Xear  the  town  we  pass  the  tem- 
ple of  Isis  Sothis,  or  Lady  of  the  Dogstar,  and  then 
emerge  into  a  desert  of  rock  and  yellow  sand,  diversified 
by  views  of  a  picturesque  mosque  toml).  Occasionally 
we  meet  Xubians  with  asses  or  camels  on  their  way  to 
market,  and,  before  reaching  Pliihe,  see  a  high,  strong 


PHIL/E    AND    THE    CATARACT.  407 

wall  which  crosses  the  road  several  times  and  seems  to 
have  been  intetided  for  defense.  Huge  cliffs  now  and  then 
rise  np  on  either  side,  covered  with  innumerable  inscrip- 
tions from  travelers  of  all  the  ages.  The  ])ath  grows 
more  and  more  forbidding,  desolation  broods  over  the 
scorched  and  scorching  rock  and  sand  until,  turning  at  an 
abrupt  ])oint,  a  little  oasis  shaded  with  sycamores  and 
palms  reveals  in  its  refreshing  depths  the  house  of  a  mis- 
sionary society.  The  Xile,  and  Phihe  with  its  tem])les,  are 
before  us.  Enviable  little  fellows  are  swimming  about  or 
lounging  b}'  the  boats,  on  Avhich  they  otl'er  to  ferry  us 
across,  and  we  are  fairly  enchanted  by  the  scene.  Phihe 
is  doubtless  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  on  the  Xile. 
It  was  dedicated  to  the  goddess  Isis  (wliose  sign  is  the 
cow),  in  whose  honor  a  temple  was  erected.  The  shores 
arc  protected  from  the  encroachments  of  the  water  by 
walls  of  solid  masonry.  This  was  the  last  stronghold  of 
Egyptian  idol  \vorshi[),  some  features  of  which  were 
adopted  by  Greeks  and  Romans,  so  that  it  was  not  until 
the  6tli  century  that  the  ancient  shrines  were  displaced 
by  the  cross,  which  in  its  turn  gave  way  to  the  crescent. 
The  sacred  processions  which  came  from  all  jiarts  of  the 
land  to  Philic  are  supposed  to  have  landed  on  the  south- 
ern extremity,  where  a  stone  stairway  leads  from  the 
water,  and  presently  by  the  usual  a]»proaclies  to  the  great 
temple.  On  t])e  toj)  of  the  temple  is  a  shrine  wliere  the 
god  ( )siris  was  exyiected  to  ris(>  to  life  again.  Among  the 
most  graceful  and  airy  structures  on  the  island  is  the 
Kiosk,  or  Pharaoh's  ]>ed,  built  by  the  Komans. 

The  cataract  was  not  much  of  a  sliow.  The  An)0skeag 
falls  at  our  door  are  (juite  as  worthy  of  the  name,  more 
dangerous  to  shoot,  and  more  vigorous  in  action.  And 
yet  tliere  is  an  interest  attaching  to  the  scene  inde[)endent 
of  its  size  or  noise.  The  ]irinci[)al  channel  up  which  the 
boatmen  uro-e  their  craft  is  200  bv  about  70  feet  with  a  fall 


408  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

of  perhaps  15  toet.  The  place  is  so  strewn  with  bowlders 
polished  with  tlie  watery  attrition  of  years  tliat  naNigation 
is  difficult  and  dangerous.  There  are  other  and  more 
tortuous  channels,  and  there  were  plenty  of  ifubians  ready 
for  the  smallest  pay  to  bundle  their  scanty  clothing  on 
their  heads  and  shoot  the  rapids  on  a  log  or  a  bundle  of 
canes.  Xot  far  from  here  is  the  grove  of  an  Englishman 
who  thought  he  could  do  the  same  thing  and  perished  in 
the  attempt.  While  here  on  the  ^N^ubian  side  of  the  line 
we  visited  one  of  the  villages,  a  most  miserable  collection 
of  mud  huts,  whose  dwellers  were  as  l)lack  as  the  verti- 
cal sun  of  tho  tropics  could  make  them,  and  who  wore 
their  hair  braided  in  ropes  about  the  size  of  a  small  whip- 
cord and  drenched  with  ill-smelling  oil.  They  had  nc> 
particular  occupation  excei»t  begging,  and  could  aftbrd  to 
give  time  to  tlie  arrangement  of  the  coitfure,  especially 
if,  as  secnied  not  unlikely,  they  did  it  only  once  a  year. 
On  returning  to  Assouan  we  crossed  to  Elephantine,  so 
named  because  it  was  once  a  great  mart  for  the  ivory  of 
the  Soudan.  From  one  end  of  the  island  the  view  down 
the  Xile  is  very  grand  and  wild,  clitfs  arising  on  either 
side.  There  are  now  few  remains  of  interest,  except  per- 
haps the  Xilometer,  which,  constructed  many  years  before 
Christ,  has  been  re]uiired  and  measures  the  rise  and  fall 
of  the  river  with  its  old  tidelity.  There  were  several  of 
these  instruments  at  various  })oints  on  the  Xile,  and  their 
recoi'd  was  shrouded  in  mystery  l)y  the  priests,  whose  in- 
terest it  was  to  nuike  the  common  }ieople  believe  that  they 
exercised  ])0\ver  o\er  the  movements  of  the  watc!-.  In 
later  times  government  offieials  have  ]>reserved  the  same 
secrecy,  and  as  the  river  rises  well  or  ill  so  the  taxes  are 
pr(>[H»rtione(';. 


CirA  PTER     XXXIX 


DOWN    THE    NILE. CAIRO. 


Startin(j  toward  Cairc,  we  again  reached  Luxor  and 
tied  up  for  the  niglit.  The  next  day  nevera]  English  })eo- 
ple  called  on  us,  and  we  visited  the  mission  school,  doing" 
also  a  little  shop}»ing  in  the  bazaars.  Tlie  exercises  of  tlie 
pupils  excited  so  much  interest  in  the  visitors  that  a  con- 
tribution was  started  on  the  spot,  and  a  young  English 
lady  gave  (juite  a  large  sum.  It  was  a  fortunate  day  for 
the  school.  The  next  night  our  boat  tied  u[)  at  Girzeh, 
and  then  on  Friday,  the  Mohammedan  Sabl)atli,  we 
reached  Assyout.  Here  we  went  on  shore,  and  F.  visited 
some  of  the  higher  gra<]e  of  schools.  It  was  excessively 
hot,  buzzards  slowly  tla[)ped  their  listless  wings,  and 
crows,  dove-colored  with  l>lack  wings,  might  be  seen 
flying  about. 

The  conjunctio]!  of  Sabbaths  was  very  curious,  Friday 
the  Mohammedan,  Saturday  the  Jewish,  and  Sunday  the 
C/hristian;  and  as  tliere  were  })eople  enough  who  had  scru- 
ples about  doing  any  work  on  their  respective  days,  on 
the  boat  and  all  al>out  us,  it  consumed  (piite  a  share  of  the 
week. 

We  continued  on  oui-  way  down  the  river,  touching  at 
the  Fellah  villao-e  of  Mautaloot,  near  which  is  the  moun- 
tain of  AI)oo  Fawdah,  greatly  dreaded  by  the  navigators 
in  these  waters,  and  the  celebrated  crocodile  cave  of 
Maalxleh,  where  there  are  and  have  been  coi'ds  of  em- 
balmed saurians,  with  nov,-  an.d  then  an  Egyj»tian  thrown 
in.  We  also  visited  Beni  Hassan,  famous  for  its  rock 
tombs,  whose  inscri[itiotis  chronicle  the  story  of  a  peace- 


410  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

ful  race  addicted  to  agriculture  and  the  arts  of  peace. 
Flowers,  grapes,  and  garlands  are  tokens  of  the  life  they 
led  before  the  rising  of  the  great  kings.  On  Sunday, 
March  4,  we  reached  Cairo,  where  we  proposed  to  spend 
a  week  and  to  explore  as  well  as  we  might  tlie  famous 
City  of  the  Caliphs. 

Doubtless  the  world  moves.  Five  years  had  made  some 
visible  change  for  the  better  even  in  an  Oriental  city.  To 
be  sure,  the  old  quarter  was  older  still  and,  if  possible, 
more  squalid  and  tilthy ;  but  modern  Cairo  had  felt  a  little 
the  thrill  of  the  world's  progress,  had  some  new  buildings, 
improved  streets,  and  a  creditable  park  in  front  of  the  new 
hotel  where  we  took  up  our  ([uarters.  An  Egyptian  band 
discoursed  music  from  brazen  throats,  distinguished  rather 
by  quantity  than  quality,  Avhich  served,  however,  to  tone 
up  the  various  noises  of  the  street.  They  did,  however, 
among  the  weird  strains  of  native  music,  introduce 
"  Sweet  Home "  and  a  few  sucli  airs.  In  fact,  one  may 
always  be  sure  of  a  noise  in  an  Eastern  town.  There  is 
generally  a  Babel  of  languages  and  an  aggregated 
clamor  of  tongues  and  voices,  where  the  braying  of  jack- 
asses and  the  grunting  of  camels  make  no  discord.  When, 
for  instance,  we  rode  from  the  hotel,  the  driver  was 
accom]ianied  on  tlie  box  by  a  man  mIio  inc-essantly  vocif- 
erated with  the  utmost  force  of  his  lungs  for  foot  passen- 
gers to  clear  the  way,  and  when  high  officials  rode,  a  half 
dozen  runners  in  white  tunics  ran  before,  each  doing  his 
loudest.  Pupils  in  schools  all  study  aloud  and  a})parently 
do  nothing  but  yell,  swinging  backward  and  forward  as 
they  sit  and  shout. 

But  let  us  not  anticipate.  We  are  working  back  to 
modern  times.  Cairo,  built  up  out  of  the  ruins  of  Mem- 
phis and  of  Heliopolis,  is  l)ut  a  mere  chick  of  a  city.  In 
the  year  638  a.  d.,  or  six  years  after  the  death  of  Ma- 
homet, a  band  of  ^[oslem  fanatics,  numbering  only  about 


CAIRO.  411 

4,000,  men  came  into  Egypt  from  Syria,  and  such  was 
their  tierce  bravery  that  by  the  aid  of  the  Kopts  they 
conquered  and  forced  to  leave  the  country  the  Greek 
army,  at  that  time  numberina;  100,000.  The  name  of  this 
Arab  general  was  Amroo-ibnel-Asee.  He  pitched  his 
tent  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  old  Cairo,  and  as  he 
was  about  to  set  out  on  his  victorious  foray,  it  was  dis- 
covered that  a  pair  of  pigeons  had  built  on  the  canvas 
shelter,  whereupon  said  he,  "  God  forbid  that  a  Moslem 
should  refuse  a  shelter  to  any  living  being  —  one  of  God's 
creatures — that  has  put  itself  under  the  protection  of  his 
hospitality."  So  the  tent  stood,  and  here  began  the  foun- 
dation of  Cairo.  To-day,  the  Mosque  of  Amroo,  which 
we  visited,  is  said  to  be  the  finest  specimen  of  early  Arab 
architecture  in  existence,  not  excelled  even  by  the  mosque 
cathedral  at  Cordova.  Its  vast  colonnades  of  marble  pil- 
lars of  every  order  (jf  architecture  except  the  Egyptian, 
which  is  rigorously  excluded,  cast  their  shadows  on  the 
lioors  covered  by  prayer  mats,  where  the  faithful  are  at 
their  devotions.  It  was  our  good  fortune  to  be  in  Cairo 
during  the  fete  of  the  Xew  Year.  The  bazaars  and  shops 
were  brilliantly  illuminated  with  tiny  lamps  of  various 
colors,  and  the  streets  swarmed  with  a  gay,  good-natured, 
and  civil  crowd;  we  saw  no  fighting,  no  drunkenness,  no 
rudeness,  and  yet  under  these  exteriors  beat  the  tierce 
l)lood  of  the  fanatical  pO])ulation  so  easily  excited  to 
bloodshed. 

Among  the  marvels  of  this  Xew  Year's  night  was  the 
illumination  of  the  Mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali.  It 
seemed  as  though  there  must  have  been  millions  of  lamps 
interior  and  exterior,  covering  dome  and  minaret  to  the 
very  to}>most  point.  We  rode  out  to  see  the  show,  and 
the  merchants  in  their  shops,  so  to  s[»eak,  kept  open 
doors.  With  urgent  hut  courteous  entreaties  they  invited 
us  in  and  offered  refreshments  of  pipes,  coffee,  and  sher- 


412  MRS.    SMYTH'S    JOURNAL. 

bet,  displaying,  meanwhile,  their  richest  wares,  so  that  we 
might  know  where  to  come  and  trade.  It  was  on  this 
occasion  that  we  saw  the  ladies  of  the  khedive's  harem 
riding,  in  European  costume  and  in  superb  carriages,  at- 
tended by  no  end  of  out-runners  and  servants,  themselves 
a  part  of  the  show  they  were  out  to  see. 

I  was  one  day  favored  with  an  interview  with  the 
princess,  wifV  of  a  brother  of  the  khedive.  She  was  at- 
tended by  a  friend,  and  both  were  apparently  accomplished 
and  intelligent  ladies,  speaking  English  fairly  well.  She 
was,  however,  in  great  grief  on  account  of  the  death  of 
the  chief  eunuch  of  her  household,  who  died,  as  she  told 
us,  of  a  broken  heart.  Having  occasion  for  the  services 
of  a  dentist,  who  was  English  and  employed  at  the  court, 
he  told  me  that  the  late  lamented  gentleman  in  question, 
who  served  as  butler,  made  so  free  use  of  the  wines  at  his 
dis[»osal  that  he  had  burst  with  good  living.  The  den- 
tist also  entertained  me  with  an  amusing  account  of  liis 
trials  in  replacing  the  pearly  teeth  of  the  ladies  of  the 
harem,  who  insisted  on  his  doing  the  work  without  re- 
quiring them  to  unveil.  One  woman  in  particular,  who 
had  long  ceased  to  be  ornamental,  danced  about  the  room 
in  a  [terfect  fury  because  the  imjiression  of  her  mouth 
could  not  be  taken  with  her  veil  up.  At  last  the  dental 
surgeon  got  mad  and  berated  her  soundly,  whereupon 
she  surrendered  her  scruples:  "and,"  said  he,  "  I  did  not 
blame  her  for  wishing  to  remain  eo\'ered.  for  she  disclosed 
the  features  of  such  a  horrible  old  hag  that  it  was  almctst 
incredil»le.""  In  sup[>ort  of  his  story  he  showed  us  the 
cast,  which  seemed  taken  more  from  the  nK)Uth  of  an 
itnimal  than  of  a  human  l>eing.  All  of  which  goes  to 
conlirni  the  assertion  that  Eastern  beauty  matures  early, 
fades  ([uickly.  and  at  last  terminates  in  supreme  ugliness. 

F.  was  rec-eive<l  by  the  khedive;  he  alsc)  spoke  P^nglish, 
but  not  with   irreat  fluencv.      In  allusion  to  Euijlish  rule, 


WITH    THE    KHEDIVE.  413 

F.  said  to  him,  "I  don't  know  how  it  is  with  you  here, 
but  at  lionie  w^e  say,  America  for  Americans."  He  evi- 
dently understood  the  allusion,  but  was  of  course  non- 
committal, lie  said  that  Egyptians  were  a  mixed  race 
and  not  cai)able  of  self-government.  Our  consul  after- 
ward told  us  that  tlie  khedive  was  unusually  interested  in 
the  talk,  as  visitors  mostly  had  little  to  say  and  waited  for 
him  to  lead  off,  and  it  seemed  to  be  a  new  sensation  to 
hear  some  one  who  did  not  hesitate  to  advance  an  idea  of 
his  own.  F,  invited  the  khedive  to  come  to  xVmerica  and 
bring  his  family,  to  which  lie  said,  "  Our  ladies  are  not  so 
fond  of  traveling  as  yours  are."  "That  is  a  fortunate 
thing  for  you,"  says  the  ex-governor,  "for  to  bring  my 
one  wife  to  the  East  twice  has  cost  several  thousand 
francs."  His  highness  smiled  and  F.  arose  to  go,  but,  on 
being  urged,  sat  down,  and  they  conversed  further  on 
various  topics ;  and  his  higliness  was  pleased  to  say  that 
"our  ])eople,"  meaning  the  American  missionaries,  "were 
doing  great  good  l\y  establishing  schools,"  etc. 

Tliere  are  various  places  of  great  interest  near  Cairo  to 
be  reached  by  carriage.  One  day  we  visited  Ileliopolis, 
where  stands  the  oldest  ol)elisk  in  Egy}»t,  which  with 
many  others  formerly  graced  tlie  approach  to  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun.  It  was  situated  a  few  miles  northeast  from 
Cairo,  Jind  was  once  the  seat  and  center  of  Egvptian  learn- 
ing. \u  the  Bible  it  was  called  On,  and  here  dwelt  that 
pi-iest  whose  daughtei"  ^^•as  the  wife  of  Joseph.  On  our 
way  thither  we  passed  a  garden  containing  a  sycamore 
tree  under  whose  In'anches  tlie  holy  family  are  said  to 
have  sojourned  wliile  in  Egypt,  and  a  spring  of  sweet 
water  which  first  lost  its  brackisji  taste  when  the  infant 
Jesus  ])athed  in  it.  The  obelisks  are  said  to  have  been 
almost  innumerable  here,  and  the  solitary  remaining  one 
is  covered  with  inscriptions.  Our  way  hither  was  pai'tly 
hot  and   dustv,  beinir  on  the  contines  of  the  deseit,  and 


414  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

partly  in  the  grateful  shade  of  trees  and  by  beautiful 
gardens,  one  of  the  palaces  of  the  khedive  being  on  this 
route. 

At  the  extreme  southern  part  of  Cairo  is  the  old  city, 
where  the  improvements  of  the  new  quarter  have  not 
reached.  Taking  a  boat  from  this  locality  we  visit  the 
island  of  Rhoda,  on  which  is  a  famous  nilometer,  very 
ancient  but  in  good  working  order.  It  consists  of  a  ver- 
tical shaft  sunk  to  the  level  of  the  bed  of  the  river,  Avith 
which  it  communicates  by  a  subterranean  tunnel.  An 
octagonal  pillar  stands  in  the  center  of  the  shaft,  on  which 
is  inscribed  the  scale. 

There  is  no  place  in  any  part  of  the  world  that  we  have 
visited  ^^■here  the  view  is  more  impressive  than  that  from 
the  citadel  at  Cairo.  The  way  to  it  is  well  kept,  and 
climbing  a  steep  road  one  comes  upon  a  small  plateau. 
The  flat  roofs  of  the  city,  the  minarets  and  domes  of  the 
mosques,  the  swarms  of  people  on  the  Roomeleh  square, 
first  attract  the  eye.  Then  to  the  west  flows  the  Xile 
between  its  green  banks,  and  farther  along  on  the  edge  ot 
the  desert  the  pyramids  lift  their  pointed  caps  to  the  glow- 
ing sky.  Then  across  the  hill  of  Mokattam,  on  which 
the  citadel  is  built,  east  and  south  is  visible  the  necropolis 
of  Cairo,  the  tombs  of  the  Mamelukes,  and  northeast 
those  of  the  caliphs.  Domed  mausoleums  rise  up  here 
and  there  in  the  desert  sands.  Everpvhere  and  in  every 
direction  scenes  new,  strange,  and  marvelous  to  our  west- 
ern ideas  present  themselves.  These  things  are  all  beauti- 
ful, but  beyond  compare  is  the  sunset  glow  over  the  ISTile, 
the  desert,  and  the  Libyan  hills. 

As  we  descend  and  enter  the  inner  courts  of  the  citadel 
they  show  us  a  well  of  great  antiquity,  ascribed  by  the 
common  people  to  Joseph,  the  son  of  the  patriarch.  It 
was  excavated,  however,  in  the  reign  of  Saladin,  whose 
name  was  Yoosuf.     It  is  289  feet  deep,  and  the  water  is 


JOSEPH'S    WELL.  415 

raised  in  jars  by  the  help  of  oxen,  whicli  go  up  nnd  down 
on  an  inclined  plane  about  half  the  depth  of  the  sliaft. 
We  were  expected  to  taste  the  water,  which  lias  a  Ijrackish 
flavor.  It  Avas  in  the  court  of  this  citadel  that  the  mas- 
sacre of  the  Mameluke  beys  took  place,  and  they  show 
us  the  place  where  the  sole  survivor  escaped  by  spurring 
his  horse  over  the  parapet  to  the  rocks  below.  Some  of 
the  nios([ues  have  establishments  for  students  .wlio  are 
pre|>aring  for  the  [)riesthood,  and  there  will  be  forty  oi- 
fifty  young  men  studying  the  Koran.  There  are  also 
hospitals  for  the  care  of  the  sick,  said  to  be  very  excellent 
in  their  way,  but  only  for  Moslems. 

During  our  stay  at  Cairo  occurred  the  annual  meeting 
of  the  mission  workers  under  the  care  of  the  American 
Presbyterian  Board.  They  were  present  from  every 
station  on  the  Xile,  and  made  reports,  gave  suggestions, 
and  took  counsel.  As  a  whole,  the  reports  were  most 
encouraging.  It  was  named  as  a  special  cause  for  thank- 
fulness, that  after  the  recent  war,  when  the  missionaries 
were  all  removed  with  their  families  on  English  ships  of 
war,  that  on  their  return,  when  they  expected  to  find  their 
scholars  scattered  and  schools  destroyed,  that  all  came 
safely  together  again,  and  the  work  wont  on  with  renewed 
prosperity.  One  of  the  most  interesting  places  we  visited 
in  the  vicinity  was  the  nniseum  at  Boulac  or  Boolak, 
This  is,  properly  speaking,  the  harbor  of  Cairo,  as  the 
city  does  not  lie  directly  on  the  Xile,  pi-obably  for  the 
reason  that  has  made  it  already  necessary  to  rebuild  on 
the  other  Ijank  of  the  river  the  museum,  the  ever  en- 
croaching waters.  In  this  museum  are  preserved  speci- 
mens of  Egyptian  art  from  the  earliest  period,  say  5,000 
years  old,  down  to  modern  or  historic  times,  and  they  are 
arranged  chronologically  so  that  one  can  judge  of  the 
skill  of  any  age.  The  articles  here  preser\-ed  relate  not 
only  to  high  art  but  to  every  detail  of  common  life :  in 


41f)  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

short,  a  history  of  that  wonderful  people  in  stone,  clay, 
^i^old,  glass,  silver,  and  whatsoever  they  set  their  hands  to. 
The  smaller  and  more  valuable  specimens  are  under  glass 
cases ;  the  sphinxes  and  other  large  statues  in  the  open 
court.  Tlie  excellent  arrangement  is  due  to  the  efforts  of 
the  late  Mariette  Bey.  As  we  are  driven  back  to  our 
hotel,  we  shall  notice  certain  bazaars  where  are  sold  slip- 
pers and  books.  The  familiar  i»un,  that  both  relate  to 
the  understanding,  does  not  explain  it,  as  the  odd  associa- 
tion is  due  to  both  being  bound  in  or  covered  with  red 
leather.  Night  })erhaps  falls  as  we  reach  the  Ezbekiah 
Square,  and  it  is  illuminated  with  thousands  of  little  glass 
lamps  with  colored  bell-shaped  shades,  and  its  gardens 
and  walks  are  thronged  by  a  crowd  that  for  variety 
and  interest  is  not  sur})assed  in  any  city  of  the  world. 
The  civilization  of  the  East  and  of  the  West  here  meet  on 
common  ground ;  ladies  in  all  attires,  from  the  fashions 
of  Paris  to  the  veils  ot  the  harem  ;  sheiks  with  Euro- 
pean servants,  and  Europeans  with  Xubiaii  attendants. 

I  have  before  named  the  mosque  foundations  where 
students  are  received.  The  most  famous  of  these  to  which 
students  come  from  the  confines  of  Mohammedan  rule  is 
tiie  Mos(|ue  and  ITniversity  Elezlier.  It  was  founded  in 
the  reign  of  the  Fatimites,  and  is  to-day  su}»p()rted,  or 
was  befoi'c  the  great  collapse  in  the  I'evenue,  l)y  the 
khedive.  There  were  in  1877,  lAY-^o  scliolai-s  and  231 
}trofessoi-s,  and  in  tljc  more  pros[ierons  times  these  num- 
bers were  inci'eased  In-  at  least  one  third.  Tlie  [irofessors 
lecture  on  various  texts  of  the  Koran,  and  their  disciples 
in  the  spacious  courts  and  halls  of  the  ni()S(iues  (for  more 
than  one  is  recjuired  to  accommodate  them)  take  co]>ious 
notes.  The  droning  tone  of  tlie  professor,  the  monoto- 
nous repetition  of  the  student,  the  swinging  motion  of 
tlie  whole  school,  the  cross-legged  desks  on  which 
their  Korans,  portfolios,  and  manuseripts  are  laid,  form  a 


A    MOHAMMEDAN    UNIVERSITY.  417 

curious  sight.  After  about  two  uiid  a  half  hours'  study 
they  rise,  kiss  the  hand  of  their  instructor,  and  take  a 
recess.  AVlien  the  call  of  the  muezzin  is  heard,  all  repair 
to  the  fountain  in  tlie  court,  [terfona  their  aV)lutioMs,  and 
offer  their  |»rayers.  After  the  midday  siesta  study  is 
resumed  until  night.  Like  the  letter-writers  one  sees  on 
the  streets  and  in  sliady  niches,  they  hold  their  paper  on 
the  italm  of  the  left  hand  and  with  a  reed  pen  write  from 
right  to  left,  [nto  this  court,  as  its  inmates  saunter  about, 
t'ome  friends,  peddlers,  and  the  water-carriers  clanking 
the  tin  cups  which  nuike  known  their  approach.  Here, 
as  in  all  Eastern  lands,  the  water-carrier  is  a  very  im];or- 
tant  factor  in  life.  The  streets  even  are  sprinkled  by  a 
man  witli  a  pig-skin  or  other  animal  covering  filled  with 
water,  from  which  gushes  a  feeble  stream  upon  the  liot, 
dusty  path.  In  the  fore  court  of  this  same  mosque,  the 
less  advanced  scholars,  primaries  so  to  speak,  sit  in  groups 
learning  to  read  and  to  write  on  leaden  talilets  texts  from 
the  Koran.  On  tlie  whole,  one  can  but  ask  in  this  strange 
land,  wliat  next?  The  gigantic  remains  of  the  earlier 
races,  the  vigor  and  fierceness  of  the  Arab  dominion,  are 
to  be  succeeded  by  what?  Or  are  the  influences  of 
Christian  civilization,  as  develoj>c(l  through  the  mission- 
ary efforts  of  our  day.  ((uietly  to  leaven  this  (^Id  lum|i  with 
new  life? 

Cairo  lias  borne  many  names, — "Tlie  (7rand,""  ''City 
of  the  Oalij)l)s.""  etc.,  but  that  which  it  inherited  as  the 
successor  of  Mem[»his  must  always  be  most  significant, 
•' City  of  the  I'yramids;""  and  to  them,  inseparably  con- 
nected with  vvcry  view  of  the  city,  we  must  jtay  our 
respects  before  pushing  on  to  the  Holy  I^and. 


CHAPTER     XL. 

TO    THE    PYRAMIDS. THE    SUEZ    CANAL. 

With  our  carriage,  courier,  and  driver,  we  start  in  the 
fresh  air  of  the  early  morning  over  the  iron  bridge  to  the 
island  Ghezeevh,  and  thence  across  the  western  channel 
of  the  Nile  by  a  beautiful  road  shaded  by  trees  which 
have  been  planted  within  a  few  years  past,  the  khedive's 
castle  and  gardens,  out  into  the  fertile  fields.  Half  naked 
laborers  are  at  work  in  the  soil,  buffaloes  wading  in  the 
muddy  pools  or  shallow  lakes  made  by  irrigation,  herons 
stand  in  a  meditative  mood  or  flap  their  long  wings  in 
easy  flight,  and  the  Pyramids  are  before  us  with  their  out- 
lines well  defined  on  the  morning  sky.  After  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  it  begins  to  be  very  hot,  the  road  which 
rises  toward  the  plain  on  which  the  pyramids  stand  is 
■covered  with  sand,  despite  a  wall  built  to  keep  it  ofl',  and 
with  a  sharp  turn  we  stop  in  front  of  the  largest,  known 
as  that  of  Cheops.  To  say  that  its  l)ase  covers  13|  acres, 
and  that  its  height  when  perfect  was  482  feet,  are  facts  very 
difiicult  to  comprehend,  and  even  here  on  the  spot  the 
first  im})ression  is  one  of  disa})pointnient.  But  when  at 
the  distance  of  thirty  miles,  through  the  clear  atmosphere 
of  this  rainless  land  the  view  rather  increases  than  dimin- 
ishes, then  we  begin  to  be  astonished.  On  the  north  side 
in  the  shade  are  donkey  boys,  orange  women,  and  a 
swarm  of  Bedouins  liungry  for  backsheesh.  When 
Fredei'ick  was  here  five  years  ago  he  did  not  attemj)t  the 
ascent:  to-dav  lie  told  our  drag-oman  that  if  he  would  y-et 
the  requisite  aid,  nuike  them  [)romise  not  to  antioy  by  de- 
manding backsheesh,  and  see  him  safely  up  and  down,  that 


CLIMBING    THE    PYRAMIDS.  419 

he  would  pay  them  well.  It  was  declared  on  the  part  of 
the  Bedouin  utterly  impossible  to  get  along  with  less  than 
five, —  one  for  each  arm  to  pull,  two  to  push  after,  and 
one  to  carry  a  bottle  of  water.  A  sixth,  who  called  him- 
self doctor  and  acted  as  leg  rubber,  insisted  on  going,  and 
did ;  but  as  F.  entirely  repudiated  his  professional  services 
he  received  no  pay.  The  steps,  as  they  are  called,  usually 
were  about  half  way  up  the  breast  in  height,  and  the 
crafty  Bedouins,  having  picked  up  a  little  English,  now 
improvised  a  chant  as  they  pulled  and  pushed,  the  burden 
whereof  was  this  :  — 

"  Goo — ood  man,  good  man, 
Pay — us — well ;  —  pay — us — well ; 
Give — us  sovereign  ;  —  give  us  sovereign  ; 
Hard — zvork ! .'  —  hard — ivork  /  /  " 

And  this  with  the  indescribable  Arab  drawl  was  repeated 
over  and  over  again  in  monotonous  unison  as  they  worked 
their  way  to  the  summit  and  back  again. 

With  all  this  aid  and  with  the  cheerful  song  it  was  a 
very  severe  task.  The  heat  was  intense,  and  the  guides 
really  had  to  earn  their  pay.  But  the  view  was  wonderful. 
To  the  east  along  the  banks  of  the  Nile  an  emerald  strip 
fringed  witli  trees,  under  which  nestled  villages  and  ham- 
lets, the  lateen  sails  of  the  numerous  boats  moving  to  and 
fro,  the  mosques  and  minarets  of  Cairo  at  the  foot  of 
Mount  Mokattam  surrounded  by  gardens  and  trees,  and 
the  canals  conveying  the  life  of  all  this  fertility  to  the 
soil,  —  all  those  contributed  to  make  a  scone  not  easily 
forgotten.  Westward  the  tombs,  the  limestone  clilis,  and 
the  sand,  and  here  and  tlioro  in  the  yellow  desert  eighty 
pyramids.  One  peculiarity  about  the  tombs  and  other 
vast  structures  is  that  they  were  built  out  of  reach  of  the 
rise  of  the  Nile,  and  of  course  on  land  worthless  for  cul- 
tivation. Arable  land  to  the  old  Egyptians  meant  money, 
taxable    property,   revenue.       F.    not   only  achieved   the 


420  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

ascent,  but  resolved  to  see  the  whole  thing  through,  pene- 
trated to  the  interior,  which  was,  owing  to  the  stifling 
heat  and  dust,  the  more  disagreeable  feat  ot  the  two.  He 
came  out  as  nearly  wilted  as  one  cares  to  be,  literally 
bathed  in  perspiration,  A  cup  of  coffee  and  a  careful 
wrap  of  shawls  as  he  took  his  place  in  the  carriage  soon 
restored  his  equanimity,  and  we  reached  our  hotel  at  Cairo 
tired  but  satisfied  w^ith  our  experience  of  the  pyramid. 

It  is  now  known  with  reasonable  certainty  that  each 
king,  as  he  began  his  reign,  began  also  the  mausoleum, 
which  would,  it  was  hoped,  forever  conceal  his  remains, 
or  at  least  till  after  4,000  years,  w^hen  the  soul  was  believed 
to  rejoin  the  body.  Each  year  added  to  its  height  and 
circumference,  and  at  whatever  period  death  occurred  the 
pyramid  ceased  to  grow.  The  steps  which  resulted  from 
the  manner  of  construction  were  then  filled  in  with  a 
{)olished  casing  of  stone  beginning  at  the  top,  making  one 
perfectly  smooth  surface  from  top  to  bottom.  Until  this 
outer  case  was  broken  away,  of  course  no  ascent  was  pos- 
sible. The  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  which  F.  ascended,  is  be- 
lieved to  be  5,000  years  old.  Xothing  short  of  an  earth- 
quake will  probably  ever  disturb  it.  The  sphinx,  which 
is  not  far  from  the  great  pyramid  and  which  in  these  later 
years  has  been  excavated  about,  is  fouixl  to  be  cut  from 
living  rock,  tliat  is  from  the  natural  ledge,  and  is  sixty- 
four  feet  from  the  paws  to  tlie  crown  of  the  head.  Orig- 
inally a  Higljt  of  steps  led;^  u})  it,  so  that  its  height  must 
have  been  greater  still  from  the  |)lateau,  as  it  was  before 
the  desert  encroached  upon  it.  The  Arabs  call  it  the 
-'  Father  of  Terrors." 

In  [laying  the  guides  F.  was  as  good  as  his  word,  and 
we  afterwards  learned  that  they  trumpted  the  fame  of  his 
munificence  to  every  comer,  and  told  how  that  "  goo — ood  " 
man  had  rewarded  their  exertions.  It  is  extremely  doubt- 
ful, however,  if  he  found  any  imitators. 


THE    SUEZ    CANAL.  421 

On  tlie  8th  of  March  F.  left  Cairo  by  rail  for  Huoz, 
wishing  to  go  through  the  whole  length  of  the  canal, 
while  I  with  others  of  our  I^ile  party  started  for  Isniaila, 
where  he  [iroposed  to  rejoin  us.  In  the  vicinity  of  Suez 
is  the  i)lace  generally  considered  to  he  that  where  the 
Israelites  crossed ;  before  the  construction  of  the  break- 
water it  was  possible  to  cross  at  low  water,  but  tlie  tide 
rises  (juickly  and  with  danger.  The  clitfsare  now  shown 
where  the  song  of  Miriam  was  heard.  Ordinary  ])asseii- 
gers  over  the  canal  have  to  go  by  night  as  the  great  mer- 
chant shii)S  have  the  right  of  A\ay  in  the  day  and  tie  up 
at  night.  The  canal  is  100  miles  long,  26  feet  deep,  and 
from  75  to  800  feet  wide,  the  greatest  width  occurring  in 
some  of  the  lakes  which  it  connects,  called  the  Bitter 
lakes,  Lake  Temsah,  and  jjakc  Mensaleh.  Isnuiilia  is 
situated  about  midway  on  the  canal  on  the  shore  of  Lake 
Temsah,  and  is  sup}»lied  with  fresh  watei-  from  the  Xile, 
and  sprang  u})  from  the  necessities  of  the  De  T^esseps 
Company.  De  L.  has  here  a  farm  and  residence,  and  the 
ex-khedive  a  palace.  Lake  Mensaleh  near  Suez  is  one  of 
the  most  ])rolific  hunting  grounds  or  waters  the  world  has 
ever  seen,  the  abundance  of  water-fowl  and  of  tish  being 
enormous.  From  Ismailia  wc  all  went  to  Port  Said  by  boat 
and  stopped  there  a  day.  The  great  feature  of  Port  Said 
is  the  breakwater,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  which  had  to  be 
built  for  the  protection  of  the  harbor.  It  was  fearfully 
hot,  and  we  were  glad  to  take  refuge  on  the  little  steamer 
of  the  Austrian  Lloyds  for  Joppa. 


CHAPTER    XLI 


THE    HOLY    LAND. JAFFA. 


As  WE  approached  this  ancient  city  after  a  very  smooth 
and  pleasant  voyage  free  from  the  desert  heat  and  dust, 
its  white  walls  glittering  on  the  liillsides  made  a  very 
imposing  appearance.  But  alas !  it  was  too  much  like 
the  whited  sepulchres,  outwardly  res[»lendent  but  within 
dirty  and  filthy  beyond  description.  The  landing,  fre- 
(}uently  dangerous,  was  this  time  achieved  in  small  boats 
with  comparative  ease.  We  were,  moreover,  rescued  from 
the  clutches  of  the  barbarians  who  clamored  for  our  hag:- 
gage  and  backsheesh  by  the  kind  offices  of  Mr.  Floyd,  a 
gentleman  from  Maine,  who  was  leader  in  a  colonization 
scheme  in  this  region.  This  old  port,  from  whence  Jonah 
sailed,  and  where  Peter  dwelt  with  Simon  the  tanner,  has 
little  to  commend  it  to  our  interest  otherwise.  Its  gar- 
dens, however,  are  famous  and  its  oranges  delicious^ 
They  are  large,  oblong,  thick  skinned,  very  sweet,  and 
liave  no  seeds.  As  they  do  not  bear  transportation,  one 
must  go  to  Jafta  to  get  them.  Tlie  streets  are  very  nar- 
row and  stee}»,  all  up  and  down  ;  but  there  is  an  occasional 
level  space  on  tlie  roof  of  a  house,  and  from  that  said  to 
luivc  been  inhaljited  Ity  Simon  tlic  tanner  is  a  line  view  of 
the  country  and  of  the  Mediterranean. 

From  our  hotel  we  started  for  Jerusalem  in  wagons. 
The  road  is  rough,  but  somewhat  improved  since  our 
former  tri]».  For  a  few  miles  out  the  way  is  bordered  by 
orange  groves  fenced  by  liedges  of  cactus,  and  then  we 
enter  an  extensive  j>lain  so  thickly  covered  with  flowers 
that  hardly  a  leaf  was  visible.     Conspicuous  among  tliem 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM.  423 

WIX8  the  cyclamen,  and  a  pink  flower  which  may  liave 
been  the  Rose  of  Sharon.  We  stop  at  Ramleh,  fifteen 
miles  or  so  out,  a  town  distinguished  in  the  times  of  tlie 
crusaders,  which  has  an  interesting  tower  built  after 
the  Saracen  order  of  architecture  about  1300  A.  IJ.,  accord- 
ing to  an  inscription  over  the  entrance.  It  is  tiiought, 
however,  that  the  tablet  with  the  date  was  inserted  much 
later  than  it  was  built,  by  invaders  who  wished  the  credit 
of  its  erection.  Here  we  spent  the  night  and  slept  on  the 
house-top,  a  row  of  little  rooms  opeiiing  on  a  l»road,  flat 
roof  of  the  inn.  Like  all  travelers  in  this  region  we 
brought  along  our  food,  the  inn  furnishing  room  oidy. 
Our  next  day  lunch  was  taken  under  a  fig  tree  in  the  val- 
ley of  Ajalon,  where  floshua  commanded  the  moon  to  stand 
still  while  the  battle  raged.  Here  we  were  surrounded 
by  localities  made  famous  and  familiar  by  Scripture; 
Ramah,  Gibeah,  Kirjath-jearim,  and  Mizpch  stood  round 
about  us.  As  the  noontide  beat  began  to  weai-  off,  we 
took  up  our  line  of  marcli.  Hougher  grew  the  roads, 
inore  dislocating  tlie  motion  of  our  carriage,  brown  and 
sere  the  tare  of  the  desolate  hills,  and  at  eveiw  new  turn 
where  the  opening  defile  beckoned  us  ()ii  we  looked  in 
vain  with  weary  eyes  to  see  Jerusalem.  F]»  and  yet  up 
we  slowly  move  until  at  last  the  Mount  of  Olives  and  the 
city  greet  our  vision.  We  push  on  to  gain  the  shelter  of 
a  new  hotel  outside  the  walls,  which  has  been  erected  since 
our  former  visit.  Then  we  stopjicd  at  the  Hotel  Mt.  Ziou 
near  the  Temjile  inclosui'e,  but  as  we  iiuuU'  a  very  ex- 
baustive  exploration  of  the  city  then,  we  now  only  made 
a  l)rief  visit,  seeing  again  the  Mos(jue  of  Omai-,  the  Mount 
of  Olives,  (iarden  of  (ietlisemene,  and  tbe  wailiug-jtlace 
of  the  Jews  outside  tbe  walls.  We  also  saw  the  results 
of  further  explorations,  bringing  to  light  what  are  called 
Sol(~)mon's  stables,  and  pillars  remaining  from  Pilate's 
Judirment  ball. 


424  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

On  the  morning  of  March  14  we  started  out  quite  a 
caravan  of  our  own  on  an  expedition  to  the  Jordan  and 
the  Dead  sea.  All  told  we  were  quite  a  respectable  num- 
ber. Saddle  horses  and  donkeys  there  were  six,  each 
w^ith  a  driver  or  attendant.  Mr.  Floyd,  betore  mentioned, 
a  soldier  ornamented  with  pistols,  knives,  and  swords 
wherever  one  could  be  hung  on  to  him,  as  a  guard,  and 
our  courier.  The  guard  with  grim  swagger  marched  in 
the  van.  It  was  a  beautiful  moi'iiing  as  we  went  forth 
from  St.  Stephen's  gate  over  the  brook  Kedron,  past 
Gethsemane  and  up  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and  sf>  on  to 
Bethany.  It  seems  impossible  that  one  should  ever  go 
over  this  route  without  feelings  of  the  deepest  interest. 
While  time  and  tradition  both  seem  to  have  conspired  to 
bury  the  mere  bodily  foot[trints  of  our  Saviour,  yet  this 
is  the  sky  under  which  He  walked,  tlie  mountains  on 
which  He  looked,  and  back  there  as  we  turn  in  our  way, 
on  that  very  spot  stood  the  city  that  cast  Him  out.  The 
tombs  of  the  prophets  are  there  still,  away  to  our  left. 

Soon  we  come  to  Bethany,  the  home  of  Mary  and 
Martha,  and  they  point  out  to  us  what  is  called  the  tomb 
of  Lazarus.  We  lunched  at  a  [)lace  said  to  be  the  site  of 
the  inn  where  the  good  Samaritan  brought  the  wounded 
Jew  on  his  own  beast  and  paid  for  his  care.  However 
this  nuiy  l)e,  we  are  certainly  on  the  road  to  Jericho,  and 
not  unlikely  to  fall  among  thieves.  Our  courier  provided 
us  a  most  excellent  lunch  of  chicken,  l)read,  fruit,  Jaifa 
oranges,  and  wine.  Refreshed  and  strengthened  we 
pushed  on,  reaching  the  brook  Cherith,  which  was  s\\-ollen 
to  (juite  a  considerable  stream.  It  is  said  to  be  in  the 
AVady  Kelt,  an  almost  inacessible  ravine  full  of  clitl's  and 
caves,  near  where  we  crossed,  that  Elijah  was  concealed. 
There  is  some  dispute  about  the  locality  of  tlie  brook,  l)ut 
there  were  certaiidy  ravens  enough  living  al)Out  liei'e  to 
have  }>rovided  liini  with  abundance  of  bread.      Here,  in 


TO   THE   JORDAN.  425 

this  brook,  we  lieard  a  very  auiiuated  chorus  of  frotJ^s,  tlie 
only  one  we  heard  in  our  travels,  l^igj'pt  being  apparently 
free  from  them.  Of  course  they  i)ointed  out  to  us  the 
locality  of  the  cave  where  Elijah  lay  concealed,  and  no 
doubt  some  convent,  rich  in  relics,  can  show  a  dry  crust, 
if  not  a  stuffed  raven,  bel(>ni>MM<>:  to  the  same  [teriod.  The 
fact  is,  that  our  general  impressions  connected  with  Scrij»- 
ture  localities  are  such  as  to  confirm  our  faith,  but  when 
we  (k'sccnd  to  particulars  for  which  there  can  l>e  no  war- 
rant the  effect  is  reversed.  And  then  it  seems  that  this 
belief  in  externals,  which  one  can  sec  and  handle,  serves 
to  deaden  s[)ii-itual  imiu'cssions.  W  these  things  were 
needful  to  keep  alive  our  faith,  we  may  l)e  sure  the  de- 
struction would  not  ha\e  been  so  entire.  In  our  further 
route  to  Jericho  we  came  to  the  fountains  of  Elisha,  which 
the  prophet  healed  and  caused  to  become  sweet.  The 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  C'herith  and  of  the  fountains  of 
Elisha  is  irrigated  from  tliem  so  as  to  })roduce  cro}is. 

From  here  we  nuide  a  detour  through  the  hot  j»lain 
which  lies  at  the  foot  of  tlie  barren  hills  we  have  been 
descending,  and  \isited  the  site  of  that  ancient  dericho 
whose  walls  fell  at  tlii'  blowing  of  the  rams"  horns.  Xo 
vestige  of  it  now  remains,  the  ruins  visible  evidently  be- 
longing to  a  later  epocli.  The  modern  ^•ilh^ge  of  that 
name  consists  of  not  more  than  fifty  or  sixty  houses  built 
low  and  thatched  with  any  refuse  vegetable  mattei'  at 
hand  upon  which  eai'th  is  heajted.  The  only  noteworthy 
object  is  a  s<piai'e  tower  thirty  oi'  thirty-five  feet  high, 
which  is  called  the  house  of  Zacchens.  Xear  this  the 
Ilussians  have  Imilt  a  convent  and  hos[)ice  witliin  a  dozen 
or  more  years.  Here  we  found  the  sheik  of  the  Jordan 
valley  who,  having  been  introduced  to  us  and  learning 
that  E.  had  like  liimself  been  governor  of  a  ju-ovince, 
straightway  })ai(l  us  every  attention.  lie  had,  it  seems, 
been  a  most  luited  robl)er,  levyiiiii'  triluiteon  all  the  region  : 


426  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

he  carried  seven  bullets  which  had  taken  lodgings  in  his 
body  during  his  predatory  warfare,  and  was  marked  with 
slashes  and  salier  cuts  innumerable.  The  government  at 
last  was  glad  to  bribe  him  by  giving  him  what  it  could 
not  take  from  him.  He  had  laid  up  money,  and  was  edu- 
cating a  son  in  Paris.  He  was  a  tine  specimen  physically, 
and  most  su]K'rbly  mounted  on  the  fleetest  of  Arab  steeds 
on  which  he  went  plunging  and  caracoling  about  us.  He 
gave  us  his  personal  escort  to  the  Jordan  and  also  procured 
us  entrance  to  the  Ivussian  hospice  at  Jericho.  To  myself 
he  was  yt'ry  attentive  and  gallant.  Once  when  my  horse 
came  near  being  stampeded  I  screamed  involuntarily, 
when  he  rushed  to  my  aid  and  fairly  caught  me  in  his 
arms  as  I  came  near  sliding  from  the  saddle.  At  the 
Jordan,  also,  he  Uiiively  offered  his  assistance  as  I  bathed 
my  feet.  When  our  caravan  moved  lie  rode  in  front,  his 
eyes  restlessly  exploring  every  shruV)  and  rranny  of  the 
path  for  lurking  foe  or  hostile  Bedouin. 

We  wei'c  rather  disappointed  at  the  swiftness  and  tur- 
l>u]ence  of  the  muddy  current  that  swept  through  the 
steep  banks  of  tlio  Jordan.  Certain  it  is  that  only  by 
miracle  could  the  Israelites  have  crossed  at  this  point. 
However,  having  come  thus  far  F.  decided  to  bathe  in  its 
waters,  a  project  whi<'h  he  carried  out  at  no  small  risk 
and  with  much  resulting  inconvenience.  Happening  to 
wound  Ills  foot  on  the  rough,  stony  Itottom,  it  l)ecame  in- 
tensely |»ainful,  and  there  was  ntjt  tlie  means  of  any  sur- 
gical ajtiiliaiice  f  >r  miles.  Xot  a  reed  or  twig.  (U-  stick  of 
more  sul»stance  than  tlie  (-actus  to  twist  into  any  means  of 
relieving  the  wounded  limb  in  the  saddle,  so  that  the  re- 
turn to  Jerusalem  was  not  altogetlier  so  agreeable.  There 
was,  however,  no  jiermanent  injury. 

This  was  the  place  in  Jordan,  whicli  tradition  assigns 
as  tlie  spot  where  Jesus  was  baptized  of  John.  The 
chores  on  tliis  side  slo])e  gradually  down,  and  oti  the  oppo- 


BETHANY  AND  BETHLEHEM.  427 

8ite  are  forbidding  bluffs.  These  characteristics,  varying 
from  one  side  to  the  other,  prevail  through  its  course. 
From  Jericho  to  the  Dead  sea  it  was  about  four  hours' 
ride.  Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  dreary  and  desolate 
than  the  sight  of  this  l)itter  lake.  Its  waters  look  ])right 
and  glittering  in  the  sun,  but  they  are  unmoved  by  the 
wind  and  are  very  bitter  to  the  taste.  We  spent  the  night 
at  Jericho,  and  in  the  morning  started  again  for  Jerusa- 
lem, and  on  our  way  the  landsca[>e  revealed  to  us  many  a 
familiar  site,  —  familtar  at  least  by  name, —  as  of  the 
mountains  of  Moab  and  Edom,  Mount  Xebo,  Pisgah,  and 
the  Mount  of  Temptation,  and  on  the  east  the  mountains 
of  Gilead  and  Bashan.  We  lunched  at  the  brook  Cherith. 
Near  us  were  ruins  of  an  immense  aqueduct  crossing  the 
brook  more  than  sixty  feet  above  the  l)ottom.  It  once 
sup})lied  water  froju  a  fountain  a  hundred  feet  higher  still, 
the  canal  from  which  is  still  to  l)e  traced.  As  we  came 
nearer  t<^  Jerusalem  the  jjatchcs  of  growing  grain  in  fer- 
tile spots  relieved  the  otherwise  barren  cliffs,  and  at  the 
base  of  the  hill  ascending  to  Bethany  we  dismounted,  let 
our  horses  drink  at  the  fountain  Kii-shcmish,  where  are 
remains  of  a  ruined  cistern.  Tradition  has  it  that  our 
Lord  and  his  disciples  often  drank  at  this  fountain. 

I  walked  on  u[i  the  hill  to  Bethany.  The  Arabs,  who 
are  its  only  inhabitants,  call  it  El'Azariyeh,  or  the  village 
of  Lazarus.  What  is  called  the  gra\e  of  Lazarus  is  the 
oidy  o])ieet  j»ointed  out  to  us  with  claims  of  identity  with 
that  named  in  Scripture.  TIjc  house  of  Mary  and  Martha 
onee  had  a  convent  built  on  its  supposed  site,  l)ut  these 
buildings  have  been  long  destroyed.  I^>ethany,  to  every 
believer  in  tin'  story  of  C'hrist,  is  a  beautiful  luune,  but 
there  is  nothing  in  the  forlorn  eluster  of  dwellings  on  this 
hillside  to  bring  back  the  old  }»icture,  the  home  that  was 
hallowed  by  his  footsteps.  But  the  seenery  is  all  im- 
pressive.    Over  this  road  to  Jerusalem   crossing  a  s])ur  of 


428  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

Olivet  He  must  have  walked.  Next  in  interest  outside 
of  the  great  city  are  Bethlehem  and  the  field  of  the 
shepherds.  This  is  something  less  than  two  hours'  ride 
from  Jerusalem,  and  even  apart  from  the  great  interest 
conferred  by  its  history  is  a  picturesque  place.  The 
hills  gradually  rising  to  the  summit  crowned  by  the  con- 
vents and  Church  of  the  Nativity  are  beautiful,  with  vine- 
yards, fig,  olive,  and  pomegranate  trees,  while  the  fields  in 
the  valley  below  are  green  with  springing  wheat.  In 
those  fields  Ruth  gleaned  in  harvest  time,  and  somewhere 
in  this  region  the  shepherds  watched  their  flocks  when 
the  sonof  of  the  angels  was  lieard  and  the  birth  of  the 
Saviour  proclaimed.  Here,  also,  David  was  born  and 
tended  his  father's  sheep  when  a  boy.  From  here,  with 
boyish  patriotism,  he  went  uj»  to  the  army  to  see  his  broth- 
ers, and  slew  the  giant  Philistine.  The  Church  of  the 
Nativity  is  very  ancient,  the  basilica,  erected  by  the 
Empress  Helena,  mother  of  Constantiiie,  being  clearly 
the  oldest  Christian  church  in  existence.  Its  date  is  327 
A.  D.  As  early  as  the  first  half  of  the  second  century 
the  birthplace  of  Christ  was  spoken  of  as  being  in  a  cave 
near  the  village  of  Bethlehem.  The  tradition  was  not 
likely  to  liave  erred  in  so  remarkable  a  matter  for  three 
or  four  hundred  years.  We  descend  l)y  a  narrow  stair- 
way from  the  church  to  a  low  cave,  where  upon  a  marble 
slab  in  the  floor  is  fixed  a  star  with  the  words,  ''  Here 
Jesus  Christ  was  born  of  the  \'irgin  Mary."  Around  it 
hang  sixteen  silver  lamps  Avhicli  are  kejit  constantly 
burning. 

About  a  mile  from  Bethleheni  we  }>ass  the  tomb  of 
Rachel,  a  spot  about  which  there  is  nc>  disjmte.  It  is 
cctvered  with  a  small  domed  tower  of  Moliammedan  con- 
struction. "And  Rachel  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  way 
to  Ep.  ratli,  which  is  Bethlehem.  And  Jacob  set  a  pillar 
upon  her  grave;  that  is  the  pillar  of  Rachers  grave  unto 


POOLS    OF    SOLOMON.  429 

this  day."     So  the  pillar  was  there  in  the  time  of  Moses, 
and  how  much  longer  no  history  tells  us. 

One  day  as  we  rode  about  Jerusalem  on  the  outside  we 
visited  the  Pools  of  Solomon.  They  are  about  six  miles 
from  the  eity  and  are  in  a  good  state  of  repair,  though 
not  used  as  they  must  have  been  once.  There  are  three 
of  them  capable  of  liolding  in  all  nearly  nine  and  a  half 
million  gallons,  and  having  a  superficial  area  of  six  and 
one  fourth  acres.  The  largest  is  fifty  feet  deep,  and  the 
otlier  two  twenty-live.  They  are  connected  by  a  subter- 
raneali  passage  with  a  fountain,  which  also,  independently 
of  the  pools,  supplies  water  once  used  for  the  temple 
service,  and  for  Bethlehem.  Whether  Solomon's  or  not, 
they  are  (piite  worth}-  of  his  name.  These  pools  are  partly 
cut  in  the  rock  and  partly  built  of  stone  masonry.  They 
are  supposed  once  to  have  been  surrounded  by  gardens 
and  vines.  Xorth  of  Jerusalem  are  the  tombs  of  the 
kings  and  of  the  judges,  which  we  saw.  If  we  concede 
that  the  Jewish  people  to-day  are  "  peeled  and  scattered  " 
in  accordance  with  iirojJiecy,  the  ruins  which  yet  exist 
make  it  no  less  certain  that  they  were  once  a  nation  full 
of  enter])rise  and  ^•ig()r,  and  those  who  deny  the  truth  of 
the  Sc'ri[»ture  narrative  have  many  more  unaccountable 
facts  to  run  against  than  those  who  admit  it. 

On  the  day  that  we  visited  the  Pools  of  Solomon  we 
took  our  way  tlirough  the  (joldcn  (nitc,  through  the  val- 
ky  of  rk'liosliaphat  and  of  Ilinnoni,  passing  the  tombs  of 
A]>salom,  Zachariali,  and  St.  James,  and  the  wt'll  of  En- 
rogel.  Many  other  scenes  we  call  to  memory  in  and 
about  the  holy  city  which  we  took  great  ])leasure  and  in- 
terest in  visiting,  as  Gethscmane,  the  [)Ool  of  Siloam  and 
of  Bethesda,  the  Sepulchre,  the  Via  Dolorosa,  and  the 
extensive  excavations  in  ]irogress  al)Out  the  site  of  the 
ancient  foundations.  Also  <juite  as  wonderful  in  their 
way  as  anything  to  be  seen  are  the  quarries  under  the 


430  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

city.  Here  the  stone  was  hewn  and  fitted  doubtless  for 
the  temple,  and  the  excavations  are  vast  enough  to  have 
built  the  entire  modern  city  and  have  much  left.  We 
enter  by  a  hole  near  the  Damascus  gate.  The  height  is 
from  ten  to  thirty  feet,  and  rough,  irregular  supports  were 
left  to  the  roof.  It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  two  acres  in  ex- 
tent. We  could  not  help  thinking  that  here  some  of  the 
workmen  of  Solomon  may  have  plied  the  hammer  and 
chisel.  There  is  one  huge  block  left  here  as  it  was 
finished. 

On  the  2d  of  April  we  started  on  our  return  to  Jafta, 
and  lunched  at  Emmaus.  Nothing  now  remains  to  indi- 
cate what  the  place  may  have  been  in  the  time  of  Christ. 
There  are  ruins  of  a  church  and  fortifications  dating  from 
the  times  of  the  crusaders,  and  it  is  said  tf>  have  ])een  re- 
built by  the  Romans  early  in  the  third  century.  From 
here  to  Ramleh  and  on,  the  route  is  throua^h  a  reo:ion  of 
delightful  fertility.  The  next  station  of  interest  was 
Lydda,  from  which  place  Peter  was  called  to  Joppa  on 
account  of  the  death  of  Dorcas.  It  is  a  village  situated 
amid  beautiful  gardens,  groves  of  palm,  fig,  olive,  mul- 
berry, and  pomegranate  trees.  There  are  some  ruins  of  a 
fine  church,  the  usual  mosque,  and  a  rather  busy,  thriving 
population.  It  is  on  this  route  also,  somewhere  in  the 
vicinity  of  Emmaus,  that  tradition  assigns  the  field  where 
David  killed  Goliath.  They  even  showed  us  the  brook 
whence  came  the  smooth  stone  that  brought  the  Philistine 
low.  As  we  near  Joppa,  I  am  reminded  of  our  rece[»ti<>n 
there  five  years  ago  by  a  certain  eccentric  Russian  baron, 
very  old  and  very  wealthy.  lie  was  made  known  to  us 
by  Mr.  Shapira,  the  Jewish  dealer  in  Eastern  wares  and 
manuscripts  at  Jerusalem.  He  (the  baron)  was  an  enthu- 
siastic naturalist  and  had  a  fine  show  of  specimens,  ])ot- 
tled,  dritul,  and  stufted,  with  fishes  and  other  a<puitic  crea- 
tures in  tanks  and  aquariums;  in  sliort,  he  was  a  virtuoso 


THE    RUSSIAN    BARON'.  431 

of  the  old  school,  and  had,  moreover,  a  young  and  fascinat- 
ing wife  of  whom  he  was  said  to  be  jealous,  and  so  had 
taken  her  to  this  out  of  the  way  place  to  live,  as  being  free 
from  rivals.  They  both,  however,  received  us  with  every 
appearance  of  cordiality.  Madame,  the  baroness,  was  ex- 
tremely vivacious,  well  educated,  intelligent,  and  a  fine 
musician.  They  occupied  a  splendid  suite  of  rooms  at 
the  hotel,  and  gave  much  money  to  the  poor.  He  was  at 
that  time  beginning  the  erection  of  a  hospital  for  free  use 
of  the  poor  and  sick.  On  our  return  this  second  time  to 
Jaffa,  the  hospital  was  finished  and  they  were  residing  in 
one  wing.  The  lady  appeared  delighted  to  see  us,  and  re- 
ceived us  like  old  friends.  They  gave  us  an  entertainment 
at  their  house,  and  she  especially  delighted  us  with  "  Sweet 
Home  "  played  on  a  magnificent  piano,  and  many  other 
pieces  [»erformed  with  all  the  grace  of  a  finished  musician. 
I  was  amused  as  she  moved  about  her  rooms  to  hear  her 
constant  calls  upon  Abdallah,  her  devoted  servant,  not 
less  in  years  than  his  master ;  he  was  indefatigable  in 
meeting  her  requirements.  At  the  hotel  we  were  some 
distance  from  the  port  and  the  baron  o2ered  us  his  horses, 
only  one  of  which  was  gentle  enough  for  a  lady's  use,  so 
when  we  left  I  mounted,  and  a  servant  walked  by  my  side 
through  the  steep,  narrow  streets  to  the  water.  A  fiercer 
steed,  such  as  becomes  a  Bedouin  pasha,  was  brought  foj* 
F.,  but  with  \\ise  discretion  he  concluded  that  it  was  safer 
getting  down  hill  on  foot. 

The  Sunday  before,  we  attended  service  at  the  school  ot 
the  American  niission.  and  were  mucli  pleased  with  the 
appearance  of  the  work,  and  on  a  fresh  and  lovely  Men- 
day  morning  took  our  leave  of  the  ancient  Joppa  l)y  the 
Austrian  steamer  for  IJeyrout. 

Our  morning  voyage  northward,  on  the  blue  Medi- 
terranean, along  the  coast  of  Samaria  and  Galilee,  w;is 
very    pleasant.     We  passed  in  sight  of  Cesarea,  Moui.t 


432  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

Carmel,  Tyre  and  Sidon.  At  the  foot  of  Mount  Carmel, 
whose  bold  headland  forms  the  southern  shore  of  the  Bay 
of  Acre,  we  stopped  several  hours.  Frc^m  Mount  Carmel 
is  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  sea  and  surrounding 
country.  We  did  not  visit  the  Carmelite  convent  on  the 
top,  but  saw  the  monks  of  that  ilk.  We  had  previously 
met  them  in  various  places,  and  found  some  of  them 
intelligent  and  agreeable  peo]>le.  We  reached  Beyrout  at 
7  P.  M.,  and  were  driven  at  once  to  the  Oriental  hotel. 
The  situation  of  Beyrout  cannot  well  be  more  beautiful, 
and  it  justifies  the  wisdom  of  the  American  Board  in 
making  it  their  base  of  operations  in  Syria.  We  visited 
the  Bible  house,  where  all  the  printing  for  Eastern  lands 
is  done,  also,  on  invitation  from  Dr.  Post  and  Mr.  Bliss, 
the  Syrian  College  and  the  Fenude  Seminary.  The  Mis- 
sion church  is  a  vei'y  neat  and  tasty  affair,  and  the  ap- 
}>earance  of  things  was  in  the  highest  degree  compli- 
mentary to  the  efficiency  of  the  business  skill  and  tact 
of  the  managers.  There  is  now  a  fine  road  across  Mount 
Lebanon  to  Damascus  by  diligence,  and  a  small  army  of 
men  constantly  cm])loyc(l  in  keei>ing  the  route  in  repair. 
For  this  journey  we  took  an  early  start  one  day,  rising 
at  half-]»ast  four.  We  ai-e  )-api(lly  whirled  along  through 
a  fertile  region,  —  wheat  fields,  \ineyards,  tig  and  mul- 
l)errv  trees  I)or(lering  the  way  on  either  side.  We  have 
fresli  animals  every  hour,  and  so  our  horses  are  at  their 
best.  As  we  rise  into  the  mountain  region,  there  are 
tine  villas,  where  the  rich  citizens  of  l)eyrout  fiy  from  the 
summer  heat.  We  were  a  little  over  thirteen  hours  in 
making  the  sixty  miles  to  Damascus,  including  stops,  and 
about  V)  V.  M.  reached  the  Hotel  Demetri,  well  known  to 
all  travelers  that  way.  ])ainascus  is  not  so  fortunate  as 
to  have  esca])ed  the  changes  wliich  have  befallen  other 
places,  but  renuiins  much  as  it  was  when  the  Apostle 
Paul  was  struck  down  at  its  gate,  and  the  valley  of  the 


DAMASCUS.  433 

Abana  and  Pharpar  is  charming  enough  to  have  war- 
ranted the  reply  of  ISTaaman  when  the  prophet  bade  him 
wash  in  the  Jordan,  It  was  an  ancient  city  in  the  days 
of  Abraham,  whose  servant  Eliezer  dwelt  there.  Babylo- 
nians, Persians,  Romans,  Saracens,  and  Turks  in  turn  have 
j)Ossessed  it,  and  it  was  for  three  centuries  the  Syrian  capi- 
tal, and  at  one  time  was  a  Christian  bishopi'ic.  To-day  it 
is  flourishing  still.  The  soil  is  abundantly  fruitful ;  apri- 
cots, dates,  almonds,  and  iigs  abound.  All  the  character- 
istic traits  of  Syrian  life  are  seen  here  at  their  best ;  there 
is  no  modern  quarter,  but  a  genuine  flavor  of  Oriental 
life.  Tlie  Abana  is  a  clear,  rushing,  mountain  stream, 
freshening  and  fertilizing  the  region  through  which  it 
flows,  and  in  the  hottest  days  the  eternal  snows  of 
Mount  Hermon  seem  to  waft  a  cooling  benediction  to 
whoever  looks  upon  it.  The  streets  are  very  narrow  and 
hardly  admit  of  a  carriage.  We  did,  however,  use  one 
except  in  that  street  which  is  called  "  Strait,"  and  which 
is  not,  as  the  sound  of  the  name  would  im^tly,  by  any 
means  the  shortest  distance  between  two  points.  It  is, 
moreover,  encumbered  by  bazaars  where  silver  flligree 
work  is  offered  for  sale.  Of  course  we  saw  the  "  place  in 
the  wall,''  the  window  of  the  house  built  against  the 
outer  city  wall,  whence  St.  I^iul  \vas  let  down  in  a  bas- 
ket, and  also,  "to  make  assurance  doubly  sure,"  the  tomb 
of  the  servant  wlio  let  iiim  down,  christened  "St. 
George."  The  place  of  St.  Paul's  conversion  and  the 
site  of  Xaaman's  house  were  pointed  out  to  us.  Other 
traditional  places,  as  the  house  of  Ananias  and  of  Judas, 
we  saw,  though  on  what  probable  claim  it  is  hard  to 
imagine.  There  are  some  deliglitful  drives  about  the 
environs,  through  gardens  and  groves,  and  everywhere 
the  snow-white  head  of  Hermon  was  visible.  Outside 
the  city  walls,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  is  a  place  called 
"  God's  Gate,"  where  pilgrims  assemble  in  camp  before 

28 


434  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

departure  for  Mecca.  Thousands  of  them  hold  camp- 
meetings  there,  and  it  is  probable  that  they  are  located 
there  for  sanitary  reasons.  In  1860  occurred  the  massacre 
of  the  Christians  hy  the  Druses,  those  fierce  and  fanati- 
cal men  of  Mount  Lebanon.  Twenty-six  hundred  were 
slain,  and  are  buried  in  one  cemetery  outside  the  city 
walls.  United  European  opinion  forced  tlie  Sultan  to 
bring  the  murderers  to  justice,  and  their  heads  were 
liberally  distributed  about  the  city. 

The  diligence  for  Beyrout  is  ready.  We  are  to  leave  our 
pleasant  rooms  looking  out  u[>on  a  courtyard  with  foun- 
tains and  goldfish,  with  orange  and  lemon  trees,  with  its 
balconies  and  stone  stairways,  for  the  ride  across  the 
mountains.  As  before,  we  started  in  the  early  morning 
along  the  course  of  the  Abana,  which  we  followed  to  its 
source.  At  our  stopping  places  along  tlie  way  were 
fountains  and  prayer  stations  where  devout  travelers 
could  perform  their  devotions  and  their  ablutions  as  well. 
There  were  priests  on  board,  who  hurried  through  the 
business,  always  in  season  for  the  start.  One  young 
blood,  however,  evidently  a  high  toned  Moslem,  took  so 
much  time  in  removing  his  shoes  and  stockings  (super- 
fluous articles  which  the  others  did  not  indulge  in)  that 
the  diligence  was  just  on  the  point  of  starting.  Although 
in  api)arently  devout  prayer,  he  cast  a  side  glance  at  us, 
and  on  F.  making  a  motion  for  him  to  hurry  up,  he 
snatched  up  his  fi.iot  gear  and  started.  All  the  passengers 
smiled  as  he  clambered  on  in  the  very  nick  of  time. 

Our  objective  point  this  time  was  Baall>ec.  A  line 
running  from  Damascus  to  Beyrout,  in  direction  a  little 
north  of  west,  forms  the  l>ase  of  a  triangle  of  which 
Baalbec  is  the  apex.  At  Esturia,  a  station  on  the  way, 
said  to  have  l)een  the  home  of  Agrippa,  we  changed  con- 
veyances for  Baalbec,  about  thirty  miles  distant.  It  was 
throug-h  a  rough  and  mountainous  countrv,  and  we  were 


BAALBEC.  435 

ghid  to  descend  into  the  plain  and  reach  the  recently 
built  establishment  dignitied  by  the  name  of  Hotel  Pal- 
myra, which  was,  however,  so  near  a  running  brook,  or  the 
river  of  Baalbec,  that  it  proved  nearly  impossible  to  sleep. 
The  ruins  at  Baalbec  are  very  grand,  and  the  size  of 
some  of  the  stones  high  in  the  walls  excited  our  profound 
amazement.  Here  are  remains  of  temples  quite  as  im- 
posing as  any  to  be  found  in  Greece,  but  the  workmanship 
does  not  appear  to  1)e  so  line.  Baalbec  is  situated  in  a 
valley  sometimes  called  "  Hollow  Syria,"  between  Leb- 
anon and  Anti-Lebanon,  and  is  near  the  hills  on  the  eastern 
side.  All  around,  looking  from  the  great  Temple  of  the 
Sun,  are  ruins  on  ruins,  and  from  this  tumultuous  sea 
arises  here  and  there  one,  two,  or  a  half-dozen  columns. 
At  a  little  distance  may  be  seen  the  quarries,  with  one 
huge  monolith  sixty-eight  feet  long  and  18  by  16  feet  in 
thickness.  We  returned  the  next  morning  to  Esturia, 
and  while  there  had  the  rare  good  fortune  to  meet  six 
American  missionaries.  It  was  a  pleasant  lunch.  They 
were  on  their  way  to  and  from  their  various  fields  of 
labor,  and  we  were  as  glad  to  get  the  insight  they  were 
able  to  give  us  into  the  attairs  of  Syria  as  they  could  be 
to  see  peo[)le  fresh  from  their  native  land. 

Nothing  can  well  be  more  beautiful  than  the  view  of 
Beyrout  and  the  sea  which  opens  to  sight  from  the  dili- 
gence route  as  we  approach  the  end  of  our  journey.  It 
has  also  an  added  interest  arising  from  the  strong  position 
held  by  the  American  Missions,  a  point  of  advance  for 
the  regeneration  of  Syria. 

From  Beyrout  we  took  a  French  steamer  for  Smyrna. 
Mr.  Bliss  accompanied  us  as  far  as  Tripoli,  after  which 
there  were  no  English-speaking  people  on  board.  The 
voyage,  however,  was  for  the  most  part  very  pleasant, — 
good  weather,  quiet  seas,  and  rest  from  long  rides  on 
land.     Tripoli  has  some  remains  of  crusading  times  and 


436  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

is  favored  by  the  majestic  background  of  Mount  Leba- 
non, which  rises  to  the  height  of  10,000  feet.  We  next 
touched  at  Latakia,  anciently  Laodicea,  about  seventy 
miles  north  of  Tripoli.  This  seat  of  a  church  which  was 
"  neither  cold  nor  hot,"  is  now  chiefly  famous  for  its 
tobacco.  In  the  hot  and  fertile  spaces  between  the  foot- 
hills the  Turkish  farmer  cultivates  the  weed  once  con- 
sumed only  in  the  nargilehs  of  rich  lords  of  the  harem 
but  which  is  now  mostly  sold  for  the  markets  of  France 
and  England.  Here  we  met  Miss  Sears  and  Mr.  Gates, 
missionaries  from  Mardin,  and  two  lads,  en  route  from 
Marash  to  the  United  States.  As  we  go  about  the  same 
distance  northward,  still  passing  Antioch,  which  is  mid- 
way and  about  twenty  miles  inland,  we  reach  the  Gulf  of 
Iskanderoon  on  which  Alexandretta  is  situated.  Here  a 
land  wind,  both  hot  and  furious,  detained  our  ship  three 
days,  being  unable  to  discharge  her  freight.  "We  were 
now  in  the  province  of  Ale})po,  and  this  pestilential 
place,  built  in  the  marshes,  is  the  seaport  of  the  capital, 
some  sixty-five  miles  inland. 

We  next  touched  at  Mersin.  IN  ear  here  the  river  Cyd- 
nus  comes  down  to  the  sea  from  Tarsus,  the  birthplace  of 
Paul,  and  along  the  shore  may  be  seen  yet  standing  Co- 
rinthian columns  of  some  ruined  city.  From  thence  we 
went  on  to  Rhodes.  This  island  is  apparently  not  more 
than  twenty-five  miles  in  length  and  from  eiglit  to  nine 
in  its  greatest  width,  so  that  if  in  its  ancient  glory  there 
were  3,000  statues  there,  and  other  buildings  in  propor- 
tion, it  must  have  been  pretty  thoroughly  covered.  Xear 
the  harbor  is  a  gateway  flanked  by  towers,  and  in  the 
wall  the  foundations  of  the  Colossus.  The  ruins  to  be 
seen  on  the  island  now  are  chiefly  those  of  crusading 
times.  We  saw  the  palace  of  the  Grand  Master  of  the 
Knights  of  St.  John  and  remains  of  the  cliurch  of  that 
name.     The  one  long  street  liad  some  ancient  Iniildings 


EPHESUS.  437 

with  heraldic  insignia  carved  on  their  fronts.  From 
Rhodes  we  passed  on,  by  and  in  sight  of  Samos,  Patmos, 
and  Chios,  into  the  Gulf  of  Smyrna.  It  must  have  been 
a  busy  time  when  the  islands  of  the  yEgean  each  contrib- 
uted its  share  to  the  arts  and  commerce  of  the  main 
land.  For  the  present,  malarial  suns,  bad  governments, 
and  earthquakes  have  moved  the  star  of  empire  westward. 
Before  saying  much  about  Smyrna  it  may  be  as  well  to 
note  our  visit  to  Ephcsus,  a  place  of  not  less  historic 
interest  in  connection  with  the  spread  of  the  religion  of 
Christianity  than  any  other  in  Asia  Minor.  Situated 
about  forty-five  miles  south\\*est  from  Smyrna,  opposite 
Samos,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cayster,  its  magnificent 
port  aftbrded  entry  for  all  the  commerce  of  the  region, 
and  the  fame  of  its  temples,  theaters,  and  race-course 
was  not  surpassed  anywhere  in  [iroconsular  Asia.  Here 
St.  Paul  dwelt  two  years,  and  over  the  church  he  set  his 
beloved  Timothy.  The  Xew  Testament  let  us  into  the 
civil  administration  of  the  city,  which  was  more  than  a 
thousand  years  old  in  the  apostle's  day.  The  courts,  the 
town  clerk,  the  silversmith,  and  the  coppersmith  are 
familiar  acquaintances.  But  as  we  approached  by  rail 
and  entered  the  station  at  Ayasaluk,  the  towers  of  several 
ruined  mosques,  each  with  an  enormous  stork's  nest  on 
top,  attracted  our  attention.  Going  on  al.iout  a  mile,  the 
ruins  of  an  immense  city  disclosed  themselves.  liecent 
excavations  have  lu'ought  to  light  many  buildings,  the  use 
of  which  is  undetermined.  Between  Mount  Prion  and 
Mount  Coressus  we  saw  the  ^h\gnesian  gate,  and  then 
fallen  marble  columns  for  a  long  way:  the  theater,  an 
immense  building  capable  of  seating  2-l-,00()  }»eople,  the 
Stadium,  or  place  of  ()lympic  games,  and  the  Odeum, 
with  beautiful  columns  of  syenite  and  marl>le  seats  and 
steps,  where  musical  entertainments  are  sup})Osed  to  have 
taken  place,  and  last  but  not  least  the  remains  of  the  great 


438  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

Temple  of  Diana  itself.  Xinety  columns  of  finest  white 
marble  formed  the  double  outer  colonnade.  Of  these, 
some  sections  have  been  unearthed,  and  more  doubtless 
are  yet  to  come.  In  our  walk  through  the  fields  of 
growing  wheat,  which  was  about  six  inches  high,  we  saw 
numerous  women  and  children,  clad  mostly  in  dresses  of 
ga\'  color,  engaged  in  plucking  out  the  tares;  at  least,  so 
we  were  given  to  understand,  although  it  is  said  that  this 
weed  so  nearly  resembles  wheat  or  barley  that  in  a  cer- 
tain stage  of  growth  it  is  almost  impossible  to  distinguish 
between  the  two.  We  saw  what  they  said  were  ruins  of 
a  prison  where  St.  Paul  wa's  confined.  As  we  could  not 
prove  the  fact  to  be  otherwise,  we  did  not  dispute  it. 
Afterwards  we  saw  in  the  church  of  St.  Sophia,  at  Con- 
stantinople, pillars  said  to  have  been  taken  from  the 
Temple  of  Diana. 

But  we  must  return  to  Smyrna  and  over  tlie  region 
where  St.  Paul  doubtless  many  a  time  has  walked.  The 
steam  horse  draws  us  on.  Our  cars,  to  be  sure,  are  second 
class,  —  shaky,  dust-admitting  box-cars,  with  boards  laid 
across  supports  for  seats.  As  I  somewhat  disconsolately 
]-egarded  the  situation,  F.  remarked  that  I  had  been 
putting  on  airs  and  traveling  as  only  nobles  and  crowned 
heads  can  do,  and  now  I  had  to  come  down.  The  Eastern 
nations  certainly  develop  much  poetical  imagination. 
London,  Paris,  and  Xew  York  convey  no  idea  by  tlieir 
names,  and  while  the  names  of  the  Oriental  cities  have 
usually  meanings  aside  from  their  common  use,  each 
place  lias  its  "pet  name."'  Thus  Smyrna  is  the  ••  Pearl  of 
the  Orient."'  It  had  its  Greek  days  of  greatness  and 
contained  a  temple,  or,  as  we  should  say  to-day,  memorial 
hall,  dedicated  to  Homer,  whose  birthplace  it  claimed  to 
be.  Hut  we  know  that  it  was  the  home  of  Polycarp  and 
of  J'-thn,  tlie  beloved  apostle,  and  the  seat  of  one  of  the 
seven  churches. 


SMYRNA.  439 

We  visited  the  mission  schools  and  church,  and  were 
more  especially  interested  in  tlie-  work  of  Mr.  C'onstantine. 
He  has  established,  by  the  aid  of  friends  in  America  and 
elsewhere,  a  place  which  he  calls  the  "  Smyrna  Rest,"  — 
pleasant  rooms  where  the  nsual  (Oriental  refresliments  of 
pipes  and  coitee  are  furnished,  a  reading-room  and  chapel 
attached,  where  Mr.  C.  preaches  to  attentive  and  crowded 
audiences.  We  were  all  the  more  jtleased  at  this  successful 
enterprise  from  our  former  ac(|uaintance  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Constantine  in  Athens,  and  from  recollections  of 
their  visit  soon  after  at  our  home.  Since  that  time  Mr. 
Constantine  lias  gone  to  Constantinople,  and  is  doing  a 
very  good  work  there.  F.  not  infrequently  expresses  in- 
terest in  his  progress  and  sends  him  now  and  then  a 
contribution.  In  this  port  are  seen  many  Greek  sailors, 
as  well  as  others  from  all  nations,  and  the  means  used  are 
well  adapted  to  gain  their  attention.  Tlie  American 
Board  have  very  line,  substantial  buildings  here  for  tlieir 
work.  Aside  from  these  features,  Smyrna  is  in  many  re- 
sjiects  interesting.  Like  most  seaport  towns  of  the  Orient, 
its  variety  of  i)«)i>ulati(»n  is  very  picturesque.  Greeks, 
Jews,  Turks,  Armenians,  Russians,  Persians,  English, 
French,  and  Americans,  all  contribute  a  share  in  the  vari- 
ous groups  that  throng  the  cafes  and  public  ways.  The 
bridge  of  caravans  across  the  ^Teleus  and  the  processions 
of  camels  one  occasionally  sees  there,  and  the  customs 
guard-house  where  the  octroi  duties  are  levied,  are 
curious  in  their  way.  The  ])est  view  of  the  eity,  how- 
ever, IS  from  the  fortilication  of  ancient  Smyriui.  called 
the  Acrojiolis.  The  white  houses  with  red-tiled  roofs, 
the  groves  of  eyprus  and  cedar,  the  l>lue  waters  of  the 
harbor,  and  the  clear  sky  overliead  make  a  delightful 
scene.  The  houses,  doubtless  taking  warning  from 
eartluiuake  ex})eriences,  are  low,  the  white  fronts  jtainted 
in  blue  arabesque  or  with  toliage,  and  )!ot  seldom   with 


440  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

bird-houses  between  the  windows  for  the  sparrows  or 
bluebirds. 

Having  made  our  adieus  to  our  missionary  friends,  we 
went  on  board  the  steamer  Mendoza  and  passed  out 
through  the  tine  harbor  and  gulf  Our  course  is  nearly  due 
north,  and  after  about  seventy-five  miles  we  leave 
Mitylene,  the  ancient  Lesbos  and  birthplace  of  Sappho, 
on  the  left.  Forty  miles  farther  on  is  Lemnos,  where  Vul- 
can struck  when  he  was  thrown  out  of  heaven,  so  the  story 
goes,  and  nearly  opposite,  as  we  sail,  the  Troad,  the  site 
of  Troy  and  scene  of  Homer's  song,  A  more  abject, 
wretched,  and  utterly  played  out  population  than  occupies 
the  plains  once  made  famous  by  such  deeds  ot  demi-gods 
and  lieroes  can  liardly  be  imagined.  We  now  soon  draw 
near  the  strait  of  the  Dardanelles  and  pass  between  two 
forts,  one  on  the  European  and  the  other  on  the  Asiatic  side, 
^ot  far  hence  Xerxes  l)uilt  his  bridge  of  boats  and  ordered 
the  sea  to  l)e  Hogged  for  its  unseemly  behavior  and 
disrespect,  and  here,  too,  Leander  and  Lord  Byron  swum 
the  Hellespont,  which  is  at  this  place  875  feet  wide. 
Across  the  Sea  of  Marmora  and  around  Seraglio  Point, 
we  approach  the  Golden  Horn.  At  this  time  there  was 
quite  a  cold  wind  blowing  down  from  the  Black  sea  and 
some  feathery  particles  of  snow  fell  upon  deck.  A  fat 
and  fluify  old  Turk,  attended  assiduously  by  a  couple 
of  his  wives,  who  hold  an  umbrella  over  his  head, 
was  much  puzzle<l  by  the  phenomenon.  He  had  never 
seen  snow  before  and  said  that  it  was  cotton.  From  what 
part  of  the  Turkish  Enqtire  he  had  come  up  to  visit 
Istamboul  did  not  a]>pear,  but  his  early  education  had 
l)een  neglected.  Ha}»[>y  man  I  He  knew  nothing  about 
the  discussion  ///  re  "Beautiful  Snow." 

Constantinople,  as  it  opens  to  view  at  the  (-Jolden  Horn, 
is  very  sti'iking  in  its  beauty.  First,  the  usaull}'  clear 
sky  and  absence  of  smoke  that  disfigures  so  many  great 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  441 

cities ;  then  the  position,  the  houses  without  intervention 
of  wharves  clipping  into  the  very  water  and  thence  reced- 
ing up  the  hills  all  ahout;  on  our  right  rises  the  huge 
barrack  at  Scutari,  and  further  on,  in  the  waters,  a  white 
lighthouse,  then  the  cannon  foundry  and  the  Mosque  of 
Sultan  Mohammed  ;  the  tower  of  Galata  with  a  brazen 
cupola,  and  Pera  crowning  its  hill  with  the  European  res- 
idences of  stone ;  then  the  mosques  of  Seraglio  Point 
with  their  minarets  rising  out  of  a  forest  of  verdure,  and 
the  houses  in  variety  of  color  rising  street  after  street  on 
this  superl)  amphitheatre,  overtopped  by  the  high  tower 
of  the  Seraskier,  where  watchmen  stand  night  and  day  to 
give  the  alarm  of  tire.  All  this,  set  otl'  as  it  is  by  the 
multitude  of  boats  darting  about  everywhere  among  and 
around  ships  and  steamers  of  every  nation,  forms  a  scene 
surpassing  one's  wildest  anticipations. 

There  is  always  something  interesting  to  be  seen  in  the 
bazaars.  The  building  called  the  Grand  Bazaar  has  every 
variety  of  article  that  can  appeal  to  lancy  or  taste  in  its 
innumerable  stalls.  It  is  overarched  and  lighted  from  the 
cupolas  which  rise  from  its  flat  roof.  In  these  dimly 
lighted  little  streets,  exquisite  perfumes,  Persian  mirrors, 
shawls  and  carpets,  antique  arms,  yataghans,  rich  silks, 
cashmeres,  fans,  scent  boxes,  slippers,  jewelry,  and  dia- 
monds of  fabulous  price  may  be  seen,  and  if  one  does 
not  wish  to  purchase  there  is  entertainment  enough  in 
watching  those  wlio  do  trade,  witli  their  curious  foreign 
ways.  The  shops,  outside  of  this,  are  mostly  little  l)Oxes 
with  shutters  hinged  at  the  top,  which,  l)eing  opened, 
form  awnings,  and  there  the  merchant  sits  among  his 
wares,  seemingly  inditterent  whether  you  l)uy  or  not. 
The  drug  bazaar  is  also  a  most  unique  and  vaguely 
mysterious  place.  The  merchant,  like  a  magician  out  of 
the  "•  Aral»iau  Xights,'"  sits  cross-legged  amid  his  ]»ales, 
sacks,  and  heaps  of  henna,  sandal-wood,  mastic,  ginger. 


442  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

opium,  hasheesh,  and  other  pungently  odorous  articles 
which  we  think  of  as  coming  from  nobody  knows  where, 
but  which  seem  here  to  be  perfectly  at  home,  and  with 
such  superb  indifterence  that  one  would  surely  not  be 
so  ill-mannered  as  to  ask  him  to  sell.  But  it  is  in  the 
Grand  Bazaar  tliat  the  women  of  the  harem  do  most 
spend  their  time  and  the  money  of  their  lords.  But  for 
themselves,  alas  I  they  dress  in  the  Paris  fashions. 

AVe  went  to  see  the  dancing  dervishes.  Their  convent 
is  on  Mount  Pera,  in  the  midst  of  a  cemetery.  The 
apartments  of  this  so-called  convent  are  light,  cheerful, 
and  in  gay  colors,  and  surrounding  a  court.  The  hall 
where  the  ceremony  takes  place  has  a  polished  floor  like 
a  ball-room,  and  is  inclosed  by  a  circular  fence  about 
three  feet  high.  There  is  also  a  balcony  supported  on 
slender  pillars.  This  is  provided  with  a  box  for  the 
Sultan  and  latticed  inclosures  for  the  women.  There  is  a 
pulpit  inscribed  with  passages  from  the  Koran,  and  an 
orchestra  opposite.  Into  this  inclosure  come  the  dervishes, 
two  and  two,  headed  by  the  Iman.  He  seats  himself  on 
a  mat  in  front  of  the  pulpit,  and  they  all  render  him 
obeisance.  They  wear  brown  felt  caps,  wliite  jackets, 
with  tunics  of  the  same  color,  and  close,  white  trousers. 
After  their  prayers,  they  march  around  the  hall,  the 
music  of  flutes  and  drums  strikes  up,  one  of  them  opens 
his  arms  and  begins  slowly  to  turn  nn  his  bare  feet;  his 
tunics  rises  with  the  motion,  as  we  scliool  girls  used  to 
make  a  <-heese;  swifter  and  swifter  yet  lie  goes,  others  one 
by  one  follow,  the  flutes  and  tarboukas  send  forth  shrill 
and  weird  notes:  tlie  floor  is  one  mass  of  spinning  white 
clouds  so  swiftly  moving  tliat  it  makes  one  dizzy  to  look 
at  them.  After  a  while  tliere  is  a  pause,  and  then  a 
renewal  flercer  and  more  tanatical  yet.  until  at  last  one 
after  another  sinks  in  slieer  exhaustion,  and  they  soon 
after  leave  the  liall. 


THE    DERVISHES.  443 

As  a  counterpart  to  this  dizzy,  religious  waltz,  we  went 
to  see  the  howling  dervishes  at  Scutari.  They  also  have 
what  we  style  a  convent,  and  a  hall  where  the  sick  are 
brought  and  children  to  be  treated.  As  before,  the  Iman, 
or  priest,  sits  in  front  of  his  pulpit.  On  the  walls  are 
suspended  various  horrible  looking  instruments  with 
wlfich  the  devotees  torture  themselves,  and  the  dervishes, 
ranged  facing  the  priests,  swing  their  heads  backward  and 
forward,  chanting  in  unison.  This  process  is  continued 
for  some  time,  apparently  for  the  purpose  of  getting  up 
the  excitement;  presently  they  rise,  wagging  their  heads 
with  increased  violence,  and  with  hands  placed  on  each 
other's  shoulders  begin  to  howl  from  the  lowest  gutteral 
depths  the  name  of  Allah.  The  violence  of  the  scene  is 
indescribable  ;  throwing  themselves  backward  and  forward 
in  a  simultaneous  [)lunge,  their  eyes  flashing  and  mouths 
foaming  like  so  many  inmates  of  bedlam,  until  the  ter- 
rible storm  subsided  into  a  mere  inarticulate  chorus  of 
indistinguishable  grunts  like  wild  beasts.  They  then 
began  to  pierce  their  cheeks  witli  poniards  and  cut 
themselves  with  knives.  After  this  process,  which  it 
appears  is  but  an  invocation  to  Allah  to  appear  and  heal 
the  sick,  tlie  patients  came  in  to  be  stepped  on  by  the 
priest;  first  men,  then  young  men  and  boys,  and  lastly 
children,  and  even  mere  babies.  The  priest  was  by  no 
means  a  light  weight,  and  he  set  his  feet  squarely  on  the 
backs,  breasts,  legs,  and  arms  of  his  prostrate  patients. 
()n  the  smaller  children  and  l)abics  he  seemed  to  let  up  a 
little,  resting  part  of  his  weight  on  his  attendants:  but 
the  poor  things  looked  red  in  the  face  and  cried  out  as 
though  about  to  burst  a  blood  vessel.  After  this,  it  was 
made  known  to  me  that  women  were  to  be  treated  by  the 
same  process,  and  I  was  invited  to  witness  the  scene. 
Taking  it  for  granted  that  I  could  have  come  to  such  a 
place  only  from  some  need  like  their  own,  these  women 


444  MRS.  Smyth's  journal, 

urged  and  besought  me  to  lie  down  with  them  and  be 
trodden  on,  and  so  eager  were  they  that  the  Iman,  who 
knew  better  the  state  of  the  case,  interfered  for  my 
protection.  He  took  water  and  breathed  on  it,  which 
they  all  drank  of,  and  this  they  also  urged  me  to  drink. 
Talking  with  some  of  them  through  our  interpreter,  they 
expressed  the  utmost  faith  in  the  cure.  "  And  what,*'  I 
asked,  "  if  you  do  not  get  better?"  "Oh.  it  is  all  right; 
it  is  God's  will;"  and  beyond  the  Turkish  wall  of  fate 
you  cannot  get.  There  is  one  custom  which  reminds  one 
of  the  scape-goat  of  the  Israelites.  A  mosque  called 
the  '"Pigeon  Mosque"  is  the  resort  of  multitudes  of  pi- 
geons, which  blacken  the  air  in  their  fliglit.  To  this  place 
penitents  resort,  casting  a  grain  or  grains  for  every  sin, 
wliich  the  pigeon  forever  flies  away  with. 

The  Mosque  of  St,  Sophia  is  declared  by  some  travelers 
to  have  the  most  impressive  interior  of  any  religious  edi- 
fice in  the  world,  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  not  excepted,  and 
Justinian,  when  lie  had  finished  it,  exclaimed  that  he  had 
beaten  Solomon.  It  was  Iniilt  from  the  spoils  of  the 
ancient  world  and  replaced  that  built  by  C'onstantine, 
which  was  burned.  The  wonderful  dome  is  sup})Orted  by 
columns  from  the  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus,  and  from 
the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Baalbec.  Two  immense  urns 
of  porphyry  from  Pergamos  contain  water  for  ablutions. 
Above  the  place  where  the  altar  used  to  be  liangs  one 
of  the  four  carjiets  on  which  Mahomet  knelt  in  prayer. 
The  pul}»it  is  reached  by  a  staircase  which  has  marvel- 
ously  carved  Italustrades,  and  immense  green  plaques 
fastened  to  the  walls  have  inscriptions  in  gold  from  the 
Koran.  From  tlie  dome  (hqtend  cords  to  which  are 
attached  ostrich's  eggs,  and  wire  frames  for  chande- 
liers. The  eri^ect  of  the  vast  expanse,  with  its  sky-light 
dome,  its  mosaic  floors  covered  with  }>rayer  mats,  the  four 
cherul.iim  of  the  galleries,  and  the  dim  figure,  only  partly 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  445 

obscured  by  Moslem  whitewash,  looking  down  from  the 
arch  over  the  place  of  the  altar,  goes  far  to  justify  the  ad- 
miration of  visitors.  Entering  here,  as  in  all  other 
mos(|ues,  we  deposit  our  shoes  and  are  given  sandals  of 
straw,  so  as  not  to  profane  the  sacred  precinct.  The  ex- 
terior is  not  so  impressive,  as,  between  the  huge  bastions 
erected  to  steady  the  walls,  iniirm  from  earthquake  shocks, 
are  shops,  booths,  tombs,  and  baths,  while  the  dome 
arising  from  its  minarets  appears  ratlier  heavy. 

From  this  last  and  crowning  glory  of  Constantino[»le 
we  turn  to  the  colleice  and  the  missions  of  an  older  and 
yet  younger  faith  before  setting  our  faces  homeward,  pre- 
mising that  there  are  a  thousand  things  worthy  of  men- 
tion which  we  saw  but  made  no  note  of.  It  will  hardly 
do,  however,  to  say  nothing  of  one  feature  wliich  is  pecu- 
liar to  this  port,  —  the  thousands  of  caiques,  or  Turkish 
canoes,  which  are  seen  darting  about  every wdiere.  They 
comfortably  seat  four,  and  the  owner,  in  his  picturesque 
white  costume,  with  the  red  fez  and  striped  sash,  is  usually 
a  well-developed  specimen  of  a  Greek  or  Arnaout.  Greeks 
are  seen  in  numbers  throughout  Constantinople  and  espe- 
cially seek  enqtloy  as  boatmen  or  guides.  Arnaout  is  the 
Turkish  word  for  Albanian,  a  tribe  or  race  somewhat 
similar  in  their  characteristics  to  the  Greeks.  It  is  a  niys- 
tery  to  most  people,  I  fancy,  why  these  races  were  so  easily 
subdued,  and  have  been  so  long  under  the  yoke  of  the  Otto- 
man empire.  The  caique  is  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
long  by  three  in  width,  and  is  often  fitted  with  elegantly 
carved  seats  and  caq)ets,  and  sometimes  ornamented  Avith 
gilding.  Incoming  steamers  are  beset  by  scores  of  these 
boats,  all  eager  for  passengers.  Passing  from  Pera  to  Scu- 
tari it  is  the  common  conveyance. 

Our  personal  observation  of  mission  work  at  Oonstanti- 
nople  was  confined  to  Robert  College  and  to  the  A'oung 
AVomen's  Home.     The  former  is  well  known,  and  seems 


446  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

to  be  doing  a  most  excellent  work  in  offering  a  higher 
education  to  the  young  men  of  the  races  practically 
emancipated  in  the  Russian  war,  and  as  a  witness  to  the 
superior  nature  of  a  Christian  over  a  Mohammedan  civili- 
zation, which  must  one  day  be  felt.  This  work  is  sup- 
plemented by  an  effort  quite  as  important  when  one  con- 
siders the  condition  of  the  women  of  these  countries,  to 
show  the  nature  of  a  true  home.  Under  the  very  prac- 
tical instruction,  young  women  and  girls  are  trained  in 
simple  household  duties  as  well  as  in  the  elements  of  an 
education  adapted  to  their  needs.  It  is  a  very  pleasant 
school  to  visit. 

Having  devoted  all  the  time  to  the  city  of  Constantine 
that  we  could  spare,  \\e  bade  adieu  to  tlie  shadow  of  the 
Sublime  Porte  and  to  our  dragoman,  M.  Triantaphilos 
Papadopaulos,  of  the  Hotel  de  Byzance,  and  made  our 
way  to  the  steamer,  which  was  ready  to  take  us  through 
the  Bosphorus  into  the  Black  sea  and  on  to  Varna. 

It  was  a  rough  passage  of  about  150  miles  which 
brought  us  in  darkness  and  a  furious  rain  storm  to  our 
destination,  and  one  of  the  most  unpleasant  passages  in 
all  our  travels.  To  climb  down  the  side  of  the  pitching, 
rolling  steamer  into  a  boat  which  every  moment  seemed 
about  to  be  swallowed  up  in  the  watery  darkness  was 
enough  to  try  the  steadiest  nerves.  It  was  as  though  one 
should  undertake  to  go  down  from  the  roof  of  a  common 
two-story  house  in  a  furious  wind  and  dark  night  l)y  a 
swinging  ladder,  nay,  worse,  for  it  seemed  very  uncertain 
whether  there  was  anything  to  set  foot  on  at  the  bottom. 
Those  who  were  less  fortunate  than  myself  in  respect  to 
waterproofs  were  wet  to  the  skin,  and  when  we  got  to  shore 
we  had  to  be  lifted  bodily  out  of  the  boat.  Such  are  some 
of  the  obstructions  to  commerce  which  exist  in  this  region. 
Varna  is  the  city  where  the  combined  forces  of  France  and 
England    met   previous  to  the  descent   on  the  Crimea. 


THE    DANUBE    VALLEY.  447 

Crossing  Bulgaria  by  rail  we  reached  Rustchuk  and  were 
taken  across  tlie  swollen  and  turl>id  spring  waters  of  the 
Danube  by  boat  (not  by  any  means  the  beautiful  blue  Dan- 
ube of  the  song),  and  kept  on  to  Bucharest,  which  is  the 
capital  of  Rounuinia.  This  city  on  the  river  Denibovitza, 
a  tributary  of  the  Danube,  has  about  250,000  inhabitants. 
Its  name  signiiies  the  "  City  of  Joy,"  and  there  is  an  air 
of  enterprise  and  general  stir  which  amply  justifies  its 
emancipation  from  Turkish  misrule.  On  our  route 
hither  we  were  struck  with  the  honest  and  industrious 
look  of  the  people,  the  fine  cattle,  thatched  houses,  and 
tokens  of  growth.  The  city  boasts  a  horse  railroad,  has 
numerous  gardens,  cafes,  and  public  squares.  There  are 
also  marks  of  Russian  customs,  such  as  the  use  of  sledges 
in  winter  and  the  droschke  in  summer.  One  sees  a  mixed 
population  of  liussiaiis,  Greeks,  Jews,  French,  Swiss, 
Armenians,  and  Bulgarians.  The  Roumanians  and 
Bulgarians  are  much  alike  in  appearance  and  habit, 
and  are  making  wonderful. progress  since  their  emancipa- 
tion from  Turkish  rule.  Spending  the  night  here  at  a 
good  hotel,  we  pushed  on  for  Buda-Pesth,  cities  situated 
on  either  side  of  the  Danube  and  connected  by  a  fine  sus- 
pension bridge.  The  route  over  a  spur  of  the  Carpathian 
Mountains  and  through  the  Iron  Gate  into  the  Danube  val- 
ley is  full  of  interest.  The  Iron  Gate  is  a  passage  com- 
manded by  a  strongly  fortified  island  on  the  Hungarian 
border.  lUida  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  and  the 
bridge  is  1,227  feet  long  by  39  wide.  The  situation  is 
very  fine,  and  its  importance  is  enhanced  by  the  palace 
and  })arliament  liouse.  Tliere  are  also  some  mineral  baths 
of  considerable  repute,  and  a  steam  navigation  company 
which  controls  the  travel  and  commerce  of  the  Danube 
for  some  distance. 

From  Buda  to  \"ienna,  about  160  miles  by  rail,  mostly 
in  the  valley  of  the  Danube,  is  an  interestino;  ride.     AVe 


448  MRS.  Smyth's  journal. 

were  favored  with  mild  weather.  The  population  is  sim- 
ply immense  through  all  this  land ;  garden  touches  gar- 
den, with  frequent  thickening  into  towns  and  cities. 
After  this  we  spent  two  days  in  Vienna,  which  seems  but 
a  second  Paris,  and  will  not  need  from  ordinary  travelers 
like  us  a  detailed  description.  As  we  journeyed  along 
via  Munich,  Bavaria,  Saxony,  and  the  valley  of  the 
Neckar,  we  could  but  wonder  at  the  crowded  population 
and  how  it  could  be  possible  to  find  bread  for  so  many 
mouths.  After  a  little  stay  at  Strasbourg  and  a  peep  at 
the  famous  cathedral,  we  reached  Paris,  April  16. 


CHAPTER    XLII. 

THE    WILLOWS. 

The  three  houses  built  and  occupied  by  Grovernor 
Smyth  were  significant  of  his  rising  fortunes,  as  well  as 
of  the  growth  of  the  city  of  Manchester.  First,  near 
the  corner  of  Central  and  Chestnut  streets,  when  the 
original  pines  were  still  standing  on  Merrimack  (now 
Monument)  Square,  a  pleasant  and  convenient  two-story 
cottage  was  erected  in  1844,  and  when  that  was  outgrown 
a  more  pretentious  residence  arose  on  the  corner  of 
Bridge  and  Chestnut  streets,  then  the  extreme  northern 
limit  of  building  in  the  city.  In  1866  the  Governor 
bought  of  the  Amoskeag  Company  the  estate  comprising 
about  ten  acres  where  he  now  resides,  and  which  is 
knoAvn  as  "  The  "Willows,"  the  locality  having  many  speci- 
mens of  that  graceful  tree.  There  were  also  a  few  elms 
and  an  occasional  group  of  white  birches.  The  land  was 
undulating,  and  consisted  of  one  prominent  ridge  over- 
looking river  and  falls,  east  of  which  crept  a  valley,  and 
still  farther  east  arose  to  the  level  of  Elm  street.  "With 
the  exceptions  named  the  plot  was  a  barren  sand  bank, 
relieved  by  an  unsightly  swamp. 

In  earlier  days  it  was  the  site  of  an  Indian  encamp- 
ment, probably  a  lodge  of  the  great  Passeconoway  him- 
self, —  and  so  one  governor  succeeds  another  on  the  same 
historic  spot.  From  time  to  time  spear  and  arrow-heads, 
with  many  implements  fashioned  by  the  long-lost  race, 
have  been  found  on  the  grounds.  This  also  was  once  a 
part  of  the  farm  of  General  John  Stark. 

The  new  owner  immediately  began  improvements, 
meantime  perfecting  his  plans  and  making  arrangements 

29 


450  LIFE    OF   FREDERICK    SMYTH. 

for  building  a  house.  Gridley  J.  F.  Bryant,  Esq.,  of  Bos- 
ton, was  employed  as  architect,  and  he  also  gave  the  aid 
of  his  experience  and  fine  taste  in  so  placing  trees,  paths, 
and  shrubber}^  as  to  tell  most  eiFectively  on  the  general 
design.  A  hedge  of  spruce  was  set  about  the  entire  lot, 
and  after  several  years  of  labor  in  ditching,  draining, 
grading,  and  top-dressing,  the  land  assumed  a  new  aspect. 
The  sandy  hill  became  a  field  of  living  green,  the  waters 
of  the  swamp  were  collected  into  a  pond,  the  underlying 
ledge  which  cropped  out  here  and  there  was  fringed  with 
creeping  vines  and  made  to  do  duty  in  adding  grace  to 
the  scenery,  and  everywhere  was  seen  harmonious  growth. 

The  lumber  was  ordered  for  building,  and  much  of  the 
interior  finish  —  the  maple,  butternut,  cherry,  and  birch — 
was  cut  on  ancestral  lands  in  Candia.  The  foundation 
was  put  in  and  left  to  settle  for  a  year  before  beginning 
the  superstructure.  The  main  house,  fronting  south,  is 
fifty  feet  square,  with  L  thirty  by  twenty-one.  A  tower 
rises  from  the  intersection  eighty  feet  in  height,  sur- 
mounted by  a  lofty  flag-stafif.  The  view  from  the  lookout 
on  this  tower  is  unsurpassed  in  many  respects  by  any  of 
the  local  scenery,  and  combines  in  a  pleasing  degree  the 
natural  wildness  of  mountain,  forest,  and  stream,  with 
the  busy  charm  of  human  industry.  The  residence  is 
thoroughl}'  finished  from  basement  to  attic,  water,  hot 
and  cold,  is  carried  to  every  room  in  brass  pipes  tin-lined, 
and  the  heating  is  by  means  of  hot  water.  The  furnace, 
wood  and  coal  room,  milk  room,  laundry,  and  vegetable 
room  are  located  in  the  basement.  There  is  also  a  sum- 
mer kitchen,  which  communicates  by  an  elevator  with 
that  upon  the  floor  above. 

The  main  entrance  to  the  house  is  through  a  spacious 
and  lofty  'porte  cochere,  the  roof  of  which  is  supported  b}' 
twelve  Doric  columns,  and  which  leads  to  a  broad  hall 
intersecting  the  house  from  south  to  north.  On  the  left 
as  we  go  in,  parlor  and  library  communicate  with  each 


THE   WILLOWS.  461 

other  by  broad  double  doors  on  either  side  the  chimney. 
The  parlor  is  a  large  and  airy  apartment,  commanding  an 
extended  view  of  the  falls,  Rock  Rimmon,  the  Unca- 
noonucs,  the  Francestown  mountains,  the  long  sweep  of 
the  cotton-mills,  the  railroad,  and  bridges.  Midway  the 
main  hall  a  section  extends  to  the  northern  entrance,  with 
dining-room,  kitchen,  and  pantries  on  the  left,  and  the 
sitting-room  on  the  right. 

The  entire  first  story  is  finished  in  black-walnut,  with 
dado  three  feet  high  in  heavy  paneling.  The  rooms  are 
lofty,  and  the  frescoing  light  and  graceful  in  design.  On 
the  second  floor  are  six  sleeping  apartments,  four  with 
bath-rooms  attached,  and  all  provided  with  hot  and  cold 
water.  These  rooms  are  known  as  the  cherry,  maple, 
butternut,  oak,  and  birch,  according  to  the  finish,  and  the 
frescoing  is  done  in  fruit  or  foliage  to  correspond.  In 
the  third  story  are  several  sleeping-rooms  finished  in  pine, 
the  natural  color  of  the  wood.  West  of  the  upper  hall  is 
the  museum  and  picture  gallery.  Here  is  a  fine  collec- 
tion of  Indian  relics,  mostly  found  about  the  grounds, 
and  many  half-length  life-size  crayon  portraits  of  early 
friends  of  Governor  Smyth,  done  by  Mr.  J.  Bailey  Moore. 
Among  other  matters  of  interest  one  may  see  an  arched 
window  rescued  from  the  burning  ruins  of  the  Congrega- 
tional church  in  Candia  in  1848,  and  the  sign  of  the 
Black  Horse  Inn  kept  in  Brentwood  by  Mr.  Smyth's 
great-grandfather  in  1736.  There  is  also  a  large  collec- 
tion of  papers  and  pamphlets  which  have  been  carefully 
saved,  the  accumulation  of  years.  Specimens  of  Xile 
pottery,  hand-wrought  brass  lamp-holders  from  Algiers, 
and  various  quaint  articles,  complete  the  catalogue. 

The  entrance  hall  below  contains  four  meritorious 
pieces  of  marble  statuary-  from  Italy,  representing  the 
four  seasons,  an  ancient  Dutch  timepiece  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  old,  with  Chipendale  case,  and  a  musical 
attachment  of  bells  playing  a  difterent  tune  at  each  half 


452  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

hour,  showing  days  of  the  week,  month,  and  changes  of 
the  moon.  Here  are  also  a  variety  of  rare  things  from 
abroad,  —  a  magnificent  costume  of  a  sheik,  arms,  me- 
mentos and  souvenirs  of  travel. 

In  the  parlor  is  a  bust  of  Mrs.  Smyth,  by  Tadolini, 
an  Italian  sculptor  at  Rome  in  1878,  and  in  the  library 
that  of  Governor  Smyth,  by  the  same  artist.  The  library 
is  that  of  an  active,  stirring  man  of  aifairs,  who  reads 
men  and  things  rather  than  books,  and  so  deals  largely 
with  politics,  state  history,  agriculture,  and  the  matters 
of  to-day,  rather  than  classic  essays  or  scholarly  specula- 
tions. Photographs,  guide-books,  prints,  maps,  and  paint- 
ings illustrative  of  foreign  life  abound,  and  also  stones, 
fragments,  pottery,  curious  bits  of  glass,  of  marble,  or  of 
cement,  from  the  most  famous  resorts  of  the  Old  World, 
add  to  the  interest  of  the  rooms,  and  enable  one  better  to 
follow  the  story  of  their  owner's  travels,  which  he  relates 
at  times  in  a  most  entertaining  manner. 

The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  an  eye  to  symmetry  and 
beauty.  Deciduous  and  evergreen  trees  of  most  kinds 
known  to  this  latitude  are  so  set  as  not  to  interfere  with, 
but  rather  to  enhance,  the  view  in  diiferent  directions. 
Many  pieces  of  classic  and  modern  statuary  are  placed  in 
favorable  situations,  fountains  play  to  cool  the  summer 
air,  and  rustic  seats  invite  one  to  rest  under  wide-spread- 
ing willows. 

The  fish-pond,  on  whose  surface  floats  a  real  Indian 
canoe,  where  the  water-lilies  bloom  in  their  season,  is 
stocked  with  native  fish  and  German  carp.  A  windmill, 
the  tower  of  which  is  eighty  feet  high,  supplies  water  for 
irrigating  purposes,  while  the  evergreen  hedge  surround- 
ing the  lot  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  State.  A  fine  pear 
orchard,  containing  most  of  the  approved  varieties  com- 
mended by  the  American  Pomological  Society,  of  which 
the  owner  is  a  distinguished  and  active  member,  and  a 
productive  vegetable  garden,  are  located  in  convenient 


THE    WILLOWS.  453 

nearness  to  the  house.  The  stable,  about  one  hundred 
feet  northeast,  has  ample  accommodations  for  the  Gov- 
ernor's horses  and  Jersey  cows.  At  the  Salmon-street 
entrance  is  a  convenient  and  tasty  lodge,  designed  for 
the  use  of  the  farmer  and  man  of  all  work  who  attends 
to  the  somewhat  numerous  matters  the  Governor  is  apt 
to  provide  for  him. 

Salmon  street,  which  bounds  the  estate  on  the  south, 
is  fitly  named,  as  a  reminder  of  the  once  famous  fishing- 
place  at  Amoskeag  Falls,  from  which  it  leads,  and  also  as 
a  token  of  the  interest  Governor  Smyth  had  in  restocking 
these  waters  with  the  salmon.  It  is  true  that  the  various 
fishways  built  at  Lowell,  and  Lawrence,  and  Manchester, 
by  the  manufacturing  companies  under  the  laws  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, have  not  accomplished  the  purpose  for  which 
they  were  designed,  but  every  year,  in  the  season,  salmon 
of  large  size  are  seen  at  the  falls.  The  grounds  are  usu- 
ally open  to  the  public,  and  people  frequently  drive  or 
leisurely  walk  over  the  concrete  paths,  observing  what- 
ever is  to  be  seen.  Fronting  "The  Willows"  on  Elm 
street  are  some  of  the  finest  residences  in  the  city,  whose 
green  lawns  and  varied  styles  of  architecture  add  much 
to  the  charm  of  the  place. 

"With  this  chapter  these  sketches  are  for  the  present 
brought  to  a  conclusion.  They  have  been  written  not 
for  publication,  but  for  private  circulation  among  those 
friends  who  are  familiar  with  the  times  and  afiairs  dis- 
cussed, and  to  preserve  in  the  order  of  their  occurrence 
the  memory  of  events  which  took  place  during  the  most 
stormy  period  of  our  nation's  existence,  events  in  which 
Governor  Smyth  has  borne  an  honorable  and  conspicuous 
part.  It  is  needless  to  say  to  any  one  who  knows  him 
that  he  is  still  a  lover  of  his  native  State,  proud  to  ac- 
knowledge his  indebtedness  to  her  citizens  for  their  stead- 
fast support,  and  that  he  believes  the  facilities  she  ofters 
to   honesty,   intelligence,   and   enterprise  are   second  in 


454  LIFE   OF   FREDERICK   SMYTH. 

point  of  real  value   to   those  of  no  other  State  in  the 
Union. 

Since  this  volume  was  printed,  one  of  its  compilers, 
the  Hon.  Ben :  Perley  Poore,  has  been  gathered  to  his 
fathers.  A  life-long  and  highly  valued  friend  of  Gov- 
ernor Smyth,  when  he  learned  that  this  sketch  was  in 
preparation  he  very  kindly  offered  to  add  some  things 
within  his  personal  knowledge  in  respect  to  state  and  na- 
tional agricultural  affairs,  and  also  as  to  the  Governor's 
services  to  the  State  during  the  war,  in  the  government 
departments  at  Washington. 


N  D  e:  X 


PAGE 

Address,  agricultural 176 

Athens  Club 330 

dedication  of  Soldiers'  Monument 307 

Governor's  inaugural 143-212 

Mayor's  inaugural 22,  36,  52,  123 

valedictory 290 

Agricultural  Societies: 

of  Great  Britain 114 

New  Hampshire 92 

United  States,  Chicago 97 

Cincinnati 102 

Louisville 94 

Richmond 95 

Washington 102 

Amoslseag  annexed 51 

Veterans  at  Newburyport 266 

Ancestry 1 

Ando ver,  Mass 12 

Andrew,  John  A 174-191 

Angel),  Maj.  Jesse 119 

Atheneum,  Manchester 17-51 

Ayer,  Richard  H 35 

Bakersville 254 

Bank  of  England 113 

Banks,  Gen.  N.  P 366 

Banquet  of  New  England  Society' 201 

Eagle  Hotel,  Concord 248 

honor  of  M.  P.  Wilder 361 

Barring  (M.  P.),  reception  by 109 

Bouton,  Dr.  Nathaniel 250 

Butler,  Gen.  B.  F 251-272 

Blaine,  James  G.,  reception  of 365 

Candia,  characteristics  of 9 

Chase,  Chief -Justice 249-305 

Pike 11 

City  clerk 21 

Club !t8 

Clay,  Henry 35 

Claremont  Railroad  extension 205 


456  INDEX. 

Commissioner  honorary  at  Paris 316 

of  the  State  at  London 104 

to  build  Reform  School 67 

Concord  Railroad,  controversy  with 35 

director  of ". 364 

president 364 

Continental  tour  with  C  L.  Flint 118 

Corporator  of  national  asylums 195 

Correspondence,  foreign 104-316 

Cross,  Hon.  David 267-305 

Dame,  Miss  Harriet  M 203 

Daniels,  D.  J 137 

Dartmouth  College 172-260-261 

Dayton,  Ohio 270 

Delmonico,  New  England  dinner 201 

Dover,  militia  encampment 268 

Discussion  on  Governor's  expenses 301 

Early  life 1-14 

Election  as  city  clerk 21 

Governor 139 

Mayor 22-122 

Elegy,  Gray's  scene  of Ill 

English  opinion  on  the  war 108 

Exposition,  International,  London 104 

Paris 316 

Fairs,  County,  at  Milford 193 

Mechanics',  at  Lowell,  Mass 192 

New  Hampshire,  at  Dover 306 

United  States  Agricultural  Society 93-96-102 

Sanitary 120 

Fete,  Marquis  of  Salisbury,  England 112 

Finances,  state 144 

Fishery  laws 150-257 

Flint,  C.  L 118 

French,  Hon.  E.  B 252 

Garfield  Memorial  Address 358 

Gettysburg 120 

Governor's  inauguration 143 

messages 143-212 

valedictory 290 

Gunckle,  General 273 

Harriman,  Walter 137 

Head,  General 267 

Healey,  Capt.  Cornelius 208 

Illness  and  death  of  Mrs.  Smj'th 367 

Indian  Hill  Farm 267 


INDEX.  467 

Journeys  abroad 316 

Mrs.  Smyth's  note-book 368 

King,  Capt.  D.  W 196 

Library,  Free  Public '. 60-59 

Lincoln,  Abraham 98 

Letters,  case  of  Thomas  O'Brien 251 

soldiers'  bounties 252 

to  Colonel  Savage,  of  Alton 255 

case  of  Captain  Healey 208 

to  D.  W.  King 196 

declining  third  term  as  Governor 276 

from  the  East 316-337 

to  Miss  Clara  Glidden 288 

Surgeon-General  Barnes 170 

Secretary  Seward 208 

Stanton  168 

London  International  Exhibition  of  1862 104 

Loring,  Hon.  George  B 175 

Lowell,  Mass.,  employment  at 10 

Mechanics' "Fair 192 

Manager  of  Soldiers'  Homes 269 

Manchester,  business  in 16 

first  visit  to  13 

Mayor  of 22,  122 

Marriage 18 

Mechi  Alderman  Tiptree  Farm 115 

Melvin,  Thomas  J 11 

Mexico,  tour  in 352 

Milford,  speech  at 193 

Messages,  Governor's 143-212 

Mayor's 22,  36,  52,  123 

Militia  encampments 264-268 

National  Soldiers'  Homes 269 

Nomination  as  Governor 136 

Newbury  port,  visit  to 266 

New  Orleans 352 

Newport  Railroad  extension 205 

O'Brien,  Thomas 251 

Oration  to  the  unknown  dead 345 

Phillips  Andover  Academy 12 

Piscataquog  annexed 51 

Pomological  Society 96 

Positions  of   trust ;U3 

Proclamations,  Fast 279 

Thanksgiving 167 


458  INDEX. 

Provincial  Records 250 

Press  Association 358 

Portsmouth,  July  4 256 

Reception  of  Chief-Justice  Chase 305 

at  Dover 26  8 

of  General  Sherman 259 

of  James  6.  Blaine 365 

Reform  School 67 

Representative  from  Ward  3 95 

Republican  Convention 96 

Return  of  Volunteers 166 

Russell,  Rev.  C  P 9 

Sanitary  Commission 120 

Savage,  Col.  George 255 

School  children  visit  Concord 283 

Serenade,  Washington,  D.  C 199 

Seward,  William  H 208 

Sherman,  General 259 

Speeches,  County  Fair  at  Milford 193 

death  of  Garfield 358 

Dayton,  Ohio 270 

dedication  Soldiers'  Monument 307 

election  as  Governor 206 

gubernatorial  convention 96 

Mechanics'  Fair,  Lowell 192 

Festival  at  Manchester 34 

New  England  dinner 201 

New  Hampshire  Militia 268 

Newport  Railroad  extension 205 

on  nominations 138,  140,  210 

pardon  of  convict 281 

Portsmouth,  July  4 256 

presentation  to  Major  Angell 119 

Dr.  C.  W.  Wallace 139 

Redmond  (M.  P.),  at  Smyth's  Hall 363 

return  of  Second  Regiment 203 

school  children 284 

temperance  convention 262 

Veterans'  dinner 277 

Wilder  banquet 361 

Stearns,  Onslow 137 

Teaching  school 11 

Temperance 262 

Thanksgiving  Proclamation 197 

Tiptree  Farm,  England 115 

Trees  set  on  commons  and  streets 34 

Treasurer 92 


INDEX.  459 

Valedictory  address 290 

Visit  to  the  old  homestead 357 

Wallace,  Dr.  C.  W 138 

Wallis,  George,  England 117 

War  correspondence 168 

Webster,  Daniel 35-93 

Hospital 170 

Wheat,  Thomas,  M.  D 10 

Whittier,  John  G 267 

Willows,  The 449 

Wilderness,  Battle  of 121 

Wilder,  MP 361 

Windsor  Castle Ill 


|IIitstrati0its. 

Portrait  of  Governor  Smyth Frontispiece. 

Portrait  of  Mrs.  Smyth op.  page  368 


Birthplace 

Old  schoolhouse 

First  residence  in  Manchester 

Residence  on  Bridge  street 

Residence  at  ' '  The  Willows  " 

Residence  at  "The  Willows,"  view  from  Elm  street  . . . 
Residence  at  "The  Willows,"  view  from  Salmon  street 


4 
6 

18 

20 

448 

450 

454 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


Form  L9-42m-8,'49(B5573)444 


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